Isthmus Dining : Spring 2014 by Isthmus

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Julia Burke, André Darlington, Linda Falkenstein, Carolyn Fath, Erin Hanusa, Nicole Malena, David Michael Miller, Paulius Musteikis, Kyle Nabilcy, Adam Powell, Marcelle Richards, Sarah Rose Smiley, Paul Stroede, Sharon Vanorny, Ryan Wisniewski, Tommy Washbush

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DINING FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD!

CONTENTS 12 months of meals

Isthmus makes the rounds of the latest restaurants. PAGE 6

Hot enough for ya? A survey of the area’s spiciest grub. By André Darlington. PAGE 12

Search: Optimized A systematic way to find the right place to dine. By Linda Falkenstein.

PAGE 18

Late-night cravings Snacks for night owls, all over town. By Kyle Nabilcy. PAGE 20

Hipsters, happy hours, hummus, hash browns and heritage pork Travelers, don’t miss these Mad City must-visits. By Adam Powell. PAGE 26

Sichuan Immersion

A closer look at Fugu Asian Fusion. By Julia Burke. PAGE 30

The Guide... Master list of Isthmus Dining advertisers and mentioned restaurants, plus winners of the Madison’s Favorites poll. And a map. It’s pretty and helpful. PAGE 36

2014 Calendar of Wisconsin Food Festivals Comfort me with apples...and maple syrup, krumkake, morels, haggis, watermelon, pierogies, Bienenstich, fry bread.... PAGE 44 On the cover: Mix and match skewers from Next Door Brewing on Atwood Avenue are sausage with Pickapeppa Sauce, local mushrooms with balsamic glaze, and cured and spiced chicken hearts, grilled, and served with pico de gallo. Photography by Paulius Musteikis. ISTHMUS DINING k 2014

Twelve months of meals From bistros to taprooms

Over the last 12 months, our reviewers have grazed all around the city. They’ve found worthy food and drink in Mexican markets, East Towne Mall and an industrial park off Stoughton Road, in addition to more expected locations downtown, east, west, north and south. Here’s a recap, with hat-tips to some of our favorite noshes.

608 Restaurant & Bar 212 State St., Madison

A Wisconsin-style tavern with an emphasis on local ingredients, plus liquor. PICKS: Corn chowder, 608 Burger, onion rings; Old Sugar product in the cocktails.

— ANDRÉ DARLINGTON

Banzo

2105 Sherman Ave., Madison The falafel food cart has expanded to a full restaurant near Maple Bluff. PICKS: Falafel, falafel with eggplant, chicken schnitzel, tabouli, lentil soup.

— ANDRÉ DARLINGTON

Bassett Street Brunch Club

444 W. Johnson St., Madison A brunch-all-day spot on the ground floor of the new Hampton Inn, with floor-toceiling windows, a bar and a U-shaped diner counter. PICKS: Horchata latte, fried chicken and biscuit, shrimp and grits, butternut and blue salad.

— LINDA FALKENSTEIN

Belle Pizzelle European Bakery and Cafe 300 East Towne Mall, B-140, Madison

Outside of the food court, this cozy bistro is a welcome respite from traditional mall fare. PICKS: Pelmeni beef dumplings.

— JULIA BURKE

Buck & Badger

115 State St., Madison Up-north, lodge-style dining with a pleasant fireplace and worthy list of local tap beers. PICKS: Cheeseburger, fried chicken, apple cider glazed carrots.

— LINDA FALKENSTEIN

Note: With a growing number of restaurants focusing on seasonal ingredients, menus now change frequently, and not all items may still be available. 6

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Cheba Hut

453 W. Gilman St., Madison Cheba Hut offers six vegetarian subs, 10 meat “deli classics,” five “old school” flavors (also meat), five grilled chicken subs and five salads. Picks: The Pakalolo sub with ham, pineapple and green bell peppers; the Kind, with turkey, mushrooms, bacon and Swiss; the Jamaican Red, a spicy chicken breast sandwich; the Silver Haze hummus sandwich.

— Marcelle Richards

Colectivo Coffee Roasters 25 S. Pinckney St., Madison

The newest location for Milwaukee-based Colectivo is on the Square in Tenney Plaza, and it wants to be your destination for almost everything downtown: Brewed coffee, coffee beans, Wi-Fi, smoothies, breakfast, lunch, dessert and even a beer after work. Picks: Pour-overs, lemon-blueberry scone, smoothies, house beer.

— Kyle Nabilcy

Crandall’s

334 State St., Madison The long-time favorite is back downtown, this time in the location formerly occupied by Chautara. There’s a new Peruvian menu, though the famous fish fry has been retained. Picks: Empanadas, ceviche, salchipapas, fish fry.

— André Darlington

Crostini

231 North St., Madison A sandwich shop with more personal attention to your food than you’ll get from a chain. Picks: Italian beef, meatball sub, TexMex pasta, panini.

— Linda Falkenstein

Dhaba Indian Bistro

8333 Greenway Blvd., Middleton Dhaba, the Indian term for what we might call a truck-stop diner, makes its own modifications to the typical Indian-American menu and is a sight more dressed up than a truck stop. Vindaloo and masala, tandoori and biryani — yes, your favorites are all here. Picks: Lobster korma, lamb biryani, karhi pakora, kheer.

— Kyle Nabilcy

Grampa’s Pizzeria

1374 Williamson St., Madison Inside Grampa’s whitewashed cinderblock façade is a surprising elegance, blending warm industrial and bygone-era touches. Dark walls, gorgeous multihued wood floors, Edison bulb sconces, salvaged pressed-tin ceilings and a cozy copper bar delineate an intimate space. Picks: The pork confit and caprese starters; the Barberini pizza; sticky ginger cake; ice cream sandwiches.

— Erin Hanusa

Heritage Tavern

House of Brews

Heritage Tavern is both cozy and elegant. Vintage details like ceiling rosettes, white hex tile and retro serving pieces add nostalgic charm. The menu is heavily tilted toward sharing, due both to the first courses’ overall heaviness and the generously sized portions. In keeping with chef Dan Fox’s reputation as a pork connoisseur, meat eaters will find lots to love. Picks: Great Lakes whitefish filet, pork schnitzel, beef rib loin, gianduja chocolate tart.

Page Buchanan’s taproom off Stoughton Road offers no food. Almost in spite of itself, the taproom succeeds and draws a massive beer-geek crowd for one simple reason: The beer is great.

131 E. Mifflin St., Madison

4539 Helgesen Dr., Madison

— Erin Hanusa

— Kyle Nabilcy

Karben4

3698 Kinsman Blvd., Madison Karben4 has teamed up with the Underground Food Collective to offer a modest but fun food menu and is currently serving up some of the buzziest beers in town. Picks: Grilled cheese, with versions featuring either cucumber and tomato or tomato jam and onions; Polish sausage sandwich; summer sausage sandwich.

— Kyle Nabilcy

Janchi quksu at Sol’s on the Square (far left, photo by Nicole Malena); chicken, biscuits and gravy (and a fried egg) at Bassett Street Brunch Club (above, photo by Linda Falkenstein); the smoked salmon sandwich at Colectivo (photo by Carolyn Fath).

Isthmus Dining k 2014

Try some tandoori at Minerva. (Photo by Ryan Wisniewski)

Nonno’s Ristorante Italiano 704 S. Whitney Way, Madison

There are big portions, and good depth of flavor, at this old-school Italian spot in Whitney Square. Picks: Risi e bisi, bistecca a piacere, farfalle Piemontese, grilled salmon.

— Kyle Nabilcy

Novanta

8452 Old Sauk Rd., Madison Novanta offers red and white Neapolitan pizzas with a variety of toppings; there’s also an option to build your own pizza. It features a mozzarella bar, with a selection of olive oil and extras, and a few panini and salads, with a modest selection of beer and wine, too. It’s all done carryout style in the small, narrow cafe, with a register up front and friendly service if you choose to eat in. Picks: Mozzarella bar, pizza, Nutella dessert pizza.

— Julia Burke

One Barrel Brewing Co. 2001 Atwood Ave., Madison

KJ’s Curry Bowl

Marrakesh

Fare consists of nachos, burritos, quesadillas, stir-fries, fajita bowls and milkshakes. However, at the back of the menu, where there is a short list of curries, KJ’s reveals itself to be a Sri Lankan establishment — one of only a handful in the United States. Picks: Satay; curries (chicken and potato, chicken, potato, dahl and green bean); Saturday-only Sri Lankan specials like chicken kottu.

Moroccan and Mediterranean cuisine in a beautifully updated space (formerly the Shish Cafe). Picks: Mohamara, zaluuk, harira, lamb shawarma.

7005 Tree Lane, Madison

5510 University Ave., Madison

— André Darlington

La Nena/Fruteria Ali inside Mercadito Madison 3559 E. Washington Ave., Madison

Inside a pleasant mercadito is La Nena, a counter that offers takeout tacos, tortas, gorditas and huaraches. A second counter called Fruteria Ali is set up to make raspados (snow cones), fruit parfaits, smoothies and juices. Picks: The suadero (steak) and papas con chorizo tacos; panbaso; huarache with huevos con chorizo; the diablito, a spicy tamarind raspado.

— Linda Falkenstein

La Taguara

3502 E. Washington Ave., Madison Wisconsin’s only Venezuelan restaurant is a modest but cheerful dining room. Picks: Pabellon, the Venezuelan national dish, with shredded beef, black beans, rice and deep-fried plantains; arepa, empanadas or pastelitos.

— Linda Falkenstein

Isthmus Dining k 2014

— André Darlington

Minerva Indian Cuisine 515 Junction Rd., Madison

Minerva’s specialty is the food of Hyderabad, the capital of the southeastern Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. The food of this diverse region — a mix of influences from the Persians, Turks, Mughals and British — is full of spices and pickles, rice and meats. There are also Tamil dishes and a few from Malabar and Pakistan. Picks: Cut mirchi, 20 types of dosa, lamb mango, shrimp moilee.

— André Darlington

Next Door Brewing

2439 Atwood Ave., Madison The taproom for the nanobrewery has a cool, semi-finished-basement vibe, with golden wood, painted cinderblocks and wall-mounted TV cabinets. The orange and blue color scheme is warm and slightly retro. And there’s a real live menu, serving plates large and small, with nightly flourishes that may be gone the next. Picks: The Atwood burger, poutine, mix-and-match skewers, ssam pork sandwich.

— Kyle Nabilcy

There’s a house-brewed tap list and a food menu with offerings from neighboring restaurants, including Stalzy’s Deli and Tex Tubb’s. Picks: Fraboni’s frozen pizzas; a selection of cheeses and Underground cured meats; piragi buns from Stalzy’s.

— Kyle Nabilcy

Paul’s Pel’meni

203 W. Gorham St., Madison There’s a small dining area for dumplings, to take out or eat in. Picks: Pelmeni (potato, beef or a mixed order) with a yellow curry sauce.

— Julia Burke

Pesce Spada Mediterraneo is one of the prime pastas at Nonno’s. (Photo by Sarah Rose Smiley)

The focus is on great beer at House of Brews. (Photo by Sharon Vanorny)

Sol’s on the Square

Surco Peruvian

Sol’s serves the traditional Korean cuisine starting with banchan, a foursome of pickled yellow radish, funky fried tofu strips, gloriously tangy pickled cucumber and a devilishly zingy kimchi. The flavors are clean and refreshing, the textures addictive. Picks: Ddeokbokki (dumplings), bibimbap, gimbap, bulgogi, budae jjigae.

A new brick-and-mortar restaurant for the Library Mall food cart. Picks: Aji de gallina (shredded chicken blended with cheese and mild yellow chilis); lomo saltado al pisco (grilled beef tenderloin in a soy-sauce glaze, bell peppers and onions); pescado a lo macho (shrimp, clams, mussels and octopus); roasted pork and beef tenderloin sandwiches.

117 E. Mifflin St., Madison

— André Darlington

The Spot

827 E. Johnson St., Madison The Spot seems a perfect fit for this sometimes overlooked east-side location. The price points are sane, the ambiance is cozy, the fare is approachable, and the mood is relaxing yet upbeat. Elegant wooden tables are cheerful during the day and beautiful to behold at night. During the warmer months, dining will overflow onto the back patio. Picks: Bibb salad, albondigas, Spot burger, churrasco beef with chimichurri, chicken paprikash; good cocktail and wine list.

— André Darlington

515 Cottage Grove Rd., Madison

— Kyle Nabilcy

Taqueria El Jalapeño

1318 S. Midvale Blvd., Madison El Jalapeño serves food that should make you feel good, like you’re in someone’s home, in a cozy little space on Midvale at the Beltline. Picks: Molcajete El Jalapeño (chicken, pork, shrimp, chorizo, steak, pickled carrots, cactus and cheese); lengua taco; carnitas (pork).

— Kyle Nabilcy

That BBQ Joint

1511 Williamson St., Madison Small, friendly, mostly takeout barbecue spot, with limited eat-in seating. Picks: Whole chicken to go, Italian beef sandwich, jalapeño cornbread muffins.

— Kyle Nabilcy

Underground Butcher 811 Williamson St., Madison

The Underground Food Collective’s butcher shop, in a newly renovated blacksmith’s shop on Willy Street, is devoted to carefully curated, local, mindfully raised meats and artisanal sausages. A small menu of sandwiches is served from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., changing frequently. Picks: If it’s on the menu, don’t miss the whitefish sandwich.

— Linda Falkenstein

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isthmusalacarts.com Don’t wait! It will sell out! Isthmus Dining k 2014

CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN CUISINE Comfort Food! Signature Cocktails! Wine Locker Club! Enjoyed in an upscale, yet casual environment, our classic grill items and seasonal favorites include: • Our hand-cut Wood-Fyred Steaks • Our fresh Seafood selections, Rotisserie Chicken • And our famous Mott’s Pot Roast and much more!

A modern interpretation of Italian, American, and French cuisines Serving dinner Monday - Saturday Madison’s Must-Visit Restaurant -New York Times Magazine On the Capitol Square 21 North Pinckney St. • 608-255-6075 www.harvest-restaurant.com

Arbor Gate Towers | 2601 W. Beltline Hwy. 608.273.3973 | www.bonfyregrille.net

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Local fare with a fresh inventive flair!

Serving Weekend Brunch

MADISON 223 N. Frances St. • 608.251.2521 MIDDLETON 1021 N. Gammon Rd. • 608.833.6489 SUN PRAIRIE 315 E. Linnerud Dr. • 608.837.4999

We pride in using all natural ingredients and making all bakery from scratch. Mon-Fri 6:30am-3:30pm Brunch: Sat 7am-3pm & Sun 8am-3pm Also Catering & Take-Out

4124 Monona Drive, Madison Lake Edge Shopping Center corner of Buckeye & Monona Dr.

thegritty.com

224-1150 • www.goodcrema.com

Live Local. Dine Local.

www.harvest-restaurant.com

FAMILY FRIENDLY

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Open for weekday breakfast weekend brunch, lunch, dinner and late night

We’ve been sourcing locally and feeding Madison’s neighborhoods since 2005. Thanks for your continued support and for voting us one of Madison’s best pizzas!

