A sprinkle of temptation. A dash of indulgence. And a whole lot of savings. Savor dishes inspired by the sea all summer long during Dine Out Lauderdale. Discover unique flavors or fill up on your favorite cuisine with three-course prix fixe menus starting at $35. Explore participating restaurants now at sunny.org/lauderdeals
CONTENTS Summer | 2020
18 EAT LIKE THE STARS DO
HEARTH & HOME 2
8
islandoriginsmag.com
SANTIAGO DE CUBA
28
QUARANTINE CUISINE
20
CREDITS PUBLISHER Calibe Thompson BRAND STRATEGY & DISTRIBUTION David I. Muir BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Tamara Philippeaux EDITOR Monique McIntosh ART DIRECTOR Vladan Dojcinovic CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Rebecca Hugh Monique McIntosh Stephen Bennett Howard Campbell Ghenete ‘G’ Wright Muir Attiyya Atkins Felicity Darville Jonathan Rawson David I. Muir Calibe Thompson
4
HEALTH & BEAUTY Natural Mystic
6
STYLE & DESIGN The List: Style to Savor
TRAVEL 14 Delicious Destinations CULTURE 24 Flavor Profile 46 Rhythms of Africa INSPIRATION 26 Feeding the Masses 35 Meet Linda Julien INVEST 34 Lauderhill: Moving On Up 36 A Fertile Crop 38 Small Business Survival 40 42 43
TASTE THE ISLANDS Restaurant Review: Las Vegas Cuban Cuisine Pollo Guisado (Puerto Rican Stewed Chicken) Cuban Sandwich
44
RESTAURANT LISTING
48
FINAL THOUGHT
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Island Home Interiors Colleen Scott Ricardo Mejía, RM Studio Corp Kelly Greer Photography Jade Mountain Resort, Saint Lucia Stephen Bennett (Uncommon Caribbean) Jamaica Pegasus Hotel/Courtleigh Hospitality Group David I. Muir ON THE COVER: The Culinary Issue Succulent, spicy chicken skewers with a side of fresh veggies make a delicious appetizer for a Caribbean summertime cookout. The vibrant blue table surface conjures memories of ocean waves and clear island skies. Find homemade culinary masterpieces on our story on Quarantine Cuisine (page 20). Photo by Kolpakova Svetlana Copyright © 2020 by Island Syndicate. All rights reserved. Island Origins Magazine is published by Island Syndicate. This magazine or any portion thereof may not be reproduced or used in any manner whatsoever without the express written permission of the publisher except for the use of brief quotations in a review. For permission requests, write to the publisher, addressed “Attention: Permissions Coordinator,” at Island Syndicate, 1310 SW 2nd Ct #207, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33312. Printed in the United States of America.
Island Origins Magazine ℅ Island Syndicate 1310 SW 2nd Ct #207 Fort Lauderdale, FL 33312 417-812-5663 | islandoriginsmag.com support@islandsyndicate.com
islandoriginsmag.com
3
HEALTH & BEAUTY // NATURAL MYSTIC
NATURAL
MYSTIC WHEN IT COMES TO BEAUTY REGIMENS, YOUR CARIBBEAN GRANDMA KNOWS BEST. NEW RESEARCH HAS DISCOVERED THE POWER OF OLDSCHOOL REMEDIES, USING INGREDIENTS FOUND NATURALLY THROUGHOUT THE ISLANDS. NOW MANY CARIBBEAN COMPANIES ARE BRINGING THESE TRADITIONAL BEAUTY SECRETS TO THE 21ST CENTURY, INCORPORATING NATIVE EXTRACTS INTO THEIR PRODUCTS. FROM SKIN IRRITATION TO FINE LINES AND WRINKLES, HERE ARE A FEW OF THE NOTEWORTHY SUPERFOODS THAT CAN ALLEVIATE YOUR SKIN AND HAIR CHALLENGES, AND THE ISLAND-PROUD BRANDS THAT ARE HARVESTING THEIR NUTRIENT-RICH POWER. WRITER REBECCA HUGH PHOTOGRAPHY SUPPLIED
Black Castor Oil Coconut Oil Coconut oil is a multi-purpose ingredient that can be easily incorporated into your skincare routine. Thanks to its high concentration of fatty acids, this natural lubricant locks in moisture, protecting against dryness and irritation. Coconut oil also has antibacterial and antifungal properties, and is packed with lauric acid—a nutrient found to help combat acne and reduce inflammation. Based in Trinidad and Tobago, Cedros Bay Cosmetics have made 100 percent organic virgin coconut oil the star of the show. Taking a farm-toskin approach to beauty, they use the Caribbean-made ingredient in all their products—like their detoxifying charcoal face mask, which deeply cleanses and hydrates the skin. cgacaribbean.com
4
islandoriginsmag.com
This ingredient is extremely popular among naturalistas in the know. Extracted from castor seeds that have been roasted to boost their nutrient value, black castor oil is revered as a hair balm due to its rich emollient properties. Its multiple uses include treating irritated scalps and dandruff, while smoothing frizz and adding shine. Black castor oil also contains high doses of ricinoleic acid, which helps lock in the moisture that’s essential for overall hair health and sustained growth. For those trying to grow out their locks, try the Jamaican black castor oil products from Tropic Isle Living. While the brand is most celebrated for their organic oil, made through the traditional roasting process, they have also infused the valuable extract throughout their hair care line of shampoos, conditioners and deep treatment masks. tropicisleliving.com
Moringa Keep your skin fresh and beautiful by adding a little moringa oil to your daily regime. Extracted from the seeds of the moringa tree, moringa oil has high levels of oleic fatty acids that offer anti-bacterial and skin hydration benefits. This makes it useful for protecting the skin from dry air, pollution, and other environmental irritants. It also contains healthy doses of vitamin C, which aids in collagen production to enhance that beautiful glow. The oil is a key ingredient in the all natural moringa soap handmade by Jazzy’s All Natural Vincy Products, based in St. Vincent and the Grenadines. jazzysallnatural.com
Mango Oh delicious, sweet mango! A staple treat in any Caribbean household, every part of this tropical fruit has healing properties. Extracts from mango flesh and peel are rich in vitamins and minerals like vitamins A and C, both powerhouse antioxidants that improve skin renewal, boost collagen, even out skin tone and reduce inflammation caused by acne. Mango seed butter is a non-comedogenic moisturizer. It melts into the skin without clogging pores. This makes it an ideal balm to soothe dryness or irritation caused by rashes, insect bites and sunburns. Itiba, a skin care line from St. Croix in the U.S. Virgin Islands, has infused these extracts into their skin and hair products. Their popular mango soap, for example, features locally harvested mango pulp. itibabeauty.com
islandoriginsmag.com
5
T HE LIST STYLE TO SAVOR
BAHAMA HAND PRINTS
Bring the botanical wonder of The Bahamas to your tablescape with these hand-screened, vibrant placemats and napkins. Founded in 1966, the brand features both vintage patterns and new designs by Bahamian artists. Placemats: $16 Napkins: $16 bahamahandprints.com
LE CREUSET DUTCH OVEN
An island cookware ensemble isn’t complete without a traditional Dutch oven. This one by the premier French brand will become the crown jewel of any kitchen, especially in their classic Caribbean blue colorway. 5½ Quart: $360 Lecreuset.com
IMUSA GRANITE MORTAR AND PESTLE
MOODY CERAMICS
Teatime feels extra special when served with these delicate and playful ceramic pieces handmade in Montreal, Canada by artist Gabriela García (originally from the Dominican Republic). Prices vary Moodyceramics.com
Add a little flavor the old-fashioned way with this traditional mortar and pestle, featuring an iconic shape used for thousands of years. The non-porous granite is perfect for grinding fresh herbs and spices. $15.19 Imusausa.com
ATELIER CALLA CHEESE PLATTER
Traditional Caribbean materials like mahogany and cowhorn are transformed in this unapologetically modern cheese board and matching cheese knife by Haitian designer Christelle Chignard Paul. Each piece is handmade in her fair-trade artisan workshop. $48 Available at: ateliercalla.com
6
islandoriginsmag.com
WE ARE HERE
TO MAKE SURE YOU GET THERE
New Look • New Buses • Mobile Ticketing • Shorter Wait Times Wi-Fi • Expanded Weekday & Weekend Service BCT is growing Bigger and Better to serve the people of Broward County
Broward.org/BCT • 954-357-8400 •
HEARTH & HOME
STYLE & DESIGN // HEARTH & HOME
MOD MOMENT
Island Home Interiors • From the caffeine-fueled morning rush to big holiday dinners, a
family’s kitchen can sometimes feel like a traffic zone. So for one such space, Jamaican-born designer Joelle Ebanks combined efficiency and elegance to create a modern look. “The clients wanted a very contemporary kitchen, but one that still felt approachable,” explains Ebanks, who is based in Boca Raton. “It’s a place to spend time with their children while they’re cooking.” islandhomeinteriors.com
8
islandoriginsmag.com
PHOTOS ISLAND HOME INTERIORS
WHETHER SERVING AS A MAKESHIFT CLASSROOM FOR KIDS OR A WORK HUB FOR GROWNUPS, IT’S CLEAR THAT TODAY’S KITCHEN HAS BECOME MUCH MORE THAN JUST A PLACE TO PREPARE FOOD. AS THE HEART OF THE HOME, MODERN KITCHENS HAVE BECOME MALLEABLE SPACES AND ENDLESSLY CREATIVE PLATFORMS FOR INTERIOR DESIGNERS. TO IGNITE OUR OWN INSPIRATION, WE SPOKE WITH THREE OF OUR FAVORITE CARIBBEAN-AMERICAN DESIGNERS ABOUT THEIR MOST IMAGINATIVE KITCHEN PROJECTS. WRITER MONIQUE MCINTOSH PHOTOGRAPHY VARIOUS ▾ To achieve this modern look, fresh white cabinets in a streamlined Shaker style provided a slim profile, as well as plenty of enclosed storage. This was paired with a quartz countertop and backsplash that continued up the wall—a detail that’s as stylish as it is practical. “They did not want the standard tile backsplash with grout that’s hard to clean, especially over the cooktop area,” notes the designer. “So they loved this option, which adds a level of sophistication and simplicity.
◂ Installing a large statement island, which the designer adorned in a bright blue to punctuate the fresh white palette, became key in corralling movement throughout the space. “Everything happens at the island, from food prep, to baking, to kids’ homework,” explains Ebanks about the island’s central role in the kitchen. “Now it serves as the true hub for friends and family.”
islandoriginsmag.com
9
STYLE & DESIGN // HEARTH & HOME
GLAM REVIVAL Casa Vilora Interiors
• Interior designers often find
▴ With this in mind, “I wanted to create an ‘unkitchen’ of sorts, adding personal touches to deflect away from that built-in look and closer to a piece of furniture.” This process began with transforming the cabinetry with molding details and porcelain countertops.
