MAX*D Issue 29 by Isuzu UTE Australia

MAX*D THE MAGAZINE FOR ISUZU D-MAX AND MU-X OWNERS – GO YOUR OWN WAY

ISSUE 29

CAST AWAY EXPLORING THE MYSTICAL ISLAND OF K’GARI

HIGH TIMES

YOUR ULTIMATE GUIDE TO THE VICTORIAN HIGH COUNTRY

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CONTENTS

IN THIS ISSUE

ISSUE 29

Features

Decoding IDAS

I-Venture Club 4WD trainer Matt Taylor unpacks Isuzu’s Intelligent Driver Assistance System (IDAS).

Australia’s best bush pubs

It’s a sunburnt country full of epic Outback and regional watering holes. Pull up and stay the night.

Unsung Heroes

A good 4WD is crucial when you’re crossing the Northern Territory for the Indigenous Literacy Foundation.

MAX*D GO YOUR OWN WAY

18 CAST AWAY

Off-roading expert David Wilson visits the world’s largest sand island, K’gari (formerly known as Fraser Island), with a cadre of I-Venture Club compatriots.

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CONTENTS

Up Front 06 Readers’ Rides

On road and off with Australia’s D-MAX and MU-X community.

08 In Focus

Tallebudgera paramedic Harriet Herlt on saving lives, convoy four-wheel drives, and ‘tradie cosplay’.

10 News

Car of the Year gongs from Drive and OzRoamer, Australian Survivor crowns a (D-MAX) winner, and a reaction to satisfaction.

12 Wishlist

Stay warm all winter with the best camp heaters on the market.

16 Inside Line

Melbourne City FC star Connor Metcalfe won the 2021-2022 Alex Tobin Medal, netting his junior club, Valentine FC, a new Isuzu D-MAX.

Middle Ground 26 Traveller

Finding four-wheeled nirvana in the bushland where Ned Kelly was king: the Victorian High Country.

42 Refuel

‘Adventure cook’ Harry Eden’s ultimate bush ribs are a guaranteed winner in the camp oven.

44 Hook, Line & Sinker

The Northern Territory’s Gulf Country is an angler’s paradise— with some surprising turns.

Outback 47 Great Isuzu Moments

When the Isuzu VehiCROSS took class honours in the ultra-gruelling 1999 Australian Safari Rally.

48 Dealer List

Wherever you are across Australia, there’s a local Isuzu UTE Dealer near you.

MAX*D GO YOUR OWN WAY

WELCOME

HELLO AND WELCOME

to the latest edition of max*d magazine! Before we get into this issue, I firstly wanted to say thank you for your ongoing support and understanding as we navigate some unprecedented industry challenges. Due to the ongoing effects of the COVID-19 pandemic, like all manufacturers, we’ve seen delays in supplying vehicle orders. However, we are pleased to see that the new-generation D-MAX and MU-X are proving more popular than ever before, and we are working with the factory to secure as many vehicles for local orders as possible—and to deliver them as

MAX*D GO YOUR OWN WAY

quickly as we can. For those awaiting their new vehicle, thank you for your patience, and we are delighted that you chose an Isuzu to help you get the most out of the Australian lifestyle. Following the launch of the new D-MAX and MU-X in recent years, we have seen Australians from all corners of this great country putting the Isuzu brand at the top of their shopping list. That’s doubtlessly testament to the competitive package on these vehicles—a package designed for, and engineered around, you. Your feedback guides us at every step, and we’re

ISSUE 29

delighted to have built both our D-MAX and MU-X models to a standard worthy of your desire for adventure. Our customers are at the heart of everything we do, and we strive to maintain our reputation for customer satisfaction. This has again been recognised in real-world customer surveys, with the Isuzu UTE brand awarded two major customer satisfaction titles in recent months: ‘Car Manufacturer of the Year’ at the 2021 Roy Morgan Customer Satisfaction Awards (a back-to-back title after also winning in 2020), and the ‘2021 Canstar Blue

WELCOME

Customer Satisfaction Award for New Cars’. With our commitment to delivering a superior ownership experience worthy of your most intrepid off-road escapades, we hope to keep you Going Your Own Way for years to come. Inspiration is a key theme in this edition. From motivating the next generation, to providing excitement for upcoming exploits, issue #29 of max*d has something for everyone. Up front you’ll get the Inside Line on how Aussie A-Leagues best and fairest, Connor Metcalfe, is supporting his junior football club. On page 40 you’ll learn how the

Indigenous Literacy Foundation is helping Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Children in remote communities across the country. For the tech heads, 4WD guru Matt Taylor gives you an in-depth insight into Isuzu’s Intelligent Driver Assistance System (IDAS) on page 14—including what all those acronyms mean when they’re keeping you safe. Elsewhere there are true blue adventures on the world’s largest sand island, a guide to the wonders of the Victorian High Country, and a bucket list-ready feature on iconic Australian pubs of the Outback and bush. Like I said, inspiration galore!

From all of us here at Isuzu UTE Australia, thank you once again for your ongoing support and enjoy the latest edition of max*d magazine. Onward to adventure!

Hiroyasu Sato Managing Director, Isuzu UTE Australia

MAX*D GO YOUR OWN WAY

READERS’ RIDES

READERS’ RIDES Been going your own way? Tell us about it—and win.

Disclaimer: Non-genuine aftermarket accessories and modifications are not recommended or endorsed by Isuzu UTE Australia. For detailed information on ‘what is’ and ‘what is not’ covered by the Manufacturer’s Warranty please refer to the Warranty and Service Booklet.

CATHERINE BATTENALLY LIVES: ST LEONARDS, VIC DRIVES: 2022 D-MAX 4X4 X-TERRAIN “I loved my X-TERRAIN as soon as I saw it! We go jet skiing and trail riding a lot, and we needed something that we could just throw all the gear into—no sand, no fuss— and get going. So I test drove it and ordered it and then I thought… oh no, what if Matt, my husband, doesn’t like it!? Haha! So he went weeks without driving it and I was getting tense, and then I finally got him to drive it… and he didn’t want to let me back behind the wheel! We’ve been along the Great Ocean Road and we go up to Nyah, near Swan Hill. We take the motorbikes and it’s just so peaceful beside the river. I never actually thought I’d have an orange car—I was thinking white—but I loved it so much that it just had to be the Volcanic Amber!”

LEO BLANCO LIVES: BRIBIE ISLAND, QLD DRIVES: 2021 MU-X 4X4 LS-T “I worked as a doctor in a very rural hospital in South Africa and I was given a 4WD Isuzu in 2002. I know their reliability—it was 65km each way on a very bad gravel road to get into town and it never let us down. Fast-forward to today and we mostly use our MU-X around Bribie Island, usually on trips to the beach where you can have a bit more space to yourself. We also tow the van quite often to Double Island Point. We love to be in the fresh air, down by the ocean, and during Christmas and Easter we’ll often have a few friends joining us in convoy— sometimes up to 10 families in total. We almost all own D-MAXs or MU-Xs as well. It’s like a small club! I think we have six Isuzus all put together.”

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PAUL & HEATHER KELLY LIVE: KURUNJANG, VIC / DRIVE: 2021 D-MAX 4X4 X-TERRAIN “This is our third D-MAX! We’ve had a 2012 model (which my son now has with 300,000 trouble-free kilometres on it) and a 2017 model which my other son now has… with 150,000 trouble-free kilometres on the clock! And apart from the scheduled services, we haven’t spent a cent on either of them. They’re both white because I drove them as work utes for years. For my next car, I wanted a bit of luxury and didn’t want a plain colour, so naturally, I got the X-TERRAIN in Volcanic Amber. This photo was taken up the top of Mount Hotham and I was worried about the climb—I thought we’d be holding everyone up—but you wouldn’t even have known the van was on the back. We’ve just become full-time grey nomads, heading up the east coast, and now we’re Outback bound. We can’t wait.”

DALE CLEGG LIVES: WARIALDA, NSW / DRIVES: 2014 D-MAX 4X4 LS-M “It was about eight years back when I thought it time to consider the purchase of a replacement motor vehicle. After much research, and looking at the many four-door 4x4 utes on the market, I decided on a five-speed manual D-MAX LS-M crew cab. My D-MAX now has 230,000kms recorded—with a service every 10,000km. During that time, I’m delighted to report that I’ve had no failure of the vehicle at all! The mechanic during its most recent rego check said the only thing wrong with the car was that there was nothing wrong with it. I’ve had many friends who’ve ridden in my D-MAX who can’t believe how smoothly the engine runs when on a longer drive, and the fuel economy is just excellent for its class. Needless to say, I’m a very happy D-MAX owner.”

