Isle mag 03

Destination

Dingle

A Family of

Entrepreneurs

Cooking with

Clodagh

Issue 3 Vol 1

Summer 2013

Contents

12

Issue 3 | July –October 2013

Features:

22

Irish Style Living & Enterprise Issue 3 July – October 2013

22

Travel ISLE – Travel

ISLE – The Dingle Peninsula beckons during the summer months.

Cover Credit:

36

Food & Drink Producer – Meet a

Founder and Creative Director Lisa McGee

44

Entrepreneur ISLE

56

Garden ISLE – Beautiful houses,

64

Eddie Cleary

family of cheese makers in Tipperary.

Logo Design Louisa Condon The Ant Team

– Three siblings take inspiration from their family estate in Carlow.

Website & Magazine Design One Little Studio

castles and gardens to visit throughout Ireland.

Contributing Photographers Eddie Cleary Tom Doherty Felicity Hayes-McCoy Paul Sherwood

Chef ISLE – Clodagh McKenna brings us summer recipes from her latest book, Kitchen Diaries

Columns: Editor’s Page – Lisa welcomes you to

3

Issue 3.

4

News ISLE– a round-up of some of the things happening around this island of ours.

6

Taste ISLE – see what has been tickling

8

Blog ISLE – Lorna interviews four bloggers who have used their blogs to go onto other ventures.

11

Book ISLE – our newest column - four books recommended by Des Kenny.

12

Product ISLE – food fresh from

16

our tastes buds lately

the producers.

Getaway ISLE – indulge in a weekend away on either coast.

2 Isle Summer 2013

Contributing Writers Lila Connolly Felicity Hayes-McCoy Des Kenny Lorna Sixsmith

44 64

Intern Sophia McGee ISLE magazine ®is a registered trademark.

ISLE magazine is published four times a year and is a FREE online magazine.

Registered offices are at 25 Radharc Darach, Nenagh Co. Tipperary IRELAND Phone: +353 (0)86 347567; Email: info@islemagazine.com www.islemagazine.com Company Registration number 506406.

All contents of this magazine are copyright ©ISLE magazine and they may not be reproduced in any form without written consent from the publishers.

Lisa with Alan Kelly TD, accepting the Runner-Up award for Emerging Business Catergory

Welcome to Issue 3. The big news here at ISLE HQ is that I won the Runner –Up award for the Emerging Business category at the Network North Tipperary Business Women of the Year Awards on the 14th of June. Here I am with Alan Kelly TD - Minister of State at the Department of Transport, Tourism and Sport Happy summer to all of you - we’ve had sporadic spells of good weather in Ireland lately but as always we take the good days when they come. We were very lucky, however, when photographing the Dingle Peninsula last August (pg 22) – it was literally the best day of the entire summer which made Eddie Cleary’s images even better and Dingle will forever hold a soft spot in my heart. This issue you’ll also meet the Grubb family in Tipperary who are the fine producers of Cashel Blue cheese (pg. 36) and three siblings in Carlow who definitely have the entrepreneurial gene (pg. 44). We’ve also included

some great summer recipes from Clodagh McKenna (pg. 64) and encourage you to visit Ireland’s great selection of houses, castles & gardens (pg. 56).

Don’t forget you can link directly through to all the websites we feature in our editorial pieces and directly into the websites of all our advertisers.

Our next issue, Issue 4 will be our 1st Anniversary issue and is due to go live the 4th week in October. We have lots of exciting things in the works for that issue so please LIKE us on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/pages/ ISLEmagazine/199204003527882 or give us a follow on Twitter https://twitter.com/ISLEmagazine

Have a great summer!

AIF_381-IsleMagBannerAd2_Layout 1 3/7/13 2:59 PM Page 1

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We invite you to learn about giving back to the land that has given us so much. Please visit www.theirelandfunds.org

Summer 2013 Isle 3

News

ISLE

Compiled by Lila Connolly

Some newsy bits from all around Ireland

5 Gatherings/Festivals To Attend: One to Watch

Milliner Mark Garvie has captured our eye with his charming and colourful headpieces – we particularly love this one – perfect for the summer racing season.

Mark told us, “A lot of my inspirations come from nature….. my previous career as a floral designer can also be seen in my designs from shapes to the handmade silk flowers created to trim designs.

My millinery idols would be Stephen Jones from England and Irelands own Phillip Treacy. “ Mark launched his business in February 2011 and is currently working on a bridal collection along with his Autumn/Winter collection to be launched in October. For more: www.facebook.com/mgmillinery or ring him on +353 (86) 1614573.

 Longitude Festival 19-21 July, Marlay Park, Dublin Over 50 acts performing on three stages over the 3 days.

http://longitude.ie/

Puck Fair 9-12 August, Killorglin, Co. Kerry.

One of the oldest and longest celebrated fairs (over 400years).



http://www.puckfair.ie/index.php  Irish Game & Country Fair 30 August - 1st September, Birr Castle, Birr Co. Offaly Includes clay shooting, fly casting, gundog handling and more.

http://www.irishgameandcountryfair.com/  The Irish Craft Beer Festival 6-8 September, RDS, Dublin Featuring over 20 Irish craft breweries and cider producers and more.

http://www.irishcraftbeerfestival.com/  Cork Folk Festival 10-13 October, Cork Aiming to set the record for ‘The World’s Largest Célí Band’ on the 13th at City Hall.

http://www.corkfolkfestival.com/

4 Isle Summer 2013

Aladdin’s cave in West Cork

The Old Mills Stores is a treasure trove of items to buy from antique stoves, Irish craft and design and European stoneware to handcrafted soaps, Mexican umbrellas, American bird callers, West Cork socks, local history books and much more.

Prepare to be surprised & delighted by this ‘most chic’ shop (Irish Examiner2012) in this far-flung corner of west Cork.

