Future Thinking Report

IN D I V I D U A L I S M INDIVIDUALISM

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Individualism Future Thinking Report by: Isobel Plummer N0701811 Word Count: 3294

CONTENTS Introduction 06 08 11 12 14

Aims and Objectives The Methodology Introduction What is Individualism? An Evolution

Trend Drivers

Consequences

18 23 24

27 28 30 31

Digital Connectivity Self-Actualisation Polarised Worlds

Activist Culture Authenticity Self-Expression Representation

Industry Implications Possible Futures 36 40 45

Beauty Fashion Travel

49 50 51

Value Driven Identity Exploration Total Diversity

The End 52 54 56 59 62

A Conclusion References Bibliography Illustrations Fig References

CONTENTS

Aims & Objectives This report aims to identify possible futures within the trend and act as a springboard into Stage 1 by gaining expansive insight into individualism through evaluating the origins and driving forces behind it and how this has come to impact the consumer mind-set as well as different industries and their behaviours.

Conduct in-depth research using reliable secondary sources to uncover valuable insights into the trend.

Illustrate the understandings of the macro trend effectively through the use of visuals, quotes, statistics and real world examples.

Evaluate the research findings to develop applicable suggestions on how they will affect marketing and branding whilst considering future trend evolutions.

The Methodology The research conducted includes an extensive exploration into a multitude of trustworthy secondary sources to develop thorough and cohesive insights. The use of secondary sources allows for a broad scope of easily accessible material without confines of cost and time and the benefit of accessing larger scale investigations. Within this, both quantitative and qualitative sources were used. Sources relying on quantitative data used methods such as surveys, with the advantage of garnering high response rates and quantifiable results, although restrictions in validity exist with possibilities of respondents rushing answers, as well as not gaining in-depth understandings. Qualitative data is more effective in being able to dig deep, with methods including focus groups, interviews and ethnography allowing for better understandings, however, limitations of researcher bias and intimidation have the possibility of effecting results (Cresswell, 2014). To combat these limitations and achieve an unbiased investigation, information was collated from reputable sources such as peer-reviewed journals, books and trend reports where scrutiny of year published, location and credibility of publishers was utilised to evaluate the validity and reliability (Saunders, Lewis and Thornhill, 2009, p.276). The lack of primary research, however, is a drawback as there is no control over the conditions in which data is gathered and there is no guarantee of exact source relevance.

Additionally, sources such as exhibitions, podcasts, documentaries and articles were also reviewed to develop a broader awareness. This research is more individual expression based and so relies on a certain degree of bias, however has the benefit of discovering debates surrounding topics and being able to gain a cultural understanding and practical applications of the trend. Therefore, these sources have been used to show confirmation of the trends impact and not as factual data.

Introduction “Men are afraid to be beautiful, and thus choose binding suits with tight collars and heavy shoes. Women, on the other hand, are expected to have beautiful bodies that they tend and care for, bodies that they display to the public through carefully chosen dress and accessories” (Woodard, 2017). This is the perspective of Elizabeth Hawes, who between 1934 and 1970 strived to revolutionise the way society dressed and behaved, and to free people from the constraints hindering them from expressing individuality. However, there was lack of acceptance for her ideas and people weren’t ready to cross dividing lines and thus masculine power and privilege remained, serving to oppress all but a select few (Woodard, 2017). This report will analyse and assess the societal shifts that have occurred in the intervening years since Elizabeth Hawes’ attempts at revolution, and the driving forces which have paved the way for individualism to become increasingly prominent in the macro environment. Investigations will determine the trends signifigance and the ways in which this is manifesting, with a focus towards the interlinked categories of self-expression and activist culture. The report will ultimately determine what new challenges and opportunities this poses for the future, whilst making considerations towards the effects the trend has had on several industries.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Traditional values and norms prevent hundreds of millions from taking initiatives or participating in actions to change the conditions that have been recognised as detrimental to their own individualisation.â&#x20AC;? Therefore, individualism is not something that is immediate, it is a universal ideal requiring a struggle to be attained.

What Is Individualism?

Individualism concerns the spirit of the individual; a trend where freedom and personal development are applauded, and focuses on individual needs and goals rather than being homogenised in the mass market. The idea encompasses not moderating behaviour to fit group norms, but instead putting precedent on personal attitudes regardless of if they are socially warranted (Stieler, 2017, p.407). There is a focus within this on Millennial and Gen Z populations no longer confining themselves to traditional social structures of class, community and family, as new options for individual orientation, decisions and behaviour become wide spread (Genov, 2015). Themes include growing recognition of individual human rights impacting definitions of body, sexuality, gender and more. Simultaneously, however, Genov (2015) states;

“THE “THE NATURE NATURE OF OF IDENTITY IDENTITY ITSELF ITSELF IS IS IN IN FLUX” FLUX” (Euromonitor International, 2017, p.22)

An EVOLUTION Individualism is ever-evolving concept and to understand the trend, where it is now, and where it might be going, it is imperative to first explore its origins and evolution over time. This timeline highlights key moments throughout history that have reflected individualistic ideas and have led up to the trend becoming the force it is today.

