Isthmus Dining 2017 by Isthmus

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Fresh. Local. Organic. Yours! Everyone Welcome! 2

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www.willystreet.coop

CELEBRATING 100 YEARS of bringing local foods to your table.

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ISTHMUS DINING 2017

CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN CUISINE Jeff Haupt P U B L I S HE R Craig Bartlett A S S O C I AT E P U B L I S HE R Judith Davidoff E D I T O R Enjoyed in an upscale, yet casual environment, our classic grill items and seasonal favorites include: • Our hand-cut Wood-Fyred Steaks • Our fresh Seafood selections, Rotisserie Chicken • Private dining and catering options available

Arbor Gate Towers | 2601 W. Beltline Hwy. | 608.273.3973 DELIVERY | www.bonfyregrille.net

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Linda Falkenstein, I S T HM U S D ININ G E D I T O R Michana Buchman A S S O C I AT E E D I T O R Bob Koch C A L E ND A R E D I T O R Carolyn Fath A R T D IR E C T O R Todd Hubler, David Michael Miller, Tommy Washbush S TA F F A R T I S T S Todd Hubler A D V E R T I S IN G P R O D U C T IO N M A N A G E R Chad Hopper A D V E R T I S IN G M A N A G E R Laura Miller A D V E R T I S IN G A S S I S TA N T

When you’re thirsty for something new Tues-Wed

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Lindsey Bushart, Rebecca Jaworski A D V E R T I S IN G R E P R E S E N TAT I V E S Chris Winterhack M A R K E T IN G D IR E C T O R Tim Henrekin C IR C U L AT IO N M A N A G E R Jeri Casper W E B A N A LY S T Thom Jones SY S T E M S M A N A G E R

2105 Sherman Ave. (608) 441-2002 banzomadison.com 1511 Williamson St. 608-441-0012 banzomadison.com Mon-Sat 11am-9pm

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1511 Williamson St. 608-441-0012 banzomadison.com

674 South whitney waY Madison,wi open Mon-Sun :11am -bar close www.vintagebrewingco.com

ISTHMUS DINING 2017

C O N T R IB U T O R S : Frédéric Bouché, Dylan Brogan, Catherine Capellaro, Erin Clune, Jentri Colello, Amelia Cook Fontella, Linda Falkenstein, Carolyn Fath, Allison Geyer, Chris Hynes, AJ Martinsson, Paulius Musteikis, Kyle Nabilcy, Adam Powell, Greg Puglese, Joe Rocco, Gretchen Roehrs, Beth Skogan, Sharon Vanorny, Candice Wagener, Ryan Wisniewski, Laura Zastrow

SMITTY’S STUDY PUB

CONTENTS

Brews with a View

Open Daily 4:30 – 11:00 pm

THE BAR BURGER PROJECT Eleven burgers that rise above the indifferent, yet without pretension. BY KYLE NABILCY PAGE 6

THERE’S A CART FOR THAT Good Food, the Ugly Apple, Ladonia Cafe, Cali Fresh and Common Pasta offer something fresh. BY DYLAN BROGAN PAGE 12

FROM ANCIENT GRAINS TO FANCY DOUGHNUTS

EVERY EXPERIENCE, EVERY DETAIL, EVERY DAY

Where you can find the latest food trends in Madison kitchens. BY ALLISON GEYER PAGE 16

WHERE TO RAMEN? We break down the specialties at six Madison noodle emporiums. PAGE 20

12 MONTHS OF MEALS Where Madison has been eating and drinking. PAGE 22

FOOD STOP “MUSTS”

No longer the best kept secret in Madison.

A handy itinerary for newcomers and travelers visiting Madison. BY LINDA FALKENSTEIN PAGE 32

RESTAURANT INDEX PAGE 36

ON THE COVER: Photo of ramen from Morris Ramen by

LAURA ZASTROW .

ISTHMUS DINING 2017

THE BAR BURGER PROJECT

A SURVEY OF MADISONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MODEST HAMBURGER HEROES BY K YLE NABILCY

ISTHMUS DINING 2017

ILLUSTR ATION BY GREG PUGLESE

IT’S A SIGN OF MADISON’S food awareness that where to find the best bar burger is a frequent conversation starter. Good bars aren’t just for their respective neighborhoods — people will travel across the city for the right bar and a worthy bite to eat. Madison’s most well-known bar burger, both to locals and visitors, is likely the Plazaburger. THE PLAZA TAVERN takes a modest patty and bun (and pickle slices on the side, of course) and by grace of both the classic Wisco surroundings and a dollop of enigmatic Plaza sauce, turns it into a classic bar burger. The brick burger at the VILLAGE BAR is similarly well known. Brick cheese doesn’t show up on any other burgers. The cheapo paper plate it’s served on brooks no pretension. The brick burger is required reading for Madison burger literacy. (Speaking of burger literacy, American burger historian George Motz featured the Village’s brick burger on his Burger Land series for Travel Channel in 2012 and included the Plazaburger in his 2011 book, Hamburger America.) Neither of these burgers are particularly large. But there’s a crowd of other Madison bar burgers that get downright beefy. I’m talking big burgers. Irresponsibly big burgers. Greasy, messy, pleasure-center-of-your-brainsatisfying burgers. The BLUE MOON BAR AND GRILL’s Doug Brown credits a couple factors to the Blue Moon burger’s success. One, a custom blend of higher-fat Knoche’s ground beef — “a special blend we came up with about 20 years ago,” he says — that’s delivered fresh five to six days a week. Two, a flat-top grill to keep the patty from losing all its juicy goodness through grill grates. Three, the technique. “Sear it, flip it once and cook to temp,” he says. The result is a hefty, juicy, minimally seasoned burger that can occasionally be a handful to fit in even the hungriest mouth. One of the saddest food days I ever had was when I stopped at the Blue Moon and the grill was down for the day due to malfunction. Of course, the Blue Moon isn’t alone in using a flat top. PLAYERS SPORTS BAR in Schenk’s Corners has one too. Players offers a lot of burger variations with complex recipes, including weekly specials, but the basic bacon cheeseburger is nothing to sniff at either. There’s plenty of cheese, and it looked like the bacon might even be deep-fried. The burger’s interior was perfectly pink, just how I ordered it. No burger, not by a country mile, was as physically imposing as the one-pound specimen on offer at the

Quality Food and Service Since 1996 MADISON 1849 Northport Dr. 608-241-1144 FITCHBURG 2949 Triverton Pike Dr. 608-278-7800 MIDDLETON 1109 Fourier Dr. 608-826-0555

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Garlic blue cheese is an apropos topping for the Blue Moon burger.

LAURA ZASTROW

ISTHMUS DINING 2017

EAGLE CREST out east of town on County T. The nest of very crispy bacon on top was more than any other bar cranked out, but for as massive, juicy and irregularly shaped as the patty was, it never fell apart. Never got messy. I didn’t have room in my mouth to form questions about what the Eagle Crest crew is proud of, but the burger’s size and seasoning speak for themselves. The regulars at CHICKEN LIPS outside Sun Prairie will tell you plenty about the bacon cheeseburger there. When my wife ordered one (while I put in my order for the famous wings), they told her she made the better move. While I had no complaints about my wings, the burger ( juicy patty, crispy bacon, sturdy bun) was indeed worth coming back for. At BROTHERS THREE , I chatted a bit with one of the wonderful waitresses before being referred to Rick, standing in cook’s whites, near the kitchen. He never introduced himself as Rick Sawyer, the owner of the place, but that’s who he was. He said he’s proud of their fresh beef, the Gardner’s buns “from right up the street,” and the thick, double-smoked bacon. I can attest to all of that and to the burger’s size. Brothers Three is one of those enduring secrets of the Madison burger scene, and is maybe my favorite bar in which to order a burger. While Brothers Three feels a little like your grandparents’ basement, the PARADISE is an old Wisconsin bar. It’s dark. There are daub-and-wattle walls. And there are shingles on the inside of

the building (as decoration?). The officially named Paradise burger doesn’t have a special sauce or anything, it just includes bacon and all the veggies by default. That bacon is excellent, worth the add-on, and the burger has nice jaggly edges that pick up char from the grill. Easily the most no-nonsense burger came from the CARIBOU . ’Bou burgers are classics in Madison. Even though the bartender was working alone at 10:30 at night, she still turned out three orders like clockwork before the grill shut off at 11. This is bun-burger-cheese territory; there are pickle slices on the side, which I recommend adding. Ketchup and mustard optional. There were plenty of reasons to be worried — the overworked

Knoche’s beef stars in Oakcrest Tavern’s burger. CAROLYN FATH

bartender, the patties that looked like they might stick to the grill, and a quick squish with a spatula before plating — but this was pure bar burger goodness. Certainly, not every bar I visited had guys as chatty as the Blue Moon, Players or Brothers

Fresh, Easy Meal Options Festival Foods is slicing and dicing all day to bring you Daily Market Meal choices. Choose ready-to-eat selections and Daily Deli Deals from our fantastic salad and hot food bar. See our meat department for One Step Prep entrées and special meal ideas brought to you by our Mealtime Mentors. Facebook “f ” Logo

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Three. Chip Cantwell, co-owner of the OAKCREST TAVERN , exclaimed more than once, “I’m not really the interviewing type, sorry!” But he did mention that the across-the-street proximity of Knoche’s butcher shop is a boon to the Oakcrest patty. The char-

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grilled flavor is pronounced here, and there are two sizes of patty available. Plus, soccer on the TV, if you’re into that. At the HARMONY BAR , my bacon cheeseburger came with a velvety blanket of melted American cheese and a nicely toasted bun, and it was one of the tidier burgers of the bunch. But line cook Lenny Johnson, bless his heart, looked like I was asking him to recite the last three State of the Union addresses from memory when I spoke with him. “Well, it’s nothing fancy,” he said of the Harmony burger. That was about all I got out of him, but it’s pretty accurate. If you want fancy, I submit that a bar burger is not what you should be ordering. Their simplicity is why they’re great.

Dine Downtown!

Stocking exceptional culinary products, So you can live deliciously!

The Kitchen Gallery 101 King St • 467-6544 Open Every Day KitchenGalleryMadison.com

A Little Luxury… Spending an evening sipping your favorite cocktail while gazing at the stars in good company.

Little Luxuries 230 State St • 255-0622 LittleLuxuriesMadison.com

Visit us and enjoy a fantastic, authentic Italian meal in a unique, casual & friendly environment!

Tutto Pasta 305 State St • 294-1000 Sun.-Thurs. 11am-8:30pm • Fri. & Sat. 11am-9:30pm If we are busy late,we stay open longer!

Two downtown locations! Voted Wisconsin’s Best Pizza by Food Network Magazine! Home of the world famous Mac n’ Cheese Pizza!

Locally owned and operated, Red Rock Saloon is Madison’s Award-Winning, authentic, regional BBQ and Country music!

Ian’s Pizza

Red Rock Saloon

319 N Frances St + 100 State St www.ianspizza.com

322 W Johnson St • 709-5200 RedRockMadison.com

Our Indian cuisine is diverse and authentic. From samosas, pakoras, to chicken tikka masala, and a range of vegetarian dishes. We serve everything with love.

Bringing together contemporary cooking and historic ambiance.

Amber Indian Cuisine

The University Club

6913 University Ave • 824-0324 AmberIndianMadison.com

803 State St • 262-5023 UClub.Wisc.edu

Downtown Madison Maps, Gift Certificates, Event Information and More at VisitDowntownMadison.com

ark easy downtown

Celebrating 45 Years of Award-winning Famous House-made Gyros

Parthenon Gyros 316 State St • 251-6311 ParthenonGyros.com Open Every Day 11am-3am

LINDA FALKENSTEIN

Bruised fruits taste great used in the cart’s signature apple fritters.

Laurel Burleson has taste andowner wasteand in Caption for Ugly Apple’s mind at the Uglyfritters. Apple.

UGLY APPLE

THERE’S A CART FOR THAT

FIVE MOBILE FOOD VENDORS FIND THEIR NICHES BY DYL AN BROGAN

U.S. SUPREME COURT JUSTICE Louis Brandeis once described states as the nation’s “laboratories of democracy” for driving innovation on social and economic policy. The same could be said about the impact of mobile vendors on Madison’s food scene. Food carts are operated by entrepreneurs looking to carve out a niche in a notoriously difficult industry. With more carts making their way to the streets each year, vendors need to creatively distinguish themselves in a crowded field. Quality ingredients, healthy entrees, inspiration from regional cuisines and local sourcing set these five carts apart. 12

ISTHMUS DINING 2017

LOCAL PRODUCE Laurel Burleson opened UGLY APPLE last fall as most carts were heading into winter hibernation. She specializes in breakfast, serving apple fritters, oatmeal, muffins, biscuit sandwiches and market frittatas, which change each week

depending on what local produce is available. As spring vegetables start to trickle in from local farms, the menu will diversify. Burleson is committed to sourcing produce that tastes good but is on its way to the compost heap only because it lacks aesthetic appeal. “I still

CAROLYN FATH PHOTOS

Daniel and Leticia Hernandez do Mexican the Cali way with their shrimp taco (above).

get some strange looks from farmers when I ask, ‘Hey, do you have anything you don’t want to sell? Will you sell it to me?” says Burleson. “Lately, it’s been a lot of squash and rutabaga. But what I have heard from farmers is that when spring takes off, I should be able to buy some overstock vegetables, the stuff that’s left over at the end of the day and is probably not worth bringing back the next week.” This year, Ugly Apple is parked at the corner of

Wisconsin Avenue and Mifflin Street on Tuesday, Thursdays and Fridays 7-10 a.m.. On Wednesdays, the cart heads to the west side to vend at University Research Park.

