Discover vol 1, 2013 by Islands Business

DISCOVER FIJI

Pick up your FREE Vodafone SIM @ Nadi Airport With touch points all over Fiji, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got you covered

www.vodafone.com.fj

Useful Information At Nadi Airport CURRENCY EXCHANGE

Banks in the Arrivals Concourse are open for all flights. There are more currency exchange options in Nadi Town while most large resorts will accept foreign currencies and credit cards.

COMMUNICATIONS

TRAVEL TIP

MOBILE Fiji has two mobile communications providers - Digicel and Vodafone - with the latter having an outlet at the Arrivals Concourse. INTERNET Wireless hotspots and internet kiosks are available throughout Nadi International Airport. Access is via credit cards or internet cards sold through a number of airport outlets.

TRANSPORT

Nadi International Airport is 6 kilometres (approx. 4 miles) from Nadi Town and 11 kilometres (approx. 7 miles) from Denarau Island. Nausori Airport is 16 kilometres (approx. 10 miles) from the capital Suva. RESORT TRANSFERS Prebooked shuttles to resorts leave from outside the Arrivals Concourse. TAXIS Yellow Airport Taxis are located to the right of the Arrivals Concourse. Flag fall or starting rate for any journey out of Nadi International Airport is FJ$5 and it is mandatory for taxi meters to be utilised on all journeys. CAR RENTALS A bona-fide tourist in Fiji may drive if in possession of a valid home country driving licence for the same class of vehicle. The maximum speed limit in built-up areas is 50km/h (30mph) and 80km/h (50mph) on highways. Driving is on the left side of the road. Rental car companies are located past the Arrivals Concourse. PUBLIC BUSES Coral Sun’s airconditioned tourist coaches depart Nadi International Airport twice daily for Suva at 7.30am and 1pm, making designated stops at major towns and resorts along the way. Pacific Transport and Sunbeam Buses also depart from the airport, making stops at major towns and cities.

DISCOVER FIJI

ange It ’s best to ch currency your foreign cal mobile and grab a lo arrivals e th at rd SIM ca fore concourse, be to you proceed the domestic terminal.

General Fiji Information ABOUT FIJI

330 islands scattered across 20,000 square miles or 32,000 square kilometres of land, the Fiji Islands lie on the 180 Meridian where the dawning of each new day occurs. Viti Levu is Fiji’s biggest island and is often referred to as the mainland. Suva is the capital of Fiji and is a 30-minute drive from Nausori Airport, located on the eastern side of Viti Levu. Nadi, which is located on the western side of Viti Levu, is considered Fiji’s tourism hub and is home to Nadi International Airport, Fiji’s main global gateway.

CLIMATE

Fiji enjoys a mild tropical climate averaging 31°C (88ºF) during the summer months of November to April and 29°C (84ºF) during the winter months of May to October.

TIME ZONE

GMT + 12; Sydney + 2 hrs; Hong Kong + 4 hrs; New York + 16 hrs; Los Angeles + 19 hrs

CURRENCY

Fiji Dollar - FJD Banks - ANZ, Bank of Baroda, Bred Bank, Bank South Pacific and Westpac.

PASSPORT & VISA REQUIREMENTS

Passports must be valid for at least six months beyond the intended period of stay in Fiji and a return or onward travel ticket is required. Entry visas are granted on arrival for visitors for a stay of up to four months.

TIPPING

Tipping is not encouraged in Fiji and is left to the individual to determine whether to make a gratuity.

LANGUAGE

English is the official language, however indigenous Fijians also speak Fijian while IndoFijians speak Hindustani. Here are some Fijian words to get you started: Bula Hello Bula vinaka A warm hello Ni sa moce (ni sa mothey) Goodbye Vinaka Thank you Kerekere Please Mai kana Come and eat

ACCOMMODATION

Fiji accommodation options are broad with everything from backpacker accommodation through to five-star luxury and beyond.

ELECTRICITY

The electrical current in Fiji is 240 volts AC/50 cycles. Fiji has three-pin power outlets identical to Australia and New Zealand. Leading hotels and resorts offer universal outlets for 240v or 110v shavers.

HEALTH

Yellow Fever and Cholera vaccinations are only required if coming from an infected area as designated by the World Health Organisation. Hospitals are located in the major centres and there are health centres in rural areas. Hotels and resorts usually have a qualified nurse on the premises and a doctor on call. Water is safe to drink from the tap at hotels.

Airline News

Fiji Airways’ Cultural Renaissance

In June, Fiji’s national carrier Air Pacific reverted to Fiji Airways, its original name from 60 years ago. And along with the new name comes three brand new Airbus A330 aircraft from Toulouse, France, as well as a brand new look and feel. At

the heart of the airline’s new identity are the masi kesa patterns developed by Fijian artist Makereta Matemosi, based on traditional designs found widely throughout the Fiji islands. These patterns are hand-painted or stencilled onto raw

Air Vanuatu’s New Fiji Connection Port Vila just got closer to Nadi and Suva with the recent launch of Air Vanuatu’s new connections to Fiji. The airline operates direct flights (Port Vila/Nadi, Nadi/Port Vila) every Thursday and (Port Vila/ Suva, Suva/Port Vila) each Sunday. What’s more? Passengers enjoy a light meal and bar service plus a generous luggage allowance of 30kg each way. airvanuatu.com

Air Niugini’s New Bali Connection

Now there’s another way to connect to Bali from Fiji - that is via Air Niugini. In early August, Papua New Guinea’s national airline launched a direct, once-a-week service from its home base Port Moresby to Denpasar, the capital of Bali. This means travellers can now connect seamlessly from other Air Niugini destinations such as Fiji to the tourism hotspot in Indonesia. airniugini.com.pg

Discover the Solomon Islands

The Happy Isles got that much closer with four flights a week from Nadi to Honiara, the capital of the Solomon Islands. National carrier Solomon Airlines using its own Airbus, departs Nadi on Sunday and flies to Honiara via Port Vila. It also codeshares with Air Niugini on Saturdays and Mondays, and with Fiji Airways on Tuesdays which also goes via Port Vila. flysolomons.com

bark cloth made from the mulberry tree, using natural dyes and inks. The intrinsically Fijian motifs appear in the airline’s new logo and also on the interior and exterior of the new aircraft, making Fiji Airways the perfect Fijian ambassador to the world. fijiairways.com

Connecting Fiji to the world Air Calin aircalin.com Tel: +679 672 2145 Air New Zealand airnewzealand.com Tel: +679 672 2955 Air Niugini airniugini.com.pg Tel: +679 331 7870 Air Vanuatu airvanuatu.com Tel: 672 2777 Fiji Airways fijiairways.com Tel: +679 672 2272 Jetstar Airways jetstar.com Korean Air koreanair.com Tel: +679 672 7775 Our Airline ourairline.com.au Qantas qantas.com.au Tel: +679 672 2777 Solomon Airlines flysolomons.com Tel: +679 672 2831 Virgin Australia virginaustralia.com Tel: +679 992 0733 DISCOVER FIJI

What’s Inside Discover

Discover

Nadi is the main port of entry (and exit) for most travellers to Fiji, earning it the nickname ‘The Jet Set Town’.

Denarau Island is the South Pacific’s largest integrated resort, home to some of the world’s leading hotel brands.

Discover

The Mamanuca (pronounced Ma-manootha) island group, is a collection of 20 sand-fringed islands set among deep blue waters.

The Yasawa group is made up of some 20 islands of volcanic origin, north west of Viti Levu.

Nadi

Fiji’s jet set town

MamanucaS

Magical Mamanucas

Yasawas

Untouched beauty

Discover

The Coral Coast was one of the first tourism areas to be developed in Fiji.

Situated on the east coast of Fiji’s main island Viti Levu, Pacific Harbour is a veritable mecca for active travellers.

Discover

Fiji’s east is home to its capital Suva, as well as its first capital Levuka, Fiji’s World Heritage site on Ovalau Island.

The northern islands of Vanua Levu (Big Island) and Taveuni (Garden Island) are known for their leisurely pace of life.

Island feel on the mainland

the East

A mix of old and new

DISCOVER FIJI

A destination unto itself

Discover

The Coral Coast

Denarau

Pacific Harbour

Fiji’s adventure capital

the North

The laid-back isles

Regular Features Useful Information

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Airline News What’s Inside Welcome

On the Cover

Fijian style line dancing, known as the taralala, is used as a fun way to break the ice at villages and resorts throughout the Fiji Islands. Photo: WESTIN FIJI

WHAT’S ON

Your diary of events

WHAT’S NEW

Hottest, newest, latest

SAY WHAT?

Traveller stories and experiences

EATS

Sofitel Fiji’s fine dining at Restaurant V

Publisher & Managing Director Godfrey Scoullar

Group Editor-in-Chief Laisa Taga Advertising & Marketing Manager Sharron Stretton

Editorial Consultant Rajan Sami

Contributors Andy Phillips Claire Fordham Hilary Billings Ian Neubauer Jan Mallis Lance Seeto Shane Wasik Susan Hogan

Fashion & skincare inspired by the Pacific Aerial adventures with Skydive Fiji

RECIPE

Fijian Kokoda

Bula! Welcome to Fiji If your aim is relaxation, then you’ve chosen well. There’s a reason why we Fijians are consistently voted amongst the world’s happiest and also friendliest people. It’s called pace of life. You will find a gentle, unhurried approach to your days here, so take the time and smell the roses or rather the frangipanis. It helps that we’ve been blessed with beautiful islands and beaches - and lots of warm, sunny days. And there’s more. Our melting pot of cultures makes us truly unique in the Pacific, so spend a little time getting to know us, and your Fijian holiday will be all the more rewarding for it. As you go about discovering (and possibly rediscovering Fiji), we hope this first edition of discover Fiji becomes your trusted travel companion to our 333 islands.

The magazine features information on What to do, Where to go, What to eat and Where to shop, as well as comprehensive Area Guides and Travel Features. Finally, a note on who we are. discover Fiji is published by Islands Business International, a Suvabased publisher with over 30 years of regional publishing experience, which includes the flagship news and business magazine Islands Business, as well as inflight publications for a number of regional airlines. We hope you will thoroughly enjoy your stay.

It is a bi-monthly visitor magazine for the Fiji Islands published by Islands Business International.

SHOP

MOVE

Volume 1, 2013

Design Stanley Prasad Dick Lee Virendra Prasad Islands Business International P O Box 12718, Suva, Fiji Islands Tel: +679 330 3108, Fax: +679 330 1423 Editorial correspondence to: Discover Fiji P O Box 12718, Suva, Fiji Islands Tel: +679 330 3108 Fax: +679 330 1423 Email: editor@ibi.com.fj Printing Star Printery 60 Carpenters Street, Raiwai, Suva, Fiji Islands Unsolicited photographs are submitted at the sender’s risk. While all care will be taken, the publisher will not accept responsibility for accidental loss or damage. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Statements, opinions and points of view expressed by the writers are their own and do not necessarily represent those of the publisher. Information contained in this publication may be correct only at the time it was originally obtained by the writers and may be subject to change at any time and without notice.

Godfrey Scoullar Publisher

©‘13

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What’s On OCT 8 - 21

NATIONAL ART SHOW The National Arts Exhibition at the Sofitel Fiji Resort & Spa on Denarau Island gives visitors to Fiji the rare chance to take in indigenous art and craft, such as barkcloth paintings and clay pottery, which are showcased alongside contemporary paintings, sculpture and the like. +679 331 1754

OCT 20, NOV 17

MONTHLY MARKET Held in Suva on the third Sunday of every month, the Republic of Cappuccino or RoC Market is getting bigger and better every year. It features a vast array of vendors selling everything from delicious home-made jams, cakes and pickles to beautiful hand-made jewellery and wonderful local art including the highly sought-after traditional Fijian art on masi.

