Styl'In Magazine

SHADES OF BEAUTY A multicultural celebration of the many hues of beauty and couture.

Trending : PASTELS

7 things you didn’t

knowabout TALYOR SWIFT WORN Fashion Journal Where Ideas Get Dresssed Diet Cheats to Stay Fit

The SPRING STYLE ISSUE

fashion choices out there. So market editor Caitlan Moneta has waded through the season’s many florals and put together looks divided by decade (“Full Bloom,” page 68). Shorts are also proving to be a trend, from saucy bloomers at Dolce & Gabbana to clean white “knee pants” at Chloé. In “Gam On” (page 50), Gabrielle Johnson reports it’s all about choosing a length and shape that are right for you.

Pulling yourself together for spring wouldn’t be complete without an arsenal of beauty weapons. We’ve got youth enhancers for every stage of life, from the new CCs (colour correctors) to spot-blasting laser treatments for hands. As Vancouver cosmetic dermatologist Dr. Shehla Ebrahim puts it in “Hand Brake” (page 98), “You never go to war with one gun.”

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Alexandra Shulman

I will never be perfect

This realization struck me on a recent vacation as I was thumbing through a Martha Stewart cookbook.

(There’s no one like Martha to make you feel inadequate, is there? She is even perfect at that.)

A Brazilian who moved to Montreal and converted from sleeveless and strings to Orthodox Judaism. An Ontario woman who dons different outfits for her parents, inlaws, husband and friends. Clearly summer, for some, is complicated…far beyond deciding whether your new sandals should be gladiators or platforms.

The other eye-opener in this issue is how much success Canadian designers have had selling swimwear.

In “Catch the Wave” (page 54), senior editor Sarah Casselman profiles five brands making a splash on the I am not sure where this feeling of self-acceptance international scene—led by Montreal’s Shan, which has suddenly bubbled up from, or why. But it has given me 125 employees and distribution in more than 25 a new outlook on dressing. I am much more sure that countries. We’ve also aimed to make your swimsuit my choices are right for me. And I am letting go of the shopping smoother with market editor Caitlan Monebelief that I should wear something because I should. ta’s roundup of the best new suits (“Bathing Beauties,” page 72) and our Focus guide to the country’s swimwear “Striving for perfection does seem like a form of retailers (page 174). self-hatred,” cover girl Isla Fisher tells features editor Elio Iannacci in “Feeling Jazzed” (page 146). Ironic, And don’t miss our two powerhouse fashion spreads. then, that her day with photographer Chris Nicholls “Central Air” (page 138) sets breezy dresses and vibrant in Los Angeles produced so many incredible shots, it prints against the diverse beauty of Nicaragua. And pained us to edit them down to just a handful.

“Lana Mania” (page 148) stars the compelling Lana Del “Striving for perfection does seem like a form of Rey, who endured a 4:30 a.m. wake-up call to start hair self-hatred,” cover girl Isla Fisher tells features editor and makeup for our 10-page story. Del Rey was a total Elio Iannacci in “Feeling Jazzed” (page 146). Ironic, pro, eating her lunch of spaghetti and chocolate milk then, that her day with photographer Chris Nicholls alongside our team, and hanging in till her interview in Los Angeles produced so many incredible shots, it with features editor Elio Iannacci wrapped at 6:30 p.m. pained us to edit them down to just a handful. doing things when I’m supposed to.”

What’s so admirable about Rocha, though, is how her

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commitment to her beliefs has not been swayed by phoWe don’t believe in age appropriateness either. Still, we tographers urging her to show more skin. have to find some way to help you navigate the many

The Scent A sexy contrast of red roses, ripe fruits, and a velvet cream accord, Modern Muse Le Rouge is for the woman who demands attention when she walks into a room. The sensual notes of Bulgarian rose and petally freshness of rose centifolia marry the burst of bourgeon de cassis and raspberry, blending into the vibrancy of pink pepper and saffron. Adding drama to your olfactory senses is Madagascar vanilla and musky ambrette, complete with delicate notes of magnolia flower and jasmine.

Modern Muse Le Rouge launches in October 2015 and costs Rs. 5,900 for a 50ml bottle.

Is that a slither of sunlight we spy poking through the cloud cover? It must be time to invest in a spangly new pair of sunglasses from the SS16 drop. We’ve got a handle on the latest face furniture trends and rounded up the very best styles from the high street to the catwalk so you can get set for what will no doubt be Britain’s hottest summer on record* with the coolest sunglasses out there. *Or, you know, the drizzliest.

So what’s hot in the world of sunglasses for 2016?

