18 minute read
NEWS
Editor’snote
IN HONOUR OF NATIONAL WOMEN’S DAY on 9 August, this issue of SAJN celebrates females whose achievements are ensuring a more inclusive, gender-equal industry. It also provides an opportunity to acknowledge some of the specific challenges women face and think critically about ways in which these can be addressed.
In her book Girl, Wash Your Face (Thomas Nelson), Rachel Hollis writes: “Our words have power, but our actions shape our lives.” I thought about that statement a lot as I worked on this issue.
It has been a tough year-and-a-half, to say the least, yet women have continued to persevere, fight back and overcome some of the odds stacked against them. Representation of women in the gem and jewellery industry has advanced in recent years, but there is still a long way to go. Like many other spheres, it has largely been seen as a “man’s domain”. In this issue, we catch up with four female role models leading that agenda to understand whether things are changing and how jewellery businesses and institutions can accelerate that transformation. We also chat to five strikingly creative local jewellery designers who are putting SA on the global map through their uniquely inspired pieces and technical brilliance.
In addition, we feature Zimbaqua, Africa’s first mine with an all-female workforce which is empowering women in rural communities. It works closely with community leaders to provide education and healthcare to children, while creating employment and a better quality of life. “The mining sector is highly conservative and maledominated,” explained founding partner Iver Rosenkrantz. “Many women have been forced into illegal, artisanal mining in order to survive. This is a common problem in many poor parts of Africa. There are even stories of women disguising themselves as men, in order to avoid being harassed. Many of our employees are single mothers who’ve been struggling to feed and offer their children basic needs. We’re setting a new standard for mining and creating opportunities for women, ultimately uplifting and improving their living standards.”
We at SAJN want to recognise women of the past, the present and the future. We hail their achievements in breaking barriers for upcoming generations of confident, independent females. We also want to acknowledge the often voiceless, seemingly faceless, but crucial – and vastly underpaid – thousands of domestic helpers, nurses, cleaners, cooks, street sweepers, security guards and others who rise every day before dawn, prepare food for their families and then begin the long walk or journey to their workplaces, often returning well after dark to begin another round of labour preparing food, ironing, washing, as well as tending children and husbands. They bear their many hardships uncomplainingly and keep our world on its axis.
We seldom give these women a second glance. Yet each of them is a heroine with a spine of steel, an unwavering sense of duty, fierce courage, indefatigable commitment – and boundless love. We salute them.
And let us not forget our own mothers, sisters, daughters, aunts and friends, whose daily interactions with us keep us grounded and motivated.
Enjoy this issue! Adri Viviers
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BOTSWANA DIAMOND MINE SELLS FOR JUST US$50 000
After six years of attempting to sell its Botswana operation, Firestone Diamonds has announced that it has entered a binding share sales agreement. Botswana-owned Visionary Victor Resources will acquire the BK11 mine, as well as Firestone’s 90% interest in its local subsidiary, Monak Ventures, for US$50 000.
This agreement is Firestone’s third attempt at selling the Botswana business, which it valued at US$10,7 million at the end of 2014. It embarked on a sale to Tango Mining (now Southstone Minerals) in 2015 for US$8 million. That deal fell through a year later after several delays, as Tango failed to raise the necessary funding. In 2017, it offered the project to a joint venture comprising ex-De Beers CEO Gareth Penny and manufacturer the Diacore Diamond Group for US$5,1 million. After a year-long delay, negotiations collapsed at the end of 2018, when Penny and Diacore declined the option to purchase.
Firestone also owns the Liqhobong mine in Lesotho, in which it has a 75% stake, with the government of Lesotho owning the remaining 25%. The company decided to put operations in Lesotho on hold in March 2020 when diamond demand collapsed due to the COVID-19 pandemic. It is currently in talks with lenders to restructure its debt, as it intends to resume operations by the end of the year.
ALROSA LAUNCHES TRACKING METHOD FOR DIAMONDS
Alrosa has introduced a provenance programme that allows customers to trace diamonds back to their origin using nanotechnology.
The Russian miner will place a permanent, non-invasive laser marking on rough and polished stones, which participants can “read” using a special scanning machine that Alrosa will provide. This will enable people along the supply chain to identify the goods as natural diamonds from Alrosa and will allow them to retrieve detailed information on the stones’ history.
This is the first time anyone has used technology of this kind to trace diamonds for commercial purposes, Alrosa claims. The company has started patent application processes in key diamond trading centres, including the USA, China, Hong Kong, Belgium and India.
“With access to the full cycle of manufacturing, we have all the necessary information about our polished diamonds and the rough diamonds from which they were cut,” says Alrosa CEO Sergey Ivanov. “The laser nanomark technology we’ve created allows these guarantees to be extended to the diamonds sold by our partners.”
The technology is currently available to business-to-business clients. Alrosa plans to expand it to retail at a later stage.
The mark is a “three-dimensional code” that links to Alrosa’s provenance platform, offering a digital passport with details on the diamond’s origin and characteristics, along with a unique identification number, a photo and video, as well as information on how it was cut, says the company.
The miner could consider including more precise origin information if there is a demand for it, says a spokesperson. Participants can also add personalised information, such as the identity of the jeweller. Scanning the code takes less than a minute.
The miner’s method is “100% accurate” and makes an inscription further from the surface of the stone than do other technologies, it adds. The nanomark goes inside the crystal lattice, across the diamond’s atomic structure, making it invisible without a scanner.
Alrosa developed the technology with the help of scientists from the Russian Academy of Sciences, as well as the miner’s Research Geological Enterprise and the Yakutniproalmaz Institute.
Consumer surveys in the USA and China indicate that traceability is an important factor for purchasers of diamonds. – Rapaport
Rolex is introducing its new-generation Oyster Perpetual Explorer II. This technical watch, in Oystersteel, was created for the boldest explorers and now features a redesigned case and bracelet. This update brings enhanced visual balance and harmony to the timepiece, while remaining true to its aesthetic heritage.
The Oyster Perpetual Explorer II in Oystersteel with an Oyster bracelet features a white dial with an arrow-shaped 24-hour hand and hour-markers characterised by a highly legible Chroma light display with long-lasting blue luminescence.
Rolex uses Oystersteel for its steel watch cases. Specially developed by the brand, it belongs to the 904L steel family, alloys most commonly used in high technology and in the aerospace and chemical industries, where maximum resistance to corrosion is essential. Oystersteel is extremely resistant, offers an exceptional finish once polished and maintains its beauty even in the harshest environments. The Explorer II features a date display and an additional orange 24-hour hand. It became the watch of choice for speleologists, volcanologists and polar explorers.
In the additional 24-hour display, a dedicated hand circles the dial in 24 hours, rather than the usual 12, pointing to a fixed bezel with 24-hour gradations. This function enables the wearer to distinguish the hours of the day from those of the night – an essential feature for those who venture into environments where darkness reigns supreme (such as in caves), or where the sun never sets (like the polar regions in summer). Its highly legible dial, extremely resistant Oystersteel and waterproofness have made it the watch for extremes.
The Oyster bracelet is a perfect alchemy of form and function, aesthetics and technology, designed to be both robust and comfortable. It is equipped with an Oysterlock folding clasp which prevents accidental opening and an Easylink extension link, also exclusive to Rolex. This ingenious system allows the wearer to increase the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm, providing additional comfort in any circumstances.
