Photography - Ivan Andrejić
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The best of Germany There is something for everyone in Germany’s towns and cities – whether it’s the big city buzz or the famous architecture, the historic sights or the packed shopping streets, the enchanting medieval houses or the scintillating nightlife. Incredibly, there are more than 10,000 towns and cities in Germany between the North Sea and the Alps. And each one has a charm all of its own. Germany’s cities offer a wide range of experiences for cultural travellers, from medieval towns, preserved in their entirety, to carefully restored art nouveau ensembles and impressive brick Gothic and highly modern architecture. Many have been recognised as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Performance art lovers are attracted by Germany’s worldrenowned theatres, orchestras, ballet ensembles, musicals, shows and festivals, while connoisseurs of fine art can discover major exhibitions of classic and avant garde works in museums and exhibitions.
Dresden There are many ways to interpret or define culture. But it can be easily summarised with just one word: Dresden. The sheer abundance and splendour of the city’s cultural treasures are enough to take your breath away. And since Dresden also just happens to be set amidst a stunning river landscape, your amazement is soon accompanied by pure delight. Though the attribute ‘world famous’ is dished out all too readily, it is a befitting term in the case of Dresden. The city is famed not only for its three major landmarks – Zwinger Palace, Semper Opera House and the Church of Our Lady – but also for Brühl Terrace and the Royal Palace, for the Elbe palaces on the Loschwitz hillside, for the exclusive villas of Blasewitz, the garden city of Hellerau and, of course, for the twelve Dresden State Art Collections. And not forgetting the city centre’s prime position on the western bank of the Elbe, at the apex of one of the river’s gently sweeping meanders.
Bautzen Bautzen is a fairy-tale town just east of Dresden. It is the political and spiritual-cultural center of the Sorbs. It is the home of the most important cultural and political institutions of this smallest Slavic people – the Sorbs. There are several schools and a kindergarten where children and adults can learn and speak Sorbian. Over 1000 years ago Slavic tribes settled large parts of Central and Northern Germany. The founding of Budissins or Bautzen goes back to the year 1002, when the main castle of the Slav Milzene, is documented for the first time. For a thousand years now, Sorbs and Germans have been living together here in Bautzen. Today in the Lausitz there are only about 60,000 Sorbs, who have no other motherland apart from Germany. Approximately five to ten percent of the City’s population today is of Sorbian nationality. The city is committed to its German-Sorbian history and culture, and this is indicated in the first instance through the bilingual signposting of all streets and squares as well as public facilities.
Bamberg A centre of imperial and episcopal power for almost a thousand years, and often referred to as the Rome of Franconia, Bamberg stands on seven hills surrounded by beautiful countryside. Dominated by its imperial cathedral, the town is a unique and superbly maintained masterpiece of urban design, uniting medieval and baroque architecture. Bamberg’s well-preserved old town comprises three historical districts – the episcopal town, the island town and the market gardener’s town. All three are part of the UNESCO World Heritage site and provide a fascinating example of how central European towns were built up around the basic layouts established in the early Middle Ages. Bamberg was given special status as far back as 1007, when Heinrich II was building the town into a centre of episcopal and sovereign power, making it the centre of the newly founded diocese and turning it into a second Rome.
The Moselle Valley castles The Moselle Valley is the oldest wine-growing region in Germany and a diverse recreational area that offers something for every taste. When travelling along the Moselle Wine Route, visitors should definitely stop off at one of the nearby castles, many of which even host banquets and offer accommodation. Proudly enthroned above Cochem on mighty cliffs, you will find the venerable Cochem Castle (built circa 1,000 AD) with its unequalled layout, bay windows and battlements. Impregnable upon the prominent mount and rising over 100 metres above the Moselle, it is regarded as the highest hill fortress along the river. Cochem, the charming pearl of the Moselle and the romantic wine town, forms a glimmering centre point in the Moselle holiday region. This is immediately evident when approaching from Valwig — around the Brauselay and Lorelei natural sights — when you suddenly see the skyline and the town landmark, the mighty and romantic Cochem Castle, comes into view. The castle’s external contours continue to shine on the inside and culminate in the slated roof of the enormous tower. From this magnificent structure, you have an overwhelming view across the valley, as well as of more intimate sights inside, such as the Knight’s Hall, the castle chapel, the dining hall, the hunting room, the bowers and the falconry centre
Eltz Castle Eltz Castle is one of the few castles in Europe that has remained in the hands of the same family since it was built almost 900 years ago. Let yourself be enchanted by these ancient halls with their exquisite historical furnishings and family atmosphere, as you learn about life in days of old. Eltz Castle also offers relaxed and friendly restaurants, beautiful walking trails all around and a world-class treasury. It remained unscathed by wars. Its architecture has no comparison and many of the original furnishings of the past eight centuries still remain in place. There is a Treasury and Armoury boasting world-class artworks in gold and silver. It towers high on a large rock, but is still in a valley. The Eltz Forest, a nature reserve of serene beauty, full of rare fauna and flora, surrounds it. It is in the center of an attractive hiking region with the award-winning dream hike “Eltz Castle Panorama� and other walks for any level of fitness.
