Isthmus Dining 2016 by Isthmus

ISTHMUS

D NING 2016

Rare Indeed.

Prime dry-aged steaks. Madison’s largest wine list. Capitol view. Whatever brings you to Rare Steakhouse in Madison, you will have a unique experience here.

A classic steakhouse serving dinner seven nights a week

14 W. Mifflin St., Madison • 608-204-9000 rareonthesquare.com

Modern German in Madison There is something for everyone in this modern style of European dining that is being brought to Madison for the first time by the Freiburg Gastropub team. Enjoy our communal seating the way it was meant to be: with family style dinner specials available Sunday through Thursday.

2616 Monroe Street Madison • 608-204-2755 Mon-Tue 11am – 9pm, Wed-Thur 11am – 10pm Fri 11am-11pm, Sat 10am-11pm, Sun 10am-9pm Brunch served Saturday and Sunday from 10am – 2pm

www.freiburgmadison.com

EVERYDAY GOOD local • farm fresh • delicious

HILLDALE 726 N. Midvale Blvd.

WEST TOWNE 7455 Mineral Point Rd

ISTHMUS DINING 2016

Jeff Haupt P U B L I S HE R Craig Bartlett A S S O C I AT E P U B L I S HE R Judith Davidoff E D I T O R Linda Falkenstein, I S T HM U S D ININ G E D I T O R Michana Buchman A S S O C I AT E E D I T O R Bob Koch C A L E ND A R E D I T O R Carolyn Fath A R T D IR E C T O R David Michael Miller, Tommy Washbush S TA F F A R T I S T S Todd Hubler A D V E R T I S IN G P R O D U C T I O N M A N A G E R Chad Hopper A D V E R T I S IN G M A N A G E R

Food made from scratch in Madison and Middleton with organic & local ingredients.

Laura Miller A D V E R T I S IN G A S S I S TA N T Lindsey Bushart, Peggy Elath, Amy Miller A D V E R T I S IN G R E P R E S E N TAT I V E S Chris Winterhack M A R K E T IN G D IR E C T O R Tom Dehlinger C IR C U L AT IO N M A N A G E R Jeri Casper W E B A N A LY S T Thom Jones SY S T E M S M A N A G E R Kathy Bailey A D MINI S T R AT I V E D IR E C T O R Julie Butler O F F I C E M A N A G E R Carla Dawkins A D MINI S T R AT I V E A S S I S TA N T C O N T R IB U T O R S : Ragnar Aalbu, Philip Ashby, Cody Bond, Linda Falkenstein, Allison Geyer, Chris Hynes, Stephanie Hofmann, Chris Kronser, Paulius Musteikis, Kyle Nabilcy, Adam Powell, Alexander Risch, Sharon Vanorny, Ryan Wisniewski, Laura Zastrow, Rosemary Zurlo-Cuva

Isthmus Dining is distributed free with Isthmus: Madison’s Weekly Newspaper Vol. 41 No. 13

Fresh. Local. Organic. Yours! Join for as little as $10 for the first year, or a one-time payment of $58. www.willystreet.coop

ISTHMUS DINING 2016

CONTENTS HEAR, AND BE HEARD

PAGE 6

Seven restaurants where you can carry on a conversation—or just dine in a quiet, gracious atmosphere BY ROSEMARY ZURLO-CUVA

NOT BY BREAD ALONE PAGE 11 Madison’s bakeries make lovely loaves, but also sweets, sandwiches, gluten-free and vegan treats and yes, doughnuts BY ADAM POWELL

TEAM BRUNCH PAGE 16 You too can join Madison’s between-breakfast-andlunch revolution BY KYLE NABILCY

NOM-NOMENCLATURE PAGE 20 Madison’s culinary scene is serious, but humor finds its way onto menus BY ALLISON GEYER

12 MONTHS OF MEALS PAGE 24 Isthmus reviewers make the rounds of the latest restaurants

OUT OF SIGHT PAGE 34 Or, “I didn’t know there was a restaurant here!”

BY LINDA FALKENSTEIN

RESTAURANT INDEX PAGE 40 On the cover: This was quite a year for new burgers and beer spots. Photo of “The Classic” from HopCat by Sharon Vanorny.

ISTHMUS DINING 2016

HEAR, AND BE HEARD

DINE IN A QUIET, GRACIOUS ATMOSPHERE BY ROSEMARY ZURLO-CUVA ILLUSTR ATION BY STEPHANIE HOFMANN

IN THE ’70S, while I was still in college, my dad used to drive over from Milwaukee every once in a while and take me to dinner. He liked a good steak and a dry martini, served in a place that hummed with the sort of big-city energy most Madison restaurants lacked in those days. We would end up at places like Smoky’s Club, the Left Guard, or even, if he was up for a splurge, the Top of the Park. On one visit, I suggested we try a new place on State Street. I described 6

ISTHMUS DINING 2016

the French-inspired cuisine and gentle ambience of the original Ovens of Brittany, adding that it was quiet enough to enjoy a conversation without shouting. You could even hear yourself think, I said. “Why,” my father wondered aloud, “would you go to a restaurant to hear yourself think?” And off we went, back to the Left Guard. Madison’s restaurant scene has tilted decidedly in Dad’s favor in the years since we had that conversation. There

are so many lovely restaurants now, in which to eat often truly great food. Yet the predominant style — lots of soundreflective hard surfaces in large open spaces — creates that buzzy, celebratory and, yes, noisy energy my father so appreciated on a night out. I’m not here to say there is anything wrong with that, only to point out that also, on occasion, many of us would prefer to dine in an environment where the peaceful calm of a quiet conversation is possible,

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ISTHMUS DINING 2016

A modern interpretation of Italian, American, and French cuisines Serving dinner Monday - Saturday Private dining available A modern interpretation of Italian, American, and French cuisines 21 North Pinckney Street On the Capitol Square A modern interpretation of Italian,

608.255.6075 Serving dinnerAmerican, Monday -dining Saturday Serving diner Mon–Sat • Private available and French cuisines

PrivateStreet dining available 21 North Pinckney – On the Capitol- Saturday Square Serving dinner Mondaywww.harvest-restaurant.com 608.255.6075 • www.harvest-restaurant.com Private dining available 21 North Pinckney Street 21 North Pinckney Street On the Capitol Square On the Capitol Square 608.255.6075 608.255.6075

Open for weekday breakfast lunch, dinner www.harvest-restaurant.com and late night weekend brunch, www.harvest-restaurant.com

23 North Pinckney Street On the Capitol Square Open for weekday breakfast 608.310.4545 weekend brunch, lunch, dinner and late night www.theoldfashioned.com weekday breakfast

Open for North Pinckney Street weekend brunch,23On lunch, dinner the Capitol Square and late night 608.310.4545 Open for weekday breakfast, weekend brunch, lunch, dinner and late night www.theoldfashioned.com 23 North Pinckney Street On the Capitol Square 608.310.4545

23 North Pinckney Street – On the Capitol Square 608.310.4545 • www.theoldfashioned.com www.theoldfashioned.com

At Estrellón, the soundtrack is low and slow.

and where we don’t have to strain to hear what our dinner companions are saying. A number of Madison restaurants do offer quiet dining rooms along with a delicious meal. Here are a few of our favorites.

OUR GO-TO place in the white tablecloth

category is OTTO’S RESTAURANT. Set in a vintage brick farmhouse on the west side, Otto’s manages to be both elegant and casual, with excellent and unpretentious service. The menu, a variety of moderately expensive Mediterranean specialties, seafood and steaks, has never disappointed. On a recent Saturday night, we could hear jazz standards played at low volume, and the hum of people around us, though we were always able to converse in normal tones. Otto’s makes a great date night restaurant, or a good place to meet friends to catch up over dinner and a glass or two of wine. Reservations are advisable on the weekend. The new kid in this category, ESTRELLÓN , offers a beautifully appointed dining room and an exceptional staff, with a menu inspired by the cuisines of Spain. With many smaller plates that can be shared and combined, you may eat as big or as small as you like. The soundtrack, played at low volume, was Latin and techno on the night we visited and soft enough in the dining room to be unnoticeable. In the tapas bar, the surfaces are a bit harder, the music played at a somewhat louder volume, and still our party was able to enjoy a comfortable, unstrained conversation along with our hors d’oeuvres and a particularly 8

ISTHMUS DINING 2016

PAULIUS MUSTEIKIS

wonderful Monastrell. Be sure to make reservations for the dining room. The tapas bar is first come, first served. With its high ceilings, wooden tables and tall storefront windows, it seems counterintuitive that OSTERIA PAPAVERO should feel warm and intimate even when the place is packed. And yet it has become one of our favorite date night restaurants. With a menu of regional Italian specialties that changes daily and according to what is seasonally available, there is always something new and revelatory to try. An unrushed quality to the service encourages conversation while lingering over each course. On a recent visit we noticed standards from the ’40s and ’50s playing from somewhere near the bar at a volume that was entirely unobtrusive. Papavero takes reservations for special events only. Another among our favorites is LOMBARDINO’S . The atmosphere is relaxed and casual, the décor Mediterranean kitsch, the menu Italian and beautifully prepared. The food is so good, in fact, that the house is almost always full. In spite of this, Lombardino’s never seems loud. With several booths and a few nooks and crannies, it is possible at some tables to feel almost entirely alone with your dinner partners. Reservations are a good idea, but every once in a while we take our chances and try for dinner in the bar room, a smaller, brighter space, the seating more tightly packed, and yet, still quietly conversable.

Among the calmest of dining rooms in town would be TASTE OF INDIA . Tucked away in a corner of Knickerbocker Place on Monroe Street, its menu of both North and South Indian dishes is extensive and includes many vegetarian options, as well as tempting specialties from its tandoor ovens. The wait staff is uniformly softspoken and courteous and the CERTIFIED MEMBER music never played loudly. CERTIFIED MEMBER CERTIFIED MEMBER Reservations are not necessary, LOC AT E D ACROS S FRO M S U N DA N C E C IN E M A S CERTIFIED MEMBER CERTIFIED MEMBER though the place gets busy on Friday and Saturday evenings. CERTIFIED MEMBER LOC ATE D AC ROS LOCSATED FROMACROSS SUNDANCE FROMCINEMAS SUNDANCE CINEMAS Beautifully presented DM AS AC RO SS FRO M SUN DAN C E C I N E M AS LOC AT E D AC ROS S F ROM S U NCERTIFIED DA NLO C ECCATE IN EMEMBER Moroccan cuisine is on LOCoffer ATE D in AC ROS S FROM S U NDANC E CINEMAS a very quiet dining environment 558 SNS MIDVALE LO F RO M S U NBLVD DAN C E C I N E M AS at MARRAKESH RESTAURANT . C AT E D ACRO MADISON, WI Start with Moroccan mint tea, 608.441.0202 CAFEPORTAALBA.COM ceremoniously poured into a glass from a traditional ornate LOCATED ACROSS FROM metal pot, and don’t skip the SUNDANCE CINEMAS classic Moroccan vegetarian soup called harira. Take your time over kebabs, couscous dishes or tagines (Moroccan stew) cooked and served in BOWL OF HEAVEN • CAFÉ HOLLANDER • CAFÉ PORTA ALBA • DUMPLING HAUS traditional earthenware pots. >D=EAF? K KL=9C@GMK= • GREAT DANE PUB & BREWING CO. H9KIM9D K ;9FLAF9 • SUSHI MURAMOTO Nothing fancy or upscale about the décor, and yet this • is a restaurant that invites • • • • • • you to savor wonderful flavors •• CAFÉ PORTA ALBA • DUMPLING BOWL OF HEAVEN • CAFÉ HOLLANDER at a leisurely pace. They do • Family-crafted wine • play Moroccan music, but • GREAT DANE PUB & BREWING CO. & spirits in a historic >D=EAF? K KL=9C@GMK= • •• • so softly it never intrudes. setting overlooking • • H9KIM9D K ;9FLAF9 SUSHI MURAMOTO the Wisconsin River. Our most recent discovery • in quiet dining would more Garden G Ga rd den en G Gate Gin • properly be characterized as a & Dancehall Absinthe Abs bs Blanche wine bar, but BAROLO justifies •

BOWL OF HEAVEN • CAFÉ HO BOWLHOLLANDER OF HEAVEN CAFÉ HOLLANDER BOWL OF HEAVEN CAFÉ CAFÉ PORTA BOWL ALBA OF HEAVEN DUMPLING CAFÉ HAUS HO BOWL OF HEAVEN CAFÉ HOLLANDER CAFÉ PORTA ALBA DUMPLING HAUS >D=EAF? K KL=9C@G HAUS BOWL O CAFÉ PORTA ALBA DUMPLING HAUS& BREWING >D=EAF? K KL=9C@GMK= >D=EAF? K KL=9C@G DANEPUB PUB >D=EAF? K KL=9C@GMK= GREAT GREAT DANE & BREWING CO.CO. H9KIM9D K • BOWL OF HEAVEN CAFÉFLEMING’S HOLLANDERSTEAKHOUSE CAFÉ PORTA ALBABOWL DUMPLING OF HAUS CAFÉ CAFÉ • H9KIM9D K ;9FLAF9 H9KIM9D K SUSHI MURAMOTO BOWL OF HEAVEN HEAVEN CAFÉPOHH H9KIM9D K ;9FLAF9 SUSHI MURAMOTO >D=EAF? K KL=9C@GMK= GREAT DANE PUB & BREWING CO. >D=EAF? K KL=9C@ FL >D=EAF? K KL=9C@ GREAT DANE PUB & BREWING CO. •

H9KIM9D K ;9FLAF9 SUSHI MURAMOTO

its place on our list with a short menu of very lovely food to enjoy along with your glass of wine. The atmosphere is intimate with mid-century charm in the high, upholstered booth backs and a long bar. The offerings were more generous than small plates, but not quite enough for a full meal. The house was full on a recent Friday night, mostly couples, their heads close together in earnest conversation, and still it felt almost hushed. We talked and talked. And sometimes we stopped to hear ourselves think. h

H9KIM9D H9KIM9D GREAT

PASQUAL’S CANTINA SUSHI MURAMOTO

Winery Tours & tastings Spirits Tastings

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ISTHMUS DINING 2016

EDO Garden Japanese Restaurant

Authentic Japanese Menu & Vegetarian Cuisine Hibachi grill Hand rolled sushi & sashimi bar Private tea rooms Wedding and rehearsal dinners Private and holiday parties

6309 Monona Dr., Monona, WI 608-226-9828 edogardenmonona.com Mon-Thurs 11am-10pm, Fri-Sat 11am-11pm, Sun Noon-10pm

Vintage Brewing Co. EST 2010

• Elevated Americana Cuisine • Over 100 Craft Beers Available • Highly acclaimed housemade brews from Vintage Brewing Co.

Open 7 Days a Week 11am to Close Lunch & Dinner Served 11am to 10 pm

674 S. Whitney Way Madison, WI vintagebrewingco.com

ISTHMUS DINING 2016

COME DINE

WITH US.

Hy-Vee Market Grille® is a full-service restaurant with friendly wait staff and a great menu featuring over 160 items. And you won’t want to miss our exceptional Sunday Brunch. Plus, join us every Wednesday for half-price bottles of select wine and half-price sushi. FITCHBURG 2920 Fitchrona Road | (608) 273-5131 MADISON EAST 3801 East Washington Avenue | (608) 227-4540 MADISON WEST 675 South Whitney Way | (608) 277-6742 hy-veemarketgrille.com

Andrew Hutchinson and Kevin Brungraber tend the ovens at Madison Sourdough.

NOT BY BREAD ALONE

LOVELY LOAVES AND MORE BY ADAM POWELL PHOTOGR APHY BY PAULIUS MUSTEIKIS

“The smell of good bread baking, like the sound of lightly flowing water, is indescribable in its evocation of innocence and delight.”— M.F.K. Fisher, The Art of Eating

MAKING BREAD

is a bit like magic. Transforming the raw ingredients into the heavenly final package is rightfully seen as a kind of alchemy. Baking is chemistry, nostalgia, wonder and love all wrapped up together in a tasty package. The smell of a crisp baguette can send you across the Atlantic to the marketplaces of Paris, and the aroma of freshly baked

sourdough can take you straight out to the windswept Pacific Ocean, where San Francisco has handed down living yeasts for generations. Madison has a thriving community of bakers too, working the ancient art to produce food that still feels like a miracle on a Sunday morning when it comes hot and fresh from the oven, an affirmation of life itself.