OCT 19 - NOV 30

CRUISE TO SERENITY Captain Cook Cruises Fiji partners with Shaolin Temple Europe, so passengers can nourish their body and soul whilst cruising the beautiful islands of Fiji on all 3, 4 and 7-night cruises departing between 19 October to 30 November 2013. Shaolin Temple Europe is a martial arts school and centre for the study of Shaolin culture. A monk from the temple will teach introductory classes in Kung Fu, Meditation, Tai Chi and Qi Gong on board the MV Reef Endeavour whilst the regular cruise itinerary includes village and school visits, handicraft markets, swimming, snorkelling, diving and immersive cultural experiences. captaincook.com.fj WEEKENDS

OCT 26 - 27

GAME FISHING TOURNEY A two-day game fishing tournament at Nadi’s Port Denarau, the Bill Williams Memorial is the major marlin competition for the year as the warmer currents start to move down from the equator and along with it comes huge numbers of mahimahi. The event is organised by the Denarau Game & Sport Fishing Club, a small family-oriented club with categories for men, women and children. It holds 10 competitions a year with the major event being The Classic in July, which attracts international anglers and local clubs alike. +679. 999 2051 dgsfcfiji.com

HIGH TEA IN THE TROPICS Experience high tea at Sofitel Fiji’s La Parisienne café from 3pm to 6pm every Friday to Sunday, where a range of delicate French cakes and pastries, finger sandwiches and coffee or tea are on offer. An absolute ‘must-do’ for all who visit Denarau Island, the high tea menu is under the artful guidance of new executive chef Jean-Marc Ruzzene and pastry chef Muni Krishna, who have infused this timeless classic with contemporary flair. F$32 pp, F$39 with glass of bubbly. +679. 675 1111 sofitelfiji.com.fj

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NOV 14 - 16

RUGBY SEVENS TOURNEY What better place to watch sevens rugby than in Fiji, where the sport is a national passion. Catch men and women’s teams from American Samoa, Australia, Fiji, New Zealand and the United States at the Bayleys Fiji Coral Coast Rugby 7s Tournament at Sigatoka’s Lawaqa Park in mid-November. sevenspassion.com

What’s New Port Denarau Marina’s latest addition, The Fun Factory, offers an exciting array of activities for children ages 2 to 13. Some of the facility’s popular elements include the ball pit and slide, trampoline, tunnels and a climbing wall, as well as a special toddler area. Says founder Kristy Bavister: “We felt that there was a gap in the market for high quality kid-based activities. As a mother myself, I wanted to create a place that was safe, air-conditioned, educational and where equal amounts of both visiting children and locals could mingle in a positive atmosphere.” The factory’s crèche sessions allow parents to have quality time of their own. Adds Kristy: “They can shop, get pampered at a spa, golf, experience some romantic time alone or do whatever they want while we watch the kids having a blast. It’s a win/win for the family.” Opens 9am to 9pm daily. Tel: +679 6750192 | funfactoryfiji.com

Fun Factory Fijian-Asian Fusion Popular Aussie chef Lance Seeto has been busy of late. In March, he launched the world’s first Fijian-Asian restaurant on Castaway Island. Called Restaurant 1808 after the year the Chinese first arrived in Fiji, its menu combines organic and non-genetically modified foods with distinct Asian flavours. Using mainly virgin coconut oil in his cooking, Seeto aims to show the world a more healthy and allergy-free way to eat, based on the traditional primal diet of ancient Fijians, which he captures brilliantly in Coconut Bliss, a memoircum cookbook due out in October. castawayfiji.com | fijianfoodsafari.com

Tacos, Anyone? The culinary offerings at Mamacita - Denarau Island’s first (and for-the-moment Fiji’s only) Mexican restaurant at the WorldMark by Wyndham falls somewhere between Tex-Mex and authentic Mexican cuisine. Restaurant manager Akosita Tuitoga’s must-try dishes include the Macho Nachos (Chilli Con Carne made with braised beef); the Chilli Con Queso or ‘CCQ’ as she calls it (a spicy cheese dip served with corn chips); and the Flaming Fijian Fajitas (tortillas and grilled meats served on a hot iron skillet). If a liquid lunch (or dinner) is more your thing, rest assured Mamacita offers seven types of margaritas and 40 tequila varieties. If you’re a Mamacita fan and you’re in Suva, don’t worry, there are plans to open one in the capital city when Damodar City in Laucala Bay opens soon. Opens daily from 8am till late. Tel: +679 6750722

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Say What?

Traveller Stories & Experiences

Fiji on a Shoestring American travel blogger Hilary Billings spent eleven days touring Fiji on a tiny US$500 budget but that didn’t keep her from having the experience of a lifetime. Here, she shares her highlights. 1. Best Accommodation: The Beachhouse, Coral Coast I knew I wasn’t going to be staying at five-star luxury resorts on my budget, but for US$20/FJ$18 a night, I definitely felt pampered. This beachfront hostel provided clean rooms, Continental breakfast, lunchtime scones and tea, and tons of free activities. I took advantage of their pristine views, free kayaking and coconut jewellery making classes, and went snorkelling out on the reef. 2. BEST DAY TRIP: Colo-i-Suva Rainforest, Suva A day’s excursion hiking the trailheads only cost US$2/FJ$4. I spent hours wandering the trails, swimming the pools, jumping off waterfalls and swinging from ropes. I left my excursion at sunset covered in mud with my inner Tarzan satisfied.

3. BEST LOCAL EXPERIENCE: Taking Local Transportation, Sigatoka What I love most about travel is exploring the local lifestyle. Taking the bus from Suva to Sigatoka gave me that opportunity. For less than one American dollar, I had an authentic Fijian experience that I will never forget. 4. BEST SPLURGE: Horseback Riding, Coral Coast I spent US$13/FJ$20 to go horseback riding. We galloped out at low tide, right as the sun was setting, with my hair whipping behind me. Who wouldn’t love that?

Follow Hilary’s adventures:

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We’d love to hear about your Fiji experience. Send your pictures and stories to editor@ibi.com.fj

PHOTOS: HILARY BILLINGS

nomadgrad.com | facebook.com/thenomadgrad

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Now Selling

Shop Tropical Beauty Fiji’s first luxury designs hit our shores with designer Samantha Farrugia’s debut ‘Hidden Paradise Collection’. Inspired by her beloved island home, Savusavu, on the large northern island Vanua Levu (and which is also known as the ‘Hidden Paradise’), her stunning, ethereal pieces include long and short kaftans and dresses made from 100% silk. More P13

We smell a beautiful tren brewing: fash d ion, beauty and skincare insp ired by the Fiji Islands

PHOTOS: Samantha Farrugia (Designs)

THE DEETS Shop the collection exclusively at Pineapple Boutique, Port Denarau, Nadi. Tel: +679 9994194 samanthafarrugia.com.au

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Designed in Fiji Fijian-Australian artist/designer Samantha uses silk as her canvas for expression and each of her designs captures the beauty of Fiji’s islands, from the colourful coral reefs and glassy aqua lagoons to tropical gardens and black volcanic beaches. Samantha has also introduced the traditional ‘tapa’ flower element in one of her pieces, inspired by Vatulele Island’s tapa artists, who make stenciled artworks on handmade bark cloth from the paper mulberry tree. The new luxury brand is based on ‘a lifestyle of being’ which is derived from the concept of conscious living, where women are essentially free to just ‘be’, says the designer, who plans to release limited edition designs once a year. The designs are not mass produced and signature pieces have been created from a fine selection of silk, are free size, hand designed and exclusive to her. Samantha comes from a long Fijian heritage of European and Fijian descent, and regularly visits her mother and family in Savusavu, Vanua Levu. Her

mother, Annette White originally from Korotogo, Viti Levu, was dubbed Fiji’s first fashion designer by the Australian press. Having studied and worked in Sydney Australia, her couture designs were often featured in Vogue, Belle, Flair, and Dolly magazines during the 1960s and 1970s. Says Samantha: “My mother’s work has always been an inspiration to me, she has always conveyed such excellence in her designs and I look to follow this same path.” On return trips to Savusavu, she spends her time creating and is proud to say her hand-rendered pieces are ‘designed in Fiji’.

Tempt the Senses

Samantha Farrugia.

THE DEETS Available at Pineapple Boutique, Lulu Café & Bar, Port Denarau; and Taste Kitchen, Martintar. pacificsenses.com

New to the scene, Pacific Senses makes handcrafted luxury soaps that smell good enough to eat. Coconut, palm and olive oils serve as a base for the new line, to which coco, shea butter and avocado oil is added for their skin-moisturising properties. Add local ingredients like ginger, vanilla and chocolate from Savusavu to that already potent mix and you get bars like Don’t Bite Me with lemongrass essential oil to ward off pesky bugs.

GORGEOUS GUAVA Home-grown beauty and skincare brand Pure Fiji has added a lush, new scent to its signature line of bestselling tropical body and bath products. The heady, intoxicating scent of guava not only smells great but it does good too. A superfood, guava is high in Vitamin C, an ingredient that boosts collagen production for youthful-looking skin. What’s more? Pure Fiji’s signature line (which includes other fruit and floral scents such as coconut, mango and passionflower) harnesses the oils of two potent coastal dwelling trees, dilo and beach almond, which have long been used in South Pacific beauty rituals.

THE DEETS To purchase, visit Prouds Duty Free Stores Fiji wide. purefiji.com

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Casual

Elegance

THE DEETS To purchase, visit the J. Hunter Pearls showroom in Savusavu Town or Prouds Duty Free Stores nationwide. pearlsfiji.com

The indelible beauty of Fiji is the inspiration behind Savusavu-based J. Hunter Pearls’ stunning new collection. The unparalleled hues that have made the brand world famous take their cue from the country’s rich natural heritage, from the cool greens and blues that evoke the aquamarine waters in which the pearls are carefully grown to the warm champagne, copper and gold tones reminiscent of tropical sunsets. “The choice of materials for the new line is influenced by the traditional Fijian way of life where weaving with sun-dried leaves and marsh reed is still everyday practice,” says founder Justin Hunter. “We’ve used organic leather and raw cord to string and bind our pearls. These natural materials get better with age, exuding rustic charm with every wear.” The knotting and tying in each ring, bracelet and necklace hint at the interconnectedness of life in Fiji, where many people still live in communal villages. “At J. Hunter Pearls, we are proud of our work with rural communities who carry out important components of pearl production and reap the rewards,” says Hunter. “We wanted to convey a relaxed island vibe in the new collection and do away with the fussiness usually associated with pearls while retaining their natural elegance.”

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PACIFIC

Chic

Coral Coast-based artist Robert Kennedy is the design mastermind behind Fiji Market, a resortwear brand from leading Fijian department store chain Tappoo. For his latest collection of “kaftans, dresses and sarongs for every shape and age”, the designer looked to the golden age of travel in the Pacific, taking inspiration from the Grand Pacific Hotel in Suva, which received illustrious guests like Queen Elizabeth II in its heyday. After lying idle for more than two decades, the historic hotel is being overhauled to reopen next year. Meanwhile, Phillipa Steele, the model in these photographs, has made history in her own right as the first Fijian to be signed by Donald Trump’s modelling agency in New York.

THE DEETS Available at Tappoo’s flagship stores in Nadi, Sigatoka and Suva, as well as at its resort outlets at Sofitel, Westin, Novotel, Warwick, Sheraton, Shangri-La’s Fijian and at Nadi International Airport. tappoo.com.fj DISCOVER FIJI

Move

On Land / In The Air / ON THE Water / Under Water

Aerial Adventures

g Landin la ma la a M on Island

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If you’re seeking an aerial adventure with adrenalin, look no further than Skydive Fiji. Ranked #1 on TripAdvisor’s list of things to do in Nadi, it’s the long-running sister company to the recently launched Heli-Tours Fiji. Since 2004, Skydive Fiji has been offering novices the opportunity to experience freefall tandem skydiving over beautiful Fijian islands and reefs before landing primarily on one of the resort beaches on Denarau Island. Says Madison Thompson from Calgary, Canada, on TripAdvisor: “Skydiving was one of the highlights of my trip! The plane ride itself is worth it, the view so breathtaking you almost forget your fears of jumping out of a plane. Video and pictures are a must!” Fiji’s warm, tropical climate also offers a comparative advantage, he adds.