Rhine Valley castles Bingen and Rüdesheim form the southern gateway to the Upper Middle Rhine Valley, which runs for around 65 kilometres to Koblenz. With the beauty of nature, breathtaking panoramic views and an incredible wealth of castles and palaces overlooking sun-drenched vineyard slopes, the valley remains one of Europe’s biggest tourist attractions. For two millennia, the Upper Middle Rhine Valley has been one of the main routes for cultural exchange between southern and northern Europe – a former border, a bridge between cultures and the ultimate romantic destination. The steeply rising rock of the Loreley has always stood as a symbol of Rhine Romanticism. The beautiful siren would sit on the rock combing her golden hair – a sight that, as legend has it, lured many sailors to their death upon the rocks. This legend was recounted by Heinrich Heine in his famous song of the Loreley. The Upper Middle Rhine Valley and its romantic small towns and winegrowing villages on both sides of the river are best discovered by boat – perhaps on board the last remaining paddle steamer on the Rhine, the ‘Goethe’ – or on footpaths such as the Rhine Castles Trail or the Rheinsteig. The valley ends at the Deutsches Eck (German Corner) in Koblenz where the Moselle meets the Rhine. The best way to view this striking location is by cable car. Although the cableway across the Rhine is not a UNESCO World Heritage site itself, the trip over the river and up to Ehrenbreitstein Fortress is something not to be missed. However, if you prefer to keep your feet firmly on the ground, the Romanticum in Koblenz has an interactive exhibition depicting the beauty of the Upper Middle Rhine Valley on board a virtual steam ship.
Neuschwanstein Castle Neuschwanstein is known all over the world as a symbol of idealised romantic architecture and for the tragic story of its owner. After losing sovereignty in his own kingdom, Ludwig II withdrew into his own world of myths, legend and fairytales. Neuschwanstein Castle in southern Bavaria is without doubt one of the most frequently photographed sights in Germany. Ludwig II’s ambitious project, begun in 1869, united aspects of Wartburg Castle with those attributed to the Castle of the Holy Grail from Wagner’s ‘Parsifal’. For Ludwig, Neuschwanstein was primarily a retreat. After ascending the Bavarian throne in 1864, he was forced to cede power to the Prussians just two years later, which left him with a hatred of the royal seat of Munich. To compensate, he devoted more and more of his time to the fine arts. After his sovereignty was taken away, he withdrew into his own world of myths, legend and fairytales. Among the castle’s finest rooms are two magnificent halls. One of these, the Singers’ Hall, is a larger and more exquisite version of the same room in the Wartburg, and also incorporates elements from the medieval castle’s banqueting hall – though it never echoed to the sound of singing or festivities. The double-storey throne room reaches fifteen metres in height and is encircled by galleries on both floors. Its extravagant decorations dazzle in gold and blue. Ludwig’s great passion, however, was for the Hall of the Holy Grail, in which he united his nostalgia for the Middle Ages with the latest technology of the time. The king even chose to wallow in the Middle Ages at mealtimes – his dining room is a veritable shrine to the minnesingers’ contest at Wartburg Castle.
Tübingen Tübingen has an inviting, almost serene character that belies its status as a traditional university town. But professors and wine growers, rebellious students and locals have not always shared the same space entirely peacefully. The town of the poet Hölderlin, however, has long reconciled the traditional chimes of the town hall carillon with the raucous guitars in the clubs. Steep steps, narrow lanes and pointed gabled houses dominate the townscape from the old quarter all the way up to the castle. The lovingly restored medieval town centre, the bustling streets and the studenty vibe add plenty of character, and this is complemented by all the shops, pavement cafés, wine taverns, student bars, restaurants and inns. There is always something going on in Tübingen, hardly a surprise considering the 28,500 students that live in the town. The annual punt race around the Neckar river island guarantees plenty of riotous entertainment and is one of the most dramatic spectacles in Tübingen’s events calendar. The first team to cross the finishing line wins a keg of beer, while the losing team has to drink half a litre of cod-liver oil – a typical example of student shenanigans! The most photographed spots in Tübingen are the historical buildings overlooking the Neckar river and the market square with the town hall and Neptune fountain. Tübingen’s towering town hall was built as a three-storey building in 1435, extended upwards in 1508 and adorned with an ornate astronomical clock in 1511 that is still operational today. The German poet Friedrich Hölderlin lived here from 1807 until his death in 1843 when he was being cared for by the family of the carpenter Ernst Zimmer. At the time he had been declared mentally unfit. Nowadays, the Hölderlin tower serves as a literary memorial and museum.