A TOUCH OF CALIFORNIA Wife-and-husband team Leticia and Daniel Hernandez have settled into a nice groove with their cart, CALI FRESH , located on the Library Mall. This will be the third year Cali Fresh will

vend on campus. The couple took some time off this winter but were back in action by mid-February serving taqueria-style tacos, burritos, quesadillas and chalupas. Leticia says the cart’s cuisine is true to its name, blending traditional Mexican fare with California street food. “[The menu] comes from a family background in restaurants. For me, it was all authentic Mexican growing up,” says Leticia. “Daniel is

EDO Garden Japanese Restaurant

Authentic Japanese Menu & Vegetarian Cuisine Hibachi grill Hand rolled sushi & sashimi bar Private tea rooms Wedding and rehearsal dinners Private and holiday parties

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ISTHMUS DINING 2017

COMMON PASTA

Yes, this is homemade pasta. It’s headed to delicious bowls at Common Pasta, served up by co-owner Brian Baur (right).

from California. He used to have a job where he’d travel up and down the state. So there’s definitely inspiration from all these little places he visited on the road.” California natives seem to recognize the Golden State’s influence on Cali Fresh’s menu — it’s unique among Madison’s Mexican carts in its daily offering of a shrimp taco (its best seller) and shrimp quesadilla. It also offers a vegan taco based on roasted cauliflower. Leticia says they have quite a few regulars who keep coming back for a reminder of home. “When we first started selling at Library Mall, it was a shock just how many students were from California,” says Leticia.

LINDA FALKENSTEIN

HOUSEMADE PASTA One food cart that braved it through most of the winter was COMMON PASTA . Chef-owners Brian Baur and Thomas Durbin say they were pleasantly surprised that business turned out to be just as brisk as the weather. Common Pasta has been vending on campus, 1025 W. Johnson St., since it opened last fall. The cart’s spicy mac and cheese has proved popular no matter the season. “We start cooking at six in the morning, extrude all of our pasta off-site, bake fresh bread and make the sauces every morning,” says Baur. “It’s always been important to us that we don’t cut corners. We prepare each pasta to order in a pan just as we would

GOOD FOOD PHOTOS

in a restaurant. I’m pretty sure we are the only food cart with a sixburner stove.” In mid-April, Common Pasta will join the crowd of carts on Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard. There, downtown lunch-goers can expect to see short rib ragu, pesto (made with basil and kale), and mac and cheese, as well as rotating specials. Last month, the cart served lumache pasta with smoked tomato sauce, parmigiano reggiano and spicy Italian sausage. Another recent special was spaghetti and meatballs. “We’re trying to make the best-quality pasta you can get for eight dollars in the city,” says Baur. “I think we’re doing it.”

eer b t craf ar e y all

A sea salt caramel — also made fresh daily by Baur and Durbin — is complimentary with every dish.

CARBS, CRUSHED Serving the healthiest food possible has been Melanie Nelson’s mission since opening GOOD FOOD in 2010. It turned out to be a winning strategy, enough to warrant the opening of a second cart, Good Food II in 2014. This season, Nelson is taking her healthy cuisine to a new level. “I’ve been learning about the metabolic disasters that can result from too much sugar. And pretty much everyone is eating too much sugar,” says Nelson. “I was seeing sugar everywhere I

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LADONIA CAFE PHOTOS

Amie Swanson of Ladonia Cafe (left) focuses on fresh flavors, with her roasted sweet potato tamales, pinto beans, organic brown rice and fresh housemade salsa.

Melanie Nelson (left) focuses on a good-for-you menu at the two Good Food carts. Thai tacos (above) come wrapped in lettuce.

looked. The dried cranberries, the candied walnuts, the peanut sauce, even the balsamic vinaigrette had honey in it. I couldn’t do it anymore. So I decided to revamp the whole menu to go low carb.” The new menu still has six items that can be served as a salad or in a wheat flour tortilla wrap. Low-carb versions of old favorites like the Caesar Supreme and Lunchtime in Albuquerque are on the menu. New additions include a citrus-avocado-kale mix that features chopped pink grapefruit and oranges tossed with kale, diced avocado, pickled red onions, salted sunflower seeds, crumbled feta and citrus vinaigrette. The option of adding grilled chicken or tofu is also still available.

“We took away all the honey. All the frozen orange juice concentrate. All the added sugar. The idea is to make everything 30 net carbs or less. A lot of the items are much less than that,” says Nelson. “We still use some fruit and I’ve started using stevia as a sweetener.” Nelson has also introduced a new method of delivery for her entree salads: lettuce tacos (it’s built like a tortilla wrap, only the salad is rolled in a lettuce leaf). Good Food I cart is staying at its spot in front of Walgreens on East Main Street this year. Good Food II will return to the Library Mall. In April, Nelson’s new brickand-mortar restaurant — Good Food Low Carb Cafe — is set to open at 4674 Cottage Grove Road.

ALTERNATIVE PROTEINS LADONIA CAFE ’s Amie Swanson doesn’t plan on changing her menu much this season. Ladonia will continue to serve staples like the tamale platter, BLT sandwich (made with meat-free, tempeh “bacon”) and quinoa salad. All items sold at the cart are vegan, and most are gluten free. But Swanson doesn’t make a big deal out of it. “Shh....I’m a secret vegan,” says Swanson. “Over 80 percent of my customers aren’t vegan or even vegetarian.” But Swanson says her customers don’t care if her food happens to be animal-free; they come back because the food is “fresh, tastes great and is satisfying.”

“I try to balance all the meals I put out with some protein,” says Swanson. “I’ve had some roasted vegetable sandwiches that taste good, but afterwards I was still hungry. That’s because it didn’t have a protein.” Swanson offers occasional specials. She’s also developing a new salad that she hopes will be on the regular menu soon. Street construction on the Capitol Square starting in April will temporarily relocate some food carts to nearby downtown locations. The Ladonia Cafe food cart, usually in front of 1 E. Main St., will move in front of the Madison Municipal Building until construction is complete in mid-summer. h

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FROM ANCIENT GRAINS TO FANCY DOUGHNUTS

MADISON RESTAURANTS EMBRACE NATIONAL TRENDS BY ALLISON GEYER

ILLUSTR ATION BY GRETCHEN ROEHRS

HERE IN THE MIDWEST, we’ve historically been just a bit slower on the uptake when it comes to embracing new food trends. Sure, we can boast that we “technically” invented farm-to-table, and that our grandmas have been pickling, canning and composting since the Great Depression, but let’s face it — it usually takes a few years before the flashy new culinary fads dreamed up by the coastal elites really take root here in flyover country. Sad! That may sound self-deprecatory, but I’d argue it’s actually a good thing. You know how you’re never supposed to buy a car in its first model year? One might say the same thing about these fashionable foods whose moment in the spotlight is (sometimes literally) just a flash in the pan. And while some might lament the fact that Madisonians don’t have a local option for unicorn rainbow bagels, at least we didn’t waste $40 on a single black market cronut. And by the time national trends start showing up in Madison, we can be sure they’re properly vetted and have some staying power. Still, with Madison’s restaurant scene booming and trend-conscious millennials driving demand, many of the newer spots in town have been incorporating the very latest in ingredients, cooking and serving styles.

ISTHMUS DINING 2017

Here are a few of our favorites, and where to find them.

STUFF IN BOWLS The humble serving vessel is having a major moment, thanks largely to the combined forces of Instagram, Pinterest and a renewed focus on simple, healthy eating. A picture-perfect bowl of artfully arranged ingredients is bound to garner “likes” on social media as well as restaurant menus. In Madison, fast-casual spots like FORAGE KITCHEN on State Street offer made-to-order grain bowls featuring of-the-moment ingredients like black rice, quinoa, roasted root vegetables and power greens. BOWL OF HEAVEN , a California-based chain with a location in Hilldale Mall, focuses on the sweet side of the flavor spectrum, serving up chic and colorful “superfruit” bowls topped with stuff like low-carb granola, hemp flaxseed

and coconut. Higher-end places are getting in on this trend, too.

FIELD TABLE , the newer farm-totable spot on the Capitol Square, offers more refined ingredients like charred salmon, maitake mushrooms, sea vegetables, freekeh (the “it” grain these days), whipped sweet potato, pepitas and lentils. On Monroe Street there’s EVERLY, which serves a California-inspired grain bowl for lunch, dinner and weekend brunch that features a dainty spread of avocado slices, kale, sprouted lentils, quinoa, toasted oats, cashews and a sunny-side-up egg. While some stubborn diners might scoff at paying upwards of $12 for a bowl of hippie health food, here’s hoping that this fad continues to disrupt the traditional Western diet, for the sake of our planet and our waistlines.

FAT IS BACK!

EVERYTHING ON TOAST

Anyone who lived through the culinary dark ages known as the fatfree craze of the 1990s will be glad to see that the stigma surrounding fats is starting to fade. A slew of studies in recent years have shown that saturated fat is healthier than processed carbohydrates. People are eating butter again — McDonald’s even swapped out margarine in favor of the real stuff on its Egg McMuffins last year. It’s only fitting that local chefs have a fancy, artisanal take on this particular fad. Duck fat fries have been popping up at restaurants all over the city — RARE STEAKHOUSE , A PIG IN A FUR COAT, THE MADISON BLIND, HERITAGE TAVERN . Rich, luxurious and savory, duck fat is prized for its depth of flavor and has a chemical composition closer to olive oil than other animal fats.

For some, the sudden rise of “things on toast” (particularly avocado) being served in restaurants might be baffling. Why order something you can easily (and cheaply) make at home? Made famous in part by the endorsement of “lifestyle guru” Gwyneth Paltrow, the trend is right in line with the clean-eating movement (and it also looks great on Instagram). In Madison, the aforementioned Everly takes this trend to the max with its truly decadent offerings, which include mushroom with bone marrow butter, whitefish salad with pickled vegetables, and (of course) avocado with chickpea puree and roasted red peppers.

BLACK LOCUST CAFE on East Washington Avenue (formerly A-OK) offers some fancy toasts too — smoked ham with fried egg, gruyere, dijon and frisee; whipped

Toast has outgrown its spot at breakfast. Everly tops it with whitefish salad and pickled veggies.

CHRIS HYNES 18

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cottage cheese with stone fruit pepper jam, honey and tarragon; avocado with piquillo pepper, red onion and lime marmalade.

BASSETT STREET BRUNCH CLUB , on the ground floor of the campus Hampton Inn, does a classic avocado toast with black bean salsa and queso fresco plus a sweet whipped ricotta toast with dried apricots, mint, walnut and honey. At CRESCENDO, an espresso bar and music cafe on Monroe Street, the toasts are simple, delicious and budgetpriced — avocado with salt, pepper and olive oil; peanut butter with granola and maple syrup; honey butter with almonds; and plain old butter. And PORTER, the new coffee and sandwich shop at the former Milwaukee Road depot, has a breakfast-friendly version on a rustic rye, starring avocado and beauty heart radishes, with an n’duja add-on (speaking of trends, the spicy spreadable salami is made in town by Underground Meats).

MOVE OVER, MEAT Vegetable-centric cuisine has been on the upswing lately. Bolstered by the triple-threat trends of healthconscious eating, local, seasonal produce and ditching carbs, it’s easier than ever for vegetarians to dine out at local restaurants. At Everly, you can easily make a meal from the vegetable small plates — beets, artichokes, eggplant, squash, brussels sprouts — even though they’re billed as side dishes. GRAFT, a Midwestern-inspired small plates spot on Capitol Square, also does wonderful things with brussels sprouts and beets — and could even provide a wine pairing to match. FRESHII , a fast-casual place on Gammon Road, specializes in ultra-healthy wraps, salads and burritos, with the option to add tofu or falafel as a protein. And the veggie trend is poised to continue: GOOD FOOD , the

popular Capitol Square and Library Mall food cart, is opening Wisconsin’s first low-carb cafe on Cottage Grove Road this April. The menu will feature fresh, grain-free, veggie centric dishes, including cabbage wraps and spiralized vegetable pasta.

FANCY DOUGHNUTS Madison-area doughnut lovers’ prayers were answered in 2016, a year that brought our fair city not one, not two, but three fancy new doughnut shops. Over-thetop doughnuts have been around for over a decade (made famous by Voodoo Donuts of Portland, Oregon), but until recently Madison’s bakeries stayed pretty traditional with their approach to fried dough. FIELD TABLE , in addition to being an upscale restaurant, also does fabulous doughnuts in a variety of ever-changing but always wow-worthy flavors: matcha, miso, cardamom, brandy old fashioned, strawberry-jalapeño. Plus, its kitchen has become famous for its cretzel — a cross between a croissant and a pretzel, filled with cheese. DOUGH BABY BAKERY on State Street does similarly insane and wonderful things with pastries, specializing in cake, raised and filled doughnuts that are fried in coconut oil. It has novelty toppings (Cinnamon Toast Crunch, chocolate cookies) and novel takes on classics (cheesecake doughnut, anyone?), plus cute little doughnut holes, called dough babies. HURTS DONUT, a Missouribased chain that opened a location in Middleton in late 2016, is known for its absurdly large, candy-coated doughnuts and doughnut milkshakes. Best of all, it’s open 24 hours a day, and it offers “emergency” delivery via a repurposed ambulance. You’ll need it for your sugar coma.