TANIA COWARD LIVES: MILDURA, VIC / DRIVES: 2021 MU-X 4X2 LS-T “It’s just wonderful being able to get out and about again, especially after being in lockdown for so long! We like to head down to Warrnambool to watch the speedway— it’s my hubbie’s hobby, he’s an avid watcher, but it’s about a seven-hour drive. We’re looking forward to going down again in January and back over to Adelaide as well. We love our MU-X! When you’re out on the road travelling, as soon as you pull up in a van park, people come over and they ask you about your car, which is how I found out about how good the MU-X was in the first place. I told my husband, ‘Right, I know what we’re getting!’ I’m incredibly lucky to have been able to buy it outright, having come into some inheritance. My lovely dad used to drive buses, actually—always Isuzus—so he’d be very proud!”

We are giving away 5 x $100 Ampol gift cards thanks to our good friends at

WIN 1 OF 5 AMPOL GIFT CARDS!

Featured Readers’ Rides will each receive an Ampol gift card valued at $100 each.

Simply send us a high-resolution image of your D-MAX or MU-X and a 100-word blurb, along with your VIN, name, contact details, suburb and model of your Isuzu, to maxd@iua.net.au

MAX*D GO YOUR OWN WAY

READERS’ RIDES IN FOCUS

THE HEART STARTER

Gold Coast paramedic Harriet Herlt is an off-roading OG—with a pair of his-and-hers D-MAXs in the garage.

NAME: LIVES: DRIVES:

HARRIET HERLT TALLEBUDGERA, QLD 2017 D-MAX 4X4 LS-M

You’re half of a husband-and-wife pair of D-MAX drivers. Who got theirs first? Me! I’ve always loved camping and four-wheel driving on the beach. I actually got my D-MAX a few months before I even met my husband because, you know, being an independent female I didn’t need a man to take me four-wheel driving, haha! He was actually driving a little midsize sedan back then. It was so good when we got together because there was a lot of heckling: me in the manly ute and him in his cute little car. I’m quite a girly girl and I do love my high heels. And I’m a petite lady, so it was very funny climbing out of my big D-MAX in high heels and him prying himself out of his poky lil’ sedan.

What do you love about off-roading? I just love the freedom of it. It’s really the only place that I ever really feel completely disconnected and switched off—when you’re four-wheel driving on the beach with the wind in your hair, making tracks in the sand. It’s my idea of heaven. Where is this beach photo taken? Some of my girlfriends had never been four-wheel driving, so I took them to Stradbroke for the weekend, and now at least two of them are looking at buying 4WDs. My D-MAX—I call her Suzy—has never gotten bogged, never required any of the recovery gear that I’ve got. I’ve had to pull a few mates out, though. Now your husband has a D-MAX, too. Do you go off-roading in separate vehicles? No, he’s only got a two-wheel drive ute! It’s a 2021 D-MAX 4x2 SX. He tried to one-up me for manliness and went for the full tradie version: metal tray, ladder rack, tradie boxes. Because now he feels like he can legitimately go through the tradie entrance at Bunnings and not be shamed by his Toyota Aurion. So… tradie cosplay. Exactly! He reckons he has some street cred now. He puts our border collie in the back and goes to the hardware store. It’s all entirely make-believe. He wishes he was a tradie, but we’re both paramedics. As paramedics during COVID you must’ve had a stressful few years. Absolutely. That’s why it’s great to get out there and switch off. Every day now the new normal as a paramedic in Queensland

MAX*D GO YOUR OWN WAY

is to do 14 hours with no break. It’s a whole different ball game since COVID began. Have you ever been called on to use your paramedic superhero skills off duty? Yes, a couple of times. Once I was on holidays in Perth and I was with my sister-in-law, who is also a paramedic. We were first on the scene at a mini bus accident, full of tourists with critical injuries. We worked on them on the side of the road until the helicopters arrived. Wait, your sister-in-law is an ambo too? How incestuous is your industry? Very! We just gravitate towards each other. Actually, the group I tend to go four-wheel driving with are all health professionals— nurses and paramedics and physios. You understand what each other goes through. If I have a heart attack on K’gari I hope your convoy comes along. Yep. You’d be very unlucky if there wasn’t someone who could get you going again.

READERS’ RIDES IN FOCUS

Driving on the beach with the wind in your hair , making tracks in the sand, is my idea of heaven.

MAX*D GO YOUR OWN WAY

LATEST NEWS

The Isuzu D-MAX aiding Indigenous literacy to support the Indigenous Literacy Foundation (ILF) with a brand new Isuzu D-MAX 4x4 Ute to assist in their vital work. Established in 2011, the ILF is a community-led not-for-profit charity. It was conceived to ensure Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander children in remote communities have access to culturally relevant books and other learning resources. It also supports early literacy programs, and the creation of new books, many in First Languages. The new D-MAX will be based in Katherine, NT, allowing the ILF to travel between communities in the Top End. For more information—and to show your support—visit ilf.org.au

IUA IS PROUD

Australian Survivor: Off-screen champions FOLLOWING A SUCCESSFUL partnership with Australian Survivor 2021: Brains V Brawn,

Isuzu UTE Australia (IUA) once again teamed up with the fan-favourite adventure show for its ninth season, Australian Survivor: Blood V Water. In the latest iteration, audiences across Australia were again treated to an array of gruelling yet entertaining challenges as contestants battled for supremacy in the Outback wilderness of Charters Towers, Queensland. While the series was won by Victorian Mark Wales—a veteran of Australian Survivor 2017—members of the public also had the opportunity to embark on a personal adventure and take out a title of their own. Enter, Murray and Stephen, lucky viewers who walked away with a brand new Isuzu D-MAX 4X4 X-TERRAIN— ready to ‘Go Their Own Way’ in style and confidence.

Isuzu UTE Driving Customer Satisfaction

ISUZU UTE AUSTRALIA is committed to keeping Australia ‘Going Its Own Way’ by giving our customers complete peace of mind throughout their ownership experience. Backing our commitment to customer satisfaction, Isuzu UTE was recently awarded top honours by revered market research company, Roy Morgan, and Australia’s most-trusted comparison website, Canstar Blue. At the 2021 Roy Morgan Customer Satisfaction Awards, the Isuzu UTE brand is proud to have been named the 2021 Car Manufacturer of the Year—a back-to-back victory, having also won in the previous year. After describing Isuzu UTE as “the one to beat”, Canstar Blue’s Dean Heckscher rewarded the brand with the 2021 Canstar Blue Customer Satisfaction Award for New Cars, making Isuzu the first automotive brand to achieve the maximum 5-star rating across all categories.

If you want to keep up with all things Isuzu UTE, make sure you’re following us on our social pages! facebook.com/isuzuute Instagram: @isuzuute_aus MAX*D GO YOUR OWN WAY

WISHLIST

HOT TO TROT

Bring the heat this winter with the best portable camping heaters. WORDS GREGOR STRONACH

GASMATE PORTABLE CAMPING HEATER

Best for: portable power This little 5kg heater delivers a robust 13.5MJ/h, or around 12,800BTU. That’s higher than its competitors and more than capable of keeping you toasty whether you’re in a (semiventilated) shed at home or living it up at a campsite. Safety features include an oxygen depletion sensor and anti-tilt shut-off, and it can be economically run from a portable disposable Propane Canister, or directly from a larger refillable POL Propane Cylinder. Easy to light, it takes a short while to crank up, then sizzles in three separate settings like a Saharan sidewalk in summer. From: Gasmate Web: awardrv.com.au Price: $179.95

COMPANION RADIANT GAS HEATER

Best for: lightweight A fuel efficient, back-to-basics unit that pumps out the warmth like a tiny volcanic eruption. This 5,500BTU heater screws directly into the top of a gas bottle and is so cost effective that you can place several of them around the campsite to create a centrally warmed zone. While they won’t be particularly effective if you’re trying to cover a large area during, say, a Tasmanian winter, the simple combination of mesh burner, concave reflector and chrome safety grille means there’s not much that can go wrong. Oh, and it weighs just 760g. From: Companion Web: companionoutdoor.com Price: $79.99

CAMEC 12V MINI FAN HEATER

Best for: small spaces This mini heater is built to warm up small tents or a space in a caravan, but plugging it into your accessories port will also help defrost the windscreen on deep winter mornings (it’ll take about five minutes). Using gas heaters inside is a no-no, so while a lil’ electric model may create less bang, its combination of adjustable swivel stand, automatic temperature control, and 1.5-metre circuit-protected cord are a godsend (and you can run it off a solar-charged battery for the ultimate in sustainable heat). From: Camec Web: outbackequipment.com.au Price: $69.00

COMPANION PORTABLE LP GAS CAMP HEATER

Best for: style With 10,800BTU of output, standard safety features such as oxygen depletion sensor and anti-tilt shut-off, this 4.2kg LPG/ propane heater is constructed from sturdy—and attractively designed—steel. Its stainless steel feet bring a touch of the retro, and are doubtlessly rugged and durable, but this burner perhaps isn’t as sturdy on grass as some other options. With three heat settings and a ripper Piezo ignition, it’s nonetheless a solid bit of kit that you’ll have forever. It’s hot and stylish—almost exactly like you in your camp Crocs and trackies. From: Companion Web: bcf.com.au Price: $239.99 PRODUCTS SHOWN ARE NOT TO SCALE.