1969

1920

1970s

Stonewall Riots

Women Get The Vote

Punk Subculture

1960s Invention of the Mini Skirt

Invention of Social Media

1997 YSL Creates â&#x20AC;&#x153;Le Smoking Suitâ&#x20AC;?

1966 Civil Rights Movement

1954

First Pride Parade

1972

15 15

2013

1990s

Identity Focused Fashion Photography

Gay Marriage Legalised (UK)

Black Lives Matter Movement

2013 Statement T-shirts Take Over

2017 The Eqaulity Act Introduced

2010

An EVOLUTION

TREND DRIVERS TREND DRIVERS TREND DRIVERS TREND DRIVERS TREND DRIVERS TREND DRIVERS TREND DRIVERS TREND DRIVERS TREND DRIVERS

Digital Connectivity Social media allows the world to become connected, leading to a shift in the power dynamic between brands and consumers “smart phones allow us to access product information, customer reviews, and advice from friends and family, anywhere from the dining room table to the retail environment” (Trend-Monitor, 2016). The effect is that contemporary consum-

ers are empowered by the emergence of digital technologies and have higher levels of control with demands increasing, as social media allows news to travel fast and the possibility of posts going viral which means if something isn’t up to standard, consumers can publically say. This means individuals have a voice which can more effectively make a change.

“They are no longer satisfied with being passive in their experiences with the companies; rather, they expect to be fully engaged in every stage of decision-making processes of organizations.” (Uzunoğlu, Türkel and Yaman Akyar, 2017).

19 19

20 Additionally, social media connects individuals without geographic limitations. “With online networking tools […] we’re able to connect with people quite freely and redefine ourselves online” (Blakely, 2010), meaning that individuals are no longer restricted to the expectations of their immediate surroundings, but are more able to express themselves through being

exposed to different people. This is particularly true of Gen Z who “observe the world through their smartphones, and many became highly attuned to the nuances of identity at an early age.” (Steinmetz, 2017) and thus “have become more responsive to ethical and sustainability issues” (Uzunoğlu, Türkel and Yaman Akyar, 2017). Countering this, however, is older genera-

tions not being as readily acknowledging of the trend, as age is one of the most common predictors of differences in attitudes and behaviour (Pew Research Centre, 2015) and generations like the baby boomers did not grow up with technology (Towner and Lego Munoz, 2016, p.2), making their uptake of individualistic ideas and social issues, like gay marriage (graph in fig 4), slower.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Individual empowerment is perhaps the most important mega trend

because it is both a cause and effect of most other trendsâ&#x20AC;? (National Intelligence Council, 2012, p.11).

Self Actua

23 Self-actualisation within the theory of human motivations (Maslow, 1943) displays how there is a need for individuals to reach their full potential. This has strong relations to individualism, as people are not content without becoming their true selves, with key facets of self-actualisation being “detachment from societal influences, autonomy and independence; an individual who is not bound by the expectations and opinions of others, but rather acts upon his/her own will” (Ivtzan, 2008). This demonstrates how individualism has roots within basic psychology, with people adopting individualistic natures partly due to this human desire. An updated hierarchy of needs (fig 1.) further validates this driver, as Sam Conniff puts forward the idea of selfactualisation as a “fundamental driver that crosses all the stages of the model, from basic to aspirational” (Rocca, 2018) further showing importance in individuals lives, as today, a person’s purpose and achieving fulfillment in expression of identity matters.

Self Actualisatio Self Actualisation Self Actualisation

Polarised Worlds Recent events also impact growth rate, notably the concept of polarised worlds has sped up its relevance. This notion refers to the ideology that “consumers feel disenchanted with capitalism and political leadership” (Wharry, 2018a, p.16), this includes the inauguration of Donald Trump and his policies which can be said to restrict individual freedom and the ability to be expressive.

For instance, the Trump administration is “considering narrowly defining gender as a biological, immutable condition determined solely by genitalia at birth” (Green, Benner and Pear, 2018) and thus is a threat to transgender rights and discounts the identities of millions of people. Policies like this have impact world-wide on the way individuals fight for freedom. With this, distrust in govern-

ment and brands grow, and Millennials and Gen Z use their voices to bring about change; LGBTQ+ rights, Black Lives Matter and many feminist movements rank high on the list of causes they are getting behind (WGSN, 2018) with many being directly influenced by the political climate and have allowed for messages of individualism to become more wide-spread.