Jumping out of a plane “This was the second skydive I had done, but the first time was in Canada over fields and it was very cold on the way down. A completely different experience but Fiji is definitely the place to do it! And the staff are incredibly professional and friendly. Really, a must-do!” Some of the more interesting skydives have included grooms who have surprised their brides by skydiving to beachfront altars and CEOs who have ‘dropped in’ to join their staff on Fijian island retreats, says the company’s Australian founder Tim Joyce, whose 80-year old mother recently took the plunge with her son. Skydive Fiji has seen its fair share of celebrities including hotel heiress Paris Hilton, who dived with a tiara on, and pro surfer Andy Irons.

Safety paramount The company operates in accordance with the Australian Parachute Federation’s operational regulations and employs qualified instructors. Says Tim, who set up Skydive Fiji in Nadi after considerable experience in Australia and the Pacific region as both a helicopter pilot and licensed skydiver: “We have put together a highly experienced group of skydiving instructors and pilots and also employ a number of local staff including ground co-ordinators, safety officers and office administrators.” Another satisfied customer on TripAdvisor, Fraser M from New South

Wales, Australia, says the following on the popular travel site: “Skydived with my two teenage daughters and went to some lengths to check out if Skydive Fiji was safe to dive with. The instructors and staff were professional and the equipment in good order.” He too, like other customers thought that Fiji’s warm climate and the views made for a great experience, adding: “After seeing photos of my friends skydiving elsewhere in the world having to put on overalls and gloves due to the cold, it was a real pleasure just jumping out of a plane in a pair of shorts and T-shirt and not be cold. Great location to skydive with the view and Skydive Fiji. Would not hesitate to sky dive with them again.”

THE DEETS Jumps start from 8,000 feet (Minimum, F$495 per person) and go as high as 14,000 feet (Legend, F$735 per person). Freefall time starts at 15 seconds at 8,000 feet and goes up to 60 seconds at 14,000 feet. Almost anyone can skydive, however, parental consent is needed for those under 18 years of age while conditions and surcharge may apply for those over 95kg. Tel: +679. 6728166 skydivefiji.com.fj

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Fiji from the sky Despite seeing helicopters take off countless times in the movies (admittedly many of them war flicks), I’m still pleasantly surprised by the obvious (like the absence of a runway) on my very first heli ride in Fiji. And I’m more than grateful that we’re as far as possible from a war zone: my 25-minute scenic ride with Heli-Tours Fiji takes off from a sedate back-road hangar in Nadi, flying past tourism hotspot Denarau Island and over the beautiful Mamanuca archipelago. As a Pacific-based lifestyle journalist, I’ve covered these parts numerous times over the years but only by land and sea. Seeing it in all its glory from the air gives me a fresh perspective and a newfound appreciation of the lush beauty of the Fiji Islands as well as the pristine coral reefs and inviting blue waters that the country is famous for. As we fly over island resorts, I can see people parasailing, kayaking, snorkelling and swimming in the Pacific blue. From the air, they resemble little toy figurines, calling to mind the tiny people made from icing on swimming pool cakes from my childhood.

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In just under half an hour, we’ve covered considerable ground. We’ve gotten a birds-eye view of Denarau Island’s five-star hotel chains like Sheraton, Sofitel, Hilton and so on as well as the larger, popular Mamanuca islands like Malolo Lailai (home to four resorts and a bustling marina). From the air, we’ve also seen several gorgeous little islands with luxury boutique resorts such as Waidigi (which

hotel heiress Paris Hilton put on the map) as well as those that are completely uninhabited and untouched. As we fly, my Kiwi pilot Tyson Bramwell shares interesting tidbits about the area – pointing out islands for sale, the site of the 2000 Tom Hanks movie Cast Away and an extinct underwater volcanic crater. It is easy to see why couples are increasingly choosing to do this as a fun, romantic excursion on their Fiji holiday. Flying on the Robinson R-44, an adorable four-seater helicopter, is akin to floating in a bubble (and remarkably different from peering out of your tiny aircraft window on commercial planes).

THE DEETS Prices per person range from FJ$190/AU$90 for the 10-minute Fiji Islands Taster to FJ$988/AU$530 for the 55-minute Fiji Islands indulgence. Tel: +679. 6750255 helitoursfiji.com

It takes up to three passengers - one in front and two in the back - with open plan seating and large windows that provide unobstructed views for everyone. In addition to the Robinson R-44, Heli-Tours Fiji has a twinengine helicopter, the AS355 ‘Twin

Squirrel’, which can carry up to six passengers. The company offers 10, 25, 40 and 55-minute scenic-flight tours. The longer tours fly over the mysterious Evans Mountain Range, offering views of dramatic gorges, pinnacles and seasonal cascades. – Rajan Sami

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Eats

Immerse Yourself

Fiji’s colourful, bustling markets are a great way to go local. See and sample the variety of fresh tropical produce on offer. You’ll find municipal markets in nearly every major town and city.

+Drinks

Brendon Coffey, the former executive chef at Sofitel Fiji Resort and Spa (pictured here with a market vendor in Nadi), was instrumental in introducing fresh, local ingredients to the resort’s culinary offerings. At Restaurant V, Sofitel Fiji’s signature fine dining restaurant, Coffey and his team assembled an international menu that showcased innovative Pacificinspired food with a touch of French flair.

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Photo: Sofitel Fiji

Local Flavours

French Flair Rajan Sami discovers French-Fijian fusion cuisine at Sofitel Fiji’s V Restaurant.

Grilled tuna with lolo (fresh coconut milk).

Miti is Fijian for raw coconut milk (the cooked stuff is lolo). Ota is fiddle fern and has a wonderful, crunchy texture; its flavour draws comparisons to both broccoli and spinach. Both ingredients feature prominently in indigenous cuisine. Another dish, the Rosella Arancini (F$38, AU$20), artfully combines local South Indian ingredients and flavours with the traditional Sicilian rice croquette. The leaves of the rosella plant are commonly used by Fijians of South Indian descent in chutneys and vegetable curries while the soothing yogurt raita (a tzatziki style concoction) often finishes off a spicy meal in Indo-Fijian homes. The menu also features gluten-free, vegetarian and low calorie options.

Believe the Hype For a world-class dining experience on Nadi’s Denarau Island (or Fiji for that matter), it’s hard to look past Sofitel Fiji’s V Restaurant. For years, foodie friends had been singing it praises and a cursory glance at TripAdvisor before my recent visit seemed to confirm the same - the restaurant ranks #1 out of 18 on Denarau Island. So early in the New Year (despite some unabandoned eating through the holidays), I set out to discover what all the fuss was about and I can happily report back that the hype is well justified.

French Fijian Fusion Over seven years, Kiwi executive chef Brendon Coffey and his team assembled an international menu that showcased innovative, Pacific-inspired food with a touch of French flair. This is no small feat. For context, Fijian resorts have historically worked almost exclusively with imported ingredients, so this move to embrace and promote local produce is commendable for a number of reasons. Visitors get to experience the country’s unique culinary offerings while local farming communities derive direct benefits from the tourism industry. And while other like-minded chefs and resorts are doing the same across Fiji, V’s offerings are at an haute cuisine level, placing the restaurant in a league of its own. The Grilled Tuna Lolo (F$48, AU$26) is a good example of this approach. It features a juicy yellowfin steak on a bed of fresh coconut miti and ota salad, finished off with just a smattering of wasabi oil. DISCOVER FIJI

Rose scented buttermilk cream.

Fresh e h from tel Sofit ic organ farm

Romance is Alive V for Vie, Village The restaurant takes its name in equal parts from the French word for life (vie) and the decision to source fresh ingredients from local farming communities (the vast majority of rural Fijians continue to live in villages). It’s an unlikely combination - marrying the rigorous and refined French approach to cuisine with the rustic simplicity of Fijian ingredients and flavours - but it works. Brendon (who has just recently moved back to New Zealand) and his team deserve kudos for bringing together these and other disparate influences (Italian, Indian, South East Asian and Japanese to name a few) and achieving culinary harmony.

The food is interesting and delicious but never belaboured. A new executive chef Jean-Marc Ruzzene picked up the baton in March. Whilst embracing local ingredients and flavours introduced by his predecessor, he is exerting a stronger French influence in the kitchen with his considerable Michelin Star experience.

We Serve:

No One Mix The Fruits... The Way We Do...

The other thing that struck me about my V experience is how unabashedly romantic it is. A small, intimate restaurant, it seats a maximum of 70 people - making it ideal for special occasions such as popping the question or celebrating an anniversary. I had a prime, candle-lit table by the window with views of the resort grounds and the Pacific Ocean in the distance. The tables are set apart so I couldn’t hear other diners (many of them couples) which is always a plus. It will come as no big revelation that the French have gotten eating (or for that matter living) down to a fine art. That French joie de vivre is present here in spades - from the artfully finished interior to the faultless service - making dining at V a feast for all the senses.

Indian Fijian Chines e Thai ... Western Meals

No Place to Relax in Nadi!! Back of Jack’s Handicraft Nadi Town Fresh Brewed Coffee, Freshly Baked Pizza, Refreshing Drinks & Smoothies Mouth Watering Breakfast Lunch & Dinner Menu - made from farm fresh fruits & vegetables. Try our “ Thin Crust Pizza” with lots fresh topping!!

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100% HALAL

M: +6797769912 I Email: tuttie.fruity@ymail.com

Sofitel Fiji’s ‘V’ restaurant.

Champagne Breakfast I followed up an outstanding dinner at V with an adults-only breakfast at Salt, Sofitel Fiji’s casual beachside restaurant. The resort runs a breakfast buffet from 6.30am to 11am at its Lagoon Restaurant but if you’re looking for a more luxurious, grown-up experience, head here at 8am. A basket of gorgeous French pastries (pain au raisin, croissant, baguette, etc) and a platter of artfully sliced tropical fruit found its way to my table soon after I sat down. I started my day with a delicious café au lait and a decadent French rolled omelet (with a smoked salmon, sour cream and chive centre) off the a la carte menu. I’m counting the days to my next trip there.

TRAVEL TIP

Sofitel’s pare nt the Accor Gro up’s Advantage Pl us Card gets yo u up to 50% off on your food bill

THE DEETS V Restaurant, Sofitel Fiji, Denarau Island. Tel: +679 675 1111 Opens Tuesday to Saturday 6.30pm to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday, Monday. Adults Only. Reservations recommended.

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The

Fiji Islands

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adi N For a cultural fix, visit the colourful South Indian temple Sri Siva Subramaniya on the Nadi Back Road, then get lunch at nearby Tata’s, a hole in the wall that serves delicious curries. See the late actor Raymond Burr’s private orchid collection at the Garden of the Sleeping Giant, then take a jungle walk through tropical rainforest at the foothills of the Nausori Highlands. Cover yourself in mud before taking a dip in the naturallyoccurring hot springs in Sabeto Valley, halfway between Nadi and Lautoka. Navala Village in the Ba Highlands is worth a visit for its traditional, thatched dwellings (a rarity) and scenic surroundings. Windsurf at Nananu-i-ra Island, off Rakiraki.

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Fiji’s Jet Set Town Nadi is the main port of entry (and exit) for most travellers to Fiji, earning it the nickname ‘The Jet Set Town’. Nadi Town is essentially a one-street town, home to department store chains and mom-and-pop stores, a handicraft centre and a stunning South Indian temple. Halfway between Nadi International Airport and town, you’ll find Martintar, an area renowned for its nightlife and restaurants. Backpackers head to Wailoaloa (literally ‘black water’) so named for the volcanic sand found here. Thirty minutes north of Nadi is Lautoka, Fiji’s second largest city. Known as the ‘Sugar City’, it is home to the country’s largest sugar mill. Further north are the scenic rural towns of Ba, Tavua and Rakiraki, a popular windsurfing spot.

Head to Martintar in the early evening, an area bustling with bars and restaurants. Grab a drink at Ed’s Bar, then take your pick from Chinese (Small Plates), Continental (Taste Fiji, Antoinette’s), Indian (Sitar), Japanese (Daikoku) and Korean (Arirang) eateries. For authentic North Indian cuisine in Nadi, head to Saffron Tandoori Restaurant in the Jack’s Mall. LC’s in Namaka is a popular Chinese joint.