23 North Pinckney Street On the Capitol Square 608.310.4545 www.theoldfashioned.com

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250+ World-class Beers • 100 Belgians 25 Rotating Taps • 30 Wines by the Glass Serving local, seasonal menus in a casual neighborhood setting Award-winning V Burger, Steak-Frites, Moules et Frites, Cheeseboards & More! Open for Lunch & Dinner Mon - Sat and Dinner on Sun

1923 Monroe Street • 255-8500 www.brasserieV.com

FROM

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Open for Dine-In, Take-Out, & Delivery Mon-Sat 11am-9pm

New Orleans.

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“Madison’s Favorite Food Cart”

2105 Sherman Ave. • Madison

608.441.2002

www.banzomadison.com

Closer than you think. Jambalaya, sea scallops, file gumbo and more. A tasteful celebration seven days a week. 2951 Triverton Pike Dr., Fitchburg 608-442-4444 • lilianasrestaurant.com

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www.madisonoriginals.com

Approachable American Cuisine Charles Lazzareschi and a staff of culinary artists take the season’s finest quality ingredients, fresh from your favorite local Wisconsin farms and dairies, and create a flavorful contemporary American menu with a global flair.

in The Madison Concourse Hotel

serving dinner 5:30 - 10:00 pm 1 w. dayton st | 608 294 3031 daytonstreetgrille.com

Vegan chili at Weary Traveler

Hot enough for ya? Meltdown is unavoidable with Madison’s spiciest dishes By André Darlington ❋ Photography by Paulius Musteikis

Time was that Madison wasn’t so hot. Diners craving spicy foods relied on just a handful of Southeast Asian, Mexican, Caribbean and Cajun spots to deliver lip-burning, endorphin-releasing pleasure. The few fiery menu items available became rites of passage into a small cult of heat seekers. One of the more famous of these was, and still is, the “four star” pad Thai at Vientiane Palace. It has set many a frightened diner’s mouth ablaze.

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Fish tacos at the Great Dane

Outside of such “ethnic” joints, as they were usually called back then, the hotcurious were mainly relegated to chicken wings with Frank’s Hot Sauce or salsas at Americanized Mexican restaurants. But over the past few years, the heat has definitely been turning up. This follows a national trend — not only a decades-long trend of increasing adventurousness on the part of American diners, but a trend toward the radically spicy. Who could have predicted a decade ago that Sriracha would mainstream, even in the Midwest, to become the hippest condiment? Or that kimchi would find its way into nearly everything? Today, habanero is the new chipotle to a generation of eaters that keeps chili oil in the fridge and knows how to blend harissa. According to the restaurant research firm Technomic, Gen X and older millennials are driving the heat wave. Last year the firm found that 57% of those ages 25 to 44 prefer their food at seven or higher on a 10-point heat scale. That was up from 48% in 2009. Apparently, MTV latchkey kids have grown up to enjoy bold flavor. Whatever the cause, the result is clear: There are more restaurants at which to find

Louisianne’s jambalaya

spicy foods than ever before, and establishments that have always offered spicy options are offering more spicy dishes. For those who have always wanted to step out of the vanilla comfort zone, or already live outside of it, this is a glorious time to be dining out.

Not toned down for Americans Several of Madison’s hottest restaurants are relative newcomers. Based on food cultures that use heat to make diners sweat — and thus physically cool down — in warm climates, South Indian/ Sri Lankan restaurants Minerva and KJ’s Curry Bowl both have patrons breathing fire. They offer gradations of heat in all of their dishes, but the menus Isthmus Dining k 2014

aren’t necessarily toned down significantly for non-natives. Curries at either can test the endurance of any hothead, and are defining additions to Madison’s spicy dining landscape. In addition to South Indian, Sichuan cuisine has arrived on our isthmus shores. Hot peppers were introduced to Sichuan cooking from South America in the 17th century. Before that, the regional cuisine had the sweet and pungent flavors of mustard seed as well as Middle Eastern exotic spices from the overland trade route. But when the hot chili arrived, Sichuan chefs began to believe that spice helped combat the area’s many foggy, damp days. In Chinese medicine, hot peppers are thought to be internally drying. The red chilis from South America then were blended with Sichuan’s famous peppercorns to produce a zingy combination unlike anywhere else in the world. In Madison, both Fugu and Ichiban deliver authentic versions of the region’s hottest dishes. There are mild options, but the menu does not cater to the faint of heart. Order a hot pot and you will experience what the Chinese call “ma,” that tingling, sizzling, numbing sense of heat-pain that is the signature mix of peppercorns and red chilis. For those in the know in Fitchburg, takeout joint Curry in a Box has been offering a supremely spicy green curry with beef, a dish that manages to be both hot and delicate. It sports a light coconut broth along with good crunch from julienned bamboo shoots. The heat is an integral part of the dish, not an add-on.

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Southern-style spice Cajun heat first started mainstreaming in the U.S. when Brigadier General Walter S. McIlhenny, who also happened to be the president of the company that made Tabasco sauce, issued The Charlie Ration Cookbook to troops in Vietnam. The cookbook came with a two-ounce bottle of Tabasco. In the 1980s, the U.S. Army began putting miniature bottles of Tabasco in MREs, or Meals Ready to Eat. Now two-thirds of all MREs come with the hot sauce. The principal stop for a Cajun hot sauce fix in Madison has long been New Orleans Takeout,

Chicken Lips presents wings both dry-rubbed and traditional (opposite). Madison’s jalapeño-laced Hot Tots are served with a sour cream sauce.

¿Puedo tener un habanero? Caribbean restaurants often employ the now über-trendy habanero pepper for heat. David’s Jamaican Cuisine, Jamerica and Jolly Bob’s all offer jerk dishes as well as some mighty hot sauces. Of particular note for heat-hounds is Jolly Bob’s crab cake with habanero remoulade. The fish tacos at the Great Dane also sport a fiery habanero sauce worthy of attention, and may be the hottest such dish in town. Uninitiated diners may want to ask for the sauce on the side. Madison’s uses the habanero for its fun, crunchy Hot Tots — spicy tater tots served, for wimps, with cooling sour cream. Dexter’s Pub also relies on the habanero pepper to make a habanero-pineapple sauce for its habanero shrimp. It’s a dish that will have smoke blowing out of your ears. with its signature mix of bright vinegar and searing red peppers. The hottest dish is the shrimp creole, although any item can be doused in additional sauce. Similarly, the shrimp etouffee or the jambalaya at Louisianne’s in downtown Middleton can offer a sweat-inducing ride. You just have to ask for the additional heat. Veering from Cajun to something more akin to Tex-Mex is the vegan chili at the Weary Traveler. Its lip-numbing flavor explosion makes up for the unctuous richness of meat with a hit of lasting fire. It’s been enjoyed by spice-seekers for nearly a decade now.

Specialty peppers Pizza has been getting hotter in Madison, and Ian’s offers a hot sauce, as do many of the other larger outfits. But relative newcomer Grampa’s Pizzeria leads the way with its Barbarini pizza, which has an integrated heat that builds into a full burn as you eat. The classic pie is made with Italian Calabrian peppers that are not just hot, but also sweet and smoky. Forequarter serves another trendy pepper, the shisito, when they are in season. The kitchen usually lightly batters and fries them. These Japanese versions of capsicum are likewise sweet and smoky, and underneath the heat have a beguiling tender mildness that sneaks up on you.

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The pineapple shrimp at Dexter’s Pub and Jolly Bob’s crab cake both highlight the mighty habanero.

Wings that sting Any discussion of the rise of heat in American dining cannot leave out the ubiquitous hot wing. Spicy chicken wings are a curious American product. Legend has it that they were created in Buffalo, New York, in 1964 by Teressa Bellissimo as a snack for her son. Since then, they’ve spread across the country and appear with a dizzying variety of sauces. Spicy chicken wings represent the intersection of the bar snack with

America’s competitive streak. They’re not just a food, but a social phenomenon, a way to measure one’s endurance for pain in public. It doesn’t hurt that the heat helps businesses sell beer. Wings have played a big role in spreading the gospel of spice to the masses. Their shortcoming is that by far the least interesting way to cook a protein is to put sauce on it after cooking. It is the wing’s stunning efficiency — fry while frozen, then add sauce — that’s helped it overcome its poor process.

However, it’s a departure from this standard deep-frying-then-saucing procedure that makes Madison’s better spicy wings stand out. Notable in this respect is the Indian restaurant Minerva and its Drums of Heaven. The wings here are a mix of Chinese sticky red sauce with Sichuan fiery pepper. The heat gets trapped in the sticky sauce and coats the lips to agonizing effect. Another singular preparation is found at Chicken Lips, a bar on Highway N outside of Sun Prairie. The wings here are first dry-rubbed with spices — more like pork ribs than drummies — before frying. Then they are sauced. Original is plenty hot, but ask for the off-menu “extra-sexy” to really break a sweat. The prep is novel,

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Some hard-to-find classic hot sauces are sold at Jamerica, 1236 Williamson St., if you need your fix at home. Local musician Jay Moran makes a Wisco Tropicál Hot Sauce inspired by the sauces of the Caribbean. His novel blend of cranberry and habanero is especially addictive on fish, and is available at Metcalfe’s Markets and other local retailers. Two young Madison food startups combine peanuts and chilis to extra-spicy effect. YumButter makes an on-trend spicy peanut butter dubbed “Asian Jazz,” available at local markets. Calliope Ice Cream offers a “Hot Peanut Butter” flavor that combines peanut butter and Sriracha. The flavor is often available at the Chocolate Shoppe, Ian’s Pizza, Stalzy’s, Next Door Brewing and the Weary Traveler, as well as local markets.

— A.D.

and the wings are devilishly spicy while still being flavorful. Liliana’s is notable for smoking its wings and then searing them briefly on the grill. These are wings worth a spice aficionado’s attention. At Quaker Steak and Lube, the Atomic wings are so hot partakers are required to sign a waiver. It’s a silly bit of marketing, underlining the competitive social function and machismo of this dish. However, the single hottest food item, wing or otherwise, in the Madison area must be the wings at the new bar Funk’s in Fitchburg. Here, another trendy

EDO Garden Japanese Restaurant

Authentic Japanese Menu & Vegetarian Cuisine Hibachi grill Hand rolled sushi & sashimi bar Private tea rooms Wedding and rehearsal dinners Private and holiday parties 6309 Monona Dr., Monona, WI 608-226-9828 japaneserestaurantmadison.com Mon-Thurs 11am-10pm, Fri-Sat 11am-11pm, Sun Noon-10pm

pepper makes its appearance: the ghost pepper. As heat-seekers know, a pepper’s spiciness is measured in Scoville units. The ghost chili weighs in somewhere just below pepper spray. So what is it like to experience the final frontier of spice? What do a few bites of Funk’s Ghost Chili Wings taste like? Your eyes will instantly well up with tears. You cannot see. You become concerned you may be asphyxiating because your throat is constricting. Your stomach feels as though you’ve taken shots of burning whiskey. You begin to involuntarily drool. You would laugh with

your dining companions dumb enough to join you in this adventure, but their faces are a scary bright red. They also look as though they are choking. It is a curious mix of pain and fear — and flavor. Surprisingly, the ghost chili tastes quite good, rich and smoky. Many minutes too late, the heat begins to subside and you rejoice at being alive. You experience a massive endorphin rush. Proprietor Jeff Funk says the kitchen has a small dropper of an even hotter pepper sauce, if diners prefer something a little spicier. ❋

Madison’s Chocolate and Wine Cafe We specialize in chocolate desserts, creations and confections, and offer daily house made soups, quiche, galette and sandwiches. Pair your desserts with wine, beer and coffee. Friday happy hours with wine specials and tapas. Catering available.

2004 Atwood Ave • 608.249.1156 • www.chocolateriancafe.com

Beer Brilliance

Madison’s Premier Malt-Centered Brewery 3698 Kinsman Blvd.

608.241.4812

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(On Stoughton Rd., north of E. Washington Ave.)

Hours: Mon-Wed 11am–10pm, Thurs 11am–Midnight, Fri & Sat 11am–2am, Sun 11am–10pm Sunday Brunch: 11am – 4pm • Lunch: ALL WEEK • Dinner: 7 days/week

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Optimized Ways to find the right menu and the right environment in the right part of town By Linda Falkenstein Art by Tommy Washbush People pick a restaurant to go to for many reasons. Buzz. Proximity. Familiarity. Novelty. Cost. Sheer impulse. Sometimes there are more specific criteria diners have to follow, though. These can be dietary: One or more of the party need vegetarian or vegan dishes, or gluten-free options over and above leaving the bun off a burger. Maybe your beergeek buddy is coming to town, so you want to show off a Wisconsin tavern with a great tap list. Possibly what you’re looking for is something kid-friendly, without descending to the drive-through. When inspiration is at a minimum, one resource is the Isthmus restaurant database at TheDailyPage.com/eats. Restaurants are listed alphabetically, but can be searched for various criteria — side of town, or type of cuisine, or if the place is open for breakfast, or on Monday. So you could look for a Thai restaurant on the near east side that’s open for breakfast (and discover there are none). Or you could search for other options, like tap lists, gluten-freefriendly, vegetarian-friendly and kid-friendly. Here’s just some of what you might discover.

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Vegetarian-friendly Currently, Madison is home to one vegetarian restaurant, the Green Owl; one vegan coffee shop, Mother Fool’s; and one vegan food cart, Ladonia Cafe. The Green Owl is the place to find meals based on proteins including seitan, Gardein and jackfruit, as well as vegetableonly entrees like eggplant meatballs and the ever-popular basics plate. Mother Fool’s concentrates on soups and baked goods. And Ladonia Cafe’s tamale platter (also gluten-free) should please any fan of Tex-Mex. If you’re looking to non-vegetarian restaurants for vegetarian fare, Graze is very helpful about labeling its dishes with an easy-to-follow code (DF:

dairy-free, GF: gluten-free, VN: vegan, V: vegetarian, M: modifiable, P: pescatarian, N: contain nuts, S: contains soy sauce). The restaurant’s beet and walnut burger alone could preclude any need to eat an actual hamburger ever again. Manna Cafe features a good number of vegetarian sandwiches and salads that echo Madison’s hippie heyday, including the Lysistrata salad, named after the long-gone feminist collective restaurant (with greens, alfalfa sprouts, raisins, dried cranberries, sunflower seeds, cucumbers, apple slices and avocado); and the Monte Python sandwich (with seared spinach, roasted asparagus, sweet potatoes, romesco sauce and fontina cheese, on wheat bread dipped in egg batter and grilled). No list of vegetarian-friendly restaurants would be complete without mentioning Himal Chuli, the Nepali restaurant with the muchvenerated momocha (vegetable dumplings with tomato coriander dipping sauce); tarkari of the day, an always-comforting vegetarian stew; and tart, spicy kadi (onion dumplings in a yogurt-based sauce). And that’s just a glimpse of the vegetarian part of the menu.