T R E N D

THE

CONSEQUENCES

Activist Culture The trend has led to an age of protest, where people take to the streets to protest governments and Twitter to protest brands (The Future Laboratory, 2016); activism is at the front of mind for a broader range of people, resulting in expectations for a social conscience to be voiced in areas that may not be custom to it, from catwalks to beauty, as well as corporate brands and social influencers (Kettle, 2017). For the consumer mind-set, this means they are empowered and passionate about the causes they believe in with no problem voicing dissatisfaction, an example is “flop” accounts on social media which “have become a sounding board for calling out trespasses such as misogynistic or transphobic statements” (Flux Trends, 2018). This means critical thought about social issues is necessary when marketing, as brands that fall on the wrong side of an issue can have their mistake quickly spread (Flux Trends, 2018). This can be hugely detrimental to brand health, as consumers are ever-more value driven and desire brands which align with their personal views; “60% of Generation Z expect the brands they support to take a stand on the social issues they believe in” (Future Cast, 2017, p.18) and “70% of millennials can pay more for a product that makes an impact on issues they care about” (Kotler and Sarkar, 2018). By expressing views, however, brands risk alienating part of their consumer base who do not agree. An example is Nike’s campaign using Colin Kaepernick, a move which took a stand against President Trump leading to patriots burning products and threatening boycott. However, by taking a stance, Nike gained loyalty with progressive consumers (diagram in fig 2), and saw an increase of 31% in their online sales (Kotler and Sarkar, 2018). This demonstrates that although alienating groups is a risk, there is more reward on offer and silence isn’t an option; “Two-thirds of consumers (66%) say it’s important for brands to take public stands on social and political issues, and more than half (58%) are open to this happening on social media” (Kotler and Sarkar, 2018).

Authenticity Relating to activist culture, higher demands for authenticity arise, with consumers being able to spot bandwagon marketing. “In the eye of the consumer, there’s a fine line between supporting a movement and co-opting it, and critics are ready to pounce on even innocent mistakes.” (The Business of Fashion, 2018a) Case in point is Pepsi’s infamous Kendall Jenner ad which sparked outrage because of its lack of understanding of the Black Lives Matter movement. It is also demonstrated by how “brands are most credible when an issue directly impacts their customers (47%), employees (40%) and business operations (31%)” (Kotler and Sarkar, 2018) showing that relevance is key to overcome the pervasive scepticism among consumers in how they perceive the messages (LaBarre, 2017). Brands can show authenticity by being more consistent, and ensuring that all outputs underline their dedication to inclusivity and equality without wavering.

“It is time for brands to get a backbone and stand up for who and what they are […] Stand your ground. Don’t be timid. At a time when apology is the default position, be bold and stare your consumers in the face with confidence and conviction […] Make your point of view your point of difference.” (The Future Laboratory, 2016)

SELF EXPRESSION SELF EXPRESSION SELF EXPRESSION SELF EXPRESSION SELF EXPRESSION SELF EXPRESSION SELF EXPRESSION SELF EXPRESSION SELF EXPRESSION SELF EXPRESSION

31 Consumers increasingly value self-expression, as individualism has led society into an age where questioning conventional values is a more comfortable concept (Kettle, 2017). Through this more consumers, particularly Gen Z (diagram: fig 3), crave the ability to be authentically true to themselves and are not as constrained by tradition with a shift toward importance being placed on creativity; â&#x20AC;&#x153;uniqueness is a priority for Gen Z â&#x20AC;&#x201C; they are defined by their innate understanding of technology and talent for unhinged cultural aggregation. They are filled with fluidity and social platforms have enabled Gen Z to develop their self-confident personaâ&#x20AC;? (Wharry, 2018b) From this, there is clearly an increased desire for brands and products which enhance individuality as creativity and self-expression become essential skills (White, 2018). Moreover, it has resulted in rejecting ideas of perfection in media, traits once hidden, such as being overweight, cross-eyed or geeky, are now proudly displayed (The Future Laboratory, 2016). Brands will need to embrace this new normal and adjust message to appreciate uniqueness, rather than hiding behind Photoshop perfection (The Future Laboratory, 2016).

32 Furthermore, individualist consumers refuse to be labelled (Wharry, 2018a, p.9) which has created less focus on conventional demographic boxes (Trendwatching, 2014) as conversations around gender identity come into the forefront, meaning there is increasing demand for brands to not seclude based on demographics but instead emphasise niche interests to attract audiences (Tattersall, 2018). Within this however, exists the debate of how far fluctuating identities can go, as can the same acceptance of transgender happen for transracial? The self-identifying black woman, Rachel DoleĹžal, compares herself to Caitlyn Jenner claiming race is not â&#x20AC;&#x153;coded into you DNAâ&#x20AC;? (Euromonitor International, 2017, p.23). This sparked outrage with accusations of racism and cultural appropriation and shows that not everything that promotes elastic identity is received positively, and considerations should be made about where the line is drawn.