10
islandoriginsmag.com
the perfect creative playground in their own personal abode. For Veronica Solomon, a Jamaican-born designer based in Katy, Texas, her builder grade kitchen provided a blank canvas where she could show how thoughtful finishes can transform the most basic bones. As a proud maximalist, “I’m a big believer that your home should feel collected, presenting the things you love,” notes Solomon. veronicasolomon.com
PHOTOS COLLEEN SCOTT
▴ Color also proved key, like a deep teal for the island base, and a moody, textured gray on the upper cabinets applied by local faux painter Jenny Weaver. Solomon also swapped out the lower cabinets for drawers to improve accessibility, while replacing the upper doors with glass “so I can have items that are special to me on display.”
◂ The designer also had fun experimenting with materials, from the chevron wooden inlay for the pantry door, to the “backsplash” statement wall of floor-to-ceiling hexagon tiles. “For me, it was a chance to push my range and show what you can do with simple details.”
islandoriginsmag.com
11
STYLE & DESIGN // HEARTH & HOME
RUSTIC REDUX
Nicole White Designs • The confident cook knows that fusing
culinary styles can lead to delicious results. The same is true in interior design, as Nicole White demonstrates in this dramatic kitchen overhaul in Miramar, Florida. The client craved “a contemporary space, but with some rustic charm,” explains the Jamaican-born designer. “So we focused on mixing elements to create that sense of warmth and comfort.” nwdinteriors.com
12
islandoriginsmag.com
PHOTOS RICARDO MEJÍA, RM STUDIO CORP
▴ More rustic moments emerge from other decorative elements like the backsplash tile, applied in a basket-weave pattern that “pays homage to that classic farmhouse style,” notes White. To inject more warmth, live edge wood is also used to create the dining area and open display shelves, which are perfect to quickly access dishes and display cherished mementos. These thoughtful details “all showcase this as a space meant for large family meals and memories.” ◂ To mingle these contrasting styles in the same space, the designer depended on a monochromatic blend of neutrals. Crisp white cabinets and quartz countertops help add a modern note. She then used a deep, warm gray to ground the central island, while adding some lightness with the bleached-out tones of the porcelain tile flooring. These hues played well with metallic accents like the industrial bar stools, the farmhouse sink and vented hood.
islandoriginsmag.com
13
TRAVEL // DELICIOUS DESTINATIONS Top Caribbean and international chefs show out in high style at the annual St. Croix Food and Wine Experience.
DELICIOUS
DESTINATIONS FROM THE DIVERSITY OF ETHNIC AND CULTURAL BACKGROUNDS IN THE CARIBBEAN ISLANDS HAS ARISEN WHAT JUST MIGHT BE THE WORLD’S MOST DYNAMIC CULINARY SCENE. IT’S ONLY NATURAL THAT FOOD AND FUN SHOULD COME TOGETHER SO BEAUTIFULLY IN THE REGION’S MANY ANNUAL CULINARY FESTIVALS. FROM THE SAVORY TO THE SWEET AND BEYOND, THERE’S A CARIBBEAN FOOD FESTIVAL TO SUIT EVERY TASTE. HERE, WE EXPLORE A FEW FAVORITES. WRITER STEPHEN BENNETT (UNCOMMON CARIBBEAN) PHOTOGRAPHY KELLY GREER PHOTOGRAPHY
14
islandoriginsmag.com
St. Croix Food and Wine Experience St. Croix has recently risen to the upper echelons of the Caribbean culinary scene. Exciting restaurants, helmed by a new generation of local and international chefs, have earned praise from the likes of Food & Wine Magazine, The New York Times,
and Saveur. The best time to visit the island to see, taste and experience it all is during the St. Croix Food and Wine Experience. Each year, for one week in mid-April, the festival encompasses a series of immersive events throughout the island. Celebrity chefs from all over the world come to exchange ideas and techniques, compete in the kitchen, and raise money for worthy local charities. Festivalgoers are invited to rub elbows with this gastronomic glitterati, especially during the Taste of St. Croix main event. This elegant showcase of the island’s best culinary offerings allows guests to sample dishes from more than 40 local restaurants, catering companies and private chefs. Live music, wine and spirits tastings, and a fabulous after party make this the social event of the year.
PHOTO JADE MOUNTAIN RESORT, SAINT LUCIA
Saint Lucia’s Jade Mountain is home to a cocoa plantation dating back to the 1700s.
Jade Mountain Discover Chocolate Festival Known as the “Helen of the West Indies,” the lush island of St Lucia is home to the Jade Mountain Discover Chocolate Festival hosted every December in the shadows of the iconic Piton Mountains. The decadent celebration is anything but typical. At various events, participants are invited to sample selections of chocolates and cocoa-infused dishes. And guests can enjoy many opportunities for sweet tooth indulgence at the popular chocolate cocktail party and wine-and-chocolate tasting sessions.
True to its name, the Jade Mountain Discover Chocolate Festival takes a more investigative approach when creating your immersive cocoa experience. Guests can explore the history and alchemy of the world’s favorite dessert on an exclusive tour through their organic Anse Mamin cocoa plantation. Here, participants can witness the full journey of chocolate—from cacao seed to truffle—amid lush, tropical farmland where the plant has been cultivated since the 1700s. Plus, attendees can try their own hand at chocolate making at the truffle workshop.
Uniquely Crucian event venues ranging from seaside resorts to private villas add extra spice.
islandoriginsmag.com
15
Le Burger Week Haiti
The Marriott Portau-Prince’s Banm Yon Lot Burger was the big winner at a recent Haiti Burger Week competition.
PHOTO JAMAICA PEGASUS HOTEL/COURTLEIGH HOSPITALITY GROUP)
When thinking of Haitian cuisine, hamburgers aren’t likely to be top of mind. Haiti’s rich culinary traditions are flavored with items like savory djon djon seasoning, red creole sauce and soup joumou. The notion of the region’s premier hamburger festival on the French Caribbean island must seem improbable—yet that’s where it is. Its capital, Port-au-Prince, has the distinction of being the sole city in the Caribbean to participate in Le Burger Week—a global culinary festival dedicated to the world’s favorite sandwich. Paris, Montreal, Toronto, and Vancouver are among the other annual Burger Week destinations, putting Haiti in great company. In early September each year, the event challenges local Haitian chefs to create ever more inventive hamburgers. And they embrace the tasty task head on. Standard fixings get a major makeover with kreyolstyle ingredients like plantain chips, roasted corn aioli, rum-caramelized bacon and peppery pikliz. Chefs also get creative with cuts, featuring locally-sourced beef, veal, turkey and even pâté. Attendees are invited to sample these festive burgers by visiting participating restaurants around Port-au-Prince and Pétion-Ville over the course of several days.
PHOTO STEPHEN BENNETT (UNCOMMON CARIBBEAN)
TRAVEL // DELICIOUS DESTINATIONS
The 2019 Taste of Jamaica awardwinning chefs from The Jamaica Pegasus Hotel.
Taste of Jamaica Culinary Competition and Expo Jerk chicken. Beef patties. Ackee and saltfish. Ting. Pickapeppa sauce. Jamaica’s culinary gifts are beloved all over the world. Foodies keen on discovering Jamaica’s latest and greatest creations will want to head down to Montego Bay in October for the annual Taste of Jamaica Culinary Competition and Expo. The event is a showcase of the very best
16
islandoriginsmag.com
in Jamaican cuisine. More than 300 chefs representing the finest restaurants and hotels across the island participate. Each submits entries in 25 different award categories with the goal of being hailed among the top chefs in the country. Expect towering show cakes, inventive rum concoctions, and a bounty of savory bites. If you love Jamaican food, there’s
no better singular place to enjoy it. In 2019, the Jamaica Pegasus Hotel in Kingston walked away with virtually all of the top awards (Chef of The Year, Pastry Chef of The Year, and Bartender of the Year)—definitely something to consider when next your travel plans take you to the island’s capital city.
Marie Woodson is the best representative you could have in Tallahassee fighting for you. She worked as a high level government executive during her 35 years of service. She has won numerous awards for her community leadership and proudly serves as a Coordinator of Hollywood Neighborhood Crime Watch. She has a record of helping people and not special interests. She will be your champion on issues including: public safety, education, job creation healthcare, senior services, public transportation, and more.
VOTE AUGUST 18, 2020 954-696-7428 MarieWoodson2020.com MarieWoodson2020@gmail.com
Make HD101 the People’s Voice by electing Marie Woodson. EXPERIENCED, EFFECTIVE, AND CARING LEADERSHIP! POLITICAL ADVERTISEMENT PAID FOR AND APPROVED BY MARIE WOODSON FOR STATE HOUSE DISTRICT 101, DEMOCRAT
FEATURE // LIKE THE STARS
EAT LIKE THE STARS DO
MUSIC AND FOOD ARE TWO OF THE CARIBBEAN’S MOST SOUGHT-AFTER EXPORTS. INTERNATIONAL CELEBRITIES LIKE BEYONCE, USHER AND LIONEL RICHIE HAVE SPOKEN ABOUT THEIR LOVE FOR CARIBBEAN FOOD. IN THIS EDITION OF ISLAND ORIGINS, SOME OF THE REGION’S MUSICAL TALENTS TALK ABOUT THE FOODS THAT EXCITE THEIR PALATES. WRITER HOWARD CAMPBELL PHOTOGRAPHY VARIOUS
CARLENE DAVIS Carlene Davis is one of Jamaica’s most versatile artists, accomplished in both secular and gospel music. Her classic hits include “Like Old Friends Do” and the yuletide anthem “Santa Claus (Do You Ever Come to The Ghetto).” In the kitchen, she loves to prepare food the oldschool way she learned from her family in rural Clarendon. • CURRENTLY CRAVING: I love escovitch snapper on the beach, and I emphasize on the beach. The aroma of fish roasting and frying fills the air. With a little scotch bonnet, onions and vinegar, it just tastes better when we’re lazing in the shade. • FAVORITE CARIBBEAN DISH TO COOK AT HOME: I love freshly picked ackee, with or without saltfish. My grandmother taught me how to prepare it with saltfish, and I’ve taught my children and my husband how to prepare ackee vegetarian style with bok choy.