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ISTHMUS DINING 2017

WHERE TO RAMEN?

THE SPECIALTIES AT MADISON’S NOODLE SPOTS ILLUSTR ATIONS BY AJ MARTINSSON

RAMEN KID

RAMEN STATION

corn butter ramen

sesame ramen

UMAMI

MORRIS RAMEN

“Morris” vegan ramen house ramen

SUJEO

TAVERNAKAYA

shio ramen

spicy miso ramen

MVP

mackerel pike skewers

pork buns

satsuma fries

General Tso’s Korean fried cauliflower, chicken fried chicken buns

spicy miso, corn and butter

limited

spicy bomb, flavorinfused egg

aguraage (thin, deepfried tofu)

burnt garlic oil, no build-yourkatsuobushi own add-ons salt

wood veneer tables, fastfood vibe

modestly modern

cozy old house

Midwestern contemporary izakaya

clean, contemporary, upbeat

New York-ish

no music

contemporary urban mix

hip-hop electro swing chill jazz

rock (barely discernible)

takoyaki BEST NON-RAMEN DISH

SPECIAL TOPPINGS

ATMOSPHERE

pop, hip-hop SOUNDTRACK 20

ISTHMUS DINING 2017

www.centuryhouseinc.com

Fine

dining unexpected design

everything for the modern home or office

3029 & 3420 university ave madison 608.233.4488 ISTHMUS DINING 2017

12 MONTHS OF MEALS WHERE MADISON HAS BEEN EATING AND DRINKING OVER THE LAST YEAR Field Tableâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s farm-to-fork ethos means giving beautiful vegetables a star turn.

PAULIUS MUSTEIKIS

Family-crafted wine & spirits in a historic setting overlooking the Wisconsin River.

ICYMI In case you missed it...the last year has seen tremendous changes in Madison dining. Multiple Indian restaurants launched; ramen bars exploded downtown; more brew pubs and multi-tapline bars opened. This is our recap of where Isthmus reviewers have been eating and drinking since the publication of our last Dining special section. With so many restaurants focusing on fresh ingredients and seasonal dishes, not every dish mentioned may be available at all times. Reviews are by Catherine Capellaro, Erin Clune, Linda Falkenstein, Amelia Cook Fontella, Allison Geyer, Kyle Nabilcy, Adam Powell and Candice Wagener.

PRAIRIE DU SAC, WISCONSIN wollersheim.com

1847 AT THE STAMM HOUSE

BANZO SHUK

A relaunch of the remodeled historic farmhouse, this time aimed more at a supper club audience, gets it right. The Stamm burger, topped with crispy cheese curds, is more than a gimmick; the trout and fried lake perch are impressive, too. Whitefish chowder and pierogi, hard to find elsewhere, are good shares for starting the meal. — K.N.

A spinoff of both the popular food carts and the first Banzo brick-and-mortar location, Banzo Shuk features lamb pitas and sweet potato falafel (batata) served with the yogurt-like sauce labneh. Plus, the same fresh-cut potato chips grace the inside of the traditional falafel sandwiches. Baklava, basbousa (coconutty cake, almost like cornbread in texture) and dessert pita round out a nice dessert menu. — K.N.

AMBER INDIAN

· DINNER · · WINE BAR · · Happy Hour · Open Daily at 4pm

1 N Webster St

Opening Spring 2017!

601 Junction Rd 608.664.9565 www.eno-vino.com 24

ISTHMUS DINING 2017

The focus is on the buffet. This one runs three tables deep, with a wide variety of dishes that change every day. Beef chapli kebab, chicken tikka masala and dal makhani are all good picks. — A.P.

BADGER TAVERN Bar food in the Wisconsin tradition, a bloody Mary with a beer back of Lake Louie Warped Speed Scotch Ale, or an Absolut and tonic with fresh-squeezed lime are correctly prepared and liberally dispensed. The Reuben is a towering stack of pastrami on marble rye; the 1/3-pound cheeseburger is a beast, with lightly seasoned fresh beef. — A.P.

BREAKWATER MONONA Revamped space along the Yahara River features an outdoor patio and the Breakwater Burger — Fox Heritage Farms beef topped with an outsized stack of bacon and onions and finished with aioli. — A.P.

BROCACH ON THE SQUARE This revamp of the pub retains some Irish classics, but favors a mainstream American bistro menu. The half of a roasted chicken features crisp skin with plenty of lemon and herbs, and juicy meat. The reuben is an excellent, meaty rendition of the classic. — K.N.

BURAKA This Ethiopian favorite has a beautiful new home on Williamson Street, with a spacious bar area and the same familiar dishes as served originally on State Street. The dorowot (chicken and carrot stew), alicha (cauliflower, carrots and potatoes) and the peanut stew come ladled on sour injera, and despite the presence of the spice blend berbere, most are quite mild. A few East African dishes are also on the menu. — A.C.F.

Left: Fuji Sushi & Hibachi creates sushi fantasy. Above: Everly’s shaved salads are a vegetarian’s dream come true. Right: Macha Tea Company uses tea in innovative baked goods. Below: La Kitchenette excels at rustic buckwheat crepes.

Fuji Sushi & Hibachi, Morris Ramen LAURA ZASTROW, Macha Tea Company RACHEL VERBICK, La Kitchenette FRÉDÉRICBOUCHÉ ISTHMUS DINING 2017

CAFE DOMESTIQUE Beans are by Intelligentsia, bakery by nearby Batch Bakehouse. The theme is bicycling, and you can catch up on the latest bike magazines while sipping your wellmade cortado. — L.F.

CAFE SOCIAL Colombian fair-trade beans make for a good cup, but the real draw here in the lobby of the Uncommon apartments is the local homemade lunch fare: empanadas, tamales, soups from Herbs, Spices and More in Arena, chicken pot pie and quiche Lorraine from the Paoli Bread and Brat Haus. — L.F.

DOUGH BABY High-end doughnuts with wild flavors like coconut cream pie are more than just gimmicks; many ingredients are organic, and the fruit is local and organic. Treats like a bourbon pecan pie bar with rich eggy custard and a caramel brownie will please sweets lovers. Watch for innovative evening pop-ups in the space. — K.N.

ESTACION INKA There are just 16 seats at five tables, but it’s worth grabbing one for the rotisserie chicken, sandwiches like the chicharron (lightly frizzled chunks of pork, with tangy salsa criolla) and the lomo saltado (chopped beef topped with french fries), as well as a small selection of sides. — K.N.

EVERLY Though it’s not a vegetarian restaurant, the menu is a vegetarian’s dream come true — there’s an entire section devoted to vegetables, and they’re so good you can make a meal out of them. The shaved vegetable dish is a standout, and the toasts are fun. Beef tartare and pan-roasted salmon are also standouts. — A.G.

FIELD TABLE A coffee shop/farm-to-table restaurant/wine and cocktail bar hybrid, Field Table excels at flavor pairings on both small plates and large. The “forest bowl” is appetizing and nutrient-rich; aburi-style salmon with soba noodles and an egg yolk also lets the ingredients speak for themselves. — A.G.

FIVE STAR KOREAN BBQ This spot has true Korean touches — but no barbecue (yet). Go for the bibimbap, the bulgogi and the ja jang myun. — A.C.F.

FUJI SUSHI & HIBACHI The hibachi room is good fun, making dining an event. The bento box also makes for a nice meal. Choose a meat (chicken, beef, salmon or shrimp), which can be prepared either teriyaki or tempura style. It comes alongside fried rice, a California roll and soup or salad. — C.W.

Top to bottom: Salvatore’s Tomato Pies-Sun Prairie PATRICK DEPULA, Brocach on the Square ERIC TADSEN, Rising Sons-Sauk Point Square RYAN WISNIEWSKI, Rockhound Brewery TRACY HARRIS, Miko Poké CAROLYN FATH, Banzo Shuk JENTRI COLELLO 26

ISTHMUS DINING 2017

GLAZE TERIYAKI Seattle-style teriyaki is the draw here, a grilled protein served on rice, with a sweet/spicy soy-based sauce and a side salad. Choose from chicken, steak, pork loin, salmon, tofu or wok-sautéed vegetables. Sides include steamed edamame, a lightly tart cucumber salad and addictive deep-fried shishito peppers. — L.F.

LA KITCHENETTE Savory crepes are made with buckwheat, which lends itself to a slightly denser crepe with crispier edges. Sweet crepes use the traditional flour-based recipe and are filled with either lemon curd, Nutella or chocolate sauce and topped with a generous dollop of real whipped cream. Other don’t-miss items: the french onion soup and the lavender crème brulee. — C.W.

LALO’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT Good chips, two spicy salsas, and favorites like nachos, flautas, chiles rellenos, enchiladas and milanesa done right. Breakfasts and specialties like pozole and menudo are available only on Saturday. — C.W.

7 days/week – 5:00PM-10:00PM Happy Hour – Starts @ 4:00PM Enjoy our Outdoor Patio!

AMERICAN EATERY | FULL BAR

THE LONE GIRL This new Waunakee brewpub features lots of seating and a lavish second-floor patio. The Off the Rails IPA and Sweet Baby Stout are very drinkable. Pair either with the Smash & Grab burger, a Big Mac clone. — K.N.

2 4 2 4 UN IVE RSITY AVE . • 60 8 .23 3 .87 7 8 HIGHL A N DCORN E RGRILL.COM

LUCILLE Tavern snacks, bar meals (like an of-the-moment burger), wood-fired and steel pan pizza and drinks from the folks who launched Merchant make this a popular spot from lunch to after midnight. — K.N.

LUPE’S TAQUERIA Build-your-own burrito spot takes a cue from Chipotle, but with more expansive options including tortas. The picadillo, a mixture of ground pork and ground beef, is a standout filling. — C.W.

MACHA TEA COMPANY Matcha and other teas; colorful bakery treats and Friday pop-up lunches with delicious food. The menu might be a selection of donburi (rice bowls), an impromptu dal vs. tom kha soup contest, or whatever inspires the kitchen on a given day. — C.C.

MIDTOWN PUB Truly a neighborhood place. The menu incorporates pub favorites, but there are some fun twists and unexpected items, too. The house chili features chicken, yet it’s not a white chili. Crunchy jalapeño poppers come with a side of grape habanero jam. A cut above the usual slider is the MTP Primer, with sliced prime rib topped with the Pub’s signature “horsey sauce” and served on mini pretzel buns. — C.W.

:22'),5( 527,66(5,( &22.,1* Reservations accepted!

608-729-4980

4323 East Towne Blvd | Madison

GRROLWWOHV FRP ISTHMUS DINING 2017

MIKO POKÉ The Hawaii Style is the dish most true to poke’s roots of Miko Poké’s six house combinations. Choose this ahi tuna-centric bowl or create your own. A vegan bowl called the Coco Curry is also a success, with tahini, coconut curry, edamame, avocado. — K.N.

MINI HOT POT The charming little spot specializes in a classic East Asian style of soup in which meats and vegetables are cooked, fondue style, in a simmering cauldron of broth. Diners cook on electric burners built right into the tabletops. It’s customizable — pick a protein (beef, pork, chicken, crab or a seafood medley), choose a broth base (there’s spicy Sichuan, coconut, Korean kimchi, mushroom and spicysour Thai), and choose add-ons from a well-appointed vegetable tray. — A.G.

MORRIS RAMEN Focused menu with four types of ramen, plus a rotating chef’s special ramen. The Morris ramen comes with chashu (slow-braised) pork belly, ajitama (marinated soft-boiled egg) and menma (fermented bamboo shoots), but diners can also add toppings. — A.G.

MY SISTER’S KITCHEN This relaunch of Middleton’s Three Sisters keeps the great breakfasts the homey restaurant was known for. Scrambles, french toast, “the Big Sister” eggs benedict all shine. There’s also homemade pie. — C.W.

OFF BROADWAY ALE HOUSE Start with a few rounds of beer and a collection of appetizers. The Green County meat and cheese board comes with heaping portions of braunschweiger and cubed cheese. French fries are outstanding: crispy, thin cut, delicately salted in the style of frites. Hot chicken wings come with gorgonzola-topped greens. The 24 taps are thoughtfully curated. — A.P.

OM FUSION Om transformed a blighted ex-Chinese buffet into a great Indian restaurant, with spices at the forefront. Lunch buffet as well as an expansive array of south Indian, IndoChinese and tandoori specialties, plus plenty of curries and rice dishes. — A.G.

PORTER The first step in an ambitious revamping of the luggage area of the old Milwaukee Road depot, this coffee and sandwich shop excels at sandwiches, especially panini. Look for special happy hours and dinners. — L.F.

RAMEN KID Look for the butter corn variant of the basic miso ramen, a wildly flavorful bowl with sweet, bready, funky notes that call to mind a big barleywine ale, or the shio ramen. — K.N.