MAX*D GO YOUR OWN WAY

BORN TO TOW

BE ADVENTURE READY WITH 3.5 TONNE TOWING+ ON THE ISUZU MU-X. Experience exceptional towing with the Isuzu MU-X. With a 3.5 tonne towing capacity+, trailer sway control and a reversing camera as standard, you can take your boat or caravan on your next adventure with ease. With the power of Isuzu’s legendary 3-litre turbo-diesel engine, the adventure starts as soon as the journey begins. The 7-seat Isuzu MU-X is Born to Tow! ISUZU MU-X

3.5 tonne braked towing capacity on all MU-X models when fitted with an optional genuine Isuzu MU-X tow bar kit. Towing Mirrors as shown are optional accessory.

TECH HEAD

DECODING

IDAS

WORDS MATT TAYLOR

Isuzu’s life-saving Intelligent Driver Assistance System (IDAS) technology is available across the range—but what does it all mean?

“IT’S NO FLUKE that the third-generation

D-MAX was the first ute in Australia to earn a five-star rating under ANCAP’s new, more stringent safety criteria,” says I-Venture Club trainer Matt Taylor. “And IDAS is a crucial part.” “The best thing? IDAS is standardised across the new-generation MU-X range too.” Isuzu’s IDAS tech might appear to be an alphabet soup of acronyms, but put together, it’s an intuitive array of systems built to monitor the world around you. It can react instantly to prevent accidents … or, in less dramatic circumstances, just to make day-to-day driving (and parking) safer and easier. Here’s a list of some key features—explained in easy-to-understand language by Taylor himself.

BLIND SPOT MONITORING (BSM)

“BSM provides a two-stage warning. First, an amber light appears if a vehicle is in your blind spot. Then if the driver uses the indicator—i.e. they’re going to turn—the light flashes to provide extra warning.”

FORWARD COLLISION WARNING (FCW)

“Using the IDAS stereo imaging cameras to keep a constant eye on the road ahead, FCW warns the driver both visually and audibly if it detects a potential collision ahead.”

AEB WITH TURN ASSIST

“IDAS stereo imaging cameras have a really wide field of vision, which they use to detect oncoming vehicles when you’re preparing for a turn. So if you begin to turn into the path of oncoming traffic, it can intervene.”

MAX*D GO YOUR OWN WAY

TECH HEAD ADAPTIVE CRUISE CONTROL (ACC) WITH STOP AND GO*

Simply set your maximum speed and the following distance, and the ACC will adjust accordingly to the car in front—it even works in stop-start traffic!”

LANE KEEP ASSIST (LKA)*

“With Adaptive Cruise Control engaged, Lane Keep Assist detects lane shoulder markings. Then it provides gentle steering assistance, which you can feel, to keep the vehicle centred in its own lane.”

IDAS: KNOWING WHEN TOWING

IDAS knows when you’re hitched up, and will automatically turn off the Reverse Park Assist Sensors when you’re backing up your van. When towing, it is recommended that you toggle off several IDAS features that otherwise would intervene: Lane Departure Prevention (LDP), Emergency Lane Keeping (ELK), Lane Keep Assist (LKA), Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC), Blind Spot Monitor (BSM), and Rear Cross Traffic Alert (RCTA). TIP: you can quickly toggle some features on or off via the MID or, in 22MY models, via the Lane Support Setting switch on the steering wheel*.

TRAFFIC SIGN RECOGNITION (TSR)

“No need to second guess what the speed limit is. The TSR automatically displays the last detected speed limit sign for easy, immediate reference.”

MISACCELERATION MITIGATION (MAM)*

LANE DEPARTURE PREVENTION (LDP)

EMERGENCY LANE KEEPING (ELK)

TRAILER SWAY CONTROL (TSC)

LANE DEPARTURE WARNING (LDW)

REAR CROSS TRAFFIC ALERT (RCTA)

AUTONOMOUS EMERGENCY BRAKING (AEB)

INTELLIGENT SPEED LIMITER (ISL)

“This is handy in, say, parking stations. When you’re travelling slowly in confined spaces, if the accelerator is accidentally applied and a potential impact is detected ahead, MAM will suppress that input.”

“During lane changes, whether they’re intended or accidental, if a vehicle is detected coming from behind in the adjacent lane, ELK offers visual and audible warnings to the driver before providing steering assistance to avoid a collision.”

“LDW can warn the driver if their vehicle starts to stray out of its lane. First it uses a visual warning in the Multi Information Display beside the speedo, then with haptic vibration through the steering wheel.”

“If the driver fails to respond to the Forward Collision Warning (FCW), the system can react with suitable emergency braking to mitigate or prevent the impact. It basically applies the brakes independently if for some reason you don’t!”

*Automatic transmission models only

“If the driver fails to respond to the LDW, and they’re about to stray out of their lane, the system can automatically react with a warning and then steering assistance to pull them back into line.”

“This is a fine-tuned element of the ESC. It can detect the early signs of trailer sway and it will suppress engine power while strategically applying individual brake force to individual wheels to help straighten the vehicle—and your trailer—to keep you in line.”

“It’s often difficult to see passing traffic while reversing out of a tight park, so RCTA uses rear-mounted radars to detect any such obstacles. Then it provides both a visual and auditory warning if a collision is on the cards.”

“The speed limiter function can intelligently adapt to the last detected speed limit at the push of a button. Toggle it and it’ll respond on request, which is perfect for driving through road works and school zones.”

MAX*D GO YOUR OWN WAY

INSIDE LINE

BIG THINGS

GROW

Isuzu UTE A-League star Connor Metcalfe gives back to his grassroots community.

“EVERY SOCCER CLUB dreams of

having a player under their tuition who goes on to bigger and better things,” says Valentine Eleebana Football Club committee member and sponsorship coordinator Paul Gaden. “To have someone like Connor Metcalfe, who started in the Under 6s here and has gone on to reach the highest level in Australian football… we’re just so proud.” Metcalfe, 22, has been on a tear. The talented midfielder has been a big part of Melbourne City FC’s back-to-back premierships in 2020-21 and 2021-22,

MAX*D GO YOUR OWN WAY

helped the Olyroos to victory over Argentina at the Tokyo Olympics, and was awarded the Harry Kewell Medal for best young player of the year for the 2020–2021 season. He’s already a crucial player for the Socceroos and recently signed a three-year deal with German club FC St Pauli. He finished the season with an impressive passing accuracy of 85.3%, made 33 key passes and showcased his work rate from box-to-box, also having 25 clearances and 29 interceptions. Then, in May, Metcalfe won the Alex Tobin medal, the most coveted accolade

WORDS KIRK OWERS

in Australian football. The $10,000 individual prize goes to the player who demonstrates “leadership, achievement, commitment and service to the club and game”. And it comes with a bonus: a brand new Isuzu D-MAX X-TERRAIN awarded to the winner’s chosen junior club, thanks to the partnership between the A-Leagues and Isuzu UTE Australia. “What a way to top off the normal season,” says the 22-year-old Newcastleborn footballer. “Premiers, and then, for myself, the Alex Tobin medal—I’m very, very grateful.”

INSIDE LINE

Connor Metcalfe in the sky blue of Melbourne City.

Metcalfe selected Valentine as the destination for his Alex Tobin D-MAX— prompting elation and disbelief back at his old stomping ground.

“It’s been… pretty amazing! A couple of years ago I thought this (success) would never have happened, but I guess the hard work pays off.” When Metcalfe selected Valentine FC as the destination for his Alex Tobin D-MAX there was elation and disbelief back at his old stomping ground. “I was so excited to relay the news, but no-one would believe me at first,” laughs club secretary Mel Larson. Indeed, not everyone at the club realised they had produced a superstar. Metcalfe himself admits he wasn’t big as a junior—at least in terms of stature (“I was a late bloomer,”

he laughs. “I probably started growing when I was 17”). He got his start with Melbourne City, his only senior Australian club—as an unknown 15-year-old. So the good news was twofold: a Socceroo hero and a brand new D-MAX. What a two-for-one deal. The ute will be put to good use. “We’re a large club and we operate across four ovals,” says Gaden. “We’re always running training equipment and goal posts back and forth. It’s been a tough year because of all the rain closures so we’re just super excited by this news and very thankful to Isuzu UTE.”