MADISON SOURDOUGH Andrew Hutchison is the head baker and co-owner at Madison Sourdough. He worked apprenticeships in France and studied with a third-generation baker in Paris. He then returned to Madison and purchased the business. The company has evolved greatly since, moving from Mineral Point Road to the much trendier Willy Street, opening a patisserie (a bakery for pastries and sweets) and milling its own flour from Wisconsin-grown grains. A loaf of bread here takes 36 hours to make, from creating the dough to the final bath of heat in the oven. These are naturally leavened breads made from rye, corn and wheat. Madison Sourdough’s viennoiserie, leavened pastry, uses Wisconsin eggs and milk from Sassy Cow Creamery. The item you must try here is the miche. “I am a bread guy,” says ISTHMUS DINING 2016

Hutchison. “If I could bake just one thing for the rest of my life, it would be the miche.” A rustic sourdough, the miche is “at once an Old World bread and a new one,” says Hutchison. For him, miche comes from a tradition of artisan baking that “uses only natural leavening, local grain and freshmilled flour to craft a bread with lots of character.”

BATCH BAKEHOUSE Baguettes and artisanal loaves are baked fresh daily at Batch, natch. Baguettes of regular, demi size and epi de blé (cut to look like a sheaf of wheat) are the bedrock here. But go deeper: Look for challah, cheese ficelle, ciabatta, caraway rye (baked with only whole caraway seeds, and on Sundays only) and focaccia — painted with olive oil and rosemary and dusted with salt. Or try fougasse, a sort of flatbread, stacked with tantalizingly tangy combinations like ovendried tomatoes with herbs or olives with Parmesan. To create the time-honored deviltry known as sourdough, pros use a starter base (also known as the “head” or the “chief”) as the

foundation for each batch. The head adds the microorganisms that chemically interact with other elements of bread to add that distinctive sourness; the starter is constantly “refreshed” in an exacting process that allows the same batch of lactobacillus-based goo to be used for hundreds of years. At Batch, sourdough is made with a 100% whole-wheat starter that is mixed into a levain of rye and white flour, producing a strong and chewy crust. Very special: The honey wheat loaf is a fifty-fifty wheat and white boule. Picture a lightly smashed ball with chewy, crumby goodness and a nice, soft crust. Batch is also big on holiday treats: Irish soda bread, hot cross buns, king cakes and Rosh Hashanah challah.

CLASEN’S EUROPEAN BAKERY The story of Clasen’s stretches back to 1959, when brothers Rolf and Ernst Clasen arrived in America from Cologne, Germany, to open a bakery. Today the breads are still made from scratch every day, in the manner of the Old World, without preservatives. If you can count to five, you can count the ingredients in most of the loaves of bread.

While distribution extends to Milwaukee and parts of Illinois, half of Clasen’s products are sold from the Middleton bakery store. Over its 57 years, Clasen’s has developed recipes for cookies, cakes, quiches, rolls, pastries and a constantly changing array of seasonal baked products. Second-generation owner Michelle Clasen cites her favorites as the kalamata olive artisan bread, ham and cheese croissants and Alpine Six-Grain bread. “That is exactly how we like to eat,” she says. “It’s how I cook at home.”

GREENBUSH BAKERY “Kosher means quality!” is the slogan at this near-west, near-campus bakery. In 1998, two years after opening, Greenbush worked with the Jewish community to obtain an official kosher certification, unique in Madison. Doughnuts, especially good here, are a welcome treat for all the students in the neighborhood (go early on football Saturdays, or go home empty-handed). Greenbush provides an encyclopedia of doughnut styles, but don’t leave without one of its deep-fried cake batter confections, glazed with chocolate, dusted with confectioner’s sugar or topped

Nightly Fish, Steak, and Pasta Specials Friday Fish Fry Lake Perch or Cod, Baked or Fried, includes Parmesan Potato Casserole, Coleslaw and Soup or Salad.

Saturday Night Prime Rib 8 oz, 12 oz, or 16 oz. Includes Potato, Vegetable, Popover and Soup or Salad.

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ISTHMUS DINING 2016

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Stacy Amble of Bloom Bake Shop starts from scratch.

with nuts. Fruit compote- or custard-filled options are just as good. The sour cream old fashioneds, cinnamon rolls, doughnut holes and fried pies (filled with cherry, blueberry or caramel apple) all have their partisans.

BLOOM BAKE SHOP Annemarie Maitri is the owner of this small business in downtown Middleton. Maitri works with nearby farmers to obtain most of the shop’s ingredients for cinnamon rolls, doughnuts, cupcakes, bars, brownies and cookies. Bloom also emphasizes treats for vegans and those with allergies or gluten intolerance, and Maitri has come up with some amazing versions that are hard to distinguish from the dairy-full, wheat-replete items. Bloom makes a bomb biscuit sandwich: a gluten-free biscuit stacked with vegan “cheddar cheese,” sweet potato, caramelized onions, arugula and a curried vegan cream cheese made from scratch, in-house. The homemade pop tarts and “whoopie pies” are as fun as they sound. Parents looking for an afternoon of kid heaven, take note.

LA BAGUETTE

LA BRIOCHE TRUE FOOD

You’ll hear the staff speaking French among themselves, French television streaming via satellite on mute backed by Edith Piaf on the stereo, and sometimes even see a copy of Le Monde lying around. If that’s not amazing enough, La Baguette moved to Madison in 2008 not from Marseilles or Lyons, but from Minocqua. In an unassuming a strip mall near West Towne, La Baguette spirits visitors away to another continent with its Eiffel Tower motif and chalk-drawn menus. If you are interested in the way the French eat but can’t quite make it across the ocean, La Baguette is the place. The “Parisien” sandwich showcases La Baguette’s delectable fresh baguette, topped with ham, cornichons and Swiss cheese. For a sweet treat, try a tarte au poire (pear), tarte aux fruits (with raspberries and strawberries) or chocolatine (an enormous custard chocolate chip-filled pastry the size of a hoagie). The shop makes its tarts and bakery items every day.

La Brioche first brought Swiss baking to hungry students, faculty and tourists in 1988 when it launched on State Street. Now on University Avenue, La Brioche continues its tradition of baking from scratch with unbleached flours and fresh dairy. This latest incarnation of La Brioche is also a full restaurant with a focus on local and organic ingredients, popular with neighboring Shorewood Hills residents. Morning buns, multi-grain bread and butter swirl cookies are staff favorites, but bear claws, croissants, chocolate chip cookies, scones and tres leches cakes (milk cakes) are all outstanding.

LANE’S BAKERY & COFFEE It’s a large room, filled with bearded men reading newspapers, mothers with infants and students hunched over their homework and a cup of coffee. First opened in 1954 by current owner Chuck Lane’s grandparents, Charles and Flay Lane, Lane’s became a destination over time, known for its kringles and whipped ISTHMUS DINING 2016

NATURE’S BAKERY CO-OP

cream cakes. Today Lane’s bakes many doughnuts, pastries and personalized birthday cakes for the kids. Don’t, however, skip the kringle, the dense, flat, pastry ovals that originally came to us from Scandinavia. Kringles come in almond, apricot, cherry, blueberry, strawberry lemon cheese, with icing, raspberry cheese, and a rainbow of other sweet and semisavory flavors.

Bloom Bake Shop

LE PETIT CROISSANT This small but feisty new addition to Madison’s bakery scene is led by two expatriates from La Brioche: Claudia Soto, baker, and Oscar Estrada, pastry chef. Tucked into the same strip mall as Le Tigre Lounge, Le Petit Croissant has been a smash hit in the neighborhood, attracting crowds not only for its stellar sandwiches but for French-influenced baked goods. Look behind the cashier and you’ll see workers removing steaming trays of pastries, scones, sticky buns and cinnamon rolls from

the ovens and stacking them neatly in display cases. Dear Lord, I love the smell of bakeries in the morning. The croissants here are quite brilliant, buttery and flaky. Pain au chocolat is executed in the Parisian style, with buttery pâte feuilletée dough. Bear claws are enormous, enough for two.

Nature’s Bakery Cooperative, founded in 1970, is a workerowned and -operated co-op specializing in organic wholegrain breads, granola and trail mix. Nature’s is mostly a wholesale outfit (though you can drop in and buy direct) that distributes to co-ops, grocery stores and health food shops in Wisconsin and Minnesota. It uses none of the high-fructose corn syrup, bleaches, chemical additives, pesticides or herbicides commonly seen in industrial bread making. All eight members earn the same for their shared duties, among them baking, clean-up, packaging and delivery — totally communal, taking the best lessons from Madison’s rich counterculture traditions. Perhaps it’s a bit of a hippie cliché, but the crunchy, hearty granola really is good. The granola and trail mix can be shipped via UPS anywhere in the contiguous U.S., making for a very Madison gift. h

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ISTHMUS DINING 2016

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ISTHMUS DINING 2016

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Gates & Broviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cod cakes are a nod to the East Coast.

TEAM BRUNCH ELEVEN NEW FAVORITES BY K YLE NABILCY PHOTOGR APHY BY PAULIUS MUSTEIKIS

IF THERE’S ONE THING YOU CAN count on, it’s brunch disdain from jaded New York food writers or crabby sous chefs. I feel like brunch must be a miserable experience in some cities, judging from how often it is disparaged in national food coverage. In Madison, brunch is anything but miserable. We’re a city that is 100% on Team Brunch, and there’s no shortage of opportunity to enjoy a meal that’s filling, relaxing, recuperative and enjoyable. I could take up this whole publication with my favorites, but here are 11 of Madison’s most noteworthy brunches.

IT TOOK awhile for UMAMI RAMEN AND

DUMPLING BAR to offer brunch service, nearly three and a half years from its 2011 opening, in fact. The wait has been worth it for a brunch that offers dishes unlike any other in town. Okay, they’re sort of like other brunches. There’s a beefy hash with eggs, of course, but instead of corned beef, this dish incorporates chopped Korean bulgogi. It shines with scallion salsa, with its competing bass and treble notes of sesame oil and green onion. More restaurants need to embrace a handful of chopped scallions. They’re the best. Omurice, more or less a Japanese enchilada/omelet hybrid, is unique to Umami. A thin wrap of egg holds bacon fried rice and greens, and a sweet, ketchupy sauce that’s true to the Western influences on the dish brings it all together as salsa roja would in Mexican cuisine. Creamy Thai iced tea and Vietnamese coffee bring in nutty, soothing flavors from the broader Southeast Asian region, perfect for sipping on the patio in spring.

OLIVER’S PUBLIC HOUSE is a leading light among the businesses moving into a rapidly modernizing Campus Drive area. The menu is comfortable and Midwestern. At brunch, there’s a flavorful smoked trout omelet packed with Wisconsin’s own Rushing Waters trout, and beer waffles lighter and fluffier than you’d think possible from something that tastes almost as densely eggy as French toast. The sides are nearly as big a draw — the grilled pork breakfast sausage, a rich and gooey cinnamon roll. If you’re feeling more like lunch than breakfast, the hot ham sandwich is big enough for leftovers. One thing you will not want to leave unfinished is the glorious Warm Irish Sweater cocktail, a hot mix of whiskey, coffee and stout syrup under a blanket of cool oatmeal cream (it’s like a puréed oatmeal cream cookie — delicious). You may crave it even when the weather isn’t cold; when it is, though, this drink is essential Madison mixology.

GATES & BROVI is a restaurant that just feels right: what it offers, how it’s decorated, where it’s located. I love the painted barn wood around the pass to the kitchen, I love the high gloss on the bar, and let me tell you, I love brunch here. Technically, the restaurant calls it breakfast. But is there sweet? Yes, in the form of excellent lemon ricotta blueberry pancakes, for example. Maple syrup is offered, but does anyone put maple syrup on pancakes that already include lemon curd? And is there savory? Oh, plenty. Cod cakes bear a good seared crust and get

a boost from bacon and a bed of white cheddar grits. The scramblers section of the menu is almost entirely vegetarian, but you won’t be left wanting. The mushroom, spinach and cream cheese version is rich and dense. A cup of coffee and brunch at Gates & Brovi always puts me in a good mood for the rest of the day.

BASSETT STREET BRUNCH CLUB is all robots and kitsch inside, with a tidy, modern wraparound patio outside, which makes it a lively brunch destination whether or not the weather’s accommodating for outdoor dining. The menu is sprawling, with plenty of trendy tweaks on standard diner fare. Lemon ricotta pancakes are officially a thing in the American brunch lexicon, and Bassett Street does them with plenty of blueberries along for the ride. Savory French toast is less common. Here it’s a heaping portion of greens, hollandaise and battered sourdough. Things do shift around on this menu. A fun sausage banh mi has disappeared, but now there are chicken-fried Brussels sprouts that I very much want to eat.

IF YOU WANT

the challah French toast at STALZY’S DELI , it’s available any time the restaurant is open. Same is true for any dish from the breakfast menu. But going there for a weekend brunch is a natural fit. Maybe you’re coming from church, maybe you’re going for a walk, or shopping on Atwood. Stalzy’s is a great neighborhood wander-in restaurant with excellent savory options in addition to

ISTHMUS DINING 2016

Unusual options at Umami include the omurice.

the French toast and densely sweet baked goods. Brunchy specials might include a delicate grilled weisswurst with eggs and toast. The breakfast sandwich is simple, messy and delicious; and don’t judge its fried bologna on reflex. Just go with it.

ON THE OTHER

end of the spectrum, brunch at CENTO feels a little bit glam, considering it’s happening in an austere dining room that’s a natural fit for a preOverture Center dinner or date night. Any presuppositions about a dainty, tea service-style meal are put immediately to rest when the very generous portions arrive. Baked eggs over polenta are enough for leftovers or trading bites with your tablemates. There’s a little spice and a lot of zingy

tomato sauce, with the polenta getting just a little crisped around the edges. Sides like simple breakfast potatoes are sufficiently ample to split with a friend. A halfpound brunch burger has a seared crust like you wouldn’t believe. Definitely worth considering: the Boozy Brunch offer. A pastry, coffee, your choice of brunch entree, and not one but two cocktails, all for $25. It’s a lot of food, but a serious value. Try the bright, acidic Italiana ’87 made with gin and sage, or the novel Lemon Capri, which combines limoncello, chilled espresso and cream in a way that grows on you with each sip.

YOU’D EXPECT

a kitchen headed by Dan Fox, a guy who raises his own hogs, to be particularly proficient with

Cento’s burger for brunch? It’s a great choice.

pork. And there’s plenty of it at HERITAGE TAVERN , with its line of “old-fashioned” ham-studded dishes — sandwich, omelet, even a cinnamon roll. But it’s with seafood that Heritage’s brunch menu really shines. The smoked salmon platter is artfully presented on a cross-section of tree trunk, with adorable little blinis and plenty of tender salmon and pickles. The smoked whitefish and crab cake also features bacon and minimal filler. A lobster scramble offers big chunks of the buttery crustacean mixed into creamy scrambled eggs. The toasted croissant that accompanies the dish could be turned into a mean lobster roll with only a little reconstruction. The doughnuts with chocolateespresso ganache for dipping are

both decadent and a decent price for the three doughnuts-and-theirholes that you get.

SOMETIMES you need a Magic Coffee on a weekend morning. In that case, CAFÉ ESTRELLÓN to the rescue. Pull up a bar stool and treat yourself to Spanish brunch, Tory Miller-style. The sandwiches and crepes change as seasons and ingredients merit, but you’ll probably always find some kind of mortadella sandwich and some kind of jamón crepe. When the menu board lists “butter” as the second ingredient behind mortadella, believe it; every nook and cranny of the crusty baguette on which the sandwich comes is filled with butter. The jamón crepe doesn’t skimp on the fillings either, without being overly pricey.

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Pastries are some of Madison’s best; as demonstrated with the desserts at L’Etoile and the baked goods at Graze, Miller has an eye for what his pastry chefs do well. I fell cataclysmically in love with the manchego and green olivefilled croissant from the first bite, and the pastry cream-filled xuco (aka xuixo) is no slouch, either. And it goes great with Magic Coffee.