Dough Baby CAROLYN FATH, Sugar River Pizza SUGAR RIVER PIZZA, Breakwater-Monona 28

ISTHMUS DINING 2017

Top to bottom: Glaze Teriyaki LAURA ZASTROW, The Thirsty Goat RYAN WISNIEWSKI, SHARON VANORNY

Amber Indian’s beef chapli kabab.

RYAN WISNIEWSKI

RAMEN STATION

ROCKHOUND BREWING

A couple of unusual ramen stylings include the gyuniku ramen: a spicy beef base oddly reminiscent of chili, which delivers a modest bump of heat without making things uncomfortable. A side menu of izakaya-style skewers is worth checking out as well, including some hefty shell-on shrimp. — K.N.

The signature pot pies are terrific, with a puff pastry top and plenty of chunks of meat; these pies don’t try to glide by on gravy. Yet even the gravy is good: creamy and peppery. Carrots, onions, celery, corn and potatoes enhance the filling rather than pad it. Chicken, beef and veggie are all good. Beers from Nate Warnke include Mosquito Bite IPA and Grinder coffee porter. — L.F.

RED Red’s move to more spacious quarters on West Washington was smart. New, inventive, non-sushi dishes include Wagyu beef tartare and brandy-cured foie gras, but all the classic sushi, sashimi and signature rolls are back, too. — A.G.

RISING SONS - SAUK POINT SQUARE A west-side location for the State Street Lao-Thai restaurant fills out the world cuisine in this strip mall. Soups, curries, and pad Thai are all good, but lovers of serious spice should try the pad pet basil. — C.W.

THE ROBIN ROOM

SALVATORE’S TOMATO PIES - SUN PRAIRIE The new space makes Sal’s a restaurant, not just a pizzeria. Pizzas remain inventive, with local toppings; new entrees include a homey spaghetti and meatballs, short rib ragu and a standout porchetta. — K.N.

STONE CREEK COFFEE Two pour-over methods and an Aeropress are available for the brewing of Stone Creek’s meticulously sourced beans. This is the first Madison location for the Milwaukee-based cafe chain. — L.F.

The relaxed yet bustling lounge sets a new standard for cocktails in town. Bartender Chad Vogel features top-notch versions of classics and a slate of house concoctions. — E.C.

ISTHMUS DINING 2017

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Madison • 223 N. Frances St • 608-251-2521 Middleton•1021 N. Gammon Rd.•608-833-6489 Sun Prairie • 315 E. Linnerud Dr • 608-837-4999

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Well-known for our pasta, homemade Italian dinners, pizza, steaks, and seafood, since 1968 425 N. Frances St. • 256-3186 • portabellarest.com

Paisan’s

Italian Restaurant

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One of Madison’s favorites for thin crust pizza, fresh pasta and trademark sandwiches

131 W. Wilson St. 257-3832 paisansrest.com

IMPERIAL GARDEN 2039 Allen Blvd., Middleton (608) 238-6445 www.imperialgarden.com Dine In

Carry Out

INDEPENDENTLY OWNED RESTAURANTS

611 N. Sherman Ave., Madison 608.663.5500

www.mannacafe.com

Live Local. Dine Local. Visit us at www.madisonoriginals.com to see a complete list of our members or to purchase gift certificates.

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At Field Table, the “Simple Salad.”

PAULIUS MUSTEIKIS

SUGAR RIVER PIZZA

TANDOORI HOUSE

Specialty pizzas with locally sourced ingredients include the Steak pizza, generously loaded with chunks of T-bone and Porterhouse steak, sautéed green peppers and mushrooms, caramelized onions and mozzarella cheese; and the Baked Potato, with a homemade ranch sauce as the base, topped with crispy waffle fries, diced red onions, bacon and cheddar cheese. The space in Verona is large, with two dining rooms and a long bar. — C.W.

The lunch buffet is distinguished by some excellent preparations: plump grilled shrimp with peppers; seekh kardhai (ground chicken with onion and garlic, finished in the oven); palak paneer (homemade cheese and stewed spinach). Dinners are enormous, so choose wisely. Chapli kababis Peshawari (minced beef kebabs) was the unexpected hero of the menu — truly spicy, with a complex, earthy kick and slow-burning heat. — A.P.

THE THIRSTY GOAT The Fitchburg sports pub specializes in smoked meats, flavored with a dry rub and served “naked” so diners can discern the deep flavor to the meat. The brisket or the baby back ribs are both good choices, as is the salmon. — L.F. h

www.madisonoriginals.com

ISTHMUS DINING 2017

PARCHED EAGLE

ALE ASYLUM

MONTYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BLUE PLATE DINER

BATCH BAKEHOUSE FOREQUARTER

MEDITERRANEAN CAFE

THE PLAZA TAVERN

SARDINE

BABCOCK HALL ICE CREAM

THE OLD FASHIONED HIMAL CHULI

TORNADO STEAKHOUSE PIZZA BRUTTA 32

GRAZE

FOOD-STOP “MUSTS”

AN ITINERARY FOR NEWCOMERS AND TRAVELERS... FROM THE OBVIOUS TO BEYOND BY LINDA FALKENSTEIN

ILLUSTR ATION BY JOE ROCCO

MADISON GARNERS PRAISE

for its farmers’ markets and forward-thinking food community. We have farm-to-table bistros and eateries that embrace a world’s worth of cuisines. Each year, the names of Madison chefs pop up on the nominations for the prestigious James Beard Awards. But even so, Madison doesn’t quite have the up-and-coming national food reputation for hot restaurants that cities like Asheville, North Carolina, and Portland, Maine, have. Is that our fault, or short-sightedness on the part of national foodie magazines? That’s one question. But ask yourself another: What’s more important — hot press or delicious food? Visitors seeking “the real Madison” might be looking for a bratwurst, really good fried cheese curds, craft beers and a Friday fish fry. They are right to want these things. But eating in Madison is about so much more. Take a trip around town.

The meat board at Forequarter. ERIC TADSEN

Farmers’ Market. Local farms and products are recognized on a big chalkboard at the rear of the modern, high-ceilinged space.

Graze’s grilled sirloin and brussels sprouts.

GRAZE While L’Etoile is the spot for fine dining in town (and this year is a semifinalist for “Outstanding Restaurant” in the James Beard competition), heading to its more relaxed neighbor, Graze, is less of a commitment. Diners are still assured of ingredients sourced “From Local Pastures” — and in most seasons of the year, from the Dane County

Graze’s beet and walnut burger puts all other veggie burgers — in fact, most beef-based burgers — to shame. It’s decadent and rich, even somewhat meaty, while retaining the earthy sweetness of beets. But the local Highland beef in the more traditional pub burger is also topnotch. A side of either the mixed greens or the frites are both wholly satisfying, but the cheese curds are a worthwhile upgrade. Graze’s menu has another side, featuring several Asian-inflected bowls that don’t disappoint. Try the Thai crispy rice or the bi bim bap for a global approach to the local pasture.

FOREQUARTER This neighborhood restaurant represents the more DIY, Brooklyn-inspired version of the local-sourcing ethos. Forequarter feels both inspirational and improvisational, and its menus might change daily. Man at the helm Jonny Hunter has been nominated for two James Beard best chef-Midwest awards. Indulge in what the kitchen does with seasonal veggies; even at the end of winter, a beet and bulgar risotto sparkles with the help of Meyer lemon. The charcuterie board shows off the old world cured meats this place is famous for. Or take advantage of the crispy cheeseburgers during happy hour. The craft cocktail menu, also seasonal, is inspired. ISTHMUS DINING 2017

TORNADO STEAKHOUSE The Tornado is the perfect blend of Madison’s restaurant past and its present. The building, long home to Crandall’s supper club, retains a rustic, knotty cedar frontier charm, but the sophisticated menu belies the retro-chic of the surroundings. Top-notch steaks are joined by rabbit and venison, duck and walleye. Or check out the latenight menu downstairs at the Corral Room, where you might indulge in a bacon blue cheese burger, the smoked muenster burger (both made from local Knoche’s beef) or the steak sandwich. Pairing cheese curds with the Tornado’s excellent cocktails is also an option.

The Old Fashioned distills the best of Wisconsin.

SARDINE Casual French bistro dining works here on the shore of Lake Monona (Sardine’s patio is a good spot to relax on a summer’s evening). During happy hour, East Coast oysters are half-price. They’re great, though hardly what comes to mind when you think of the Midwest. Wisconsin touches include Montchevre goat cheese from Belmont, Wisconsin, served warm with crostini, and toasts spread with chicken liver from Nami Moon Farm of Custer, Wisconsin, set off with Door County cherry compote. Frites and a beer here are just as good as a full dinner, but remember that the Sardine kitchen has a special touch with fish, so if you see Lake Superior whitefish on the menu, don’t pass it by.

THE OLD FASHIONED The Old Fashioned is no secret. Its contemporary interpretation of an old-style Wisconsin bar is in the end neither kitschy nor campy. The Old Fashioned has somehow embraced, transformed and improved every culinary cliché of the state of Wisconsin. Dining there is a chummy can’t-miss experience. The wide-ranging Wisconsin craft beer tap list may be daunting, but ask the 34

ISTHMUS DINING 2017

LAURA ZASTROW

bartender for recommendations (or a sample). The fish fry, the bratwurst, Wisconsin’s Best Wurst platter or the artisanal cheese plate — virtually anything you order is like a sampler plate of greater Wisconsin.

THE PLAZA TAVERN You might say that the Plaza is the real version of the bar that the Old Fashioned is designed to resemble. But it is still definitely a bar with food, not a restaurant. All you need is a Plazaburger with cheese, a Point and a trip to the foosball table. Not enamored of Point? Locals like Capital and Ale Asylum are also reliably on tap.

HIMAL CHULI A decade ago, Madison’s State Street was the place to find foods from around the world, cooked by newcomers to the United States. There are fewer businesses there now where this is still true, as more chains make their way to the campus area. Himal Chuli, however, remains, and how fortunate we are. This small, plainly decorated space even has a screen door that stays open in good weather,

eschewing air conditioning and pretension. This could be a small cafe somewhere in Nepal. The Himalyan/Nepalese restaurant features home cooking from Krishna and Bishnu Pradhan. Bishnu can often be seen in the small kitchen, ladling stews. The two daily tarkari (savory vegetable stews), which come with either rice, roti or dal (don’t skip the mild yet complexly satisfying dal), are never a bad choice, but the beautiful samosa, house momocha (vegetarian momos with a tomato cilantro sauce you will find yourself trying to replicate at home), tart kadi (onion dumplings) in yogurt sauce, and chili chicken — a hot and spicy dish that is served cold — are just the start of the revelatory dishes on the menu.

MEDITERRANEAN CAFE In a narrow train-car of a space, Faycal Belakhdar and a crowd of college-age assistants produce outstanding meals Monday through Saturday until 4:30 — that’s right, it’s either lunch or early early dinner if you want to eat here, but it’s well worth making the effort to come by before the doors close.

Rich chicken apricot pie with bechamel-yogurt topping and more than a hint of rosewater is one regularly appearing special not to miss; others, from African-inflected French dishes like ratatouille Provencale to Greek standards like moussaka, are just as good. Rockbottom bargains are the excellent soups, just $1.50, including a creamy, tart chicken avgolemono. Along with Himal Chuli, Med Cafe is one of the last outposts of an independent, multicultural campus restaurant scene more indicative of Montreal than the Midwest.

PIZZA BRUTTA While the most truly Madison of Madison pizzas may be the thin-crust pies at Buck’s Pizza, a no-frills takeout business that’s been in business since 1960, the most flavorful Italian-inspired pies are coming these days from the oven at Pizza Brutta. The rustic booths at the Monroe Street cubby speak to Pizza Brutta’s family-friendliness, but there’s nothing juvenile about the pizzas, Neapolitan-style pies with sauce made from crushed San Marzano tomatoes. Try the simple

Award winning brewery

Take a bag of Batch Bakehouse croissants to go.

with jam for flavor. Vegans are well served by the seitan hash and the tofu scramble, and those who are on gluten-free diets can find the GF-version of said scones.

ALE ASYLUM

CHRIS HYNES

but perfect margherita, with fresh bufala mozzarella, olive oil, sea salt and basil; or the rossoverde, with basil, crisped prosciutto and a ruffle of arugula. Flavor speaks louder than trends. A second location opened in Middleton Hills in 2016.

BABCOCK HALL ICE CREAM Before you head out to the Memorial Union Terrace to soak in the view of sailboats on Lake Mendota, drop by the Daily Scoop ice cream counter for a cone or dish of ice cream made right on the ag campus. Orange custard chocolate chip is a longtime fan favorite, made with milk, cream, sugar and egg custard. Ice cream is also sold at Union South. Or head to the source, Babcock Hall Dairy Store, for sundaes and floats made with the same ice cream. You may even catch sight of a cow.

distinctly Madison fare, including the vegetarian Reuben known as the Sheldon and the delectable Meatless Loaf of the Gods. Stop by before a show at the Barrymore Theatre, right across the street.

You can’t beat the selection at Batch, which ranges from the chewy, salty fougasse twists to familiar breads like challah to sweet coffee cakes studded with Door County cherries. Don’t leave without a vanilla morning bun or an orange swirl. Wait, don’t forget the ham and gruyere croissants. Leave with a bag of anything, really.