Millside, Gortroe, Leap, Co Cork, Ireland Tel: + 353(0) 28 34917 / 086 3919237 www.theoldmillstores.ie

Get on Your Bike

Famine Museum Re-Opens On the 24 June, The Irish National Famine Museum and Strokestown Park was re-opened by patron, President of Ireland, Michael D. Higgins after extensive renovation. The Famine Museum is the first national attempt to address the historic significance of the Great Irish Famine. During the time of the famine, Strokestown estate, like many estates, was a centre of struggle and controversy as visible social inequality led to civil unrest. The estate became famous when the then landlord, Major Denis Mahon, was assassinated. Compelled by its history, the Westward Group decided to restore the property and Strokestown Park is now regarded as one of the best examples of a privately funded restoration project For more information on The Irish National Famine Museum and Strokestown Park visit

www.strokestownpark.ie

This summer why not do some more cycling? In north Donegal, Cycle Inishowen was launched in June and they do bike hire, guided tours & cycling holidays. All tours include Ireland’s most northerly point, Malin Head. Most recently they received a Green Hospitality Award for their environmental pledge. An added bonus is that 5 out of the 6 hotels they use on their tours also boost this award. Choose a carbon neutral way to enjoy Ireland.

For more on Cycle Inishowen, check out their website: www.cycleinishowen.com Summer 2013 Isle 5

taste

ISLE

Compiled by Lila Connolly

Products and Ideas Tickling our Taste Buds

On the Wild side

We’ve recently fallen in love with this range of products – Wild about. At Bloom we got their Nettle pesto which we’ve used on chicken & with cheese and crackers. Their syrups can be used – especially in summer - for a flavorful range of drinks (both alcoholic and non).

Here’s their great recipe for a Margarita Sting: 1 part Tequila 1 part Wild about Nettle Syrup 1 part fresh squeezed lime juice Mix all ingredients in a cocktail shaker with ice, strain and pour into salt rimmed cocktail glasses.

More recipes for other cocktails on their website www.wildabout.ie

Cheese Shop

This summer when heading out to Lahinch beach or other parts of Co. Clare –take time to stop at St. Tola’s new visitor centre/shop. When we did, Siobhan kindly showed us through the barns where we got to see all their goats contentedly munching on their fresh cut grass. The visitor centre of course sells their range of cheeses including their original, the award winning Ash log, Greek style Feta and a hard cheese. They also sell other local products such as Burren Smokehouse salmon and Linnalla ice cream. For recipes and more go to - http://www.st-tola.ie

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Powerful Punch

Poitín, once illegal in Ireland, is now coming into its own again. The Teeling Whiskey Co. in Dublin is not only producing whiskey but also Poitín. It is still potent at 61.5% alcohol but can be enjoyed neat, with water, with mixers or as a cocktail and we enjoyed the Poitín Punch they had mixed up on their stand at Bloom in June. www. teelingwhiskey.com (and for their Poitín punch recipe – go to our blog - http://www.islemagazine.com/category/latest-news/

Salty Affair

The Beara Peninsula in West Cork is home to the O’Neill family who has been producing their handcrafted sea salt since 2010. Last month they launched a brand new range of 5 flavoured salts: Aromatic Garlic, Lemon & Pepper, Chilli & Paprika, Oak Smoked and Aran Dillisk. They are ideal for rubbing on meat for summer BBQ’s , seasoning potatoes and vegetables or even adding to soups.

For more go to: http://www.irishatlanticsalt.ie/

Just launched

Good Food Ireland has just launched their new online shop selling artisan food gifts from Ireland – many of which can be shipped to the USA. We found many of our favourite producers in the mix. To celebrate the launch, from Now until 31st July they are offering FREE shipping - http://goodfoodireland.ie/shop

Summer 2013 Isle 7

blog

ISLE

Written and Produced by Lorna Sixsmith

Whether they are growing food in their own vegetable garden, foraging in the woods or buying it at the market, cooking or baking, these four talented bloggers all excel in their writing and photography. Their blogs have brought them opportunities which means they can

do more of what they love best and turn a hobby into a career.

Lorna Sixsmith is currently writing a book ‘Would You Marry A Farmer? Confessions of an Irish Farmerette’ which was inspired by her most popular posts on her own blog at http://irishfarmerette.com

Farmette

by Imen McDonnell Before marrying her Irish farming husband, Imen McDonnell worked in the States as a film producer and is returning to that role, partly as a result of her ’farmette’ blog. Having become a well renowned and popular blog for recipes and beautiful photography, it led to column writing for Irish Country Living after the editor read a post describing Imen’s funny experience visiting a rural fashion show. Her weekly column and her finalist status in Saveur Awards made her blog even more popular.

Not one to sit on her laurels, Imen is grasping the filming nettle again and has produced a short film named ‘Small Green Fields’. The film highlights the skill and pride of Irish food producers and their beauty and quality of their animals and their food. It may be screened at the New York Food Film Festival this October. www.farmette.ie

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Nessa’s Family Kitchen

by Nessa Robins Nessa Robins is a busy mum of four children and started her blog early in 2010. Success from her blog started when she won the ‘Best Newcomer blog award’ in 2011 followed by writing as a columnist for Westmeath Independent and Easy Parenting.

Approached by the commissioning editor of Island Books, who unbeknownst to Nessa was a regular reader of her blog, it took a mere yet very busy four months for Nessa to complete her recipe book Apron Strings. Recently published, Apron Strings is a reflection of what life is like in a busy family household, complete with stories and recipes to be enjoyed by busy parents and grandparents. www. nessasfamilykitchen. blogspot.com

Hunters Lodge Living

by Fiona Dillon

Wise Words

by Mona Wise Mona Wise started blogging in 2007 as a means to stay in contact with friends after leaving America.

Mona maintains she is an amateur photographer and likes to ‘point, shoot and publish’ rather than spend time on post-production, yet her photographs increase reader engagement. Her honest, no-nonsense and humorous writing, the recipes and her photography have combined well to create a blog that has won many blog awards and secure the Wise couple a weekly column in the Irish Sunday Times.

Mona self published her first recipe book ‘The Chef and I: A Nourishing Narrative’ complete with a funny yet poignant memoir last year. Currently working on her second recipe/memoir book, it will be on the shelves next spring. http://www.wisewords.ie

Fiona Dillon’s book ‘Food from an Irish Garden’ will be published this October.

It was born from her blog which she began in 2010. Leaving the corporate life behind, Fiona was engaging in a ‘Good Life’ lifestyle with a large garden, growing vegetables and keeping chickens. Adding more poultry and pigs to the menagerie, Fiona discovered that her experiences and her lifestyle were becoming regular reading to many fans.