18
islandoriginsmag.com
• GO-TO CARIBBEAN SPOT: In this season of physical distancing, a quick pickup spot for lunch is Ziggy’s Restaurant in Kingston, or takeout from Island Grill. When I’m on tour, The Door Restaurant in New York is a great place for a sit down meal. For takeout I head to Golden Krust. • YOUR CARIBBEAN ESSENTIALS: I like to go to wherever there is a farmer’s market, where I can get fresh farm produce like fruits, vegetables, and ground provisions. We’re also lucky to get stuff straight from our own family farm. • ONE DISH EVERY VISITOR SHOULD TRY: One dish everyone should try is a leg of roasted Jamaican-bred goat or mutton. The meat is sweet and tasty, and served best with gungo peas and rice. For a drink, they should try some homemade sorrel. And, of course, Twyman’s Old Tavern Blue Mountain Coffee is the best ever.
J. PERRY
Haitian pop music powerhouse Jonathan Perry, known to his fans as J. Perry, first broke onto the music scene with his infectious carnival tune “Dekole”, which was chosen as the theme song for the 2012 Haitian Carnival. Music is in his bones, but he also knows a thing or two about delicious food. • CURRENTLY CRAVING: My favorite meal would definitely be pork griot and bannann peze [fried plantains]. My favorite appetizer is by far accra fritters. And I really miss my grandmother’s lambi. She used to make this bomb lambi an sòs [conch stew]. The whole family still craves it. • FAVORITE CARIBBEAN DISH TO COOK AT HOME: I’m still learning. But I do know how to
make a decent pot of rice and beans. • GO-TO CARIBBEAN SPOT: I really enjoy going to Quartier Latin Restaurant in Pétion-Ville, Portau-Prince. Since my grandmother passed away, I go there to satisfy my cravings for lambi an sòs. They don’t make it as well as her, of course, but it’s a good substitute. • YOUR CARIBBEAN ESSENTIALS: On tour, it’s pretty much freestyle. I mainly stick to fresh fruits. Anything easy that’s high energy for when I need a boost. • ONE DISH EVERY VISITOR SHOULD TRY: Soup joumou is a really popular Haitian dish. But I would also say you need to try touffe legume with some white rice. That dish is all about the vegetables and the sauce. It’s delicious.
PADRINO Born in Nassau, The Bahamas, singer, rapper and producer Padrino (real name Rory Bowe) has worked with acts like Jah Cure and Popcaan. The South Florida resident and son of a fisherman favors seafood and considers himself a competent cook, spending time in the kitchen whenever he’s not in the recording studio. • CURRENTLY CRAVING: I’m craving pepper shrimp, or even steamed snapper right now. Eating fish always reminds me of home. I have so many memories going out on the water with my father, who was a boat captain and spear fisherman. I’ve got the best fresh seafood hookups in South Florida. During quarantine, I ate like there was no pandemic. • FAVORITE CARIBBEAN DISH TO COOK AT HOME: I love cooking curry at home. I’d curry an apple if I could! I learned to make a good curry from many years watching my grandmother, aunts and cousins. I usually post my cooking on my Instagram
NADINE SUTHERLAND page, which has a nice little following of food fans. • GO-TO CARIBBEAN SPOT: I cook a lot at home actually. But if I go out for Caribbean food, I’ll head to Coconuts in South Florida. The one Caribbean essential I need to have on tour is a hot patty. Bury me with one when I die, please. • YOUR CARIBBEAN ESSENTIALS: In South Florida, Bravo Supermarket has been a go-to place for key ingredients. I typically stock up on scotch bonnet peppers, fresh snapper, shrimp, conch, lobsters, plantains, fresh coconut, okra, thyme, ginger, cassava, and lots of fresh herbs and spices. • ONE DISH EVERY VISITOR SHOULD TRY: Hands down the one dish everyone should try when visiting The Bahamas is boiled grouper, aka boil fish, with johnny cake. Period! It’s a clear fish and lime broth with chunks of fleshy grouper and potatoes, seasoned with allspice and fresh goat pepper. Our johnny cake is more like a sweet cake and bread combo. It’s the best hangover remedy.
Jamaican singer Nadine Sutherland has been winning the hearts of music fans since she launched to fame in 1979, when she won a popular talent contest in Jamaica at age 11. Since then, she has enjoyed a prolific career, with Billboard hits like “Action” and “Anything for You.” She is big into Jamaican cuisine, whether traditional or vegan. • CURRENTLY CRAVING: I love curry goat cooked on a wood fire. Watching goat being cooked in an oil pan over a wood fire is also one of my earliest, most vivid memories of Jamaican country life. • FAVORITE CARIBBEAN DISH TO COOK AT HOME: I love cooking rice and peas. I don’t think I was taught directly. I just watched my mother and other elders cook it over the years. I picked up the basics from them, and then over time I added my own touch. Now I’ll teach anyone who wants to learn. My rice
and peas are a family favorite whenever we gather, especially at Christmas. • GO-TO CARIBBEAN SPOT: My favorite go-to place for Caribbean vegan food in Kingston is the Cheffing Don. For meals that include meat, I go to Sonia’s Homestyle Cooking, Triple T’z, or Jojo’s Jerk Pit. One of my essential stops when I’m on tour in South Florida is the Treelion Vegetarian Restaurant in Miami. The food is plant-based, organic and very delicious. • YOUR CARIBBEAN ESSENTIALS: I usually stock up on natural seasonings, seasonal fruits and vegetables. • ONE DISH EVERY VISITOR SHOULD TRY: They should try our Jamaican curry goat with rice and peas and fried plantain. It’s simply delicious when cooked properly. If you get goat meat that is soft and succulent, and cooked with the right curry, you’ll experience gastronomical heaven.
Continued on page 41 >
Marie Flore Lindor-Latortue for Miami Dade School Board | District 7
MAKE EDUCATION FIRST Election Day: August 18, 2020
www.electmarieflore2020.com | electdrflore2020@gmail.com | 305-908-2428 POLITICAL ADVERTISEMENT PAID FOR AND APPROVED BY MARIE FLORE LINDOR-LATORTUE FOR MIAMI DADE SCHOOL BOARD DISTRICT 7, NON-PARTISAN
FEATURE // QUARANTINE CUISINE
QUARANTINE
CUISINE
WRITER GHENETE “G” WRIGHT MUIR PHOTOGRAPHY DAVID I. MUIR
NO THANKS TO COVID-19, WE’VE ALL BEEN RELEGATED TO SIMPLY DAYDREAMING ABOUT THE BLISSFUL JOYS OF THE DIVINE DISHES WE ENJOYED JUST A FEW SHORT MONTHS AGO, FROM OUR FAVORITE EATERIES. IN FIGURING OUT WAYS TO COPE WITH THE UNCERTAINTY WE NOW FACE, MANY OF US HAVE TURNED INWARD—INTO OUR HOMES THAT IS— TO SEEK REFUGE IN OUR KITCHENS. AS A RESULT, OUR CREATIVITY HAS BEGUN TO SHINE. My 23-year-old son, Masai, has come up with some interesting baking concoctions, including a new cornbread recipe that incorporates our stash of M&M’s. The surprisingly delicious combination doesn’t quite qualify as traditional Caribbean cuisine, but it does speak to our ingenuity and resourcefulness. I noticed these qualities in many of the snapshots of their culinary feats my friends are proudly sharing on social media. I also noticed some pretty consistent trends.
20
islandoriginsmag.com
“I TOOK A LONG HIATUS FROM COOKING, SO IT’S BEEN YEARS SINCE I DID ANY SERIOUS COOKING UNTIL THE CORONAVIRUS OUTBREAK.” SECOND GENERATION BAHAMIAN-AMERICAN CATHLEEN DEAN
Caribbean medley mango juice by Janet Young
Vegan oxtail by Cesca Veo, artist
Baked apple pie by Cathleen Dean
THANK YOU AUNTY ENID Diving back into the kitchen, families have been tapping into wellthumbed cookbooks for inspiration. It seems the 1993 recipe book, “The Real Taste of Jamaica,” by Enid Donaldson remains a beloved resource. Second-generation Bahamian-American Cathleen Dean turned to the classic book to jumpstart her kitchen. As a young mom, “I felt like a short order cook, making what my son wanted,” Dean recalls. “I took a long hiatus from cooking, so it’s been years since I did any serious cooking until the Coronavirus outbreak.” Dean finally cracked open her copy to try Donaldson’s banana bread recipe. Featuring a dash of cinnamon, “It’s now our staple banana bread, and there’s been many loads of banana bread over the last couple months.” Jamaican Bridgette Miller Taylor and her family are so fond of the book that they consider themselves on a first-name basis with the famous author. “Aunty Enid’s cookbook is on regular rotation during lockdown,” she
Trini-style roast pork and stir fry by Kristina Headley @CookUpWithKristina
shares. “We have indeed been getting kitchen creative.” Inspired by her, they have also started making more traditional dishes like Saturday soup, where Bridgette does most of the preparation, while her husband Hans is on yam and dumpling duty. The couple finds fun bringing their own spin to the old-school dish. “We argue about the correct ingredients, because our respective families did it differently when we were young,” she says. “The final result is a blend of both.” In addition, “there is a lot of stress baking happening, with all of the cakes and muffins and things with fruit and whatnot,” says Taylor. This however has provided precious opportunities to engage the kids in the cooking process, which they have embraced head on. “The firstborn is making pasta from scratch, and there’s sourdough starter all over the place. Because the girls don’t eat meat, there are all sorts of interesting vegetarian meals happening. And our son is also learning the basics, and ruining a few pans along the way, to be sure. It’s been great fun all around.”
Buss up shut by Leslie Johnson
Geera pork by Kristina Headley @CookUpWithKristina
ROTI CHRONICLES Spending more time at home, many cooks have gotten to work mastering their favorite dish. Melissa Goolsarran Ramnauth, a proud half Guyanese and half Trinidadian, has been reaping the rewards of her mum’s recent roti experimentation. Though mom had been making various types of roti for 50 years, she “started watching YouTube videos and experimenting with her long standing recipes,” says Melissa. Inspired by YouTubers like Trinidad’s “Cooking with Natasha,” mom began adding some butter to her own paratha roti (also known as buss up shut), and it came out softer. For bake roti, she added sugar,
which made it sweeter and fluffier, and she used the same new bake recipe to make aloo pie. Trinidadian Shelley-Anne Glasgow-Wilson had never cooked paratha roti in her life before the COVID-19 outbreak. Since the lockdown, though, she’s made it three times. “YouTube has become my friend,” she says, sending special props to Trinidadian channel “Cooking with Ria.” Making all this roti during food shortages, however, was tricky. “I had to bulk buy flour because it was sold out in the supermarket. Now I have 25 pounds of flour to use, and I will be the size of this house by the time I leave it.”
islandoriginsmag.com
21
FEATURE // QUARANTINE CUISINE
THE MOTHER OF INVENTION
Marley’s first pizza with homemade tomato sauce and freshly grated mozzarella cheese.