Lake Constance The Lake Constance region, where Germany borders Austria and Switzerland, is a holiday paradise set around Central Europe’s third largest inland lake. The most popular excursion is to the Flower Island of Mainau, famous for its magnificent park and gardens surrounding the baroque family residence of Count Bernadotte. Discover an oasis of natural beauty, harmony and relaxation.Also on Lake Constance is the Monastic Island of Reichenau, which documents the religious and cultural role played by the large Benedictine abbey in the Middle Ages and has been inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list since 2000. The three well-preserved Romanesque churches on the island are notable examples of monastic architecture. Another site is the open-air museum of prehistoric pile dwellings in Unteruhldingen. The 23 reconstructed houses on stilts make this lost legacy of mankind visible again and immerse you in the world of the Bronze and Neolithic ages. Not far from the pile dwellings is Meersburg Castle, which offers glorious views of the lake and is the oldest castle in Germany to still function as a private residence. Its castle kitchen, armoury and banqueting hall take you back to a bygone era. Beyond the famous entrance to Lindau harbour, with the statue of the Bavarian lion and the white lighthouse, you can see the breathtaking panorama of the Alps and
Berchtesgaden Breathtaking mountain scenery, picturesque lakes and lush green forests are the hallmarks of Berchtesgaden National Park, one of the oldest conservation areas in the Alps. Situated in southern Bavaria, the park is a true paradise for active holidaymakers and those with a passion for life. With 260 kilometres of footpaths and steep mountain trails on offer, boredom doesn’t stand a chance. After a walk, you might like to cool off in Lake Königssee or order a hearty lunch at a traditional mountain lodge. In Berchtesgaden National Park, it’s not unheard of to see an ibex or a marmot, spot a rare golden eagle circling the skies or discover a dragon’s mouth flower growing at the edge of the trail. The variety of flora and fauna in the region is nothing short of remarkable. Paragliders and hang-gliders soar through the air as free as a bird. Mountain climbers enjoy the formidable challenge of Mount Watzmann, which rises to 2,713 metres. In winter, skiers and snowboarders glide across the snowy landscape.
Munich Lifestyle, joie de vivre or lebensart – whatever you call it, Munich has it in spades. It might be down to the clear blue skies or simply the city’s beauty, but one thing’s for certain: the people of Munich always like to show their best side, whether they’re in a beer garden, on one of the exclusive shopping streets, or in Bayern Munich’s stadium. A modern, cosmopolitan city with a big heart and a long heritage, as suave as it is easygoing, buzzing and yet tranquil. Munich is Germany’s lifestyle capital. You don’t have to be rich and beautiful to feel right at home in Munich, but it doesn’t hurt. Besides, these characteristics aren’t confined to strict dictionary definitions. Rich is he who has the time to leisurely amble through the splendid city centre, stopping here and there just to soak up the atmosphere. And beauty is in the eye of the beholder, after all. That said, undoubtedly one of the most beautiful squares in Germany has to be Marienplatz square – it is the heart of Munich and is home to the Old and New Town Halls. The town hall glockenspiel is as much part of Munich’s identity as the Hofbräuhaus beer hall or the iconic Church of Our Lady, whose green dome-crested towers can be seen for miles around. Browsing the stalls of the Viktualienmarkt is a feast for all the senses. There’s simply everything on offer at the city’s famous food market – from traditional Bavarian specialities to exotic delicacies. But take note, bargaining and haggling have no place in the Munich lifestyle – so don’t be tempted to try, least of all on the luxury shopping boulevards such as Ludwigstrasse, Maximilianstrasse, Kaufinger Strasse or the Tal. Everything on sale in these streets has a high price to match its high quality, from the latest fashions to wonderful antiques. For a far more affordable, not to mention more relaxed, shopping experience, head to Munich’s pub and club quarter, which is no longer confined to the trendy Schwabing district, but also extends around Glockenbachviertel, Gärtnerplatz square and Müllerstrasse.