Cat eye shades are the shape of the season, with every luxury design house worth its salt plumping for a retro feline shape in at least one of its styles.

Choose an oversized acetate pair in a statement shade to channel Dolce & Gabbana’s vibe, or opt for an understated timeless black pair like those spotted at Bottega Veneta.

Dolce & Gabbana at Sunglass Hut, £231Dolce & Gabbana at Sunglass Hut, £231 One of the most delightful things I noticed at Lakmé Fashion Week this season was how designers had great fun with handloom fabrics.

Not long ago, handmade textiles were confined to forlorn (and pedantic) talks about revival and recovery, not unlike the act of reinvigorating dreary old men. This archaic approach had to change, especially in our world consumed by Instagram swag and Pinterest mood-swings. It was the urgency of the times for textiles to, desperately, embrace the newness of things—and they did.

Thanks to some of the coolest designers around, textiles have become the bastion of cool and everyone’s got to have Fun w/ Fabric (I am trademarking this)!

NorBlack NorWhite played with the original mood of rasta: Indian road plus Rastafarian, and their collection, called 100% PURE LOVE brought the edge of Kutch, Kerala and Andhra into contemporary settings. Their designs were unabashedly meant for the emotionally naked, comfortably unisexual and Trump-hating hipsters of our times.

The mood evoked by 11.11 eleven eleven, on the other hand, did not have the brouhaha of the big, bright and cray world of textiles; but it was certainly dignified in its quiet rebellion, with a studied approach showing that strength lay in being

pared down and academic.

And there was Payal Khandwala. Her wrap skirt in hand-woven silks and a silk organza overlay, worn with a modish neoprene top—is what these feisty and brazen hipsters will wear when they grow up. You can imagine when they take on roles that will change the world, they will probably be wearing Rahul Mishra’s delicate designs to offset their steely minds while they engineer policy change in gender equality and gay rights and everything in-between.

Sure, we can change the world. And we should be well dressed while doing it.

Dolce & Gabbana at Sunglass Hut, £231 Aviator detailing is another sunglasses trend that isn’t going anywhere, so invest in a classic mirror aviator that will see you through festival season and beyond, or choose a mix-and-match cat eye plus aviator combo (check out the Ray-Bans in our round-up).

Ray-Ban at Sunglass Hut, £144Ray-Ban at Sunglass Hut, £144

big record moguls are a whole different deal. We are talking about the hit series Empire, of course, and specifically, the endearingly nefarious Cookie Lyon, played by Taraji P Henson.

We take Cookie’s tough-love attitude and the rebirth of ’80s fashion for a stunning telling of the fashion of that time. High braids, animal prints, faux fur, leather and gold accents add to her larger-than-life persona. If you’re lucky enough to be somewhere where winter is still making its exit, layer up against the cool evening winds in a faux fur bomber. A light vintage cover-up is perfect for spring days; while if you’re in the middle of summer heat already, a jersey top with breezy cutout details on the side are perfect to bring down the temperature without compromising on your cool cred.

“The streets ain’t made for everybody, that’s why they made sidewalks,” says Lyon. Hear hear.

Ray-Ban at Sunglass Hut, £144 If mini, 60s Lennon specs are your bag you’re in luck; as this retro trend sticks a-round (sorry) for another sunny season. We’ve found beauties by Michael Kors and Free People in our sunglasses edit.

Michael Kors at Sunglass Hut, £142Michael Kors at Sunglass Hut, £142 Michael Kors at Sunglass Hut, £142 There’s nothing subtle about any of this season’s sunglasses, so our main advice is to go bold or go home when choosing your new season specs. We love Hook LDN’s chunky acetate frames for making a style statement, and there are some cute Linda Farrow-inspired heart-shaped frames by Floozie by Frost French for a snip at just £16 at Debenhams.

Go forth friends, shop for sunglasses and seek sun. Lots and lots of sun.

Movies and television centred around music are no rarity, but entire characters that come alive from tales of

The chief inspiration behind the prints are Japanese temari balls. Made using leftover fabric from kimonos bonded together with string, the temari were introduced in Japan from China in the 7th century AD and soon progressed from a child’s plaything to intricate works of art. “We’ve taken inspiration from the dizzying graphics of these temari balls and combined them with stripes and other geometric motifs. Keeping black, white and gold as a constant, each garment has a special colour highlight like emerald green, fuchsia, red and electric blue. Another prominent feature is the crown ornamentation placed across beautiful and delicate textures.

Watercoloured bases showcase splashes of pattern and motifs,” Arora elaborates.