Her blog really grew in popularity after being featured in the Farmers Journal, writing columns for magazines, hosting a radio program and being featured on national television as well as being a finalist in various awards. www.hunterslodgeliving.com

Blogger Tips: 33

A good photogra ph tells a thousa nd words and enga ges readers 33 Take your photographs in natural light 33 Maintain co nsistency in yo ur writing of blog po sts 33 Use your blo g as your ‘warm up’ or writing practice 33 Use other so cial media platfor ms to connect with ot hers and promot e your blog 33 Be true to your own person ality and voice 33 Be passion ate about your topic 33 Use your blo g as your portfol io for columnist oppo rtunities 33 Readers lov e stories of ‘real’ life - the gut wrench ing tears and th e belly aching lau ghter 33 Create ‘thea tre for the mind’ with stories behind th e food Summer 2013 Isle 9

Paudie’s Bar & Long’s Seafood Restaurant Paudie’s Bar “go where the locals go” “Offering True Irish Hospitality” Car Park Lift Wheelchair Access

Dingle’s Newest Family Owned Town Centre Hotel Dingle Bay Hotel Strand Street, Dingle, Co. Kerry T. +353 (0)66 9151231 E. info@dinglebayhotel.com www.dinglebayhotel.com 10 Isle Summer 2013

This young and dynamic Travel Agency, offers a range of unique discover, activity, arts & crafts holidays in Ireland.

Custom Made Trips, Cruise & Drive Ireland, Irish Walk Holidays and much more.. amidst the exceptional beauty and vibrancy of Ireland and sustained by the best national tourism service providers.

Our aim is that you’ll enjoy the perfect holiday!

Book with us today. We provide 24/7 assistance and support in the country. www.thecelticconnexion.com Mob: + 353 87 6677370

book

ISLE

Written by Des Kenny

Despite the fact that the Irish are reputed to be wonderful storytellers, there are few really good historical novels written by Irish authors available.

An exception however is James Plunkett’s novel “Strumpet City” first published in 1969 and now available in an attractive paperback. From the first word until the last the reader is lost totally wrapped up in the events of 1913 an the Lockout.

Patrick McGinley’s “Bogmail” is a story of murder and blackmail set in a remote village in Co Donegal. It’s first appearance in 1972 drew the ire of the Donegal Democrat who deemed it to be “virtually pornography.....a shocking libel people of Donegal” Reminiscent of the satires of Flann O’Brien and Spike Milligan its reappearance in this attractive paperback is most welcome.

“Back to Blackbrick” is an extremely important book as it deals with the effect of that insidious disease Alzheimers on a family. Purportedly a novel for young adults, it is also appropriate for anyone who has a loved one or a friend affected by this dreadful affliction.

With that, it is a cracking good story.

A collection of twenty stories “Galway Stories” brings into sharp relief Galway’s human heart and soul in all its joy and sorrow, in all its aspirations and disappointments, in all its victories and defeats. It is in effect the quintessential alternate guide to this intriguing city and county giving a real sense of what makes it the magical place it is to live in.

Des Kenny was born in Galway and a member of the Kenny Family who have been selling books since 1940. He was educated in Galway and Paris and jokingly says that he has been selling books since before he was born. You can purchase all the books he has reviewed from (FREE worldwide shipping) www.kennys.ie Summer 2013 Isle 11

Product

ISLE

Irish Products We Love

Compiled by Lisa & Sophia McGee Photography by Lisa McGee

12 Isle Summer 2013

Limerick Milk Market

Since local produce is so abundant especially in the summer months in Ireland, this issue we decided to encourage you to visit local farmers markets, permanent markets or food festivals because nothing beats buying directly from the producer. Here we highlight some of the things we recently found.

Summer 2013 Isle 13

Sheridan’s Irish Food Festival

14 Isle Summer 2013

Balllymaloe Literary Festival

This handy list from Bord Bia will help you find a farmers market in your area. http://www.bordbia.ie/aboutfood/ farmersmarkets/pages/ We photographed on location at The Limerick Milk Market http://www.milkmarketlimerick.ie/ Ballymaloe Literary Festival http://litfest.ie/ and at Sheridan’s Irish Food Festival http://www.sheridanscheesemongers.com/ index.php/news/foodfair We are consistently delighted with the range of amazing foods we find on our travels throughout Ireland. Keep an eye on our Tweets - https://twitter.com/ISLEmagazine to find out where we are next.

Summer 2013 Isle 15

Getaway

Lighthouse

Retreat

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O

O

On the West coast I just couldn’t resist telling you about a newly renovated lighthouse on Clare Island that is located just off the coast of Mayo at the entrance to picturesque Clew Bay. While I have yet to visit in person, it’s definitely on my list when I need a true retreat. With no televisions (although one can get Wi-Fi access) and just the tranquility of the sea and the landscape it will undoubtedly be a well needed escape from my busy life as an editor.

One can stay in the Tower House or

the Banshee Cottage or another four rooms all impeccably decorated and quite luxurious. I personally love the warmth of the kitchen with its vibrant red cabinets – what a perfect spot for gathering family and friends. There is also a library and the viewing tower and of course Clare Island itself to be explored, once a stronghold of Granuaile the 16th century Pirate.

Rates begin at €175 per night but that includes the ferry, transfers to the lighthouse and an evening meal. http://www.clareislandlighthouse.com

Two locations for a getaway on either coast of our beautiful island Written by Lisa McGee

Summer 2013 Isle 17

Getaway

Dun Laoghaire

Delights

E 18 Isle Summer 2013

E

Earlier this year, I had a night away at The Kingston Hotel in Dun Laoghaire.

Located in a listed building that dates back to the late 19th century, this family run hotel is a true hidden gem. The highlight of my stay was waking to dawn breaking over Dublin Bay just outside my window. With 50 rooms, the hotel is an ideal location for weddings or an easy weekend getaway and yet so close to the city. The restaurant in the hotel, Olvieto Osteria, is an Italian restaurant which serves a wide range of delicious dishes including homemade pasta, fresh fish and their wood-fired pizzas. After breakfast I had a bracing and refreshing walk along

Dun Laoghaire pier which offers great views of Howth and the coastline.

On Sundays The People’s Park has a market with an international flair and on Fridays at the top of Marine Road there is an organic market. Plus, there are many local walking tours along with The National Maritime Museum - http://www. mariner.ie/ and Dalkey Castle & Heritage Centre - http://www.dalkeycastle.com/ close by.