Representation As a by-product of self-expression, there is correspondingly greater requirements for diversity as consumers who have been underrepresented in the past are getting a greater voice (Duckett, 2017). The importance of diversity in being able to effectively engage with the young is shown by how â&#x20AC;&#x153;29% of 16-24-year-olds agree that advertising which represents social diversity appeals to themâ&#x20AC;? (Duckett, 2017). This means there is an expectation of inclusivity within stories and messages that are told as well as with the identities of models, as this is essential under individualism to engage audiences who donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t necessarily fit the straight, cisgender, white or skinny narrative.

“DEFINING PEOPLE BY RACE, GENDER OR AGE IS PASSÉ.” (Fisher, 2018)

INDUSTRY IMPLICATIONS Beauty The beauty industry is at the forefront of embracing new normals, as brands are expanding their ranges to embrace diversity and niche lifestyle choices (Fisher, 2018) and as a result are experiencing double-digit growth in challenging and saturated markets (Cosmetics Business, 2015). This has included Fenty Beauty leading the way in diversity by making shade ranges racially inclusive (Khanom, 2017), whilst Dazed Beauty sees the growing surge of unhinged self-expression by celebrating an inclusive vision on its platform (Wharry, 2018a, p.9). Most outstandingly though is a focus on gender neutrality with the incorporation of men, as make up tutorials for men are trending (Euromonitor International, 2017, p.25) and male beauty gurus James Charles and Manny Gutierrez have featured in campaigns for CoverGirl and Maybelline.

“It’s personal, it’s individual, it’s accessible. Everyone has a face, everyone has skin, everyone has a body, and everyone has an identity that is to some extent formed by the lived experience they have in those bodies. We want to reflect those experience and tell those stories. Beauty provides a toolbox, and a canvas, for people to start experimenting with the person they are becoming both inside and out.” - Dazed Beauty (Boddington, 2018)

Milk Makeup stands out as an inno- abide by the gender binary. vator in beauty by understanding “I hope the takeaway is that consumer desires for self-expresbeauty is self-expression and sion and fully incorporating incluself-expression should have sivity by casting a diverse group no boundaries […] Genderof 40 ambassadors for a campaign less beauty means exactly emphasising the beauty in origithat. We are all one of one nality and authenticity (The Future and need to learn to see each Laboratory, 2016). The campaign other that way. I am really exdismissed ideas of perfection and cited about the potential of the traditional demographic boxmakeup to help do that and es of gender, appealing to conlet us see each other and our sumers who value creativity whilst unique, individual beauty being inclusive of those who don’t better.” (Hale, 2017)

The campaign additionally tells the stories of the models featured, sharing their challenges in defining identities, showing it is beyond surface level. This sentiment is continued and they are consistent in their beliefs, as their blog features multitudes of posts discussing relevant identity and LGBTQ+ topics, demonstrating how the brand conveys authenticity to get consumers on side. “I identify as male but only because there’s no one way of defining what a man should be, I’m all about redefining masculinity, Because a man can still be a man and no less masculine for wanting to wear makeup.” (Dall’Asen, 2017)

39 39

Fashion

41 The fashion industry has been slower to innovate; though the trend’s impact has started to become visible. In 2017, designers including Dior plastered the runways with feminist messages which trickled down to the high-street. However, there is debate around whether designers were just capitalising on movements. Specifically, Topshop came under fire for removing feminist pop-ups from stores, despite claiming to believe in the cause when it was profitable (Marsh, 2018). The Nike example (p.27), however, shows how the industry has begun to more radically take stances despite risk. Furthermore, there has also been greater representation; “Racism and the lack of diversity in fashion are now being tackled with black models and celebrities leading the new wave of beauty standards” (Wharry, 2018a, p. 8) This includes models with unconventional appearances such as Slick Woods being celebrated this season, showing fashion is exploring concepts of uniqueness. Additionally, Hari Nef is a transgender model who was named one of The Business of Fashion’s (2018b) 500 shaping the industry, a fact which makes clear that fashion is impacted.

ASOS’s innovation stands out, in the past they have received praise for their inclusive sizing and anti-retouching policy which promotes uniqueness by making scars and stretch marks unashamedly visible; “We’re all about inspiring young people to express their best selves, and we celebrate the things that make us all unique. We’ll always want to bring out the best in our models, but we’re not about flawlessness or perfection.” (Asosplc.com, 2018). More recently, the brand aimed to appeal to young people typically excluded from fashion (Kiefer, 2018) through launching ‘Collusion’. Collusion puts inclusivity and creativity at its core (ASOS, 2018) by telling real stories of identity, advertisements document the lives of 100 young people in Britain who have turned or will turn 18 this year (Kiefer, 2018) and paints a

For the coming AGE unique portrait of who the modern British youth are whilst displaying an angle toward exploring identity. The clothing line also puts forward a somewhat gender-neutral perspective as some of the offerings are represented on multiple models, who additionally have distinctive appearances.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;On social media, if you are not cooing over cute panda videos

you are probably debating a hashtagged identity issueâ&#x20AC;?, (Euromonitor International, 2017, p.22).

