TRAVEL
TASTE THE ISLANDS // CHRISTMAS DISHES
ARUBA A speciality on the Dutch island, Keshi Yena is also the star attraction on Christmas menus. Baked in a Gouda cheese shell, the hearty casserole of chicken, onions, raisins and peppers is gussied up with sides of a cornmeal mash called funchi and a flat pancake called pan bati. “We serve this dish family-style because it’s perfectly share-able, “smiles Lino Van der Biezen, manager of Elements restaurant, Bucuti & Tara Beach Resort, “and for dessert, try our Christmas cashew cake with a shot of Ponche Crema, our version of eggnog.” Sweetening the pot, Bon Pasco, or Merry Christmas in the local Papiamento language, is a must-sip blend, with the island rum called Coicoei, Licor 43, vanilla ice cream and coconut cream. www.bucuti.com
TA S T E T H E IS L A N DS T HIS
HOLIDAY
SEASON WRITER MELANIE REFFES PHOTOGRAPHY SUPPLIED
A MULTICULTURAL MELTING POT AND RECIPES TREASURED LIKE FAMILY HEIRLOOMS, PREPARING, SHARING AND ENJOYING HOLIDAY FARE IN THE CARIBBEAN. BRING YOUR APPETITE AND DIG INTO OUR DELECTABLE ROUNDUP OF HOLIDAY DISHES.
NEVIS On the small isle across the channel from St. Kitts, holiday sips and snacks cover the bases from a traditional turkey to West Indian mainstays like the one-pot pelau made with rice, pigeon peas, chicken, salted pig tail, pumpkin, coconut milk and herbs. Keeping the holiday theme, add a slice (or two) of the boozy rum-basted Black Cake, and a few forkfuls of, coconut rum bread pudding. At the Caribbean’s only plantation inn on the beach, bartenders Dan Perkins and Kaddy Simmonds at the Nisbet Plantation Beach Club get creative, with their island-famous tropical tipples like the Christmas-colored ruby-red Nisbet Beach Martini, and the green melon Nevisian Sunset splashed with vodka. www.nisbetplantation.com
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TASTE THE ISLANDS // CHRISTMAS DISHES
JAMAICA From the Grand Market on Christmas Eve to houses sparkling with ‘pepper lights’, the holidays are all about families, good cheer and downhome specialities. Kick start Christmas Day with ackee and saltfish, the Jamaican breakfast of champions made with sautéed codfish and boiled ackee that looks a lot like scrambled eggs. Move on up to Christmas dinner, often served in the late afternoon, where hefty platters of chicken, curried goat, stewed oxtail, rice and gungo peas (also called pigeon peas), plantains, dumplings and boiled green bananas do a dash of scotch bonnet pepper proud. A glass of sorrel drink made from the tart red flower that tastes a tad like a raspberry, rum-soaked fruitcake and a reggae soundtrack, morph every backyard into a holiday dance floor. www.visitjamaica.com
PUERTO RICO Meat, eat and be merry with Spanish staples like pernil asado or roast pork shoulder with a spicy sweet drizzle, rice and pigeon peas called arroz con gandules, and for the fish lovers in the family, guisado are salt cod fritters that marry well with tostones or fried green plantains, topped with chicken or pork. Sharing the marquis, mofongo is a hefty mashed plantain mound stuffed with chicken, beef or seafood. Upping the festive ante, chefs add pork cracklings, bacon, garlic and a fruity salsa to cut the salty taste. Not for the faint-of-appetite, toast dinner with a decadently rich piña colada and a coquito made potent with white rum (we recommend Bacardi Superior), coconut cream, condensed milk and vanilla. For a sweet treat, tembleque is irresistible, made with coconut milk, sugar and cinnamon. www.seepuertorico.com