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TAVUA

YASAWA ISLANDS LAUTOKA

NADI BAY MAMANUCA ISLANDS

DENARAU NADI TOWN

Viti Levu

MOMI BAY

Nadi SIGATOKA

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Nadi Town is home to department store chains Jack’s of Fiji, Prouds and Tappoo, which stock a mix of local products and international brand names. Visit the Handicraft Market to see artisans making local craft.

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KOROTOGO

Nadi

Off the Beaten Path

Zipping

Things get even trickier in the wet season, when regular downpours turn these paths into downhill streams. That all changed in September with the opening of a new adventure park in the Sabeto Valley with an all-weather walking track that takes visitors to the base of a tripletiered waterfall in less than 20 minutes. Sleeping Giant Zipline Fiji encompasses 35 acres of virgin rainforest, home not only to these falls but rapid-fed swimming pools and, as the name suggests, a daring zipline course that hovers over the jungle. Sleeping Giant Zipline Fiji is the crowning achievement of American landscape architect Kevin Purser. Like many foreigners who’ve settled or tried to settle in Fiji, Purser came here in 2000 following the dream and romance of life in the tropics. He spent years sailing and scuba diving the length and breadth of Fiji’s archipelago before settling down in the coastal town of Latoka. There, Purser purchased a sawmill and a number of logging concessions and went about making a life for himself. However, things didn’t go his way and last year, he sold the business at a significant loss.

Through the Valley A few kilometres north of Nadi International Airport on the Fijian island of Viti Levu, Queens Road passes a left-hand turn marked ‘Sabeto’. Alternating from bitumen to dirt, it travels inland into a velvet-green valley formed by a colossal saw-tooth mountain range known as the Sleeping Giant for its resemblance to the profile of a sleeping human form. Reaching heights of 650m, its slopes are covered in thick green jungle and pockmarked with waterfalls that feed tributaries of the Sabeto River. Reaching them is not a problem, so long as you have a strong four-wheel drive and even stronger knees for trekking hours up a steep mountain path.

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But rather than go back home to Arizona with his tail between his legs, Purser invested his remaining funds in a leasehold in the Sabeto Valley and went back to his roots to create a world-class tourism project. “Back in the States, my custom forte as a landscaper were high-impact features like waterfalls and diamond-cut flagstones,” he says. “Everything I did was big and beautiful and luxurious and unlike anything else out there.” Armed with hundreds of slabs of hardwood from his old sawmill, Purser designed and built a rustic cabin-style restaurant that rates among the most beautiful new buildings in Fiji. Three-inch salt cedar floorboards interlock to create the look and feel of a set for The Flintstones,

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while the chunky handrails, tables, stools and flagstone bar are so smooth and polished they feel like plastic. “I used to tell my carpenters that if you run your hand along it and it doesn’t feel as smooth as a baby’s bum, then it’s not finished and you need to keep on sanding,” Purser says of the year-long construction process. “When people come here now, they think it looks like an old shearing shed that’s been here forever, something that fits in with the forest.” The magnificent two-storey building with change rooms, a sandwich station and bar overlooks a bend in the river where Purser has spent the full beef of his landscaping know-how to create waterslides, jumping platforms and swimming pools with boulders, river stones and concrete when necessary. He’s planted hundreds of colourful orchids not only on the banks but high up on tree trunks, plus coffee trees, tree ferns and a million pineapples along the path leading up to the waterfall. On the halfway mark to the falls, a giant, solidified creeper vine with a diameter more than a meter swallows a rainwood tree and forms a sky-bridge to another tree, which it swallows too. It’s like something out of Jurassic Park, with two more monstrous creeper vines around the next bend.

Nadi Purser’s work hasn’t been restricted to his property. He has spent tens of thousands of dollars rebuilding a bridge that is now being used by all the villagers in the area. He’s also introduced hundreds of fish into his pools that will in time supply villagers with fresh fish stocks downriver. He’s also created 50 local jobs

and taken action to protect his property from development for posterity. “This place should have been a national park,” he says. “I’ve got a 99-year lease on it and after I die, it will be put into a trust, so it will always be protected.” Adds Michelle Khan, co-owner of the Sabeto Valley’s Stoney Creek Resort down

the road: “It’s incredible what Kevin has built up there. There’s nothing else like it in all of Fiji.” Then there’s the prime attraction: the zipline course. When I visited the property in August prior to its grand opening, only four of the 12 ziplines that will eventually link and combine 1.5km of canopy-height airspace had been installed. And to be honest, I was non-plussed as I climbed the large wooden tower at the start of the course. I’ve flown in a fighter jet, sailed to the Antarctica and even swam with sharks to get stories in the past, so I couldn’t really see how a zipline - essentially a toy for children - was going to give me much of a buzz. Boy, was I wrong. After the handlers strapped me into a harness and lashed me onto the zipline I walked to the towers edge. The moment I looked down onto the rocks and trees carpeting the valley below, my heart began racing so fast I could feel my pulse in my hands. Then I let go.

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Suddenly I was flying like Tarzan through the trees, yelling at the top of my lungs as the canopy rushed past me at 60 kilometres per hour. Thirty seconds later, I reached the next tower safely, ready to do it all over again and again and again. It’s pretty addictive stuff. As for Purser, I think it’s fair to say he’s finally found the dream he was chasing in the tropics. “I was a landscaper, then I got into logging, but now I’ve gone back to being a landscaper,” he says. “I’m a lot happier for that.” – Ian Lloyd Neubauer

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THE DEETS Sleeping Giant Zipline Fiji (www.ziplinefiji.com, +679 6667935) is found in the Sabeto Valley, 20 minutes drive from Nadi International Airport. A day pass including unlimited ziplines, lunch, refreshments and pick-up from Denarau Island or Nadi is FJ$189. Discounts apply for Fijians and spectators. Rooms at Sabeto Valley’s Stoney Creek Resort (Ph: +679 672 2206, www.stoneycreekfiji.net) are FJ$165 per night with breakfast for two.

Denarau Denarau Marina is the main point of entry to the beautiful Mamanuca and Yasawa Islands. Here, you’ll find super yachts, cruiseline groups, cruise operators such as South Sea Cruises and Captain Cook (which offer day cruises to nearby islands) and great fishing charters. Denarau’s 18-hole championship golf course, set amidst lush tropical greens with bunkers shaped like marine creatures and waterways, is suitable for all levels of golfers. In addition, there are four all-weather lit courts and six natural grass courts for tennis players. Each resort also offers a variety of water sports from jet skiing, parasailing, waterskiing, fishing, diving and snorkelling. If your idea of activity is more sedate, there are beaches and pools aplenty as well as a number of spas to indulge your every whim.

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A Destination Unto Itself Denarau Island is the South Pacific’s largest integrated resort, home to some of the world’s leading hotel brands (Hilton, Sheraton, Sofitel, Radisson BLU and more). You’ll also find a championship golf course and tennis ranch as well as a shopping centre and a bustling marina that serves as a gateway to Fiji’s picturesque outer islands. Only 20 minutes from Nadi International Airport and eight minutes from Nadi Town, a causeway links Fiji’s main island Viti Levu to Denarau.

Each resort boasts world-class restaurants (such as Sri Lankan/ Aussie celebrity chef Peter Kuruvita’s Flying Fish Fiji at Sheraton Fiji) making Denarau a veritable food mecca. Then, there’s the Port Denarau joints which run the gamut from casual (familiar and exotic pizzas at Mama’s Pizza) to grown-up Indian fare at Indigo. You’ll also find the Hard Rock Café’s only Fijian outpost here alongside Lulu Bar Fiji, a hip café by day and a jazzy lounge bar by night.

EATS

WORLDMARK BY WYNDHAM

Denarau

For souvenirs that smell as good as they look, head to Sofitel Fiji, which houses a flagship store for home-grown beauty and skincare brand Pure Fiji. For local fashion, traditional artifacts and everyday essentials, visit the Port Denarau shopping complex.

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Denarau Things to do

Whether your idea of fun is jumping out of a plane (with a parachute, of course) or engaging in some spa or retail therapy, there’s literally something for everyone on family-friendly Denarau Island. Here are our picks:

Adrenalin Rush

Jet Boat Ride This one’s been described as “Fast - Loud - Wet!”. Take an exhilarating 30-minute jet boat ride along the Denarau oceanfront or through a nearby mangrove-lined river. Highly-trained jet boat drivers will blast you over the water then do a 360-degree spin. Fun for the whole family.

THE DEETS Jet Boat and Banana Rides as well as Parasailing are all offered by Adrenalin Fiji, which is based at Port Denarau Marina and operates daily.

Banana Ride

Parasailing

Jump on the Banana Ride and try not to laugh as you hold on while the skipper effortlessly pulls the inflated raft along for your tailor-made ride. A really fun activity for individuals, families and groups, the banana carries up to seven passengers per ride.

Soar above Denarau Island and admire the views to the Mamanuca Islands or watch the beachside activities. Adrenalin Fiji’s purpose-built European vessel allows safe deck launches and flights are suitable for one to three passengers (with a combined maximum weight of 180kg). Book the photographer to capture a lasting holiday memory.

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Denarau Golf, Tennis All level of golfers will enjoy Denarau’s 18-hole championship golf course, set amidst lush tropical greens with bunkers shaped like marine creatures and waterways. For tennis players, in addition to four all-weather lit courts, there are six natural grass courts on Denarau. Post-game, hit the Golf and Racquet Club for eats and drinks.

6 Cruise Denarau Marina is the main point of entry to the beautiful Mamanuca and Yasawa Groups of Islands and here you’ll find a multitude of cruise operators (including Captain Cook Cruises and South Sea Cruises) offering single and multi-day cruises.

Skydive Skydive Fiji offers novices the opportunity to experience freefall tandem skydiving over beautiful Fijian islands and reefs before landing primarily on one of the resort beaches on Denarau Island. Fiji’s warm climate and views make for a great skydive experience. “It was a real pleasure just jumping out of a plane in a pair of shorts and T-shirt and not be cold,” says one satisfied customer on TripAdvisor.

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Denarau

Pamper Denarau is home to some of the best spas in the South Pacific, with the latest treatments from around the globe as well as signature Fijian therapies such as the Bobo (bombo), a traditional healing massage passed down through the ages. At Port Denarau, experience local skincare brand Pure Fiji’s therapies and products made from indigenous ingredients such as organic coldpressed drift nut oils, raw sugarcane and antioxidant leaf hydrosols at Spa Denarau. You’ll also find Spa Maya, Fiji’s first Indian concept ayurvedic spa here. It offers the indulgent Shirodhara, where warm oil is continuously dripped over the third eye chakra (forehead) for the better part of an hour as part of a deep scalp massage.

Photos: Adrenalin Fiji, skydive fiii, westin fiji, port denarau

9 Indulge Denarau is a veritable food mecca with a host of signature restaurants to choose from at big-name resorts. In addition, Port Denarau is home to a number of excellent dining establishments offering everything from American (Hard Rock Café) to seafood (Bonefish) and Indian fare (Indigo). Mama’s Pizza, a home-grown chain with several outlets in Nadi, has a family-friendly outpost at Port Denarau as does Cardo’s, which is renowned for its steaks and seafood.

Centre. n’s Indoor Play lable! Creche avaiDe narau

re Fiji’s ONLY Child

Location - Port

Splurge

P 6750192 E enquiries@funfactoryfiji.com W www.funfactoryfiji.com

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Outside of the resort boutiques, Port Denarau is the place to head to for some retail therapy - and to discover Fijian brands. Jack’s of Fiji runs a number of boutiques here, which carry local handicraft and fashion. Pineapple Boutique specialises in high-end designer resortwear. Dahia Shoes is doing interesting things with local materials such as raw barkcloth. In addition, you’ll find a number of surf-inspired Fijian brands.

THE LEGEND... The early 1800’s witnessed the arrival of Espero Cardo and his herd of some of the world’s finest beef cattle to Fiji. Originally bound for Australia, this shipment of prized animals from the pampas of Argentina was pirated in the Koro Sea by war canoeists of the Tavuteke Clan. The services of stockman Cardo was necessary and so his life and cattle were spared. The Fijian grasslands proved ideally nutritional for raising the perfect beef beast. Now, four generations later, the perfect steak is available in Fiji’s best little steak house of the Pacific.