These food shortages have also prompted other cooks to look at their pantries and refrigerators in a different lens, trying out familiar staples in new ways. My brother Rich says he seasoned his stir-fry sesame steak “with some instant ginger tea, which turned out so tasty.” Fellow Jamaican Suzanne Morrison-Williams has been watching a great deal of Food Network, where she discovered the famous tostones burgers from Pincho Factory, a craft burger chain based in South Florida. It inspired her to swap out the buns for some freshly fried plantains when the family made burgers. For Kenya Campbell, just entering her kitchen on a regular basis is an adventure in itself. “I normally don’t like cooking,” says Kenya, a self-confessed UberEats aficionado. “It’s not my forte. The purchasing of the food, the preparing of the food, and the clean up afterwards. I don’t like the process.” “But life changed in the pandemic, and I now have more time because I’m working from home.” Kenya first explored by making jerk chicken, calling up her Jamaican mom for a recipe. She also went on to make a jerk chicken pasta from the leftovers, and loved the result. “I’ve actually discovered that I can defend myself in the kitchen, and I didn’t know that before. This has definitely shown me that I can take care of myself.”
PHOTOS BY INSTA-CHEFS
Avocado salad by Janet Young
Steamed snapper with water crackers by Janet Young
Roasted sweet potatoes sprinkled with cinnamon, drizzled with honey and garnished with sweet red pepper by Janet Young
Sticky salmon by Kristina Headley @CookUpWithKristina
22
islandoriginsmag.com
Spiced guava jerk wings by Kristina Headley @CookUpWithKristina
Ackee and saltfish with green bananas and fried plantain by Cesca Veo, artist
Brunch beignets with fresh mozzarella and tomatoes, smoked salmon with onions and capers, fried bacon, strawberries and solomon gundy by Shelly-Ann Buchanan
Sweet & sour salmon garnished with yellow sweet pepper, onion and tomato by Janet Young
Jerk salmon by Lavern Deer, candidate for Miami Gardens Mayor
Pineapple upside down bundt cake by Michelle Jacob
CULTURE // FLAVOR PROFILE
FLAVOR PROFILE WRITER ATTIYYA ATKINS PHOTOGRAPHY SUPPLIED
IN THE CARIBBEAN, A PLATE OF TRADITIONAL HOMECOOKED FOOD CAN TEACH VOLUMES, MORE THAN ANY HISTORY BOOK. Caribbean cuisine emerged from a confluence of cultural influences, and centuries of global trading. West Africans brought callaloo, okra, and ackee to complement the tomatoes, potatoes, corn, and beans cultivated by indigenous civilizations across the Americas. Colonial powers brought meats like beef, pork and chicken, plus
staples like oranges, garlic and onions. They say too many cooks spoil the broth, but it’s clear our food traditions wouldn’t be the same today without this legacy. Exploring the past and present through the essential flavors and ingredients of Caribbean eats is a delicious way to learn more about the region.
SWEET: Coconut Picture a breathtaking Caribbean coastal vista, and odds are a coconut tree will be part of that scenic view. The tree, however, is equally treasured for its gastronomic bounty. When young, the fruit has a soft, gelatinous flesh and is full of refreshing water packed with electrolytes. When the coconut has aged and dried, the flesh becomes hard. Caribbean foodies take pride in using coconuts at every stage of maturity. But it is perhaps most beloved for its sweet applications. Made from the grated dried flesh, coconut milk adds dairy-free creaminess to desserts like blancmange, a lush custard particularly popular in Haiti. It’s also an essential ingredient in drinks like Puerto Rico’s piña colada. When dried and shredded, the meat of the coconut infuses a nutty sweetness to other traditional delights like Jamaican gizzadas, tarts filled with a spiced, sticky coconut filling. And it is an essential ingredient in Bajan conkies, a popular savory dessert steamed in banana leaves. Once made to commemorate the old British colonial celebration of Guy Fawkes Day on November 5, the treat is now popular during the island’s independence celebrations on November 30. Native to Indonesia, coconuts stand out among common island ingredients for their reputed unique arrival to the region. Scientists believe coconuts came to the Caribbean by riding ocean currents hundreds of years ago.
SOUR: Tamarind The most vivid flavor characteristic of the tamarind fruit is its sharp tartness. Indigenous to Africa’s tropical belt, it was introduced to the Caribbean by the Spaniards and Portugese some time in the 16th century. Massive tamarind trees now dot landscapes across the region, and have attracted a mystique of their own. In the U.S. Virgin Islands, folk tales advise locals to not sleep under their branches. The trees are believed to be haunted, so you shouldn’t sit under their shade after sunset lest spirits follow you home. These superstitions haven’t stopped cooks from harvesting the fruit’s culinary potential. Encased in a hard and brittle shell shaped like a bean, the flesh of the fruit adds welcome complexity to both sweet and savory dishes. Due to its high acidity, tamarind is a great tenderizing marinade for chicken, beef and pork. The pulp of the pod is an essential, tangy addition to many popular Caribbean sauces, salsas and chutneys, and the British adopted it as a key ingredient for their Worcestershire Sauce. To create tamarind balls, a tart candy with an intense combination of sour and sweet flavors, beloved by Caribbean children, the tamarind fruit is rolled into balls and tossed in sugar crystals.
24
islandoriginsmag.com
SALTY: Salted Fish For a boost of protein and flavor, Caribbean cooks have long turned to humble salted fish to create some of the region’s most iconic dishes. Think Trinidadian buljol, St Lucian green fig salad, and Jamaica’s national dish, ackee and saltfish. Salt naturally draws out moisture from meats, making them resistant to mold and bacteria. To “salt cure,” fish would be coated in salt for days, and then hung to dry with the help of the wind and the sun. This process dramatically increased its shelf-life, while imparting an intense salty flavor. For centuries, fishermen around the world have used salt curing methods to preserve their fresh catch. The ingredient became a staple when it was brought to the region through the Triangular Slave Trade between Europe, West Africa and the Americas. Vessels from Canada in particular would supply salted cod, a fish plentiful off that country’s coast. Plantations relied on the then cheap source of protein as a staple provision for their enslaved populations. It remains an important part of the Caribbean diet. Today, due to cod’s growing scarcity, other types of white fish like pollock and snapper are used instead.
SPICY: Scotch Bonnet Of all the chili peppers spicing up island meals, scotch bonnet remains the king of heat in Caribbean cuisine. The popular pepper is used in a variety of Caribbean dishes, adding searing spice to jerk chicken and a low key kick to everyday rice and peas. And this little nugget packs a punch as one of the hottest chili peppers in the world, up to 140 times spicier than a jalapeno. Available in shades of green, yellow, orange and red, scotch bonnet can be finely minced for maximum heat, or it can be added whole for a gentle sizzle. The name is derived from a Scotsman’s bonnet (also known as tam o’shanter hat) because of its distinctive squashed appearance. The origin of the scotch bonnet is not well known, but most historians trace its roots to varieties from Central and South America, and it is closely related to the habanero variety. Commercially, Jamaica has emerged as the leading exporter of scotch bonnet pepper mash, which is used in hot sauces around the world. Other, less popular Caribbean chilies with five-alarm fieriness include Trinidad and Tobago’s vibrant red Scorpion Butch T Pepper, and the 7 Pot Douglah known for its chocolate brown coloring.
islandoriginsmag.com
25
INSPIRATION // FEEDING THE MASSES
FEEDING
THE MASSES
WRITER FELICITY DARVILLE
THERE’S NOTHING QUITE LIKE HAVING THE RIGHT INGREDIENTS TO BRING A DISH TO LIFE. AUTHENTIC CARIBBEAN FOOD PRODUCTS OFFER THAT GENUINE TASTE OF THE ISLANDS AND THE TYPE OF COMFORT THAT CAN “TAKE YOU BACK HOME.” This feels true now more than ever, as the world continues to reel from the COVID-19 pandemic. Through the proverbial storm, top Caribbean brands are holding strong, providing the products buyers know and love. Behind each company, however, is an intricate network of manufacturing,
GRACEKENNEDY FOODS Since its founding in 1922, a sense of solidarity has been part of the culture at GraceKennedy, a Jamaican brand. For nearly a century, they have manufactured and distributed a range of packaged staples and Caribbean specialities. “For Caribbean people, rallying around the family is an important thing, especially at a time like this,” says GraceKennedy Foods USA (Grace Foods) President Derrick Reckord. For many of their employees, “this is a relationship built on assurance and caring, and we don’t take that for granted.” The company has been able to retain its staff throughout the COVID-19 pandemic, and is even hiring for new positions at its U.S. offices in the merchandising and warehouse departments. With restaurants and hotels in go-slow mode, however, demand for their bulk supplies has decreased. Luckily, retail sales have compensated for this loss, with more consumers buying products and eating three meals a day at home. On the manufacturing side, a business continuity plan has allowed Grace Foods to respond quickly to protect their employees. They are provided with personal protective equipment, and are assigned flexible schedules, with varying hours for merchandising. For administration needs, technology has become a lifesaver. Grace Foods staff members now meet through video-conferencing, while sales reps keep in touch with their clients by phone and email. To boost morale, the company also hosts internal live entertainment sessions via Zoom “where we get to see each other’s family,” says Reckord. “It brings us all together.”
supply and distribution teams that must be kept safe while they work to maintain service to their consumers. Here, we learn some views on the role of corporate responsibility during a crisis, and how Caribbean companies support the people they employ.
MADAME GOUGOUSSE Creativity is the current motto at Madame Gougousse, a packaged food company offering ready-to-eat products and ingredients for a primarily Haitian audience. As a brand, helping the communities they serve to maintain a sense of normalcy felt like a higher calling. “We felt as a company that we were an important part of the supply chain,” says Christopher Hyppolite, the social media specialist for Madame Gougousse. The company has also depended on technology, using video conferencing for internal communication, while expanding their e-sales platform to reach more consumers online. And they have executed all CDC recommendations for manufacturing, outfitting staff on the field and in the warehouse with suggested protective gear. Throughout the disruption, Hyppolite says the company has learned as a business to be nimble, to appreciate their employees, and to “always save for a rainy day.” “The impact on our business has been negative because of the need for social distancing, but positive because it has taught us better how to adapt to situations,” he says. “Our employees acted admirably and with no fear in light of the uncertain situation.”