MEAT MONTY’S BLUE PLATE DINER Monty’s — built in a rehabbed gas station — still brings an impressive near-east-side vibe to a classic diner menu. Several vegetarian entrees have made the unofficial list of

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ON TAP

There’s plenty of great local beer being brewed, and taphouses abound, so it can be hard to know where to direct a visitor. But Ale Asylum is a natural choice for anyone heading to or from the airport (you can’t miss it), and at the source, visitors can find the “spawn series,” special onetime-only beers that are trying out different hops, malts and yeasts. The large sandwich and salad menu features a number of Madison-style touches, like the option for gluten-free buns, a barbecue tofu sandwich and a quinoa veggie burger. Tours ($5 includes a pint and a special sampling) take place Sundays on the hour, between noon and 5 p.m., and are limited to 15 people.

Ale Asylum is a big operation. Check out what a smaller beer maker, one step up from homebrewing, is producing locally. The modest Parched Eagle, a nanobrewery in the town of Westport, showcases the brews of Jim Goronson. Try a flight of the house beers on tap, hoping for Verily, a Belgian dubbel; Geronimo imperial stout; or the standout Crane Ale APA. You might even see some of the namesake cranes crossing Highway M heading for the nearby Jackson Landing natural area.

MEAT $75

half box contains 10 delivered right to your door in a pounds of meat

BOX $150

MEAT

Order at the counter and find yourself a sofa or a chair at the mix-and-match tables, either upstairs or downstairs, inside this charming old house. Wait for your buzzer to sound. Bakery fiends, take note — this is this is the place in Madison to order a sweet scone (lemon blueberry is a particular standout). Here, they’re more moist than traditional scones and there’s no need to augment them

is proud to present our very own

BOX

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half box contains 10 pounds of meat whole box contains 20 pounds of meat

the box includes: meat, recipes, and a link to a video featuring chef dan showing you how to prepare the contents. sign up by sending us an email at info@heritagetavern.com the box includes: meat, recipes, and a link to a video featuring chef dan showing you how to prepare the contents. sign up by sending us an email at info@heritagetavern.com you won’t regret it.

ISTHMUS DINING 2017

Toasts are tartines at La Kitchenette.

ISTHMUS

RESTAURANT INDEX 1847 AT THE STAMM HOUSE

Winners of the 2016 Isthmus Readers Poll feature the Mad Fave label

The poll takes place each June. Watch for it in Isthmus in print and online!

ISTHMUS DINING 2017

6625 CENTURY AVE., 608-203-9430.

A total facelift highlights the stunning beauty of the property. The small bar on the lower level remains, and there’s another large bar upstairs in the airy main dining room featuring a well-composed list of craft cocktails. Fresh and seasonal produce dominates — although don’t overlook a rotating daily special drawn from comfort foods like chicken and dumplings and beef stroganoff. The Friday fish fry is Lake Superior whitefish or cod. Upper floor accessible only via stairs. $10-$28. 1847stammhouse.com

A PIG IN A FUR COAT

940 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-316-3300.

It’s a prime spot for meat dishes, under chef Dan Bonanno’s guidance. The focus is on small plates: charcuterie, ravioli, pork belly, etc., but also large plates (veal, tripe, trout). Local beer list; craft cocktails. $11-$32. apiginafurcoat.com

ALCHEMY CAFE

1980 ATWOOD AVE., 608-204-7644.

Pub food including the house apple rum burger. Other worthy fare includes a sockeye BLT and desserts by Honey Bee Bakery and Liz Chapa. Vegetarian- and vegan-friendly, local sourcing, rotating craft beer selection. $5-$14. alchemycafe.net

FRÉDÉRIC BOUCHÉ

BABCOCK HALL DAIRY STORE 1605 LINDEN DR., 608-262-3045.

Babcock Hall ice cream by scoop or gallon, sundaes, real malts, plus breakfast sandwiches, grilled cheese sandwiches with Babcock cheese, soup and sandwich specials Monday through Friday. $2-$6. babcockhalldairystore.wisc.edu

BADGER TAVERN

1612 SEMINOLE HWY., 608-286-1450.

ALE ASYLUM

2002 PANKRATZ ST., 608-663-3926.

Taproom with spacious outdoor patio areas. A large selection of appetizers sandwiches, salads and flatbreads to accompany the beers. This is the place to come for pilot batches and one-offs. $5-$12. aleasylum.com

AMBER INDIAN CUISINE 6913 UNIVERSITY AVE.

Southern and Northern Indian food a specialty. Noon buffet. Large number of vegetarian dishes and a wide-ranging selection of goat dishes. $4-$17. amberindianmadison.com

Classic Wisconsin tap in an old house, with good cheese curds, burgers, Reuben, fries, and fish fry (of course) on Friday. A Bloody Mary with a beer back of Lake Louie Warped Speed Scotch Ale, or an Absolut and tonic with freshsqueezed lime might not impress the mixologists downtown, but here they’re correctly prepared and liberally dispensed. $4-$12.

BANZO

2105 SHERMAN AVE., 608-441-2002.

Criminally crispy fresh-made falafel, housemade hummus and baba ganoush, salads, homemade chips and specials. The schnitzel — seasoned fried chicken in a pita — is a near-perfect object. $5-$13. banzomadison.com

DIM SUM BANZO FOOD CART

LIBRARY W. MAIN AND S. CARROLL

Excellent crispy falafel, in sandwiches and plates; hamburger sliders and chicken at this megapopular food cart that is now two carts: Library Mall and a roving placement. $3-$10.

BANZO SHUK

1511 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-441-0012.

The Willy Street location for Banzo features a slightly different menu from the carts and Sherman Avenue location. You’ll find more kabobs, desserts, salads and also an interesting sweet potato falafel. $4-$14. banzomadison.com

BASSETT STREET BRUNCH CLUB 444 W. JOHNSON ST., 608-467-5051.

Brunch-all-day spot on the ground floor of the Hampton Inn. Fried chicken and biscuit, the shrimp and grits, or, for a stab at selfcontrol, the butternut and blue salad are all standouts from an indulgent menu. There’s a long list of hair-of-the-dog cocktails as well. $4-$16. brunchclubmadison.com

BATCH BAKEHOUSE

1402 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-257-1652.

There are a few eat-in tables and coffee. Options range from savory sourdough loaves, ciabatta and the rustic Provencal loaf called fougasse to sweet muffins, scones, plain and filled croissants, morning buns and rich coffee cakes. Don’t miss the orange roll, truly breakfast nirvana. $2-$10. batchbakehouse.com

BENVENUTO’S

2949 TRIVERTON PIKE DR., FITCHBURG, 608-278-7800. 1109 FOURIER DR., MIDDLETON, 608-826-0555. 1849 NORTHPORT DR., 608-241-1144.

Pasta, good wood-fired pizza, made-to-order calzone, plus chicken, fish, pork, seafood and even steak. Gluten-free options available. $8-$22. benvenutos.com

BETTY LOU CRUISES

5360 WESTPORT RD., 608-246-3138.

Would you, could you, on a boat? Dine or snack while taking in the scenery of Lake Mendota or Lake Monona. Pizza and beer cruises, a popular Sunday brunch with standout french toast and a Sunday dinner cruise, among others. $25-$43. bettyloucruises.com

BLACK LOCUST CAFE

829 E. WASHINGTON AVE., 608-237-1314.

Diner/coffeeshop/bar, replacing the departed A-OK; crepes, eggs & toast 8 am-3 pm; bowls and bings only 3 pm. $9-$5.

BLUE MOON BAR AND GRILL

2535 UNIVERSITY AVE., 608-233-0441.

American grill specializing in soups and specials made from scratch. Friday’s Manhattan seafood and New England clam chowder can’t be beat. 14 tap beers; 7 rotate. $5-$12. bluemoonbar.com

BONFYRE AMERICAN GRILLE

2601 W. BELTLINE HWY., 608-273-3973.

The centerpiece of the kitchen is the woodfired oven, with rotisserie chicken, Berkshire pork chops and steaks, with a variety of accompaniments. Seafood in flavorful, simple preparations. Gluten-free items are labeled. $6-$36. bonfyregrille.net

BOWL OF HEAVEN

717 MIDVALE COURT, 608-232-2233.

The star is açaí bowls and smoothies. Açaí bowls are more or less smoothies served in a bowl, composed of a blend of fruits like açaí berries, strawberries, pineapple, blueberries, banana, and even fresh kale and spinach, topped with organic hemp flax, granola and honey. Served icy cold, they’re better that way. Fresh juices, too, made to order. $3-$8. bowlofheaven.com

AND THEN SOME

BRASSERIE V

1923 MONROE ST., 608-255-8500.

Intimate Belgian-inflected spot with great food. Moules et frites and steak-frites are joined by fondue, sandwiches, salads and the popular “V” burger, Fountain Prairie beef topped with Muenster cheese and beer-battered onion straws. 26 taps strong in Belgian and European imports, $6-$25. brasseriev.com

BREAKWATER-MONONA 6308 METROPOLITAN LANE, MONONA, 608-416-5388.

Nice outdoor patio space overlooking the Yahara River, newly revamped. You can even pull right up in your boat. Hamburgers, sandwiches, salads and a handful of entrees (after 4 pm), including schnitzel, brats and salmon. $4-$25. facebook.com/ BreakwaterMonona

BROCACH IRISH PUB

7 W. MAIN ST., 608-255-2015. 1843 MONROE ST., 608-819-8653.

The menu is heavy on lunch, with only a handful of dishes unique to the dinner menu. The starters are good — opt for croquettes, or chowder. From the sandwiches, the reuben is an excellent, meaty rendition of the classic. $4-$22. brocach.com

BROTHERS THREE BAR AND GRILL 614 N. FAIR OAKS AVE., 608-244-6818.

Hidden gem in a former gas station with big breakfasts, burgers and sandwiches, Friday fish fry, homemade soups, desserts and more. $6-$25. madbrothersthree.com

BUCK’S PIZZA

219 COTTAGE GROVE RD., 608-222-8011. 5502 UNIVERSITY AVE., 608-238-9166.

Simple but satisfying thin-crust pizza for carryout. $5-$15. buckspizzamadison.com

BURAKA

1210 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-286-1448.

Easy-to-like Ethiopian comfort food. At the heart of Buraka’s menu are several stews, served with white rice or spread on a piece of injera, a sour Ethiopian flatbread. Entrees are often simple; the real treat is found in its flavorful spicy sauces. The dorowot (Ethiopian chicken stew), peanut stew, lentil salad and misirwot (a thick lentil stew with split peas and potatoes) remain favorites. Many vegetarian-friendly options. $5-$15. Buraka-Madison.com

RESTAURANT

CAFE DOMESTIQUE

1408 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-467-2021.

Bicycle-themed coffee house, with Intelligentsia beans, bakery from nearby Batch, and Peloton magazine to peruse. $2-$4.50. cafedomestiquemadison.com

518 Grand Canyon Dr • Madison, WI

608.826.9300 nanimadison.com

Open Daily 11AM –10PM

ISTHMUS DINING 2017

Cook your meal right at the table at Mini Hot Pot.

BETH SKOGAN

CAFE SOCIAL

CARIBOU TAVERN

Co-owner Omar Lopez sources beans from his sister’s farm and other coffee farms nearby in Quindio, Colombia; the beans are also roasted there. Food includes empanadas, tamales, soups, sandwiches and doughnuts from Greenbush Bakery. $1-$7. cafesocial.us

The burger is the thing to order, but there’s also chicken, brats, cheddarwurst, grilled summer sausage (hello!), grilled cheese and a fish sandwich. Appetizers are the familiar fried variety — onion rings and curds, plus poppers, clam strips and mini-corndogs. $3-$6.

CALI FRESH

CHICKEN LIPS

Cali Fresh serves taqueria-style tacos, burritos, quesadillas and chalupas with a choice of chicken, steak, chorizo/steak mix, veggie, or shrimp fillings. Chicken is white meat seasoned almost like a carne asada. Big spicing here comes from the three salsas — red, guacamole or a hot green tomatillo. Rice and beans as sides or in meal combos. $3-$8.

Bar standards like burgers done well, but the real draw here are the chicken wings, extra spicy, with a recommended homemade blue cheese dressing. $2-$9. facebook.com/pages/Chicken-Lips/ 127528870606718

102 N. BEDFORD ST., 608-305-4357.

LIBRARY MALL FOOD CART.

CAPITOL CHOPHOUSE

9 E. WILSON ST., 608-255-0165.

At the Monona Terrace Hilton. The menu is steak-centric at this impeccable, quiet dining room. The fish entrees, however, are also very good. Lunch features sandwiches, salads and pastas. Local sourcing. $8-$60. capitolchophouse.com

CAPTAIN BILL’S

2701 CENTURY HARBOR RD., MIDDLETON, 608-831-7327.

The deck, with a view of Lake Mendota, is a draw for the fish- and seafood-centric menu. Clam chowder, crabcakes, pan-fired walleye, coconut shrimp, plus steaks and a locavore pasta entree. $8-$30. capbills.com 38

ISTHMUS DINING 2017

703 E. JOHNSON ST., 608-257-5993.

5508 HWY. N, SUN PRAIRIE, 608-837-6721.

CIRC

1 W. DAYTON ST., 608-257-6000.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner inside the Madison Concourse Hotel. Breakfast as buffet or to-order scrambles, pancakes, steelcut oatmeal; lunch is upscale sandwiches and grilled flatbreads. Dinner means a wide range of proteins: duck, chicken, walleye, salmon, ribeye, porkchops and more. $7-$27. circmadison.com

COLECTIVO COFFEE

25 S. PINCKNEY ST., 608-255-0474. 583 STATE ST., 608-709-1911. 2530 MONROE ST., 608-630-8930.

Coffee and espresso drinks from the Milwaukee roasters, plus smoothies and teas, sandwiches and burritos (both breakfast- and lunch-based), and several daily soups. Pourovers, the lemon-blueberry scone, smoothies, and house beers are favorites. $1-$8. colectivocoffee.com/cafes/monroe-st

COMMON PASTA FOOD CART 1025 W. JOHNSON ST.