Cardo’s Steak House Port Denarau, Nadi - Reservations: 675 0900

Mamanucas

CAPTURED ON FILM The picturesque Mamanuca islands have played host to numerous reality TV shows and films over the years, among them: Survivor (Mana Island); Cast Away (Modriki Island); and Celebrity Love Island (Bounty Island). As elsewhere in Fiji, the Mamanucas is great for all kinds of water sports. CRUISE A myriad of day cruises departing Port Denarau give visitors a chance to experience the area (without having to overnight on an island). SURF Surfers head to Cloudbreak - one of the world’s top surf spots - near the islands of Tavarau and Namotu. PARTY One of the longestrunning resorts in the area, Beachcomber, is the official party island.

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Castaway Island Resort’s executive chef Lance Seeto has put the Mamanucas on the world map with his innovative Pacific fusion cuisine. Likuliku Lagoon Resort, home to Fiji’s first over-water bungalows, is also renowned for its fresh, creative cuisine.

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Many village visits include market stalls where locals sell tapa (a handmade bark cloth painted with natural dyes); handicrafts, shells and necklaces.

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Magical Mamanucas The Mamanuca (pronounced Ma-ma-nootha) island group, is a collection of 20 sand-fringed islands set among deep blue waters. Situated inside the Malolo Barrier Reef, this stunning group of islands is easily accessible from the mainland and offers ideal conditions for boating, scuba diving, snorkelling and other water-based activities. Here, you can find the island used in Tom Hanks’ film Cast Away alongside other traditional Fijian villages and many popular island resorts - perfect for families, couples and independent travellers.

The Mamanucas

NADI BAY

TROPICA

MUSKET COVE

PLANTATION LOMANI

TAVARUA CLOUDBREAK

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TURTLE POWER An area wide partnership between tourism operators, local communities, government and corporate organisations has resulted in the Mamanuca Environmental Society, which raises awareness of the need to protect the area’s marine and terrestrial resources. Lucky guests get to see turtles released into the wild.

Mamanucas THE BIG WAVE: Hawaiian Dusty Payne surfs Cloudbreak.

Powerful an d challenging -a world class w ave - only a shor t boat ride from th e island - tavarua.co m

Sitting on the tip of the Mamanuca Island chain, Tavarua Island is strategically positioned on a barrier reef to take advantage of seven distinct waves within its proximity including world-famous Cloudbreak. American Dave Clark established Tavarua Island Resort as the world’s first surfing resort some 30 years ago. Today, it’s called the “mother of all world-class surf resorts” and hosts the annual Volcom Fiji Pro, drawing the likes of Kelly Slater, who took out the competition in 2012. It’s a far cry from the Tavarua Island of three decades ago, when there were only single fin surfboards and no mobile phones. Back in those days, to reach Tavarua you would take a small boat with one of the local villagers or fisherman who would head out the five miles to collect coconuts from the island. The wave that broke a mile to the south of Tavarua was called Naikurukurumailagi or Thundercloud Reef. It was Clark who gave the wave its current name back in 1983: Cloudbreak, one of the most famous names in the surfing world.

PHOTO: TOM CAREY

Surf

For the early surf travellers of the 70s and 80s, camping on beaches or staying with locals, drinking coconut juice and fishing for food was the norm. This is how Clark was first introduced to the island. But for him, the experience would be life altering. He graduated from the University of California in Santa Barbara with a degree in Environmental Studies and wrote his thesis on creating an artificial reef and a surf resort. As things turned out, he never had to create a reef, but instead found the perfect destination to actualise his dream. With a background in sustainable tourism and environmental issues, Clark wanted to create something different – a surf resort that would engage and benefit the local villages and give back to the communities, so that everyone could feel they were part of the island’s success. This founding principle of giving back is still in effect today, almost 30 years on. Philanthropic donations of time, medical assistance and supplies are funnelled into Fijian communities around the country via the resort. – Jan Mallis

10%10% 10% DISCOUNT DISCOUNT

DISCOUNT

Phone : (679) 666 1500 Fax : (679) 666 4496 Phone : (679) 666 1500 Email : info@beachcomberfiji.com Phone 666 1500 Faxwww.beachcomberfiji.com : (679): (679) 666 4496

Fax 666 4496 Email:: (679) info@beachcomberfiji.com Email : info@beachcomberfiji.com www.beachcomberfiji.com www.beachcomberfiji.com

FULL & HALF DAY CRUISES

FULL & HALF DAY CRUISES FULL & HALF DAY CRUISES DISCOVER FIJI

on a Cloud The moment I heard about it, I knew it was going to be something worth writing home about. But how can I describe it? A floating restaurant, a day club-cum-houseboat, a surfing platform: Fiji’s Cloud 9 is all those things and more. And it is moored in a sparkling blue lagoon in front of Cloudbreak, an offshore reef wave 15 minutes boat ride from the main Fijian island of Viti Levu’s west coast that is the stuff surfers’ dreams are made of. “Cloudbreak is the best wave on earth,” says former surfing world champion Kelly Staler. “It’s everything you want in a wave.” And he should know. With the exception of the owners and boatmen of Tavarua Camp and nearby Tavarua Island, Slater has surfed more waves at Cloudbreak than just about anyone on earth. In June this year, he out-surfed a slew of younger and ambitious pros like Australia’s Mick Fanning and defending world champion Joel Parkinson to take home the winner’s trophy at Volcom Fiji Pro, Cloudbreak’s world-famous surfing contest watched on webcasts by millions around the globe.

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Mamanucas

Mates Rates Before I go on, journalistic integrity requires me to disclose that Cloud 9 is co-owned by my best mate Bar’el Wachtel. Bar’el and I met at a school camp 25 years ago and have been close ever since. Until his mother passed away, his mum and mine were also besties, so our bond is as close as that of brothers. After graduating from high-school, we spent years travelling the globe together: riding camels in Egypt’s Sinai Peninsula, exploring the ancient temples of Cambodia on dirt bikes and partying at raves in Israel and Byron Bay. Somewhere along the line, I settled down - if you can call living a stone’s throw away from Bondi Beach and working as a travel journalist to pay the rent as ‘settling down’. But the free-soul that is Bar’el, he

would have none of that. For the past five years, he’s been working, if you can call it that, as an in-house DJ in some of the world’s most decadent hotels and resorts: the Six Senses Lammau in the Maldives; Kempinski in Bodrum, Turkey; and Bangkok, to name but a few. So you can imagine my surprise when Bar’el called me last year and told me he was moving to Fiji to start a new business of his own: a world-first surf tourism concept called Cloud 9. “The idea first came about when my father sailed his yacht to Fiji,” Bar’el says. “I flew from Sydney to meet him and spent a few days on the yacht and surfing Cloudbreak, where I met my business partner Tony Philp. Tony is a bit of a celebrity in Fiji; he’s a four-time former world windsurfing champion and represented Fiji in the

Olympics in sailing five times. “Tony and I got talking about how amazing it would be to have a permanent platform at Cloudbreak and all the possibilities it would open up in terms of tourism there. At the time, it was just talk, an idea, but a few months later, he rang me up and told me he’d found the hull of an old houseboat that would make the perfect building block for a surfing platform. Tony’s sister Lisa is an architect, and she came up with a modern twist on the tiki design with daybeds, hanging chairs, a big wooden bar and sun sails that could cater to about 100 people. So we started looking around for some investors. But when that didn’t work out, we decided it was something we really wanted to do, so we put our life savings into the project and never looked back.” DISCOVER FIJI

Trouble in Paradise I was somewhat disturbed when they told me Cloud 9 had met strong opposition from locals since it opened for the Volcom Fiji Pro in June. According to my hosts, a crew of fishermen, allegedly working for or incited by residents of the mainland village of Moni, had attempted to scuttle Could 9. Since Cloudbreak was discovered in the 1980s, Moni had made a motza from indigenous fishing rights its residents had corrupted to claim exclusive surfing rights at Cloudbreak and charge operators like Tavarua Camp exorbitant access fees, which were in turn passed onto foreign surfers. Fijian surfers who couldn’t afford the levies were therefore denied access. But the introduction of the Regulations of Surfing Areas Decree in 2010 annulled all previous title claims on surfing areas and made it a crime to obstruct or attempt to obstruct anyone from surfing anywhere in Fiji. In other words, Cloudbreak was liberated. But old habits die hard as the fishermen who had allegedly attempted to scuttle Cloud 9 before it even opened had proved. The next day, I catch a taxi to Bar’el’s apartment in Nadi and ask him if the story is true. He nods his head.

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Mamanucas Living the Dream All that doubt is assuaged the moment we motor out of Nadi’s backpacker district Smugglers Cove and into the warm waters of Nadi Bay. A few minutes later, we approach the Mamanucas, a chain of 20-something sand-ringed islands, islets and exposed coral reefs home to some of Fiji’s most popular offshore resorts. The only thing bluer than the sky is the water breaking on the bow, a fluorescent shade of cobalt that becomes clear as glass when we glide over sandbanks. Yachts and cruise boats bob up and down on the horizon. Kite surfers and flying fish skip over waves. Jet skis rush past us, gunning it full throttle as helicopter joy flights fly overhead in what has to be one of the world’s greatest aquatic playgrounds. Forty-five minutes after take off, we skirt around Tavarua Island and I see Cloud 9. Yet I’m only able to fully appreciate the uniqueness of Bar’el and Tony’s creation when I step onto its hull to take in the uninterrupted 360-degree lagoon views. Unlike a pleasure craft or boat, it’s stable and solid, barely moving despite the wind that kicks up when the tide rises later in the day. The mahogany deck surrounds a large bar managed by Yassine Ouled Dlala, a merchant sailor from Tunisia who now spends his day on Cloud 9 making margaritas, pinacoladas and tropical fruit smoothies bursting with colour and flavour. Oversize day beds with roll cushions sheltered by sun sails make Cloud 9 literally pop out of the ocean, while the aromas of barbecued fish, chicken and vegetable skewers waft from a teppanyaki grill set in a corner. And then there’s Bar’el playing his signature ultra-lounge electro-fused Bossa Nova tunes on the deck behind the bar. In a world where so many tourism attractions are facsimiles of one another, it’s refreshing to see something as unique and exciting as Cloud 9.

It breaks the mold in terms of access to off-shore surf breaks hitherto limited to expensive island properties and seacraftbased surfing safaris. Yet what really stands out about Cloud 9 is the diversity of the patrons. I expected it to be full of long-haired surfers, yet the crowd were predominantly non-surfers: backpackers from as far as the UK and Canada, middle-age yachties, locals who rocked up on fishing boats, young families snorkelling around the reef or mucking around on stand-up paddle boards and a couple of retirees sitting back, sipping chilled wine and taking it all in. “I have been to this country seven or eight times now,” says Nick Pasons from New Zealand, “and this is by far the best thing I’ve ever done in Fiji.” – WORDS: Ian Lloyd Neubauer | PHOTOS: Tor Johnson

THE DEETS Entry is free to Cloud 9 (Ph: +679 9088 972, www.cloud9.com.fj) Beers are FJ$10, cocktails start at FJ$21 and teppanyaki BBQ meals cost FJ$16-$34. Transfers from Nadi (Denarau or Smugglers Cove) take 45 minutes and cost FJ$69 per person.

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Yasawas Sawa-i-Lau Caves One of the areaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best known attractions, the Sawa-i-Lau Caves are a series of about a hundred interconnected limestone caves located at the northern tip of the Yasawa chain. According to local folklore, Uluitini, a ten-headed god is thought to reside in these caves. Rest assured, the cave is friendly for swimmers, snorkellers and divers - offering a varied experience for each. Many northern resorts, some 30 to 45 minutes away, offer guided tours to the caves.

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS

Untouched Beauty The Yasawa group is made up of some 20 islands of volcanic origin, north west of Viti Levu. The region was made famous by the film The Blue Lagoon starring Brooke Shields and the Blue Lagoon itself and the nearby caves are popular spots for swimming. The islands are renowned for their laid back pace and offer white sandy beaches, crystalline waters and lush forest, against the backdrop of soaring peaks. There is a wide range of accommodation types available, from budget bures to five star resorts. The Yasawas are accessed daily from Port Denarau and Lautoka by fast catamarans and resort water taxis; or by seaplane and helicopter from Nadi.