THERE ARE A handful of places in Madison where soccer fans congregate, and THE COOPERS TAVERN is near the top of the list. With the EUFA tournament and Summer Olympic Games approaching, what better way to watch a match than over brunch? Coopers’ brunch menu includes most of the lunch menu, with a healthy dose of other morning favorites. The Reuben is a standby with good reason, considering the corned beef is cured in-house and the kraut is given a dunk in Lake Louie Scotch ale. A southern-fried chicken sandwich taps into the current passion for Southern food. Chorizo provides a complementary flavor in that chicken sandwich, and features prominently in a couple other brunch dishes. A melon chutney that accompanies the French toast is an uncommon offering, and those duck fat-fried eggs on the crab cakes Benedict should be on your list.

THE MENU at the WEARY TRAVELER

this is in keeping with its name. If you’ve been busy, or if you’ve been away from Madison for a while, you can always come back to the familiarity of the Weary to get your mojo back. And this is true of its brunch, too. Steak and eggs are a good call here, the steak nicely marinated and no sawing required. The egg version of the Weary’s legendary West of the Andes sandwich shows the essential beauty of the recipe; it works with every primary filling. You can get a lovely Bloody Mary and a side of bacon if you’re looking to chase away a hangover, or some quality French toast. Whether you’re at a cozy table or, even better, sitting at the bar, brunch at the Weary is a balm.

BISCUITS

and gravy? Just try to keep us apart, world. I have yet to find a better plate of biscuits and gravy than at 4 & 20 BAKERY AND CAFE , tucked away a block behind East High. The menu does change at 4 & 20. The biscuits, though, are always there, whether holding together a breakfast sandwich or under a layer of creamy, peppery gravy and a fried egg. While ordering, you’ll find yourself staring at the pastry case. I dare you to resist a lemon cream pop tart, or a knobby lemon blackberry muffin (I mean, if you didn’t already order the lemon quick bread blueberry French toast). Either way, why not take one home for later? h

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ISTHMUS DINING 2016

drinking is serious business. This food-obsessed city has long had a reputation for punching above its culinary weight, and it has chefs and mixologists with the credentials to prove it. But Madison is also known for having a quirky sense of humor, and its bars and restaurants are no different. Cleverly named dishes and drinks have popped up on menus throughout the city, allowing establishments to show off their creativity and giving customers a laugh. Whether it’s an inside joke among employees or a pun that’s just too good to resist, these morsels of mirth add fun and flavor

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doesn’t stop there. There’s an entire menu section devoted to “balls of fun,” with a chicken and a fried mac ’n’ cheese version. They’re served with creamy ranch dressing, of course. With its reputation for putting simple, rustic ingredients on a pedestal, it’s no wonder that FOREQUARTER has elevated the humble tuber to high-class levels with its HAUTE POTATO, HAUTE POTATO. Sweet potato rum anchors this concoction of cranberry, maple, becherovka (a Czech digestive) and bitters. It’s best enjoyed while noshing on local greens and sustainably raised meats. And it’s even served haute — er, warm. Ever eat a pine tree? Many parts are edible. Same goes for this omelet from the HUBBARD

to the ordering process — a little linguistic spice, if you will. Take the ARTISANAL MALIBU at GIB’S BAR . Why is this funny, you ask? Because it’s simultaneously making fun of people who use the word “artisanal” as well as people who drink Malibu rum, Gib’s staff says. This cocktail is, of course, much classier, featuring the finest coconut-washed rum, fresh lime and gomme syrup. This is exactly the kind of esoteric, cocktail-nerd humor you should expect from the bartenders at Gib’s. Oh, and it actually tastes like Malibu. As a person who discovered the BLUE VELVET LOUNGE (and its $5 martini drink special on Tuesdays) as a UW-Madison student, I can vouch that the Blue Velvet’s CLUSTER #$%& lives up to its name. It was there that I came to appreciate the Christopher Hitchens quote: “Martinis are like breasts — one is not enough, three is too many.” This doesn’t really apply to the Cluster#$%&, though, since it’s literally a gallon of booze and meant to be shared. As one astute Foursquare user noted: “Hella blackout!” Then there’s the CLUB TAVERN ’s MANLEY MANN BALLS . Get your mind out of the gutter. These delicious, deep-fried spheres, made from tater tots, cheese and bacon, are actually named after Club Tavern’s daytime manager Darcee Manley. But the fun

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AVENUE DINER , named for EUELL GIBBONS , the famous naturalist and food forager of the 1970s. While perhaps a true Euell Gibbons recipe would include cattails, lambsquarters or, at the very least, wild asparagus, this dish features mainstream ingredients like mushrooms, red onions, green peppers and tomatoes. Safe to say it’s better than Grape-Nuts. In some households, dropping an F-BOMB will get you a mouthful of soap. Not so at BANZO, where uttering the phrase will get you two falafel balls paired with grilled chicken or beef miniburgers. You can F-up your order with a variety of preparations: pita sandwich, salad, platter or hummus plate. Add pickles, hot sauce and tahini, and you’ll be saying: “F-yes.”

At the TIP TOP TAVERN , the CHICKEN BURLESQUE is a little more subtle play on words. They’re chicken strips — get it? And just as a burlesque dancer is a classed-up version of a stripper, the Tip Top Tavern is an elevated dive bar with great food and drink. For this “tip topa,” housebattered chicken breast is stripped and served with barbecue or buffalo sauce. And you don’t even have to throw dollar bills at it. Over at Monty’s BLUE PLATE DINER , located in the heart of the near east side, there is likely a heathen or vegan or two dining at any given time at the restaurant. But employees say the name of the Heathen Vegan Shoplifter’s Delight sandwich comes from its relatively expensive ingredients: portobello mushrooms, tempeh and avocado. Add provolone if you want to be really bad.

God bless Mariah Carey. The Elusive Chanteuse is a diva of the highest order. Same with MERCHANT ’s MARIAH CURRY cocktail, which blends an unusual mix of ingredients such as gin, housemade pomegranate-curry syrup, lemon juice and heavy cream. It’s so good you might have an emotional breakdown. Stoners and sandwiches have been best friends forever. And frankly, it’s surprising that it took until 2013 to bring a marijuana-themed restaurant to Madison.

When the munchies kick in, head to Cheba Hut and reach for the CHRONIC — roast beef, barbecue sauce, bell peppers, mushrooms and cheddar. It comes in three sizes: nug, pinner or blunt. Stop. It’s hamachi time. The delightful MC HAMA maki roll at TAVERNAKAYA features yellowtail, cucumber, scallions, jalapeño and a fun hip-hop reference. As MC Hammer himself says: “You can’t touch this.” Luckily, chopsticks are available. Parachute pants not included. h

ISTHMUS DINING 2016

12 MONTHS OF MEALS

The spicy “V”roll with caviar at Takara 88.

PAULIUS MUSTEIKIS

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order? Which entrees are mostly likely to bring you to your knees? What new bistro will best enhance your Instagram? These are the questions we answer in this recap of where Isthmus reviewers have been eating and drinking since the publication of our last “Dining” special section. With an ever-growing number of restaurants focusing on fresh, seasonal ingredients, not all mentioned dishes may be available at all times. Reviews are by André Darlington, Linda Falkenstein, Amelia Cook Fontella, Allison Geyer, Kyle Nabilcy, Kate E. Newton, Adam Powell, Candice Wagener and Rosemary Zurlo-Cuva. 1847 AT THE STAMM HOUSE

A-OK SUNSHINE & SPIRITS

A total facelift highlights the stunning beauty of the property. The interior is back to raw stone and wood beams. The small bar on the lower level remains, and there’s another large bar upstairs in the airy main dining room featuring a well-composed list of craft cocktails. Fresh and seasonal produce dominates — although don’t overlook a rotating daily special drawn from comfort foods like chicken and dumplings and beef stroganoff. The Friday fish fry is Lake Superior whitefish or trout. (A.D.)

A bright blue and yellow geometric floor, gleaming subway tiles and blond wood accents give A-OK a postmodern cafeteria feel. The coffee shop/hipster diner/beer and cocktail bar serves Kin-Kin coffee and espresso. The beans are small-batch roasted and single origin, and the drinks are meticulously prepared. The kitchen serves a few classic diner breakfasts and a hefty burger. (A.G.)

5TH ELEMENT COFFEE With its high ceilings and shiny reclaimed bowling-lane bar, this new coffee purist’s shop feels airy and spacious. The menu is streamlined — there’s no food, other than pastries brought in from Batch Bakehouse — with espresso and manually brewed coffee its focus. Even more narrowly focused are the beans, all single-origin and roasted by either Four Monkeys Coffee, a roaster based in El Salvador, or Yes Coffee Roasters of Monroe, Wis. And 2011 World Barista Championship winner Alejandro Mendez is at the helm. (A.C.F.)

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AVENUE CLUB AND BUBBLE UP BAR This summer, a major overhaul took place at the Avenue. The new Avenue Club and Bubble Up Bar showcases specialty mixed drinks, champagne and sparkling wines — “Bubble & Bitters” matches sparkling rosé with a cherry bark vanilla-soaked sugar cube, for instance. Brunch is packed, and on Friday nights the dining room is furiously busy. The beer-battered cod yields easily beneath a crunchy exterior. (A.P.)

BAROLO Raise a glass to the rewards of Barolo, the wine bar Madison deserves. Service is uniformly warm and knowledgeable, and servers offer samples of wines before you buy. Wines are served by the glass, priced from $6 to $10, and also by the bottle. Barolo also offers smartly designed plates for pairing. Try a rustic flatbread; the selection changes daily. (A.P.)

Left: Schweinhaxen, beer-braised pork shank with sweet-savory mashed apples and potatoes, from Freiburg Gastropub. Above: Tacos banderas with arugula, strawberries and chevre crème from Pasqual’s Cantina. Right: Chive cake from Nani. Below: The Bubble Burger from the Avenue Club.

PAULIUS MUSTEIKIS PHOTOS ISTHMUS DINING 2016

THE BOATHOUSE AT THE EDGEWATER For a town full of lakes, Madison lacks lakeside dining. Enter the Boathouse, the new Edgewater Hotel’s casual dining spot — boat right up to the pier. The mix of Madisonians and hotel visitors, landlubbers and seafarers lends the Boathouse a unique joie de vivre. Snack on Old Bay fries and a crab cake and a Wisconsin craft beer. (L.F.)

CAFE HOLLANDER This Belgian-inspired beer bar is part of a small chain of Milwaukee gastropubs that pay homage to the Benelux countries. Of the 38 beers on tap, some are true Belgians, some American; four are house beers. From the food menu, best bets are over-the-top burger concoctions and thoughtful salads. (L.F.)

COW & QUINCE This open-kitchen farm-to-table market/restaurant occupies a cheery, sunny space in New Glarus. The menu features breakfast and lunch, thoughtfully made and elegantly presented. There is a thrilling lack of pretense. Try the breakfast sammie with Jordandal farm bacon or the biscuits and gravy with Lucky Dog farm pork gravy. A prix fixe dinner happens once a month. (A.D.)

CURRY IN THE BOX University Avenue is a second location for the Fitchburg fast-casual restaurant. Dishes are Thai-inflected, but the menu adopts flavors from India and even Japan. It’s hard to enthuse enough about the panang chicken curry. Solid lunch specials, too, with plenty of bang for $8. (A.P.)

DAISY CAFE & CUPCAKERY Though thought of as more of a morning hangout, Daisy is a chill spot for a casual early dinner. It’s the kind of place to go on a night you just don’t feel like cooking but still want something that seems like it came out of your own kitchen. Veggie dishes like the roasted vegetable enchiladas or the cornucopia soup — more of a stew, really —are hearty and earthy, like something your hippie aunt would make. (A.C.F.)

EL SABOR DE PUEBLA Tucked into a converted house on Williamson Street, it’s homey and happy, with bold colors set against charming knotty pine walls. Reyna Gonzalez, well known for her tamales, is the proprietor and cook. Her brother Juan is a farmer (he’s behind Los Jalapeños CSA), and the restaurant sources directly from him in summer and fall. The menu is familiar Mexican fare — tacos, tortas, enchiladas — with a few surprises, like the tlacoyos. (A.D.)

ESTRELLÓN James Beard Award-winning chef Tory Miller’s latest has a Spanish vibe. There’s so much you should order: the breathtaking pan con tomate, a simple tomato puree with olive oil and salt atop a toasted baguette; the grilled octopus, hefty tentacles presented simply but at their tender best; a pintxo of boquerones (anchovy) presented as a Caesar salad homage. (K.N.)

Top to bottom: Paint Bar PAULIUS MUSTEIKIS, Kung Fu Tea PHILIP ASHBY, World of Beer RYAN WISNIEWSKI, Estrellón PAULIUS MUSTEIKIS, The Boathouse at the Edgewater , Kangchen LAURA ZASTROW, A-OK Sunshine & Spirits CODY BOND 28

ISTHMUS DINING 2016

FAST BIRYANI Hyderabadi cuisine is the specialty, with haleem (a stew of chicken or mutton, cracked wheat, lentils, ginger and rocket-hot chilis), a novel entree for Madison. A stroke of brilliance comes with the flatbread wraps: A scoop of curry is rolled up in naan (or paratha) with lettuce and cheese. The Chicken 65 and Beef Dumke Kabab are perfect for satisfying an immediate Indian craving. (K.N.)

FORAGE KITCHEN Here, build-your-own salads and rice or quinoa bowls have transformed the fast-food world of lower State Street. The “Power Bowl” of brown rice, lentils, roasted sweet potatoes, spicy slaw, guacamole, jerk chicken and lush green goddess dressing is the ultimate healthy comfort dish. (L.F.)

FREIBURG GASTROPUB This sleeker, modern version of a German restaurant has a friendly neighborhood atmosphere, the best imported beers and well-prepared, farm-fresh food. This menu full of pork, fresh salads and a number of vegetarian options is in line with other recent additions to the restaurant scene. The jäger burger could be listed among the best in the city, and the schnitzels and schweinebacken are excellent. (R.Z.C.)

FRESHII This franchise restaurant combines a youthful, Apple store-like aesthetic with fresh food (mostly vegetables) to go, in salads, bowls, soups or wraps; plus, fresh-squeezed juices. The Thai lemongrass burrito (quinoa, cabbage, carrots, cilantro, edamame, spicy lemongrass sauce) works well as a green wrap and may be one of the best things on the menu. (A.D.)

GIB’S BAR This Victorian house redone as a multi-level bar has a relaxed but elegant east-side vibe. The spaces manage to be both intimate and airy. There’s well-curated wine and beer, but this is really a cocktail bar, with ever-changing and surprising offerings. Don’t overlook the sea urchin ice cream from the snack menu. (A.D.)

GOOSEBERRY ON THE SQUARE The premier by-weight salad bar on the Capitol Square provides plenty of choices beyond the expected shredded carrots, from fresh fruit to fresh mozzarella bathed in basil olive oil. Breakfasts and lunch sandwiches are served in a new, clean, modernist interior, the better to match Bruce Graham’s 1974 classic modernist glass-box bank building. (L.F.)

GRAFT Graft is a very pretty, capable restaurant that swings for the fences. It’s a menu with broad appeal: entirely satisfying rillettes of diced smoked trout, harissa-rubbed chicken thigh atop Israeli couscous, flank steak with coffee butter. Massive wine list. (K.N.)

GREEN LIFE CAFE This juice bar, creperie and cafe fuses California’s laid-back dining style with a more Midwestern take on healthy food. Opt for crepe specials and a roster of salads in this cheery orange dining room decorated with art and plants. (K.E.N.)

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HAMILTON’S ON THE SQUARE The mood is always friendly in this chummy, intimate dining room. Dishes tend to be rich. Lamb is very good, as is the duck confit sandwich. Later at night a snack menu kicks in to join the solid cocktail list. As the music gets louder, it’s a more raucous hangout. (K.N.)

HOPCAT The 130 taps are a big draw, but the bar also nails its pub burger (add “bar cheese,” Michigan’s answer to pimento cheese, melty and gooey from the first bite) as well as the Angry Bird, a breaded Buffalo chicken sandwich. The pork schnitzel is a surprisingly juicy slice of pork fried with a crisp crust, under a smothering of gravy and fried egg salad. (K.N.)

