Photography - Ivan Andrejic
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Rothenburg ob der Tauber Massive stone town walls studded with 42 towers; halftimberedhouses with red-tiled roofs; cobblestone streets and flower-filled window boxes: That is Rothenburg ob der Tauber, the “Red Fort on the River Tauber.” One of Europe’s most beautiful medieval towns looks like a movie set – but it is all real! Over the past 1,000 years, the narrow lanes have welcomed kingsand emperors, pilgrims and, now, international visitors. All have been – and still are – bewitched by this town, where past and present live side by side. And it is just a couple of hours’ drive from Munich or Frankfurt. Picturesque byday, the town is mysterious at night, when the night watchman’s tour leads visitors through picturesque lanes. Dressed in a black cape and a broad-brimmed hat, he carries a lantern. He speaks in English as well as German and his tales bring the past to life, from the Thirty Years War and the Plague to white gold (salt) and the Herrngasse, Rothenburg’s main shopping street. Rothenburg was also important in the past as a destination for pilgrims eager to see the precious relic at St. James’s Church: The Heilig Blut, the drop of Christ’s holy blood. This fine Gothic church is also famous for its Altarpiece of the Holy Blood. Carved in wood by the German master,Tilman Riemenschneider, its complexity and detail are as impressive now as they were five centuries ago.
Rothenburg is a delight at any time of year. In summer, nights are long and warm; in winter, the snow turns spires and rooftops into a living Christmas card. In spring, fresh flowers add color to the old stone walls; in fall, the mellow days herald the grape harvest in the local vineyards. Year-round, festivals and celebrations ensure that there is a buzz in the air. Most atmospheric is the 500-year-old Reiterlesmarkt, the Christmas market. One of Germany’s oldest and best, it sets individually-decorated stalls against a backdrop of medieval houses. The frosty air carries the tempting scent of mulled wine; unusually, this is made with local Franconian white wine. Warmer months, too, have their festivals. In the middle of August, the heart of the old town is turned into a “wine village”, where some 20 Franconian winemakers show off their wines, from Sylvaners to highly-prized ice wines. And, there is good food and music, too – of course! In early September, Rothenburg turns back the clock to medieval times, complete with costumed knights, soldiers and peasants. This annual Reichsstadt-Festtage, or Imperial City Festival, includes markets and torchlight processions, with music, thundering cannon and fireworks providing an exciting finale to each day. Then there is a play, called Der Meistertrunk, the Master Draught. This commemorates an event in 1631 involving a former mayor, an invading general and a giant goblet of wine. Legend has it that the victorious general challenged the old mayor to down seven pints of wine in one go. Failure meant execution for the citizens, but the mayor succeeded and the townsfolk were spared. (Whitsun, Friday to Monday). For the past 100 years, the Schäfertanz, Shepherds’ Dance, has been a highlight on the market square in April, May and September. As a display in St Wolfgang’s Church explains, sheep and the wool trade have been important here since medieval times.
Plönlein - “Little Square” One of the most famous postcard images from Rothenburg ob der Tauber is definitely the Plönlein. A narrow half-timbered building with a small fountain in front, it is framed by the Kobolzeller tower and the higher Siebers Tower, with lovingly restored townhouses to the right and left, creating a charmingly picturesque effect. The word “Plönlein” derives from the Latin “planum” meaning “flat square”. Both gate towers were built as part of the first expansion of the town in 1204. The Kobolzeller Tower secured the entrance to the town from the Tauber Valley. Built from dressed quarry stones, the Siebers Tower protected the southern gate until the Infirmary Quarter was incorporated within the town fortifications in the 14th century.
Marktplatz - Market Square This is the pulsating heart of the town. This is where it all happens, from the weekly market to guided tours, the historic shepherd’s dance, the fireworks as part of the town festival or performances by the Ambassadors of Music. The steps of the Town Hall are also a popular place for locals and guests from all over the world to meet and stop for a rest. From here you can enjoy the view of the splendid patrician houses that frame the market square. Every hour on the hour between 10 a.m. and 10 p.m. the clockwork figures on the clock above the Ratstrinkstube entertain the public with the key scene from the legend of the Master Draught. According to the story, former Mayor Nusch saved the town from destruction at the hands of the troops of Imperial General Tilly by winning a wager by drinking 3 1/4 liters of Franconian wine in October 1631. What is known for certain is that the women of Rothenburg and their children assembled in the Market Square to beg Tilly to spare the town. In 1632, the Market Square was once more the center of activity when the King of Sweden Gustav-Adolf stayed the night in Rothenburg with his army. The king himself stayed in the Town Hall. The most horrific event in the town’s history was in June 1525, when Count Casimir von Ansbach had 17 leaders of the recently defeated Peasants’ Revolt publicly beheaded in the Market Square. Their bodies had to be left on the square until evening, “so that the blood ran down Schmiedgasse like a stream”. Things were more peaceful at a feast in 1474, when the Emperor Friedrich III enfeoffed Holstein to King Christian of Denmark.