Search: Kid-friendly One of my near-west picks is Fuzzy’s Tacos on University Avenue. Fuzzy’s kids’ menu is not dissimilar to its adult menu — tacos! (plus a cheese enchilada or quesadilla option). But the Fuzzy’s fish logo is reproduced as a coloring page, and crayons are provided throughout the casual dining area. There isn’t too long a wait for the food, which is ordered and picked up at the counter. Yet the food is put together with more care than the standard fast-food joint. The kid taco plates come as beef or chicken, but if your slightly more adventuresome eater is interested, the tempura fish tacos, fresh out of the fryer, should please fish-stick lovers. On the east side, Crema Cafe is cheerfully kid-friendly. While you’re

waiting for the food to come out, the cafe has pretend food for the kids to play with, and organic lollipops to tide over the fussy. The real food puts the usual chicken tender option to shame, with a cornmeal pancake and Wisconsin maple syrup on the breakfast menu, along with toad-in-a-hole. For lunch, a grilled cheddar cheese and a natural turkey sandwich are the centerpieces, though there’s also a peanut butter

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Extensive tap list If you’re going out, take advantage of that fact — opt for beer on draught, rather than in a bottle. Obviously brewery taprooms and brew pubs, where beer is made on-site, will have great, fresh and innovative beers on hand. Less obviously, some restaurants and bars fly under the radar with extra-special tap lists. Brasserie V, on Monroe Street, has 26 taps, with enough Belgian beers that you could imagine you were in Brussels. Throw in a handful of taps from other European countries (Denmark, the Netherlands and Italy) and a few less obvious craft beer picks from around the U.S. and you have a

and strawberry preserves on whole wheat and, for the young gourmet, turkey with goat cheese and Door County cherry relish. For the adults, the coffee is from Colectivo, and refills are just 50 cents. Daisy Cafe and Cupcakery has an area in the front where kids can do some low-key playing. The cupcakes are an obvious draw, but the kids’ menu also caters to the fussy. The grilled cheese sandwich is available with the crusts cut off; the ubiquitous “chicken fingers” here are a healthier grilled chicken strip. House-made mac-and-cheese, with a side of sautéed veggies, is another dinner option. Pasta with butter and cheese and pasta with Italian sausage and tomato sauce are also on the menu, paired with the veggies. Near the entrance to the zoo, the Zu Zu Cafe features five sandwiches — PB

lineup unique in the Madison area. Unassuming Dexter’s Pub, at the corner of North and East Johnson Streets, has 24 taps that highlight many Wisconsin craft breweries but also delve deep into craft beers nationwide. Currently, for instance, Dexter’s is featuring four beers from the Anderson Valley Brewing Co. of Boonville, Calif., seldom seen in these parts. Selections are updated on Dexter’s website. Of the taps at the Coopers Tavern, on the Capitol Square, there’s likely to be representatives from Brewery Ommegang in Cooperstown, N.Y., and Goose Island, out of Chicago. You might stumble across the charmingly named Morland Old Speckled Hen, an English pale ale from Bury, England, among outstanding Wisconsin picks. You’re likely to find a few surprises at jacs as well, like a recent N’Ice Chouffe, from Belgium; an Innis & Gunn, from Edinburgh; and representatives of U.S. craft beers from Delaware (Dogfish Head) to Oregon (Bridgeport Imperial Red). The Tipsy Cow doesn’t have the largest number of taps in town, but its intimate bar area and thoughtfully curated beer list makes it a good place to stop for a pint. The beer of the day is a good deal at $3.50, as is Thursday’s $3 PBR-battered fish or avocado taco special.

& J, turkey, grilled cheese, Nutella and hummus — all named after Sesame Street characters. Luigi’s serves what most kids have no trouble trying — pizza — but also offers a special kids’ menu that features for $2 each a small plain cheese pizza, buttered noodles, noodles and red sauce, and noodles with a meatball. Best, the bambino menu features a word search, riddles, a missing letter puzzle and a maze. The Coliseum Bar is perhaps not one’s first thought of a place to take the kids, but hiding on its four-item kids’ menu is a legend of Madison comfort food, Kipp’s mac-and-cheese (formerly served at Kipp’s Down Home Cookin’ on Monroe Street). Kipp now cooks at the Coliseum, and therefore this kid-menu standby is given the deluxe treatment.

Search: Gluten-free Jacs makes available gluten-free pastas and flatbread pizzas, as well as buns, for a $3 charge, and has a gluten-free fryer. In the reverse of most restaurants, jacs marks the dishes that can’t be made gluten-free — but that’s a small number from a wideranging menu. Even better, the Friday fish fry — beer-battered cod with slaw and potato pancakes or frites — is G-F. Jacs has several gluten-free or glutenreduced beers available, too. The Coopers Tavern specifies which food items on the menu are gluten-free, and, good news, the poutine benedict makes the cut. The Coopers has several gluten-free beers available as well as hard ciders. Most of the Tex Tubb’s Taco Palace menu is gluten-free. Tacos are made in corn tortillas (from Mercado Marimar on South Park Street), and only a few fillings that have breading (like the crispy tilapia) contain gluten. But the house-smoked chicken or the chorizo and black bean are all yours. The Food Fight group of restaurants all have gluten-free options clearly marked on the menus. This is, of course, true of the first of the group, Monty’s Blue Plate Diner. There, dive in to the G.B.L.T. (guacamole, bacon, lettuce and tomato) sandwich, which naturally comes on Silly Yak bakery jalapeño cheddar bread, among other options. Brickhouse Barbecue has many gluten-free barbecue plates, or plates that can be made so by skipping the Texas Toast or switching out a sauce. Head for the dry-rubbed Texas beef brisket. If dessert’s what you’re after, pop in to Chocolaterian, where the handmade macaroons, flourless chocolate cake, chocolate almond horns and flourless chocolate cookies are all gluten-free. Isthmus Dining k 2014

Looking for the perfect late-night date? Try one of these, stuffed with almonds and wrapped in bacon, at Jacâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on Monroe Street.

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Late-night cravings Best bets for a midnight meal when you’re not right downtown By Kyle Nabilcy ❋ Photography by Paulius Musteikis

Like luck, inspiration and fate, craving is a fickle visitor. It holds to no schedule; it respects no existing meal plans or even a decent hour of the day. Put another way: Sometimes you need — like, need — a stack of pancakes at one in the morning. The truly late-night dining scene in Madison is still in a growth phase. We’re too small a market to support the “everything, all the time” model of the bigger cities, but not so small that there’s nothing better to do than keep the diner open all the time to serve the third-shifters.

Demand, though, is on the rise, and the downtown area is turning more and more night-owl. But sometimes, that craving, it hits you when getting to the Square isn’t convenient. What then? What options are there for those whose off-hours hankering hits farther from downtown/campus?

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Nighttime is the right time for eggplant parmigiana pizza at Cafe La Bellitalia, or the mix-n-match skewers from Next Door Brewing, which serves a full menu until 10 weeknights and 11 weekends. Jac’s (right) keeps the kitchen open until 11 Monday through Saturday.

Other than its somewhat fringe location, there is no more accommodating operation than the Pine Cone Restaurant, nestled between Madison and DeForest on Highway 51. It’s a truck stop diner, but not a greasy spoon. The corned beef hash is rich and crisp around the edges, and the pancakes come with just the right-sized dollop of whipped butter. This is a menu a person could spend a long time exploring, and the Pine Cone is open 24 hours to enable your dedication. Near-west and westsiders needn’t feel left out, as they sometimes might given the number of high-profile restaurants popping up east of the

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Capitol. Serving until 11 p.m. Monday through Saturday, jacs on Monroe Street will lay down a fine chicken Francaise, brightened by lemon, atop rich herbed potatoes; a skewer of remarkable almondstuffed, bacon-wrapped dates (they are the glorious concentrated essence of their components); or something as simple as an order of thick-cut frites with aioli. Farther west, Harold’s Chicken Shack is also open until 11 p.m., and there are few joints in Madison that can keep up with Harold’s and its fried-to-order chicken when the kitchen is firing on all cylinders. Plenty of bars will serve you a frozen pizza at midnight, and if that’s your craving, you’re set. But if you want a little more from your beercentric late-night options, Next Door Brewing serves from its full dinner menu until about an hour before closing, which means 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday and 11 p.m.

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Burrito Drive’s Spam-and-tater-tot wrap will answer a prayer at bartime, as will the wontons filled with blue cheese and chorizo.

on Friday and Saturday. The mix-and-match skewers seem like the most convenient order, but if you want a Caesar salad or a pile of rich poutine, you can get them. The regular menu at Ale Asylum cuts out at 10 p.m. every day, but the pizzas it serves until close (11 p.m. during the week, midnight on Friday and Saturday) are made by local pie-slinger Falbo Brothers, and are never frozen. Tell me more about this “pizza” concept, you say. Well, all right. What do you know about Grampa’s Pizzeria? This fairly new entry in the Williamson Street scene serves its full menu until close every night, which is midnight every day but Sunday. Take a seat at the bar if you can, order one of Grampa’s crisp thin-crust pizzas and maybe a bowl of olives, or an excellent dessert like the sticky ginger cake, and close out the day happy. The north side’s Cafe La Bellitalia has a menu full of hearty Italian classics. You’d be well advised to put your pizza and dinner main course together with the eggplant parmigiana pizza, available until 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday and midnight on Friday and Saturday. If you’d rather stay in pajamas, the cafe has a generous delivery range as well. One thing the downtown area has going for it is the growing prevalence of late-night food carts. Steamed buns and tacos are the kind of food I love most from food trucks, and thankfully, you can scratch those itches even outside the immediate downtown. Umami Ramen and Dumpling Bar is only a mile down from the Capitol on Williamson Street. You have until 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday (10 p.m. Monday through Thursday) to enjoy the best pork buns in Madison, some excellent ramen, or the hiyayakko, a chilled tofu starter that’s a favorite of mine.

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The reliable Pine Cone, on the road to DeForest, is the best kind of truck-stop diner, featuring crispy corned beef hash and stacks of buttery pancakes.

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Also convenient to east-siders (there’s even a parking lot) is Brearly Street’s Burrito Drive, which has been serving goofy Tex-Mex to latenight diners for over seven years now. There’s plenty of novelty on this menu — the Spam and tater-tot-filled White Trash Burrito, for example — but fried wontons filled with chorizo and Maytag blue cheese are both delicious and good for taking the edge off a pint or three. What the bacon-wrapped Tijuana hot dog lacks in subtlety, it makes up in the ability to soothe a salty snack craving, available until 3 a.m. every day of the week. Taqueria Guadalajara, just south of Monona Bay on South Park Street, has successfully relaunched after its kitchen fire. It’s turning out excellent lengua and chorizo until 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday, and 10 p.m. on Tuesday through Thursday and Sunday. ❋

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Hipsters, happy hours, hummus, hash browns & heritage pork What visitors to Madison absolutely should not miss By Adam Powell ❋ Art by Paul Stroede

Lately it feels like locals are playing tour guide a lot more in Madison. We have a higher visitor count, thanks to the national attention our food scene is receiving and increasing business traffic. What used to be a town of supper clubs, fish fries and pickled herring is now a city interesting enough to be a draw for curious gourmets from neighboring culinary titans like Chicago. We still rock the steakhouses, burger joints and beer halls, but in 2014 Madison has more than that.

Forequarter

Graze

This hip, mellow space turns out stunning appetizers and often Wisco-themed entrees with a seasonally variable menu that matches a ski-lodge-type space. Catch the pork sausage over sauerkraut if you can, or check the everchanging bread board.

After conquering Madison with L’Etoile, chef Tory Miller narrowed his ambitions for the more casual Graze, which mixes pork belly udon with a rock shrimp po’ boy wrap on a playful menu in a light-filled space.

Genna’s Cocktail Lounge A storied happy hour on the Square: cheddar cheese cubes and mini meatballs go nicely in a ’50s way with some of the city’s better martinis, lawyers, politicians and stray tourists.

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Mickey’s Tavern

Harvest A rock-solid upscale menu centered on local organic ingredients is stuffed with steaks, scallops and salads. And how about a chocolate-cherry bread pudding?

Genna’s Cocktail Lounge

Heritage Tavern

High Noon Saloon

Le Tigre Lounge

Perhaps the most anticipated opening of 2013, this fine-dining anchor led by chef Dan Fox again raises the bar for downtown. Pistachio citrus-crusted grouper and wagyu short ribs are standouts.

Hoist a pint to the historic lostto-fire O’Cayz Corral (where Madison’s Tar Babies once butted heads with Hüsker Dü, and Nirvana played). Cathy Dethmers re-created the storied O’Cayz dynamic at the High Noon Saloon, which hosts national and local acts. Live band karaoke by the Gomers goes nicely with good beer and choice Bloody Marys.

There are three bars in Madison that visitors have to hit: Natt Spil, Mickey’s and Le Tigre. Le Tigre seriously frowns on cursing (you might get kicked out) and instead invites patrons to sink into leopard-print upholstery to the songs of Dean Martin and Edith Piaf.

Lombardino’s Restaurant & Bar

L’Etoile Restaurant Bring beaucoup bucks and commit to a big spend for a world-class meal looking out at the Capitol. The menu changes daily and upon chef Tory Miller’s whim, but might include braised Sylvan Meadows Farm lamb leg, baby bok choy, root vegetables and sesame-soy glaze.

Lombardino’s Restaurant & Bar Modern Italian food in an old ItalianAmerican restaurant. Cider-brined pork loin chop and pan-seared walleye are paired with a thoughtful wine list. The trippy murals and plaster-encased statuary make for a hip combination.

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The Malt House

Mickey’s Tavern

Nile Mediterranean Cuisine

A Madison institution of beer (it was once the Union House Tavern and boasts an antique, Civil War-era bar). Visitors will discover a range of local craft beers and a cast of characters rivaling those in a Bukowski tale.

For old-school east-side regulars, it’s “the only bar that matters.” Longtime Madison music connoisseur Elizabeth Granby has been developing the music side while owner Jane Capito has deployed an astoundingly good menu. Try the World’s Greatest Sandwich, which tops sourdough slices with Swiss cheese, bacon, lettuce, tomato and a fried egg.

Zestiest hummus in the city. Look past the strip-mall setting and less-than-exotic decor to discover shawarma to die for, the result of nearly three decades of finetuning recipes at the Nile’s former incarnation, LuLu’s.

Merchant Sampling braised osso buco pork shank with cheddar grits while listening to a DJ spin and maybe picking up a can of San Marzano crushed tomatoes to take home aren’t usually activities that go together. At Merchant, they do.

Natt Spil You won’t see a sign on the front door, and there’s no phone, so no calling for reservations. Pizzas from the wood-fired oven and dim sum with a DJ ensure that even the prickliest hipster visitors from Williamsburg or Silver Lake will just shut up about how superior they are.

Nostrano The tiny dining room and somewhat more capacious bar area are some of the most prized tables in town. Chef Tim Dahl and his wife, pastry chef Elizabeth Dahl, dazzle with dishes like pan-roasted quail and tagliatelle with zucchini pesto.

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Osteria Papavero Thrilling modern Italian cuisine, ranging from ricotta and spinach-stuffed crepes to tagliolini pasta with chili, garlic and a whole Maine lobster tail.

A Pig in a Fur Coat This packed, convivial eatery was the kill-shot for the dominance of Willy Street as the best drag for a casual night of eating out. The focus is on heritage pig, but daring small plates like rabbit rillette with pistachio and pickled cherries and octopus with garbanzo and olives are making this spot’s name.

State Street Brats This Madison institution isn’t actually all that much fun unless you are a wasted undergraduate, but the depravity and excess on a Friday night is an impressive look at a top party school in action.

Tempest Oyster Bar Some of the finest seafood in Madison comes in a tricked-out space, including a boat and a giant seashell.