JULEP Finally, Madison fully embraces new Southern food. With its smoked ham hock terrine, buttermilk biscuits, Nashville salad, crumb-topped mac and cheese, shrimp and grits and a magnificent perlou (something like a hybrid between jambalaya and paella), Julep is doing right by the South. (K.N.)

KANGCHEN Strip-mall Indian spot with Indo-Chinese fusion cuisine a specialty. Think rice and noodle dishes flavored with traditional Indian spices like cumin, coriander and turmeric doused in spicy Szechuan or Manchurian sauces. Or stick with a solid chicken tikka masala. (A.G.)

KUNG FU TEA Bubble tea spot on State Street, but jasmine, Earl Grey, oolong, white gourd and longan red date tea are also on the menu. Drinks come as “classic” (no milk), with milk, or add a fruit flavor for a drink that Kung Fu calls “punch.” (L.F.)

LA ROSITA Real Mexican food, akin to the glorious tacos, gorditas and tortas made in markets all over Mexico. La Rosita relies upon high-quality, well-prepared and perfectly seasoned meats. The chorizo is a wonderful surprise. Forget that greasy red stuff; La Rosita’s homemade version is dry and sweet, in large crumbles with crispy edges. Beef-lovers will appreciate the cecina, a dried beef specialty that can be hard to find. (A.C. F.)

LE PETIT CROISSANT If Le Petit Croissant made nothing but baked goods, it would still be a godsend to this no man’s land next to the Beltline/Verona Road interchange. Cinnamon rolls are firm and plump and glazed with heavy cream and confectioner’s sugar. Crepes are served in two varieties: sweet (Nutella) and savory (ricotta cheese). Sandwiches, too. (A.P.)

Top to bottom: Le Petit Croissant , Green Life Cafe , Julep , Barolo , Hamilton’s On The Square , Naf Naf , PAULIUS MUSTEIKIS, Kung Fu Tea PHILIP ASHBY, Tavernakaya , CHRIS HYNES, Julep , CHRIS KRONSER 30

ISTHMUS DINING 2016

Tavernakaya

CAROLYN FATH

MADISON ORIENTAL MARKET DELI

NAF NAF

The deli’s in the rear of the market, where beef larp, pungent and rich, and green papaya salads are both made to order. Round out the meal with an order of purple sticky rice. Grab some of the crisp Hmong stuffed chicken wings to eat while you wait. (L.F.)

Build-your-own Mediterranean pita sandwiches and rice plates from this micro-chain out of Chicago. Excellent baba ganoush, hummus and crisp falafel; don’t pass up the fiery s’khug sauce. (L.F.)

MADISTAN Gyros, burgers and fried chicken are just a front for great Pakistani food. Look for the several Pakistani entrees scribbled on a whiteboard. There you’ll find dishes like chicken biryani, chicken achar and aloo chole. The beef kabab and chicken tikka rolls, with their sour-spicy yogurt sauce, are the apex of street food. (L.F.)

Dim sum is served here daily. The menu/placemat arrives with a pen. Write a quantity next to your selections, as when ordering sushi, and the menus are whisked away to be replaced with real versions of the small dishes. This is great fun for kids and adults. Dumplings, pan-fried green chive cakes and deep-fried sesame balls are all good picks to start with. (A.P.)

MEZZE

NORSKE NOOK

What a thrill to have Mezze, where couples take advantage of the nooks and crannies to get close. The feel is charming, subdued and wildly dissimilar from anything nearby. The sense that Mezze is an oasis is furthered by the small, convivial bar. Fresh herbs on the counter are destined for cocktails, there’s a good wine list, and top-notch bottles of liquor line the back shelves. The small plates menu skews Lebanese; head for the pizzas and the za’atar fries. (A.D.)

Breakfast, lunch and dinner pale in comparison to the roster of pies at this DeForest branch of the Osseo, Wis., legend. From Old Fashioned Butterscotch Pudding to Pecan Stout to fresh raspberry, the quality of the pies is unimpeachable. (K.N.)

NANI

PAINT BAR Flatbread pizzas and paninis are perfect fuel while you work on painting your masterpiece on a canvas you buy onsite. Wine, beer and wine-based cocktails will augment your creativity. (A.C.F.)

ISTHMUS DINING 2016

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e greet you with a friendly environment designed to provide you with a happy experience while enjoying amazingly delicious, authentic Italian appetizers, pastas & more!

305 State Street 608-294-1000 Sun.-Thurs. 11am-8:30pm Fri. & Sat. 11am-9:30pm

If we are busy late, we stay open longer!

119 King St 608.229.0900 www.madisonsdowntown.com

SAT & SUN BRUNCH 10 AM - 2PM

ark easy downtown

Buen Provecho!

PASQUAL’S CANTINA

TAIGU

EAST WASHINGTON AVENUE Urban loft meets the Southwest. Pasqual’s works well for a cheap date night as well as a meal with the family. The new Cantina, while preserving the old favorites, has created new small-plate dishes designed to please the happy-hour crowd. Called “Street Food” on the menu, the five singlyserved tacos and Oaxacan shrimp mini-tostadas offer new and welcome flavors. (R.Z.C.)

Shanxi cuisine is the specialty here, with housemade cat’s ear and knife-cut noodles the heart of the restaurant. Look to the traditional Chinese menu for dishes like spicy pork belly with dried tofu and pickled Chinese cabbage with beef. Even the simple scallion knife-cut noodles are a standout. (C.W.)

PORTAGE PI Grab-and-go nook inside the Graduate Hotel lobby specializes in hand pies, sweet and savory, made in-house. The beef short rib, with its potent horseradish dipping sauce, is a must-order. (L.F.)

SABOR QUERETANO Great taqueria hidden in a strip mall behind the East Towne McDonald’s. The chicken milaneza is a sleeper hit. Look for lamb birria on the weekend. It offers a full contingent of huaraches, sopas, flautas, gorditas, tacos, tortas, burritos and the like; fillings from a list of steak, chicken, chorizo, pastor, carnitas, tongue and tripe. (L.F.)

The Wisconsin slate cutting board, a fun and functional way to show off your state pride. Handcrafted in the U.S.A!

SALVATORE’S TOMATO PIES EAST JOHNSON STREET This Trenton-style pizzeria pushes the envelope with farm-to-table pizzas and tacos. Inventive daily specials vie with popular regular pies like the fig and bacon and the Forestiere. A maximalist approach is evident in the tacos, which arrive as two fully loaded beasts. (A.D.)

littleluxuriesmadison.com

The neighborhood bar downtown! OPEN

S 5 DAY

SECOND SALEM The drive to Whitewater is worth it for this nanobrewery’s Bone Orchard India Pale Ale. The Greek Nachos are a fun starter, as are the huge soft pretzels. And the porter batter on the fried cod, available every day, actually tastes like porter. (K.N.)

R A YEA

SÍ CAFE Madison’s only coffee stop in a barber shop. Sí brews only espresso and pour-overs made from Yes Coffee Roasters beans, which are carefully sourced from small farms. (A.G.)

SOHO GOURMET

THE B

EST S

S IN ECIAL

TOWN

Happy Hour, Daily Lunch & Drink Specials TUESDAYS $1.75 RAILS FREE POOL Mon & Thur 9pm-Close

Serving Food Daily until 1:30am!

119 W. Main St. Madison 608-256-2263 www.thenewparadiselounge.com

The brick-and-mortar offshoot of the SoHo food cart adapts traditional Asian flavors and preparations for a Midwestern palate. Call it Wisco-fusion. The dumplings are great, but the real focus is on the rice plates, which come with a choice of meats. Look for congee — a thick rice soup with chicken, mushrooms and ginger — on the weekend. (A.G.)

TAKARA 88 Innovative, whimsical sushi, sashimi and nigiri in this beautiful subdued room make the Middleton version of the local Takara chain a more upscale experience. Besides the fresh sushi, the lunch udon special is a good buy. (A.P.)

TAVERNAKAYA At this new Japanese gastropub on the Square, skewers and small plates point to the kitchen’s greatest skills. And, at long last in Madison, we have a restaurant serving the savory pancake okonomiyaki. The ponzu steak frites and the Taiwanese three cup chicken also prove the kitchen can execute. (K.N.)

WAYPOINT PUBLIC HOUSE A fine place to sit on the Yahara with a burger and a beer and watch the boats come in. Knoche’s beef anchors the burgers, and an impressive tap list joins a sandwich- and salad-centric menu. There’s also a substantial brunch. (K.N.)

WIENER SHOP Eleven gussied-up versions of hot dogs, plus outrageous, allusive, extravagantly topped weekly specials. Vegan option is a tempeh dog made locally by Bandung restaurant. (L.F.)

WILLY TY’S Comfortable pub food in suburban Sun Prairie. Cheese-stuffed Gooey Louey is the house burger, but the “griddled cheeses” may be the highlight of the menu; they all come with a side of tomato bisque for dunking. Respectable beer list, too. (K.N.)

WORLD OF BEER The house specialty at this Middleton establishment is the Chimay Burger, with mushrooms, caramelized onions and Chimay Grand Classique, a cheese made by Belgian brewer Chimay. In addition to taps, there are beer infusions (peanut butter porter, anyone?) and beer cocktails ranging from boozy to fruity to sour. (K.N.) h

TNT’S COFFEE & CAFE Coffee house with Belgian waffles, breakfast sandwiches and burritos. For lunch, chicken salad on a fluffy croissant is a knockout punch. Coffee beans are from Colectivo. (A.P.) ISTHMUS DINING 2016

OUT OF SIGHT

OR, “I DIDN’T KNOW THERE WAS A RESTAURANT HERE!” BY LINDA FALKENSTEIN PHOTOGR APHY BY PAULIUS MUSTEIKIS

Finding the Edgewater’s lake-level Boathouse is half the fun. 34

ISTHMUS DINING 2016

SMITTY’S STUDY PUB Brews with a View

Open Daily 4:30 – 11:00 pm

HEADING WEST, Wisconsin Avenue ascends before reaching the Edgewater Hotel, which holds a commanding perch high above Lake Mendota. Then the intrepid traveler needs to go by foot, down, down, down many flights of stairs — past the spa, past guest room levels, all the way to the lake. From street level, you’d never guess there was a restaurant nestled below. The Boathouse Bar is far easier to discern when approaching it on a boat from the lake than it is from the State Capitol ( just a 10-minute walk away) or even from neighboring Langdon Street. The adage “out of sight, out of mind” is often too true in the restaurant business, where a location just a block away from a main thoroughfare can spell doom. Yet some dining spots not only manage to make a go of their out-of-the-way locations but thrive on them, whether due to lower rents or a certain mystique conveyed when people can find them at all. Let’s map out a few, shall we?

RETURNING TO The Boathouse, the journey down those steps is part of a psychological break with downtown Madison that takes the diner miles away without having traveled anywhere at all. The nautical-themed bar and dining room feels so tucked away that you may be as surprised to run into a co-worker or neighbor there as you would be to encounter them in Cancun or Puerto Vallarta. Pretend you’re in those places by ordering the fish tacos, blackened cod with a pineapple chipotle salsa, or head to the East Coast with a Maryland crab cake, or further up the coast with the New England clam chowder, studded with tender clams. Note: The Boathouse is currently closed, but will reopen in time for warm-weather lakeside dining and scenery-gazing.

MUCH HARDER to find, but also hidden in the midst of city activity on the UW-Madison campus, is the Badger Alley Bistro. Never heard of it? Not surprising. This campus food stop caters to athletes (but is open to all) and is found by the dedicated searcher in the far recesses underneath Camp Randall Stadium. Even a student checking IDs at the Camp Randall Sports Center (aka “The Shell”) next door hadn’t heard of it. Aim for a gap between the Shell and the stadium (near gate two) and head back, back, back until you see a set of red double doors on your left. Open them and find a breakfast, lunch and dinner outlet where every dish is designed to be healthy and nutritious. Each has its calories, protein and fat broken out right on the

ISTHMUS DINING 2016

The urban-industrial vibe suits Karben4’s taphouse on the Truax side of the airport.

menu board. And, it’s all very inexpensive. For breakfast, try steel-cut oatmeal with almonds, Craisins and brown sugar ( just $2) or a Southwestern scrambled egg, black bean and salsa power bowl ($3). Burritos, sandwiches, melts and wraps — nothing costs more than $4.50 or has more than 595 calories. That’s the Bucky sandwich, by the way, a sub by any other name but served on ciabatta bread. Still, the most rewarding part of the Badger Alley Bistro experience may be in finding the place. And that is quite exhilarating.

BREWERIES ARE not always on the beaten path, but when there’s a tap room involved (and one that has a tempting menu at that), they’re often in a more populated area than is Karben4. Located in a business park on the Truax side of the airport just off Stoughton Road, Karben4’s

and nosh on an apple bacon flatbread pizza, topped with fresh spinach. Sunday brunch at the brewery can feel like an even more well-kept secret. Try the gooey Monte Cristo sandwich with fried egg.

NOT THAT THIS

closest neighbors are a medical lab and a mattress warehouse. The taproom fits right in to that scene, though, with poured concrete floors and plenty of brewing activity going on. But the mood is brightened with board games and brightly colored original art on the walls. It all feels like a gender-neutral mancave getaway with very fresh beer. Try a flight of different available brews (build your own from the six or seven taps)

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ISTHMUS DINING 2016

is a contest, but perhaps the spot you would least imagine for a restaurant is in another business park across town, this time behind the AMC Fitchburg Cinemas, near the massive Sub-Zero plant and adjoining Hybrid Athletic Club. This is the home of Fit Fresh Cuisine, a gleaming, lab-white open kitchen temple to healthy eating that offers weekly meal plans designed to boost physical performance. In addition to serving as a meal pick-up point, the Commerce Park Drive location is also home to a small cafe where you can order smoothies, acai bowls, scrambles, sandwiches, salads, flatbreads and sandwiches to eat in or to go.

Order Lunch Online!

MARIGOLDKITCHEN . COM

WEEKDAYS

BREAKFAST

LUNCH

SATURDAY AND SUNDAY

MARKET

BRUNCH 118 S O U T H P I N C K N E Y S T R E E T • M A D I S O N , W I S C O N S I N

DINNER & THE CITY Located in downtown Madison, CIRC serves contemporary American cuisine with global influences for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The menu, which changes seasonally and is crafted with local and organic ingredients, is inspired by the diverse individuals that define our community and is shaped by hardworking local farmers who embody the spirit of Wisconsin.

1 West Dayton Street • Madison, WI 53703 circmadison.com

ISTHMUS DINING 2016

On the residential edge of Waunakee...barbecue, from Blowin’ Smoke.

The Cowboy Scramble is a delicious bowl of New Century Farm eggs, roasted potatoes, Neesvig’s breakfast sausage and Hook’s two-year cheddar; it’s luxurious without inducing guilt (at 417 calories). The Energizer sandwich is another favorite, with ham set off with a sweet mango chutney, arugula and chevre and mustard providing a little extra zing. The vegetarian Nosh sandwich does a nice job, too, with arugula, pickled beets and chevre, with more crunch coming from carrot and cucumber.