Within travel and tourism, consumers are valuing social and local and focuses are changing from mass tourism to individual travel (Li, 2014, p.9388). This includes sites like TripAdvisor launching services with personal recommendations that help users explore authentic expressions of culture and diversity in off-the-beaten-track locations, as well as indulge individual preferences (Worthington, 2018). There have also been examples seen of activism and inclusion in travel; Marriott International, a hotel and resort company, launched ‘#LoveTravels’ a campaign that is a “celebration and support of inclusion, equality, peace and human rights” (Marriott News Centre, 2018). This reflects their beliefs and commitments, whilst telling stories of diverse travellers and displays emphasis within the industry on the personal and a move away from mass tourism.

Travel

INDUSTRY IMPLICATIONS Airbnb is significant as alongside their social and local ethos they additionally took a stand, even though it risked losing consumers, by outwardly informing members they need to declare themselves prejudice-free to continue using the service; “What is the Community Commitment? You commit to treat everyone — regardless of race, religion, national origin, ethnicity, disability, sex, gender identity, sexual orientation or age — with respect, and without judgement or bias” (The Airbnb Blog, 2016). This sentiment is relevant to their values which are focused around individualism and freedom “we’re a community of individuals. We’re powered by people of all different backgrounds and beliefs, each with our own outlook and our own story to tell” (The Airbnb Blog, 2018).

Taking this stance and following through on values with real action displayed authenticity as well as gave an activist persona which consumers could get behind. Additionally, by referring to itself as a community rather than a business (Euromonitor International, 2017, p.22) they recognise the value of the empowered consumers.

T E H F U T U R E POSSIBILITIES

Mission Driven Value Driven The Activist Culture highlights the consumer desire for brands that align with their values, with examples showing how brands are beginning to stand with causes and create opinion-based campaigns. Moving to the future, brands must aim to go beyond lip-service and transition from mission based to value oriented by displaying their ethics throughout all outputs rather than just in a singular campaign, the interweaving factor of desiring authenticity displays the need for this. This means speaking up on connected issues when they arise, standing up for beliefs regardless of backlash and building a community of empowered consumers. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Now is the time for brands to remind themselves of who they are and what they stand for: to not be watered down, battened down or redefined by consumer voices. The fear of causing offence has meant that businesses risk becoming bland propositions.â&#x20AC;? (The Future Laboratory, 2016).

Anti-perfection To Identity Exploration

Self-expression has moved the consumer mindset toward uniqueness being paramount, as ‘flaws’ become more widely celebrated rather than hidden brands increasingly adopt anti-retouching policies whilst utilising models expressing diverse qualities, such as Slick Woods and Hari Nef. There is evidence, however, that the trend is moving further along into identity exploration with consideration to the ‘who’ behind imagery and importance placed on stories of identity (Business of Fashion and McKinsey Company, 2018, p.44). This is an approach which has been adopted by innovators at ASOS and Milk Makeup which have allowed consumers to connect and resonate with campaigns based on individual expressions.

The trend consequences and industry examples display how inclusivity is critical for success and indicates a movement from political correctness toward total diversity. This means stepping beyond representation by integrating inclusion at all levels; from models to products and consumers targeted as well as behind the scenes â&#x20AC;&#x153;more diverse companies are simply more innovativeâ&#x20AC;? (Lorenzo, 2017). This shows opportunity for brands to target based on interests as opposed to demographics as consumers are increasingly adopting elastic identities (Tattersall, 2018). ASOS shows the beginning of this concept, however, there is still obstacles of gender in many offerings and so there is potential for the fashion industry to adopt the beauty industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s innovation. Milk Makeup particularly explored a no barriers approach that encompasses total diversity.

Politically Correct To Totally Diverse

A CONCLUSION A CONCLUSION A CONCLUSION A CONCLUSION A CONCLUSION A CONCLUSION A CONCLUSION A CONCLUSION A CONCLUSION

53 The report has shown that individualism is accelerating with increasing prominence in consumerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lives. The trend is allowing for the liberation of individuals from the boundaries of things like gender, while allowing for free reign of self-expression and empowerment with the notion of identity progressively becoming more flexible. These cultural shifts have additionally led consumers to respond by challenging brands to recognise the evolving attitudes with focus on the desire to align with like-minded companies. Thus, the trend shows clear room for innovation for brands within the explored sectors, as across industries individualism is already making impact, and with this reinforcement the trend will only continue to grow as perceptions of identity can further be confronted and normalised. The future of the trend may be unpredictable, however, the research within this report has led to indications of where it may be going and what opportunities for innovation lie ahead as expectations continually evolve. Therefore, the prospective futures outlined have raised questions that will act as a springboard toward Stage 1 where they will be able to be explored definitively.