Nuremberg A city of emperors and princes, leaders and followers, inventors and scholars, Nuremberg has mirrored German history ever since the Middle Ages – the power, the tension, great achievements and great tragedies. Protected by the castle, arts and crafts once flourished, while a new spirit of freedom enlivened the city at a time when few other places could offer such a quality of life. And the same is still true today. Nuremberg and its castle: to this day, the cityscape is dominated by the mighty fortress begun in 1140 during the reign of Emperor Conrad III and continually expanded until the 17th century. Every year, hundreds of thousands of visitors journey back in time to the early modern period and the Middle Ages – eras that live on in Nuremberg
Ulm Reaching seemingly endlessly up into the sky, Ulm Minster’s tower has watched over the city for centuries. After the Second World War, during which much of the city was destroyed, Ulm took the right approach to reconstruction. The city planners achieved a successful compromise that resulted in a unique cityscape of lovingly restored buildings on the one hand and breathtaking modernity on the other. Ulm Minster, the ‘finger of God’ with the highest church tower in the world, is the city’s predominant building. And the square on which it stands is an endlessly fascinating place that offers a great mix of historical and modern architecture. But there is definitely more to Ulm than the Minster and Münsterplatz square, and at a stone’s throw away, the beautiful town hall is one of the reasons why. The oldest part of the present building was erected in 1370 and served as a trading house. It was first mentioned as a town hall in 1419 and the ornate astronomical clock was added in around 1520.
Frankfurt Frankfurt is first and foremost a city of modernity. Business, architecture and Europe’s third-largest airport – they’re all here and they’re all at the cutting edge. Perhaps that’s why Frankfurt has grown a particular fondness for museums that vary greatly in terms of size, style and subject matter. The city prides itself on always staying ahead of the times, whilst preserving traditions at the same time. Most people associate Frankfurt with brokers, banks, stocks and shares – and they wouldn’t be wrong, but there is much more to the city than just big business. Frankfurt does, after all, have an unrivalled museum scene. The museum embankment on the southern bank of the Main is a wonder to behold, in particular the magnificent Städel Institute of Art with the Municipal Gallery. Situated in the heart of Frankfurt’s museum mile, this is of one Germany’s preeminent art galleries and features masterpieces spanning nine centuries of European art.
Freiburg Freiburg has more to offer than friendly faces alone, including one of Germany’s prettiest old quarters, with its characteristic bächle – the narrow channels of water that run alongside the pavements. Add to that a wealth of culture and history, lots of cafés and cosy bars, delicious regional food and scenic surroundings. What’s more, the overall atmosphere is easygoing, laid-back and more carefree than most. It’s almost – in a word – mediterranean. Experience it for yourself with a stroll through the old quarter overlooked by the 116-metre-tall spire of the stunning minster, one of Germany’s most beautiful religious buildings. The square on which it stands is the largest in the city centre, and hosts a market every day except Sunday. The square’s main sights are the Historical Merchants’ Hall from 1532 with its deep-red facade and colourful corner towers, the Museum of Municipal History in the Haus Zum Schönen Eck from 1761, and the Alte Wache, now the House of Badensian Wines – certainly not the worst use for this beautiful old guardhouse! The other major square in the old quarter is Augustinerplatz. Overlooked by an Augustinian abbey and the remains of the city wall, this is a popular rendezvous for locals, which probably has something to do with the stone steps that flank one side. The lively atmosphere here is strongly reminiscent of the Spanish Steps in Rome. It’s then onto Rathausplatz, location of the Old and New Town Hall, gothic St. Martin’s Church and a fountain with a statue of monk and alchemist Berthold Schwarz, who supposedly invented gunpowder here in the city. Oberlinden and Unterlinden are two rather more peaceful squares in the centre of Freiburg, and both have a beautiful old lime tree as their focal point. True Freiburg connoisseurs describe pretty little Adelhauser-Platz, which lies away from the beaten track, as the city’s loveliest square. These marvellous locations provide an ideal backdrop for the dozens of celebrations, both large and small, which take place every year in Freiburg’s old town.
Hamburg There are countless ways to discover the beguiling character of this Hanseatic trade centre that is at once steeped in tradition and at the forefront of modernity. That said, no visit to Hamburg would be complete without a boat trip around one of Europe’s biggest ports. Sightseeing boats launch from the Landungsbrücken jetties and weave their way through huge container vessels, majestic steampowered ocean liners and elegant yachts; an experience that can only be described as unforgettable. Make your visit all the more memorable with a leisurely stroll through the old town, where noble merchants once traded coffee, tea and spices. Today it’s an inviting scene of residences and grand corner buildings from the 17th to the 19th century, quaint restaurants and laid-back bars. Another reminder of Hamburg’s heritage is the historical Speicherstadt, home to the world’s largest single complex of traditional brick warehouses, resting on thousands of oak supports and intersected by narrow waterways, the Fleets. Or if you want to discover the Hamburg of today and tomorrow, head to HafenCity, one of the largest inner-city construction projects in Europe and a contrast between seafaring heritage and cutting-edge architecture in the heart of the Überseequartier.