Food cart with fresh homemade pastas and sauces from chefs Brian Baur and Thomas Durbin. The ragu and the mac ’n’ cheese are always on the menu; look for daily specials. $8.

CONCOURSE HOTEL BAR

1 W. DAYTON ST., 608-257-6000.

Pizza, appetizers and other bar food faves. concoursehotel.com

CRESCENDO ESPRESSO BAR

1859 MONROE ST., 608-284-7908.

Anodyne beans and an all-day menu of breakfast sandwiches (egg and cheese with bacon or sausage, or pesto and tomato) and burritos (chicken and black bean or chorizo). Plus pastries, muffins, scones and some gluten-free options. $1-$6. crescendomadison.com

CRYSTAL CORNER

1302 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-256-2953.

Neighborhood tap with great music bookings.

DAISY CAFE AND CUPCAKERY

2827 ATWOOD AVE., 608-241-2200.

Cupcakes are a highlight, of course, but this casual east-side spot is a favorite for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Stratas and omelets, six variations of meatloaf (also meatless), burgers and sandwiches. Vegetarian and gluten-free offerings available. $3-$15. daisycafeandcupcakery.com

DANE COUNTY FARMERS’ MARKET Saturday on the Capitol Square April 15Nov. 11; Wednesday 200 block of Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard April 19-Nov. 8. Local meats, fish, cheese, baked goods, vegetables and fruit. Holiday market runs Nov. 18-Dec. 16 at Monona Terrace; the rest of the year is the Late Winter Market at the Madison Senior Center.

DEXTER’S PUB

301 NORTH ST., 608-244-3535.

A real beer lover’s hangout, with craft brews from Wisconsin and across the U.S. changing weekly. Sandwiches, salad bar, Wednesday and Friday fish fry in this friendly neighborhood pub. $7-$16. dexterspubmadison.com

DOOLITTLES WOODFIRE GRILL 4323 EAST TOWNE BLVD., 608-729-4980.

Woodfire rotisserie cooking. Sandwiches and burgers, salads and flatbreads, steaks, seafood and chicken, spit-roasted. $7-$30. doolittles.com

DOUGH BABY

511 STATE ST., 608-630-9030.

Offbeat doughnuts like a peanut butter and jelly version or cheesecake-filled, plus treats like a bourbon pecan pie bar, caramel brownies, and pop-tarts, from Kristine Miller, pastry chef at L’Etoile. $1-$5. doughbabybakery.com

EAGLE CREST BAR

3710 CTY. RD. T, 608-244-5413.

Bar menu with specials like taco Tuesday, a legendarily huge bacon burger and a loaded Bloody Mary. Sunday breakfast. $4-$9. facebook.com/pages/EagleCrest/108755452501411

ECHO TAP

554 W. MAIN ST., 608-256-6928.

Char-broiled sandwiches and other tavern fare; pizza. $4-$19. echotapmadison.com

EDO GARDEN

6309 MONONA DR., MONONA, 608-226-9828.

One room features hibachi tables, the other’s for less dramatic dining. Sushi, teriyaki, donburi, yaki soba, good light tempura and all-day bento box specials. $3-$34. edojapaneserestaurant.com

EDO JAPANESE RESTAURANT 532 S. PARK ST., 608-268-0247.

Sushi, teriyaki, donburi, yaki soba, good light tempura and all-day bento box specials. $3-$34. edojapaneserestaurant.com

EVERLY

FUJI SUSHI & HIBACHI

GLAZE TERIYAKI

The kitchen is experimenting with trends sprouting up on the coasts. The menu is a vegetarian’s dream come true, but there’s plenty here for the carnivore as well. There’s an entire section of the menu devoted to veggies, but the “big plates” section of the menu has fish, chicken, steak and pork dishes. Beef tartare here is simple and delicious, lightly flavored with shallots, capers and parsley and topped with a rich egg yolk. $6-$19. everlymadison.com

The hibachi room is the place to be, where chefs cook your meal on a griddle right in front of the table. Large selection of sushi, rolls, as well as a bento box that’s especially good for lunch. $3-$41. fujimiddleton.com

Seattle-style teriyaki is a straightforward dish, just a grilled protein served on rice, with a sweet/spicy soy-based sauce and a side salad. Proteins at this small chain are chicken (choose from either breast or thigh meat), steak, pork loin, salmon, tofu or wok-sauteed vegetables. The best is the salmon; also good, a side of the addictive deep-fried shishito peppers. $5-$10. facebook.com/GlazeTeriyakiMadison

2701 MONROE ST., 608-416-5242.

FESTIVAL FOODS

810 E. WASHINGTON AVE., 844-511-3887.

Full-service grocery store with large deli, bar area and happy hour. $2-$10. festivalfoods.com

FIELD TABLE

10 W. MIFFLIN ST., 608-630-9222.

Market-based cafe and market with a craft cocktail program. And housemade doughnuts that you will dream of at night. Grab-n-go lunches, as well as sit-down.The kitchen is wise to one of today’s major culinary trends: healthy food in bowls. Salmon, flank steak, even the simple salad is well done. $6-$28.

FIVE STAR KOREAN BBQ

605 E. WASHINGTON AVE., 608-630-9840.

Korean spot. Head there for the bibimbap, bulgogi, ja jang myun, or the dozen entreesized soups on the menu. $6-$22.

FORAGE KITCHEN

665 STATE ST., 608-286-1455.

Health-conscious, salads and grain bowls and fresh-squeezed juices and acai bowls. The signature salads and bowls are popular, but with the build-your-own option, the sky’s the limit. The Powerball is a you-won’t-gethungry favorite. $5-$11. foragemadison.com

1610 DEMING WAY, 608-827-8898.

GAIL AMBROSIUS CHOCOLATIER 2086 ATWOOD AVE., 608-249-3500.

Fine handmade chocolates, with truffles, seasonal specialties and regional flavors. Faves include the caramel sprinkled with salt and the Maharajah curry. $4-$44. gailambrosius.com

GENNA’S LOUNGE

105 W. MAIN ST., 608-255-4770.

Happy hour features free snacks — chips, nacho sauce, meatballs, and drink specials of course. gennaslounge.com

GLASS NICKEL PIZZA

2916 ATWOOD AVE., 608-245-0880. 3191 MUIR FIELD RD., 608-848-4877. 101 WEST MAIN ST., SUN PRAIRIE, 608-834-9919. 5003 UNIVERSITY AVE., 608-218-9000.

Well known for specialty pizzas including the all-time favorite, the Fetalicious, but don’t overlook non-pizza entrees: pasta, salads, subs, and particularly the Mediterranean lasagna. Eat-in dining room, two bars. $5-$22. glassnickelpizza.com

563 STATE ST., 608-467-9303.

GOOD FOOD FOOD CARTS

E. MAIN AND S. PINCKNEY, LIBRARY MALL.

Wraps or salads with several daily soups in cool weather. All low-carb, much gluten-free. Also available as a lettuce wrap. $4-$10. goodfoodmadison.com

GRAFT

18 N. CARROLL ST., 608-229-8800.

Graft is a very pretty, capable restaurant that swings for the fences. It’s a menu with broad appeal: entirely satisfying rillettes of diced smoked trout, harissa-rubbed chicken thigh atop Israeli couscous, flank steak with coffee butter. Massive wine list. $7-$34. graftmadison.com

GRAZE

1 S. PINCKNEY ST., 608-251-2700.

Locally sourced comfort foods drawn from a variety of cuisines in a contemporary space in the ‘glass bank’ on the Square. Playful starters include pretzels, popcorn and pork buns. At brunch, choose decadent Nutellastuffed French toast. The pub burger is top-notch. $7-$15. grazemadison.com

FOREQUARTER

708 E. JOHNSON ST., 608-609-4717.

ELLA’S DELI

2902 E. WASHINGTON AVE., 608-241-5291.

Encyclopedic menu featuring every possible permutation of sandwiches — even tongue! — in huge platter dinners. Plus a dizzying array of ice cream sundaes, floats and malts amid an equally dizzying scene of mechanical clowns, flying elephants and whatnot. $4-$13. ellas-deli.com

ENO VINO WINE BAR AND BISTRO

601 JUNCTION RD., 608-664-9565.

Sophisticated dining room and bar, an impressive wine list, and good calamari, ahi tartar, petite filet with potato goat cheese stack. $8-$28. eno-vino.com

ESTACION INKA

604 UNIVERSITY AVE., 608-467-3010.

Peruvian sandwich shop and rotisserie chicken near campus. The # 1 combo (a quarter chicken with a side of black beans and rice is a rock-bottom bargain at $5, but the sandwiches can tempt you away from it. Witness the chicharron and the butifarra, two pork sandwiches, or the beefy lomo saltado. $3-$18. facebook.com/EstacionInka-530803573754789

ESTRELLON

313 W. JOHNSON ST., 608-251-2111.

Sprawling tapas menu plus large plates from James Beard award-winning chef Tory Miller. Spanish tortillas, paella, even Wednesday burger night. $6-$22. estrellonrestaurant.com.

Local seasonal menu changes daily. Housecured meats from Underground Butcher. You might find anything from wild nettle gnocchi to a New York strip steak. Bar program focuses on seasonal ingredients, too. $8$34. forequartermadison.com

FRABONI’S ITALIAN SPECIALTIES AND DELICATESSEN

108 OWEN RD., MONONA, 608-222-6632. 822 REGENT ST., 608-256-0546.

Porketta roasts, fresh Italian sausage and sauces, imported meats and cheeses, soups and homemade sandwiches.$3-$9. frabonisdeli.com

FRESHII

422 GAMMON PLACE, 608-821-0209.

Fast-casual spot with healthy wraps, salads, burritos and bowls, $5-$9. The most successful items have a healthy bent or sport strong Asian flavors. Kale or quinoa can be added as a “base” for $1, and burritos and wraps can be made “green,” with a blanched collard leaf subbing for a flour tortilla, for 75 cents. $4-$9. freshii.com

FROMAGINATION

12 S. CARROLL ST., 608-255-2430.

Wisconsin-made artisanal cheeses as well as the best from France, Spain, Italy, England, Australia, Ireland, Portugal and Denmark. A small selection of sandwiches available for takeout. $5-$15. fromagination.com

ISTHMUS DINING 2017

Trout filet and fennel with crispy kale at Field Table.

PAULIUS MUSTEIKIS

GREAT DANE PUB & BREWING CO.

HA LONG BAY

1353 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-255-2868.

123 E. DOTY ST., 608-284-0000. 876 JUPITER DR., 608-442-1333. 2980 CAHILL MAIN, FITCHBURG, 608-442-9000. 357 PRICE PLACE, 608-661-9400.

Serene decor; big menu with items from Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese cuisines. Rice dishes, Thai curries, pho. It’s very popular for both eat-in and take-out. $4-$20. halongbaymadison.com

Popular pub fare, from burgers (including a $1 upgrade to local grass-fed beef) to sandwiches to chicken pot pie and a spicy peanut stew. Gluten-free menu available. And, up to 14 handcrafted beers on tap. $6-$16. greatdanepub.com

HARMONY BAR

GREAT NORTHERN DISTILLING

1740 PARK AVE., PLOVER 715-544-6551

Tours Saturday at 1, 2 and 3 pm.

2201 ATWOOD AVE., 608-249-4333.

Friendly neighborhood hangout with burgers right up there with the best in town. The creamy blue cheese burger is a star, but so’s the homemade, secret-recipe walnut burger. Pizzas, dinner salads, homemade soups and desserts daily. $6-$11. harmonybarandgrill.com

HERITAGE TAVERN GREENBUSH BAKERY

1305 REGENT ST., 608-257-1151.

Homemade doughnuts, apple fritters — and kosher, too! Drop by in the wee hours and get them hot and fresh. Takeout only. $1-$11. greenbushbakery.com

GRUMPY TROLL BREW PUB 105 S. 2ND ST., MOUNT HOREB, 608-437-2739.