Tornado Steakhouse

The filet mignon with hash browns is heaven on a plate. Lots of hard-hitting politicos frequent these retro wood-paneled rooms.

The Old Fashioned Ground zero for the upscale burgers-and-beers concept that has since engulfed downtown Madison. Sitting up at the beautiful bar with a board of Wisconsin cheese and meats and a brandy old fashioned is a great way to kick off a night on the town.

Opus Lounge Perfect for a rebalance before hitting a show at the Majestic. Small plates like sushi rolls, salt and pepper shrimp, and ahi tuna salad get backup from Velvet Underground-esque light displays.

Umami Ramen & Dumpling Bar Pork buns with mantou bread and thick slices of pickled cucumber are the must-order at this 1880s house-cum-Willy Street restaurant, and bowls of Japanese-style ramen are a cure for most ills.

Weary Traveler Free House Between the Tom Ga Kha soup, Bob’s Bad Breath burger, the West of the Andes sandwich and the weekend brunches, it can be hard to order at this Willy Street mainstay. The room is similarly eclectic and morphs between a coffee shop vibe (replete with board games) and a party zone on weekend nights. ❋

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Sichuan immersion

Fugu is the place to experience China’s pop cuisine By Julia Burke ❋ Photography by Paulius Musteikis

In the rich and incredibly varied world that’s filed in the West under “Chinese food,” the cuisine of Sichuan province is my favorite. Because it’s not easy to find authentic Sichuan cuisine in the U.S., I’ve spent years since my time in China learning how to prepare my favorite dishes at home. But since I discovered Fugu — an unassuming spot on Gilman at State — I’ve not attempted Sichuan cooking once. Why should I, when an immersive Sichuan experience is just a few blocks away?

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China, circa 1920

Owner Amanda Chen, originally from Fujian province in China, says she saw a demand for Sichuan food among Madison’s Chinese population. “We have a lot of Chinese people here, and everybody was looking for traditional Chinese food; it’s too far to drive to Chicago,” Chen says. “Sichuan food is very popular, not just in Sichuan province but all over China.” Chen’s own love of Sichuan cuisine also played a role. “My mom is from Sichuan,” she says. “I especially like the spicy dishes.” Sichuan means “Four circuits of rivers.” Though it was often written as “Szechuan” in accordance with old pinyin standards, modern pinyin favors the spelling I’m using. Sichuan province is located in central China, a humid part of the country prone to heavy rainfall and heat. It’s considered one of China’s greatest agricultural centers. Though it’s nestled between mountains and the Tibetan plateau, Sichuan has seen frequent influxes of immigrants from other Chinese provinces during times of both war

Great for slurping: Dan-dan noodles (top), while mapo doufu is a canvas for a brilliant sauce.

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and unification. As Fuchsia Dunlop writes in her lovely Sichuan cookbook Land of Plenty, “Today’s ‘traditional’ culinary repertoire incorporates many outside influences: most notably chiles from South America, but also roasting and smoking techniques that originated in the imperial kitchens

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in Beijing, ‘red-braising’ from the eastern provinces, an interest in deep-frying that is said to have come from Americans supporting the war effort in 1930s Chongqing, and all kinds of dumplings and snacks that came from northern and coastal areas.” As such, Sichuan boasts diversity in its cuisine, giving rise to the saying that

“China is the place for food, but Sichuan is the place for flavor” — a perfect summation of the Sichuan dining experience. Many associate Sichuan cuisine with extreme spice, but that hardly does the flavor profiles justice. In a single bowl, expect a balance. Spice heat is abundant; there’s a reason

Shredded beef with pickled pepper provides a kick (far left); if you’re not a spice person, choose the tea-smoked duck (above).

Chinese people ask travelers heading for Sichuan if they pa la (“fear heat”). But it exists to undercut tender, fatty meat, slippery tofu or plush eggplant. Herbaceous notes from Sichuan peppercorns, flecks of hot peppers and thick sweet-tangy sauces provide the bass lines, not screaming guitar solos. Order the dishes family-style, as you always should when enjoying a relaxed Chinese meal, and marvel at how such complex flavors meld seamlessly when combining two or three seemingly distinct dishes into a single scrumptious bowl. That Fugu has an “Americanstyle dishes” page — sequestered where it belongs, at the back of the menu — is a testament to its focus. That its clientele is largely Chinese students, who keep it buzzing during mealtimes, is a testament to its success. With a varied menu of pickled pepper dishes, black curded bean dishes, hot pot and vegetarian classics like Sichuan eggplant, plus a few Japanese items like sake and mochi thrown in to appease the gweilo, Fugu is an outstanding Sichuan experience. First among my go-to orders

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Sichuan eggplant is a textural masterpiece.

is dan-dan noodles. Dan refers to the pole that street vendors traditionally used to carry them, and these fat, chewy, sloppy noodles are great for slurping alone as a cheap meal. But they’re even better mixed around with mapo doufu, or “pock-marked Mother Chen’s tofu” (named after a Qing-era restaurateur’s wife, unfortunately marred by smallpox but blessed with gastronomical prowess). Mapo doufu features cubes of tofu in a thick, spicy sauce with flecks of pork and chicken sprinkled about as lovingly as the chili flakes that give it a mean kick. Hate tofu, you say? Put down that sad tofu wrap, back away slowly, and learn from the folks who invented it. Instead of trying to pass this amazing food off as meat, let it shine as a canvas for a brilliant sauce and seasonings. With Sichuan peppercorns giving the dish an herbaceous, fragrant heat and a tiny amount of meat playing the garnish role rather than stealing the show, this is Sichuan soul food, and an excellent demonstration that tofu needn’t be breaded and deep-fried to taste great.

Do yourself a favor and order a mug of jasmine tea.

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Sichuan eggplant, with that garlicky sauce and soft, chewy texture that turns a hard-to-cook vegetable into a textural masterpiece, is my favorite Fugu dish. But don’t ignore the meat dishes. Meat comes in slices rather than slabs in most East Asian cuisines, and shredded beef with pickled pepper is a perfect example. Green Sichuan peppers are a welcome kick against fatty bits of beef, shaved garlic and green chiles, achieving a healthy heat that settles right down under the calming influence of steamed rice. If you’re really not a spice person, the Sichuan specialty for you is tea-smoked duck. This tender, fatty, falling-from-thebone roast duck offers charred, tannic aromas and a wonderful complement to a hot mug of jasmine tea. No matter what you try, take inspiration from Sichuan chefs and be bold, and Fugu will reward your adventurousness with a memorable meal. ❋

PIZZAMAZING. 15 years of award-winning pizza. From the classics to the imaginative including Fetalicous ®, Boaris Karloff and Pizza of the Month. To the much loved salads and homemade lasagna. To subs with Boar’s Head ® meats, pasta and more. Dare we say a to-do list for your taste buds? We do. Let’s eat. Late Night Delivery. Dine-in. Carry-out. Catering.

For a full menu, coupons or ordering online, tap your fingers to glassnickelpizza.com. MADISON – EAST 2916 Atwood Ave.

608

245-0880

Full Service Restaurant & Bar, Carry–out & Delivery

MADISON – WEST 5003 University Ave.

608

218-9000

Dine–in seating, Carry–out & Delivery

Food & Spirits

FITCHBURG

3191 Muir Field Road

608

848-4877

Dine–in seating, Carry–out & Delivery

LOCALLY LO O CALLY Y OWNED D & OPERATED OPERATE ED

Antiques ~ Resale ~ Retail SUN PRAIRIE 101 West Main St.

608

834-9919

Full Service Restaurant & Bar, Carry–out & Delivery

IN PIZZA WE TRUST®

Food & Spirits Food & Spirits BEST Antiques ~ Resale ~ Retail & Spirits Antiques ~ Resale ~ Retail Fish FryFood Food & Spirits Antiques ~ Resale ~ Retail in Town! Food & Spirits

Antiques ~ Resale ~ Retail

Old Fashioned Tavern

Antiques ~ Resale ~ Retail

Quietly Serving Middleton’s Best Burgers for 35 Years

1330 Regent Street 251.6375

Fast & Friendly Service Fridays: Traditional Wisconsin Fish Fry 7508 Hubbard Avenue • (608) 831-9962

www.thevillagegreenmiddleton.com

www.jordansbig10pub.squarespace.com

Reserva tions re Recomam ended

National Historic Site in Attica - 5 acres along the Sugar River N7302 County X Albany (Attica), WI 608.862.1161

FRANKLIN N GROVE,

ETC.

A Unique Historic Dining, Shopping & Travel Green® Experience

Wed/Thurs 10am-6pm Fri 10am-8pm • Sat/Sun 9am-8pm

FRANKLIN N GROVE,

ETC.

A family run winery and vineyard on 40 acres in beautiful Poynette

fr w ee tastine ings

rocknwoolwinery.com

A Unique Historic Dining, Shopping & Travel Green® Experience

Where All Paths Lead SEAFOOD

3502 Monroe St.

LUNCH DINNER SANDWICHES LATE NIGHT

(608) 819-8988

Traditional bar food with a Mediterranean flair.

gatesandbrovi.com Isthmus Dining k 2014

FRANK GROVE

A Unique Historic Dining, Shopping

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608: A classic-looking tavern with a

bar down one side and booths down the other, with upscale burgers, panini, salads, a few entrees and a roster of spiked milkshakes. Gluten-free bread available. Late-night menu. $6-$20. 212 State St. 608-250-5150. Madison–Downtown, M-6. facebook. com/608restaurant A PIG IN A FUR COAT: It’s one of Mad City’s prime spots for amazing pork dishes. The focus is on small plates: charcuterie, sardines, ravioli, pork belly, etc., but also large plates (tripe, chicken thigh, veal breast, trout). Local beer list. $9-$24. 940 Williamson St. 608-316-3300. Madison–Near East, J-6. apiginafurcoat.com AJ BOMBERS: Rotating special burgers plus a dozen house burgers and peanuts that arrive at your table aerially. And speaking of peanuts, don’t overlook the Barrie Burger — a peanut butter-bacon-cheeseburger. Upgrade to an organic grass-fed beef patty is available. $2-$12. 201 W. Gorham St. 608305-4474. Madison–Downtown, J-5. ajbombers.com ALE ASYLUM: Popular taproom with spacious outdoor patio areas. Ale Asylum brews are paired with a judicious selection of housemade sandwiches and salads, with 10-inch pizzas from Falbo Bros. A great place to drink and nosh. $2-$10. 2002 Pankratz St.

ISTHMUS DINING k 2014

608-663-3926. Madison–North, K-3. aleasylum.com ANCORA COFFEE: All locally roasted fair-trade coffees. Breakfast sandwiches and a range of fancied-up grilled cheese, plus baked goods. King Street location has evening hours and alcoholic coffee drinks. $1-$7. 112 King St. 608-2550285. Madison–Downtown, U-6. 2871 University Ave. 608-233-5287. Madison–Near West, X-0. ancoracoffee.com

AVENUE BAR: Justly known

for its fish boil (every day) and daily specials including prime rib, roast beef and chicken. But the sandwiches, burgers and fries are also a draw and a good deal in this classic tavern atmosphere. $5-$30. 1128 E. Washington Ave. 608-257-6877. Madison–Near East, J-6. avenuebarmadison. com

BANZO: Criminally crispy

fresh-made falafel, housemade hummus and baba ganoush, salads, homemade chips and specials. The schnitzel — seasoned fried chicken in a pita — is a near-perfect object. Cafe, takeout, delivery. $3-$8. 2105 Sherman Ave. 608-441-2002. Madison–North, K-4. Two food carts, one on campus, one on Capitol Concourse.banzomad ison.com

BARRIQUES: Each of Barriques’ six locations is slightly

different, with coffees, wines, beers, deli sandwiches, salads and more on offer. $5-$10. 127 W. Washington Ave. 608-268-6264. Madison–Downtown, P-7. 1825 Monroe St. 608-284-9463. Madison–Near West, H-7. 8410 Old Sauk Rd. 608-828-9502. Madison–Far West, A-6. 5957 McKee Rd. 916 S. Park St. 608-819-6787. Madison–South, I-8. 608-277-9463. Fitchburg, E-11. 1901 Cayuga St. 608-824-9463. Middleton, B-5. barriquesmarket.com

BASSETT STREET BRUNCH CLUB:

All day breakfast/brunch and comfort food spot in the new Hampton Inn on campus. Big platters of eggs, hash, chicken and biscuit, pancakes, plus sandwiches, salads, and select comfort food entrees. Long list of hair-of-thedog specialty cocktails. $4-$14. 444 W. Johnson St. 608-467-5051. Madison– Downtown, G-8. brunchclubmadison. com

BATCH BAKEHOUSE:

A few eat-in tables. Worthy, crusty baguettes, sourdough loaves, ciabatta and the rustic Provencal loaf called fougasse. Pastries include muffins, scones, plain and filled croissants, morning buns and pain au chocolate. $2-$7. 1402 Williamson St. 608-2571652. Madison–Near East, K-6. batch bakehouse.com

BELLE PIZZELLE EUROPEAN BAKERY & CAFE: Inside East Towne Mall,

13 Z

Winners of the 2013 Isthmus Readers Poll feature the Mad Fave label

The poll takes place each June. Watch for it in Isthmus in print and online!

a locally owned, family-run bakery and dumpling stop. Pastries, coffee drinks, salads, sandwiches and the Russian dumpling pelmeni. $2-$9. 300 East Towne Mall, B-140 608-246-7060. Madison–Far East, N-2. bellepizzelle. com BLUE MARLIN: Fresh seafood with inventive sauces. Menu changes seasonally, but expect monkfish, mahi-mahi, salmon, prawns, ahi tuna, lobster, scallops. Plus steak and veggie entrees.

$10-$50. 101 N. Hamilton St. 608255-2255. Madison–Downtown, R-4. thebluemarlin.net BONFYRE AMERICAN GRILLE: The centerpiece of the kitchen is the woodfired oven, with rotisserie chicken, Berkshire pork chops and steaks, topped with a variety of accompaniments. Seafood in flavorful, simple preparations. $6-$25. 2601 W. Beltline Hwy. 608-273-3973. Madison–South, G-10. bonfyregrille.net BRASSERIE V: Intimate Belgianinflected spot with great food. Moules et frites and steak-frites are joined by fondue, sandwiches, salads and the popular “V” burger, 26 taps (strong in Belgian and unique European imports, and American craft brews), outstanding list of bottled beers, wines by the glass. $5-$18. 1923 Monroe St. 608255-8500. Madison–Near West, G-7. brasseriev.com BREW & GROW: Home-brewing and hydroponic gardening supplies. 1525 Williamson St. 608-226-8910. Madison–Near East, K-5 brewandgrow.com BRICKHOUSE BBQ: Expansive barbecue restaurant with event rooms and banquet area, rooftop deck. Pulled pork, ribs, roasted chicken, pork chops, sausage, ham, brisket, catfish dinners, also sandwiches. 40-some local and national craft beers on tap. $7-$20. 408 W. Gorham St. 608-257-7675. Madison–Downtown, H-7. thebrickhousebbq.com BUCK & BADGER: Burgers and hearty Wisconsin fare like walleye sandwich, Norwegian meatballs and of course burgers in an up-north atmosphere. 16 beers on tap, many in-state. $5-$16. 115 State St. 608-230-7999. Madison– Downtown, N-6. buckandbadger.com BURRITO DRIVE: Inventive Mexican in the Willy Street neighborhood. Make-your-own options, or choose from enchiladas, burritos, tacos and tortas with fresh and sometimes offbeat ingredients. $4-$9. 310 S. Brearly St. 608-260-8586. Madison–Near East, J-6. burritodrive.com CAFE LA BELLITALIA: Cozy neighborhood spot with traditional Italianstyle menu centered on pastas and excellent pizzas; try the eggplant parmigiana pizza or the Pietro special. For sandwiches, don’t miss the Italian beef. $5-$22. 1026 N. Sherman Ave. 608243-1200. Madison–North, K-3. cafe labellitaliamadison.com CAPITOL CHOPHOUSE: At the Monona Terrace Hilton. Good steaks at this impeccable, quiet dining room. The several fish entrees, however, are also very good. $7-$40. 9 E. Wilson St. 608-255-0165. Madison–Downtown, V-7. capitolchophouse.com CENTURY HOUSE: Modern and Scandinavian interiors. Furniture, gifts and kitchen supplies. 3029 and 3420 University Ave. 608-233-4488. Madison– Near West, F-7. centuryhouseinc.com.