BADIA SPICES Employees rose to the occasion at Badia Spices, a manufacturer of seasonings, canned foods and dry goods based in Doral, Florida. It was first established in 1967 by Cuban immigrant José Badía and is now run by his son ‘Pepe.’ The company’s current 450 employees are “healthy and working normally” through COVID-19, according to Marvin Saldana, export sales manager. Despite the challenging situation, the staff has adapted to their new social distancing protocols and are working in smaller groups every shift. They also have regular tests and temperature checkups. “We are blessed, as we are one of the few companies without any negative impact by the pandemic,” he said. “Our sales are at an all time high in retail domestically and for export. All our associates are working normal hours without any risk of financial insecurity.” Challenging times like these have only reinforced the kindred spirit at the company, which still retains the peoplecentric core of its founder. “Our human resources are our best asset,” says Saldana. “We have a magnificent group of people working as a team.”
SUPPORTING THESE BRANDS SEEMS TO HAVE A RECIPROCATING EFFECT, OFFERING A WIN-WIN FOR THE COMPANIES WE WANT TO KEEP OPEN, AND THE FAMILIES WE WANT TO KEEP BRINGING TOGETHER IN THE WAY ONLY ISLAND PEOPLE CAN. islandoriginsmag.com
27
FEATURE // PHOTO REVIEW
SANTIAGO DE CUBA PHOTOGRAPHER DAVID I. MUIR
ON A RECENT TRIP TO SANTIAGO, CUBA, PHOTOGRAPHER DAVID I. MUIR CAPTURED IMAGES OF THE PEOPLE AND LANDMARKS THAT GIVE CHARACTER TO THIS COUNTRY.
“El Titán de Bronce” was created by artist Alberto Lescay to honor Antonio Maceo Grajales, general of the Cuban War of Independence. The stunning monument towers over Plaza de la Revolución (Monumental Complex).
At Casa de La Trova, top musicians supported by the government entertain locals and guests on an ad hoc basis. The walls are lined with images of past performers.
28
islandoriginsmag.com
JosĂŠ Antonio Saco, called ‘Enramada’ by locals, is the major thoroughfare in Santiago, running between the ocean and the Plaza de Marte park. The pedestrian street is home to stores, restaurants and other major places of commerce.
islandoriginsmag.com
29
FEATURE // PHOTO REVIEW
The African-influenced music and dance of Cuba’s rumba is enjoyed daily on the streets. Popular musicians Milian Gali Riveri (center), Éinar “Tito” Leliebre Nuñez (left), Bladys Pujols Boubaire (right) are caught up in the music.
30
islandoriginsmag.com
Soldiers during changing of the guard at Santa Ifigenia Cemetery where the remains of revolutionary philosopher José Martí rest in a mausoleum, and controversial president Fidel Castro’s ashes are buried.
While some elements of Cuban carnival reflect the typical revelry of the occasion, here’s a day when the elder comparsas wear old world clothing in celebration of the island’s history.
islandoriginsmag.com
31
FEATURE // PHOTO REVIEW
Horse and buggy, a local mode of transport when you don’t have a car.
32
islandoriginsmag.com
Considering Refinancing Your Home?
are Here for You!
If you’re looking to lower your payments or even shorten your loan term, we can help with low fixed rate loans. • Refinance options include 15, 20 and 30-Year Fixed Mortgages • NO Intangible Taxes CALL: 954-745-2400, Option 4 or LEARN MORE: WeFloridaFinancial.com/refi
Federally insured by NCUA
RT
H M I A MI EA
O
B
CH, FL . 19 CA E P EOPLE
Est
26
R
RT
H M I A MI B
EA
O
CH, FL
W
H
ER
R
E
ER
C I T Y OF N
W
H
E
C I T Y OF N
We Florida Financial membership is required. Membership is open to individuals and businesses in 46 Florida counties. For more information, prospective members can visit our website or call us at 954-745-2400 or 800-230-0200. Minimum balance required to open a savings account is $5. Members must maintain a savings account with a minimum of $5 for the duration of their membership.
. 19 CA E P EOPLE
Est
26
EA
E
CH, FL
www.my2020census.gov
LAUDERHILL MOVING ON UP THE MOST TRAVELED GATEWAY TO THE CITY OF LAUDERHILL IS ABOUT TO GET A MAJOR FACELIFT. INITIATIVES INCLUDING THE COMMERCIAL FACADE GRANT PROGRAM (CFG) AND THE BUSINESS IMPROVEMENT DISTRICT ARE BREATHING NEW LIFE INTO THE CITY’S CULTURAL, DINING AND SHOPPING HUB. AS A RESULT, CIVIC PRIDE AND THE STRENGTH OF THE LOCAL BUSINESS COMMUNITY ARE ON THE RISE. At the forefront of their roster of projects is Lauderhill’s 38th Avenue Right-of-Way Improvement, a $4,000,000 undertaking. The project zone is located off State Road 7—the city’s main north-south thoroughfare—between 19th and 16th St. Once realized, it will become home to a number of dine-in restaurants, fashion boutiques, comedy clubs and more. To complete the arts and entertainment district, and to create a fully immersive entertainment experience, Lauderhill plans to eventually con-
34
islandoriginsmag.com
nect this corridor to the Lauderhill Performing Arts Center (LPAC) and the Central Broward Regional Park, home of the only International Cricket Council (ICC) Stadium in North America. With construction scheduled for completion in early 2021, the city has been actively showcasing the new developments coming to the area. Their goal is to attract prospective business owners, new residents and visitors. They also hope to enrich the sense of belonging and camaraderie in the corridor, presenting a con-
sistent series of events for the community to enjoy. A 320 unit apartment complex on 38th Avenue is already in development. With a full array of luxury amenities, these beautiful residential buildings called LePARC will complement the district, becoming home to working professionals and providing a pedestrian-friendly area where residents can enjoy the perks of the live/ work lifestyle. Learn more at lauderhill.gov.
MEET
LINDA JULIEN WRITER FELICITY DARVILLE
POLITICAL ADVERTISEMENT PAID FOR AND APPROVED BY LINDA JULIEN FOR CITY OF MIAMI GARDENS COUNCIL SEAT 5, NON-PARTISAN
SPONSORED EDITORIAL
LINDA JULIEN GREW UP IN MIAMI, FLORIDA. HER PARENTS IMMIGRATED FROM HAITI AND EACH WORKED TWO JOBS TO PUT HER AND HER BROTHER THROUGH PRIVATE SCHOOL AND THEN COLLEGE. Now a Miami Gardens resident and homeowner, Linda Julien is running for City Council, Seat 5. For her, it’s a step toward ensuring she is a voice for all Miami Gardens residents. “Miami Gardens is a gem, a beautiful city, 17 years-old… we celebrated in May,” she said. “I’m excited to bring new energy and experienced leadership to the dais.” Her priorities while in office will include economic development, public safety, and diverse programs for the youth. She’ll offer support to small and medium-sized businesses, and will create opportunities for new businesses to thrive. In fact, during the pandemic Julien was able to help one small business find the funding support that kept its doors open. To address public safety, another issue of concern, she’ll push for greater collaboration between community police and local residents. More programs will be geared toward senior citizens, keeping them active and healthy. And for the youth of the city, programs such as college readiness and workforce development are some of the first initiatives she will implement once elected. Julien has a Master’s in Public Administration, has nearly a decade of experience in that field, and is currently serving as the Economic Development Manager for North Miami, with a focus on procurement. “I’m living the American dream,” Julien reflects. “Service to my community is how I am paying forward the sacrifices my parents made for me.”
INVEST // A FERTILE CROP
A FERTILE
CROP WRITER ATTIYYA ATKINS
TAKE A TRIP TO ANY LOCAL SUPERMARKET AND YOU’RE LIKELY TO ENCOUNTER A LITTLE PIECE OF THE CARIBBEAN. THE GROCERY AISLE IS FILLED WITH PRODUCTS FROM THE ISLANDS’ FERTILE SOIL. A NEW GENERATION OF AGRIBUSINESSES IS SEEKING TO TRANSFORM THE HISTORICALLY TURBULENT RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN THE CARIBBEAN’S LANDS AND ITS PEOPLE, ADOPTING ETHICAL FAIR TRADE AND ECO-FRIENDLY PRACTICES. MEET THE BUSINESSES THAT ARE MODERNIZING HERITAGE CROPS IN A WAY THAT HONORS THE PAST AND PRESERVES THE LAND FOR FUTURE GENERATIONS.
SWEET WORK: Agapey Chocolate Factory, Barbados
Despite the region’s rich history of cocoa cultivation, the typical chocolate bar in the Caribbean is most likely imported. Bringing homegrown chocolate back to the Caribbean is the dream behind Agapey
36
islandoriginsmag.com
Chocolate Factory—the brainchild of husband-and-wife business partners Derrick Hastick and Jidan Kong. Based in Bridgetown, Barbados, the chocolatiers aim “to develop a strong international presence in the premium artisan market,” says Hastick. Using regionally grown criollo, nacional and trinitario varieties, “we source directly from cocoa associations where the government ensures fair trade for their farmers,” explains Kong. They combine
these beans with locally grown Barbadian Plantation Reserve gold cane sugar. The company also collaborated with local Mount Gay Rum for their popular rum-infused line. “Our ingredients are wholesome and pure. No chemicals, not even soy lecithin,” notes Kong. “Being in the hub of the Caribbean, we are able to source some of the best cocoa beans in the world.” Even their manufacturing process honors the ingredients, using traditional machines to preserve
more authentic flavor. “We also offer limited interactive educational tours with lots of tastings at a low cost for all to enjoy” says Kong. The brand mainly distributes in Barbados, but also sells online through premium third-party vendors for the U.S. market. In addition, they are focused on expanding their product lines, including goodies like their new dairy-free ice cream. “We’ll be pushing hard to find other international customers,” says Hastick.
SPIRIT OF THE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC: Ron Barceló Rum stands above all as the Caribbean’s libation of choice, but producing the spirit comes at a major environmental cost. Now, prestige brand Ron Barceló from the Dominican Republic is leading the industry’s environmental evolution. It’s the first rum producer in the world to achieve 100 percent carbon neutral status, certified by SGS, a global inspection company tracking greenhouse gas emissions. As the second largest exporter of dark rum in the world, “we wanted to show it’s possible
to do fine rum while caring about our environment in the more than 80 markets [where] we’re present,” says brand ambassador Otto Flores. The key to their success lies in “managing greenhouse gas emissions from the production process,” explains Flores. “Distillation is the main contributor to a rum’s carbon footprint, accounting for more than a third of its emissions, largely because in addition to the energy required to power the process, distillation also
creates a lot of waste in many forms.” The company approaches this challenge by recycling waste, treating and reusing water, employing residue cane pulp as fuel, and applying vinasse (an organic byproduct) as fertilizer. They also sell the carbon dioxide emitted in their fermentation process to soda companies. To offset unavoidable carbon dioxide emissions, the company also acquired emission reduction certificates to financially support green projects like reforestation.