MAX*D GO YOUR OWN WAY

CAST AW COVER FEATURE

MAX*D GO YOUR OWN WAY

WAY

COVER FEATURE

The Indigenous name for Fraser Island is K’gari—the Butchulla language word for ‘paradise’. It fits like a glove.

WORDS DAVID WILSON

K’gari (Fraser Island), QLD

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COVER FEATURE

MAX*D GO YOUR OWN WAY

COVER FEATURE

“NUP, I’VE NEVER been there.”

When this I-Venture Club (IVC) trip was first flagged with me, there was a mightylong pause on the phone after my response, followed by, “you’re kidding?” Funny isn’t it, because when you live, sleep and breathe 4WD for all of your working life, you’d think K’gari, formerly known as Fraser Island, would have been an early bucket list sign-off. I’ll put it down to the tyranny of distance because my home town of Adelaide is a long, long drive from the shores of K’gari, the Butchulla people’s name for what is now the Great Sandy National Park. Having just visited, I can confirm that it is both great and sandy and… well, why did I wait so long? I-Venture Club is Isuzu UTE Australia’s department of fun. If you own a D-MAX or MU-X you can join a dedicated 4WD or towing driver training day at one of our locations right around the country. You might be lucky enough to snag a place on one of our long-form journeys, like this, to an iconic must-see 4WD location. In the seven years we’ve been running

IVC we’ve coached thousands of owners in the art of four-wheeling and seen some truly stunning stuff. I wasn’t about to be disappointed this time, either. Our collection of Isuzu’s finest included a pair of D-MAXs and a pair of MU-Xs. Assembling at the River Heads ferry terminal via Hervey Bay, we were introduced to our fellow attendees. It turned out they were Fraser first-timers, too. Sunshine Coast resident Rory Williamson loves his new Marble White D-MAX X-TERRAIN and would have brought his wife Janneke along were it not for school duties. Riding shotgun instead was surfing buddy and celebrity hairdresser Stewart Foreman who rapidly rose to the position of Chief Comedian during the course of our stay. Gold Coasters Chris and Kim Szigeti brought Kim’s brand-spanking-new Basalt Black MU-X LS-T along to learn a few new tricks while surrounded by friends. Because I rarely do any driving on these events—I’m usually jumping out of the car to offer instructions, wave my arms about, or stand manfully in the sun—I was glad

I-Venture Club is Isuzu UTE Australia’s department of fun. If you own a D-MAX or MU-X you can join a dedicated 4WD or towing driver training day at one of our locations right around the country. MAX*D GO YOUR OWN WAY

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The beauty with Isuzu’s 4WD system is high range can be engaged on the move with a deft flick of the Terrain Command dial. that Rose, my wife and fellow life-traveller, was along for the ride as well as some of the IVC crew. We were set. We based ourselves at the rainforestencased Kingfisher Bay Resort, air thick with birdsong and the scent of SPF50, and made day trips across the island. If you do the same—or, indeed, stay elsewhere, then there’s one thing to remember above all others. Travelling K’gari, the world’s largest sand island is, unsurprisingly, a story about tyre pressures. Our trip coincided with some rain, because it’s 2022, so the sand was consistently damp. Not great for pics, but a mobility bonus with a capital B in a 4WD. First we aired down to 20psi/135kPa. Lower pressure means better buoyancy on the sands, a longer footprint carrying the weight of the vehicle more effectively with less opportunity for bogging. As a double bonus, the track stays in better nick for the next passer-by. Kingfisher’s network of roads is bitumen, but the blacktop doesn’t last long before you’re into the silica. To preserve the main thoroughfares, sections of the track have a network of interlocking plastic mats. We

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initially opted for high-range in 4WD on the inland trails, something our Fraser fixer, Corey, told me isn’t usually the case, particularly in the middle of most years, when rain isn’t so plentiful. The beauty with Isuzu’s 4WD system is high range can be engaged on the move with a deft flick of the Terrain Command dial and that will take you lots of places, but when the sands are dry and soft and churned up with the passage of plenty of vehicles, low range is the go. One of the wonders of K’gari is the proximity of lush rainforest. The island bursts with life, with seriously tall timber crowding the straight lines of the modern buildings it abuts. And all on sand. It baffles my inner gardener, but that’s just one of the many wonders of this World Heritage Listed jewel. A stop at Central Station filled in the gaps on the botanics. Apparently the Blackbutts, the Kauri and Hoop Pines and the Satinay, or Turpentine trees, in these forests will grow happily in soils that are short on minerals. There was a forestry operation here once upon a time but that’s no more, and the foliage is stunning: full of life and colour and energy.

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Stew and Rory. Don’t worry, they’re wearing pants.

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Walking the boardwalk trail alongside Wanggoolba Creek is nothing short of astonishing in a world where ‘astonishing’ is as overused as a teenager’s TikTok. The sapphire-clear creek tiptoes and trickles in oversaturated technicolour, as it did yesterday, and a thousand years ago. Savour that moment. Our four-vehicle convoy made steady progress through the trees, pausing briefly to accommodate the passage of oncoming vehicles. Single lane tracks demand a bit of good-neighbourly sharing and give way. Thankfully there are regular slip-points to make that possible and keep things chilled. I’d noticed that the IVC D-MAX’s tub was filled with colourful floaties, which did get me thinking about what Corey had in mind for us. The answer was a place called Eli Creek. North past the Eastern Beach turn-off, the creek meanders from the trees to the tide line, and its gentle pace is just perfect for some bobbing downstream on a vinyl ring and watching the natural world pass you by. Lolling around with an Aperol or an ale is a recommended way to spend an afternoon here with a bunch of mates. A sprint up the beach will bring you to a place called Waddy Point. I’d hoped we would get a surf here, as it’s the break the locals use, but not on this occasion as the winds were onshore and apparently, it’s shark season. Instead, we found ourselves taking a dive into the appropriately named Champagne Pools. Thanks to another quirk of Fraser magic, a rocky headland tumbles down to the sea and millennia of erosion have left behind a ring of rocks that fills with each splash of waves, a gentle and protected shallow lagoon that’s perfect for a paddle. Right along the exposed Eastern Beach are a string of campsites nestled in behind the foredune that I’ll definitely return to— perhaps in Rose’s MU-X. Rory and Stewart and Chris and Kim were thinking along similar lines. Access is mostly easy so you

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can get tucked away and out of the wind, something low range and a bit more tyre pressure reduction will do for you. Next time we’ll spend a full week exploring. With this much on the menu, a two-day break barely cuts the mustard. If there weren’t enough wonders to have my brain in nature overload, then the ‘perched’ lakes as they are called, certainly tripped the final fuse. We’d seen something similar in Tasmania on another IVC trip, but Lake Boomanjin, with its brilliantly white beach and inviting fresh waters, is so clear that snorkelling with a mask offers near-unlimited visibility. The colour-shift to turquoise just off the beach’s shelf was a revelation. Reflecting on our visit at the site of the shipwreck SS Maheno, it was pretty obvious that, like us, if you haven’t visited Fraser before, you should. It’s a destination that’s easily accessible, is stunningly beautiful and rewards the senses in so many layers. It doesn’t matter if you’re an off-roader with mud permanently caked between his molars or you’re just starting out. Watching Kim behind the wheel of her MU-X and seeing all of the novice’s 4WD apprehension melt away, confirms the ability of the vehicle—and the benefit of skills learnt. For her 4WD baptism I awarded her a gold star for true grit. Meanwhile, Rory and Stewart also filled their boots, driving to gold-star standard, and with Stew getting an elephant stamp extra for the gags. “How is it,” marvelled Rory, “that a stock-standard 4WD, can make it look so easy?” I’d like to say it was ninety per cent driver and ten per cent vehicle, but, well, I was never a mathematical genius. It turns out that those ratios are the wrong way around—a point that Rory would cheerfully embrace. They’d never been to K’gari. Nor had I. Turns out it’s never too late to learn to go your own way.

It’s a destination that’s easily accessible, is stunningly beautiful and rewards the senses in so many layers.

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K’GARI FAST FACTS WHERE IS IT?

The island is 285km north of Brisbane, via Caloundra, Gympie, Maryborough and Hervey Bay. Allow 3.5 hours to Hervey Bay using the Bruce Highway/M1 for this trip.

WHEN TO GO

May through September will get you the mildest temperatures and the least amount of rain. Expect 18-25°C during the day on average.

WHAT TO TAKE

Vehicle A 4WD with high and low range with reasonable clearance will do the job even on standard road tyres. Vehicular extras A reliable tyre pressure gauge, a 12V air compressor, a long-handled shovel, some recovery boards and maybe a pair of snatch straps and shackles with decent retrieval points is about all you’ll need. Vehicle permit A QLD NPWS permit for Fraser/K’gari costs a very reasonable $54.55 per vehicle and is valid for a full month. https://qpws.usedirect.com/QPWS/ Resupply There are a number of resort/accommodation locations scattered around the island offering food or limited grocery lines, so if you’re bush camping, bring everything along with you. Diesel and petrol are available.