The Rothenburg Town Hall The Town Hall with its splendid renaissance facade dominates the Market Square. Local master-builder Leonhard Weidmann designed and built this most imposing example of renaissance architecture north of the Alps between 1572 and 1578. This was the site of a double-fronted gothic building dating from 1250, which can still be seen on one of the panels by the painter Friedrich Herlin on the main altar of the Church of St. James. While the eastern part of the building burned to the ground in 1501, the western part with the barrow bell tower has survived intact to the present day. The strictly horizontal lines of the windows and cornices are only interrupted by the simple tower and the tall corner oriel. The baroque-style arcade was added in 1681. The arms of the seven Electoral Princes decorate the arches.
Meat and Dance House You will find an interesting contrast to the architectural character of the narrow patrician houses behind the St. George Fountain. Here you will see the half-timbered gable of the “Meat and Dance Houseâ€? rise steeply into the sky. Could the building owe its unusual shape to the fact that it was built on the foundations of the old town hall, which was completely burned down in 1240? In the old days, the vaulted rooms on the top floor were a place for dancing and celebrations, while butchers sold their wares down below. In the top floor the colourful costumes for the historical reenactments are stored. If you are interested in the work of Rothenburg-based artists, the basement is just the place for you. Here you will find the exhibition space run by the members of the Rothenburger KĂźnstlerbund e.V. art collective.
Topplerschlösschen (Little Castle) Built in 1388 partly as a residence and partly as a fortress, this was the home of Rothenburg’s legendary mayor, Heinrich Toppler. Fully intact, the building is furnished with items from the 16th to the 19th centuries. Located in the Tauber Valley and accessed via the Double Bridge or Barbarossa Bridge, just about 30 minutes’ walk from the Castle Gardens.
St. James’ Church The narrow lancet windows and tall spires of the Church of St. James seem to reach towards the heavens. The most important church in Rothenburg still dominates the town’s skyline to this day. The people of the town have donated valuable art treasures and an impressive array of art works since the building was completed in 1485. These artifacts telling witness to the great importance of this place of worship for both the townspeople and pilgrims, past and present: people from all over the world still make their way here to the Church of St James as an act of pilgrimage. Make sure not to miss the church’s greatest treasure: the Altar of the Holy Blood was produced in Rothenburg between 1499 and 1505 and the representation of the Last Supper is regarded as one of the finest examples of the work of famous woodcarver Tilman Riemenschneider. He also created the St. Francis Altar in the north transept of the Franciscan Church. You should also make sure to see the Twelve Apostles Altar (Main Altar) by Friedrich Herlin which includes the oldest representation of the town of Rothenburg, and the stained glass in the East Choir. The colors are particularly bright in the morning light, unfaded by 700 years of history. As an alternative to the classic guided tour, you can also explore the Church of St. James with an audio guide. Wander among the church’s imposing gothic arches or let yourself be transported by the opulent sound of the Rieger organ as part of a church concert.
Castle Gardens The name is actually misleading because 12th century castles did not have gardens. The correct name should really be “the gardens in the place of the castle”. This is the site where the royal family of Hohenstaufen established its imperial castle in 1142. King Conrad III reigned over his kingdom from here, but was the only ruler who actually used Rothenburg Castle. As his sons died relatively early, the castle quickly lost its importance, but not before it had formed the seed for the germination of the town. Starting from the castle, the settlement spread over the hill, until it had become one of the ten largest towns in the Holy Roman Empire by the year 1400, with a population of over 6,000. An earthquake destroyed the castle complex in 1356 and the stones of the ruins a valuable commodity at the time were used to build the city walls. Only the Chapel of St. Blaise was renovated after the quake. However this building was not originally a chapel, but rather the “Upper Ducal House”, probably the conference building where the king received his guests. The building was dedicated as a chapel after the renovation and now serves as a memorial to the fallen of the two World Wars. The Chapel of St. Blaise is also the site of the memorial to the pogrom of 1298, the original of which is in the Imperial Town Museum.