Lüneburg Lüneburg dates back more than 1,000 years and is without a doubt one of the prettiest towns in northern Germany. Having survived the Second World War unscathed, it has retained its charming medieval character. Lüneburg is also a university town. Its large student population adds to the lively atmosphere and it is thought to have the highest concentration of pubs in the whole of Germany. The town centre is a lovely place to shop. The beautiful and historical gabled houses accommodate all kinds of specialist stores where you can browse to your heart’s content. Lüneburg dates back more than 1,000 years and is without a doubt one of the prettiest towns in northern Germany. Having survived the Second World War unscathed, it has retained its charming medieval character. Lüneburg is also a university town. Its large student population adds to the lively atmosphere and it is thought to have the highest concentration of pubs in the whole of Germany. The town centre is a lovely place to shop. The beautiful and historical gabled houses accommodate all kinds of specialist stores where you can browse to your heart’s content.
Bremen Bremen’s history goes back more than 1,200 years and is perfectly encapsulated by the baroque and Renaissance ensemble on the market square, home to the UNESCO World Heritage Town Hall and Roland statue, patrician town houses and the Schütting, Bremen’s historical guildhall. Sightseers won’t even need a map to find their way around. Two thousand nails made of brass and steel guide visitors from the courtyard of the Church of our Lady via the market square to Böttcherstrasse. Once a tradesmen’s alley, this narrow lane is now a centre for art and culture, and a jewel in the crown of European cultural history. The people here appreciate the finer things in life – internationally renowned coffee, chocolate of the highest quality, rare spices, tasty fish specialities and, of course, world-class beers. These can all be found in the city’s charming shops, where time seems to have stood still, or in more than 1,000 cafés, restaurants, bistros and bars. Just 60 kilometres downstream lies Bremerhaven, first established in 1827. From its port, millions of emigrants stole their last glance at Europe before going in search of a better life in America. Many found it, others failed. By contrast, the Harbour Worlds complex is rooted firmly in the present day. Here you will find ATLANTIC Hotel SAIL City with its bold curved design, Klimahaus® Bremerhaven 8° Ost and the German Maritime Museum – three absolute must-sees. Don’t forget to pay your respects to the Bremen Town Musicians, the world-famous characters from the Brothers Grimm fairytale. Touching the donkey’s legs is said to bring good luck, but remember to use both hands. As far as the locals are concerned, using only one hand is simply a case of two donkeys shaking hands.
Lübeck Lübeck, the undisputed Queen of the Hanseatic League, was founded in 1143 as ‘the first western town on the Baltic coast’ and provided a shining example for all the Hanseatic towns and cities along the Baltic. The medieval old town is one of the foremost examples of brick Gothic architecture and reflects Lübeck’s illustrious past as an early centre of international trade. In 1987 Lübeck’s old town became the first in northern Europe to be named a World Cultural Heritage site. Surrounded by water on all sides, it has been dominated by seven church steeples since the Middle Ages. For centuries, Lübeck’s name stood for freedom, justice and prosperity. Today, all the many Gothic, Renaissance, baroque and classical buildings, narrow lanes and streets, churches and abbeys, merchants’ houses, craftsmen’s yards and fortifications still tell of the heyday of Lübeck. Surrounded by water, the old town with the seven towers of its five principal churches brings to life 1,000 years of history and has been protected as a UNESCO World Heritage site thanks to its outstanding brick Gothic architecture.
Rügen Island Rügen is Germany’s largest island. Its 926 square kilometres contain everything you need for a perfect holiday: Baltic beaches as far as the eye can see, unspoilt natural surroundings and luxurious seaside resorts. A dream – in the middle of the Baltic. Rügen is located off the Pomeranian coast in the Baltic Sea and is one of the most popular holiday destinations in Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania. Thomas Mann and the German Chancellor Bismarck were both fans of Rügen and its seaside resorts of Binz and Sellin. The height of sophistication at the time, these resorts with their elegant luxury hotels still retain much of their nostalgic charm. Racing Roland is another nod to the past. A narrow gauge railway dating back more than 100 years, it chugs along at 30km/h, carrying holidaymakers to the individual seaside resorts. In addition to its 60 kilometres of fine, sandy beaches, Rügen has a lot to offer on the scenic-front. This includes the island’s large national parks, the famous view of the Rügen chalk cliffs (as painted by Caspar David Friedrich), sleepy fishing villages and elegant manor houses.