Rates at The Kingston Hotel begin at â‚Ź65 (single occupancy) with a wide range of options available including family rooms http://www.kingstonhotel.com

Summer 2013 Isle 19

Country House & Restaurant Nenagh Road, Thurles Co. Tipperary Phone: +353 (0)50451348

www.inchhouse.ie

In the heart of Tipperary - Inch House offers excellent service and the heartiest of welcomes. Our restaurant is open five nights a week serving locally produced food and our award winning black pudding.

Travellers Choice Award 2013

- Trip Advisor

Fill your bags with simple delights

Sweet Pea, Dingle Great Gifts of Ireland

Gifts to take home Stylish housewares ✶ Artwork Pottery ✶ Jewellery ✶ Candles Christmas Ornaments ✶ Crystal

Upper Green Street, Dingle, Co. Kerry +353 (0)66 9150600 sweetpeadingle@gmail.com

www.sweetpeadingle.ie 20 Isle Summer 2013

Stories to Inspire This issue travel to the Dingle Peninsula - meet a family of cheese makers - visit houses, castles and gardens - make summer meals and meet three entrepreneurial siblings.

Summer 2013 Isle 21

Escape to

Dingle

22 Isle Summer 2013

Author Felicity Hayes-McCoy tells us about her experience of living on the Dingle Penninsula Written by Felicity Hayes-McCoy Photographs by Eddie Cleary except where noted

Summer 2013 Isle 23

Y

You can’t beat the Dingle peninsula. I would say that, wouldn’t I, given that I fell in love with it aged seventeen and spent thirty years of my life coming back to it. Not to mention the fact that I now divide my life between a stone house here on a hillside and an innercity flat in a former London jam factory.

But Dingle truly is a remarkable place, and not just because of its stunning physical beauty.

Dingle town is a fishing port surrounded by farmland, so it’s the place to be if you’re looking for local produce. Fenton’s in Green St. is one of my favourite restaurants. I love its welcoming décor which somehow combines a cheerful, airy, sense of the seaside with the warmth and comfort of an Irish country kitchen. It’s run

24 Isle Summer 2013

by Pat Fenton whose grandfather once cured mackerel on the premises, making his own barrels and exporting the fish to Spain and America. His cooper’s anvil, used in the manufacture of the metal hoops that bound the barrels, still stands by the turf fire. Much of the produce used in Fenton’s kitchen has a family flavour too. The beef is sourced from Pat’s brother’s herd of Dingle Dexter cattle, grazed between the mountain and the ocean. Periwinkles are gathered by her nephews and nieces, from the rocks on the shore near her late father’s farm. And her mother grows herbs in the walled garden of a town house, right across the street.

Fentons is just one of Dingle’s great eating places, all of which take pride in the fact that the town hosts Ireland’s Blas na hEireann National Food Awards during the annual Dingle Food and Wine Festival. It’s a town full of interest and entertainment. It has gift shops and bookshops, art galleries and craft shops, boat trips, a marina, a charming cinema,

❝

It’s a town full of interest and entertainment

❝ Summer 2013 Isle 25

an aquarium, and pubs where songs and music raise the rafters nightly.

But for me the best kept secrets on the peninsula can be found in its last eight miles or so, out beyond Dingle town, in the area that’s known locally as ‘back west’.

As it thrusts into the Atlantic, the peninsula tapers to six miles across at its widest point and three at its narrowest. It’s a paradise for photographers. The farther west you go, the more you’re aware of the light and the vast, numinous presence of earth, sky and ocean. A mountain spine, dominated by the majestic bulk of Mt. Brandon, runs westwards into the waves, rising again as seven offshore islands, called the Blaskets. Many tour guides direct you to the breath-taking Slea Head Drive. And it is magnificent. But there are other glorious walks and drives back west, less travelled, and equally spellbinding. And endless joys to discover along the way.

Músaem Chorca Dhuibhne (The West Kerry Museum) in Ballyferriter village is the perfect place to plan your day back west. Housed in an old schoolhouse, its beautifully curated exhibition gives an overview of the archaeology and history of the area; and its pleasant café bookshop offers homemade cakes and books of local interest as well as well-designed leaflets mapping, and describing features on, a series of Heritage Walks.

The language of everyday life here is Irish – 26 Isle Summer 2013

which in Ireland is never called Gaelic! You’ll hear it spoken all around you if you listen, though you’ll probably notice it most on the road signs.

Never be afraid to stop and ask if you find a sign confusing. Everyone you meet will speak English too, and the best tips for where to go and what to do can often be had from someone you happen to chat to. There are mountains to climb and beaches to walk.

There are cafés, shops and the occasional little restaurant, often with outside seating boasting panoramic views. In Dún Chaoin (Dunquin) there’s the Blasket Centre, where you can learn about life on the

Summer 2013 Isle 27

islands: in good weather you can take a boat trip to the beautiful, deserted Great Blasket, where a ruined village huddles among grasses and wildflowers above sheer, windswept cliffs.

Back on the mainland, in villages like Baile an Fheirtéaraigh (Ballyferriter), Ceann Trá (Ventry) and Baile na nGall (Ballydavid), you can eat your lunch in small, friendly pubs.

Look out for homemade brown breads and chowders and locally brewed beer. Or hire a bike and set off on a picnic - the post office shop in Ventry has a great deli counter, sells teas and coffees, and has an internet access service if you need to check your mail. But don’t check your mail. Relax instead and live life to a different rhythm. Nothing back west can be hurried, so take your time and see what happens. If you’re lucky you may see dolphins or basking sharks. Sometimes there’ll be music in the pubs, made by the people who live here, just for their own entertainment. You might find you’ve arrived in time for Ventry’s International Horseshoe Throwing Competition, the annual Blessing of the Boats in Brandon, or the horse racing on Béal Bán beach. And you’ll be sure to want to stay another night.

If you do, you’ve a wealth of choices – from hostels and self-catered rentals to accommodation over pubs and in 28 Isle Summer 2013

farmhouses, Bed & Breakfasts, Guesthouses and hotels. One good plan is to base yourself to the north-western side, one of the least travelled areas back west. Only ten minutes drive from Dingle town, An Riasc B&B, in Feothanach, is a hidden gem. It provides four star bed and breakfast accommodation in the Begley family’s farmhouse home, its four bedrooms are beautifully decorated, the surroundings are spectacular and its wonderfully presented home cooking is to die for. Denise, the owner, does evening meals as well, and even offers suggestions for her guests’ entertainment, including trips with Seaview Equestrian, a horseback trekking business professionally run by a friendly young couple at a nearby farm.