SWIM WITH MANTA RAYS Between May and October, the waters around Mantaray Island Resort on Nanuya Balavu Island play host to Pacific Manta Ray, with as many as thirteen recorded at one time. Daily snorkelling trips allow visitors to experience these magnificent creatures up close as they glide majestically through the nutrient-rich channels around the island. stayinfiji.com

SAWA-I-LAU

BLUE LAGOON

NANUYA TURTLE NAVUTU STARS BOTAIRA

SNORKEL A WWII WRECK South Sea Cruises offers snorkelling trips to Narewa Bay, the site of a WWII plane wreck. ssc.com.fj

MANTARAY OCTOPUS

The Yasawa Group

Captain Cook Cruises, Blue Lagoon Cruises and South Sea Cruises offer day, 3, 4 and 7-night cruises of the Yasawa Islands.

CRUISE THE ISLANDS

Vinaka Fiji, a charitable foundation, runs volunteer programmes that provide basic needs and amenities (such as fresh water, nutrition and education) that are missing from village life in the Yasawas. vinakafiji.com

VOLUNTEER

MAMANUCA ISLANDS

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Yasawas

Sawa-i-Lau Caves

Chest deep in fresh water on a ledge of a cave lit by the single beam of a torch, our Fijian guide held out his hand and grinned. “Welcome to the heart of the Yasawas,” he said. “If you haven’t been here, you haven’t been to the Yasawas. Now that you are here, you can sing a song for us.” Guide Vuni and his friend Moses went quiet and smiled, waiting for us to fill the cave with what they hoped would be a marvellous rendition of a noble song from our homeland. Instead, we gave them Jingle Bells. After labouring through several verses and abruptly giving up, Vuni and Moses clapped and cheered our limited singing abilities as if we’d won some singing contest. Then it was time to exit the cave: the only way was to swim back through the underwater passage where we had entered. Vuni went first, disappearing beneath the water for a couple of seconds, before shining his torch back towards us to show the way out.

A deep breath and a couple of underwater strokes later, we surfaced back in the main cave with sunlight streaming on one side. We were on a morning trip to Sawa-iLau, a cave complex inside the base of a remote island in the far north-west of the Fijian archipelago. The natural attraction is better known as the Blue Lagoon Caves. It was used as a

location in the 1979 film, starring Brooke Shields. Yet by whatever name it was known, we had been told that visiting the caves was a must-do for visits to this farflung corner of the Pacific. Arriving by boat beneath the sharp peak rising out of the lagoon was an experience in itself, before we even descended into the caves.

Most resorts in the Yasaw a Group offer day trips to the Sawa-i-La u Caves.

The cave’s limestone walls are decorated with ancient rock paintings, suggesting a bygone people who may have once inhabited the caves. DISCOVER FIJI

Once we had re-emerged from the journey into the dark chamber, we lingered in the cool water and watched others climb the inside walls of the cave to jump back into the deep central pool. Of all Fiji’s underwater adventures, this had to be classed as one of the more unexpected. Once we were cool enough, we headed up the steps and out of the caves and back down to the beach. There, women from the local village spread blankets out on the ground and laid out homemade jewellery, featuring shells and shiny stones gathered from the shore. A short paddle out past the moored boats of visiting groups and there was a vibrant reef with soft and hard corals and a myriad of fish among them: a more Words: Andy Phillips familiar Fijian scene.

Photography: Wolfgang Kaehler

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THE DEETS Sawailau Caves is located on Sawailau Island in the Yasawa Islands off Fiji’s mainland Viti Levu (accessible by boat). Blue Lagoon Cruises and Captain Cook Cruises offers special tourism cruises to Yasawa and you board the vessel at Nadi’s Port Denarau Marina to get to the Yasawas. Blue Lagoon Beach Resort on the nearby Nacula Island also takes guests to the caves three times a week for a reasonable fee. It takes 25 to 30 minutes by boat from the resort.

Coral Coast MEET THE CRITTERS AT KULA ECO PARK Kula Eco Park, opposite the Outrigger on the Lagoon Resort, is home to Fiji’s endemic flora and fauna such as the banded and crested iguanas and five types of musk parrots to name a few. fijiwild.com

GOLF AT NATADOLA BAY Voted one of the world’s top beaches by Conde Nast Traveler, Natadola now has a championship golf course to match. Natadola Bay blends world-class golf architecture with dramatic landscapes from rolling pastures through to absolute beachfront. natadolabay.com

GO ON A RIVER SAFARI

Island Feel on the Mainland

The multiple award-winning Sigatoka River Safari transports you deep into the heart and soul of Fiji aboard custom-built safari jet boats. Visit authentic Fijian villages and experience a day in the life of the real ‘kaiviti’ (Fijian). sigatokariver.com

The Coral Coast was one of the first tourism areas to develop in Fiji. It stretches 130 kilometres along the southern shores of Viti Levu, with easy access via the Queen’s Highway, which connects the jetset town of Nadi and the capital city Suva. It boasts large resorts, some smaller accommodation options with a distinctly Fijian feel and a world-class golf course. Many of these properties enjoy white sandy beaches and magnificent views of the waves breaking along the famous coral reef. You get the best of both worlds here: the small island feel of beachside resorts and interesting excursions such as jet boat rides, cave tours and an eco park found only on the mainland.

EXPLORE NAIHEHE CAVES With Off-Road Cave Safari, getting to Fiji’s largest cave system is half the fun. A barge transports your all-terrain vehicle (with driver) across the mighty Sigatoka River. From there, it’s an off-the-beaten-track journey along winding mountain ranges and through remote villages to the spellbinding Naihehe Caves. offroadfiji.com

The Coral Coast

Outside the resorts, Koko’s Bar on the old Queen’s Drive in Korotogo does casual eats with spectacular ocean views. In Sigatoka Town, head to Cuppabula in the Tappoo shopping complex for coffee and cake.

Viti Levu

EATS

Seashell Momi

Intercontinental

NATADOLA

SIGATOKA

KOROTOGO VATUKARASA

Bedarra Inn Outrigger

Sand Dunes Waikele Cave Tours River Safari -

Beach Cocomo

KOROVISILOU

Tambua Sands Hideaway

- Kula Eco Park

The small township of Sigatoka is home to department store/souvenir chains of Jack’s of Fiji, Prouds and Tappoo, as well as smaller traders. Check out the fresh fruit and vegetable market for a slice of rural life. Baravi Handicrafts in Korolevu makes for a great pit stop on the road from Sigatoka Town to the capital, Suva.

SHOP

KOROLEVU

Warwick Hotel Naviti Hotel

GALOA

Mango Bay

Beachouse

BEQA

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GO COASTAL Long regarded as the birthplace of Fiji’s tourism industry, it’s hard to believe that the bustling, ever-popular Coral Coast began with a single resort in the 1950s. Today, it’s one of the most thriving destinations in Fiji; its bevy of beachside resorts offering a winning combination of sun, sand and sea. What’s more? The area’s numerous natural attractions means there’s something for everyone: from families with young children to active couples and the elderly. Located on the south west of Fiji’s main island Viti Levu, the Coral Coast is 80km of golden beaches, beautiful bays and lush tropical vegetation. The area is renowned for its endless sunny days, with less rain than other parts of Fiji, yet another reason for its enduring popularity. No wonder resort operators have flocked here, from big international names like Shangri-La and

InterContinental to smaller family-run enterprises and everything in-between. No matter where you stay, absolute beach frontage is always guaranteed. For those that prefer the convenience of a large-scale resort with all the amenities (including fully-fledged kids clubs) Shangri-La’s Fijian Resort, InterContinental Fiji, Outrigger On The Lagoon, Sonaisali Island Resort and The Naviti are your best bets. A host of two to three star properties dotted along the coast provide pocket-friendly options while specialist outfits such as Mango Bay and Club Masa appeal, respectively, to flashpackers and surfers. Luxury connoisseurs may go for the boutique experience at Myola Plantation or Vatulele Island Resort, while Korotogo (a mini destination within a destination) has many smaller places for the independent traveller. As the area’s name might suggest, the Coral Coast is home to one of the largest fringing reef systems in the world, making it an excellent place for snorkelling and diving. And just outside the resort environment, you’ll find any number of unique attractions to explore: the tagline for Coral Coast tourism rightly being “Where Tradition, Culture and Nature Meet”. Kula Eco Park, with its collection of Fiji’s endemic animals, is hugely popular with kids; while the Sigatoka Sand Dunes, an area of outstanding natural beauty and historical significance, offers something for varying fitness levels. The Sigatoka River Safari offers a rare glimpse into authentic village life via an exhilarating jet boat ride while the Off-Road Cave Safari takes you inside Fiji’s largest cave system, the Naihehe Cave.

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coral Coast Kula Eco Park Fiji’s “wild side” can be found at Kula Eco Park, a centre for the captive breeding of the country’s endangered species. Naturally, the place is huge with the kids. Where else can they pat one of two types of iguanas found only in Fiji? Or have their picture taken with a colourful, red-breasted musk parrot (one of six varieties unique to the Melanesian archipelago)? But the big surprise here is that couples may enjoy the place as much as families. A boarded walk through rainforest canopy (with bright tropical flowers and equally enchanting birdsong) makes for a romantic way to spend a couple of hours.

Viti Eco Tours leads excursions to Fijian villages (where guests participate in a kava ceremony, see traditional methods of making salt and pottery); old limestone quarries and caves as well as the Momi Gun Site from World War II.

Sigatoka’s mostly Indo-Fijian township is the place to do your holiday shopping while its open-air market is a must visit to see fresh produce from Sigatoka Valley as well as take in the atmosphere of buyers and vendors doing their bantering and bargaining. Eating outside the resorts is limited

THE DEETS Opposite Outrigger on the Lagoon Resort. Open daily 10am to 4pm Entry: Adults F$30 Children under 12 years F$15 +679 6500 505 | fijiwild.com

to a handful of places. Vilisite’s specialty is traditional Fijian cuisine, Gecko’s has a wide-ranging menu while Le Café, run by a former Swiss chef, does casual eats with drinks. New to the scene, Koko’s Bar in Korotogo has an eclectic, international menu with spectacular ocean views. – Rajan Sami

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Pacific HArbour Whizz along eight thrilling ziplines (many over 200 metres long) through dense rainforest canopy and over river streams (zip-fiji.com). Postzipline, pick up organic nutmeg, fresh peppercorns and whole vanilla pods for a steal at nearby Wainadoi Spice Gardens. Explore the rapids and waterfalls of Luva River; raft pristine Upper Navua Gorge; or sea kayak and snorkel incredible coral reefs with Rivers Fiji (riversfiji.com). See up to eight species of sharks including Bull, Tiger and Silvertip sharks on Aquatrek’s Shark Dive (aquatrek.com). Take a guided tour on self-drive jet skis that take you sight-seeing and snorkelling with lunch on Beqa Island (jetski-safari.com). Tee off at the Pearl South Pacific Resort’s 18-hole, par-72 championship golf course, set amongst tropical rainforest and winding canals, with 66 bunkers and multiple water hazards on 12 of the 18 holes. (thepearlsouthpacific.com). Go inland on a self-drive buggy, before trekking to waterfalls (terratrektoursfiji.com). Cruise to a secluded beach on Beqa Island and swim at a natural waterfall with Paradise Beach Fiji (fb.com/ paradisebeachfiji).

MOVE

Fiji’s Adventure Capital Situated on the east coast of Fiji’s main island Viti Levu, Pacific Harbour is a veritable mecca for active travellers. Whether it’s zip-lining through a tropical rainforest, paddling class II to III rapids or hand-feeding hungry sharks; this area’s got it all. What’s more? Nearby Beqa Island is home to Fiji’s legendary firewalkers, who walk on hot stones unscathed. Famed oceanographer Jacques Cousteau called Beqa Lagoon ‘The Soft Coral Capital of the World’, cementing its reputation as a premier dive destination. The area has a variety of accommodation to suit different budgets.