TRINIDAD AND TOBAGO Popular on Christmas morning, glazed ham and hops (like a hamburger bun) with a side of pepper relish called chow chow is a guaranteed crowd pleaser. Other fan favorites include tamale-like snacks called pastelles made with cornmeal that is stuffed with meat, olives and capers, and then steamed (or boiled) in banana leaves. A pretty side dish, Christmas rice flecked with raisins, peppers, ginger and thyme, is on the holiday A-list. Leading the dessert hit parade, black cake is deliciously browned with sugar and molasses, and studded with hooch-soaked raisins, prunes and currants. Keeping the spirit flowing, a peppery ginger beer with a pinch of cloves and a splash of lime fits the bill nicely. www.visittobago.gov.tt
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TRAVEL // TAKE SOME YOU TIME
WELLNESS & BEAUTY “Give us your body for a week and we’ll
SLEEP RETREAT Grenada’s True Blue Bay is about to
WRITERS’ RETREAT This 6 day writers’ retreat held in Negril,
give you back your mind,” is the irresistible
launch what they say is the Caribbean’s
Jamaica promises aspiring authors (that’s
promise made by the folks at the all-
first sleep retreat. This exclusive 5 - 7 day
81% of all Americans by the way) daily
inclusive BodyHoliday Retreats, Saint Lucia,
sleepover was designed in conjunction
free-writing exercises. You’ll delve into
ranked one of the world’s top spa resorts
with neuro scientists and world renowned
the poems of the late Sir Derek Walcott,
by Conde Nast Traveler. With some of the
sleep experts. Aimed at a growing number
knighted lord of the British realm, and one
regions best facilities and an indulgent
of sleep deprived adults, this revolutionary
of the Caribbean’s most eminent writers.
array of state-of-the-art therapies and
holistic approach to a lack of sleep
On the grounds of the hacienda-style villa,
treatments, they can help you decompress
incorporates exercise, personalized diet
you can discover the inspiration you need
and feel whole again. Try their infrared
regimes and mindful meditations, and is
to reignite your literary dreams, receive
detox therapy and the deep tissue ayurvedic
designed to detoxify our overstimulated
feedback on your work, and practice your
back massages with ancient herbs.
brains and improve our sleep habits. It’s so
craft with fellow writers.
thebodyholiday.com
new, you’ll have to call for details.
kahini.org/caribbean
Contact: 473-443-8783 or truebluebay.com
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YOU
TIME
TA K E SOM E
WRITER COPYSEED.COM
PHOTOGRAPHY SUPPLIED
WHEN THE NEXT LONG WEEKEND ROLLS AROUND, the islands can be the perfect cleansing antidote to postChristmas spending blues, lapsed New Year’s resolutions and the general stresses and strains of everyday life. So you don’t have to lift another finger, we’ve done all the hard work for you. From realigning your chakras on a yoga getaway to unwinding in a thermal hydro pool at a top-notch wellness spa, or catching up on some much-needed sleep, we’ve rounded up just a few of the loveliest and most surprising retreat options the Caribbean has to offer.
WHETHER YOUR IDEAL YOGA DETOX
COOKING CLASSES With a 4 star rating on Tripadvisor,
Located along the stunning coastline
WELLNESS RETREAT INVOLVES COOKING CLASSES,
Graycliff Hotel, Nassau, Bahamas is a
of Rincon Bay in the Dominican Republic,
must-visit spot for food lovers everywhere.
Hotel Villa Serena is a sanctuary where
WRITING WORKSHOPS OR
The Graycliff Culinary Academy offers
the mind, body and spirit can heal. The
DAYS SPENT PAMPERING
interactive cooking classes under the expert
resort consists of 21 spacious rooms with
guidance of the hotel’s Executive Chef.
calming ocean views that have the power
EVERY INCH OF YOUR BODY
Using local ingredients, you will learn how
to trigger your pleasure neurons. As well
to prepare a variety of exotic, Caribbean
as daily yoga instruction, tai chi classes
SPA, WHY NOT HOP OVER
infused dishes, and the best wines to pair
and customized vegan meals, your retreat
TO THE CARIBBEAN TO KICK-
them with. Class sizes are small and all
includes ‘Art of Raw’ workshops that teach
utensils are provided.
you about the amazing health benefits of
START YOUR GOALS AND
graycliff.com/culinary
clean eating.