But please note that all these recommendations come with a warning! This area can literally change your life. I ended up living here, having returned again and again to stay at Gormans Clifftop House, a five star Guesthouse and restaurant, overlooking the sweep of Smerwick Harbour, that’s also the family home of its owners, Síle and Vincent Gorman. To me it epitomizes everything that’s on offer here back west. Hospitality. Comfort.

Kindness. Generosity. Beauty. And real nourishment – not just for the body but also for the soul and for the mind.

❝

This area can literally change your life

❝ Summer 2013 Isle 29

The blue ceiling in their sitting room in Dingle.

At Home In

DINGLE

Felicity with Joanna Lumley.

“Fresh, daring and blazingly beautiful, this book is the taste of something we all once knew, ever-present if only you look for it.

Enchanting.” – Joanna Lumley

30 Isle Summer 2013

Photographs by Felicity Hayes-McCoy

Felicity Hayes-McCoy was born in Dublin.

She read English and Irish Language and literature at UCD before moving to England in the 1970’s to train at the Drama Studio, London. Her work as a writer includes television and radio drama, features, documentaries, dramatizations and adaptations; screenplays; music theatre; children’s books, and interactive multimedia product.

She and her husband, opera director Wilfred Judd, live in Corca Dhuibhne and in Bermondsey, London. She blogs about life in both places on her website – www. felicityhayesmccoy.co.uk

Entrance to the bedroom

We have a signed copy of Felicity’s book The House on an Irish Hillside (Hodder & Stoughton, 2012), to give away to 1 lucky reader. To enter to win, simply email us at info@ islemagazine.com – put Felicity in subject line – and tell us why you love Ireland so much. Is it the food, the landscape, the people? And if you’ve never visited – why do you want to?

Emails must be received by: 14th August, 2013 to be eligible to win.

Looking through to the kitchen.

Summer 2013 Isle 31

An Artist Home

C

Contemporary artist Jenny McCarthy lives in the remote village of Ventry about fifteen minutes west of Dingle, Co Kerry. She works with oil on canvas and her paintings depict the dramatic scenery on the west coast of Ireland. The sky in her paintings takes up two-thirds of her canvas -the sky plays such a powerful role in this part of the country- making the viewer feel like they are on the beach themselves.

She chooses to use a limited palette for her work and is influenced by Monet for colour and Turner for light.

Her landscapes and beach scenes are a series she started 10 years ago and is part of a larger portfolio that includes an Armada Series and Sailboat Series.

“Coming from a family of artists, painting and drawing was just a natural part of our childhood which I continue to pass along to my own children” said Jenny recently from her studio in Ventry “and I have worked with our local primary school to provide art workshops for the children. This is done on a philanthropic noncommercial basis as part of imparting real world artist skills to children” You can view more of Jenny’s work on her website, www.ventrybeach.com along with an inspiring video about her work and what her work means to others.

32 Isle Summer 2013

COMPETITION If you are planning visit to the Dingle Peninsula, Jenny would like to invite you to visit her Art studio in Ventry. To WIN the chance for you and up to 5 friends to meet Jenny in person and visit her studio, email ISLE magazine at info@islemagazine.com – put Jenny in subject line and tell us why this would mean so much to you – do you have roots in the area, for example?

Emails must be received by 31st August 2013.

Summer 2013 Isle 33

Visiting dingle Once you hit Tralee and the windmill at Blennerville - you are on the Dingle Peninsula. There are two routes to get to the town itself but we highly recommend that on a good day that you take the Conor’s Pass route to Dingle as it has the most breathtaking views of the area. Yes, it’s a bit nerve wracking if you are afraid of heights and narrow roads but with patience and persistence – we assure you, it is well worth it.

Of course the Dingle’s most famous resident is Fungie the Dolphin, who has been living in Dingle Harbour for 30 years, so you’ll see lots of references to him around town. http://www.dingledolphin.com/ There are so many things one can do when you get to this part of Kerry that we just can’t list them all here so we’d recommend stopping into the Dingle Tourist Office on the quay right in the centre of town. It will give you an idea of the range of activities, shops, museums, restaurants, potteries and even breweries or distilleries there are to visit.

Tel: +353 (0)66 9151188 www. discoverireland.ie/kerry

Do check out the ISLE magazine blog for more things to do in Dingle! www.islemagazine.com

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Don’t miss The Save the Date: ns stival which ru Dingle Food Fe 13. For more 4-6 October 20 out events, information ab demonstrations tickets, cooking ://www. and more: http m/ dinglefood.co

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The

cheese

Business

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The Grubb Family in Tipperary has the art of cheese making running through their veins Written by Lisa McGee Photography by PAUL SHERWOOD

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I

I’m not sure when I first tasted Cashel Blue, but it was long before I moved to Ireland permanently. Little did I know that one day I’d be living so close to Cashel where this delicious blue cheese is made by the Grubb family. Sarah Furno, who is the daughter of Louis and Jane Grubb (and is now running the show along with her husband Sergio and cousin Louis), told me about the history of this world renowned cheese and how it all got started.

In 1978, Louis Grubb along with his wife Jane and daughter Sarah returned to Tipperary from the west of Ireland where Louis has managed an agricultural research centre to run Beechmount Farm, after his father’s death. Louis established a dairy herd and in a few short years Jane started to experiment with making different types of cheese using a book she borrowed from the library and her mother in laws copper jam preserving pan.

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After four years, in 1984, Cashel Blue, the original Irish Farmhouse cow’s milk blue cheese was established and initially sold in the country market. It was developed at a time when softer blue cheeses were a rarity in the English speaking world so Cashel Blue truly set the trend as an alternative to the traditional and stronger Blue Stilton.

It is traditionally made in 1.5kg wheels (or thereabouts) and packaged in gold foil with a simple black and white label along with a sketch of the Rock of Cashel in the background. The Rock of Cashel is a medieval castle that was once the seat of the Kings of Munster and where lore has it that St Patrick commenced the conversion of the pagan Irish to Christianity by using a shamrock to explain the Holy Trinity, giving birth to one of Ireland’s national symbols. Cashel Blue is named after this historic castle.