BLOWIN’ SMOKE

Barbecue is located in Waunakee. But not where most of Waunakee’s businesses

cluster, at the heart-and-center intersection of highways 113 and Q. Blowin’ Smoke is actually closer to Madison’s north side, just off 113 on Arboretum Drive and then a quick turn on Montondon Avenue. If you look it up on Google Maps, it seems like it must be a

CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN CUISINE

mistake, plunked down in what looks to be the middle of a suburban neighborhood. You wouldn’t be far off; the small office building/ commercial site where Blowin’ Smoke makes its home also hosts a bank, but there are suburban houses right across the street. That homey feeling extends to the inside of the restaurant, where pitmaster and proprietor Robert Bishop is likely to be on hand. The club house-like dining room is extended by a spacious outdoor patio. There, in summer, you can watch blazing orange and pink prairie sunsets with a beer and Blowin’ Smoke’s famous burnt ends and sweet potato fries. Who needs the beaten path? h

Winners of the

2015 Isthmus Readers Poll

Enjoyed in an upscale, yet casual environment, our classic grill items and seasonal favorites include: • Our hand-cut Wood-Fyred Steaks • Our fresh Seafood selections, Rotisserie Chicken • Private dining and catering options available

Arbor Gate Towers | 2601 W. Beltline Hwy. | 608.273.3973 | www.bonfyregrille.net 38

ISTHMUS DINING 2016

are featured in the Isthmus Restaurant Index on page 40. The poll takes place each June. Watch for it in Isthmus in print and online!

www.centuryhouseinc.com

Fine

dining unexpected design

everything for the modern home or office

3029 & 3420 university ave madison 608.233.4488 ISTHMUS DINING 2016

ISTHMUS

RESTAURANT INDEX 1847 AT THE STAMM HOUSE

6625 CENTURY AVE., 608-203-9430.

Chef Nick Johnson is at the helm of a revamped historic house. Local sourcing. Excellent appetizers; fine trout and grass-fed pub burgers, and Lake Superior whitefish for the Friday fish fry. The not-to-be-missed nightly specials are heavier, homier comfort food dishes. Nice list of craft cocktails. $10-$28. 1847stammhouse.com

43 NORTH

108 KING ST., 608-255-4343.

Contemporary American menu divided into snacks, soup and salad, and a handful of entrees, with a generous array of local cheeses. Monday wine tastings. $10-$32. 43north.biz

Winners of the 2015 Isthmus Readers Poll feature the Mad Fave label

The poll takes place each June. Watch for it in Isthmus in print and online!

2510 UNIVERSITY AVE., 608-604-0552.

All beans are sourced from El Salvador and roasted by Four Monkeys Coffee, a roaster based in El Salvador. $2-$7. 5thelementcoffee.com

A-OK SUNSHINE & SPIRITS

829 E. WASHINGTON AVE., 608-237-1314.

It’s a coffee shop, a bar and a modest diner all at once, with a kicky retro decor and excellent pour-over coffees from Kin-Kin. Grab a booth and order the must-try biscuits and gravy. After 3 pm, the burger and fries is the only entree served. $3-$12. facebook.com/AOK. Sunshine.Spirits.829eWash/

A PIG IN A FUR COAT

940 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-316-3300.

Prime spot for amazing pork dishes, under the guidance of chef Dan Bonanno — a nominee for James Beard “Rising Star” status. Focus is on small plates — charcuterie, sardines, ravioli, pork belly, etc., but also large plates (tripe, chicken thigh, veal breast, trout). Local beer list and craft cocktail program. $11-$32. apiginafurcoat.com

ADAMAH NEIGHBORHOOD TABLE 611 LANGDON ST., 608-411-1574.

Kosher dining and catering in the Hillel. Fresh, healthy options with smoothiebar, breakfast plates, sandwiches, falafel and traditional matzoh ball soup. $4-$13. adamahmadison.com

AMBER INDIAN CUISINE

6913 UNIVERSITY AVE., 608-824-0324.

Southern and Northern Indian food a specialty. Noon buffet. Large number of vegetarian dishes and a wide-ranging selection of goat dishes. $4-$17. amberindianmadison.com

ANCORA COFFEE

112 KING ST., 608-255-0285. 2871 UNIVERSITY AVE., 608-233-5287.

The flagship location on King has a menu of breakfast sandwiches and a range of fancied-up grilled cheese creations, including a berry brie and a jalapeño apple. Breads are from Madison Sourdough; baked goods come from Batch. Also: evening hours and alcoholic coffee drinks. The excellent coffee is locally roasted and fair trade. $2-$7. ancoracoffee.com

AVENUE CLUB AND BUBBLE UP BAR 1128 E. WASHINGTON AVE., 608-257-6877.

Updated take on the Wisconsin Tavern ideal, at the site of the former Avenue Bar. Fish fries continue to be popular; so is brunch. The Bubble Burger and fries may be the best thing on the menu; pair it with a specialty mixed drink from the new bar. $8-$22. avenueclubmadison.com

BADGER ALLEY BISTRO

1440 MONROE ST. (INSIDE CAMP RANDALL).

Well-hidden food stand on the UW campus catering to student athletes but open to all. Healthy wraps, scrambles, burritos, bowls and sandwiches; all with calories, proteins and fats listed. Try the Southwestern powerbowl breakfast (360 calories!). Open weekdays only.$2-$4.50. uwbadgers.com/sports/2015/08/21/ GEN_20140101524.aspx

BANDUNG ALCHEMY CAFE

1980 ATWOOD AVE., 608-204-7644.

Pub food including the house apple rum burger. Other worthy fare includes a sockeye BLT and desserts by Honey Bee Bakery and Looking Glass Bakery. Veg-friendly, local sourcing, rotating craft beer selection. Inexpensive. alchemycafe.net 40

ISTHMUS DINING 2016

1511 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-441-0012

Variations on a theme, with sweet potato falafel, lamb and beef kebabs, blackened catfish salad and vegan baklava.$3-$13. banzoshuk.com

BAROLO

829 E. WASHINGTON AVE. , 608-237-1376

305 N. 4TH ST., 608-819-8893.

5TH ELEMENT

Criminally crispy, fresh-made falafel, housemade hummus and baba ganoush, salads, homemade chips and specials. The schnitzel — seasoned fried chicken in a pita — is a near-perfect object. Banzo also operates two food carts, one on Library Mall, the other roving. $5-$13. banzomadison.com

BANZO SHÜK

4 & 20 BAKERY AND CAFE

Quality bakery, breakfast and lunch spot. Pies, scones and other pastries are joined by lush specials like a textbook-perfect breakfast biscuit and fine pork fillings in lunchtime sandwiches. For dessert, don’t miss the replica of the “Oreo.” $5-$10. 4and20bakery.com

BANZO

2105 SHERMAN AVE., 608-441-2002.

600 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-255-6910.

Madison’s only Indonesian restaurant serves up excellent sate-ayam (chicken), sambalgoreng udang (shrimp) and the superb nasi goreng super, a kind of glorified fried rice. Homemade tempeh is a specialty. $6-$17. bandungrestaurant.com

Fine wine bar with warm, knowledgeable service and small plates for pairing. Flatbreads, albondigas en salsa diabla, and beef tartare are all good picks. $7-$15, wines by the glass $6-$10. facebook.com/ BaroloBarMadison

BARRIQUES

5957 MCKEE RD., FITCHBURG, 608-277-9463. 1901 CAYUGA ST., MIDDLETON, 608-824-9463. 1825 MONROE ST., 608-284-9463. 8410 OLD SAUK RD., MIDDLETON, 608-828-9502. 916 S. PARK ST., 608-819-6787. 127 W. WASHINGTON AVE., 608-268-6264. 2166 ATWOOD AVE., 608-286-1500.

Each of Barriques’ locations is slightly different, with coffees, wines, beers, deli sandwiches, salads and more on offer. $2-$11. barriquesmarket.com

BASSETT STREET BRUNCH CLUB 444 W. JOHNSON ST. (IN THE HAMPTON INN), 608-467-5051.

Brunch-all-day spot with a bar and a U-shaped diner counter. Indulgence is in almost every entree. Picks: the fried chicken and biscuit, the shrimp and grits, or, for a stab at self-control, the butternut and blue salad. There’s a long list of hairof-the-dog cocktails as well. $4-$16. brunchclubmadison.com

BATCH BAKEHOUSE

1402 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-257-1652.

There are a few eat-in tables and coffee, but most importantly sourdough loaves, ciabatta and the rustic Provencal loaf called fougasse. And the sweet is just as good as the savory, with muffins, scones, plain and filled croissants, morning buns and rich coffee cakes.$2-$10. batchbakehouse.com

BENVENUTO’S

2949 TRIVERTON PIKE DR., FITCHBURG, 608-278-7800. 1109 FOURIER DR., MIDDLETON, 608-826-0555. 1849 NORTHPORT DR., 608-241-1144.

Pasta, good wood-fired pizzas, made-toorder calzone, plus chicken, fish, pork, seafood and steak entrees. Gluten-free options available. $8-$22. benvenutos.com

BETTY LOU CRUISES

5360 WESTPORT RD., 608-246-3138.

Chow down while taking in the scenery of Lake Mendota or Monona. Pizza and beer cruises, a popular Sunday brunch with standout french toast and tasty Sunday dinner cruise, among others. Private group charter available. bettyloucruises.com

BLOOM BAKE SHOP

1834 PARMENTER ST., MIDDLETON, 608-831-5797.

Fresh-baked goods (sweets), with a farm-totable ethic. Locally sourced dairy and other ingredients. Vegan and gluten-free options available. Specialties include cupcakes and whoopie pies. Just Coffee is also served. $3-$7. bloombakeshop.com

BLOWIN’ SMOKE BBQ

1336 MONTONDON AVE., WAUNAKEE, 608-215-0069.

Kansas City-style barbecue with dry rubs and three different sauces. Sandwiches include chopped pork, brisket, ham, chicken and turkey; don’t miss the Three Little Pigs, stuffed with pork, pit ham, maple-smoked bacon, plus chipotle mayo. Also runs a food cart often seen on the Capitol Square. $6-$17. blowinsmokebbq.org

BLUE VELVET LOUNGE

430 W. GILMAN ST., 608-250-9900.

Long list of specialty martinis, hand-crafted cocktails, ice cream drinks and offbeat shot combos.$7-$10. thebluevelvetlounge.com .

BLUEPHIES

2701 MONROE ST., 608-231-3663.

Inventive sandwiches and burgers are joined by plentiful noodle bowls, enchiladas and some of the best salads in town. We’d opt for the sweet potato quesadilla or the ooey gooey pasta. $8-$14. bluephies.com

BONFYRE AMERICAN GRILLE

2601 W. BELTLINE HWY., 608-273-3973.

The centerpiece of the kitchen is the woodfired oven, with rotisserie chicken, Berkshire pork chops and steaks, topped with a variety of accompaniments. Seafood in flavorful, simple preparations. Gluten-free items are labeled. $10-$36. bonfyregrille.net

BRASSERIE V

1923 MONROE ST., 608-255-8500.

Intimate Belgian-inflected spot with great food. Moules et frites and steak-frites are joined by fondue, sandwiches, salads and the popular “V burger,” Fountain Prairie beef topped with Muenster cheese and beerbattered onion straws. Taps of Belgian and unique European imports, and American craft brews, outstanding list of bottled beers, wines by the glass. $6-$25. brasseriev.com

BRINK LOUNGE

701 E. WASHINGTON AVE., SUITE 105, 608-661-8599.

Appetizers and pizzas, big list of martinis and wines by the glass distinguish this lounge and event space. $4-$17. thebrinklounge.com

BROCACH IRISH PUB

7 W. MAIN ST., 608-255-2015. 1843 MONROE ST., 608-819-8653.

Homey Gaelic soul and some good food too; best of the bunch is a gravy-smothered roast chicken and the bangers and mash. $3-$17. brocach.com; brocachmonroe.com

BUCK AND BADGER

115 STATE ST., 608-230-7999.

Burgers and hearty Wisconsin fare in an up-north atmosphere. 16 beers on tap, many in-state. $6-$9. buckandbadger.com

CAFE ESTRELLÓN SEE “ESTRELLÓN” CAFE HOLLANDER 726 N. MIDVALE BLVD. (IN HILLDALE), 608-237-3168.

Buzzy, convivial Belgian-themed tavern atmosphere with house beers, real Belgian and American craft brews. Indulge in a rich stacked burger, or nosh on a charcuterie board. Breakfasts, and big ones, are also on hand. $5-$21. cafehollander.com 558 N. MIDVALE BLVD. (IN HILLDALE), 608-441-0202.

CAPTAIN BILL’S

2701 CENTURY HARBOR RD., MIDDLETON, 608-831-7327.

The deck, with a view of Lake Mendota, is a draw, as is the fish- and seafood-centric menu. Clam chowder, crabcakes, pan-fired walleye, coconut shrimp, plus steaks and a locavore pasta entree. $8-$30. capbills.com

CENTO

122 W. MIFFLIN ST., 608-284-9378.

Chef Michael Pruett brings his farm-to-table philosophy to this stylish Italian restaurant featuring lots of antipasti and small plates, pizzas, plus big-league entrees like rack of lamb, dry aged ribye and rabbit. $10-$60. centomadison.com

CHARLIE’S ON MAIN

113 S. MAIN ST., OREGON, 608-291-2255.

Restaurant, events and catering from chef David Heide of Liliana’s. Small plates, sandwiches and entrees all can be made either gluten-free,vegetarian or vegan. Local sourcing. $8-$17.charliesmainevent.com.

Reefer puns and subs and salads to quell the munchies.The Pakalolo sub with ham, pineapple and green bell peppers is good, as is the Kind, with turkey, mushrooms, bacon and Swiss. $4-$10. chebahut.com

• Year Round •

CHOCOLATE SHOPPE ICE CREAM

468 STATE ST., 608-255-5454. 2302 ATWOOD AVE., 800-466-8043. 1726 FORDEM AVE., 608-241-2747. 2981 TRIVERTON PIKE DR., 608-255-5454. 555 S. MIDVALE BLVD., 608-441-5248.

Farm-fresh dairy ingredients. 110 flavors (though not all are available at once); seasonal treats like Door County Cherry, s’mores, eggnog and pumpkin. Soy and low-sugar flavors, too. And real malts. $3-$7. chocolateshoppeicecream.com

CIRC

1 W. DAYTON ST. (IN THE CONCOURSE HOTEL), 608-257-6000.

Breakfast means omelets, eggs Benedict, even chicken fried steak; lunch is upscale sandwiches and grilled flatbreads and a popular all-you-can-eat salad bar. Dinner entrees include lamb, chicken,salmon, grass-fed beef, porkchops and more, all under the direction of chef Charles Lazzareschi. $7-$27. daytonstreetgrille.com

CLASEN’S EUROPEAN BAKERY 7610 DONNA DR., MIDDLETON, 608-831-2032.

Traditional European bakery with lots of German-influenced pastries, cakes and tortes, breads, and candies. $1-$10. clasensbakery.com

w w w. s a r d i n e m a d i s o n . c o m 617 W I L L I A M S O N S T

•

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CLUB TAVERN

1915 BRANCH ST., MIDDLETON, 608-836-3773.

Burger baskets, sandwiches, barbecue, sirloin steak specials and Friday fish fry. $3-$16. clubtavern.com

! N PE O

Authentic Neapolitan pizza; the made-inItaly oven will cook your pie perfectly in only 90 seconds at 900 degrees. Try the Allegra, a white pizza topped with mushrooms and dabs of mascarpone cheese; the Salsiccia, a simple tomato-sauce pizza with mozzarella, mushrooms and sausage; or the classic Margherita. Also pastas and salads. $7-$14. cafeportaalba.com

453 W. GILMAN ST., 608-843-2718.

W O N

CAFE PORTA ALBA

Sustainable by nature

CHEBA HUT

CONCOURSE HOTEL BAR

1 W. DAYTON ST., 608-257-6000.

Pizza, appetizers and other bar food faves. $5-$15. concoursehotel.com

THE COOPERS TAVERN

20 W. MIFFLIN ST., 608-256-1600.

Irish pub and soccer/rugby watching hangout; spacious second floor event space. Appetizers include the “Sconnie egg,” frites and poutine; soups, salads and sandwiches. Housecured corned beef. The draft beer menu is thoughtfully curated, ranging from Dane County to Belgium and Ireland. $5-$20. thecooperstavern.com

7 days/week – 5:00PM-10:00PM Happy Hour – Starts @ 4:00PM

COW & QUINCE

407 2ND ST., NEW GLARUS, 608-527-2900;

One of the very best farm-to-table restaurants serves breakfast and lunch items, with a few changing daily specials. It’s all as local and as fresh as possible. $6-$12, more for monthly prix fixe dinners that require reservations. cowandquince.com

AMERICAN EATERY | FULL BAR

CURRY IN THE BOX

3519 UNIVERSITY AVE., 608-238-1900. 3050 CAHILL MAIN, FITCHBURG, 608-273-9100.

Mostly Thai curries in a fast casual setting, with some Indian- and Japaneseinfluenced dishes, and both rice and noodle dishes. $4-$13. curryinthebox.com; curryintheboxuniversity.com

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ISTHMUS DINING 2016

DAISY CAFE AND CUPCAKERY

EDO JAPANESE RESTAURANT

FOREQUARTER

708 E. JOHNSON ST., 608-609-4717.

105 W. MAIN ST. 608-255-4770.

Cupcakes are a highlight, of course, but this casual east-side spot is a favorite for breakfasts and lunches daily. Stratas and omelets are great in the morning; at lunch and dinner, try the six different varieties of meat (and meatless) loaves, burgers and sandwiches. Vegetarian and gluten-free offerings. $3-$15. daisycafeandcupcakery.com

Sushi, teriyaki, donburi, yaki soba, good light tempura and all-day bento box specials. $3-$30. edojapaneserestaurant.com

Local seasonal menu changes daily. Very fresh, very consciously sourced, inventive dishes; house-cured meats. Extensive bar program. $8-$34. forequartermadison.com

Classic cocktails, 60 bottled beers and 12 taps. Happy hour. Available for private parties. $3-$10. gennaslounge.com

2827 ATWOOD AVE., 608-241-2200.

DEXTER’S PUB

301 NORTH ST., 608-244-3535.

Sandwiches, salads, Wednesday and Friday fish fry in this friendly neighborhood pub. Meat from Knoche’s butcher shop. A real beer lover’s hangout as well, with changing craft and microbrews on 24 taps, Wisconsin and unexpected nationals. $7-$16. dexterspubmadison.com

ECHO TAP

554 W. MAIN ST., 608-256-6928.

Char-broiled sandwiches and other tavern fare; pizza. $4-$19. echotapmadison.com

EDGEWATER HOTEL-BOATHOUSE 1001 WISCONSIN PL., 608-535-8232.