CHASERS:

Sandwiches, salads, burgers. Friday allyou-can-eat fish fry. $4-$11. 319 W. Gorham St. 608-251-3354. Madison– Downtown, I-6. chasersbarandgrille. com CHEBA HUT: Toasted subs in three sizes: the nub, the pinner and the blunt.

The case for omakase The first time I heard the work “omakase,” I had been emailed a secret menu for an “underground dinner party” that enlisted my assistance. The Japanese word means “I’ll leave it to you,” and diners allow the chef complete control over their dining experience. The idea was simple: Invite a few people to dinner at an undisclosed location. Don’t reveal the menu, the guests or the chef. See who shows up. Knock their socks off. Let them spread the word. He’d cook. I’d be helping in the kitchen, serving, busing, hostessing and whatever else might be needed. The event transformed my approach to dining. For me, seeing what happens when diners allow a chef to work magic, sans special orders, preconceived notions and picky eaters, was like seeing live blues music for the first time. Rather than a mere convenience or excuse to leave the house, dining out was an act of arts patronage. As someone who once experienced anxiety over large menus and nutritious choices, I thought about how freeing it is to simply sit back, push the menu away, order a drink, and place your evening in the hands of the capable artist you’ve come to see. When I get the chance, chef, I’ll always leave it to you.

— JULIA BURKE

Yep, they go there. The menu (in addition to more reefer puns than you previously thought existed) features more veggie sub options than usual. $4-$9. 453 W. Gilman St. 608-843-2718. Madison–Downtown, F-7. chebahut.com CHICKEN LIPS: Bar standards like burgers, but the real draw here is the chicken wings, extra spicy, with a recommended homemade blue cheese dressing. $2-$7. 5508 Hwy. N 608-8376721. Sun Prairie.

CHOCOLATE SHOPPE ICE CREAM:

Farm-fresh dairy goes into 110 flavors (though not all are available at once); seasonal treats like Door County Cherry, s’mores, eggnog and pumpkin. Family-owned in Madison since 1962. $2-$4. 468 State St. 608-255-5454. Madison–Downtown, H-5. 1726 Fordem Ave. 608-241-2747. Madison– Near East, K-5. 555 S. Midvale Blvd. 608-441-5248. Madison–Near West, F-8. chocolateshoppeicecream.com CHOCOLATERIAN CAFE: Chocolate and desserts reign supreme; wine and coffee are the sidekicks. Fondue (the chocolate kind) is available, so are local cheese and charcuterie plates. But the focus is on treats like almond horns, tarts, cookies, Parisian hot chocolate and the house “ugly cookie.” $2-$14. 2004 Atwood Ave. 608-249-1156. Madison–Near East, K-5. Also hosts a cafe inside the Central Library at 201 W. Mifflin St. chocolateriancafe.com

COLECTIVO COFFEE ROASTERS:

Coffee, espresso drinks, smoothies and teas, breakfast sandwiches and burritos, lunch wraps and sandwiches, and from-scratch baked goods from Baked in Bayview. And several house microbrews on tap. $2-$8. 25 S. Pinckney St. 608-255-0474. Madison–Downtown, T-5. colectivocoffee.com. COLISEUM BAR: The perfect place to begin or end an evening out. A large menu of shrimp, ribs, prime rib and sandwiches. Banquet facilities. $4-$13. 222 E. Olin Ave. 608-251-2434. Madison–South, J-8. coliseumbarmadison. com CONSCIOUS CARNIVORE: Butcher shop sourcing local product whenever possible; grass-fed, free-range, antibiotic-free meats, sometimes prepped for home cooking (but no prepared meals): beef, chicken, pork and lamb. Housemade sausages. 3236 University Ave. 608-709-1418. Madison–Near West, F-6. conscious-carnivore.com COOPERS TAVERN: Gastropub with Irish inflection; private Irish snug available and second-floor event space. Appetizers include the “Sconnie egg,” frites and poutine; soups, salads, and sandwiches. The draft beer menu is a standout, ranging from Dane County to Belgium and Ireland. $4-$9. 20 W. Mifflin St. 608-256-1600. Madison–Downtown, O-5. thecooperstavern.com

CRANDALL’S: Peruvian menu and Fri-

day fish fry. $3-$12. 334 State St. 608231-2000. Madison–Downtown, J-6. crandallsrestaurantandcatering.com CREMA CAFE: Coffee, fruit smoothies and excellent sandwiches and salads made from locally grown and sustainably produced ingredients. $2-$9. 4124 Monona Dr. 608-224-1150. Madison– Far East, M-6. goodcrema.com CROSTINI: Panini, subs, wraps, pasta dishes and salads for takeout; limited indoor seating and a nice sidewalk area with a few tables. Good Italian beef; also, don’t pass by the pasta options. $2-$7. 231 North St. 608-2414284. Madison–Near East, L-4. crostini sandwiches.com CURRY IN THE BOX: Indian and Thai curries in a fast casual setting in a strip mall in Fitchburg. Also Asian-influenced salads and noodle dishes for the curry-averse. $3-$9. 3050 Cahill Main 608-273-9100. Fitchburg, G-11. curry inthebox.com DAISY CAFE & CUPCAKERY: Cupcakes are a highlight, of course, but this casual east-side spot is a favorite for breakfasts and lunches daily. Dinners, too. $2-$11.2827 Atwood Ave. 608241-2200. Madison–Near East, L-5. daisycafeandcupcakery.com DAVID’S JAMAICAN: Jerk chicken, steak, fish, and tofu, all excellent; curried goat, ackee codfish. $4-$19. 5734 Monona Dr. 608-222-8109. Madison– Far East, M-8. DAYTON STREET GRILLE: Breakfast, lunch and dinner inside the Madison Concourse Hotel. Features the popular and fresh all-you-can-eat weekday salad bar at lunch. At night, grilled lamb chops, Atlantic salmon, pork chops, scallops and New York strip steak with 33 side sauces. $7-$25. 1 W. Dayton St. 608-257-6000. Madison–Downtown, O-4. daytonstreetgrille.com DEXTER’S PUB: Sandwiches, salad bar, Friday fish fry in this friendly neighborhood pub. Meat from Knoche’s butcher shop. A real beer lover’s hangout as well, with changing craft and microbrews on 24 taps. $3-$15. 301 North St. 608-244-3535. Madison–Near East, L-4. dexterspubmadison.com DHABA INDIAN BISTRO: The menu offers the expected curries and biriyanis, with a decent-sized vegetarian section. There are also a larger-than-usual number of lamb dishes and one featuring goat. $5-$19. 8333 Greenway Blvd. 608-203-8822. Middleton, A-5. dhaba indianbistro.com THE DORF HAUS: German specialties such as schnitzel, wurst, rouladen and sauerbraten; steaks, seafood and chicken. Bavarian smorgasbord first Mondays. $10-$22. 8931 Hwy. Y. 608-6433980. Roxbury. foodspot.com/dorfhaus DRIFTLESS DEPOT: Local purveyors showcased at one of southern Wisconsin’s hidden gems. Sandwiches served at lunch; Friday trout dinner is superb, but you need to place reservations by Thursday. Dinner takeout or eat-in orders should be phoned in advance as well. $5-$20. 140 S. Winsted St. 608628-1001. Spring Green. driftlessdepot. com EDO GARDEN: Sushi, teriyaki, donburi, yaki soba, good light tempura

ISTHMUS DINING k 2014

ISTHMUS DINING | The Guide to Advertisers & Mentioned Restaurants FOREQUARTER: Local sea-

and all-day bento box specials. $4$20. 6309 Monona Dr. 608-226-9828. Monona, M-9. edojapaneserestaurant. com ELLA’S DELI: Encyclopedic menu featuring every possible permutation of sandwiches, plus a dizzying array of ice cream sundaes, floats, and malts amid an equally dizzying scene of mechanical clowns, flying elephants and whatnot. $2.5-$9. 2902 E. Washington Ave. 608-241-5291. Madison–Near East, L-4. ellas-deli.com

FROMAGINATION:

Artisanal cheeses; a small selection of sandwiches available for takeout; special fondue lunches and more. $6-$8. 12 S. Carroll St. 608-255-2430. Madison–Downtown, Q-7. fromagination.com. FUGU ASIAN FUSION: Chinese standards, Sichuan-style chef’s specials like hot and spicy pork intestine; curries; sizzling platters; stir-fries, salads. $3$16. 411 W. Gilman St. 608-286-7277. Madison–Downtown, G-6. fuguasian. com FUNK’S PUB: Burgers, wraps and sandwiches are the focus here, with

ENO VINO WINE BAR & BISTRO:

Sophisticated dining room and bar, an impressive wine list, and good small plates. $6-$30. 601 Junction Rd. 608664-9565. Madison–Far West, A-7. eno-vino.com FIREHOUSE SUBS: Most subs are hot — Philly cheesesteak, meatball, corned beef and pastrami and a beef brisket. Also salads, chili and soups. Other special hooks: kids combo meals, an “Under 500 Calorie” menu. $3-$7. 1403 Emil St. 608-257-1717. Madison– South, H-10. 7854 Mineral Point Rd. 608-829-1001. Madison–Far West, A-8 firehousesubs.com

GENNA’S COCKTAIL LOUNGE: Great hangout

a walnut burger for vegetarians. The chicken wings are also earning a name for themselves. $3-$11. 5956 Executive Dr. 608-442-9500. Fitchburg, E-11. funkspub.com FUZZY’S TACO SHOP: An import from Texas with Baja-style tacos. The tempura fish or shrimp are a house speciality and worth it; also serving shredded beef, pork and grilled veggies. Burritos, enchiladas and salads, plus Tex-Mex breakfast served all day. $2-$6. 3519 University Ave. 608-2321479. Madison–Near West, F-7. fuzzystacoshop.com

sonal menu; craft cocktail bar. $8-$18. 708 1/4 E. Johnson St. 608-609-4717. Madison–Near East, J-6. undergroundfoodcollective.org/ forequarter FRANKLIN GROVE ETC.: Steaks, seafood, pasta, flatbread pizzas, panini, salads, sandwiches, homemade soups. Friday fish fry; carry-outs available. $5-$22. N7302 Cty. X, Albany. 608862-1161.

with a popular happy-hour spread. 60 bottled beers, 12 taps, classic cocktails. 105 W. Main. St. 608-255-4770. Madison–Downtown, Q-8. gennaslounge. com

GLASS

NICKEL

PIZZA:

Well known for specialty pizzas including the all-time favorite, the Fetalicious, but don’t overlook non-pizza entrees: pasta, salads, subs, and the Mediterranean lasagna. $5$16. 2916 Atwood Ave. (eat-in dining room, bar). 608-245-0880. Madison– Near East, L-5. 3191 Muir Field Rd. 608-848-4877. Madison–Far West, B-11. 5003 University Ave. 608-2189000. Madison–Far West, E-6. 101 W. Main St. 608-834-9919. Sun Prairie. glassnickelpizza.com GOOD FOOD CART: Wraps or salads with several daily soups in cool weather. Sweet Thai chili, black bean hummus and the spring “Strawberry Love” special are uber-popular; or, build your own. $4-$9. E. Main and S. Pinckney food cart. Madison–Downtown. goodfoodmadison.com

GAIL AMBROSIUS CHOCOLATIER:

Fine handmade chocolates, with truffles, seasonal specialties and regional flavors. $2-$36. 2086 Atwood Ave. 608-249-3500. Madison–Near East, K-5. gailambrosius.com GATES & BROVI: Family-friendly, yet sophisticated — this focused menu includes burgers and sandwiches, but also lobster and Blue Point oysters and a few other coastal specialities. $4-$28. 3502 Monroe St. 608-819-8988. Madison–Near West, F-8. gatesandbrovi. com

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GREEN OWL CAFE: Veg-

GRAMPA’S PIZZERIA: Nice revamp of the former gun shop. Focused menu of small plates, market-driven salads and pizzas. Good wine list and local beers. $7-$14. 1374 Williamson St. 608-283-9580. Madison–Near East, K-6. grampaspizzeria.com

etarian and vegan. Excellent soups from chef-owner Jennie Capellaro. Also “crabby” cakes with mushroom and tofu and meatless meatball sub; lovely macrobiotic basics plate. Features a gluten-free menu. $6-$13. 1970 Winnebago St. 608-285-5290. Madison–Near East, K-5. thegreen owlcafe.com

GRAZE:

Locally sourced comfort foods drawn from a variety of cuisines in a contemporary space on the Square. Playful starters include pretzels, popcorn and pork buns. At brunch, choose decadent Nutellastuffed French toast. The pub burger is also a winner. $6-$24. 1 S. Pinckney St. 608-251-2700. Madison–Downtown, T-5. grazemadison.com GREAT DANE: Popular pub fare, from burgers to sandwiches to chicken pot pie and a spicy peanut stew. Glutenfree menu available. And up to 14 handcrafted beers on tap. $7-$16. 123 E. Doty St. 608-284-0000. Madison–Downtown, V-6. 876 Jupiter Dr. 608-442-1333. Madison–Far East, P-6. 2980 Cahill Main 608-442-9000. Fitchburg, G-11. 357 Price Place 608661-9400. Madison–Near West, E-7. greatdanepub.com

HA LONG BAY: Serene de-

cor, big menu with items from Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese cuisines. $3-$15. 1353 Williamson St. 608-255-2868. Madison–Near East, K-6. hlbmadison.com HAROLD’S CHICKEN SHACK: Fried chicken, fish and chicken livers. $3$25. 707 S. Gammon Road 608-8198010. Madison–Far West, B-9. harolds chicken33.com HARVEST: Slow food overlooking the Capitol. Menu changes seasonally; watch, too, for many special theme dinners, for heirloom tomatoes, garlic and more. $18-$28. 21 N. Pinckney St. 608255-6075. Madison–Downtown, R-4. harvest-restaurant.com

HERITAGE TAVERN: Kitchen draws

from local, carefully sourced, seasonal foods. Entrees include several vegetarian stars among the pork, beef, salmon, snapper and chicken. $6-$39. 131 E. Mifflin St. 608-283-9500. Madison– Downtown, S-3. heritagetavern.com HIGH NOON SALOON: Live music, bar games, Glass Nickel pizza by the slice, liquors, beers and wines. Happy hour Mon.-Fri. Available for private events. 701A E. Washington Ave. 608268-1122. Madison–Near East, J-6. high-noon.com