GETTING THERE

Ferry/barge services are available from River Heads (20 minutes south of Hervey Bay) or from Inskip Point (adjacent to Rainbow Beach).

For more information, visit: www.iventureclub.com.au

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TRAVELLER

N A I R O T C I V COUNTRY H G I H WORDS GLENN MARSHALL

rden a G e h n of t w o r your c r e o f h t g settin wel in t c e f r The je e the p s e. i e t entur Sta v d a WD next 4

Victorian High Country

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ictoria’s alpine crown has long rewarded those with the right tools for the job—whether they’re the picks and pans of the Australian Gold Rush or the 44kg of 6mm iron plate armour worn by local boy Ned Kelly. But when the job is taking on its web of 4WD trails and fabulous off-road locations, the only thing you need is your D-MAX or MU-X. Covering over 1.2 million acres, the Victorian High Country saddles the peak of the Great Dividing Range. For millennia its highest plains have been an important meeting place for Indigenous people from all over south-eastern Australia for trade and ceremonies. The region was also important for the cattle farmers who fattened their herds on the plentiful feed. Now it has become a magnet for camping, four-wheel driving, fishing, bushwalking, horse riding and mountain biking. Being able to base camp and then explore the surrounding region is a great way to experience the area, and even if you’re towing a van, bringing along a tent to experience a sensational night or two camping atop a secluded mountain is worth the effort. Whether you’re planning a weekend jaunt or a longer stay, there’s no better place to recharge your batteries. There are plenty of forestry tracks to explore and some amazing campsites, too. Just remember that conditions can change quickly in the High Country and what may be easy in the dry, can be dangerous in the wet. Here’s all you need to know.

The High Country has become a magnet for camping, four-wheel driving, fishing, bushwalking, horse riding and mountain biking. MAX*D GO YOUR OWN WAY

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CIRCUIT ROAD

The Circuit Road is a seasonal gravel road that winds its way around Mount Stirling. Accessed via the Mount Buller Road and Mount Stirling Road, it begins and ends at Telephone Box Junction, covering about 60km. We recommend adding a few more clicks to your adventure though, with a couple of detours to some iconic High Country huts and the lovely Bindaree Falls. Razorback Hut is a collection of huts popular with horse trail riders, evidenced by the nearby yards, and is located just off the Circuit Road near King Saddle. The most visited hut in the High Country, Craigs Hut, is accessed via Clear Hills Track. Built for The Man from Snowy River in 1981, the current version is number three thanks to bushfires and neglect. If you’re towing, there’s a good area nearby for camper trailers, so why not spend the night? Back on the Circuit Road, at the junction with Monument Track and Bindaree Road, turn onto the latter down to the Bindaree Falls car park. The waterfalls are stunning, with ferns and moss enjoying the moisture. Next stop is Bindaree Hut, which looks like it was built for the dwarfs from Snow White. This is a nice, quiet spot for camping beside the Howqua River and, if you continue further along the track, you’ll reach Pikes Flat Hut, renowned as a great fly fishing spot. Returning to the Circuit Road, the final hut before Telephone

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Junction is Howqua Gap Hut, built in the late 1960s for logging operations.

DARGO TO MOUNT HOTHAM VIA BLUE RAG

If given the chance to camp for free behind a quintessential High Country pub, the Dargo Hotel is the one we’d choose. From here the Dargo High Plains Road leads you north. You’ll pass through a property where a local family, the Treasures, have grazed Hereford cattle on the Dargo High Plains since the 1880s. It won’t be long before you reach one of the High Country’s most iconic tracks—the loose, rocky Blue Rag Range. While the track isn’t as gnarly as it used to be, having felt the cut of a grader’s blade, don’t let this fool you as the surface changes from season to season. The final climb delivers views (and an Insta snap or two) to die for. From here it’s an easy drive to Mount Hotham and the Great Alpine Road and onto great destinations such as Bright or Omeo.

TALBOTVILLE

Pitching up on the banks of the Crooked River in the Grant Historical Area is one of the best camping experiences you’ll find. The old townsite at Talbotville offers an open plain with loads of space to set up, good swimming options and places to try your hand at fly fishing. This was a busy gold mining area in the 1860s.

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While the track isn’t as gnarly as it used to be, having felt the cut of a grader’s blade, don’t let that fool you — the surface changes from season to season.

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The Crooked River Track is a fun way of reaching the Dargo Hotel, with numerous water crossings of the Crooked and Wongungarra Rivers. Upon reaching the Kingwill Bridge, follow the Crooked River Road, winding and corrugated, to the Dargo Road before arriving at the pub. By following the Crooked River Track upstream, you’ll discover the old town sites of Bulltown and then Stonewall before tackling a challenging climb up Bulltown Spur Track to McMillans Road. Turning right takes you back to Talbotville while a left turn leads towards the Grant township site and the Dargo Plains Road. Stop by the historic Grant Cemetery and old township for an insight into how strong and determined these people were. Facing

Facing harsh temperatures and awful living standards, they worked the mines of a bygone era.

harsh temperatures and awful living standards, they worked the mines of a bygone era. In 1865, 15 pubs, a church, courthouse, police camp, medical centre, stores and town newspaper graced the township. By 1917 the place was empty.

OMEO

This was one of the first regions settled in Victoria when, in 1835, pastoralist George McKillop arrived from Monaro in New South Wales in search of new pastures for his cattle. Another member of his party, James MacFarlane, settled the first cattle station in Victoria in nearby Benambra. Alluvial gold was discovered in and around Livingstone Creek in 1851, and by 1854 more than 200 men were digging for the precious metal. There are camping options in and around Omeo that will allow you to set up base camp and explore the surrounding area. The Omeo Caravan Park is a beaut spot to stake a claim and enjoy all the facilities you need, or seek out the free campsite at the Victoria Falls Historic Area. The track continues to what’s left of the hydropower source for the King Cassilis mine. You can also see Victoria Falls—aim for the afternoon when the sun highlights the view.

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Charlotte Spur Track is a great challenge. This steep and rocky track was used by the stagecoaches and supply carts that plied this route from Bairnsdale to Swifts Creek. The Strobridge Huts lie deserted at the end of the track. This is where the reclusive ‘Loony’ Lucy Strobridge, more politely known as the Maid of the Mountains, lived until she died over a decade ago at the age of 81. Another brilliant loop trail follows the Benambra-Corryong before turning onto Tablelands Road, reaching the Taylors Crossing ford across the Mitta Mitta River. Here you’ll find a swing bridge across the river and Kennedys Hut before tackling backtracks to make your way onto the Omeo High Plains, past the historical Hinnomunjie Bridge, and return to Omeo.

SHEEPYARD FLAT/FRY’S HUT

The campgrounds at Sheepyard Flat and Fry’s Hut are serene, with the Howqua River flowing gently by. There are also some fantastic 4WD tracks and plenty of High Country huts to check out while you’re at it. Howqua Hills Track is a dry weather 4WD trail that climbs to Steiners Road. From there you can explore several tracks of varying difficulty to Jamieson or Howqua. By following Brocks Road to the Bluff Link Track, you’ll pass a few private huts along the Howqua River before climbing. You’ll enjoy stunning vistas across High

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Country plains, before reaching Lovicks Hut, rebuilt in 2006 and now popular with horse riders. Before the end of Bluff Track is the King Billy Tree. The oldest-known snow gum in the Victorian High Country has been growing for over 500 years. If you want to escape the crowds you can camp at Bluff Hut or Lovicks Hut where you’ll find some soft High Country grass to roll your swag out onto. Check the weather, though; you’re above 1500m and even summer can be bitterly cold.

TOM GROGGIN

Set on the banks of the Murray across open grassland is the Tom Groggin campground. Access is via the Alpine Way from Thredbo in the east or Khancoban to the north. Along with mountain biking, fishing and bushwalking, this is off-roading paradise. For the intrepid, spending the evening on top of Victoria’s highest driveable mountain is the ultimate challenge. You’ll also get to ford the Murray River and follow the Tom Groggin Track, with a quick detour via Dogmans Hut, before following the trail up to Mount Pinnibar Track. It’s an easy climb until you reach 1500m, then you’ll be grateful for four-wheeled traction over the final 3km to the 1772m summit. It’s a perfect spot to roll out your bedding, light a fire and watch the sunset across the High Country.

ALPINE ADVICE WHERE IS IT?

Located in Victoria’s north-east, the area features national parks, lakes, snow resorts, vineyards and the state’s highest mountains.

WHAT’S IT KNOWN FOR?