Two-story casual eatery and lakeside deck with curated craft cocktail list, local taps and upgraded versions of bar standards and seaside favorites. The clam chowder and the burger with a side of Old Bay-seasoned fries make a fine meal.$4-$16. theedgewater. com/dining

EDGEWATER HOTEL-ICEHOUSE 1001 WISCONSIN PL., 608-535-8232.

Grab-and-go snacks, soups, sandwiches and pizza, plus Wisconsin craft beer.$4-$10. theedgewater.com/dining

EDGEWATER HOTEL-STATEHOUSE

532 S. PARK ST., 608-268-0247.

EL SABOR DE PUEBLA

1133 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-422-5264.

The menu is familiar Mexican fare, tacos, tortas, enchiladas, with a few surprises. Lunch combos are $8. And the restaurant sources from the Los Jalapeños CSA. The mole sauce is a highlight (try it on the enchiladas or chicken). The picaditas are the real showstoppers, though; the soft, savory tartlets arrive still warm from the griddle. $2-$12.

FRANCESCA’S AL LAGO

Pizzas, pasta, sandwiches and entree salads, as well as chicken, pork chops and seafood. The quattro stagioni pizza, with prosciutto. mushrooms, olives and an egg placed center stage, is a showstopper. $6-$30. miafrancesca.com

313 W. JOHNSON ST., 608-251-2111.

Sprawling tapas menu plus large plates from James Beard Award-winning chef Tory Miller. Spanish tortillas, paella, even popular don’t-miss Wednesday burger night. There’s so much you should order. $6-$55 (paella for two). estrellonrestaurant.com

FAST BIRYANI

4738 E. WASHINGTON AVE., 608-422-5099.

Hyderabadi cuisine, with a fast-food emphasis. Indian-style wraps of curry in a naan flatbread are a stroke of genius. Also try the haleem, a stew of meat, cracked wheat, lentils, ginger, and rocket-hot chilis. Meat is mostly restricted to lamb and chicken. Biryanis and kebabs round out the menu. $3-$15. fastbiryani.com

FIT FRESH CUISINE

FREE HOUSE PUB

1902 PARMENTER ST., MIDDLETON, 608-831-5000.

Appetizers, salads, burgers and sandwiches with emphasis on local sourcing. $5-$15. freehousepub.com

FREIBURG GASTROPUB

2612 MONROE ST., 608-204-2755.

Local and German beers, German-style food. Appetizers of sunchoke frites, chicken liver pate and potato pancakes; other smaller meals such as house bratwurst, pierogi and smoked trout salad; and larger meals such as grilled quail, veal cutlet, seared scallops with potato dumplings, and a black angus burger. $5-$14. freiburgmadison.com

FRESHII

422 GAMMON PLACE, 608-821-0209.

Fast-casual spot with healthy wraps, salads, burritos and bowls. The most successful items have a healthy bent or sport strong Asian flavors. The Thai Lemongrass burrito might be one of the best things on the menu. $4-$9. freshii.com

2881 COMMERCE PARK DR., FITCHBURG, 608-277-8347.

GAIL AMBROSIUS CHOCOLATIER

A regionally sourced, modern American menu for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Steaks and chops a specialty.At the bar, classic cocktails, extensive wine list, Wisconsin craft beers. $8-$56. theedgewater.com/dining

Healthy foods, locally sourced, all nutritional info available. Breakfast items, smoothies, wraps, sandwiches, pizza and salads; weekly and monthly meal plans available. $2-$9. fitfreshcuisine.com

Fine handmade chocolates, with truffles, seasonal specialties and regional flavors. Faves include the caramel sprinkled with salt and the Maharajah curry. gailambrosius.com

EDO GARDEN

FORAGE KITCHEN

1001 WISCONSIN PL., 608-535-8230.

6309 MONONA DR., MONONA, 608-226-9828.

One room features hibachi tables, the other’s for less dramatic dining. Sushi, teriyaki, donburi, yaki soba, good light tempura and all-day bento box specials. $3-$34. edojapaneserestaurant.com

665 STATE ST., 608-286-1455.

Build-your-own salads and grain bowls from an interesting and often locally sourced selection of veggies, proteins and sauces. Fresh squeezed juices and acai bowls, too. $6-$12. foragemadison.com.

Bar spans two stories of a former house, remodeled in a relaxed but elegant east-side style. The ground floor bar is dedicated to quick pours, like kegged cocktails and 13 tap beers plus a small wine selection. The second floor is devoted to more complicated cocktails, rotating. Limited menu of snacks. 45-$15. gibs.bar

GIGI’S CUPCAKES

601 JUNCTION RD., 608-664-9565.

ESTRELLÓN

GIB’S BAR

1380 WILLIAMSON ST. (NO PHONE)

111 MARTIN LUTHER KING JR. BLVD., 608-255-6000.

ENO VINO WINE BAR AND BISTRO Sophisticated dining room and bar, an impressive wine list, and good calamari, ahi tartar, petite filet with potato goat cheese stack. $8-$28. eno-vino.com

GENNA’S

2086 ATWOOD AVE., 608-249-3500.

GATES & BROVI

3502 MONROE ST., 608-819-8988

Family-friendly yet sophisticated, this focused menu from the folks who bring you Sardine and Marigold Kitchen includes burgers and sandwiches, but also East Coast fare like clam pizzas, fisherman’s stew and a few other coastal specialities. $6-$22. gatesandbrovi.com

554 N MIDVALE BLVD. (IN HILLDALE), 608-661-7465.

Cupcakes big and small, cheesecakes, stuffed cookies and other daily special flavors. Some gluten-free options. gigiscupcakesusa.com/ madisonwisconsin

GLASS NICKEL PIZZA

2916 ATWOOD AVE., 608-245-0880. 3191 MUIR FIELD RD., 608-848-4877. 5003 UNIVERSITY AVE., 608-218-9000. 101 W. MAIN ST., SUN PRAIRIE, 608-834-9919.

Well known for specialty pizzas including the all-time favorite, the Fetalicious, but don’t overlook non-pizza entrees: pasta, salads, subs and particularly the Mediterranean lasagna. $5-$22. glassnickelpizza.com

GOOSEBERRY ON THE SQUARE 1 S. PINCKNEY ST., 608-467-6552.

Centerpiece is the extensive the salad bar, with pick of fresh lettuces and a range of toppers. Beyond the expected, look for pickled green beans, spicy pickled beets, corn kernels, large fresh radish slices, Kalamata olives, chunks of raw zucchini and yellow squash, mandarin oranges and dried fruits. Breakfast (all day) is focused on scrambles and breakfast burritos, French toast, and pancakes. Sandwiches, pasta entrees. $5-$9. gooseberrymadison.com

GOTHAM NEW YORK BAGELS AND EATS 112 E. MIFFLIN ST., 608-467-7642.

This shop offers hand-rolled bagels in the New York style, in myriad flavors. Plus there’s breakfast (bagel sandwiches), spreads (creamed cheese and tofu), daily soup specials and more extravagant lunch sandwiches. $1-$10. gothambagels.com

Wisconsin’s finest ingredients meet global inspiration

Authentic Traditional Neapolitan Cuisine Certified AVPN Pizza Neapolitan direct from Naples, Italy to Downtown Madison HERITAGE BRUNCH 9 :30am until 2 pm Saturday & Sunday 42

ISTHMUS DINING 2016

131 EAST MIFFLIN ST 608.283.9500 HERITAGETAVERN.COM

STAY TUNED FOR NEW 2016 HOURS: DELIVERY, BRUNCH & LUNCH COMING SOON! Chef Salvatore Di Scala | 608.250.6330 | 15 N Butler St, Madison, WI www.naples15.com |

GRAZE

HARVEST

JULEP

Locally sourced iglobal comfort foods. Playful starters; lavish brunch. The pub burger is top-notch, but so is the vegetarian beet and walnut burger. $7-$26. grazemadison.com

Farm-to-table fine dining in sight of the Capitol. Menu changes seasonally; watch, too, for many special theme dinners, for heirloom tomatoes, garlic and more. $7-$42. harvest-restaurant.com

Snacks, small plates and full dinners across the spectrum of the new Southern cuisine in a laid-back but elegant surroundings inside the new Robinia Courtyard complex. Beautiful outdoor patio for good-weather dining. $4-$22. facebook.com/julepmadison

GRAFT

18 N. CARROLL ST., 608-229-8800.

Elegant local menu with an emphasis on vegetables, seafood, and some meat dishes. Large plates are three: steak, pheasant and chicken. Extensive wine list. $7-$34. graftmadison.com

GRAMPA’S PIZZERIA

1374 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-283-9580.

Excellent starters, and for dessert, the sticky ginger cake and ice cream sandwiches. But the star remains the focused pizza selections, market-driven salads, good wine list and local beers. $8-$15. grampaspizzeria.com

GREEN LIFE CAFE

1934 MONROE ST., 608-709-5177.

Crepes, salads and smoothies are at the heart of this healthy, locavore cafe. Organic and gluten-free ingredients. Market-fresh ingredients are a focus of the daily crepe menu. $4-$11. greenlifecafemadison.com

GREENBUSH BAKERY

1305 REGENT ST., 608-257-1151.

Homemade doughnuts, apple fritters — and kosher, too! Drop by in the wee hours and get them hot and fresh. Takeout only. facebook.com/pages/GreenbushBakery/205766849445054

GRUMPY TROLL BREW PUB, RESTAURANT AND PIZZERIA 105 S. 2ND ST., MOUNT HOREB, 608-437-2739 (PUB), 608-437-2741 (PIZZERIA).

Creative and award-winning house-brewed beers. The restaurant serves a large number of sandwiches, soups, salads and burgers as well as dinner entrees. Upstairs in the pizzeria, dough is made from the spent grains used in the beers. Friday beer-battered fish; Saturday prime rib. Gluten-free on request. $5-$19 thegrumpytroll.com

HA LONG BAY

1353 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-255-2868.

Big menu with items from Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese cuisines. Very popular, and it’s hard to go wrong; curries are a particular strength. The Bay really makes good with the pho, too. $4-$20. halongbaymadison.com

HAMILTON’S ON THE SQUARE

101 N. HAMILTON ST., 608-819-3387.

Small plates and entrees.Cheese plates, housemade gnudi, sandwiches, salads and flatbreads.Craft cocktails and thoughtful tap selection. $7-$29. hamiltonsonthesquare.com.

HARMONY BAR

2201 ATWOOD AVE., 608-249-4333.

Friendly neighborhood hangout with burgers right up there with the best in town. The creamy blue cheese burger is a star, but so’s the homemade, secret-recipe walnut burger. Pizzas, dinner salads, homemade soups and desserts daily. $6-$11. harmonybarandgrill.com

21 N. PINCKNEY ST., 608-255-6075.

HERITAGE BAKERY AND CAFE

4674 COTTAGE GROVE RD., 608-222-0136.

Sandwich and coffee shop serving breakfast and lunch. Excellent pastries and pies, baked in-house. $5-$9. heritagebakeryandcafe.com

829 E. WASHINGTON AVE., 608-237-1904.

KANGCHEN INDIAN CUISINES

7475 MINERAL POINT RD., 608-841-1619.

2424 UNIVERSITY AVE. (IN THE INNTOWNER), 608-233-8778 EXT. 515.

One of several new Indian eateries highlighting Indo-Chinsese dishes. Tawa fish, goat curries and classics like chicken tikka masala are good options. $3-$20; lunch buffet $12. kangchenindiancuisine.com

Casual American fare. Buffet-style breakfast. $7-$25.

3698 KINSMAN BLVD., 608-241-4811.

THE HIGHLAND GRILL

HONG KONG CAFE

2 S. MILLS ST., 608-259-1668.

Primarily Cantonese food featuring dim sum Saturday and Sunday mornings. $6-$20. hkcafemadison.com

HOPCAT

222 W. GORHAM ST., 608-807-1361.

This mini-chain out of Michigan offers a wide range of regional, global and Belgian beers, plus a full bar. Soups, salads, burgers, wraps, pretzels, and the famous Crack Fries, beer-battered with cracked pepper seasoning. $5-$13. hopcat.com/madison

HUBBARD AVENUE DINER

7445 HUBBARD AVE., MIDDLETON, 608-831-6800.

KARBEN4 BREWING

A modest but fun food menu and some of the buzziest beers in town. Look for the summer sausage in a Reuben and the sausage board, plus other charcuterie from Underground Meats. Brunch on Sunday. $4-$17. karben4.com

KITCHEN GALLERY

107 KING ST., 608-467-6544.

Gourmet culinary shop with wide range of tools and supplies from Emile Henry, de Buyer and American Skillet, plus vast selection of high-end cookbooks. kitchengallerymadison.com

KUNG FU TEA

449 STATE ST., 608-819-8809.

Bubble tea, smoothies, slushies, coffee. $2-$5. kftusa.com

Mid-century-modern diner specializes in house-made pies. American diner fare includes breakfasts, sandwiches and burgers, big bowls, classic meatloaf and mashed potatoes. Many vegetarian entrees. Gluten-sensitive menu available. $3-$14. hubbardavenuediner.com

L’ETOILE

HY-VEE GROCERY

LA BAGUETTE

Dining room, hot and cold deli, sandwich station, Italian, Chinese, and salad bar, daily specials and a la carte options. Friday fish buffet. And the fried chicken is really pretty darn good. $3-$10. hy-vee.com

La Baguette bakes boules, brioches, batardes, baguettes, ciabatta and other loaves like raisin walnut; pastries, including Napoleons; croissants, turnovers, tarts and more. Plus they serve sandwiches and a variety of quiches (goat cheese and fresh basil, mushroom, ham) as well. The space is light, open and airy, with plenty of tables for a sit-down. $4-$12. facebook. com/pages/La-Baguette-MadisonWi/186714584694839

3801 E. WASHINGTON AVE., 608-244-4696. 675 S. WHITNEY WAY, 608-277-6735. 2920 FITCHRONA RD., FITCHBURG, 608-273-5120.

IAN’S PIZZA

100 STATE ST., 608-442-3535. 319 N. FRANCES ST., 608-257-9248.

Slices with inventive toppings from mac and cheese to an Italian meat sandwich on a textbook-perfect crust. State Street has a build-you-own salad option. $3-$9. ianspizza.com

THE ICON

206 STATE ST., 608-256-3000.

Tapas spot on upper State Street with 55-dish Spanish menu, plus a regular dinner menu, with a good roasted chicken and braised short ribs. $6-$22. theiconmadison.com

JACS

2611 MONROE ST., 608-441-5444.

Sandwiches with a Mediterranean influence. Flatbreads, salads; well known as very gluten-free friendly. Craft beer and cider; gluten-free beers (bottle). $5-$28. jacsdiningandtaphouse.com

1 S. PINCKNEY ST., 608-251-0500.

Tasting menu, three- or seven-course, locally sourced foods from James Beard Awardwinning chef Tory Miller. Fine wine and cocktail program. Reservations suggested. $55-$125. letoile-restaurant.com

Award winning brewery

7424 MINERAL POINT RD, 807-827-6775.

LA BRIOCHE TRUE FOOD

2862 UNIVERSITY AVE., 608-233-3388.

An authentic from-scratch bakery, with breakfast, lunch and extensive dinners. A near-west brunch favorite. $7-$20. truefoodrestaurant.com

LA ROSITA

6005 MONONA DR., MONONA, 608-221-2203.

Nice taqueria with a few booths for seating. Fresh-made burritos, tacos, tortas and gorditas every day, with more homemade barbacoa, carnitas and tamales on the weekend. Large grocery area with produce and butcher counter as well. $2-$9.