RECALIBRATE YOUR SENSES
Contact: bookyogaretreats.com
IN STYLE.
IN A HEAVENLY-SMELLING
islandoriginsmag.com
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NUPTIALS IN NEVIS
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AD
TRAVEL // HAUTE HOSPITALITY
HAUTE HOSPITALITY
WRITER MONIQUE MCINTOSH PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF SECRET BAY HOTEL
EMBRACING LOCAL MATERIALS, HISTORICAL TRADITIONS, AND CLIMATECONSCIOUS INFRASTRUCTURE, THE CARIBBEAN HOTEL INDUSTRY OFFERS AN IMPRESSIVE SELECTION OF RECREATIONAL HAVENS ARTFULLY DESIGNED TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE REGION’S NATURAL BEAUTY AND AMENITIES.
FAR FROM THE COOKIE-CUTTER BUILDINGS WITH HERMETICALLY-SEALED SUITES, BASIC POOLS, AND GENERIC “TROPICAL” DÉCOR THAT YOU MAY FIND IN SOME QUARTERS, THERE ARE ARCHITECTURAL OASES THROUGHOUT THE ISLANDS, WORTHY OF FERVENT INSTAGRAM LOVE. FOR THOSE EQUALLY AWED BY SWOOPING ROOFLINES AND OCEAN PANORAMAS, CHECK OUT OUR LIST OF GORGEOUS RESORTS WITH LEGIT ARCHITECTURAL PEDIGREES. 34
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SECRET BAY HOTEL ST. JOHN, DOMINICA Dotting the deep Dominican rainforest with dramatic cliff views, the eco-resort Secret Bay lives up to its moniker, with an elegant series of villas and bungalows offering complete seclusion among the treetops. Conceived by famed Venezuelan architect Fruto Vivas, each luxe cabin is a work of masterful design. “We wanted guests to feel a sense of harmony within the natural environment, so we aimed to create that experience by blending the indoors with the outdoors,” Vivas says. The structures resemble fanciful treehouses, completely clad in Guyanese hardwood and elevated from the ground by modernist concrete pillars to harness the refreshing sea winds. Inside, the tropical hardwood continues—from the plank flooring to the vaulted ceilings, while expansive windows, verandas, and balconies perfectly frame vignettes of the outdoors. The design, Vivas notes, allows “guests to feel the crosswinds, smell the aroma of the forest, and embrace a sense of freedom.” The property’s sleek infinity pools and winding pathways beckon guests to leave their villas and explore. “Dominica is an amazing tropical paradise, and the elevation allows Secret Bay to be integrated with the external space so the landscape can penetrate the interior seamlessly.” Ever mindful of preserving the ecosystem, the resort was built by hand, using sustainably-sourced woods, and each structure was carefully placed, avoiding as much land-clearing as possible. The result—a resort experience submerged in lush rainforest.
islandoriginsmag.com
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TRAVEL // HAUTE HOSPITALITY
PARK HYATT ST. KITTS
BANANA BAY, ST. KITTS & NEVIS PHOTOS: COURTESY OF PARK HYATT ST. KITTS The fusion architecture of Park Hyatt St. Kitts, opened in 2017, bucks the trend of unremarkable hotel chain design, with a contemporary aesthetic inspired by the island’s historic building style, particularly its sugar plantations—from palatial great houses to modest barns. The expansive property, overlooking Christophe Harbor, includes 126 rooms, three acclaimed restaurants, a wellness sanctuary, and the first Caribbean location of the renowned Miraval Life in Balance Spa. Rooms and suites are housed in classic gable-roofed structures, with special suites featuring private sundecks and views of neighboring
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Mount Nevis. Its interiors boast a clean, white-washed style, with paneling and ceiling beams—a stark contrast to the historic opulence of the public spaces. The extraordinary Rampart terrace pairs infinity pools with massive arches built from local stone, invoking the aged stonework of nearby colonial fortress, Brimstone Hill. This stonework continues to the spa and wellness retreat’s replica sugar mill, providing an idyllic spot for yoga and meditation, with views of the sky from the circular opening above. Even Park Hyatt’s three restaurants boast their own architectural distinction. The Fisherman’s Village recalls fishing huts and berths with its thatched roofs and open-air dining, while the exposed stone and peaked ceilings of the Stone Barn gourmet restaurant echoes the structures once used to protect crops during the rainy season. As the resort’s epicenter, with a restaurant, rum bar, library, and conservatory, The Great House takes inspiration from grand plantation houses, incorporating high ceilings and an abundance of verandas.