Wine, cheese and smallgoods in towns such as Rutherglen, Millawa, and Wangaratta. Ski resorts include Mount Buller, Falls Creek, Mount Buffalo and Hotham. Lake Eildon, with over 500km of coastline, is the state’s secondlargest artificial lake. Idyllic holiday towns on the Ovens River such as Bright and Myrtleford.

WHEN TO GO

Year-round (those snowfields welcome mountain bikers in summer). Note that some tracks are closed in the winter, however. Check with Parks Victoria at parkweb.vic.gov.au or call 131 963. www.travelvictoria.com.au/regions/ highcountry

D O N ’ T G E T B O X E D I N W I T H O U T D AT E D D E S I G N S

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THE LIST

AUSTRALIA’S BEST BUSH PUBS It’s a wide, brown land, covered with excellent watering holes. Why not stop for the night?

ubs are a key pillar in the mostly sturdy, occasionally wobbling architecture of Australian history. When something big happens, it seems, there’s often a pub involved. Ned Kelly made his last stand outside one (The Glenrowan Inn, Victoria). Slim Dusty sang about one pub that had no beer (The Day Dawn Hotel, Ingham, Qld) and another that had both beer and a chap called Duncan (The Town and

WORDS MICHAEL BENN

Country Hotel, in Sydney’s St Peters). We build them fast—during the Gold Rush, Ballarat opened 22 new pubs in two months—and take it poorly when they shut (4,000 Novocastrians rioted when The Star Hotel was shuttered in 1979). “This is what happens,” a sardonic BBC nightly newsreader told England, “when they try to close a pub in Australia.” Australia loves pubs, whether they’re in the duck’s guts of a CBD or literally in the

back of Bourke. But if you’re looking for an authentic place to nurse a frosty glass, there’s something particularly special about proper, old-school bush pubs. Scattered across the country, they’re both the heart and soul of rural towns and often the last vestige of an Australia that’s slowly fading into history. All the more reason to visit these ones while you can. Time to belly up to the bar and make yourself at home.

Scattered across the country, they’re both the heart and soul of rural towns and often the last vestige of an Australia that’s slowly fading into history. 34

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THE LIST

QLD

RUDD’S PUB

About 35km from Toowoomba in the town of Nobby (population: 563) is a proper pub boasting steaks the size of dinnerplates and free caravan camping just across the road. Built in 1893, it was originally called the Davenporter Hotel. The name changed in the 1980s as a nod to former barfly Arthur Hoey Davis (pen name: Steele Rudd). The creator of folklore icons Dad and Dave, Davis wrote On Our Selection on the premises. 45 Tooth Street, Nobby, QLD www.ruddspub.com.au

VIC

DARGO HOTEL

Not far from the foot of off-roader’s bucket list essential Billy Goat’s Bluff Track—Australia’s steepest gazetted road (see Victoria High Country feature, p26)—the Dargo Hotel caters to a clientele of timber workers, cattle farmers and 4WD aficionados. Sitting deep in a narrow valley in the Victorian Alps, the Dargo pub’s rough-hewn log cabins and tin ceilings are a reminder of the town’s roots. Built in 1898, this is an unreconstructed (well, unreconstructed since 1898, when the previous pub burnt down) frontier watering hole that’s a beacon of warmth and old-fashioned hospitality as dusk descends on cold afternoons. 108-110 Lind Avenue, Dargo, VIC www.thedargohotel.com.au

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THE LIST QLD

THE NINDIGULLY PUB

About 35km north of Thallon (pop: 257) stands the Sunshine State’s oldest watering hole. The Nindigully Pub, known as ‘The Gully’ to the half-a-dozen locals that remain in the five-building town (the pub, two houses, a general store and a town hall), was built in 1864. With a beer garden and free camping opposite the hotel on the banks of the Moonie River, the pub’s big annual drawcard is the Nindigully Pig Races (slated for 26 November this year)… and its intimidating Road Train Burger. At $80, it’s not cheap, but then you do get “a huge 1.2kg meat patty, a 1kg bun, six tomatoes, one entire iceberg lettuce, three large beetroots, one tin of pineapple slices, 400g of cheese and barbecue sauce, surrounded by 1kg of potato wedges”. Sternes St, Nindigully, QLD www.nindigullypub.com

WALKABOUT CREEK HOTEL

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Of all the places staking their own claim as “Australia’s Most Iconic Outback Pub”, the Birdsville Hotel, built in 1884, may be the most deserving. With its calendar including the obviously iconic Birdsville Races (2-3 September 2022) and the becoming-iconic Big Red Bash (5-7 July 2022) the town’s population swells like an angry Bruce Banner’s Y-fronts twice a year—but the pub is worth visiting any time. With a 28-room motel, airstrip opposite, cold beer and plenty of hot pub grub, it’s worth building up a thirst just so you can burst through the door dusty and in the right frame of mind. Adelaide St, Birdsville, QLD www.birdsvillehotel.com

Images © Tourism QLD

Welcome to Australia’s foremost pub for anyone hoping to find out what is, and isn’t, a knife. The Walkabout Creek Hotel was made famous when featured in the film Crocodile Dundee (there’s a life-sized Paul Hogan cut-out leaning on the bar). But far from being a Hollywood confection, it’s retained its rustic charm as a perfect stop-off on the way to the Boodjamulla National Park—a 28,200-hectare chunk of 4WDing paradise hidden in Queensland’s north-west. Cnr Kirby & Wylde Streets, McKinlay, QLD facebook.com/walkaboutcreekhotel

BIRDSVILLE HOTEL

THE LIST NSW

SILVERTON HOTEL

Just 26km northwest of Broken Hill, Silverton is famous as the birthplace of BHP (Broken Hill having not existed when the company was founded) and the filming location for Mad Max 2. Not to mention Razorback, Wake in Fright, (a bit of) Mission Impossible II and Priscilla, Queen of the Desert. Despite a permanent population of about 50, more than 120,000 visitors drop in each year to see the famous Silverton Hotel, with the front bar’s walls cluttered with hats, guitars, funny signs and other assorted weirdness. The Mad Max Museum is a short walk away. 12 Layard St, Silverton, NSW www.silvertonhotel.com.au

THE FAMILY HOTEL

The pub is the epicentre of small town life and you only have to look at The Family Hotel’s web address to note its importance to Tibooburra (pop: 134), 332km north of Broken Hill in Corner Country NSW. It offers all the pub standards: outback hospitality, cold beer, a proper feed… and, um, bawdy 1960s bar mural art by the likes of Russell Drysdale, Archibald Prize winner Clifton Pugh and others. It’s an ideal base for exploring Sturt National Park, Depot Glen, Poole’s Grave, Mt Sturt and Milparinka. 30 Briscoe Street, Tibooburra, NSW www.tibooburra.com.au

TILPA HOTEL

Hunkered on the glorious western bank of the Darling River, the pint-sized Tilpa pub was built in 1894 to cater to the river boat trade on the Outback’s most famous waterway. And while the river may have seen better days, despite flooding over January, the pub remains as glorious, generous and genuine as ever. Sit on the broad verandah under the tin roof, chat with the publicans, grab a meal and soak up the atmosphere of a hotel that’s often described as one of the last remaining true bush pubs in the country. 1 Darling St, Tilpa, NSW facebook.com/TilpaHotelNSW

THE DALY WATERS PUB

The past sure does linger here. Father Time is obviously not put off by the bra-lined ceiling, a tradition which began as a bar bet between a coach driver and his female passengers in the 1980s (they lost a drinking game). A gateway to the serene waterholes of the Nitmiluk National Park and the red cliffs of West MacDonnell Ranges, it’s an oasis of hospitality (and hearty meals) about six hours south of Kakadu. 16 Stuart St, Daly Waters, NT www.dalywaterspub.com

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THE LIST NT

TAS

PUB IN THE PADDOCK

“It’s a great place to wash away the dust (or mud) after a day’s fourwheel driving in some of Tassie’s most spectacular country,” says 4X4 Australia’s Dean Mellor. Also close to the pristine beaches of St Helens, Binalong Bay and the Bay of Fires, Pub in the Paddock has been licensed since 1880, but has found extra fame over the past decade. Its famous beer-drinking pig, Priscilla, draws big crowds, but the area’s attractions go beyond beer and exceptionally underdone bacon. Picture perfect and packed with good cheer, cold beer and (pig-adorned) souvenirs. 250 St Columba Falls Rd, Pyengana, TAS www.pubinthepaddocktas.com.au