LANE’S BAKERY

2304 S. PARK ST., 608-251-0532.

Cakes for special occasions, homemade kringle, cookies, doughnuts, Danish and other pastries. $3-$9. lanesbakeryandcoffee.com

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LAUREL TAVERN

2505 MONROE ST., 608-233-1043.

Neighborhood tap for the near west side, long loved for its Friday night fish fries, brats, and hamburgers. $4-$8. thelaureltavern.com

LAYLA’S PERSIAN FOOD

141 S. BUTLER ST., 608-216-4511.

Authentic, home-style Persian food.The nutty fesenjoon is a must-order.There is a short flight of steps down to the small dining area. $8-$13. facebook.com/ pages/Laylas-Persian-food-with-a-localflare/660630290614974?ref=stream

LE PETIT CROISSANT

1310 MIDVALE BLVD., 608-807-2662.

Small bakery and coffee shop with breakfast baked goods, plus sandwiches, salads and soups. Steep and Brew coffees. $2-$9.

LILIANA’S RESTAURANT

2951 TRIVERTON PIKE, FITCHBURG, 608-442-4444.

New Orleans cuisine in Fitchburg. Menu highlights include jambalaya, bouillabaisse, file gumbo, sea scallops, crabmeat tortelloni with corn maque choux. Muffaletta and oyster po’ boys are available at dinner as well as lunch. $4-$32. lilianasrestaurant.com

LOMBARDINO’S RESTAURANT

2500 UNIVERSITY AVE., 608-238-1922.

Upscale Italian, but also great pizzas and Caesar salad. Menu changes seasonally. The pasta dishes are outstanding. $7-$44. lombardinos.com

MADISON ORIENTAL MARKET DELI

METCALFE’S MARKET

NAPLES 15

Hmong specialties and bubble tea are the stock-in-trade of this deli window at the rear of the market. $1-$7.

At the cafe, choose from frittatas, quiches and wraps. Sushi bar, plus gourmet pizzas made to order. Vast array of deli options. shopmetcalfes.com

The Neapolitan pizzas are among the best in town, coming out of a massive imported wood-burning oven. Try the sausage or the the ricotta and pancetta.$9-$40. naples15.com

MEZZE

NATT SPIL

Small pllates with a Lebanese bent and craft cocktails, in the mode of the decade. The menu is smartly divided between “cold,” “hot” and “pizza.” And the pizzas are stars. Decent wine list, too.$8-$16. facebook.com/pages/ mezze-madison/627686384030792

New dishes every week, but you might find thin-crust pizza, a must-eat pork sandwich, or three-cup chicken. $3-$11. nattspil.com

2119 FISH HATCHERY RD., 608-(608) 310-4288

MADISON SOURDOUGH BAKERY AND PATISSERIE 916 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-442-8009.

At breakfast, quiche, house granola and steelcut oatmeal served with balsamic macerated berries are some of the stars. House-baked rustic loaves, breakfast pastries and more segue into lunch sandwiches, salads and soups. Fresh seasonal ingredients with local sourcing when available. The new patisserie focuses on cakes, cookies, tarts, cakes and other sweets. $2-$15. madisonsourdough.com

726 N. MIDVALE BLVD., 608-238-7612. 7455 MINERAL POINT RD., 608-829-3500.

414 W. GILMAN ST., 608-255-8172.

MICKEY’S TAVERN

1524 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-251-9964.

MADISON’S

119 KING ST., 608-229-0900.

Hamburgers, sandwiches, plus fish and steak dinners. $8-$19. madisonsdowntown.com

MADISTAN

317 N. BASSETT ST., 608-422-5422.

Pakistani specials on the whiteboard are augmented by chicken tikka and beef kabab rolls, all excellent choices. Burgers, gyros and fried chicken complete the American side of the menu. $2.50-$10.

MAHARANI

380 W. WASHINGTON AVE., 608-251-9999.

Among the Indian standards, look for a large selection of south Indian dosas and uttapams. Great beef masala, veggie mango. Lunch buffet. $6-$18. maharaniindianrestaurant.com

MANNA CAFE

611 N. SHERMAN AVE., 608-663-5500.

From-scratch baked goods including breads, lush desserts and pastries. Inventive sandwiches, quiches, soups and salads. Platters include a Southwestern bowl and a French countryside picnic. $6-$11. mannacafe.com

MARIGOLD KITCHEN

118 S. PINCKNEY ST., 608-661-5559.

Personal touches abound at this busy breakfast/lunch bistro. Twists on breakfast and lunch, with chili-poached eggs, French toast drizzled with pastry cream and fresh berries, hearty sandwiches, salads and soups. $6-$16. marigoldkitchen.com

The venerable tavern serves an upgrade on bar food, from burgers to macaroni and cheese. The Sexy Fries, fried potato chips with a truffle oil dressing and grated Parmesan, are a new classic. Also, pizza, sandwiches, salads.$4-$9. facebook.com/ MickeysTavern 2405 ALLEN BLVD., MIDDLETON, 608-826-5129.

Thoughtful neighborhood pub with burgers, brats, sandwiches, wraps, and daily lunch and dinner specials. Bloody Mary bar Saturdays and Sundays 11 am-3 pm with a “fixin’s” buffet. $4-$11. midtownpub.com

MONTY’S BLUE PLATE DINER

2089 ATWOOD AVE., 608-244-8505.

Monty’s still does the nouveau diner proud. It serves breakfast all day — like a diner should. More unusually, it has great and plentiful vegetarian and some vegan options. The meatless meatloaf of the Gods is as good as the meatloaf of the Gods — how’s that for a recommendation? $4-$11. montysblueplatediner.com

MR. BREWS TAPHOUSE

305 W. JOHNSON ST., 608-819-6841. 610 JUNCTION RD. SUITE 107, 608-824-9600. 611 HOMETOWN CIRCLE, VERONA, 608-845-2280. 300 N. CENTURY AVE., WAUNAKEE, 608-849-4644.

Top steaks pair with jumbo shrimp, scallops, salmon, walleye, lobster tail and more. Don’t pass up the crisp, oniony house hash-browns. $10-$47. marinersmadison.com

MARRAKESH

NAF NAF GRILL

Moroccan and Mediterranean cuisine in a beautifully updated space. The appetizers make a fine mezze or an outright meal: mohamara, zaluuk, harira, lamb shawarma. $5-$18. marrakeshrestaurant.net

The Chicago-area mini-chain puts together Mediterranean bowls and pita sandwiches with a choice of steak, chicken or falafel, plus nummus and baba ganoush. $3-$9. nafnafgrill.com

5339 LIGHTHOUSE BAY DR., 608-246-3120.

5510 UNIVERSITY AVE., 608-238-7111.

555 STATE ST., 608-286-1242.

NANI MERCHANT

121 S. PINCKNEY ST., 608-259-9799.

Well known for craft cocktails, with 40some bourbons and other top ingredients on hand. But artisan meats in sandwiches and salads for lunch and small plates and a half-dozen entrees for dinner add to the draw of this modern space. $7-$30. merchantmadison.com 44

ISTHMUS DINING 2016

211 KING ST., (NO PHONE).

NATURE’S BAKERY CO-OP

1019 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-257-3649.

The storefront is open Monday through Saturday at this working bakery. naturesbakery.coop

NAU-TI-GAL

5360 WESTPORT RD., 608-246-3130.

Friday fish fry, Sunday brunch and daily specials in this informal restaurant on the Yahara River at the north end of Lake Mendota. Outdoor and porch dining in summer, music. $8-$20. nautigal.com/ nautigal

MID TOWN PUB

48 taps are joined by a roster of burgers that come with various toppings including add-ons fried eggs and bratwursts. Skip the fries and head for the fresh-cut chips, or try the Pub Grub — a big basket of chips topped with bacon, green onions and a good portion of creamy beer cheese sauce. Veggie patty available. $4-$9. mrbrewstaphouse.com

MARINER’S INN

15 N. BUTLER ST., 608-250-6330.

518 GRAND CANYON DR., 608-826-9300.

Dim sum, served daily, along with a full menu of about a hundred more appetizers and dinners. There are standards like hot and sour soup, kung pao chicken and so forth, but also less-frequently-seen offerings like jellyfish with Szechuan sauce, pork stomach with hot chilis and tea-flavored pigeon. $4-$23. facebook.com/NaniRestaurantWI

TAKE-OUT

NEW ORLEANS

1920 FORDEM AVE, 608-241-6655. 1517 MONROE ST, 608-280-8000.

Tasty Creole cuisine to bring home and enjoy. Barbecued shrimp, shrimp etouffee, fried oysters and catfish. Watch for fried oyster season, too. Finish with a heavenly slice of sweet potato pecan pie. $4-$16. eatmobettah.com

NEW SEOUL

721 N. HIGH POINT RD., 608-829-3331.

Fine Korean food, including rock cooker bibimbap, bulgogi, and a faithful rendition of the labor-intensive chicken and ginger soup, sam gae tang. Other soup recs include glass potato noodle soup with red cabbage and beef as well as the squid, octopus, mussel, clam, shrimp and egg bean paste stew. $6$27. newseoulmadison.com

NEXT DOOR BREWING

2439 ATWOOD AVE., 608-729-3683.

Neighborhood nanbrewery with casual urban charm. Seasonal menu from small plates to burgers to dinner entrees. Gluten-free and vegan options. $6-$13. nextdoorbrewing.com

NITTY GRITTY RESTAURANT AND BAR

223 N. FRANCES ST., 608-251-2521. 1021 N. GAMMON RD., MIDDLETON, 608-833-6489. 315 E. LINNERUD DR., SUN PRAIRIE, 608-837-4999.

Best known for dispensing free soda or beer on someone’s birthday in a keepsake mug. Burgers are popular, but there are also sandwiches and daily specials on the menu. $6-$16. thegritty.com

NORSKE NOOK

100 E. HOLUM ST., DEFOREST, 608-842-3378

Pie is the Norske Nook’s claim to fame, from its original location in Osseo, Wisconsin. They’re just as good in DeForest. Also, comfort food breakfasts, lunches and dinners. Norweigian meatballs with mashed potatoes and gravy are favorites. $3-$15. norskenook.com

NOSTRANO

111 S. HAMILTON ST., 608-395-3295.

Contemporary menu with Italian and other Mediterranean influences, craft cocktails and the best desserts in town from James Beard Award-nominated pastry chef Elizabeth Dahl. Seasonal, locally sourced ingredients. $11$30. nostranomadison.com

THE OLD FASHIONED

PASQUAL’S CANTINA

670 N. MIDVALE BLVD., 608-663-8226. 1851 MONROE ST., 608-238-4419. 1344 E. WASHINGTON AVE., 608-497-3333. 100 CROSS COUNTRY RD., VERONA, 608-497-3333.

Burritos, quesadillas, tacos, enchiladas, tamales, blue corn bread, fresh guacamole and salsa every day. $6-$13. pasqualscantina.com

23 N. PINCKNEY ST., 608-310-4545.

PIZZA BRUTTA

Upscale Wisconsin tavern a contradiction in terms? Enjoy your favorites in a civilized throwback. Wurst plates, mac ’n’ cheese and classic burgers, plus — obviously — a Friday fish fry with choice of cod, perch or walleye. Serves breakfasts, too.$5-$28. theoldfashioned.com

Wood-oven pizza made with fresh mozzarella and local and organic ingredients, plus sandwiches and salads. Don’t overlook the sandwiches. $5-$12. pizzabrutta.com

1805 MONROE ST., 608-257-2120. 6712 FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT AVE., MIDDLETON

OLIVER’S PUBLIC HOUSE

2540 UNIVERSITY AVE., 608-819-8555.

There’s loads of handsome distressed wood, and a square-shaped bar makes the earthtone-rich space feel both cozy and active. The result is understated and sophisticated. The farm-to-table efforts are laudable, but craft cocktails truly put Oliver’s on the map. The seared scallops and shrimp, cheese plate, trout and grilled pork chop are all wise menu picks. $9-$27. oliverspublichouse.com

OSTERIA PAPAVERO

128 E. WILSON ST., 255-8376.

Trattoria serving casual Italian cuisine with sensual treats like Bresaola Rucola e Granta (air-dried beef, arugula and grana padano cheese). With sandwiches, salads and bread sides for lunch; pasta, seafood and meat entrees for dinner. $6-$24. osteriapapavero.com

OTTO’S

6405 MINERAL POINT RD., 608-274-4044.

1870 farmhouse serving Mediterraneaninspired cuisine, seafood, Certified Black Angus steaks. $8-$37. ottosrestaurant.com

PAINTBAR

1224 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-518-3044.

Painting, plus wine and beer, panini and flatbread pizzas. It’s good food, but it’s the overall experience that will keep customers coming back. Note: Paint is nontoxic, so finger foods are okay. $5-$11. paint-bar.com

PAISAN’S

131 W. WILSON ST., 608-257-3832.

Outdoor dining overlooking Lake Monona at this Madison institution. Go-to dishes: The classic Garibaldi sandwich, popular Porta salad, pasta and thin-crust pizza. $6-$11. paisansrestaurant.biz

PAOLI SCHOOLHOUSE CAFE

6857 PAOLI RD., PAOLI, 608-848-6261.

Salads, soups, sandwiches and pastas in a restored schoolhouse in scenic Paoli on the Sugar River. Vegan and gluten-free options. Wine, beer and cocktails, too. $5-$12. paolischoolhouseshops.com/cafe

PARADISE LOUNGE

119 W. MAIN ST., 608-256-2263.

Burgers, sandwiches,fries. Daily specials worth looking for, too: meatloaf, enchiladas and Friday fish fry. $4-$8. thenewparadiselounge.com

PLAN B

924 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-257-5262.