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Bibliography Articles Blair, C. (2017) Cultural appropriation debate. National Post. ISSN 14868008. Bloomberg (2018). ASOS Focuses on Growing Its Genderless Offering. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www. businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/asos-focuses-on-growing-its-neutral-fashion [Accessed 4 Nov. 2018]. Boddington, R. (2018). Dazed announces new platform, Dazed Beauty, to celebrate creativity and self-expression. [online] It’s Nice That. Available at: https://www.itsnicethat.com/news/dazed-announces-dazed-beauty-digital-050918 [Accessed 7 Nov. 2018]. Brown, S. (2018). Beauty for the Boys. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/ professional/beauty-for-the-boys [Accessed 7 Nov. 2018]. Cosmetics Business. (2015). Genderless beauty set to go mainstream. [online] Available at: https://www.cosmeticsbusiness.com/ news/article_page/Genderless_beauty_set_to_go_mainstream/113910 [Accessed 4 Nov. 2018]. Dall’Asen, N. (2017). Others identify as masculine, and use makeup to challenge what that means.. [online] Revelist.com. Available at: https://www.revelist.com/beauty-news-/milk-makeup-gender/7071/others-identify-as-masculine-and-use-makeup-to-challenge-what-that-means/6 [Accessed 7 Nov. 2018] Fisher, L. (2018). Buying into Feminism: When Fashion Designers Sell Politics Alongside Their Clothes. [online] Harper’s BAZAAR. Available at: https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/fashion-week/a19631581/politics-on-the-runway/ [Accessed 4 Nov. 2018]. Flux Trends. (2018). Brand Backlash - The Flip Side of Brand Activism - Flux Trends. [online] Available at: http://www.fluxtrends. com/brand-backlash-flip-side-brand-activism/ [Accessed 3 Nov. 2018]. Green, E., Benner, K. and Pear, R. (2018). ‘Transgender’ Could Be Defined Out of Existence Under Trump Administration. [online] Nytimes.com. Available at: https://www.nytimes.com/2018/10/21/us/politics/transgender-trump-administration-sex-definition. html [Accessed 1 Nov. 2018]. Hale, J. (2017). Milk Makeup’s New Campaign Blurs Gender Lines. [online] Bustle. Available at: https://www.bustle.com/p/milkmakeups-blur-the-lines-campaign-encourages-diverse-gender-expression-through-makeup-42531 [Accessed 4 Nov. 2018]. Hosie, R. (2018). What is cultural appropriation - and why it is a very real problem. [online] The Independent. Available at: https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/cultural-appropriation-appreciation-difference-meaning-fashion-examples-chinese-prom-dress-a8332176.html [Accessed 3 Nov. 2018]. Hynes, C. (2017). Rachel Dolezal’s pick-your-race policy works brilliantly – as long as you’re white | Claire Hynes. [online] The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2017/mar/27/rachel-dolezal-race-white [Accessed 3 Nov. 2018]. Kettle, J. (2017). Influencers and the Self-Love Message. [online] WGSN Insider. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/influencers-and-the-self-love-message/ [Accessed 2 Nov. 2018]. Khanuja, K. (2017). SELF EXPRESSION: The new currency in fashion. [online] LinkedIn. Available at: https://www.linkedin.com/ pulse/self-expression-new-currency-fashion-kanika-khanuja/ [Accessed 2 Nov. 2018]. Kiefer, B. (2018). Asos and Uncommon break fashion conventions with inclusive clothing label. [online] Campaignlive.co.uk. Available at: https://www.campaignlive.co.uk/article/asos-uncommon-break-fashion-conventions-inclusive-clothing-label/1495009 [Accessed 4 Nov. 2018]. Kotler, P. and Sarkar, C. (2018). Stand for Something: Brand Activism at Nike. [online] Marketingjournal.org. Available at: http:// www.marketingjournal.org/stand-for-something-brand-activism-at-nike-christian-sarkar-and-philip-kotler/ [Accessed 2 Nov. 2018]. LaBarre, S. (2017). The Radical Future Of Branding. [online] Fast Company. Available at: https://www.fastcompany.com/3066981/ the-radical-future-of-branding [Accessed 4 Nov. 2018]. Marsh, S. (2018). The gender-fluid generation: young people on being male, female or non-binary | Sarah Marsh and Guardian readers. [online] The Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2016/mar/23/gender-fluid-generation-young-people-male-female-trans [Accessed 25 Oct. 2018]. Marsh, S. (2018). Topshop’s Philip Green under fire over axing of feminist book display. [online] the Guardian. Available at: https:// www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/oct/05/topshop-axes-penguin-pop-up-to-promote-feminist-book-in-store [Accessed 4 Nov. 2018].