GOAT ISLAND LODGE

Look, every pub has it’s dangers. In a large city those might include overzealous bouncers, boring drunks, or the person ahead of you ordering 17 intricate cocktails in the last minutes of happy hour. Not so at the Goat Island Lodge. You’ll need to hire your own boat (or helicopter) to get to it, a small, charming pub on an island in the middle of the Adelaide River (a waterway famous for jumping saltwater crocs). Run by Goat Island’s sole resident, Kai ‘Happy’ Hansen (and his 11ft pet croc, Casey), delicacies include burgers, fresh-caught barra, and Kai’s famous croc balls. Just don’t have one too many shandies and fall in. 24kms upstream (south) of the Adelaide River boat ramp www.goatisland.com.au

THE GRAND HOTEL

A couple of hours north of Kalgoorlie, this goldfields pub calls itself “the shortcut to everywhere”, providing a bed or campsite, as well as food, fuel and Antarctically cold beer. Unpretentious and authentic, the pub’s most famous patron in the 10-resident town is Roy, a stray horse that wandered into the bar in 2014. (He turned out to be an escaped ex-racehorse and stayed.) “The horse now spends his days wandering around town, catching up with the locals, greeting tourists and doing ‘horse things’,” reports WA Today. 34 Britannia St, Kookynie, WA facebook.com/grandhotelkookynie

PRAIRIE HOTEL

The Prairie Hotel may be weird, but it’s good weird. Incongruously but properly gourmet, and solidly authentic, its fine dining menu is as offbeat as it is acclaimed. Its famous ‘Feral Feast’ features dishes such as emu pate and camel sausage, and it brews its own (very good) beer on site. High St & West Terrace, Parachilna, SA www.prairiehotel.com.au

WILLIAM CREEK HOTEL

Billing itself as “Somewhere… in the middle of nowhere”, William Creek’s (only) hotel sits adjacent to Lake Eyre and about halfway along the Oodnadatta Track. Originally a siding on the old Ghan railway line and 160km from the opal-and-madnessrich hub of Coober Pedy, the heritage-listed William Creek Hotel was established as a boarding house in 1887. It now boasts a rusty iron roof, laidback atmosphere and eclectic menu options such as kangaroo yiros. Note the selection of donated hats hanging from the ceiling. Oodnadatta Track, William Creek, SA www.williamcreekhotel.com

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UNSUNG HEROES

THE INDIGENOUS LITERACY FOUNDATION

Get your motor running as the ILF heads out on the highway—bearing books.

“THE CLOSEST community

we work with is 130km away— that’s home base,” says Josie Lardy, Regional Program Coordinator for the Indigenous Literacy Foundation (ILF) in Katherine, NT. “It’s a 90-minute drive to the next one, an hour to the one after that. If you’re going around to Borroloola, it’s another six hours.” Each way. Travelling between remote communities in the Territory isn’t easy. “Now imagine that road trip with zero air-conditioning, on dirt roads where you can’t even open your windows because otherwise you’ll be sitting in a dust box,” says Ben Bowen, a Wiradjuri man and the ILF’s Chief Executive Officer. “That’s what Josie used to do.” That was before the D-MAX. “I’d literally sweat all the way there and back,” laughs Lardy, a Mangarrayi woman. “The phone doesn’t charge because it’s too hot, there’s no music. Like, ‘Argh, I’m stuck with my thoughts!’” Isuzu UTE is delighted to have come on board to help spread the word—literally. Since its inception in 2004, the ILF has worked with 400 remote communities, gifted 650,000 books, supplied early literacy resources, and published 143 books in 26 languages. There’s a clear need. Census

MAX*D GO YOUR OWN WAY

figures say three-quarters of those who speak a First Nations language at home live in very remote areas where English is often a third or even a fourth language. Kids on Josie’s beat may speak multiple languages, but very little English. “Our kids may be fluent in, say, Gumbaynggirr or Wiradjuri,” says Bowen, “and speak it at home, but at school they can’t.” If a child arrives from France or Germany, says Bowen, ESL teachers are accustomed— and resourced—to help. “But schools don’t necessarily have the skills, money, or even the understanding to support a child who might already be fluent in [Indigenous] languages in terms of saying, well, let’s use those fluency skills and help them transition into English.” Lack of reading materials in language is a critical issue. “When I was growing up in Jilkminggan, the only place our cousins would see books was at school, or if they came to visit, because mum and dad had a small library,” says Lardy. “But they weren’t really interested because, of course, our mob didn’t speak much English, let alone read English.” The ILF’s first translation, of Eric Carle’s 1969 classic The Very Hungry Caterpillar, was typically

WHO:

A not-for-profit that draws on the expertise of the Australian book industry. It was started by former teacher Suzy Wilson of Brisbane’s Riverbend Books.

WHAT THEY DO:

The ILF gifts culturally relevant books, works with kids under five, and supports community publishing projects.

WANT TO HELP? www.ilf.org.au

challenging. Australia’s 250 Indigenous languages and 800 dialects use complex matriarchal and patriarchal phonetics, which adapt to both the speaker and subject. As many English words, such as lollipop, have no equivalent, it’s a slow process. But the results are powerful. Years ago when the charity translated Caterpillar into Ngaanyatjarra, in Warburton, says ILF founder Suzy Wilson, “there were tears of joy all round. It made us realise how much we take for granted seeing your own language in a book. It was a pivotal moment”. Having begun by pasting laminated translations beside English text, the ILF now both republishes mass market titles, and community-written originals, all in First Languages. Stoking enthusiasm is key, says Bowen. “It’s about finding passion jobs for the kids so they can be self-driven learners. When Community in the Katherine region invites Josie into their space, the one-on-one facilitation really helps the mob engage in the learning process.” So, more books in hands. More passion for reading. More stories published by the ILF, 40 per cent of which are created by First Nations authors and illustrators. And more kilometres on the D-MAX clock for Josie Lardy.

Above left images: Tiwi Islands, Northern Territory by Tiffany Parker. Main image right by Lisa Pilbeam.

UNSUNG HEROES

Growing up in Jilkminggan, the only place our cousins would see books was at school. MAX*D GO YOUR OWN WAY

REFUEL

CAMP OVEN BUSH RIBS “WANT TO BE able to say you spent four hours slaving over dinner and get all the praise,”

says self-described ‘adventure cook’ Harry Eden, “while actually sitting back with a beer around the fire? Well, this is the recipe for you.” Fire To Fork, the internet sensation’s bush-camping cookbook, is a marvel for outdoorists who enjoy five-star grub in million-star locations, with easy-to-bring ingredients. “Don’t be intimidated by the cook time,” says Harry. “This recipe takes about 15 minutes to prepare, then all you need to do is check the fire every hour or so to make sure it’s still going. Just don’t tell your mates how simple it is—according to them, you went above and beyond with this meal and the least they could do is bring you drinks while you do all the hard work, then wash up afterwards.” Can’t argue with that.

METHOD 1.

Peel off the membrane from the back of the ribs. If you don’t, it’ll turn into a plasticky film that you won’t be able to chew through and will prevent the full flavours absorbing into the meat. It’s easy—just slice away at a corner until you can get a good grip with a bit of paper towel, then simply pull the whole membrane off. It should stay in once piece.

The membrane gone, generously salt and pepper the ribs and put them directly on a very hot and smoky grill or coals for five to seven minutes so they have some spots of char in some places.

Meanwhile, combine all the other ingredients (excluding the rice) in a camp oven, give it a rough stir and throw in the charred ribs. Put the lid on your camp oven and set it on a low heat with approximately 80 per cent of the heat below and 20 per cent above. If you’re using a gas cooker, it’ll still work with all the heat underneath. Let it simmer like this for three to four hours, or until the ribs are very tender and falling off the bone. Check it every hour or so, otherwise no-one will believe you’re actually working hard.

When it’s done, rinse the rice and combine it with three cups of water in a pot with a lid on. Boil until the rice is cooked and water has been absorbed (about 12 minutes).

Serve the ribs on a bed of rice and soak up the praise for your hard work.