HILLDALE

SHOPPING

CENTER:

Stores and restaurants including Cafe Porta Alba, DB Infusion Chocolates, Dumpling Haus, Flat Top Grill, Fleming’s Prime Steak House, GiGi’s Cupcakes, the Great Dane Pub & Brewing Company, Metcalfe’s Market, Pasqual’s Southwest, Sundance Bar Bistro 608, Sushi Muramoto, Quiznos and a yearround farmers’ market. 702 N. Midvale Blvd. 608-233-6157. Madison–Near West, E-7. hilldale.com HIMAL CHULI: While the momochas, a dumpling with a coriander/tomato dipping sauce, have achieved local

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Ella’s Deli R D. Malt House MILWAUKEE ST. N N OA K S O O T S R G I N N A H I F O Next Door Glass E . J E . WA S H Nickel Brewing Daisy Cafe ATW O O D AV E Green Owl . Avenue Monty’s Blue Plate N Bar O The Spot S M A I Gail Ambrosius Surco Peruvian Forequarter Burrito Drive W I L L Chocolaterian High Noon Saloon Tex Tubb’s Crema Cafe One Barrel Brewing SITY AVE. DOWNTOWN Brew & Grow ’s (page 36) DEAN AVE. That BBQ Joint Pub Mickey’s ans Take Out Ha Long Bay PFLAUM RD. 151 zu Cafe JOH Batch Bakehouse Edo NN Grampa’s Pizzeria OLE chiban Barriques LAKESIDE ST. N Willy St. Co-op David’s Jamaican Taqueria Guadalajara DR. Jamerica Coliseum Bar DR . Weary Traveler Y Edo BROADWAY Jolly Bob’s HER BW AH TC Mother Fool’s H 12 18 Roman Candle E H W Y. Umami B E LT L IN A Pig in a Fur Coat Melly Mell’s Plan B Underground Butcher Sardine Banzo New Orleans Take Out Chocolate Shoppe

T OIN

cult status, the menu presents excellent Nepalese food across the board. $6-$14. 318 State St. 608-251-9225. Madison–Downtown, J-6. HOUSE OF BREWS: Tap room to local microbrewery. $2-$8. 4539 Helgesen Dr. 608-347-7243. Madison–Far East, N-7. houseofbrewsmadison.com IAN’S PIZZA: Slices with inventive toppings from mac ’n’ cheese to a steak dinner on a textbook-perfect crust. Mix-and-match, locally sourced salad at State Street location only. $3-$8. 319 N. Frances St. 608-257-9248. Madison–Downtown, E-8. 100 State St. 608442-3535. Madison–Downtown, N-6. ianspizza.com ICHIBAN: Spicy pleasures of Sechuan Chinese cuisine; order from the marker board specials. Noodle dishes and vegetables occupy the middle ground of the menu. $2-$13. 610 S. Park St. 608819-8808. Madison–Near West, H-8. ichibansichuan.com IMPERIAL GARDEN: Well-done Chinese favorites, such as pot stickers, treasure seafood and crispy duck. $3$14. 2039 Allen Blvd. 608-238-6445. Middleton, C-5. imperialgarden.com

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ISTHMUS DINING | The Guide to Advertisers & Mentioned Restaurants

Eating at the bar For a lot of eaters, fully experiencing a restaurant means waiting at the hostess stand, being seated at a table and interacting with the environment through a single waiter or waitress. It feels welcoming and safe. For me, I often find this contrived bit of dining theater constricting; I want more action. I find it at the bar. There are a number of reasons to eat at the bar. It can be less lonely while dining alone; it can mean better service because the bartender is always in front of you; it can be faster if you’re in a hurry; and since no one is waiting for your table, there’s no rush. But the number-one reason is that when sitting at the bar, you become a vicarious part of an establishment’s particular scene. For me, eating is as much social as gustatory, and I want to participate. I want to discover what makes a kitchen tick, engage with an employee or gain the perspective of a total stranger next to me. Not to say that a full sit-down dining experience is anything to be scoffed at, but if you let your inner comfortseeking introvert always win and direct you to a table, you’re missing out. — ANDRÉ DARLINGTON

JACS: Sandwiches with a Mediterranean influence. Flatbreads, salads, rabbit ragout, duck breast, fresh catch. Very gluten-free friendly. Craft beer and ciders. $8-$16. 2611 Monroe St. 608-441-5444. Madison–Near West, G-8. jacsdiningandtaphouse.com JAMERICA CARIBBEAN RESTAURANT: Homey restaurant with spicy

jerk chicken that’s fall-off-the-bone tender. Curried goat, jerk catfish and a variety of Jamaican sodas and beers. Catering. $6-$15. 1236 Williamson St. 608-251-6234. Madison–Near East, K-6. jamericarestaurant.com JEROME’S: Breakfast (until 2 pm!), lunch and dinner. Sandwiches, wraps and salads form the heart of the lunch menu; steaks and pasta dishes for dinner. $4-$21. 22 S. Carroll St. (in the Inn on the Park) 608-257-8811. Madison– Downtown, Q-8. innonthepark.net JOLLY BOB’S: Specializing in spicy Caribbean fare, including dishes with Jamaican, Puerto Rican, Trinidadian and Cuban influences. Jerk pork, jerk chicken and grilled fish. Choose from among over 50 rums, 20 top-shelf tequilas and 20 wines. $9-$16. 1210 Williamson St. 608-251-3902. Madison– Near East, K-6. jollybobs.com JORDAN’S BIG TEN PUB: Appetizers, lots of sandwiches (including whole pages of chicken sandwiches, burger variations and Reubens) and salads. Fish fry on Fridays. $4-$10. 1330 Regent St. 608-251-6375. Madison–Near West, H-7. jordansbig10pub.com

ISTHMUS DINING k 2014

KARBEN4 BREWING: Microbrewery

taproom with local food options. Pretzels, deviled eggs, soups. Underground Meats provides the charcuterie. $3-$17. 3698 Kinsman Blvd. 608-241-4811. Madison–Far East, M-2. karben4.com THE KITCHEN GALLERY: Cooking, kitchen and tableware and accessories, cookbooks, Rancho Gordo beans. 107 King St., 608-467-6544. Madison–Downtown, U-6. kitchengallery madison.com KJ’S CURRY BOWL: A variety of global dishes, from quesadillas to potstickers. Head for the curries, which are real Sri Lankan Sinhalese cuisine. Friday and Saturday Sri Lankan specials. $3-$10. 7005 Tree Ln. 608-841-1005. Madison– Far West, B-7. kjscurrybowl.com L’ETOILE: Beloved and nationally recognized restaurant, featuring locally grown ingredients and an ever-changing seasonal menu. A first-rate dining experience with Capitol views in a gracious dining room. Reservations are a good idea. $25-$40. 1 S. Pinckney St. 608-251-0500. Madison–Downtown, T-5. letoile-restaurant.com LA NENA/FRUTERIA ALI: Tacos, tortas, huaraches, gorditas, and weekday lunch specials along with a counter that makes specialty snow cones (raspados) and other fruit drinks. Takeout only. Inside Mercadito Madison. $2-$9. 3559 E. Washington Ave. 608-819-6008. Madison–Far East, M-3. LA TAGUARA: Venezuelan and Latin American dishes. Try the the Ven-

ezuelan national dish pabellon, or the arepas, or an empanada. $3-$13. 3502 E. Washington Ave. 608-721-9100. Madison–Far East, M-3. lataguaramadison.com LADONIA CAFE: All-vegan food cart with tamales, chocolate chip waffle plate, BLT sandwich with housemade seitan, home fries, salad, and killer housemade ginger limeade. $4-$8. Campus-area food cart. Madison– Downtown. ladoniacafe.com

LAREDO’S: Southern Mexi-

can cuisine. Favorites include the burritos, flautas, chiles rellenos and outstanding salsa. $3-$10. 4001 Lien Rd. 608-240-9701. Madison–Far East, N-3. 2933 S. Fish Hatchery Rd. 608-274-7370. Fitchburg, H-10. 694 S. Whitney Way 608-278-0585. Madison– Near West, D-8. laredosrestaurante. com LAZY OAF LOUNGE: 1/3-lb. burgers (any of which can be made as a veggie burger), sandwiches, pizzas and plenty of drinks, including Ale Asylum brews, with a large outdoor patio. Appetizers and fried items available from 10 pm to bartime. $2.5-$9. 1617 N. Stoughton Rd. 608-441-0370. Madison–Far East, M-3. lazyoaflounge.com LE TIGRE LOUNGE: Lauded for its cocktails, classic lounge atmosphere and jukebox. 1328 S. Midvale Blvd. 608-274-0944. Madison–Near West, E-9. LILIANA’S RESTAURANT: New Orleans cuisine with jambalaya, bouillabaisse, file gumbo, sea scallops, crabmeat tortelloni with corn maque choux. Muffaletta and oyster po’ boys are available at dinner as well as lunch. $5-$19. 2951 Triverton Pike 608442-4444. Fitchburg, G-11. lilianas restaurant.com

LOMBARDINO’S:

Upscale Italian, but also great pizzas and Caesar salad. Menu changes seasonally. $15-$31. 2500 University Ave. 608238-1922. Madison–Near West, G-7. lombardinos.com LOUISIANNE’S, ETC.: Fine French Creole cooking creates a perfect taste of New Orleans served in an elegant atmosphere. Also seafood, chicken, steaks. $13-$28. 7464 Hubbard Ave. 608-831-1929. Middleton, B-5. louisiannes.com LUIGI’S: Upbeat, family-friendly pizza and sandwich stop with thin-crust pizza, salads, panini, and oven-baked pastas. The chicken muffuletta with its olive-peppadew relish is a knockout. $5-$13. 515 S. Midvale Blvd. 608661-7663. Madison–Near West, F-9. luigismadison.com MADISON’S: Hamburgers, sandwiches, plus fish and steak dinners. $4-$17. 119 King St. 608-229-0900. Madison– Downtown, V-6. madisonsdowntown. com

MAHARAJA: Excellent, full range of Indian dishes. Don’t miss the stuffed breads, the tandoori, chicken tikka masala, and other curries. Or try it all at the all-you-can-eat lunch buffet. $8-$14. 6713 Odana Rd. 608-833-1824. Madison–Far West, N-3. maharajarestaurants.com THE MALT HOUSE: 150-

plus bottles and 18 tap beers. Some are rare. No food, although you can have pizza or whatever delivered. $2-$20. 2609 E. Washington Ave. 608204-6258. Madison–Near East, L-4. malthousetavern.com MANNA CAFE: From-scratch baked goods including breads, lush desserts and pastries. Inventive hot and cold sandwiches, quiches, soups and salads.

Thinking like a restaurant I’ve worked as a cook, an expediter for the dining room, busboy and headwaiter. Where most people only have one point of view, the one from the table, I try to see the experience holistically. When I eat out, I try to put myself in the mind of the chef. If the chicken entree is there as a “safe” option, choose something more adventurous. If one person is lingering over appetizers but everyone else is done, chances are good the chef is going to fire the entree anyway — meaning some dishes may be cooling by the time they hit your table. And always arrive right when a restaurant opens or right before it closes. These are the windows where the kitchen can treat each dish with the loving care it deserves.

— ADAM POWELL

$5-$7. 611 N. Sherman Ave. 608-6635500. Madison–North, K-4. mannacafe.com MARIGOLD KITCHEN: Personal touches abound at this busy breakfast/lunch bistro. Faves include chilipoached eggs, French toast drizzled with pastry cream and fresh berries, hearty sandwiches, salads and soups. $5-$10. 118 S. Pinckney St. 608-6615559. Madison–Downtown, U-6. marigoldkitchen.com MARRAKESH: Moroccan dishes both familiar and not, with a slight edge to the vegetarian preps. The appetizers make a fine meze or an outright meal. $7-$17. 5510 University Ave. 608238-7111. Madison–Far West, D-6. marrakeshrestaurant.net

MELLY MELL’S: Hidden on

the Frontage Road to the West Beltline (in the Genesis Enterprise Center) but well worth the trip. Chicken and waffles, fish and grits, and scandalously good fried chicken. There is an elevator for access. $3$9. 313 W. Beltline Hwy. 608-2709512. Madison–South, I-10. tasteof mellymell.com

MERCHANT: Well known

for craft cocktails, with 40some bourbons and other top ingredients on hand. But sandwiches and salads for lunch and small plates and a half-dozen entrees for dinner add to the draw. Great sliders. $3-$19. 121 S. Pinckney St. 608-259-9799. Madison–Downtown, U-6. merchant madison.com METCALFE’S MARKET: Extensive prepared food area with many local ingredients. Sushi bar, plus gourmet pizzas made to order. $2-$9. 726 N. Midvale Blvd. 608-238-7612. Madison–Near West, E-7. 7455 Mineral Point Rd., 608-829-3500. Madison– Far West, B-8. shopmetcalfes.com MICKEY’S TAVERN: The venerable tavern serves bar food with a twist, from burgers to mac ’n’ cheese. Don’t pass up the Sexy Fries, fried potato chips with a truffle oil dressing and grated Parmesan, or go for broke with the Super Sexy Fries. Brunch, too. $4-$13. 1524 Williamson St. 608251-9964. Madison–Near East, K-5. facebook.com/MickeysTavern MINERVA INDIAN CUISINE: South Indian cuisine is a focus. $7-$16. 515 Junction Rd. 608-203-9671. Madison–Far West, A-7.