A WAKE UP CALL: Caribbrew, Haiti Fellowship and commerce run deep at Caribbrew, the organic Haitian coffee brand founded by Beverly Malbranche. She started the company as a way to connect to her Haitian culture when she moved to the U.S. Since then it has evolved into a unique business committed to empowering communities. “I wanted to find a product that consumers want and could help my home country,” says Malbranche about the company based in Newark, New Jersey. The brand works closely with a cooperative of family-owned farms in Thiotte, Haiti—a small commune known for their agricultural bounty. There, “the high mountains provide good space for Arabica coffee beans,” notes Malbranche. In addi-
tion to securing fair trade rates for these farmers, the company also provides technical assistance and a revolving no-interest loan fund to boost and streamline their production for the future. “Increasing efficiency is key to make Haitian coffee a competitor on a global scale,” she explains. Caribbrew has also made it a priority to engage the next generation, employing younger members of the community to manage packaging and shipment. “We’re very proud of the young folks we work with, as even when Haiti was locked down for three months due to daily protests, they found a way to get the product to us.” says Malbranche. “They are the people we need to move the country forward.”
islandoriginsmag.com
37
INVEST // SMALL BUSINESS SURVIVAL
SMALL BUSINESS
SURVIVAL WRITER JONATHAN RAWSON PHOTOGRAPHY VARIOUS
IN SOUTH FLORIDA, FOR MANY CARIBBEAN CHEFS AND RESTAURATEURS, SERVING ISLAND CUISINE IS BOTH THEIR LIFE’S PASSION AND THEIR MAIN MONEY-MAKER. But their daily grinds came to a screeching halt at the onset of the COVID-19 outbreak. Not only did the quarantine completely shut down the local restaurant industry, it shut it down during the height of the busy season. Though restaurants and events are slowly emerging
38
islandoriginsmag.com
from a forced hiatus, much remains uncertain for proprietors as they navigate new health concerns to protect their customers. In addition, all restaurants in South Florida are still capped at 50 percent capacity by local ordinances.
So what does going out for Caribbean food look like now, in the age of social distancing? We talked to some chefs and business owners in the area about how the pandemic has affected them personally, and the uncertainty they see going forward.
Butter Flakes Bakery & Grill Harry Sinclair, the owner of Butter Flakes Bakery & Grill in Tamarac, honed his culinary chops in the jerk pits of Montego Bay, Jamaica. After moving to Queens, New York, in 1979, he owned and operated a successful Jamaican restaurant for 12 years. In 1999 he moved to Florida and, he says, “opened the first Jamaican restaurant in Coral Springs.” Since then, business has been booming. “We could barely keep up with traffic in and out of the store every night.” Of course, Butter Flakes Bakery, his latest venture, has been hurt by the COVID-19 shutdown. Even though he has retained his staff and kept up with bills, the dining area “isn’t really making any money.” As a solution, every Friday night they have been setting up a food trailer in the parking lot and selling jerk chicken, pork and lobster. Though this has been the source of much of Butter Flakes’ revenue lately, the move has prompted a different set of challenges in negotiating around the city’s health regulations. The problem is not a failure to social distance— they have taken the proper precautions—but lack of a permit. This issue is one of the many that cities and small businesses have been navigating as they move to implement new protocols. butterflakesbakery.com
Catering CC As the chef and owner of Catering CC, a full-service catering company based in Boynton Beach, Winston Williams specializes in “classical cuisine with a Floribbean twist.” Growing up in the U.S. Virgin Islands, his family instilled in him a deep passion for cooking. Since opening in 2000, Catering CC has relied on social gatherings like weddings, graduation parties, and festivals—most of which have been canceled or postponed this year due to COVID-19. Since the state started phasing out of quarantine, this lost business has not come back. “People need to feel comfortable,” Williams says, “and it doesn’t seem like they do yet.”
While Williams acknowledges it is “a big hill to climb” for the catering industry, he sees the effects of the pandemic, for him, as both a “blessing and a curse.” Teaching people to cook has always been a calling for him, and he is actively seeking avenues to pursue this passion, including developing more educational programs through his YouTube channel, Catering CC. Despite these new professional challenges, this period has emphasized the importance of giving back to the community he caters to. Responding to the rash of graduation ceremony cancellations, Williams recently organized a donation of 200 party meals to families with 2020 graduates in Palm Beach County. Each family received a meal designed to feed six to eight people, and priority was given to those in economic distress. cateringcc.com
Island Boyz Conch Shack Founded by brothers Benny Dieudonne and Romeo McPhee, and their cousin Callex Louis, the Island Boyz Conch Shack is a staple brand in the South Florida food truck scene. Offering traditional Bahamian cuisine like conch salad and fritters, the Boyz’ commitment to fresh ingredients and authentic flavors has earned them a large following, from Palm Beach County to Miami. Prior to COVID-19, they regularly did large events with about 10 other trucks, drawing upwards of 1,200 people for food, fun and mingling. However, like the vast majority of outfits in the restaurant industry, their business has been hampered by the quarantine and social distancing measures. Since Florida started phasing out the quarantine “we’re doing better than most food trucks, thanks to our fan base,” says co-owner Romeo McPhee. Because they are so well known, “we’ve been trying to help out other food trucks, inviting them to small happenings locally.” These events, however, look very different
from pre-COVID-19 events. Instead, “people order and wait in their cars,” explains McPhee. They also place markers on the ground to maintain social distancing, and do not take cash. The uncertainty, the coming hurricane season, and the cancellation of almost all South Florida festivals this summer is all the more reason “we appreciate our followers, fans, and loyal customers.” facebook.com/islandboyzconchshack islandboyzconchshack.com
islandoriginsmag.com
39
TASTE THE ISLANDS // LAS VEGAS
Tamal con Lechón
LAS VEGAS CUBAN CUISINE
AT LAS VEGAS CUBAN CUISINE, FOOD HAS ALWAYS BEEN A FAMILY BUSINESS. THE VILARIÑO FAMILY FLED CUBA ON THE HISTORIC MARIEL BOATLIFT IN 1980. BY 1984, ANTONIO, HIS WIFE NADIA AND THEIR FIVE DAUGHTERS PROUDLY PURCHASED THEIR FIRST RESTAURANT IN HOLLYWOOD, FLORIDA. WRITER & PHOTOGRAPHER DAVID I. MUIR
Churrasco con Yuca y Moro
Zarzuela de Mariscos
Guava Cheesecake
40
islandoriginsmag.com
“BECAUSE WE ARE A LARGE FAMILY, we have more resources and are able to get ahead faster,” says Irina, the youngest of Antonio’s daughters. She shared the inspiration behind the restaurant’s name, Las Vegas. “[It’s] what we call in Spanish a fertile land, where crops are grown. There’s usually a ‘bohío’ [shack] and a river stream that flows through it.” The family now owns 10 Las Vegas restaurant locations throughout South Florida. My visit to their Hallandale spot yielded an excellent dining experience. Upon entering the establishment, I was warmly greeted and offered indoor or outdoor seating. I opted to dine inside, where their large dining area featured lots of seating and island-inspired décor. Soothing romantic ballads and instrumental music washed over me as their server, Nicoll, explained my options. She said I couldn’t go wrong with zarzuela de marisco—a seafood medley of lobster, clams, mussels, scallops, shrimp, and fish filet. Their churrasco skirt steak or roast pork dishes would be equally essential to try. So I ordered all three! My appetizer was the tamal con lechón, which is ground corn mash served with roast pork that is presented on a corn husk, all topped with loads of sautéed onions. The mash was a well seasoned polenta-like mixture of cornmeal and corn kernels with a fairly firm consistency. The flavor of the traditional succulent shredded pork was brightened and elevated by a simple combination of onions, garlic and lime. The churrasco, my first main course, was
served with boiled yuca and moro, the classic black beans and rice. The grilled steak was thinly sliced, the soft yuca was slightly sweet and sat under a bed of sauteed onion. While both were tasty, their rice is a show stopper, with texture that is firm yet moist, and robust flavor from the stewed black-beans it is cooked and served with. I will single out the bay leaves as a significant contributor to my joy! However, main course number two came along and claimed its role as headliner of the day. The zarzuela de mariscos is delightful. The tomato-based creole sauce is filled with onions, sweet peppers and bay leaves. The mussels, lobster tail and fish were all tender and succulent. I know I ate too much, because I didn’t want dessert until Nicoll mentioned they had guava cheesecake. The dense cheesecake was sweet, delicious and covered in guava paste. I’m not usually a fan of caramel, which they used to drizzle the plate for an attractive presentation. However, it couldn’t spoil my sweet tooth. The staff at Las Vegas are warm, friendly, attentive and a wonderful treat. The ambiance really made a difference, and the food overall outdid my expectations. The experience is an occasion worth repeating, so I can make their filete de pollo my next conquest. Las Vegas Cuban Cuisine’s Hallandale location is at 1727 East Hallandale Beach Boulevard. They also have locations in Doral, Hollywood, Miami Beach, Fort Lauderdale, Plantation and Pembroke Pines. lasvegascubancuisine.com
> Continued from page 19
Lisa Davis (Front) 2 FINAL.pdf
JAHMIEL Jamaican dancehall artist Jahmiel (given name Jamiel Foster) has been a fan favorite since 2015 when he broke out with his hit tune “Gain di World.” Since then, he has maintained a presence on dancehall/reggae charts with songs like “Strongest Soldier” and “A Better Tomorrow.” Jahmiel considers himself a real foodie. • CURRENTLY CRAVING: Brown stew salmon with rice and peas. It’s a dish I love, and luckily because I am quarantined in Jamaica, I’ve been able to get it a little more often than usual. When I was traveling prior to the COVID-19 outbreak, I’ve often been unable to get some of my favorite dishes because I was always in another country. • FAVORITE CARIBBEAN DISH TO COOK AT HOME: Curry coconut shrimp with rice and peas. My mom taught me how
to make it, and most of what I know when it comes to Jamaican cooking in general. I’ve also taught a friend from overseas how to prepare it. • GO-TO CARIBBEAN SPOT: There’s so many good restaurants in Jamaica. But I really like a place called the Ultimate Ultra Lounge. When I’m traveling, I’m always hunting for a Jamaican restaurant. If I can’t find one, I’ll get the closest food to it. • YOUR CARIBBEAN ESSENTIALS: Seafood, vegetables, ground provisions, rice, natural seasonings, and my all-purpose seasoning. The all-purpose is like the icing on the cake for me. The perfect finishing touch. • ONE DISH EVERY VISITOR SHOULD TRY: Coconut curry shrimp, because it’s the best. The seasoning mixed with the coconut flavor is really special. And they should pick up a bottle of scotch bonnet pepper sauce to go.