Creative and award-winning house-brewed beers. The restaurant serves a large number of sandwiches, soups, salads, burgers as well as dinner entrees. Upstairs in the pizzeria, the pies are the centerpiece, with dough made from the same grain used in the beers. Gluten-free on request. $5-$19. thegrumpytroll.com

131 E. MIFFLIN ST., 608-283-9500.

The constantly changing menu at chef Dan Fox’s cozy and elegant restaurant draws from local, carefully sourced, seasonal foods. The menu is heavily tilted toward sharing, due both to the first courses’ overall heaviness and the generously sized portions. In keeping with chef Fox’s reputation as a pork connoisseur, meat eaters will find lots to love; look for the pork schnitzel. For dessert, hope for gianduja chocolate tart. $10-$35. heritagetavern.com

THE HIGHLAND CORNER GRILL

2424 UNIVERSITY AVE. (IN THE INNTOWNER), 608-233-8778 EXT. 515.

Casual American fare. Buffet-style breakfast. $7-$25. inntowner.com/cms-view-page. php?page=dining

HIMAL CHULI

LA KITCHENETTE

Momochas, a dumpling with a coriander/ tomato dipping sauce, have achieved local cult status, but the menu presents excellent Nepalese food across the board. Two daily tarkari (stews) specials are always good, but try the kadi (onion dumplings) or the buff, too. Bathrooms are not wheelchair accessible. $4-$19. facebook.com/pages/ Himal-Chuli-Madison-WI/120304580251

Unpretentious French cafe. Savory and sweet crepes are the heart of the menu, but there’s also excellent soup, salad, tartines and sandwiches like croque-monsieur. The lavender creme brulee is not to be missed. Accessibility: There are steps to the front door. $4-$21.

HOPCAT

Healthy comfort food that just happens to be vegan. The food cart serves an excellent tofu pot pie, tamales, chocolate chip waffle plate, BLT sandwich with housemade seitan, occasional specials, and killer housemade ginger limeade. $3-$8. ladoniacafe.com

318 STATE ST., 608-251-9225.

222 W. GORHAM ST., 608-807-1361.

This mini chain out of Michigan offers a wide range of regional, global and Belgian beers, plus a full bar. Soups, salads, burgers, wraps, pretzels, and the famous Crack Fries, beer battered with cracked pepper seasoning. $5-$13. hopcat.com/madison

HURTS DONUT

2831 PARMENTER ST., 608-571-0788.

The doughnuts are oversized and come draped in a colorful array of glazes and topped with all manner of sugary cereals and candy. Coffee drinks. $2-$10. hurtsdonutco.com

IAN’S PIZZA

319 N. FRANCES ST., 608-257-9248. 100 STATE ST., 608-442-3535.

Slices with inventive toppings from mac and cheese to a steak dinner on a textbook-perfect crust. Mix-and-match, locally sourced salad at State Street location. $3-$30. ianspizza.com

IMPERIAL GARDEN

2039 ALLEN BLVD., MIDDLETON, 608-238-6445.

Well-done Chinese favorites, such as chicken pot stickers, treasure seafood and crispy duck. $6-$22. imperialgarden.com 40

ISTHMUS DINING 2017

805 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-283-4266.

LADONIA CAFE FOOD CART 10 E. MAIN ST.

LALO’S MEXICAN RESTAURANTE

5510 UNIVERSITY AVE., 608-422-5479.

Standards like tacos, tostadas and quesadillas are done well; loaded nachos are a specialty. Dinners include flautas, chiles rellenos, enchiladas, milanesa and tilapia. $2-$13.

LAZY JANE’S CAFE

1358 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-257-5263.

Well known for its scones and other breakfast treats. There are many vegan and vegetarian options available, like a seitan hash. Or opt for more traditional egg omelets. $3-$8. facebook.com/pages/Lazy-JanesCafe/58012837020

LOMBARDINO’S RESTAURANT

2500 UNIVERSITY AVE., 608-238-1922.

Upscale Italian, but also great pizzas and Caesar salad. Menu changes seasonally. Pasta is particularly outstanding. $7-$44. lombardinos.com

LONE GIRL BREWING COMPANY 114 E. MAIN ST., WAUNAKEE, 608-850-7175.

Brewpub with a beautiful roof-deck patio and fire pit. Try tacos, burgers or a wide range of sandwiches. $5-$15. thelonegirl.com

LUCILLE

101 KING ST., 608-283-0000.

Seasonal wood-fired pizza, market salads, bar snacks, craft cocktails in beautifully revamped space on the Capitol Square. Lunch-sized pies and a salad special; nightly specials including Wednesday cheap date night. First floor only is wheelchair accessible. Late-night menu 10 pm-1 am. $4-$22. lucillemadison.com

LUPE’S TAQUERIA

6719 FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT AVE., 608-841-1715.

Build-your-own tacos, burritos, quesadilla, torta, salad bowl in the manner of a Chipotle, with chicken, chorizo, pork, beef, or a mix of pork/beef as the meats. Black beans make a vegan option. $4-$9.

MACHA TEA COMPANY

823 E. JOHNSON ST., MADISON, 608-283-9286

The folks at Macha take the ritual seriously, with usucha and koicha matcha. They serve other green and black teas, and tea-based inhouse baked goods like nothing else in town. Food on Friday with special “pop-up” lunches, served from noon until they run out. $4-$12. machateacompany.com

THE MADISON BLIND

601 LANGDON ST., 608-257-6949.

Top-floor and roof-deck dining space at the Graduate Hotel near campus. Contemporary, airy room, with snacks and small plates the heart of the menu, distinguished by the inventiveness and care of chef Chris Cubberley. Burgers and a whitefish dinner round out the menu. Craft cocktails, wine and beer. $4-$16. themadisonblind.com

MAHARANI

380 W. WASHINGTON AVE., 608-251-9999.

Among the Indian standards, look too for a large selection of south Indian dosas and uttapams. Great beef masala, veggie mango. Lunch buffet. $6-$18. maharanimadison.com/home.html

MALT HOUSE

2609 E. WASHINGTON AVE., 608-204-6258.

150-plus bottles and 18 tap beers. Some are rare. There are plenty of local favorites. Drafts are dispensed through three imported European beer towers. No food, although you can have pizza or whatever delivered. malthousetavern.com

MANNA CAFE

611 N. SHERMAN AVE., 608-663-5500.

From-scratch baked goods including breads, lush desserts and pastries. Inventive sandwiches, quiches, soups and salads. Weekend brunch. Gluten-free options available. $4-$12. mannacafe.com

MARINER’S INN

WEEKENDS

MEDITERRANEAN CAFE

625 STATE ST., 608-251-8510.

One of the best homegrown restaurants left on lower State Street. Lovingly homemade Middle Eastern and Mediterranean specialties; look for daily specials like couscous stews, moussaka, bourak and more. Even a simple hummus-and-pita wrap, falafel sandwich or cup of avgolemono soup will put a smile on your face. However, it’s only open for lunch. Accessible, but narrow for wheelchairs. $2-$10.

8 AM - 2 PM

•NEW ORLEANS STYLE•

MERCHANT

121 S. PINCKNEY ST., 608-259-9799.

Well known for craft cocktails, with 40some bourbons and other top ingredients on hand. But artisan meats in sandwiches and salads for lunch and small plates and a half-dozen entrees for dinner add to the draw of this modern space. $7-$26. merchantmadison.com

METCALFE’S MARKET

726 N. MIDVALE BLVD., 608-238-7612. 7455 MINERAL POINT RD.608-829-3500. Vast array of deli options. Sushi bar, plus pizzas made to order, sandwiches, salads, local sourcing. $4-$12.

shopmetcalfes.com

MID TOWN PUB

2405 ALLEN BLVD., MIDDLETON, 608-826-5129.

Thoughtful neighborhood pub with burgers, brats, sandwiches, wraps, and daily lunch and dinner specials. Bloody Mary bar Saturdays and Sundays 11 am-3 pm with a “fixin’s” buffet. $6-$16. midtownpub.com

1501 MONROE STREET, MADISON (in HotelRED) W I T H F R E E PA R K I N G !

“ L AG N I A P P E ” spanish

creole

“a little something extra” – T H E W I S E R E S T A U R A N T. C O M –

NOLA BRUNCH CLASSICS with some unexpected twists

MIKO POKE

2701 MONROE ST., 608-416-5241.

The Hawaiian raw fish bowl comes to Madison, essentially sushi rolls reconceived of as a bowl. White or brown rice, raw fish, chicken, vegetables and an array of sauces. Pick house combos or design-your-own. $2-$15. mikopoke.com

OW! TICKETS ON SALE N

MINI HOT POT

1272 S. PARK ST., 608-709-6558.

Cook your own hot pot right at the table. Meats and vegetables are cooked, fondue style, in a simmering cauldron of broth. $6-$19. facebook.com/MiniHotPotMadison

DINER

MONTY’S BLUE PLATE

2089 ATWOOD AVE., 608-244-8505.

Monty’s does the nouveau diner proud. It’s a popular neighborhood gathering spot, packing ‘em in from breakfasts to the Friday fish fry. It serves breakfast all day — like a diner should. More unusually, it has great and plentiful vegetarian and some vegan options. $4-$12. montysblueplatediner.com

MORRIS RAMEN

106 KING ST., 608-416-5547.

Big, steaming bowls of noodles in a spicysavory broth. The house special is the Morris Ramen; the focused menu offers four types of ramen, plus a rotating chef’s special ramen. $3-$13. morrisramen.com

5339 LIGHTHOUSE BAY DR., 608-246-3120.

NANI

Steaks and seafood; dining on the north end of Lake Mendota. Top steaks pair with jumbo shrimp, scallops, salmon, walleye, king crab legs, lobster tail and more. For vegetarians, a fettucine alfredo with veggies and vegan stuffed portobello mushrooms. Order the house special hash-browns. $10-$47. marinersmadison.com

Dim sum, served daily, along with a full menu of about a hundred more appetizers and dinners. There are standards like hot and sour soup, kung pao chicken and so forth, but also less frequently seen offerings like jellyfish with Szechuan sauce, pork stomach with hot chilis and tea-flavored pigeon. $4-$23.

518 GRAND CANYON DR., 608-826-9300.

SUNDAY, MAY 21 RK CENTRAL PA

ISTHMUSFOODCARTFEST.COM ISTHMUS DINING 2017

NAU-TI-GAL

PARADISE LOUNGE

RARE STEAKHOUSE

Friday fish fry, Sunday brunch and daily specials in this informal restaurant on the Yahara River at the north end of Lake Mendota. Outdoor and porch dining in summer, live music, volleyball. $8-$20. nautigal.com

Burgers, sandwiches, brats and fries. Noon-hour specials for the lunch crowd include meatloaf, enchiladas and Friday fish fry. $2-$8. thenewparadiselounge.com

Spacious, traditional-style steakhouse with an emphasis on dry-aged beef steaks. Great happy hour specials in an elegant atmosphere. $12-$75. madison.raresteakandseafood.com

5360 WESTPORT RD., 608-246-3130.

119 W. MAIN ST., 608-256-2263.

PARCHED EAGLE BREWPUB

5440 WILLOW RD., 608-204-9192

TAKE-OUT

NEW ORLEANS

1920 FORDEM AVE, 608-241-6655. 1517 MONROE ST, 608-280-8000.

Tasty Creole cuisine to bring home and enjoy. Barbecued shrimp, shrimp etouffee, fried oysters and catfish. Finish with a heavenly slice of sweet potato pecan pie. $4-$16. eatmobettah.com

NITTY GRITTY

223 N. FRANCES ST., 608-251-2521. 315 E. LINNERUD DR., SUN PRAIRIE, 608-837-4999. 1021 N. GAMMON RD., MIDDLETON, 608-833-6489.

Best known for dispensing free soda or beer on someone’s birthday in a keepsake mug. Burgers are popular, but there are also sandwiches and daily specials on the menu. $5-$16. thegritty.com

OAKCREST TAVERN

5371 OLD MIDDLETON RD., 608-233-1243.

A real American menu: hamburgers, deli sandwiches, BLTs and salads. Full dinner menu includes grilled chicken, steak and seafood specials. Fish fry on Wed. and Fri. $4-$23. facebook.com/oakcresttavern

OFF BROADWAY DRAFTHOUSE 5404 RAYWOOD RD., 608-630-9111.

In Wisconsin you can have a beer-centric tavern that also has a thoughtful, well-done kids’ menu — it’s not a contradiction. Strong Midwestern tap list (20+ taps), and a menu of appetizers, salads, sandwiches and a few entrees. $5-$15. offbroadwaydrafthouse.com

THE OLD FASHIONED,

23 N. PINCKNEY ST., 608-310-4545.

Upscale Wisconsin tavern a contradiction in terms? Enjoy your favorites in a civilized throwback. Wurst plates, mac ’n’ cheese and classic burgers, plus — obviously — a Friday fish fry with choice of cod, perch or walleye, with perch the favorite. Serves breakfasts. $5-$28. theoldfashioned.com

DISTILLERY

OLD SUGAR

931 E. MAIN ST., 608-260-0812.

PARTHENON GYROS

316 STATE ST., 608-251-6311.

Madison’s classic gyros stop. Spring for a basket with fries and take advantage of the roof garden for open-air dining, weather permitting. Also chicken kebobs, souvlaki, spinach pie and other Greek fare. $5-$13. parthenongyros.com

PIZZA BRUTTA

1805 MONROE ST., 608-257-2120. 6712 FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT AVE., 608-841-1882.

Wood-oven pizza, Neapolitan-style, made with fresh mozzarella and local and organic ingredients, plus salads. While the pizzas are stupendous, don’t overlook the lunchtime-only sandwiches. The tart tonno — just tuna and lemon and arugula — is perfection. $5-$12. pizzabrutta.com

PLAN B

924 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-257-5262.

