One Step at a Time

Zambia has been forging the path towards sustainable tourism for decades. In the 1950s, a British man named Norman Carr pioneered a forward-thinking concept here: to promote conservation and local empowerment through tourism. Before long, his innovative approach and lowimpact walking safaris were embraced across Africa.

Words: EMILY OPIE

Zambia is simultaneously spectacular and humble. It’s home to Kafue National Park, one of Africa’s largest and oldest protected areas covering over 5.5 million acres. The famous Mosi-oa-Tunya (Victoria Falls) cascades across its southern border, fed by the meandering Zambezi river. And it has played a hugely influential role in the history of conservation.

An incredibly diverse array of wildlife can be found across Zambia’s vast swathes of protected areas. All of the Big Five reside here, and safari-goers are likely to see massive herds of elephants, hundreds of species of birds and endless other animals. Its seemingly infinite savannahs set the scene for exhilarating experiences.

Part of Zambia’s allure as a safari destination is due to its large collection of national parks (20 at the last count) and private reserves, which are central to conservation. Kafue and South Luangwa are known for sightings of the notoriously elusive leopard, while South Luangwa and Liuwa Plain host healthy populations of endangered African wild dogs.

Thanks to Zambia’s successful breeding programs, small numbers of both black and white rhinos can now be found in the parks of Mosi-oa-Tunya and North Luangwa. They were reintroduced here after being declared completely extinct in 1998, primarily due to poaching.

The grasslands, wetlands, rivers and forests that make up Zambia’s landscapes are breathtakingly wild and rugged. This beauty is only intensified by its remoteness; far from the crowds, safaris here feel more personal and attuned to the surroundings.

The concept of a safari that works in harmony with the environment was pioneered here by the British conservationist Norman Carr. He implemented a groundbreaking approach to sustainable safari practices in the 1950s, and its influence can still be seen in Zambia's tourism industry today.

A history of hunting

Today, more than 40% of Zambia’s land is protected by national parks and reserves, creating an abundance of natural wildlife havens. But this hasn’t always been the case. In the early 1900s, there was a troublesome tourism trend that threatened the natural equilibrium: hunting safaris.

During this era, people travelled to Zambia (and many other parts of Africa) for trophy hunting. They coined the term ‘Big Five’ as they set out to prove their bravery by slaying the strongest creatures. In addition to their ethical implications, these unregulated hunting safaris gravely endangered fragile ecosystems and the species that inhabited them.

The hunting safaris of the 1900s also had negative social implications, as they often exploited local residents. There are reports of hunters offering enticing financial incentives to local leaders in exchange for permission to hunt on their land – leaving long-term sustainability and conservation out of the question.

That’s where Norman Carr came in. He challenged this paradigm and attempted to shape safari tourism into a positive force. In his view, wildlife conservation and tourism didn’t have to be at odds; in fact, they could be mutually beneficial.

Who was Norman Carr?

Norman Carr was born in 1912 in the British concession of Chinde, part of modern-day Mozambique. After completing his education in England, he returned to Africa in 1930. Over the next several years he worked as an elephant control officer, a captain in the King’s African Rifles and a game ranger in the Luangwa Valley (then Northern Rhodesia).

Although Carr’s vision of sustainable safari tourism was innovative, the concept of conservation wasn’t new. Africa’s first national park was established in 1925 in Virunga (then the Belgian Congo) to protect mountain gorillas – nearly 25 years before Carr began his own sustainable safari mission in Zambia.

During the late 1940s Carr worked with Chief Nsefu of the Luangwa Valley, convincing him to allow tribal territory to be part of a conservation zone that would later become South Luangwa National Park. Nsefu Camp was built in the conservation area and became the first safari camp in modern-day Zambia to promote Carr's vision of sustainable tourism. In an effort to support local residents and pay them back for the use of their land, Carr ensured that proceeds from Nsefu Camp went to the local community. He continued this support for the rest of his life, most notably through his Kapani School Project. Carr was completely at home in the wilderness. His years of experience afforded him a deep understanding of nature and a unique connection to it. His goal was to protect wildlife and habitats, but he also wanted travellers to learn about the natural world while minimising their impact on the environment.

To this end, Carr decided to share his own regular ‘bush walks’ with guests at Nsefu Camp, making them a regular part of the camp’s activities – and they proved to be a resounding success.

Leave only footprints

The low-impact walking safari encapsulates the essence of a sustainable safari activity. Feeling the ground beneath your feet, letting your senses come alive and treading carefully through nature is often the highlight of any wildlife adventure.

Until Carr introduced his bush walks, safaris had almost always involved vehicles. This ingeniously simple concept made it possible for an intense experience to leave only a light footprint. It was a tremendously positive development – and not only in terms of sustainability.

Norman Carr’s bush walks eventually turned into the walking safaris we know today. Along with neighbouring Zimbabwe, Zambia is now considered to be the ultimate walking safari destination – thanks not only to its incredible wildlife and landscapes, but also to the nostalgic spirit and legacy that Carr left behind, which are still palpable decades later.

Despite the success of walking safaris, classic game drives remain popular. This is partly because of their convenience; a jeep makes it possible to cover a lot of ground quickly and get close to wildlife safely, with an accelerator pedal at the ready to speed away if needed.

However, jeeps can also disrupt the land and wildlife. Many safari camps make an effort to minimise these negative effects by operating with care and consideration, but there’s no denying that a walking safari makes a much more gentle impact.

The aim of any safari is to see incredible wildlife, but a walking safari takes the experience to another level. It offers a heightened sense of meaning and connection to the land, animals, guides, trackers and fellow travellers. Following the trails of large animals gives you an inside look at how they interact with their environments.

Moving slowly on foot presents an opportunity to notice minute details and smaller species like insects, reptiles and birds. With no engine noise to stifle the sounds of nature, it’s possible to hear rushing wind, birdsong, flowing rivers, the sound of an elephant’s ears flapping or a set of tiny impala hooves on the hard earth as they rush back to the herd.

Guides, rangers and travellers are more vulnerable while on foot, away from the relative safety of the jeep. This makes communication and understanding especially vital in order to safely and respectfully explore the habitats of some of Africa’s largest animals.

There’s an enormous sense of responsibility for one another while on a walking safari, as well as an emphasis on our responsibility to respect the world around us. And ultimately, there’s no better way to gain first-hand insights and knowledge from an experienced guide.

A lasting legacy

Norman Carr’s walking safaris have continued to shape the face of safari tourism in Zambia, Zimbabwe and many of Africa’s other wildlife hubs. Traversing these ancient lands on foot is one of the most authentic and sustainable ways to explore and engage with them.

This is an attractive prospect for many wildlife enthusiasts. The demand to get out of the jeep and onto two feet has been met by many camps and lodges all over East and Southern Africa that now offer walking safaris.

When we combine travellers’ desire to witness incredible wildlife with Carr’s conservation values, protecting natural habitats for future generations becomes an inspiring possibility. Walking safaris are a shining example of sustainable simplicity. By taking away the jeep, the fuel, the speed and the checklist of big game sightings – even for just one moment during a multi-day trip filled with activities – it’s possible to enhance a wildlife experience while protecting nature at the same time.

Want to explore Zambia on foot? Get in touch with our Africa team to start planning. → victoriasaner@jacadatravel.com