Flash forward another ten years and in

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she borrowed from the library and her mother in laws copper jam preserving pan

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I am fortunate to have grown up with real food straight from the earth

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1993, a new cheese, Crozier Blue, was introduced to the range. This was thanks to the Grubb’s nephew Henry Clifton Brown, who, at this time, took on the mighty job of breeding a flock of milking sheep at Ballinamona Farm which is overlooked by the Rock of Cashel.

Crozier Blue is made to the same recipe as Cashel Blue, but from the setting of the curds to the maturing of the wheels it is a very different cheese as a result of the richer, sweeter character of the grass fed ewe’s milk. The name Crozier (or Crook) refers to the hooked staff either carried by a bishop as of pastoral office or by a shepard. The name Crozier Blue is a play on the fact that Crozier Blue is a sheep’s milk cheese and that it is in Cashel that St. Patrick converted the Irish. In fact, St Patrick’s “crozier” can be seen today in the Rock of Cashel.

More recently, they’ve introduced a

Cashel Cream Cheese and an even newer introduction, Shepard’s Store, which is their first semi-hard ewe’s milk cheese with a longer shelf life. Undoubtedly we can only look forward to even more exciting introductions in the future.

When speaking about her parents, Sarah told me, “I am so proud of my parents in that through their commitment, vision and creativity they have ensured a future not only for our family from our farm but also for that of many local people who work with us. Cheese making keeps us grounded and gives us a sense of place but our cheeses travel widely and we always share a smile at the lovely stories we hear back from blue cheese converts near and far, young and old. I am fortunate to have grown up with real food straight from the earth and therefore to have a heightened sense of flavour and freshness, my earliest cheese memory is that of bags of curd hanging from Spring 2012 Isle 41

the clothes aired in the kitchen! Such experience brings food to life, I am a great believer that to ensure a continuance of quality natural food we need to take every opportunity to expose our children to each stage in where our food comes from through animal husbandry, gardening, foraging, cooking and tasting. Food is not fuel it is a great way to live life!�

Sarah and her husband Sergio, are introducing the third generation, their 42 Isle Spring 2013

own children Luca (9) Anna (6) and Leila (9mths) to the world of cheese and one can only hope that they will carry on the tradition with the same enthusiasm and foresight.

To find a stockist near you, read more about their cheeses and or history of the business or see their recipes – please visit their website: http://www.cashelblue.com/

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Food is not fuel it is a great way to live life!

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Sibling

Success

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The history of Lisnavagh House and the land surrounding it has inspired three siblings to carve their own niches in business and in life Photography by Tom Doherty Written by Lisa McGee

Lisnavagh House, located a short distance from Carlow town and close to the village of Rathvilly, has been in the Bunbury family since the 1670’s spanning eleven generations. The farmyard, built in the 1850, is located about 1km from the main house and was built from cut stone granite and slate. By 1860 it had evolved into one of the most efficient and advanced

farms in the country. The house itself was considerably larger at one stage, however, to save it and make it more affordable to run –the house was considerably reduced in size in 1952.

Today, the estate of Lisnavagh includes the main house, several cottages, grazing land for cattle and tillage land for maize, barley and wheat. There are over 200 acres of

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woodland including mainly hardwood trees such as oak, ash and beech. Three generations of Bunbury’s continue to live on the estate. William Bunbury, the eldest son of Benjamin and Jessica Rathdonnell, lives in the main house with his wife Emily and their three children Rosie, Alice and Tom. He became managing partner of the estate in 2006 after returning from Lancashire in 2000. His younger brother Turtle Bunbury lives with his wife Ally and their children Jemima and Bay on the estate as does his sister Sasha Sykes who lives with her husband Tom and their children Ben and Elinor. Another brother, Andrew Bunbury lives Summer 2013 Isle 47

From left: William Bunbury, Sasha Sykes and Turtle Bunbury

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in County Down where he works as a landscape architect. Their parents also continue to live on the estate as well.

In addition to the woodlands and meadows, the property has extensive gardens which were designed originally in the 1850’s by Daniel Robertson (who designed Johnstown Castle and the gardens at Powerscourt among others). Thanks to the passion and devotion of Lady Rathdonnell, much restoration work has gone into the gardens over the years so that can be enjoyed by generations to come.

William and Emily are entrusted with the care of this estate. One of the more recent ventures they’ve undertaken is to host weddings at Lisnavagh.

Couples can rent out the main house, cottages and stables (which have been deftly converted into bedrooms) and avail of the marquee erected on the grounds to celebrate in a very special way. William and Emily have local caterers that they work with and are very involved with the lead up to these gatherings. Thankfully this has proven the right path to go down in regards to generating income for the upkeep of the property.

For more about Lisnavagh House, visit: http:// www.lisnavagh.com Summer 2013 Isle 49

William Bunbury

Lisnavagh Timber Project and Bunbury Boards William started the Lisnavagh Timber Project in 2001 by selling planks of timber to furniture makers. In three short years a workshop was added along with a kiln and office and he was then able to sell bespoke joinery pieces such as kitchen worktops, shelves and tabletops.

Then looking to create a range of products– Bunbury Boards was launched in the autumn of 2008.

Today the range includes over thirty different boards and each piece of wood comes with its own “story” and has a unique code to tell you what tree it came from and what has been done to replace that tree. In a very short time the boards have made an international impact.

They now make the Harrod’s Cheese Board which they’ve been supplying for several months now and are deep in discussions with Mark’s & Spencer’s with the hope to begin supplying some of their top stores in the UK this autumn. As with any company, product design needs to keep evolving so prototypes for a new Carving Board are already underway and plans to launch a new range of items for the kitchen is imminent. To see the entire range, visit: www.bunburyboards.com

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Sasha Sykes Furniture Designer

It is the land and Irish countryside surrounding Lisnavagh house that provides great inspiration for Sasha in her work at her company Farm 21 which was founded in 2001.

Working with acrylics and resins she embeds simple materials from nature into her art.