57 Pew Research Center. (2015). The Whys and Hows of Generations Research. [online] Available at: http://www.people-press. org/2015/09/03/the-whys-and-hows-of-generations-research/ [Accessed 4 Nov. 2018]. The Business of Fashion. (2018a). Fashion Got Woke. But at What Cost?. [online] Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/ articles/professional/fashion-got-woke-but-at-what-cost [Accessed 25 Oct. 2018]. The Business of Fashion. (2018b). Hari Nefis One of the 500 People Shaping the Global Fashion Industry in 2018. [online] Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/hari-nef [Accessed 4 Nov. 2018]. Trend-Monitor. (2016). The Empowered Consumer - Trend-Monitor. [online] Available at: https://trend-monitor.co.uk/the-empowered-consumer/ [Accessed 24 Oct. 2018]. White, L. (2018). The Vision 2019: The most influential trends for next year- WGSN Insider. [online] WGSN Insider. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/vision-2019-influential-macro-trends-next-year/ [Accessed 2 Nov. 2018].

Books Bauman, Z. (2013). The Individualized Society. Hoboken: Wiley. Creswell, J. (2014). Research design. Los Angeles: SAGE Publications. Davis, F. (2008). Fashion, culture, and identity. Chicago: Univ. of Chicago Press. Genov, N. (2015). Challenges of individualisation. UNESCO. Kim, Heejung & Q Chu, Thai. (2018). Culture & Self-Expression 1 Cultural Variation in the Motivation of Self-Expression. University of California Santa Barbara McCracken, G. (2008). Transformations : Identity Construction in Contemporary Culture. Bloomington: Indiana University Press. Saunders, M., Lewis, P. and Thornhill, A. (2009). Research methods for business students. 5th ed. Harlow (Essex): Pearson. Stieler, M. (2017). Creating marketing magic and innovative future marketing trends. Springer.

Documentaries Legends and Pioneers (2018). Black Hollywood: ‘They’ve Gotta Have Us’, Episode 1. [TV] BBC Two, 13 October 2018. Queer and Proud (2017). Queer Britain, Episode 6. [TV] BBC Three, 11 June 2017. Transgender Rights (2018). Generation Activism, Episode 4. [TV] BBC Three, 25 October 2018.

Exhibitions Aristizábal, I., Cooper, R., Fauq, C. (2018) Still I Rise: Feminisms, Gender, Resistance [Act 1]. Exhibition held at Nottingham Contemporary, 27 October 2018 – 27 January 2019.

Journals Anon (2015) White is the new black; The Rachel Dolezal case. The Economist, 415(8943), pp. 30. Anon (2018) Retailers Large and Small Take the Spear in Political Activism. Bicycle Retailer and Industry News, 27(4), pp.30. Ivtzan, I. (2008). Self Actualisation: For Individualistic Cultures Only?. international journal on humanistic ideology, 1, Pp.111-138. Li, Y. (2014). Effects of Story Marketing and Travel Involvement on Tourist Behavioral Intention in the Tourism Industry. Sustainability, 6(12), pp.9387-9397. Maslow, A. (1943). A theory of human motivation. Psychological Review, 50(4), pp.370-396. Ogihara, Y. and Uchida, Y. (2014). Does individualism bring happiness? Negative effects of individualism on interpersonal relationships and happiness. Frontiers in Psychology, 5. Steinmetz, K. (2017). ‘Generation Z Finds the Upside to Growing Up Amid Total Disruption’, Time, 190(27/28), pp. 66–67. Tattersall, H. (2018). Fluid Fashion. The Australian Financial Review, 26. Towner, T. and Lego Munoz, C. (2016). Boomers versus Millennials: Online Media Influence on Media Performance and Candidate

Evaluations. Social Sciences, 5(4).

Uzunoğlu, E., Türkel, S. and Yaman Akyar, B. (2017). Engaging consumers through corporate social responsibility messages on social media: An experimental study. Public Relations Review, 43(5), pp.989-997. Woodard, J. (2017). Skirts for Men!: Elizabeth Hawes and Challenging Fashion’s Gender Binary. The Journal of Popular Culture, 50(6), pp.1276-1292.

Lectures Blakely, J. (2010). Social Media and the End of Gender. [TEDWomen Talk] December 2010. Lorenzo, R. (2017). How Diversity Makes Teams More Innovative. [TED@BCG] October 2017. Wharry, G. (2018b). The Future of Influence. [Lecture to Fashion Marketing and Branding, Nottingham Trent University]. 29 October.

Podcasts Do We Really Want Change? (2017). Under The Skin [Podcast], 22 July 2017.