MONTY’S BLUE PLATE DINER:

Popular neighborhood gathering spot, packing ’em in from breakfasts to the Friday fish fry. Plentiful vegetarian and some vegan options. It’s also the place to go for pie. $6-$10. 2089 Atwood Ave. 608-244-8505. Madison–Near East, K-6. montysblueplatediner.com

MOTHER FOOL’S COFFEEHOUSE:

All-vegan yummies including bagels, cookies and cupcakes. Nice hot soups, too. $1-$4. 1101 Williamson St. 608-259-1301. Madison–Near East, K-6. motherfools.com MR. DELIVERY: Delivery service for 54 restaurants. and food carts. mr delivery.com NATT SPIL: New dishes every week, but you might find thin-crust pizza,

a must-eat pork sandwich or an exceptional hoagie. $6-$10. 211 King St. No phone. Madison–Downtown, W-6. nattspil.com

NEW ORLEANS TAKEOUT: Eat mo’ bettah! Tasty

Creole cuisine to bring home and enjoy. Barbecued shrimp, shrimp etouffee, fried oysters and catfish. Finish with a heavenly slice of sweet potato pecan pie. $4-$11. 1920 Fordem Ave 608-2416655. Madison–Near East, K-5. 1517 Monroe St 608-280-8000. Madison– Near West, H-7. eatmobettah.com NEXT DOOR BREWING: Nanobrewery with at least three housemade ales on tap, seasonals, plus a menu serving small plates, snacks and two or three entrees. Beers are from “The Beer Professor,” Keith Symonds. $2-$10. 2439 Atwood Ave. 608-729-3683. Madison– Near East, L-5. nextdoorbrewing.com

NILE MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE:

Pillowy pita, fine crunchy falafel and Egyptian lentil soup are all good picks. $3-$10. 6119 Odana Rd. 608-274-1788. Madison–Far West, C-8. nilemadison. com

NITTY GRITTY RESTAURANT & BAR: Well known for dispensing free

soda or beer on someone’s birthday in a keepsake mug. Burgers are popular, but there are also sandwiches and daily specials. $6-$10. 223 N. Frances St. 608251-2521. Madison–Downtown, E-9. 1021 N. Gammon Rd. 608-833-6489. Middleton, B-6. 315 E. Linnerud Dr. 608-837-4999, Sun Prairie. nittygritty birthdaybar.com

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NONNO’S RISTORANTE ITALIANO:

Old-school Italian favorites, with good pizza and pasta and fresh seafood dishes. $6-$24. 704 S. Whitney Way 608661-9254. Madison–Far West, D-9. NOSTRANO: Contemporary menu with Italian and other Mediterranean influences, craft cocktails and the best desserts in town from James Beard Award-nominated pastry chef Elizabeth Dahl. Seasonal, locally sourced ingredients. $5-$19. 111 S. Hamilton St. 608395-3295. Madison–Downtown, R-8. nostranomadison.com NOVANTA: Neopolitan pizza with housemade mozzarella, salads, and panini. From the folks who brought you Cafe Porta Alba. $4-$12. 8452 Old Sauk Rd. 608-831-7740. Madison–Far West, A-6. facebook.com/novantamadison THE OLD FASHIONED: Upscale Wisconsin tavern a contradiction in terms? Enjoy your favorites in a civilized throwback. Wurst plates, mac ’n’ cheese and classic burgers, plus a Friday fish fry. Serves breakfasts weekdays. $5-$28. 23 N. Pinckney St. 608-3104545. Madison–Downtown, R-4. theold fashioned.com ONE BARREL BREWING: Small-batch brewery with limited, but local, food menu of Fraboni’s pizzas, Stalzy’s pretzels and local cheese plates. $2-$8. 2001 Atwood Ave. 608-630-9286. Madison– Near East, K-5. onebarrelbrewing.com OPUS LOUNGE: Transglobal smorgasbord of small dishes. Also serving fine wines, and a variety of champagne and desserts. $3-$14. 116 King St. 608441-6787. Madison–Downtown, U-6. opuslounge.com

The Kitchen Gallery Exceptional Culinary Provisions

Together Again!

Saturday

L ive Deliciously

Jan 17

2015

ticket sales start october 1 watch the web for details

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107 KING STREET, MADISON 608.467.6544 www.kitchengallerymadison.com

ISTHMUS DINING k 2014

ISTHMUS DINING | The Guide to Advertisers & Mentioned Restaurants OSTERIA PAPAVERO: “Casual Italian

cuisine” with sensual treats like Bresaola Rucola e Granta (air-dried beef, arugula, and grana padano cheese). With sandwiches, salads and bread sides for lunch; pasta, seafood and meat entrees for dinner. $5-$16. 128 E. Wilson St. 255-8376. Madison–Downtown, W-6. osteriapapavero.com PARADISE LOUNGE: Burgers, sandwiches, brats and fries. Noon-hour specials for the lunch crowd include meatloaf, enchiladas and Friday fish fry. $3-$6. 119 W. Main St. 608-2562263. Madison–Downtown, Q-8. thenewparadiselounge.com PAUL’S PEL’MENI: The little Russian dumplings come in meat, potato or a mixed order. Don’t skip the curry sauce! $4-$7. 203 W. Gorham St. 608354-1713. Madison–Downtown, J-5. facebook.com/PaulsPelmeni PINE CONE RESTAURANT: Dinerstyle near the Interstate. Big breakfasts; bakery items including eclairs, cream puffs and cinnamon rolls; sandwiches and salads; and dinners from steak and fish to liver and onions and spaghetti. Senior menu. $3-$14. 6162 Hwy. 51 (at I 39/90/94) 608-249-8778. De Forest. pineconerestaurant.com

PLAN B: Gay dance and nightclub. 924 Williamson St. 608-257-5262. Madison–Near East, J-6. planbmadison.com. QUAKER STEAK & LUBE: Fried munchies, sandwiches, soups and salads, but the main claim to fame is the 16 different flavors of chicken wings, all rated according to heat factor. $3$15. 2259 Deming Way 608-831-5823. Middleton, A-5. thelube.com RARE: Steakhouse coming to 14 W. Mifflin St. Madison–Downtown, 0-5. RED ROCK SALOON: Southern barbecue, Texas chili, burgers, super-hot wings with a variety of sauces. Barbecue mostly comes as sandwiches, but there’s also a rib dinner. Fun besides the food includes a mechanical bull. $3-$21. 322 W. Johnson St. 608-7095200. Madison–Downtown, X-0. redrockmadison.com REDAMTE COFFEE HOUSE: Coffeehouse with

breakfast; lunch has soup and a halfdozen sandwiches, four of which are vegetarian. Locally sourced ingredients. Elevator is available. $2-$9. 449 State St. 608-819-8650. Madison–Downtown, G-6. redamte.com ROCK N WOOL WINERY: Wisconsin wines produced near Poynette. Tours available by appointment, 608-6354339. rocknwoolwinery.com

ROMAN CANDLE PIZZA:

Pizza by the pie or slice, pasta, salads, as at the Willy Street location. Also offers Chocolate Shoppe ice cream. $3-$14. 1054 Williamson St.$608-258-2000. Madison–Near East , K-6. 1920 Parmenter St. 608-831-7777. Middleton, B-5. In the Madison Children’s Museum at 100 N. Hamilton St. 608-287-3982. Madison–Downtown, Q-3. theromancandle.com SA-BAI THONG: Thai food, featuring curries, noodle dishes and stir-fries. $7$15. 6802 Odana Rd. 608-828-9565. Madison–Far West, C-8. 2840 Univer-

ISTHMUS DINING k 2014

sity Ave. 608-238-3100. Madison–Near West, F-6. sabaithong.com

SARDINE: Lakeside dining in the Machinery Row complex. Fresh grilled sardines, as well as salmon, bass, skate and mussels, with pasta, beef and chicken rounding out the thoughtful menu. Sunday brunch is also a special treat here. $6-$20. 617 Williamson St. 608-441-1600. Madison–Near East, J-6. sardinemadison.com SOL’S ON THE SQUARE: Homestyle Korean favorites including bibimbap, bulgogi and noodle bowls. $6-$32. 117 E.. Mifflin St. 608-251-0116. Madison– Downtown, R-3. THE SPOT: Burgers, duck and boar sausages, cioppino, lime-fig chicken, churrasco beef and portabella and polenta stew are among the internationalish entrees. Also wine, select cocktails, and six solid local beers on tap. A ramp in the back provides accessibility. $5-$16. 827 E. Johnson St. 608-2517768. Madison–Near East, J-6. thespot madison.com SPRECHER’S RESTAURANT & PUB:

Flatbreads, wraps, burgers and sandwiches. Dinner includes the same, with more entrees and wood-fired steaks and seafood. By any measure, a huge menu. $9-$20. 1262 John Q Hammons Dr. 608-203-6545. Madison–Far West, A-6. sprecherspub.com

STATE STREET BRATS: Satellite sports and plenty of large screens; full bar with a microbrew selection; daily lunch specials; and of course: brats. $3$6. 603 State St. 608-255-5544. Madison–Downtown, D-6. statestreetbrats. com SURCO PERUVIAN : Peruvian cuisine with arroz con pollo (chicken and rice), ahi de gallina (shredded chicken in creamy sauce), lomo sandwich (steak, onion and avocado in a boule). $8-$30. 515 Cottage Grove Rd. 608-467-6814. Madison–Near East, M-6. Also campus-area food cart. SUSHI MURAMOTO: Fresh

nigiri sushi, sushi rolls, sushi bar and other modern Japanese food. Asian-inspired cocktails. $14-$20. 546 N. Midvale Blvd. 608-441-1090. Madison–Near West, E-7. muramoto.biz. TAKARA: Fine miso soup, tempura and sushi. Beautiful bento box lunches, too. $2-$17. 315 State St. 608-2680188. Madison–Downtown, J-6. 696 S. Whitney Way 608-270-1188. Madison– Far West, D-8. takaramadison.com TAQUERIA EL JALAPENO: Try the huge Molcajete El Jalapeno (chicken, pork, shrimp, chorizo, steak, pickled carrots, cactus and cheese); for tacos, it’s all about the lengua, though others are good. Weekend specials include a great carnitas (pork). $2-$17. 1318 S.

Adventure on wheels I trace my curiosity about food sold from small hut-like outlets back to a family trip out west when I was eight. In Scottsbluff, Neb., we saw booths that looked like Fotomat kiosks selling something called “tacos.” “What’s a taco?” I asked my parents. (First clue that this was long ago is the Fotomat reference; the second, that no one in the family knew what a taco was.) “It’s a kind of pancake,” I remember them saying. “Can we get one?” “No.” Now I’m free to step up to any cart, truck, booth or gazebo and order whatever I like. It feels like vacation. It’s easy to chat with the person who cooked your food — often the same person dishing up the goods. I love the friendly mother-daughter team who make the home-style Japanese food at the Zen Sushi cart. It was there I first encountered unfussy stews like Oyako-donburi and Niku-Jaga that I liked so much I learned how to make them at home. I love the messages they post on Facebook announcing their specials and reminding their mostly student clientele to “dress warmly” against the cold weather. Zen Sushi has accomplished the trick of bringing a distant land to Madison and yet making downtown Madison more like a neighborhood.

— LINDA FALKENSTEIN

Midvale Blvd. 608-709-1345. Madison– Near West, E-9. facebook.com/pages/ Taqueria-El-Jalapeno TAQUERIA GUADALAJARA: Tacos, tortas, huaraches, sopes, and gorditas. Specialties include parrillada for four (tableside grill of traditional meats, and cactus) and somewhat pared-down versions platillo mi rancho and platillo Guadalajara. $2-$11. 1033 Park St. 608- 250-1824. Madison–South, I-8. lataqueriaguadalajara.com TEMPEST OYSTER BAR: Big seafood appetizers, like a tower of oysters, shrimp and clams, usher in a seafood-focused menu. Whitefish cakes, smoked fish platter, fruit de mer, sturgeon and blue marlin are all worthy picks. $14-$42. 120 E. Wilson St. 608258-1443. Madison–Downtown, W-7. tempestoyster.com TEX TUBB’S TACO PALACE: Tacos, burritos, tostadas, enchiladas and a raft of clever fillings, including fish, fried avocado, fried chicken and more. $2$11. 2009 Atwood Ave. 608-242-1800. Madison–Near East, K-5. textubbs tacos.com THAT BBQ JOINT: Slow-smoked barbecue, sides including hand-cut fries. Mostly takeout; limited indoor seating of about a dozen seats. $3-$9. 1511 Williamson St. 608-709-1300. Madison–Near East, K-5. thatbbqjoint.com TIPSY COW: A downtown Wisconsinstyle tavern with good daily specials: Thursday’s PBR-battered fish tacos are a must, as is Friday’s fish fry. Among the sandwiches, salads and soups, beef comes from Knoche’s; wurst are from Usinger’s; bacon is Nueske’s. Featured brews are well curated. $5-$11. 102 King St. 608-287-1455. Madison– Downtown, U-6. tipsycowmadison.com

TORNADO STEAK HOUSE:

Classic supper club atmosphere with top-notch steaks, pork tenderloin, venison, rabbit, and seafood. $17-$42. 116 S. Hamilton St. 608256-3570. Madison–Downtown, Q-8. tornadosteakhouse.com TUTTO PASTA TRATTORIA: 40 varieties of pasta, including conchiglie, penne, capellini, fettuccine, fusilli, rigatoni, with an excellent linguine alle vongole verace. Pizzas, panini as well. $6-$19. 305 State St. 608-294-1000. Madison–Downtown, K-6. foodspot. com/tuttopasta

UMAMI RAMEN & DUMPLING BAR: Japanese ramen

and Chinese dumplings, in a converted house. The pork buns and the tonkotsu ramen are tops. $10-$30. 923 Williamson St. 608-819-6319. Madison–Near East, J-6. umamimadison.com

UNDERGROUND BUTCHER: Local meats, housemade

charcuterie. The sandwich menu varies based on what is seasonal and available. $6-$9. 811 Williamson St. 608338-1527. Madison–Near East, J-6. undergroundbutcher.com VILLAGE GREEN: Hamburgers, corned-beef Rueben and full sandwich menu. Daily specials, and the Bass Alebattered fish fry on Friday is ever-popular. $3-$10. 7508 Hubbard Ave. 608831-9962. Middleton, B-5. thevillage greenmiddleton.com

Creating the total beer experience When I go out, I take a very conscious look at the tap list — considering what I might want to eat, for proper pairing, but also to add as much value as I can to the experience of a beer out on the town. I don’t always go for the fancy-pants rare taps. Sometimes I want something simple, straightforward, ubiquitous, like a Hopalicious. But I would be lying if I didn’t admit to looking over the tap list, scanning for beers I can’t get in bottles easily — your Goose Island Bourbon County Barleywines, your Dave’s Brew Farm Funk Series — and submarining whatever food plans I might have had in the interest of pairing something with a must-drink beer. On very rare occasions, even I, overthinking drinker that I am (just ask my wife), will say to hell with it and drink for beer’s sake, pairing be damned. I love finding sneaky-good tap lists around town: Roast, Blue Moon, Grampa’s Pizzeria. Even Dexter’s, a spot every beer geek in Madison knows, still surprises me sometimes. I love seeing what elaborate configuration of glassware will carry my beer to my lips at Brasserie V, and whether the inscribed brand matches the beer I’m drinking. I love the first sniff, the first sip, the last. And the impending joy is what makes that first glance at the beer list such an essential and exciting part of my Madison dining experience.

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Favorite neighborhood gathering place, home of “Bob’s Bad Breath Burger” (with garlic, onions and cream cheese), sandwiches and other world-cuisine-influenced entrees, like the West of the Andes sandwich. Late night menu. $4-$12. 1201 Williamson St. 608-442-6207. Madison–Near East, K-6. wearytravelerfreehouse.com

WILLY STREET CO-OP:

The deli has to-go entrees, veggie and vegan options; salad bar

for fresh organic salads; juice bar. After East’s remodel is complete, both East and West will have a hot bar. $3-$10. 1221 Williamson St. 608-251-6776. Madison–Near East, K-6. 6825 University Ave. 608-284-7800. Middleton, C-5. willystreet.coop. WOLLERSHEIM WINERY: Historic winery with tours and tastings yearround. Wine garden and wine shop with wine accessories available. $6-$22. 7876 Hwy. 188 608-643-6515. Sauk City. wollersheim.com WOODSHED ALE HOUSE: Craft beer, including brews from Madison’s Vintage; plus wine and cocktails. Housemade pizzas are available with a variety of toppings. $9-$11. 101 Jackson St. (608) 370-8200. Sauk City. facebook. com/WoodshedAleHouse ZEN SUSHI : Homestyle Japanese food, with handmade sushi rolls and a rotating menu of daily specials both hot and cold. $4-$8. Campus area food cart. sites. google.com/site/zensushilibrarymall ZUZU CAFE: Breakfasts, sandwiches, side salads and kids meals, with an emphasis on healthy materials including options for soy and or organic milk. $3.5-$6. 1336 Drake St. 608-260-9898. Madison– Near West, H-7. thezuzucafe.com

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— KYLE NABILCY

Comfort-food standards. Good burgers; try the Blue Heaven. Brewing on site. $5-$20. 674 S. Whitney Way 608204-2739. Madison–Far West, D-8. vintagebrewingcompany.com VINTAGE SPIRITS & GRILL: Fun food for the bar crowd. Sandwiches, salads, burgers; fish fry featuring walleye or cod. 14 tap beers. $5-$9. 529 University Ave. 608-250-0700. Madison–Downtown, E-8. vintagemadison.com VOM FASS: Specialty oils, vinegars and spirits; gift baskets and sampler sets. 3248 University Ave. 608-2040300. Madison–Near West, F-6. madison.vomfassusa.com.