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
1
6/4/20
8:11 PM
TASTE THE ISLANDS // RECIPES
PUERTO RICAN POLLO GUISADO (STEWED CHICKEN)
INGREDIENTS • 1-2 pounds chicken breast (or 2 pounds mixed chicken parts) • 1 teaspoon adobo • 1 teaspoon garlic powder • 1 teaspoon cumin • 1 teaspoon salt • 1 teaspoon oregano • ¼ cup canola oil • ¼ cup sofrito • 1 can tomato sauce • ½ cup olives pitted with pimentos • 2-3 sprigs cilantro, chopped • ½ tsp sazón • 3 large carrots, sliced • 2 cups water or chicken broth • 3 potatoes, cubed
STEWED CHICKEN IS A POPULAR DISH AROUND THE CARIBBEAN REGION. THIS PUERTO RICAN RECIPE FOR POLLO GUISADO (STEWED CHICKEN) BRINGS LATIN FLAVOR TO THE MIX WITH INGREDIENTS LIKE CILANTRO AND ADOBO. TENDER AND FLAVORED WITH MILD BUT RICH SPICES, IT ONLY TAKES ABOUT 30 MINUTES TO MAKE IF YOU USE BONELESS CHICKEN BREASTS. ADD 10 TO 15 MINUTES TO YOUR COOK TIME IF YOU’RE GOING BONE IN.
METHOD
1.
S eason the chicken with adobo, garlic powder, cumin, salt and oregano and allow to marinate for at least 2 hours.
2. 42
I n a large pot with a lid, bring 1/4 cup of oil to medium-high heat. Using tongs, add the chicken pieces and brown on each side for 3 or 4 minutes.
islandoriginsmag.com
3. 4.
Stir in the sofrito and cook for another 5 minutes.
6.
dd the tomato sauce, olives, A cilantro, and sazon, stir together and bring to a boil.
7.
5.
dd the carrots and enough water to A cover the chicken and vegetables.
over the pot and continue to C cook on medium for another 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add the potatoes and cook, covered, for another 10 to 25 minutes depending on chicken cuts and until sauce thickens. Enjoy!
INGREDIENTS
CUBAN SANDWICH A SOUTH FLORIDA STAPLE, THE CUBAN SANDWICH FEATURES AN IMPRESSIVE TRIFECTA OF PORK, HAM, AND CUBAN BREAD SERVED WARM AND TOASTY. WITH SOFT BREAD, SOUR PICKLES, TANGY MUSTARD, AND SAVORY MEATS, EACH BITE GIVES A ROBUST AND COMPLETE COMBINATION OF FLAVORS.
• 1 loaf Cuban bread • ½ lb baked ham (thinly sliced) • ½ lb roast pork (thinly sliced) • ½ lb swiss cheese (thinly sliced) • Dill pickles (thinly sliced) • Butter • Yellow mustard • Mayonnaise (optional)
METHOD
1.
lice the entire loaf of bread in S half, sandwich style and spread butter over the insides.
4.
ext, place the ham slices and N spread some mayonnaise over them, if desired.
2. 3.
Place the pickles along the bottom half of the loaf.
5.
dd the Swiss cheese on top of A the ham, cover with the top half of the bread, and cut the long sandwich into 4 smaller sandwiches.
Layer the roast pork on top of the pickles. Spread some mustard on top of the pork.
6.
sing a sandwich press, grill U each quarter for 2 to 3 minutes (on each side), pressing down while grilling. The bread should be lightly toasted and the cheese melted.
7.
Slice each sandwich in half diagonally, and serve hot.
NOTE: If you can’t find Cuban bread at your local grocery or ethnic food store, soft, fresh French bread can be used as a substitute.
islandoriginsmag.com
43
TASTE THE ISLANDS // RESTAURANT DIRECTORY
RESTAURANT
LISTING IN SOUTH FLORIDA
AVERAGE COST PER PERSON BEFORE DRINKS, TAX AND TIP. $ Under $10 / person $$ Under $20 / person $$$ Under $40 / person $$$$ Over $40 / person 925 NUEVO’S CUBANO’S | $ Cuban Serving succulent roast pork and delicious sandwiches. 925 N Andrews Ave, Fort Lauderdale Delivery ALBERTE’S RESTAURANT I$$ Haitian Unique and authentic Caribbean dishes, with live music on Fridays and Saturdays. 1201 NE 38th St, Oakland Park albertesrestaurant.com Dine In | Delivery | Takeout ALEXSANDRA’S CARIBBEAN CAFE |$$ Caribbean, Jamaican Soak up some sun while enjoying their famous jerk chicken sandwich and patties. 235 E Commercial Blvd, Lauderdale-by-the-Sea Delivery | Takeout ALI’S ROTI SHOP | $ Caribbean, Indian, Vegetarian Tiny counter-serve joint dishing up Trinidadian comfort food like doubles & aloo pie. 3 03 S State Road 7, Plantation Delivery | Takeout LA BELLE JACMELIENNE CAFE | $$ Haitian Haitian décor and friendly staff serving up a wide array of Haitian cuisine 3 328 South University Dr, Miramar Delivery | Takeout
44
islandoriginsmag.com
BAMBOO SHACK | $$ Bahamian Quick-service restaurant serving snacks and traditional Bahamian items. 18450 NW 2nd Ave, Miami Gardens Delivery | Takeout
CHEF CREOLE | $$ Haitian Simply delicious signature Haitian seafood. 2 00 NW 54th St, Miami, FL chefcreole.com Takeout
BAHAMIAN REEF SEAFOOD RESTAURANT |$$$ Seafood Low-key and casual with colorful interior. 7836 NW 44th St, Sunrise Delivery | Takeout
CLIVE’S CAFE | $ Jamaican Popular spot for jerk chicken and curry goat. 5 890 NW 2nd Ave, Miami clivescafe.com Delivery | Takeout
EL BOHIO DE MAMA | $$ Dominican Familystyle restaurant offering music, mofongo, shrimp and dancing. 2181 State Road 7, Margate Dine In | Delivery | Takeout BUTTERFLAKES | $ Jamaican Local spot for patties and hot food. 5100 W Commercial Blvd #3, Tamarac butterflakesbakery.com Delivery | Takeout CALYPSO RESTAURANT & RAW BAR | $$ Caribbean Try their Caribbean-style seafood and Jamaican jerk and curry dishes. 4 60 S Cypress Rd., calypsorestaurant.com Dine In | Takeout
COLADA | $ Cuban Family-owned bakery serving savory and sweet Cuban treats and other Cuban cuisine. 5 25 N Federal Hwy, Fort Lauderdale coladahouse.com Dine In | Delivery | Takeout CONCH HEAVEN | $$ Bahamian Lots of conch based comfort foods, with locations in Miami, Plantation and Atlanta. 1 1275 NW 27th Ave, Miami conchheaven.com Delivery | Takeout CONCH KRAWL CARIBBEAN RESTAURANT | $$ Bahamian, Seafood Enjoy traditional Bahamian and other Caribbean dishes. 2 600 S University Dine In | Takeout
DON ARTURO RESTAURANT | $$ Cuban Serving traditional recipes & drinks in kid-friendly environment. 1 198 SW 27th Ave, Fort Lauderdale donarturorestaurant.com Dine In | Takeout DONNA’S CARIBBEAN RESTAURANT | $$ Jamaican Authentic Jamaican food all day, plus cocktails and Sunday brunch. Nine locations around South Florida. 5 434 N University Drive, Lauderhill donnascaribbean.com Takeout DUKUNOO JAMAICAN KITCHEN | $$ Jamaican Wynwood’s full-service, upscale, Caribbean dining experience. 3 16 NW 24th St, Miami dukunoojamaicankitchen.com Dine In | Delivery | Takeout DUNN’S RIVER | $$ Jamaican Authentic Jamaican cuisine in a beautiful ambiance, serving the Hallandale area. 9 08 W Hallandale Beach Blvd, Hallandale Beach Delivery | Takeout DUTCH POT JAMAICAN RESTAURANT | $$ Jamaican Authentic Jamaican cuisine. 3 120 W Broward Blvd, Fort Lauderdale dutchpotrestaurants.com Delivery | Takeout
ESTEFAN KITCHEN | $$$ Cuban Star-powered destination for upscale Cuban cuisine. 140 NE 39th St #133, Delivery FIERY IRIE | $$ Caribbean All your favorite authentic Jamaican dishes. 1 00 S Flamingo Rd, Pembroke Pines fieryirie.com Dine In | Delivery | Takeout FINLEY’S BAHAMIAN RESTAURANT | $$ Bahamian Try their breakfast served with johnny cakes or grits, lunch specials daily 2 710 W Atlantic Blvd, Pompano Beach finleysbahamianrestaurant. com Delivery | Takeout HAVANA 1957 | $$ Cuban Quick bites in a buzzing backdrop with Havana memorabilia 4 05 Espanola Way, Miami Beach havana1957.com Dine In | Delivery | Takeout ISLAND FUSION GRILL | $$ Jamaican, Cuban Jamaican, Cuban, Asian and Creole flavors with seafood and vegetarian options 4 811 S State Rd 7, Davie, FL 33314 islandfusiongrill.com Delivery | Takeout
LC ROTI SHOP |$ Indian, Vegetarian Cash-only eatery, serving housemade roti with pepper sauce. 19505 NW 2nd Ave, Takeout LITTLE HAVANA | $$ Cuban Authentic Cuban Cuisine 1 2727 Biscayne Blvd, North Miami littlehavanarestaurant.com Dine In | Takeout LOCALICIOUS JAX ICE CREAM | $ Ice Cream Old fashioned, hand made ice cream including Caribbean flavors. 4 220 NW 12th St, Lauderhill Delivery | Takeout JAMAICA KITCHEN | $$ Jamaican Known for their extra spicy beef patties 8 736 SW 72nd St, Miami www.jamaicakitchen.com Dine Outside | Delivery | Takeout
JUANA’S LATIN SPORTS BAR & GRILL |$$ Latin Casual Dominican, Puerto Rican & American sports bar and grill. 1 1602 City Hall juanaslatinsportsbar.com Dine In | Takeout LAS OLAS CAFE | $ Cuban Freshly squeezed juices and Cuban sandwiches. 6 44 6th St, Miami Beach lasolascafesb.com Dine In | Delivery | Takeout LAS VEGAS CUBAN CUISINE | $$ Cuban, Latin American A dine-in hot spot with 16 South Florida locations offering Cuban meals and cocktails. 2 807 E Oakland Park Blvd, Ft. Lauderdale Lasvegascubancuisine.com Dine In | Takeout EL MAGO DE LAS FRITAS | $ Cuban Cozy spot for Cuban burgers. 5 828 SW 8th St, Miami elmagodelasfritas.com Dine In | Delivery | Takeout
JOY’S ROTI DELIGHT | $$ Trinidadian, Indian Counter-service cafe with Indian-inspired Caribbean cuisine. 1 205 NW 40th Ave, Lauderhill joysrotidelight.com Dine In | Delivery | Takeout
MANGU CAFE RESTAURANT | $$ Dominican Bare-bones Dominican spot serving pernil, goat stew, beer & wine. 2 007 W 62nd St, Hialeah Dine In | Delivery | Takeout