It all started with a Straw Cube which she made for her father’s 60th birthday and the positive reaction she received spurred her on to create more concepts. When asking why she is drawn to these natural elements she told me, “I am a huge supporter of the underdog and I am really interested in those aspects of our surroundings that often go unnoticed or uncelebrated. I love the Irish countryside so much and I think having been separated from it periodically and having that urban perspective and nostalgia for it, has affirmed the love for life! “ Farm 21 has just the right balance between commercial and artistic work to suit her. She told me, “I think it is really important to keep pushing the boundaries an experimenting with new work which may or may not be well received.” In the future she’d love to work with a biochemist to develop a non-petrochemical water clear casting resin (anyone out there?).

And in regards to what it’s like to be living back on the family estate after years abroad both in London and New York she said, “It’s beautiful, unique and truly one of the most special places in the world. I know how unbelievably lucky I was to grow up at Lisnavagh, so it’s only natural to want some of that for my own kids. I know it inside out but I’m particularly fond of the woods. There are places I’ll stumble upon that I remember being at 30 years ago and I love to see and feel the change. There are 50 acres fields and I know I’ve walked every metre because I pulled wild oats there when I was a teenager. Also 85% of my family are here (we miss the brother up north!) which is really wonderful. “ To see more of Sasha’s work visit: www. farm21.co.uk 52 Isle Summer 2013

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Turtle Bunbury

Author, Historian and TV Presenter Growing up at Lisnavagh, surrounded by history, is what converted Turtle into a historian from an early age. He told me he was curious to know more about the people in the portraits that hung on the walls.

“Ireland is a fantastic place to be a historian because it’s not just the story of Ireland – it’s also the story of the Irish abroad and our exceptional impact all over the world,” he told me. The history of Lisnavagh and the Bunbury family are extensive subjects and Turtle has uploaded a highly detailed account of it all on his website.

This fascination with history spurred Turtle on to begin his series of books on Vanishing Ireland. When his father was a boy, over seventy men were employed on the estate. During Turtle’s own childhood many of them, although retired, still lived locally. When Turtle returned to Ireland in 1998 after a few years in Hong Kong, the country was booming and he felt the “oldtimers” were getting left behind. This spurred him on to capture some of these characters in photographs and stories.

Ultimately he teamed up with a childhood friend, the photographer James Fennell, and the first of the Vanishing Ireland books was born. The fourth volume in the series is due out in October. In addition, he’s published his book, The Irish Pub, again with James Fennell, which sought to capture the essence of some of Ireland’s wonderful old pubs which are also now an endangered species.

Turtle is also involved in numerous other ventures including the annual History Festival of Ireland, which, inspired by his brother Andrew, aims to “blow some of the dust and cobwebs off what is generally considered an academic subject and try and show the wider public how utterly fascinating and colourful the past is.” He is also the creator of Wistorial, a fresh photogenic and popular way of making the extraordinary stories of the past come to life for a 21st century audience. Check it out at https://www.facebook.com/Wistorical For more on the extensive history of Lisnavagh House, Turtle’s numerous projects and books visit: http://www. turtlebunbury.com. And for more on photographer James Fennell: http://jamesfennell.com/ 54 Isle Summer 2013

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Visiting

History

Bantry House, Bantry, Co. Cork Phone: +353 (0)27 50047 | http://www.bantryhouse.com/bantryhouse/

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This summer we encourage you to visit to a property listed on the Houses, Castles & Gardens website. These are some that are particularly known for their gardens.

Oakfield Park, Oakfield Demesne, Raphoe, Co. Donegal Phone: +353 (0) 74 9173068 | http://www.oakfieldpark.com/

Irish National Stud - Japanese Gardens – St. Fiachra’s Gardens, Tullly, Co. Kildare Phone: +353 (0) 45 521617 | http://irishnationalstud.ie/

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Mount Usher, Ashford, Co. Wicklow Phone: +353 (0)4 0440205 | http://www.mountushergardens.ie/

Powerscourt Gardens, Powerscourt Estate, Co. Wicklow Phone: +353(0) 1 2046000 | http://www.powerscourt.ie/ 58 Isle Spring 2013

Kilruddery House and Garden, Southern Cross Road, Bray, Co. Wicklow Phone: +353 (0)1 2863405 | http://www.killruddery.com/

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Brigit’s Garden, Pollagh, Roscahill, Co. Galway Phone: +353 (0)91 55095 | http://www.brigitsgarden.ie/

Lodge Par Phon

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rk Walled Garden & Steam Museum, Straffan, Co. Kildare ne: +353 (0)1 6288412 | http://www.steam-museum.com/

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Kilfane Glen & Waterfall, Thomastown, Co. Kilkenny Phone: +353 (0)56 7727105 | http://www.kilfane.com/

Castle Durrow, Durrow, Co. Laois Phone: +353 (0)57 8736555; http://www.castledurrow.com/

Houses, Castles & Gardens of Ireland Ltd (HCGI) is a subscription based organization with 72 properties that are members throughout the island of Ireland. HCGI was founded 42 years ago to promote visiting great houses, castles and gardens that are open to the public. To find a property near you and for more about visiting hours, admission costs, excursions, profiles, events, wedding venues and even film locations – go to their website: www.hcgi.ie

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Summer Cooking

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Clodagh McKenna delves into her kitchen diary to bring us fresh summer recipes Written by Clodagh McKenna Photography by Kate Whitaker (Excerpted from Kitchen Diaries, Kyle Books ©2012)

A

As I write this book I think to myself, so why a diary? Well, the last few years it has felt like someone has pushed the fast forward on my life. I am always on the move. I love change and new experiences, and luckily for me my work is all about that. The only thing is, with all the frantic pace I do forget details of these wonderful experiences. The diary started as an itinerary – come-memory aid but has ended up being so much more.

So back to my original question: why a diary? Reading back over the last year I realise it is not just a record of meals eaten or events attended. Each page is filled with memories of the people I celebrated and shared food with and the wonderful laces I have lived and eaten in, from Dublin, London, NYC, Italy and France. Here’s to another great year and many more meals to come.

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Scotch Eggs Makes 4

To Make Put the eggs in a pan of cold water over a high heat and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for exactly 7 minutes. Drain and cool the eggs under cold running water, then remove the shells.

Put the sausagemeat in a large mixing bowl with the thyme, parsley, mustard, lemon zest and spring onion. Season with salt and pepper and mix well together until the ingredients are combined.