Producer and creative consultant Shaana Levy-Bahl, who models the line for us, has a style aesthetic that spans Stella McCartney and custommade Kolhapuris. “No one’s going to look at me and go, ‘Oh, Shaana’s sporty,’” she laughs. Arora’s take on the classic white shirt, though—with strips of his trademark hearts—is something one can’t not love.

Comprising four prints across clothing, accessories and footwear, the central theme, according to the designer, is for the “bold, edgy, eccentric male to sport a unique creation governed by my design aesthetic that is otherwise generally seen on women.”

We live in times of blurring lines. In our wardrobes, especially, the difference between what’s his and hers flies out of the window a little bit everyday.

OLYA AFANASYEVA: FASHION, CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE Chanel Haute Couture cape, top, and pants, prices upon request, 800-550-0005.

SHADES OF BEAUTY A multicultural celebration of the many hues of beauty and couture.

By Carine Roitfeld and Photographs by: Richard Bush Mar 31,2016

YSAUNNY BRITO: BEAUTY, GIORGIO ARMANI Giorgio Armani Maestro Foundation, $64, sephora.com; Giorgio Armani Eyes to Kill Intense Eyeshadow in Gold Blitz, $34, nordstrom. com; Giorgio Armani Ecstasy Lacquer in Leather, $38, giorgioarmani. com

CAI LEE FASHION VALENTINO HAUTE COUTURE Valentino haute couture gown price on request.

ALÉCIA MORAIS: BEAUTY, DIOR Dior 5 Couleurs Eyeshadow Palette in Carré Bleu, $62, dior.com; Dior Addict Ultra Gloss in Paradise, $30, neimanmarcus.com; Dior Vernis Nail Lacquer in Bleuette, $27, bloomingdales.com.

LEILA GOLDKUHL: BEAUTY, YVES SAINT LAURENT Yves Saint Laurent Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils in High Density Black, $32, sephora.com; Yves Saint Laurent Gloss Volupté In Gold, $32, barneys.com; net-a-por ALÉCIA MORAIS: BEAUTY, DIOR Dior 5 Couleurs Eyeshadow Palette in Carré Bleu, $62, dior.com

LEILA GOLDKUHL: FASHION, GIAMBATTISTA VALLI Giambattista Valli Haute Couture gown and gloves, price upon request, Bergdorf Goodman, 888-774-2424.

OLYA AFANASYEVA: BEAUTY, CHANEL Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Foundation, $60, chanel. com; Chanel Rouge Allure Intense Long-Wear Lip Colour in Pirate, $37, chanel.com; Chanel Le Vernis Long-Wear Nail Colour in Pirate, $28, chanel.com.

CAI LEE: FASHION, ATELIER VERSACE Atelier Versace jacket, top, and pants, prices upon request, 011-39-02-7609-3238.

KRIS GOTTSCHALK: SCHIAPARELLI HAUTE COUTURE Schiaparelli Haute Couture gown and boots, prices upon request, 011-33-17621-6259.

HAYETT MCCARTHY: FASHION, ULYANA SERGEENKO HAUTE COUTURE Ulyana Sergeenko Haute Couture coat, price upon request, 011-7-985-764-0225.

YSAUNNY BRITO: FASHION, GIORGIO ARMANI PRIVÉ Giorgio Armani Privé jacket, price upon request, Bergdorf Goodman, 888-7742424.

Trend Shops: Pastels

Clockwise -Lime Crime Velvetine Liquid Lipstick, OCC Lip Tar, 3 Concept Eyes Lip Pigment, Too Faced Liquified Long Wear Lipstick.

T

here’s a funny dichotomy in he trending shades of nail colours for the summer of 2016.

On one hand they are elegant, grown-up, chic and very, very French colours.

On the other they’re also charmingly child-like, pulled out from various memories of carnivals and sweet treats. Whichever way you swing, pastel is in.

L to R - Laura Mercier Sweetheart Lip Glace, Yves Saint Laurent Rouge Volupté lipgloss in Nude Beige, Colourbar clear gloss, Dior Addict Gloss Jersey Rose & Revlon Peach Parfait.

Lips If you’re not comfortable making a big statement with your lip color, start sheer. Do says, “Play with lip gloss. Using pastels—whether it be corals, pinks, or tangerines—is kind of easy and forgiving if you want to start there.” If you do want to go all out with pastel lipstick (we’re fans of Lancome’s Rouge in Love Lipcolor in Miss Coquelicot or OCC’s plum-toned pink, Memento.), Do says, “put the bulk of the application in the middle of the lip and rub your lips together so you can see that it’s a vibrant color but not so precise that it’s really severe. It has a subtle punch about it.”