Reports Business of Fashion and McKinsey & Company (2018). The State of Fashion 2018. [online] p.44. Available at: https://cdn.businessoffashion.com/reports/The_State_of_Fashion_2018_v2.pdf [Accessed 24 Oct. 2018]. Duckett, J. (2017) Diversity: Ensuring marketing remains meaningful. [online] Mintel. Available at: http://academic.mintel.com/ display/815345/?highlight [Accessed 3 November 2018]. Euromonitor International. (2017). Identity in Flux: A Top Consumer Trend for 2017. [online] Available at: https://blog.euromonitor. com/identity-in-flux-a-top-consumer-trend-for-2017/ [Accessed 24 Oct. 2018]. Fisher, A. (2018) Personalisation in Beauty. [online] Mintel. Available at: http://academic.mintel.com/display/859219/ [Accessed 3 November 2018]. Future Cast (2017). Getting to Know Gen Z: How The Pivotal Generation is Different From Millennials. [online] Millennial Marketing. Available at: http://www.millennialmarketing.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/FutureCast_The-Pivotal-Generation-7.pdf [Accessed 3 Nov. 2018]. Khanom, R. (2017). Fenty Beauty: Targeting Women of All Colours. [online] Mintel. Available at: http://academic.mintel.com/display/856163/ [Accessed: 4 November 2018] Kasriel-Alexander, D. (2017). Top 10 Global Consumer Trends for 2017. [online] Euromonitor International, pp.19-25. Available at: http://go.euromonitor.com/rs/805-KOK-719/images/wpTop10GCT2017EN.pdf [Accessed 24 Oct. 2018]. National Intelligence Council (2012). Global Trends 2030: Alternative Worlds. [online] pp.9-13. Available at: https://globaltrends2030. files.wordpress.com/2012/11/global-trends-2030-november2012.pdf [Accessed 24 Oct. 2018]. Rocca, M. (2018). The Buzz: Rethinking Basic Human Needs. [online] WGSN. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_ viewer/#/81403/en/page/1 [Accessed 1 Nov. 2018]. The Future Laboratory (2016). Backlash Culture. Trend Briefing 2016. [online] Available at: http://info.thefuturelaboratory.com/ hubfs/Backlash_Culture.pdf?submissionGuid=ff74383b-4da9-4dd1-9c0c-89401065bb5d&submissionGuid=f80ec158-d7d7-4747b7e7-caf4c9f295fd [Accessed 3 Nov. 2018]. TrendWatching. (2014). POST-DEMOGRAPHIC CONSUMERISM - TrendWatching. [online] Available at: https://trendwatching. com/trends/post-demographic-consumerism/ [Accessed 3 Nov. 2018]. Wharry, G. (2018a). 2019 Insights: The Age of Sentiment. [online] Available at: https://now.ntu.ac.uk/d2l/le/content/553681/viewContent/2868381/View [Accessed 1 Nov. 2018]. Worthington, J. (2018). Short and City Breaks. [online] Mintel. Available at: http://academic.mintel.com/display/859335/?highlight [Accessed 4 Nov. 2018].

Videos WGSN (2018). Gen Z: Political Power. [video] Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/gen-z-political-power/ [Accessed 1 Nov. 2018].

Websites

ASOS. (2018). INTRODUCING COLLUSION, EXCLUSIVE TO ASOS. [online] Available at: https://www.asos.com/women/fashionfeed/2018_10_17-wed/collusion-is-here/ [Accessed 4 Nov. 2018]. Asosplc.com. (2018). Mind & Body. [online] Available at: https://www.asosplc.com/corporate-responsibility/our-customers/mindand-body [Accessed 4 Nov. 2018]. Marriott News Center. (2018). Marriott International Launches #Lovetravels Beyond Barriers To Provide $500K To Groups And Individuals Advocating For Inclusion, Equality, Peace And Human Rights - Marriott News Center. [online] Available at: http:// news.marriott.com/2018/09/marriott-international-launches-lovetravels-beyond-barriers-to-provide-500k-to-groups-and-individuals-advocating-for-inclusion-equality-peace-and-human-rights/ [Accessed 5 Nov. 2018]. Milkmakeup.com. (2018a). About Us. [online] Available at: https://www.milkmakeup.com/about-us.html [Accessed 4 Nov. 2018]. Milkmakeup.com. (2018b). Live Your Look. [online] Available at: https://www.milkmakeup.com/vibes [Accessed 4 Nov. 2018]. The Airbnb Blog. (2016). The Airbnb Community Commitment. [online] Available at: https://blog.atairbnb.com/the-airbnb-community-commitment/ [Accessed 4 Nov. 2018]. The Airbnb Blog. (2018). Belong Anywhere. [online] Available at: https://blog.atairbnb.com/belong-anywhere/ [Accessed 4 Nov. 2018].

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