EL BLOK
VIEQUES, PUERTO RICO PHOTOS: COURTESY OF EL BLOK There is a large and imposing edifice nestled among the sleepy beach bungalows in the picturesque town of Esperanza, Vieques, a small island off the coast of Puerto Rico. This stunning modernist retreat, El Blok hotel, unites minimalistic design with the Caribbean’s organic beauty. “The experience of this hotel is not about being in a pastiche or alien notion of a Caribbean that does not exist,” says El Blok’s San Juan-based architect Nataniel Fúster of Fuster + Architects. “It’s about radically embracing, reimagining and celebrating our reality…to celebrate our intense natural light, to take advantage of the open and uninterrupted spaces, and to create a tension between the user and the surroundings.” El Blok may have raw, Brutalist bones, but its waves of gleaming white concrete echo the surrounding coastline. Inspired by the permeability of coral reefs, the façade also features moveable, perforated panels that “act like membranes,” says Fuster, providing the protection of hurricane shutters, while filtering light that casts intricate shadows in an equally striking interior. Its circular lobby is retro-modern, and its curvaceous rooms are balanced with streamlined décor. The hotel also includes subtle nods to classic Spanish-Caribbean architecture, with col-
orful tilework and an open atrium that circulates fresh air and light. Completed in 2014, El Blok is not just celebrated for its distinctive design, its reinforced structure weathered 2017’s Hurricane Maria without significant damage. The hotel grounds played an active part in the island’s recovery and has become a place of refuge for locals and tourists alike, thanks to its lively (and legendary) rooftop, with an infinity pool, entertainment space, and uninterrupted ocean vistas.
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TRAVEL // HAUTE HOSPITALITY
TRIDENT CASTLE AND HOTEL
PORT ANTONIO, JAMAICA PHOTOS: COURTESY OF TRIDENT CASTLE AND HOTEL Turn a certain corner around Pegg Point in Port Antonio, Jamaica and you’ll suddenly be greeted by a fairytale castle, complete with towering turrets, Juliet balconies, and a grand staircase leading downward to the sea. It is bright white, majestic, and—if you’re seeing it for the first time—totally unexpected. Designed by Jamaican architect Earl Levy as a private residence, which eventually became his own home, Trident Castle captures the old-world elegance of classic British Colonial architecture. The grandiose banquet hall has 47-foot ceilings, neo-classical accents and a checkerboard floor. The Castle’s glamorous entertainment spaces also include a traditional dining room featuring regal arches and decorative plaster friezes, as well as sweeping terraces with iconic black-and-white tilework. Built in the 1980s, the castle now serves as an exclusive venue for weddings and other special events, and at times as a vacation retreat for Hollywood stars and music royalty. Nestled on the same property is the luxurious Trident Hotel, which Levy originally designed. In 2012, after both buildings came under new ownership, Kingston-based architect Vidal Downing and his team at Atelier Vidal remodeled the hotel. In a nod to Trident Castle’s traditional architecture, the team sought to marry the boutique hotel’s classic style with a more contemporary sensibility. The goal, Downing says, “was to change how the building related to the outdoors. We wanted to reconnect you to the view, stripping away any distractions.” The new exteriors mirrored the castle’s Jamaican Georgian architecture, with gabled roofs and symmetrical wings, but entrances and openings were expanded to “always bring your eyes back to the ocean,” he adds. The overhaul incorporated elements of tropical contemporary design with sleek façades—a minimalist style that continues to the modern terraces with infinity pools.
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