Cheeks Pinks and corals are always a safe bet for incorporating pastels into your makeup wardrobe. Both shades are flattering on a range of skin tones, particularly when you go with an option like stila’s custom color pink or coral. The color magically adjusts to fit your skin tone so you’re never going overthe-top. For the subtlest tint of pastel, use a light pink highlighter like Benefit’s High Beam across your cheekbones. It will catch the light and give your cheeks a girly glow.

Eyes Eye shadow is really where you can get creative with your pastels. Do recommends light washes of aquamarine, light violet, or coral. We like stila’s Wisteria, a dusty lavender, and Poppy, a pale blue. Or “stick to a neutral eye palette and add a bright violet liner. Soften it or make it as severe as you want depending how comfortable you are with makeup.” If you’re naturally pale, Do advises loading up on mascara to avoid looking washed out.

Nails Nails are the easiest way to experiment without making a big investment. Try the new Color Club Summer Pastel collection which has creamy shades like Clambake Coral and cool blue Factory Girl. They complement both patterns and neutrals.

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Things You Didn’t Know About Taylor Swift

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Taylor Swift was named after another singer-songwriter: James Taylor. The two singers actually ended up sharing the stage in 2011. (You haven’t heard “Fire and Rain” until you’ve heard it with T.Swift.) This year, Taylor gushed about the 25-year-old singer being named after him. “It’s hugely flattering and was a delightful surprise when she told me that,” Taylor said. “She told me that her mom and dad had been really, deeply into my music, and I got a real kick out of the fact that she’d been named after me. Obviously it wasn’t her choice, it was her mom and dad, but nonetheless, a great connection, I think.”

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Ever wondered what’s at the heart of Swift’s whole magical, cookie-baking, wide-eyed vision? It might have something to do with having grown up on a Christmas tree farm. “I had the most magical childhood, running free and going anywhere I wanted to in my head,” Swift told Rolling Stone. “It has cemented in me this unnatural level of excitement about fall and then the holiday season. My friends are so sick of me talking about autumn coming.

They’re like, ‘What are you, an elf?’ ” she once said. “We all had jobs. Mine was picking the praying mantis pods off of the trees, collecting them so that the bugs wouldn’t hatch inside people’s houses.”

This year, Swift’s mother presented her with the Academy of Country Music’s Milestone Award, and she spoke about the genesis of her daughter’s hit “Love Story.” “[When] she was 17 years old, her dad and I strongly disapproved of a certain young man—and rightfully so—but she was mad, she was real mad.

And she went to her room and she closed the door. And she came out about an hour later with a song called ‘Love Story.’ ” As it turns out, it took Swift a little less time than that to create that single. “Most of the time, songs that I write end up being finished in 30 minutes or less,” she told Time in 2009. “ ‘Love Story’ I wrote on my bedroom floor in about 20 minutes. When I get on a roll with something, it’s really hard for me to put it down unfinished.”

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Swift’s squeaky-clean image dates back to her high school days.

(She had a 4.0 GPA, of course.) But she also finished her junior and senior years of high school in one calendar year. “That was just the most practical way to do it,” Swift told Esquire in 2014.

“My parents were very strict about education and hard work, from the time my brother and I were really little kids.”

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Swift’s maternal grandmother was an opera singer and even hosted a television show in Puerto Rico. “She was always singing, either around the house, or every single Sunday she’d get up and sing in front of the entire congregation at church,” Swift once said. Her grandparents, who were married for more than half a century and died a week apart, also informed T.Swift’s fairy-tale idea of true love. “They were still madly in love with each other in their 80s.”

There are many regularly cited, fairly unbelievable facts about Taylor Swift: She single-handedly changed the music-streaming industry. She sent a fan $1,989 to help pay off her student loans and gave another fan the birthday gift of Chipotle. She has saved at least five human lives. Her latest magnanimous move was taking her 125-person crew on vacation ahead of the end of her world tour. And, as fate would have it, the 1989 (her birth year) tour wraps up the day before she turns 26. Ahead of T.Swift’s big day, let’s raise a Chipotle burrito to her squad-filled year. Here, five things you likely never knew about Taylor Swift.

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6

Fresh off her win for Best Music Video of the Year, Taylor Swift arrived at the 2016 Grammys red carpet with a new BFF on her arm (Selena Gomez) and an even newer haircut. The “Bad Blood” singer, who is up for seven golden gramophones including Record, Album, and Song of the Year, has ditched her shoulder-grazing blonde waves for a strict, chin-length bob with blunt bangs. The graphic cut couldn’t be more timely, with highly individualistic versions of the short cut on the Alexander Wang runway this weekend giving models a quick boost of Fashion Week confidence.