Dust your hands with flour and take a quarter of the sausage mixture at a time. Roll the meat into a ball and put it on a piece of clingfilm and press slightly. Cover with another sheet of clingfilm and gently roll out into a circle about 5cm across. Remove the top sheet of clingfilm and put a boiled egg in the centre of the sausage mixture circle. Close the sausage mixture around the egg using the clingfilm underneath as an aid and reshape until you have the perfect egg shape. Remove all the clingfilm. Repeat with the remaining eggs and sausage mixture. Put the beaten egg in one bowl and the breadcrumbs in another bowl.

Dip each Scotch egg into the beaten egg, then roll it in the breadcrumbs. Put a shallow pan over a medium heat and pour in the oil until it is about two-thirds full. When it is hot carefully drop in the Scotch eggs and fry them for 10 minutes, turning every few minutes to make sure they are evenly fried. Remove from the oil and drain on kitchen paper. Serve at room temperature.

Ingredients 4 eggs 240g sausagemeat 1 teaspoon finely chopped thyme leaves 1 tablespoon finely chopped flatleaf parsley 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard zest of 1 lemon 1 spring onion, finely chopped 1 egg, beaten 120g plain flour 120g very fine breadcrumbs rape seed or sunflower oil, for shallow frying sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

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Crab Cakes with Lime and Tomato Guacamole Makes 4 cakes

Ingredients For the Crab Cakes 2 slices of good-quality bread, made into rough breadcrumbs 400g white crab meat 2 tablespoons mayonnaise drop of Worcestershire sauce 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 dessertspoon finely chopped dill juice and zest of 1 lemon butter, for frying sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the Guacamole 1 ripe avocado 1 ripe plum tomato 1 garlic clove, crushed 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

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To Make The Crab Cakes Put all the ingredients, except the butter, in a bowl and season to taste with salt and pepper. Mix well and form the crab mixture into 4 round patties. Put a frying or griddle pan over a medium heat and add the butter. When the butter begins to foam add the crab cakes and cook for 3 minutes. Turn them over and cook for a further 2 minutes. They should be golden in colour.

Serve with Lime Guacamole.

The Guacomole Cut the avocado in half and discard the stone. Scoop out the flesh and cut it into small cubes. Chop the plum tomatoes into similar sized cubes. Put the tomato and avocado in a bowl, mix in the garlic, lime juice, olive oil and coriander and mix together well. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover with clingfilm immediately because the avocado will quickly discolour.

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Summer Grilled Shrimp, Avocado and Mango Salad Serves 4 as a starter or 2 as a main course

To Make

Ingredients

To make the marinade, mix together half the lime juice and zest, the chilli and half the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and add the shrimps, tossing them to coat completely.

1 small red chilli, finely chopped

Leave to marinate for 15 minutes. If you are using bamboo skewers, now is the time to soak them in water for 15 minutes so that they do not burn while the food cooks. Thread the marinated shrimps on to the skewers. Heat the barbecue or grill to medium, or put a frying pan or griddle pan over a medium heat. Grill or fry the shrimps for about 1 minute each side until they are pink and cooked through.

Set aside and keep warm. To make the salad dressing, whisk the Dijon mustard with the remaining lime juice and zest and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Arrange the rocket, avocado and mango on a serving plate, place the shrimp skewers on top, drizzle with the dressing and serve.

juice and zest of 1 lime

50ml extra virgin olive oil 16 medium-sized shrimps, shelled and deveined 1 teaspoon of Dijon mustard 200g rocket leaves 1 avocado, peeled and diced 1 large ripe mango, peeled and diced sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

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Moroccan Orange Cake Serves 8

To Make Preheat the oven to 180ºC/gas mark 4. Line the base and grease and flour a 20.5 × 5cm round cake tin. Mix together the breadcrumbs, sugar, almonds and baking powder. Whisk the oil with the eggs, then pour the egg mixture into the dry ingredients and mix well.

Add the orange and lemon zests. Pour the mixture into the cake tin and cook in the oven for 45–60 minutes or until the cake is golden brown. Check that the cake is cooked by inserting a skewer into the centre; if it’s ready the skewer should come out clean. Allow to cool for 5 minutes before turning out on to a wire rack. Meanwhile, make the citrus syrup. Put all the ingredients into a saucepan and bring gently to the boil, stirring until the sugar has dissolved completely.

Simmer for 3 minutes. Remove the cinnamon stick and cloves from the syrup. While the cake is still warm, pierce it several times with a skewer, then spoon the hot syrup over the cake, allowing it to run into the holes. Leave to cool. Spoon any excess syrup back over the cake every now and then until it is all soaked up. Serve with whipped cream or a dollop of thick Greek yogurt, if liked.

Ingredients For the chops 50g slightly stale white breadcrumbs 200g caster sugar 100g ground almonds 1 teaspoon baking powder 200ml sunflower oil 4 eggs finely grated zest of 1 large unwaxed orange finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon whipped cream or Greek yogurt, to serve (optional)

For the citrus syrup juice of 1 unwaxed orange juice of 1 unwaxed lemon 75g caster sugar 1 cinnamon stick 2 cloves

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More on

Clodagh

It’s hard to keep up with Clodagh McKenna these days – her restaurant in Blackrock Village just opened and she’s recently hit the US by storm with her television series, Clodagh’s Irish Food Trails, which aired on PBS and Create TV. In March of this year Clodagh teamed up with Tour Ireland (www.tourireland.com) to launch her Gourmet Food Tour (http:// www.tourireland.com/selfdriv etours/?category=2&tour=82).

Reservations Manager, Liz Aungier, at Tour Ireland saw a gap in the market and approached Clodagh about the idea. Now foodie fanatics can do a selfdrive tour and visit all Clodagh’s favourite towns and markets around the country tasting and enjoying local product.

Clodagh is the author of four cookbooks to date – Kitchen Diaries is her most recent. Her first, The Irish Farmer’s Market Cookbook was published in 2006. Fresh From the Sea in 2009 and Homemade in 2010.

For more on Clodagh; visit her website http://www.clodaghmckenna.com/

Just Opened: Clodagh’s Kitchen Blackrock Village Tel: +353 (0)1 2122981 In Arnott’s Department Store (both only open during the day) Henry Street, Dublin 2nd floor: Clodagh’s Kitchen Tel: +353 (0)1 8050590 1st floor: Homemade by Clodagh Tel: +353 (0)1 8050594

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