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ISTHMUS DINING k 2014

Comfort me with apples...

and maple syrup, krumkake, morels, haggis, watermelon, pierogies, Bienenstich, fry bread... Wisconsin food festivals for 2014 Corn on the cob, fresh from the fields, steamed, buttered and salted. Lefse like MorMor used to make. Cheese and more cheese. A beer and a brat. These you will find in the booths and under the tents in festivals across the state, accompanied by bands, fun runs, art fairs, face-painting and the occasional fishing tournament. Have fun! We dare you not to. We recommend confirming event details before making any long drives. Maple Syrup Fest

1-3 pm, March 30, Aldo Leopold Nature Center, Monona

Tapping trees, making maple syrup, cooking demos and ice cream sundaes topped with maple syrup. aldoleopold naturecenter.org/event/maple-syrup-fest.

Maple Syrup Festival

April 5, Mackenzie Environmental Education Center, W7303 County Road CS & Q, Poynette

Pancake breakfast, guided tours of the sugarbush, demonstrations on tapping a maple tree and making syrup, plus ice cream being churned. mackenziecenter.com. 608-635-8105.

Isthmus a la Carts

May 9, Olin Park, Madison

Bringing together a variety of the city’s food carts in one place with a beautiful view of the skyline. Time to try new cuisines, close to home. isthmusala carts.com. 608-251-5627.

Syttende Mai

May 16-18, Stoughton

The 17th of May is Norwegian Constitution Day, but you don’t need a Norwegian constitution to enjoy traditional Norwegian food. Look for krumkake, lefse wraps, Norwegian meatballs, sandbakkels and herring. Plus Viking dogs, burgers, cheese curds, pickle on a stick and more. stoughtonwi.com. 608-873-7912.

Morel Mushroom Festival May 17-18, Muscoda

Muscoda became Wisconsin’s Morel Capital in 1982. Instead of spending hours poking under dead leaves for the elusive morsels, head straight to this annual fest. Available fried, or buy a bunch to cook at home. muscoda.com. 608-739-3182.

Chocolate Fest

May 23-26, Festival Grounds, Burlington

There will be chef cook-offs, a chocolate-eating contest, cooking demonstrations, free Tollhouse cookies for kids, a cookie decoration contest, bands and other entertainment. chocolatefest.com. 262-763-3300.

World’s Largest Brat Fest

May 23-26, Willow Island, Alliant Energy Center, Madison

Brats, including a special Chicken Chipotle Monterey Jack version and a Field Roast Veggie Frankfurter, plus hot dogs, celebrity cashiers and bands, bands, bands. bratfest.com.

Festa Italia

May 30-June 1, McKee Farms Park, Fitchburg

A celebration of Madison’s longstanding Italian community. The Italian Workmen’s Club hosts. Expect a no-holds-barred spaghetti-and-meatball dinner. iwcmadison.com/festa-2014. 608-258-1880.

Burgers & Brew

4:30-7:30 pm, May 31, Capital Brewery, Middleton

Three locally sourced burgers, paired with three Wisconsin microbrews; $30, to benefit REAP Food Group. reapfoodgroup.org.

Side Pork Fest

May 31, Martin Park, Sturgeon Bay

There’s a side pork cook-off, along with bands, kid activities and a fun run. sideporkfest.com.

Rhubarb Days

June 6-7, Mill Pond Park, Osceola

Rhubarb bakeoff on Saturday in the categories of pies, cakes, bars, breads, jam/jellies, cobblers/ crisps, cookies and miscellaneous. After judging, all will be sold by the slice to benefit the public library. rhubarbdays.com. Isthmus Dining k 2014

Great Wisconsin Cheese Festival

Milwaukee Irish Fest

In Wisconsin, cheese is for every meal, plus a basis for sculpture. This fest offers cheese carving, a cheese breakfast, a cheese-curd-eating competition and a cheesecake contest. littlechutewi.org. 920-788-7390.

Irish food, dancing, clan reunions. irishfest.com. 414-476-3378.

June 6-8, Doyle Park, Little Chute

Aug. 14-17, Henry Maier Festival Park, Milwaukee

Sweet Corn Festival

Aug. 14-17, Angell Park (Hwy. 19 and N), Sun Prairie

70 tons of steamed fresh sweet corn on the cob. Get a tote or a single ear of corn, pull down the husk and rub in butter and salt, then relax and enjoy the band. Corn served Sat. and Sun. noon7 pm. sunprairiechamber.com. 608-837-4547.

Cows on the Concourse June 7, Madison

Meet a local cow on the Capitol Square 8 am-1 pm and sample milk, cheese and ice cream. cowsontheconcourse.org. 608-250-4257.

Taste of Madison

Aug. 30-31, Capitol Square, Madison

Sample food from more than 80 area restaurants. tasteofmadison.com. 608-276-9797.

Highland Games/Scottish Fest 9 am-10 pm, June 7, Hart Park, 7300 Chestnut St., Wauwatosa

Vendors usually offer fish and chips, meat pies, sausage rolls and Scotch eggs. You may luck into some authentic haggis. Other fun includes stone putts and the throwing of large objects, piping, dancing and sheepdog demos. milwaukee scottishfest.com. 414-422-9235.

Mad City Vegan Fest

10 am-5 pm, June 7, Goodman Community Center, 149 Waubesa St., Madison

Local vegan food from carts and restaurants, as well as samples from national vendors. veganfest.org.

Rock County Pork Fest

Indian Summer Festival Bienenstich, or bee sting cake, features caramelized almond topping and cream filling.

Cedarburg Strawberry Festival

June 28-29, Sat. 10 am-6 pm, Sun. 10 am-5 pm, Cedarburg

This is where you’ll find the original strawberry brat, strawberry shortcake, strawberry pie, strawberry crepes, strawberry slushies, strawberry schaum torte, chocolate-covered strawberries and strawberry cheesecake, plus strawberry blush wine and a Sunday morning strawberry pancake breakfast (8-11 am). cedarburgfestivals.org. 262-377-3891.

June 11, Rock County 4H Fairgrounds, Janesville

Bastille Days

Polish Fest

Festival-goers can sample French and Cajun cuisine at sidewalk cafes while enjoying live music and street performers. The mini-Parisian atmosphere is completed with a 43-foot-tall Eiffel Tower replica. easttown.com. 414-271-1416.

Drive-up begins at 4 pm, walk-in serving at 5 pm. Bone-in pork chops, beans, potato salad. rockcountyporkproducers.com. June 13-15, Henry W. Maier Festival Park, Milwaukee

Open at noon daily. You can expect Polish sausage and the filled dumplings known as pierogies, but you may also find bigos (hunter’s stew), zupa grzybowa (mushroom soup) and placki ziemniaczane (potato pancakes). Polish vodka tastings require an extra ticket. polishfest.org. 414-529-2140.

Taste of Wisconsin

Noon-4 pm, June 14, Beaver Dam

Craft beer and cheese tasting event of products made in Wisconsin. Fortunately there’s plenty to choose from. Tickets can be purchased in advance through tasteofwisconsin.net.

Door County Beer Festival June 14, Bailey’s Harbor

140 beers for sampling, cheese, local food. doorcountybeer.com. 920-839-2366.

Cesky Den Czech Heritage Festival June 14-15, Fireman’s Park, Hwy. 33, Hillsboro

The Czech dinner (roast pork, dumplings and sauerkraut) is at 11 am Saturday. Czech beer; Czech baked goods are also for sale. ceskyden.com. 608-489-2521.

Pig in the Park State Championship BBQ Cook-Off June 14-15, Cravath Park, Whitewater

piginthepark.net.

Father’s Day Chicken BBQ

10:30 am-2:30 pm, June 15, McKellar Park, Blanchardville

On the grill: chicken and baked potatoes, coleslaw, cheese, ice cream. $12/$8 kids. blanchardville.com. 608-523-4215.

Fyr Bal Festival June 21, Ephraim

Scandinavian festival and fish boil. 920854-4989.

July 10-13, East Town/Cathedral Square Park, Milwaukee

Catfish Days

July 11-13, Trempeleau

Catfish and music all three days. Less predictably, there’s a bass and walleye fishing tournament on Saturday. trempealeau.net/catfish-days.

Festa Italiana

July 18-20, Henry Maier Festival Park, Milwaukee

Italian food and wine. festaitaliana.com.

Port Washington Fish Day July 19, Port Washington

Billed as the “World’s largest outdoor one-day fish fry,” Fish Day features nine stands from service organizations selling fish and chips or, for those who were somehow dragged along unwillingly to this event, chicken. portfishday.com.

German Fest

July 25-27, Henry Maier Festival Park, Milwaukee

This is one of the biggies, with currywurst, sauerbraten, schnitzel, potato pancakes, fried herring, sauerkraut, Bienenstich, Sachertorte and other pastries, tortes and strudels. And of course there’s beer. germanfest.com. 414-464-9444.

Greekfest

July 26-27, Assumption Greek Orthodox Church, Seventh Street & East Washington Avenue, Madison, Sat. 3-9 pm, Sun. 11 am-6 pm.

A local favorite. Traditional Greek-style roast lamb and chicken dinners, spanakopita, gyros sandwiches, Greek salads, honey puffs, baklava and Greek pastries. agocwi.org. 608-244-1001.

Brat Days

July 31-Aug. 2, Kiwanis Park, Sheboygan

Brats can be found everywhere in Wisconsin in the summer, but here, the celebration is truly of the bratwurst. Past years have featured brat on a stick, brat jambalaya, brat barbecue, brat egg rolls, brat tacos and deep-fried veggies with a brat, and surely the innovation will continue. If there is no beer, we will eat our hats. brat-days.com. 920-803-8980.

Sept. 5-7, Henry Maier Festival Park, Milwaukee

This Native American powwow and celebration usually features foods such as Native American flatbread with various toppings, buffalo, venison, freshwater fish, Indian tacos, wild rice casserole, turkey, roasted corn, Native garden bean soup and more. indiansummer.org. 414-604-1000.

Watermelon Festival

10 am, Sept. 6, Chandler Park, Pardeeville

The slices of watermelon are free. Expect contests centered on melon carving, melon eating and seed spitting. pardeevillewatermelon festival.com.

Wisconsin State Chili Cookoff Sept. 6, Deacon Mills Park, Green Lake

Chefs from around the Midwest come to compete for the title of “creator of the best chili in Wisconsin,” plus other entertainment. Cooking starts at 11 am, judging at 3 pm, with sampling afterward. visitgreenlake.com. 920-294-6504.

Chilimania

11 am-midnight, Sept. 6, downtown Edgerton

Chili cookoff, with public chili tasting 3 pm, other food concessions and bands. There’s also a salsa contest. chilimania.com. 608-561-7566.

Wild Rice Days

Sept. 13, Lac du Flambeau

Wild rice and Indian fry bread cooking contest, pie eating contest and Native food vendors. 715-588-3346.

Cheese Days

Sept. 19-21, Monroe

100th anniversary year for this every-otheryear fest should be a big one. There are usually lots of cheeses to sample, plenty of other foods, and a great likelihood of beer also being available. cheesedays.com.

Food for Thought Festival

Sept. 20, Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., Madison

Over 40 organizations, farms and restaurants; local foods tent; cooking and tasting demos. reapfoodgroup.org.

Cranberry Festival Sept. 26-28, Warrens

Cranberries are a big deal in Wisconsin agriculture. Bus tours of a cranberry marsh run every 15 minutes from 8 am to 3 pm. Fri. and Sat. Cranberry cream puffs and pancakes with cranberry syrup are some of the cranberry-enhanced foods available. cranfest.com. 608-378-4200.

Apple Festival

Sept. 27-28, Gays Mills

Celebrate the apple in the epicenter of southern Wisconsin’s apple country, traveling from orchard to orchard along the unglaciated ridge that overlooks the town. Pancake and sausage breakfast at the Congregational church 7-11 am and apple pie at the Methodist church 10:30 am-5 pm both days. Apple fest parade Sunday, 1:30 pm. gaysmills.org. 608-735-4341. ❋ — compiled by Linda Falkenstein Isthmus Dining k 2014

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A taste of the Northwoods, featuring comfort food - turkey leg dinner, grilled cheese fondue, buffalo pot pie & lamb burgers. 24 craft beers on tap (soda too!), wine, craft cocktails. Family friendly!

Fine Casual Food Fine Casual Food Craft Beer Craft Beer Cocktails Inspired Cocktails Insp115ired State St. • 608-230-7999 • www.buckandbadger.com

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Make Reservations Online! 119 King St • 608.229.0900 Hours: M-Sat 4pm-2am www.madisonsdowntown.com

Rare Madison’s new elite steakhouse is coming to the Square this spring. 14 W. Mifflin • rareonthesquare.com Madison’s new elite steakhouse is coming to the Square this spring. 14 W. Mifflin • rareonthesquare.com

Downtown Madison Maps, Gift Certificates, Event Information and More at visitdowntownmadison.com

JAPANESE STEAKHOUSE RESTAURANT

The Tatami Room Ideal for Parties or Gatherings Elegant Sushi Bar • Cocktail Bar Cozy Dining Room • Hibachi Grill Voted Best of Madison 2005-2013

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ISTHMUS OF MADISON

Smart, original, timely content in print and online

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covering news, politics, food, drink, music, theater, movies, shopping, sports and more, all integral to life in the capital region. Isthmus emphasizes journalistic

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Happy Hour, Daily Lunch & Drink Specials FREE POOL Mon & Thur 9pm-Close Open 7 days a week 6:30 am-7pm

112 King St. • 608-255-0285 2871 University Ave. • 608-233-5287

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Serving Food Daily until 1:30am!

119 W. Main St. Madison 608-256-2263 www.thenewparadiselounge.com

excellence, award-winning writing and high-quality design, along with a sharply honed, curatorial instinct for local happenings, and the best guides in town.

ALL YOURS, ALWAYS FREE

Isthmus u 101 King Street u Madison WI 53703 608.251.5627 web TheDailyPage.com u mobile m.Isthmus.com facebook Isthmus u twitter @IsthmusTDP

Willy West: 6825 University Ave., Middleton • (608) 284-7800 Willy East: 1221 Williamson St., Madison • (608) 251-6776 Open 7:30 am- 9:30pm daily • www.willystreet.coop

In the new Willy East Deli New sandwich recipes, panini, and your old faves: salad bar, service case, grab & go, and fresh sushi. Self-serve hot bar open 7:30am–8pm

Fresh, local, organic. Yours!