LGBT dance club and bar. planbmadison.com

PLAYERS SPORTS BAR

2013 WINNEBAGO ST., 608-244-9722.

Appetizers, soup, burgers and sandwiches. Daily lunch specials. $3-$8. facebook.com/pages/Players-SportsBar/115856348435783

PLAZA TAVERN

319 N. HENRY ST., 608-255-6592.

Home of the famous Plaza Burger and famous secret sauce. Grilled sandwiches, fries and a selection of beers including local craft brews. $4-$6. theplazatavern.com

PORTA BELLA

425 N. FRANCES ST., 608-256-3186.

A famed romantic spot with Italian cuisine, great pizzas. Look for special wine pairing dinners. Or drop by for drinks and appetizers in the wine cellar. $8-$28. portabellarestaurant.biz

PORTER

640 W. WASHINGTON AVE., 608-720-1110.

“Porter Pockets,” sandwiches like the twoegg-omelet bocadillos, the Heritage Ham, all on excellent breads, with locally sourced meats; daily soups. Coffee is from Counter Culture. $4-$9. portermsn.com

OLIVER’S PUBLIC HOUSE

RAMEN KID

There’s loads of handsome distressed wood, and a square-shaped bar makes the earthtone-rich space feel both cozy and active. The result is understated and sophisticated. The farm-to-table efforts are laudable, but craft cocktails truly put Oliver’s on the map. $9-$27. oliverspublichouse.com

OM FUSION

3579 E. WASHINGTON AVE., 608-467-2110.

Familiar Indian dishes that can be quite spicy, but the best part about OM is the freshly made dosas, which are brought right out to your table. Like perfect little crepes, the delicate flatbread comes out golden brown and slightly crisp, perfect for ripping apart and scooping up everything on your plate. $4-$19. omindianfusioncuisine.com 42

Excellent beers at this nanobrewery from Jim Goronson. A few snacks are on hand, but the focus is the beer. Try the house “Verily,” a Belgian dubbel. Or opt for a flight to try ’em all. $2-$8. parchedeaglebrewpub.com

Tasting room open Thursday-Saturday for tours and craft cocktails made with favorites like Queen Jennie whiskey and Cane & Abe rum. oldsugardistillery.com 2540 UNIVERSITY AVE., 608-819-8555.

ISTHMUS DINING 2017

14 W. MIFFLIN ST., 608-204-9000.

461 W. GILMAN ST., 608-467-7387.

Ramen Kid is fun. You can order a bowl of tonkotsu ramen with gyoza in it, or corn ramen, or pile toppings onto shio ramen. Tonkotsu makes for an interesting side. Accessibility: One step up into the building. $4-$11. ramenkidmadison.com

RAMEN STATION

1124 S. PARK ST., 608-819-8918.

Features a couple of unusual ramen stylings, including gyuniku ramen, a spicy beef base reminiscent of chili, which delivers modest heat without making things uncomfortable. Other picks: chicken karaage and curry rice with pork katsu. Skewers, fried rice and other Japanese curries. $3-$13. ramenstationmadison.com

RED

316 W. WASHINGTON AVE., 608-294-1234.

Long list of sushi rolls as well as signature rolls. Vegan roll available. Also appetizers, salads, and some fusion entrees. There are inventive, non-sushi dishes on the “Dine” section of the menu, which borrow from Japanese, French and new American culinary traditions and seem to occupy an interesting space between appetizer and shareable entree. $3-$30. red-madison.com

RED ROCK SALOON

322 W. JOHNSON ST., 608-709-5200.

Southern barbecue, Texas chili, burgers, superhot chicken wings with a variety of sauces (tasty and probably worth the fuss). Barbecue mostly comes as sandwiches, but there’s also a rib dinner. Plus live music and a mechanical bull. $5-$25. redrockmadison.com

RESTAURANT MURAMOTO 108 KING ST., 608-255-4343.

A move back up King Street offers a timely shakeup. The fusion-y menu retains old favorites like the miso-marinated cod and features lots of special rolls and sushi combos. $5-$25. muramoto.biz

RISING SONS DELI

617 STATE ST., 608-661-4334. 745 N. HIGH POINT RD., 608-841-1884.

Laotioan/Thai menu. State Street location has a secret outdoor garden dining space. You can usually upgrade to sticky rice for a small additional charge. $4-$12.

ROAST PUBLIC HOUSE

558 STATE ST., 608-819-6457.

Gastropub-style spot with local sourcing. Sandwiches, salads and an all-day breakfast. Now open in new location. 15 craft beer taps, Wisconsin and national. $6-$12. roastmadison.com

THE ROBIN ROOM

821 E. JOHNSON ST., 608-284-7638.

Fine cocktails from Chad Vogel and select craft beer taps in a relaxed lounge setting. Rotating cocktail menu has drinks made with a variety of homemade ingredients, exemplified by a blood orange and cognac cordial that is the Robin Room’s version of an old fashioned. robinroombar.com

ROCKHOUND BREWING COMPANY 444 S. PARK ST., 608-279-9424.

The rustic, good-looking space has big windows and a welcoming U-shaped bar in the center of the room. The signature pot pies are terrific. There are plenty of vegetables on the menu, not just fried junk food, for which Rockhound deserves a round of applause. $9-$19. rockhoundbrewing.com

ROMAN CANDLE

1054 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-258-2000. 2623 MONROE ST., 608-446-4200. 1920 PARMENTER ST., MIDDLETON, 608-831-7777. 2685 RESEARCH PARK DR., FITCHBURG, 608-278-1111. 100 N. HAMILTON ST. AT THE CHILDREN’S MUSEUM, 608-287-3982.

Pizza with inventive toppings; pasta and salads and ice cream. $5-$23. theromancandle.com

SALVATORE’S TOMATO PIES

912 E. JOHNSON ST., 608-238-6040. 121 E. MAIN ST., SUN PRAIRIE, 608-318-1761.

Tomato pies in the Trenton, N.J., immigrant tradition: cheese first, then toppings, then sauce. Specials, locally sourced ingredients. A select menu of tacos, too. The new Sun Prairie location has entrees, including a great meatball. Specials, locally sourced ingredients. $7-$24. salvatorestomatopies.com

SARDINE

617 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-441-1600.

Lakeside dining in the Machinery Row complex. Start with oysters on the half shell and don’t hold back. Duck confit, fish, steak frites are all thoughtfully done. Sunday brunch is a special treat here, as is the happy hour. $6-$28. sardinemadison.com

SMITTY’S STUDY PUB

601 UNIVERSITY AVE., 608-441-7117.

Full pub menu includes appetizers, sandwiches, burgers, soups, salads and diner entrees including filet mignon, ribeye, salmon, fish fry and pasta. $5-$26. fluno.com/study-pub.php

STONE CREEK COFFEE

1216 E. WASHINGTON AVE., 608-422-5266.

Full range of coffee drinks; there’s the Clever and a Hario V-60 and an Aeropress to choose from for individual brewing of your cup. Beans are roasted and sourced by Stone Creek, a small chain out of Milwaukee. Some baked goods. $1.75-$5.25. stonecreekcoffee.com

SUGAR RIVER PIZZA

957 LIBERTY DR., 608-497-1800.

Sandwiches or pizzas with thin, thick or hand-tossed crusts. The specialty pizzas are particularly well done. $4-$27. sugarriverpizza.com

SUJEO

10 N. LIVINGSTON ST., 608-630-9400.

A huge menu spanning much of Asia, but largely centered on Korea and Southeast Asia, where dishes roll out with meticulous care from chef Tory Miller. Noodle dishes, bao, hot pot and ssäm (wraps); craft cocktails. $6-$18. sujeomadison.com

TANDOORI HOUSE

6713 ODANA RD., 608-833-1824.

Pakistani-influenced Indian restaurant. Noon buffet. Tandoori, curries, dosas, but also specials, nihari and haleem. The Pakistani dish chapli kababis Peshawari (minced beef kebabs) is the unexpected hero of the menu — truly spicy, with a complex, earthy kick and slowburning heat. $6-16, with combination dinners up to $44. tandoorihousemadison.com

TAQUERIA GUADALAJARA

1033 PARK ST., 608- 250-1824.

Tacos, tortas, huaraches, sopes, and gorditas. House specialties include parrillada for four (tableside grill of traditional meats, and cactus) and somewhat pared-down versions platillo mi rancho and platillo Guadalajara. $2-$11. lataqueriaguadalajara.com

TAVERNAKAYA

27 E. MAIN ST., 608-286-1548.

Japanese gastropub on the Square with skewers and small plates pointing to the kitchen’s greatest skills. And, at long last in Madison, we have a restaurant serving the savory pancake okonomiyaki. The ponzu steak frites and the Taiwanese three cup chicken also prove the kitchen can execute. $3-$24. tavernakaya.com

THE THIRSTY GOAT

3040 CAHILL MAIN, 608-422-5500.

There are 32 taps at this sports-centric pub that specializes in barbecue. The pulled pork or brisket sandwiches are both good. The ribs are also a worthy big meal. The dry rub works very well at imparting deep flavor to the meat. Friday fish fry. $8-$26. Thirstygoatbrew.com

TORNADO STEAK HOUSE

116 S. HAMILTON ST., 608-256-3570.

Classic supper club atmosphere with top-notch steaks, pork tenderloin, venison, rabbit and seafood. $9-$49. tornadosteakhouse.com

TUTTO PASTA TRATTORIA

305 STATE ST., 608-294-1000.

Over 40 varieties of pasta including conchiglie, penne, capellini, fettuccine, fusilli, rigatoni, with an excellent linguine alle vongole verace. Dinner is served into the wee hours of the night. $5-$20. facebook.com/pages/tutto-pasta-statestreet/190389501575

THE UGLY APPLE FOOD CART

MIFFLIN AT WISCONSIN AVE., PLUS OTHER LOCATIONS, 608-352-8459.

Cart that specializes in breakfasts, made from overstock vegetables and fruit sourced from local farmers. Apple fritters, muffins, biscuits and gravy and a market frittata, all from scratch; coffee. $2-$6.

UMAMI RAMEN AND DUMPLING BAR 923 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-819-6319.

Japanese ramen and Chinese dumplings, served in a converted house in the heart of Willy Street. The pork buns and the tonkotsu ramen are tops. Ramen, however, is dine-in only. Brunch weekends. Also operates Library Mall food cart. $4-$10. umamimadison.com

BUTCHER

UNDERGROUND

811 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-338-1527.

Butcher shop with local meats, housemade charcuterie. The sandwich menu, served 11 am-3 pm, varies based on what is seasonal and available. $7-$10. undergroundbutcher. com

UNIVERSITY CLUB

803 STATE ST., 608-262-5023.

Sandwiches and salads plus more substantial entrees like cinnamon grilled pork chop or pan-seared rainbow trout, with preference to local and regional food. Open to the public. $5-$14. uclub.wisc.edu

UW MEMORIAL UNION DAILY SCOOP

800 LANGDON ST., 608-265-3000.

A campus ice cream tradition.

VILLAGE BAR

3801 MINERAL POINT RD., 608-233-9956.

Burgers are the star at this neighborhood institution and unofficial clubhouse for the Glenway golf course. $4-$5. facebook.com/thevillagebar

VINTAGE BREWING COMPANY

674 S. WHITNEY WAY, 608-204-2739.

Food centers on comfort standards. Good burgers; try the Blue Heaven. Brewing on site. $5-$14. vintagebrewingcompany.com

VINTAGE SPIRITS AND GRILL

529 UNIVERSITY AVE., 608-250-0700.

Fun food for the bar crowd. Sandwiches, salads, burgers, and a fish fry. 14 tap beers some coming from the west side Vintage brewpub. $4-$13. vintagemadison.com

WEARY TRAVELER FREEHOUSE 1201 WILLIAMSON ST., MADISON, 608-442-6207.

WILLY STREET CO-OP

1221 WILLIAMSON ST., 608-251-6776. 2817 N. SHERMAN AVE., 608-709-5445. 6825 UNIVERSITY AVE., MIDDLETON, 608-284-7800.

The deli has to-go entrees like the spicy kung pao tofu, eggless egg salad and sides like the emerald sesame kale. Veggie and vegan entrees and sides; hot entrees daily; salad bar for fresh organic salads; juice bar. willystreet.coop

THE WISE

1501 MONROE ST. 608-819-8230.

Inside the HotelRED across from Camp Randall. Tapas-inspired small plates with a Wisconsin/Spanish bent. The chickenand-waffles plate is a diner favorite. More traditional game-day fare of brats and wings available for Badger games. $4-$25. hotelred.com/eat-drink/the-wise

WOLLERSHEIM WINERY,

7876 HWY. 188, PRAIRIE DU SAC, 608-643-6515.

Historic winery with tours and tastings yearround. Wine garden and wine shop with wine accessories available. wollersheim.com h

Neighborhood gathering place, home of “Bob’s Bad Breath Burger” (with garlic, onions and cream cheese), sandwiches and other world-cuisine-influenced entrees, like the West of the Andes sandwich. Excellent late-night menu. $8-$30. wearytravelerfreehouse.com

SEE THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO RESTAURANTS AT ISTHMUS.COM

DINNER & THE CITY Located in downtown Madison, CIRC serves contemporary American cuisine with global influences for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The menu, which changes seasonally and is crafted with local and organic ingredients, is inspired by the diverse individuals that define our community and is shaped by hardworking local farmers who embody the spirit of Wisconsin.

1 West Dayton Street • Madison, WI 53703 circmadison.com

ISTHMUS DINING 2017

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