“What’s this all about, then?” My driver was just making small talk, but as the taxi stuttered along the road leading to the J.W.Anderson show, I found myself giving due consideration to his question. The “this” he was referring to was the phalanx of photographers surrounding the show venue, and the women in fashion-forward outfits stopping in the rain to pose for them. There were at least 50 photographers—maybe many more, as the crowd stretched outside my view.

They were choking up the road, that was for sure. We were stalled a good distance from the venue, and the rain was coming down hard, so I sat in the cab with the meter running and studied this by-now-familiar sight, the dance of the street style stars, affecting nonchalance as they walked past the flashing cameras, umbrellas aloft, and then turning around and sauntering back again, giving the paps another angle. It was a good question: What is “street style” all about, then?

For about as long as there have been readily attainable cameras, there have been photographers taking pictures of people on the street wearing clothes. When Edward Linley Sambourne, an illustrator for the magazine Punch, started shooting passersby near his London home in 1906, he wasn’t out to document the current fashions. But his plainspoken photos do bear witness to genteel Edward

ian style. And for about a century, that’s how “street style” photography worked: The impetus, first and foremost, was to capture the scene outside. Consider i-Dfounder Terry Jones, commissioning his “Straight Up” series of portraits of New Romantics and punks in 1977, or Bill Cunningham playing flaneur on his bicycle for The New York Times, or Amy Arbus taking snaps of the artsy young folk populating the early-’80s-era Lower East Side. These images are attended by an aura of surprise: Even when the subjects were posing, you don’t look at those photos and think, That person expected to have his or her picture taken that day. They were just going about their business, looking how they looked, and they happened upon a photographer along the way. When “street style” photography as we know it first got to be a thing, circa the debut of The Sartorialist and the launch of the “Look Book” feature in New Yorkmagazine, that aura of surprise was still present. It’s not anymore. There are too many cameras around for that to be the case. There are too many occasions, like fashion shows, where the cameras are unavoidable, and too many people who have made it their mission to be photographed.

An aura of performance now pertains.

Is this a good thing or a bad thing? I’m not sure.

What We Talk About, When We Talk About :

“Street Style” APRIL 11, 2016 by MAYA SINGER

What I do know is that this performative mode is a thing, one way or another—indeed, enough of a thing that it’s changed the nature of what we’re seeing. There’s no point pretending that a picture taken by Tommy Ton at Paris Fashion Week in 2016 is the same species of photograph as one of those Arbus shots, or even an image from the early days of the Sartorialist blog. The expectation that they will be shot makes the subjects engage with the camera on different terms. When someone like Elena Perminova or Caroline Issa goes to a fashion show, she’s not going about her business, looking the way she’dtypically look. The women who get snapped all the time—and the new wave who snap themselves for their Instagrams and Tumblrs and blogs—are models on assignment. They may have cast and styled themselves, but regardless, they’re editorializing a look, not inhabiting their everyday style. The addition of artifice is important to acknowledge, because it has consequences for fashion, as an industry, and ramifications for how we, as a a society, define “style.” There’s only so much real estate to go around in our dream life, which means that something else is getting squeezed out. Designers increasingly tune their creativity to what can be worn out and about, albeit in that performative, street style star way—hence the proliferation of runway looks with a lot of visual they merrily toss as soon as the next round image of all men and women seen around.

Punch out ery little sense of reality. When the aim is to get someone, or a few someones, to wear a look for a sum total of a couple densely photographed hours on one particular day, novelty winds up trumping craft and functionality. Consumers sate themselves on the images of these looks, and buy very little from stores.

(Or they snatch up the fast-fashion knockoff, which ound of images comes along.)

This emphasis on eye-grabbing faux practicality has also meant that other forms of design ambition are eschewed. Brands used to make their mark by appearing in magazine editorials—a medium for which the practicality of the clothes being photographed was never the point.

“Street style” photography affirms the idea that “style” is what you do when you know people are watching, as opposed to an ever-present way of looking that is for the purpose and pleasure of oneself. When we study images of style icons of old, we feel we’re seeing individuals caught in the habit of inhabiting the world in their own original way.

The original street style photographers searched out neighborhood locals who inhabited their world with notable flair. The good ones shooting today still make the effort to find those people. But “street style” transacts in a mode of style more knowing and camp.

The women I watched posing in the rain outside the J.W.Anderson show in February weren’t showing the world who they are; they were showing the world what they look like when they get photographed.