LGBT dance club and bar. planbmadison.com

A P R I L 2 9 – M AY 8 , 2 0 1 6

PLAZA TAVERN

319 N. HENRY ST., 608-255-6592.

Home of the famous Plaza Burger and famous secret sauce. Grilled sandwiches, fries and a selection of beers including local craft brews. $4-$6. theplazatavern.com

BEER KETTLE SPONSORS

PORTA BELLA

425 N. FRANCES ST., 608-256-3186.

A famed romantic spot with Italian cuisine, pizza and ice cream drinks, plus a wine bar serving hors d’oeuvres. $8-$28. portabellarestaurant.biz

PORTAGE PI

601 LANGDON ST., 608-257-3233.

The Graduate Hotel upgrades the grab-n-go concept with housemade hand pies both sweet and savory, beautiful salads, panini, coffee drinks, smoothies and hand-pressed juices. The rich pies are special treats, but the healthy salads should balance it all out. $5-$12. portagepi.com

1/2 BARREL SPONSORS

RARE STEAKHOUSE

14 W. MIFFLIN ST., 608-204-9000.

Spacious traditional-style steakhouse with an emphasis on top quality, dry-aged beef steaks. Fresh chilled seafood, duck fat frites, extensive wine cellar. $12-$75. rareonthesquare.com

RED ROCK SALOON

322 W. JOHNSON ST., 608-709-5200.

Southern barbecue, Texas chili, burgers, super-hot chicken wings with a variety of sauces (tasty and probably worth the fuss). Well-spiced and crispy sweet potato tots. Live music and a mechanical bull. $5-$25. redrockmadison.com

THE RED ZONE

12012 REGENT ST., 608-251-6766.

Burgers and fries, fried curds, onion rings, fish sandwich, French dip, brats, BLT, and Buffalo wings; eat ’em all in the flickering glow of the 150” projection TV. $5-$15. theredzonemadison.com

RESTAURANT MURAMOTO

1/4 BARREL SPONSORS

ALT BREW, BABES BAR & GRILL, BLUE MOON, BRASSERIE V, CARDINAL BAR, COME BACK IN/UP NORTH, FESTIVAL FOODS, THE GRUMPY TROLL, HOP HAUS BREWING, HOUSE OF BREWS, THE MALT HOUSE, METCALFE’S MARKET, NESSALLA KOMBUCHA, NEXT DOOR BREWING, NITTY GRITTY, THE OAKS GOLF COURSE, ONE BARREL BREWING CO., PEARL STREET BREWERY, THE RIGBY PUB, TEX TUBB’S TACO PALACE, WHISKY JACKS SALOON, WHOLE FOODS MARKET, WISCONSIN UNION, THE WISE AT HOTELRED 1/6 BARREL SPONSORS

GAIL AMBROSIUS, GREY’S TIED HOUSE, JORDAN’S BIG TEN PUB, KARBEN4, THE PARADISE LOUNGE, PARCHED EAGLE BREWERY, QUIVEY’S GROVE, SPRECHER’S PUB, UW DEPT. OF FOOD SCIENCE, WORLD OF BEER

225 KING ST., 608-259-1040.

Thrilling izakaya-style options and fusionsushi. Skewers, rice and noodle bowls, and dynamite miso-marinated black cod. $5-$27. muramoto.biz

MADBEERWEEK.COM

ISTHMUS DINING 2016

THE RIGBY

SÍ CAFE

TAQUERIA EL JALAPEÑO

Appetizers, salads, wraps, sandwiches and burgers, with Beatles-themed names. Craft beers and good happy hour. specials. $7-$19. therigbypub.com

Third wave coffee served in a barber shop. $3-$5. sicafemadison.com

ROMAN CANDLE PIZZA

109 S. CHERRY ST., GALESBURG, IL, 309-342-3474

El Jalapeño serves food that should make you feel good, like you’re in someone’s home, in a cozy little space on Midvale at the Beltline. Try the huge Molcajete El Jalapeño (chicken, pork, shrimp, chorizo, steak, pickled carrots, cactus and cheese); for tacos, it’s all about the lengua, though others are good. $3-$18. facebook.com/pages/Taqueria-El-Jalapeno

119 E. MAIN ST., 608-442-1112.

117 S. PINCKNEY ST., 608-512-2007

SITKA SALMON SHARES

1054 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-258-2000. 100 N. HAMILTON ST. (IN THE MADISON CHILDREN’S MUSEUM), 608-287-3982. 2685 RESEARCH PARK DR., FITCHBURG, 608-278-1111. 1920 PARMENTER ST., MIDDLETON, 831-7777.

Community-supported fishery in which customers purchase a share and receive a box of Alaskan-caught fish delivered to their home. sitkasalmonshares.com

Pizza by the pie or slice. Long list of toppings, including Fountain Prairie ground beef, pine nuts, and more. Also salads, and pastas.$5-$23. theromancandle.com

Full pub menu includes appetizers, sandwiches, burgers, soups, salads and diner entrees including filet mignon, ribeye, salmon, fish fry and pasta.$5-$26.fluno.com/study-pub.php

SALVATORE’S TOMATO PIES

912 E. JOHNSON ST., 608-238-6040. 503 W. MAIN ST., SUN PRAIRIE, 608-318-1761.

SMITTY’S STUDY PUB (IN THE FLUNO CENTER) 601 UNIVERSITY AVE., 608-441-7117.

SMOKY JON’S NO. 1 BBQ

Tomato pies in the Trenton, N.J., immigrant tradition: cheese first, then toppings, then sauce. Watch for specials, including a fig and bacon version that’s gained a wide following. Commitment to locally sourced ingredients. $7-$24. salvatorestomatopies.com/johnson

SARDINE

2310 PACKERS AVE., 608-249-7427.

Eat in the small, cabin-style dining room or take your ribs to-go from Madison’s longstanding home-grown woodsmoked barbecue. The sauce is brick red, sweet-tart with a subtle burn. While there are ribs and slabs and shoulders aplenty, don’t overlook the jumbo sandwich platters, especially the fine beef brisket. $9-$23.smokyjons.com

SOFRA FAMILY BISTRO

617 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-441-1600.

Lakeside dining in the Machinery Row complex. Start with oysters on the half shell and don’t hold back. Duck confit, fish, steak frites are all thoughtfully done. Sunday brunch is also a special treat here as is the happy hour. $6-$28. sardinemadison.com

SECOND SALEM

111 W. WHITEWATER ST.,WHITEWATER, 262-473-2920

Small brewery and restaurant with sandwiches and burgers and ridiculously large homemade pretzels. They all pair easily with the house beers. $4-$15. secondsalem.com

7457 ELMWOOD AVE., MIDDLETON, 608-836-6614.

The former Bavaria Cafe gets a Mediterranean makeover, with the same breakfasts and lunches, but with a new dinner menu featuring Albanian cuisine. $6-$25. sofrabistro.com

SOHO GOURMET CUISINES

2990 CAHILL MAIN, FITCHBURG, 608-960-4011.

Fusion-style dumplings and dipping sauces,salads, excellent rice plates. Also runs a Capitol Square food cart. $6-$11. uwsoho.com

STALZY’S DELI

2701 ATWOOD AVE, 608-256-2544.

mple a S & r u o T n’s at Madiso y r 1st Distille are FREE YS 5-10PM THURSDA

Brooklyn should be so lucky! Terrific New York-style deli with housemade corned beef, great pastrami and roast beef sandwiches, potato pancakes, burgers, melts and lox with bialys.Breakfasts served all day. All breads baked from scratch, too. $5-$17. stalzysdeli.com

SUJEO

10 N. LIVINGSTON ST. (IN THE CONSTELLATION),608-630-9400.

A huge menu spanning much of Asia, but largely centered on Korea and Southeast Asia, where dishes roll out with meticulous care from chef Tory Miller. Noodle dishes, bao, hot pot and ssäm (wraps); craft cocktails. $6-$18. sujeomadison.com

D HANDMA SPIRITS!

SUSHI MURAMOTO

546 N. MIDVALE BLVD., 608-441-1090.

Fresh nigiri sushi, sushi rolls, sushi bar and other modern Japanese food. Asian-inspired cocktails. $6-$25. muramoto.biz

TAIGU

7610 ELMWOOD AVE., MIDDLETON, 608-831-3458

@ S ONLINE ILY TOUR OM BOOK DA .C Y A B YAHARA 3 , WI 5371 MADISON , Y A W Y KINGSLE

There are two menus, American-Chinese and “traditional.” American-Chinese fans should be pleased with standards here; they stand apart from their cornstarch-laden counterparts at other takeout spots. But the Chinese menu is where it’s at, with Shanzi-style dishes and housemade knife-cut noodle dishes the standout. $4-$16. taiguchineserestaurant.com 1900 CAYUGA ST., MIDDLETON, 608-203-8866

Upscale dining room. Fine tempura and sushi. Beautiful bento box lunches, too. $5-$31. takara88.com 27 E. MAIN ST., 608-286-1548

Japanese-style gastropub with buns, noodle dishes, sushi, skewers, and a worth-splurging-on ponzu steak frites. $3-$24. tavernakaya.com New Yahara Bay Distillery/Event Center

Coming to Fitchburg, Fall 2016! ISTHMUS DINING 2016

Tacos, tortas, huaraches, sopes, and gorditas. House specialties include parrillada for four (tableside grill of traditional meats, and cactus), platillo mi rancho and platillo Guadalajara. $2-$15.lataqueriaguadalajara.com

TAQUERIA SABOR QUERETANO

4512 E. WASHINGTON AVE., 608-249-0877.

Tacos, gorditas, huaraches, tortas and gigantic burritos, with fillings to choose from a list of steak, chicken, chorizo, pastor, carnitas, tongue and tripe. Entrees include a tasty chicken milaneza and beef and seafood platters. Weekend specials include menudo, pozole and birria. Also operates a food cart. $3-$16. elsaborqueretano.com

TASTE OF INDIA

2623 MONROE ST., 608-218-9200.

Lunch buffet and full menu. In addition to the standard breads, there’s a keema nan (stuffed with lamb), peshawari nan (stuffed with raisins, nuts and coconut) and sundried tomato and cilantro nan. Large number of vegetarian dishes. $3-$18. tasteofindiamadison.com

TIP TOP TAVERN

601 NORTH ST., 608-241-5515.

Food and cocktails with a working-class twist. Check out the “Little Oscar,” upper-end fried bologna with yellow mustard and mayo on white — crusty and tangy, griddle-crisped with butter to a mouth-scraping crunch. Chicken fingers are tuned up nicely, and the green chile mac and cheese is popular. Solid beer list; house cocktails riff on existing classics. $3-$10. thetiptoptavern.com

TNT’S COFFEE AND CAFE

729 N. HIGH POINT RD., 608-831-2298.

Relaxing west-side coffeehouse. Beyond coffee fare, these folks have an interesting menu of breakfast sandwiches, 23 varieties of Belgian waffles, and breakfast burritos, plus sandwiches, wraps and salads. $2-$14. tntscafe.com

TORNADO STEAK HOUSE

Classic supper club atmosphere with top-notch steaks, pork tenderloin, venison, rabbit and seafood.$9-$49. tornadosteakhouse.com

TUSCANY MEDITERRANEAN GRILL

2969 CAHILL MAIN, FITCHBURG, 608-270-1684.

Elegant Tuscan cuisine, with plenty of salads, pizzas and pastas, but also a steakhouse-style menu. $6-$26. tuscanygrill-fitchburg.com

TUTTO PASTA TRATTORIA

305 STATE ST., 608-294-1000.

This is the place for pasta, with 40 varieties including conchiglie, penne, capellini, fettuccine, fusilli, rigatoni, with an excellent linguine alle vongole verace. $5-$21. facebook.com/ pages/tutto-pasta-state-street/190389501575

TAKARA 88

TAVERNAKAYA

TAQUERIA GUADALAJARA

1033 PARK ST. , 608- 250-1824.

116 S. HAMILTON ST., 608-256-3570.

SAMPLE ER FROM OV

3118

1318 S. MIDVALE BLVD., 608-709-1345.

UMAMI RAMEN AND DUMPLING BAR

923 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-819-6319.

Japanese ramen and Chinese dumplings, served in a converted house in the heart of Willy Street. The pork buns and the tonkotsu ramen are tops. Ramen, however, is dine-in only. Brunch weekends. Umami also operates a food cart. $4-$12. umamimadison.com

UNDERGROUND BUTCHER

811 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-338-1527.

Butcher shop with local meats, housemade charcuterie. The sandwich menu, served 11 am-3 pm, varies based on what is seasonally available. $7-$10. undergroundbutcher.com

UNIVERSITY CLUB

803 STATE ST., 608-262-5023.

Sandwiches and salads plus more substantial entrees like cinnamon grilled pork chop or pan-seared rainbow trout, with preference to local and regional food. Open to the public. $5-$14. uclub.wisc.edu

UW MEMORIAL UNION - DER RATHSKELLER 800 LANGDON ST., 608-265-3000.

A campus tradition with German murals of student life. Featuring quick-serve grilled specialties, Paul Bunyan burgers, Mexican entrees, soups, salads, sandwiches, and the Union’s famous fudge-bottom pie. Brats and burgers out on the terrace in good weather. $3-$7. union.wisc.edu/dine-rathskeller.htm

VINTAGE BREWING CO.

674 S. WHITNEY WAY, 608-204-2739.

Food centers on comfort standards. Good burgers; try the Blue Heaven. Brewing on site. $5-$14. vintagebrewingcompany.com

VINTAGE SPIRITS AND GRILL

529 UNIVERSITY AVE., 608-250-0700.

Sandwiches, salads, burgers, and beer. $5-$14. vintagemadison.com

VOM FASS

3248 UNIVERSITY AVE., 608-204-0700. 127 STATE ST., 608-819-6738.

Fine oils, vinegars, wines, spirits and gifts; samples and recipes on hand. VomFassUSA.com

WAYPOINT PUBLIC HOUSE

320 W. BROADWAY, 608-222-0224.

Sophisticated, wide-ranging tap list with lots of appetizers, also sandwiches, salads and brunch. The burgers, made with Knoche’s beef, are go-to’s, as is the pimento cheese appetizer. The brunch menu is substantial. The Waypoint patio is a fine place to sit on the Yahara with a burger and a beer. $4-$11. waypointpublichouse.com

WEARY TRAVELER FREEHOUSE

1201 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-442-6207.

Favorite neighborhood gathering place, home of “Bob’s Bad Breath Burger” (with garlic, onions and cream cheese), sandwiches and other world-cuisine-influenced entrees, like the West of the Andes sandwich. Excellent late-night menu. $8-$30. wearytravelerfreehouse.com

THE WIENER SHOP

447 W. GILMAN ST., 608-665-3782.

Clever add-ons for all-beef hot dogs, also available with locally made Bandung tempeh dogs; excellent corn tortillas can be subbed for a bun. The only side dish is tater tots at this friendly campus-area stop. Standouts include the Madison Shop dog, the Asianinflected Vancouver dog and the Seattle. Weekly specials. $3-$6. wiener-shop.com

WILLY STREET CO-OP

1221 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-251-6776. 6825 UNIVERSITY AVE., MIDDLETON, 608-284-7800.

The deli has to-go entrees like the spicy kung pao tofu, eggless egg salad and sides like the emerald sesame kale. Veggie and vegan entrees and sides; hot entrees daily; salad bar for fresh organic salads; juice bar. willystreet.coop

TICKETS ON SALE NOW

WILLY TY’S

836 GROVE ST., 608-318-1057.

Specialties are grilled cheese sandwiches and a cheese-stuffed burger that Minnesotans might know as a Jucy Lucy. Good brisket sandwich, too, and look for unexpected touches like a celery root and apple slaw. French fries and dipping sauces are also a trademark.$6-$25. willietys.com

WISCONSIN BREWING CO. 1079 AMERICAN WAY, VERONA, 608-848-1079.

Taproom at the craft brewery. Tours are available. wisconsinbrewingcompany.com

WISCONSIN BREWING TAP HAUS 107 STATE ST., 608-310-1010.

A downtown pub featuring taps from Wisconsin Brewing of Verona, including regular brews, seasonals and limited runs. Menu focuses on sandwiches and burgers, fries and beer-battered appetizers. $8-$17. wisconsintaphaus.com

THE WISE

1501 MONROE ST. (IN THE HOTELRED), 608-819-8230.

Tapas-inspired small plates with a Wisconsin/Spanish bent. The chicken-andwaffles plate is a favorite. More traditional game day fare of brats and wings, too. $4-$25. hotelred.com/eat-drink/the-wise

WOLLERSHEIM WINERY

2016

7876 HWY. 188, PRAIRIE DU SAC, 608-643-6515.

Historic winery with tours and tastings yearround. Wine garden and wine shop with wine accessories available. wollersheim.com

YAHARA BAY DISTILLERS

3118 KINGSLEY WAY, 608-275-1050.

Produces 16 different hand-crafted spirits using Wisconsin ingredients. Samples and tours Thursdays 5-10 pm; other events and tours, too.yaharabay.com

SUNDAY, MAY 2 2 2-6PM

ZUZU CAFE

1336 DRAKE ST., 608-260-9898.

Cafe near the zoo, with breakfasts, sandwiches, side salads and special kids meals, with an emphasis on healthy ingredients including options for soy and/or organic milk. $5-$8. thezuzucafe.com h

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Experience Chef Joe Heppe’s modern Midwestern 'ZRGTKGPEG OQFGTP #OGTKECP EWKUKPG YKVJ cuisine at The Edgewater.

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