Rothenburg Tower trail On the circular route around the historic old town center of Rothenburg ob der Tauber, you can enjoy a unique interplay of medieval town fortifications, panoramic landscapes, and the delights of Franconian nature. This walk will give you the best souvenir possible: a lifelong memory. And it’s free. Thanks for joining us and exploring the ramparts of Rothenburg. In the Old Town, 46 surviving towers still demonstrate the importance of Rothenburg in its heyday. Because of its wealth and relative importance in the Middle Ages, Rothenburg needed to be well-fortified. On this circular tour around the boundary of the Old Town, 40 different towers and tower gateways tell an amazing story of a remarkable city. This 4-kilometer walk (about 2.5 miles) around the Old Town can be taken in either direction. Along the route – which takes about two hours – you’ll find 22 points where information displays explain, in English and German, about the towers and gates, the fortifications, the surrounding nature and landscapes, the history of the town, and the most important visible historical structures.
Medieval Crime Museum Europe’s only museum of the law A thousand years of legal history are brought to life in the Rothenburg’s Museum of Medieval Crime, with the true horrors on show in the vaults. If you are of a bloodthirsty disposition, but still composed enough to take in the chilling details of jurisdiction, correction methods and the death penalty, then this is the perfect place for you. The impressive exhibits and detailed commentary offer an insight into the intricacies of the law that you won’t forget in a hurry. Notorious criminal cases are recorded in woodcuts and copper etchings, while there is a whole department dedicated to witchcraft and witch-hunting in Bavaria. What were court cases like in the past? What about torture and punishment? What does legal folklore mean? Are the caricatures on show meant to raise a smile or to provoke nightmares? Find out for yourself!
Christmas Museum A visit to the Christmas Museum will put you in the festive mood – even if it isn’t even Advent! The doors of the museum are open all year round. This is where the Christmas festival enjoyed by our grandparents and great grandparents is recreated. Experience the entire historic spectrum of the traditional family festival and gain a visual impression of how Christmas decorations have evolved over the years. Enjoy a “heavenly” atmosphere of enchanting Christmas tree decorations, cribs, Christmas pyramids from the workshops of the Erzgebirge, figurines and candleholders, incense burners and lots lots more. The 150 historical Father Christmas figures are something particularly special and will make every eye shine brightly, not just the children’s!
Discovering Rothenburg by Interrail Founded in 1972, Interrail has since become a symbol of unlimited rail travel throughout Europe. Providing access to more than 250.000 km of interconnected railways, Interrail now offers its customers the opportunity to travel in 30 different countries with an even greater number of transport organisations. Over the last 40 years Interrail has established itself as a provider of a unique travel experience associated with adventure, freedom and flexibility. Interrail provides a gateway to the geographical, historical and cultural richness of Europe, giving both new and seasoned travellers the chance to immerse themselves in the different cultural fabrics that make Europe such an exciting place to explore. All of this is accomplished with just one Pass, which also offers additional benefits such as discounted ferry travel, attractions and accommodation. Interrail Passes are aimed at European and Russian residents and are available as a Global or One Country Pass. Non-European residents can use Eurail passes. After originally being aimed at young adventurers, the Interrail Pass has evolved into an accessible, and unique tourism product used by over 250,000 European travellers of all ages each year.
Offering unlimited travel in either first or second class across 30 different countries, the Global Pass provides an extensive amount of choice to any traveller. This Pass is perfect not only for people who want to travel around several countries, but also for those who have not yet defined their itinerary. From the awe-inspiring landscape of Scandinavia to the secluded beaches of Greece − with the Interrail Global Pass the possibilities are endless! The Interrail Global Pass is available as a ‘Continuous’ Pass or a ‘Flexi’ Pass. Continuous Passes offer unlimited travel for 15 days, 22 days or 1 month and are suitable for those, who wish to travel widely but with maximum flexibility.
Flexi Passes, on the other hand, offer unlimited travel for either 5 days within a 15 day period, or 7 or 10 days within a 1 month period and are ideal for travellers who already have a fixed itinerary. One Country Passes are ideal for travellers who are interested in exploring a specific European country. With an Interrail One Country Pass, up to two children aged 11 years and younger can travel for free with a paying adult. Available for either first or second class, there are currently 28 different One Country Passes available under the Interrail portfolio. The ‘Benelux Pass’ in particular entitles Pass holders to travel around Belgium, the Netherlands and Luxembourg.