JUANA LA CUBANA CAFE |$ Cuban Cuban sandwiches & dishes like ropa vieja & roast pork. 2 850 SW 54th St, Fort Lauderdale juanalacubana.com Dine In | Takeout
MARIO’S CATALINA RESTAURANT | $$$ Cuban Dine in relaxing ambiance, eating Cuban and Spanish 1 611 N Federal Hwy, Fort Lauderdale Dine In | Delivery | Takeout
EL OTRO TIESTO CAFE | $$ Dominican Dominican-Japanese fusion with a twist. 3 023 Biscayne Blvd, Miami elotrotiestocafemiami.com Dine In | Delivery | Takeout ORTANIQUE ON THE MILE | $$$$ Caribbean Fusion Island flavors, local ingredients, creative cocktails, tropical-themed decor. 2 78 Miracle Mile, Coral Gables ortaniquerestaurants.com Dine In | Delivery | Takeout PADRINO’S CUBAN CUISINE | $$ Cuban Serving the best mariquitas, mojito and flan for the past 40 years. 1 135 N Federal Hwy, Fort Lauderdale padrinos.com Dine In | Delivery | Takeout PANFRIDAYS | $$ Jamaican Try their popular jerk chicken and shrimp pasta. 7 183 W Oakland Park Blvd, Lauderhill panfridays.com Dine In | Delivery | Takeout POLLO EL COJIDO | $$ Dominican Delicious mofongo, quesadilla and sancocho. 5 859 N University Dr, Pompano Beach Dine In | Delivery | Takeout POLLO TIPICO | $ Traditional Dominican dishes in a laid-back atmosphere Dine In | Delivery | Takeout
PUERTO SAGUA RESTAURANT | $$ Cuban Known for their soup and oxtail stews 7 00 Collins Ave, Miami Beach Dine In | Takeout
SHALAMA’S HALAL ROTI SHOP | $ Caribbean, Indian Casual ethnic take-out spot with authentic roti, curries and pepper sauce. 1 432 State Road 7, Dine In | Takeout
REED’S CATERING & CONCESSIONS | $$ Seafood, Caribbean Late night seafood truck, with a specialty of conch salad. 1 2203 NW 27th Ave, Miami Takeout
SHEIKS BAKERY & CAFE | $ Caribbean, Indian East & West Indian food including halal meats, spices & baked goods. 1 54 University Dr, Pembroke Pines sheiksbakery.com Takeout
REGGAE PON THE GRILLE | $$ Jamaican, Caribbean Buffet style dining offering tasty Jamaican dishes. 8 032 W McNab Rd, North Lauderdale Reggaeonthegrille.com Dine In | Delivery | Takeout
SWIRL WINE BISTRO |$$ Caribbean, Wine Bar With fresh, high-quality ingredients their culinary team offers a variety of cuisines and wines. 1 435 Lyons Rd, Coconut Creek Delivery | Takeout
ROCK STEADY JAMAICAN BISTRO | $$$ Jamaican, Caribbean Strip-mall cafe with Jamaican dishes like jerk chicken, curries & crab fritters. 2 399 N Federal Hwy - Unit C, Boca Raton r ocksteadyjamaicanbistro.com Dine In | Delivery | Takeout
VERSAILLES | $$ Cuban, Latin American Serving tasty Cuban cuisine and culture for four decades. The gauge of the community’s pulse. 3 555 Southwest 8th Street, Miami versaillesrestaurant.com Dine In | Delivery | Takeout
SAZON CUBAN CUISINE | $ Cuban Tasty Caribbean cuisine and live weekend entertainment. 7 305 Collins Ave, Miami Beach sazoncubancuisine.com Dine In | Delivery | Takeout
YARUMBA RESTAURANT & LOUNGE | $$ Dominican Try their traditional stews or Churrasco with live music. 4 740 NW 167th St, Miami Gardens yarumbarestaurant.com Dine In | Delivery | Takeout
islandoriginsmag.com
45
FEATURE // EVENT RECAP Through his nonprofit program, Embrace Music Foundation, Stewart teaches drumming at schools throughout South Florida. Here, a group of students from Pembroke Pines Charter High School plays for the crowd.
RHYTHMS
OF AFRICA WRITER STAFF PHOTOGRAPHY DAVID I. MUIR
EACH JANUARY, SINCE 2013, LEGENDARY DRUMMER AND MUSIC PRODUCER WILLIE STEWART SHOWS OFF THE BELOVED FRUITS OF HIS LABOR IN A MELODIOUS EXTRAVAGANZA CALLED RHYTHMS OF AFRICA. A FORMER MEMBER OF RENOWNED REGGAE BANDS THIRD WORLD AND INNER CIRCLE, STEWART’S PASSIONS INCLUDE TEACHING HIS CRAFT TO YOUNGER GENERATIONS, AND SHOWCASING EXCEPTIONAL TALENT. THIS ANNUAL EVENT IS THE CULMINATION OF THE MOST VIBRANT ELEMENTS OF HIS WORLD. THIS FEBRUARY, IT WAS CAPTURED BY PHOTOGRAPHER DAVID I. MUIR
TrinidadianAmerican anchor and reporter at WPLG TV Miami Neki Mohan emceed the event, guiding the audience through Stewart’s unpredictable performing arts program lineup of stellar musicians, dancers and vocalists.
46
islandoriginsmag.com
Pembroke Pines Commissioner Angelo Castillo (left), Mayor Frank Ortis (second left) and Vice Mayor Iris Siple (right) present Rhythms of Africa show producer Willie Stewart with a proclamation recognizing William “Willie” Stewart Day.
The sold-out au quality of the dience was blown away by appreciation foperformances. Here they ar the elements they r the twists, turns and unexe showing enjoyed as the pe show progress cted ed.
Visiting Jamaican performer Richie Stephens encouraged the students of Pembroke Pines Charter High School to get up from behind their instruments and join him at the front of the stage, hands in the air as he serenaded their adoring audience.
Lead dancer Jorge Martinez and his vivacious partner thrilled the audience with a high tempo Cuban salsa routine, lighting up the stage with their vibrant costumes and dazzling dance moves. They were backed by the Rhythms Band and the Pembroke Pines Charter High School students for the heart-pounding performance.
Amaya Lewis on her own an(right) performed a variety evening. Here d with fellow dancer, Narshof highly emotive dance se , the two pres ent an African a Cummings, throughout thts dance routine. e To get the attention of the rhythm section above the sound of the drums, Stewart blows a series of short bursts on his whistle, a sharp alert to get the troops ready for their next set.
The African Watoto Dance Theatre performed a dance genre called Kuku. These young ladies in African-inspired garb take the energy up several notches, raising their hands like conductors of an ecstatic orchestra before striking their instruments in rhythmic unison.
islandoriginsmag.com
47
FINAL THOUGHT // LET’S EAT
LET’S EAT WRITER CALIBE THOMPSON PHOTOGRAPHY ERIC GREAVES
THE SUMMER ISSUE OF ISLAND ORIGINS CAME OUT SEVERAL WEEKS BEHIND SCHEDULE BECAUSE, WITH CORONAVIRUS KEEPING OUR INTERVIEW SUBJECTS AND OUR READERS AT HOME, WE WERE HESITANT ABOUT HOW TO PIVOT FOR CONTENT AND ABOUT HOW WE WOULD REACH PEOPLE. WE WONDERED WHEN COMMUNITIES WOULD BE OUT AND ABOUT AGAIN, AND WHAT THEY WERE DOING TO PASS THE TIME AT HOME.
Calibe hosting the 2019 TTIX Brunch event. Kaftan by Tanya Marie Design
48
islandoriginsmag.com
IT SEEMS PEOPLE IN GENERAL DECIDED to throw themselves into cooking, both because they had the time now, and because it made them feel better. And it seems Caribbean people were able to find lots of the ingredients they love, because they knew to shop off the beaten path at the ethnic supermarkets, rather than at the general ones. Full disclosure: this was supposed to be the “gastronomy” issue, but because COVID stopped our engagement of the fine dining establishment crowd, we turned to the home cooking crowd and this became the “culinary” issue. Caribbean folks love gathering in fellowship over food. Many of us feel disrespected when we offer food to our guests and they don’t eat it. Our fridges are usually full, and we are typically more excited about the taste of home than we are about exploring exotic cuisines. My own greatest media success story has been the food and travel series I produce called “Taste the Islands,” which was syndicated by American Public Television and broadcast in all but two states. There’s a sweet, simple joy in watching our chefs pontificate on the wonders of our unique regional food staples, and then artfully combine them to prepare the most delectable island cuisine—even though I’m pretty terrible at making it myself. So in this issue, we choose to honor the thing that most often brings us together—food (followed closely by music, parties and sports). We visited with small businesses trying to navigate their way between a cautious public and stringent local government regulations. We questioned goliaths of Caribbean packaged food distribution in America about how they protect their staff and how their business practices have evolved during the pandemic. We talked to the home cooks turning everyday meals into haute cuisine. We explored beautiful kitchens and learned how to support Caribbean businesses that honor plantbased beauty regimens. For those looking forward to traveling again, we’ve shared some of the island events celebrating gastronomy. And if you choose to stay local, our restaurant guide has been updated so you know if and how your favorite Caribbean eateries are making meals available. Whatever this time has taken from us, we continue to hold on to the comfort provided by the people we love, and a yummy plate of food. Now, my friends, let’s eat! #islandorigins
If I could do one thing, I’d have a daycare closer to work. If you could do one thing for your community, what would it be? More daycare centers? More funding for Head Start? Completing the 2020 Census is a safe and easy way to inform how billions of dollars in funding flow into your community for hundreds of services. Respond online, by phone, or by mail.
Complete the census at:
2020CENSUS.GOV Paid for by U.S. Census Bureau.