Viti Levu

Pacific Harbour TO NADI

LAGOON RESORT

ARTS VILLAGE

TO SUVA UPRISING BEACH RESORT

TAUNOVO AIRSTRIP THE PEARL SOUTH PACIFIC RESORT

Besides The Pearl South Pacific and Uprising resorts, the Arts Village complex has a number of eateries including the long-running Oasis, which serves up international cuisine. Next door, the newish Baka Blues Café is winning fans with its BBQ and Cajun-inspired menu and live music. Head to nearby Kumaran Chetty’s Restaurant for spicy local curries.

EATS

ROVODRAU BAY - Golf - River Rafting - Eco Tours - Cultural Shows - Shopping & Handicrafts - Restaurants & Cafés - Shark Dives - Zipline Tours BEQA

Browse the little shops at the Arts Village for resort clothing and holiday souvenirs, then grab a coffee or a bite to eat.

SHOP

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Dining with

Sharks

World famous Beqa Lagoon is a 360-square kilometre basin, protected by a large barrier reef that’s well-known for its surfing, reef and shark diving. Set up in 1999 by Aqua-Trek founder Brandon Paige, the dive on Shark Reef has been attracting many different species of sharks and has become world famous. Shark feeding is a somewhat controversial subject, however Aqua-Trek has worked with the traditional owners and government to protect the reef and make it a marine park. The reef is off limits to fishing and the villagers are compensated by way of a visitor’s fee. This means everyone including the fish benefit from the arrangement. Even the fish used to feed the sharks come from factory scraps and this means this food source is returned to the environment and not sent to a landfill.

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Experiencing the Dive Since we were going to be diving with numerous sharks, there was a strict plan in terms of how long we could spend at certain areas of the dive, where we were to be positioned, and things not to do, for example, hold your hands out. Once kitted up, we jumped in the water in our groups and followed the guide down the line. After the briefing, we were a little nervous expecting the leviathans to be circling us. However, we made it to the bottom safely, landing in around 25 metres of water and what was immediately apparent was the abundant fish life. At the beginning I did think it was a bit dark, however, when looking up, it was the fish life that was blotting out the sun - fish soup indeed.

pacific Harbour

munching on a fish head. Some of the sharks would hug the bottom, whereas others would be mid-water and come screaming into the fracas like a fighter plane. There was really so much activity going on that it was difficult to keep up. Thankfully, they have guides on hand to keep an eye on the divers and sharks keeping everything safe. There are around 8 species of sharks that come in for the feed such as bull sharks, silvertip and We were ushered to certain areas, one group of divers held onto a rope sheltered by a large stone wall and those with bigger cameras were allowed to hunker down behind a smaller wall nearer the action at the front. A large green bin was lowered down and this heralded the start of the madness. The fish activity suddenly ramped up; quite obviously knowing it was dinner time. The fish were so dense that the feeding diver was totally obscured with occasional bubbles coming out of the fish ball. All this activity in turn attracted the sharks and suddenly the fish mass would part and the shark would dart through

Location Location Location

st Fiji’s Be

grey reef sharks, to the more docile nurse sharks and around 300 species of fish. We even spotted a sea snake that meandered its way down for a morsel or two - quite oblivious to what was going on. After the dive, we heard stories of a resident brave turtle who would often squeeze past sharks 10 times its size to get a feed. The time seemed to pass so quickly and after 25 minutes, the group was guided back up the reef, past a wreck purposely sunk to provide shelter for marine life and interest to visiting divers. All too soon, we were low on air and had to return to the surface after pausing for our safety stops to let the accumulated nitrogen our bodies had absorbed - offgas. Back on the boat, everyone was laughing and discussing what they had seen, with the guides adding points of interest and names they have for all their resident sharks. Unfortunately, the legendary five-metre long tiger shark did not make an appearance, however this was a wild animal and not in an aquarium. For those that do see it - the experience is even more magical. – SHANE WASIK

Tel: +679. 345 0324 | aquatrek.com

Nearby Beqa Island is home to Fiji’ s firewalkers w ho walk on hot volcanic ston es unscathed

PACIFIC HARBOUR

tate

Real Es

Ph 3450034 www.resorthomesfiji.com

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Truly Local side of Fiji

In a country where the majority of tourism is foreign owned and targeted mainly at international travellers, Uprising Beach Resort in Pacific Harbour on Fiji’s main island Viti Levu is a rare anomaly. In 2007, founder Rene Munch, a Pacific Harbour local, set out to create a warm, inviting place where international travellers, expatriate residents and Fijian locals could all mingle. Seven years and numerous awards later, today Uprising is doing just that – drawing an eclectic crowd in search of authentic travel experiences.

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Pacific Harbour bills itself as the Adventure Capital of Fiji and guests staying at Uprising are well-situated to take advantage of everything the area has to offer from the high-adrenalin river kayaking and zip-lining to the more sedate but no less interesting cultural performances and village visits. The country’s actual capital Suva is only an hour away by bus and offers visitors a rare glimpse at another side of Fiji, one that is largely unaffected by tourism. Back at the resort, there’s a range of daily activities open to both guests and day visitors alike, from beach volleyball

and touch rugby to jet-ski and snorkelling safaris. For those looking to overnight, Uprising has three distinct accommodation types on offer, set within lush tropical gardens. Twelve newly built one-bedroom villas have all the creature comforts of home as well as outdoor showers that are big enough to host a small cocktail party. For an authentic Fijian experience, try the bure (thatched cottage) of which there are 11 to choose from, with garden views and beach views. The shared tree house facility is ideal for alternative travellers on a budget.

Pacific harbour

Heart and Soul Housing a restaurant and two beachfront bars, the entertainment area is the heart and soul of the resort and this is where a lot of the interaction between guests takes place, over a bowl of kava (the traditional drink of the islands) or a chilled local beer or cocktail. The restaurant’s menus feature local favourites such as kokoda (Fijian ceviche) alongside American classics (pizzas, burgers) and South East Asian cuisine (stir-fries, curries). Offering views of Beqa Lagoon (world-renowned for its coral reefs and shark diving) as well as Beqa Island (home of Fiji’s only firewalking tribe), the entertainment area is the perfect place to down a delicious pina colada, refreshing mojito or Fiji Bitter. Over the years, Uprising has hosted a number of great events including the Festival of Music, Dance and Lights (scheduled for 9 November) and the Uprising Fiji International Rugby 7s Tournament (scheduled for January 2014). These events are open to the public, allowing locals, tourists and residents the opportunity to enjoy days filled with music and sport right on the beach. If you are looking for a truly Fijian holiday experience on the beach with as much or as little activity as you like, Uprising Beach Resort offers that perfect balance. And if you’re passing through Pacific Harbour on your way to Suva or going in the opposite direction towards Nadi, the restaurant and beach bars make a great pit stop for a bite and a drink before continuing on your journey. Says resort manager Alfred Christoffersen, “Stop in or book in, to say you have experienced a truly local side of Fiji.” – Rajan Sami

+679. 345 2200 | uprisingbeachresort.com

Whitewater Rafting, Kayaking, & Sea Kayaking Adventures

P: (679) 345-0147 M: (679) 9922-148 E: info@riversfiji.com W: www.riversfiji.com P.O. Box 307, Pacific Harbour, Fiji Islands DISCOVER FIJI

THE EAST Head to the Suva Market (early while it’s still cool) to see a wide variety of fresh, tropical fruit, flowers and vegetables on sale. Learn about the country’s history at the Fiji Museum, Monday thru Saturday (fijimuseum.org.fj). Get pampered at one of Suva’s beauty spas (Beauty Mantra; Head to Toe; Jade; Pure Fiji Spa), which offer world-class treatments at affordable prices. Hike through tropical bush and cool off with a swim at the Colo-i-Suva National Park, some 20 minutes outside Suva (forestry station guide recommended). Visit Moon Reef, some 90 minutes outside Suva, to see spinner dolphins in the wild (takalana.blogspot.com). Head to Levuka on Ovalau Island, the site of Fiji’s first capital, and as of June 2013, Fiji’s first World Heritage Site.

MOVE

A Mix of Old and New Fiji’s east is home to its current capital Suva as well as its old capital Levuka (a World Heritage site on Ovalau Island). Look past Suva’s bustling exterior and you’ll find plenty of charm among its colonialera buildings. Go local by browsing the fresh fruit and vegie market; eat at one of the city’s many affordably-priced restaurants; or indulge in a treatment at one of its many beauty spas. Getting off the main island, Leleuvia in the Lomaiviti Group offers a rustic laid-back experience while Fiji’s southern most island Kadavu is known for its diving, bird-watching and fishing. Further east lies the Lau Group, a series of enchanting islands that have emerged as a new cruise destination.

KORO MAKOGAI NAIGANI OVALAU

WAKAYA

LEVUKA

NAIRAI

NATOVI MOTURIKI KOROVOU

Viti Levu

BATIKI

GAU

SUVA

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Besides department store chains Jack’s of Fiji, MHCC, Prouds and Tappoo, you’ll find souvenirs at the Handicraft Centre, resortwear, bula shirts and colourful saris at small owner-operated stores dotted around the capital. Head to the Pure Fiji factory outlet in Vatuwaqa for tropical-scented body and skincare products at a steal (Saturdays only, 10am to 1pm).

SHOP

NAUSORI

NAVUA

Suva is a veritable food mecca and the upside is its much cheaper than other, more touristy areas. Head to Daikoku for Japanese; Ashiyana or Maya Dhaba for Indian; Restaurant 88 for Chinese. For Fijian-style seafood, try Takayawa Vale ni Kana in Toorak or The Cottage on Saturdays.

EATS

The East

The east

Photos: FIJI MUSEUM (B&W); SUSAN HOGAN

Weapons of Old

Renowned for their friendliness, it’s hard to believe that Fijians were once one of the most feared people in the South Pacific. A nation of warriors, Fijians not only fought each other but they attacked outsiders and fought wars with other nearby island nations such as Tonga. Perhaps the most famous example of hostile behaviour towards strangers was the pursuit of Captain Bligh by two large war canoes in Fiji waters following the mutiny of his crew on the now infamous “HMS Bounty”. Bligh’s successful escape from these Fijian war canoes was through a passage between the islands of Viti Levu and Vanua Levu and this channel is now immortalised as Bligh Water. However, it would be wrong to paint the Fijians as exclusively warlike. Captain Door, a sandalwood trader, described the Fijians in 1808 in his first encounter with them as affording him “kind and hospitable treatment.” Wallis, the wife of an American trader, wrote: “I am surprised at the mild and affable behaviour of all these cannibals.” So, it should be noted that while the early Fijians could be friendly, they remained warlike; thus, traders had to rig nets and mount cannons to protect their ships, while missionaries sometimes slept with loaded muskets by their sides. Although the Europeans introduced swords, knives, axes and firearms to Fiji in the mid-1800s, the war club was always the Fijian weapon of choice and certainly regarded as a more noble instrument of battle. Traditional styles of clubs and other

weapons like spears were well-established by the time the first Europeans came into contact with the Fijians. These early explorers and traders took many Fijian weapons and artifacts to Europe and America. Later, missionaries took clubs back to England and New Zealand for the purpose of selling them to raise money for their missions.

Comfortable, Convenient and Excellent Value. THE HOTEL HAS 100 UNITS:

Fine Accomodation

Baka Bar

Pool Side Bar

Deluxe,Superior and Suites Standard Air Condition 10 Television Channels Tea/Coﬀee making Facilities Refrigerator ISD Telephones Swimming Pool Superior Deluxe Rooms are inclusive of Spa

FACILITIES *Licensed Restaurant *Cocktail Bar *Conference Room *Free Car Parking *Function Hall *Same day Laundry Service *Ironing Facilities *Internet Cafe

Corner of McGregor Road and Pender Street. G.P.O Box 888, Suva, Fiji Islands. Phone: (679) 331 3771 / Fax: (679) 331 4773 email: reservations@peninsula.com.fj / website: www.peninsula.com.fj

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Storekeepers in Levuka in the 1870s found they could sell native articles to Europeans and one enterprising business even opened a dedicated ‘curiosity shop’. As a result, Fijian artifacts can be found in museums and private collections in countries scattered across the globe. When retired antiques dealer, D. R. Eames bought a property in Fiji, he began to take an interest in Fijian history. He visited the Fiji Museum in Suva and became fascinated by the variety of styles and quality of craftsmanship of the weapons on display. Original war clubs and other artifacts are almost impossible to source in Fiji itself, but it didn’t take him long to find sources in other countries. Eames buys Fijian artefacts around the world and keeps his personal collection in Europe. On a recent trip to Fiji, I accompanied him to view the clubs in the Collection Storeroom of the Fiji Museum with the kind permission of Museum Director Sagale Buadromo. We first met Registrar Sela Rayawa. Eames and Rayawa discussed Fijian artifacts and examined reference books. Eames showed him photos of war clubs in his collection - some of which Rayawa recognised as rare examples. Then it was time to visit the Collection Storerooms with Library and Collections Assistant, Mereia Luvunakoro Lesi. Hundreds of clubs were racked out on wide shelving units that had been donated by the Melbourne Museum in Australia.