Find more of Harry’s bush cookery recipes in Fire to Fork, $39.95 exploringedenbooks.com

MAX*D GO YOUR OWN WAY

CAMP OVEN BUSH RIBS

PREP TIME: 15 min COOKING TIME: 3-4 hrs SERVES: 4 INGREDIENTS • 2.5kg of beef ribs • Cooking salt • 1 and-a-half tablespoons of soy sauce • 3 cloves of garlic, coarsely chopped • 1 brown onion • 1/2 a cup of BBQ sauce • 400g of tinned diced tomato • 250ml of beef stock • 1/4 cup of American or Dijon mustard • 1 warm beer (or 350ml of water) • 350ml of water (700ml of liquid, total) • 3 tablespoons of brown sugar • Chilli, to taste (optional) • 2 cups of white rice Gear • Grill plate • Camp oven • Pot

OUTDOOR

“ The camping trip doesn’t start until the fire does”

@firetofork

Available at BCF and all good Camping and Outdoor stores

zippo.com.au/outdoor

HOOK, LINE & SINKER

THE

GULF

Gulf of Carpentaria

WORDS ANDREW HART

PHWOAR W

e have been travelling the country poking cameras (and gaffs) at and into fish for over two decades. In that time, we are happy to say we have visited most of Australia’s popular fishing hotspots. So when the opportunity came to road trip into a part of the Top End we’d never seen before, we jumped at the chance. The trip of 3500km would see us leaving Airlie Beach in Queensland, which is where the mighty HLS Bar Crusher 730 and our bright red D-MAX X-TERRAIN had been stored for a few months between filming commitments, and heading all the way to Darwin. But we’d be making one exciting stop along the way—to one of Australia’s

The Hook, Line and Sinker crew finds a fishing nirvana in the Gulf of Carpentaria.

most remote fishing clubs at King Ash Bay. Never heard of it? You’re not alone. But it’s a beauty. King Ash Bay (kingashbay.com.au) is found at the bottom of the Gulf, about 1000km east of Darwin. To get there from Queensland, you turn north at the Barkly Homestead and follow the road for about 500km. But here’s the best bit: that road is sealed. Perhaps it’s not exactly a highway, and more like a bitumen driveway in most places, but it sure does beat the red dirt and the corrugations that would no doubt take its toll on such a big trailer boat at some stage during the drive. Our trip to King Ash took the best part of three days, stopping for overnight stays in

Charters Towers and Mt Isa. The final day from the Isa to King Ash was the longest stretch, but we arrived safely at about 5pm, just as the sun was setting. On top of the sealed road (except for the last 21km), King Ash Bay is great for those travelling in the region because it has a well-stocked shop with fuel, ice and plenty of food. And even better still, The Groper Bar, a refreshing stop that serves ice-cold drinks and great meals. We even had live music on the Friday and Saturday nights. Accommodation for us was a wellappointed cabin, but visitors also have the option to hire houseboats if that’s more their style. Most people camp, however, as the whole site is set up for comfort and is

These are big rivers and it’s easy to get lost, sunburned, mosquito bitten, or swallowed by saltwater crocs. None of which seems fun. 44

MAX*D GO YOUR OWN WAY

HOOK, LINE & SINKER

found on the banks of the MacArthur River, just meters from a two-lane boat ramp. Luxury. We launched our big Bar Crusher 730 boat into the river early the next morning and made the 45-minute trip to the mouth. Here we ventured along the coast and fished one of the smaller rivers running into the Gulf. I was joined by a couple of mates from NSW who have been here many times and we soon landed some big Threadfin Salmon and a couple of silver Barra. Having a couple of lads with a spot of local knowledge was important. If you’re turning up for the first time, do your research and talk to people in camp. These are big rivers and it’s easy to get lost, sunburned, mosquito

bitten or swallowed by saltwater crocs. None of which seems fun. The fishing wasn’t easy, but consistent enough. We were visiting in early April and it was hot—40 degrees every day. On the plus side, we’d been expecting the humidity to have been so bad that the fish might’ve been able to swim through the air. Instead, it was rather pleasant. The next day we set the compass for a boat ramp on the coast called Bing Bong. This was a bit of a rough road, but well worth it—and not just for the name. From the launch location you have easy access to the Sir Edward Pellew Islands. Clean water is often hard to find in the Northern Territory, but the bottom of the

gulf around these islands is beautiful, blue and crystalline. We fished lures and caught a huge variety of fish including a tremendous feed of coral trout. I’m not certain of Heaven’s exact GPS coordinates, but I’m pretty sure they’re in Australia. And I wouldn’t be surprised if they’re less than a stone’s throw from here. So whether you’ve hitched up your D-MAX or MU-X with a caravan or a boat, or you’re just roaming free and easy, put King Ash Bay on the list of places to visit. It took us two decades to get there. It won’t take us that long to go back.

Hook, Line and Sinker is set to air on 7mate in August 2022.

MAX*D GO YOUR OWN WAY

UTE YEAR OF THE

“MORE THAN 12 MONTHS AFTER ITS INITIAL RELEASE, THE ISUZU D-MAX IS REALLY STILL QUITE IMPRESSIVE. IT’S STILL RIGHT AT THE TOP OF THE SEGMENT IN JUST ABOUT EVERY DISCIPLINE.” Trent Nikolic, Managing Editor, DRIVE

ISUZU D-MAX

2022 joint winner with Mazda BT-50.

ISUZU MOMENTS

VEHICROSS TAMES THE 1999 AUSTRALIAN SAFARI

ISUZU’S ECLECTIC CROSSOVER SUV HAD THE OFF-ROAD CHOPS TO MATCH ITS FUTURISTIC STYLING.

THE ISUZU VEHICROSS was a sexy mutant, far ahead of its time. “There’s a fantastical quality to its design,” ruminated local motoring journalist Rob Margeit last year. “It wouldn’t look too out of place in new car showrooms today. “Better yet, unlike today’s proliferation of crossover SUVs, the VehiCROSS had the off-road chops to match its high-riding and rugged stance.” Debuting at the 1993 Tokyo Motor Show, the Isuzu VehiCROSS was intended as a low-volume model from the moment it went into production. It emerged almost unchanged from its original design in 1997, when Isuzu suddenly decided to green light it as a halo off-road racer. Australian rally legend Bruce Garland remains a fan. He won two stages in the Production Class of the 1998 Paris-Dakar in one—and was ready for more.

“That bloody thing should have won its class in the Dakar—it was an absolute rocket,” recalls Garland. “What was good about it was the shape. And they were light! It was seriously aerodynamic, so at high speed, the Production Class cars that I was racing in, they would tap out at about 160, 170km/h. I’d be doing 200km/h in some places.” Only a non-finish in the longest stage of the notoriously brutal event, thanks to front differential issues, scuppered Garland’s chances. The VehiCROSS did taste glory, though—as a class winner (and ninth overall) in the eight-day, 4426km 1999 Australian Safari Rally, driven by Californian desert racer ‘Hollywood’ Bob Land. “He came out from America with 10 tyres and a carton of hairspray,” laughs Garland, “which he’d spray his hair with every day. But that VehiCROSS was super-fast.”

“The Australian Safari truly tests your physical and mental limits, as well as the limits of your race vehicle,” said Land, an Isuzu works driver, afterwards. It had been Land’s first Outback event, although he’d return (and perform) regularly— although never again in a VehiCROSS. “It’s a long race, and it’s all about endurance. I think we passed the test!”

That bloody thing should have won its class in the Dakar!

MAX*D GO YOUR OWN WAY

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FIND A DEALER

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CLICK HERE TO

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VICTORIA

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Effective as of 01/07/22. Please visit our website isuzuute.com.au/dealers for the latest dealer contact details.

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GOING ITS OWN WAY

KEEPING YOU AND YOUR VEHICLE GOING WITH SERVICE PLUS. Isuzu UTE Service Plus is our comprehensive care package providing you with complete peace of mind when maintaining and servicing your Isuzu D-MAX or MU-X. To keep you going we’ve got you covered with a 6 Year Warranty^, up to 7 Years Roadside Assistance< and up to 7 Years Capped Price Servicing> so you can go your own way with confidence. Find out more about Isuzu UTE Service Plus at your local Isuzu UTE Dealer or isuzuute.com.au

NORTHERN TERRITORY Alice Springs Centralian Motors Isuzu UTE (08) 8959 7700 Katherine Katherine Isuzu UTE (ASF) (08) 8974 0000 Pinelands Darwin Isuzu UTE (08) 8924 8600

^6 years/150,000km (whichever occurs first), for Isuzu UTE Vehicles with a Warranty Start Date on or after 1/1/19. Excludes trays & accessories. <The Roadside Assistance Program (“RSA Program”) provides Coverage to RSA Eligible Vehicles with a Warranty Start Date on or after 1/9/20 for a maximum of 7 years (unlimited kilometres). Initial 13 months Coverage provided from the Warranty Start Date. The Coverage will be reset for another 13 months from each date that a Participating Isuzu UTE Dealer conducts a Scheduled Service on the vehicle. For full terms & conditions visit isuzuute.com.au/roadside-assistance-disclaimer. >The Capped Price Servicing Program (“CPS Program”) applies to CPS Eligible Vehicles at Participating Isuzu UTE Dealers only. For 19MY & later vehicle models, the Capped Price Servicing covers the first 7 Scheduled Services for up to 7 years/105,000km (whichever occurs first). CPS Program is subject to change. For full terms & conditions, current pricing & model eligibility visit isuzuute.com.au/service-plus-disclaimer.

MAX*D Issue 29

Articles inside

Isuzu Moments

Hook, Line & Sinker

Refuel

Unsung Heroes

The List

Traveller

Cover Feature

Inside Line

Tech Head

Wishlist

News

Reader's Rides - In Focus

Reader's Rides

Welcome