Lesi told me that the Fiji Museum collection of war clubs is in the region of one to two thousand. Lesi gave Eames gloves so that he could handle the clubs. He told me that many warriors made their own clubs, but those who could afford it commissioned specialist craftsmen known as matai-nimalumu. War clubs came in a variety of traditional forms with each form having a name. Certain forms - often highly decorated and impractical - were used purely for ceremonial and dance purposes. Clubs were usually carved from a single piece of hardwood using hardwood hammers, stone adzes and bivalve shell scrapers. Decorative carving was incised using sea urchin spines, shark’s teeth, or any available teeth from other large fish, fruit bats or rats. The lower end of the club handles were carved with zig-zag or wavy lines called tavatava to act as a grip and many were bound with coir sinnet (plaited coconut fibre). Natural abrasives like coral, shark skin and pumice stone were used to sand and polish them. Candlenut oil was commonly applied as a final touch. Whale tooth ivory was used to inlay clubs with crescent moons, squares, circles, stars and birds. More chilling was the practise of inlaying a tooth from a victim killed by that particular club. In any event, warriors kept a tally of their kills by cutting a notch in their club.

Eames lifted clubs from the shelves to show me handsome examples of these skilfully carved weapons and, together with Lesi, we examined the extraordinarily fine inlay work on several of them. As we looked at the two-handed war clubs, he explained that the Fijian warriors gained the most prestige if they killed with this weapon above all others. Indeed, a young man only became a true warrior after he had killed an enemy with his war club. A warrior who killed was honoured with commemorative names and titles and his club was given a commemorative name also. In some parts of Fiji new names were given in elaborate ‘heromaking’ ceremonies which could last several days. The warrior’s chosen name was prefixed by the honorary title of koroi to denote his status. Whilst the large two-handed war clubs were used in battle, they were less commonly carried for everyday purposes. Instead, the Fijian warriors routinely carried one or two throwing clubs, usually tucked into their waistband. “The throwing clubs were practical and easy to carry. They were the warriors’ most personal weapons and extremely effective,” said Eames. He picked up a throwing club to show me how well balanced it was. He explained that the throwing club could be hurled with great accuracy and effective without the need to administer the coup de grace with the two-handed war club. However, a kill made with the war club was considered more prestigious. As we prepared to leave the museum, we took a final lingering look. The formidable Fijian war clubs may have a chilling history but they are also finely crafted things of beauty and I can understand how collectors like Eames develop a passion for them. – SUSAN HOGAN

THE DEETS The Fiji Museum opens 8.30am to 4.00pm Monday to Saturday Adults FJ$7, children & students FJ$5 Tel: +679. 3315944 | fijimuseum.org.fj

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THE NORTH SAVUSAVU

Fiji’s Hidden Paradise, Savusavu is known for its dive spots, pearl cultivation and yachting facilities.

Experience beautiful Savusavu Bay aboard Chululu Cruises, which lets you swim, snorkel and picnic at a remote beach. Book via Hot Springs Hotel (hotspringsfiji.com). Fish to your heart’s content with Ika Levu Charters (fishinginfiji.com). Hike to a remote waterfall, go mountain biking or river tubing with Naveria Tours (naveriaheightsfiji.com). See how unique pastel-hued pearls are cultivated at the J. Hunter Pearls farm and splurge at their showroom afterwards. (pearlsfiji.com).

MOVE

The Laid-Back Isles The northern islands of Vanua Levu (Big Island) and Taveuni (Garden Island) are known for their leisurely pace of life. Vanua Levu is Fiji’s second largest island and is easily accessible by flight from Nadi or Suva to the main gateways of Labasa in the north and Savusavu, a tourism hotspot located at the foot of the peninsula. Fiji’s northern region also includes the smaller islands of Laucala, Qamea, Matagi, Namenalala, Nukubati and Kaibu, with a range of accommodation options.

The North LABASA

RINGGOLD ISLANDS

RABI KIOA

TAVEUNI

Fiji’s third largest island, Taveuni is world renowned for its amazing underwater habitat including the 31-km long Rainbow Reef. A nature lover’s paradise, it has unique flora and fauna and dense tropical forest, where you can enjoy pristine walks, horse riding, historical sites and bird watching. Explore Taveuni’s wild southeastern coastline, black sand beaches and beautiful forests on the Lavena Coastal Walk. Hike to the three Tavoro Waterfalls at the Bouma National Heritage Park, each is on a different altitude level. Snorkel at Wai Tabu, a marine sanctuary.

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UDU POINT

Vanua Levu

For casual fare, head to Captain’s Café at Copra Shed Marina or Captain’s Table for seafood and steaks. Savusavu Wok is fast becoming popular for Chinese. In the town centre, Joseph’s Decked Out Café serves icy cold beers and spicy fish and chips while Surf n Turf does great curries and homemade ice cream alongside seafood and steaks.

EATS

MATAGI

SAVUSAVU

LAUCALA QAMEA TAVEUNI

Opposite Matei Airport, Coconut Grove has an eclectic menu, featuring local, Asian and vegetarian meals. Dinner bookings essential (Tel: 888 0328). South of Matei, Tramonto offers pizzas and cold beer along with great views. Head to Lawrence’s in Naqara Town for delicious local curries.

EATS

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A Dream Treat yourself to a trip aboard the Tui Tai for the adventure of a lifetime. It’s a cruise ship with a difference I have just returned from an unforgettable family vacation in Fiji with my sister, my woman child and my sister’s six-year-old daughter. There is so much to love about this place. Nothing seems to bother the Fijians. They are always laughing and smiling. I admit to being a little anxious when I first saw a local man coming towards me with a machete, until I learned that they all carry them to cut down coconuts. This is a peaceful country where cases of violence are few and far between. This is why so many Westerners buy homes there. Most people live off the land as fruit and fish are plentiful. If you lose your job here, you won’t starve. Unlike the Caribbean, where the locals seemed to resent visitors, every Fijian you pass will smile warmly, wave and shout:

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“Bula!” This means “life” but it is also used as a greeting. The landscape is magnificent, lush and verdant. That’s because of the tropical (occasionally biblical) rain. Rest assured, there’s still plenty of sun. Not being the seafaring type, I wasn’t convinced the Tui Tai trip was for me, but my three travelling companions - who jumped at the chance to drop anchor and snorkel, swim and scuba dive in stunning secluded bays - assured me there’d be plenty of other things to do and enjoy. I felt no shame in staying on board to read my book in the shade of a cabana after a massage while my tribe learned the ins and outs of scuba gear. I have never felt more relaxed and content. The food is superb. The best vegetable stirfry with noodles I’ve ever tasted, fish cooked on the

grill with delicious vegetables and salads, and the impossible-to-resist desserts. Even my woman child, who claims not to like coconut, couldn’t resist the passion fruit ice-cream covered in dried coconut. And I still wake up dreaming of the chef’s lemon pudding. Meals are eaten at one long communal table. Lots of meals. Cold breakfast at 7am, hot breakfast at 9am, lunch at 1pm, tea and homemade cake at 4pm and a three-course dinner at 7pm. After all those activities, we were always ready for the next meal. Our shipmates Lisa and her niece Kerrie go on adventures around the world together every year and agreed this was their best trip ever. We have become real friends and even Facebook friends.

the North

The highlight of the trip for me was visiting the island of Rabi (pronounced Rambi), where local schoolchildren put on a breathtaking song and dance display for us. A European charity re-built two classrooms that were destroyed by Cyclone Thomas two years ago. The classroom walls were covered in better work than I’ve seen in many Western schools. One of the pupils played (brilliantly) a set of drums donated by a previous Tui Tai passenger. These kids were so happy and healthy. We have much to learn from other cultures. This culture is actually preserved and enriched by the Tui Tai, since the

operation is committed to eco-tourism. Villages share in the economic benefits; Tui Tai has funded schools, purchased medical supplies and sponsored community development projects. By taking part in this adventure, you make a contribution to raise the standard of living in the more remote islands of Fiji. See and hear for yourself what a fantastic time we had. As well as being the diving supervisor, Gemma is the Tui Tai photographer and videographer who makes personal films for every family, in case we needed to be reminded of how amazing the trip was. – CLAIRE FORDHAM Tel: +679. 999 6365 | tuitai.com

Photos: CLAIRE FORDHAM

Instructors Sam and Gemma (a Brit and an Aussie) have dived just about everywhere and insist these waters are the most incredible, with pristine coral reefs and diverse marine life. Apart from these two, the rest of the 16-strong crew are Fijians who know this part of the South Pacific better than anyone. Our diving master, Isoa, knew exactly where to find manta rays. I didn’t get into the water but I watched with excitement and wonder from the tender as we followed these strangely beautiful creatures. I didn’t jump off the side of the Tui Tai either and I was fine with that, despite everyone’s coaxing. I kayaked for the first time in my life and felt joy in my heart. I hiked up to the spectacular Bouma Falls and was so proud that I didn’t scream when we met a big blue crab en route. And I was ready in case we met a spider the size of a dinner plate, safe in the knowledge that none of the creepy crawlies here are poisonous. The great thing about this adventure is there’s something for everyone with diverse interests and adventure levels. Anyone can come on this trip and do as much (or as little) as they want and certainly more than they would have imagined. I was especially impressed how patient and accommodating the crew was with our six-year old who tried and thoroughly enjoyed all the activities (apart from the scuba diving). When she was tired, which wasn’t often, Sam took her shell collecting or pulled her along on a boogie board. Or she just lay back under a cabana and read or coloured. If you don’t like kids, you can request not to vacation at the same time as a family with children.

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Flavours of Fiji

Fijian

Kokoda Often compared to Spanish ceviche, kokoda is a perennial Fijian favourite made with fresh island ingredients: coconut milk, lime and fresh fish. And the best part about making this at home: there’s no cooking required.

FISH CURING INGREDIENTS 500gm Narrowband Spanish Mackeral (or any firm white flesh fish) 1 cup Fresh Lemon juice 1/2 tsp Sea salt COCONUT SALSA INGREDIENTS 2 cups Thick coconut cream 1 Tbsp Fresh lemon juice 1/4 cup Tomato, skin on and diced small 1/4 cup White onion, peeled and diced small 1 Tbsp Green shallots, finely diced 1/2 tsp Sea salt Fresh chillies (optional) 1. Remove skin and cut fish into small cubes, 1” square. 2. Place fish pieces into bowl with lemon juice and sea salt. 3. Cover and store marinated fish in fridge for minimum 2 hours or overnight. The clear flesh will eventually turn white. 4. When ready to serve, rinse the fish under cold water, removing the excess lemon juice. Drain and set aside. 5. Fine chop all salsa ingredients. 6. In a bowl, combine the coconut cream with 1 Tbsp lemon juice and sea salt until dissolved. Adjust seasoning to your liking. 7. Add the onions, tomato, shallot and chilli to the coconut cream mix and combine. 8. Add the cured fish to the coconut salsa and combine together. 9. Transfer to serving bowl or a coconut and garnish. 10. Refrigerate or serve immediately. SERVES 4

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Taken from Castaway Island Resort executive chef Lance Seeto’s lifestyle cookbook Coconut Bliss, which documents his life changing experience living in Fiji and learning a different way to see the world and the food we eat. lanceseeto.com