Riding the Wave

Located less than an hour apart on Portugal’s Silver Coast, Nazaré and Peniche have plenty in common. They’re both traditional fishing towns that are home to world-famous waves, which have put them on the map within the surfing community. And as more people discover these destinations, they’re both being transformed by the power of the sea.

Words: MELISSA HAUN

The sun has barely risen, but people are already congregating on the cliffs. They stake out their spots and stare at the sea, wrapped in blankets and clutching cups of coffee. It’s a chilly morning in October, and a massive swell is on its way to Nazaré. In this tiny Portuguese town, a big swell means giant waves – sometimes more than 20 metres high. When the conditions are just right, people from across the globe gather on these cliffs, squinting out at the water to watch the world’s best big wave surfers make history.

Just down the coast, the town of Peniche has its own legendary waves. Here, however, they’re rarely more than a few metres high. Once a year, crowds descend on the sand of Supertubos beach to watch the Rip Curl Pro Portugal surf competition.

The surrounding area is also known as one of Portugal’s best places to learn the sport. Surf camps and schools are everywhere, creating a distinctive culture that stands in sharp contrast to the town’s traditional identity; Peniche, like Nazaré, is an old fishing village at heart.

Both can be characterised as towns in transition: from a history dominated by fishing to a future where surf tourism reigns supreme. But for the moment, these two industries exist side by side – and that’s part of what makes this region such a fascinating place.

The Silver Coast

These days, Portugal often tops lists of the best places to travel. Millions of tourists come for its beaches, culture and cuisine – not to mention more than 300 days of sun per year. Most visitors head straight for Lisbon or Porto, the two largest cities and major tourist destinations.

Right in between these cities is where you’ll find the Centro (Centre) region and its stretch of coastline known as the Costa de Prata (Silver Coast). Around 240 kilometres long, the Silver Coast encompasses several beach towns that have long been favoured by the Portuguese for their summer holidays. But the area has only recently begun to attract international attention.

Until the past decade or so, the towns of Nazaré and Peniche were mostly known for their fishing industries. Seasonal tourism supplemented the local economies, but for the majority of the year the focus was on fishing. In the last several years, however, the popularity of both towns has skyrocketed – thanks in no small part to surf-related tourism.

Peniche’s past and present

On a small side street in the town of Peniche, a large mural depicts two men’s faces, spliced down the middle to create a single portrait. It reads, ‘A past of fishermen, a future of surfers.’ That’s the motto of Waterlost, a local brand founded by a surfer who descends from a long line of fishermen, and it encapsulates the town’s transformation.

Peniche is home to a bustling harbour, a fish market and multiple canneries where Portugal’s famous conservas are produced. It was also a hub of industrial whaling until the practice was banned in the 1980s. Fishing is still a central part of the local economy and the strong scent of raw seafood emanating from its industrial area serves as a constant reminder of this.

Hundreds of years ago, Peniche was an island. Over time the water and wind formed dunes between it and the mainland, transforming it into a peninsula with sweeping beaches stretching away on both sides. This is a surfer’s dream come true; the long and curving coastline means that no matter the conditions, there are always waves somewhere.

Since 2010, Peniche has hosted the Rip Curl Pro Portugal, an event on the World Surf League Championship Tour. It takes place on Supertubos beach, which is named after the huge tubos, or barrels, that form under certain conditions. The competition draws spectators in droves; in 2023, more than 51,000 people attended.

But Peniche isn’t just for the pros. Throughout the year, amateur surfers flock to its dozens of beach breaks to catch beginner-friendly waves. The adjacent towns of Baleal and Ferrel have blossomed with surf schools, shops, hotels, restaurants and bars catering to this particular type of tourism, which is centred around the sea.

Tourism and tradition

Not everyone who visits Peniche comes for the waves. It’s also known for beautiful beaches and the picturesque Berlengas islands, which are just a short boat ride away. But these attractions are most popular in summer, creating a pattern of seasonal tourism that used to leave the town relatively empty for the rest of the year.

Surfing, however, is a year-round sport. In fact, surf conditions are generally better here during the colder months; the most recent WSL events were held in March and October. This has added a new and lucrative angle to the local economy, extending the tourism season and making Peniche much more than a summer holiday spot.

As a result, it often feels like the town has a foot in two worlds. There’s a stark contrast between the traditional fishing culture and the modern tourism industry. The harbour and old town feel straight out of Portugal’s past, while in other areas you’ll find trendy cafés and a rotating population of international tourists and expats. Despite all of this, it seems that the city has managed to retain its identity while embracing the opportunities that tourism brings. Peniche can no longer be defined as just a fishing town, but it’s also much more than a tourist destination. As its reputation shifts and expands, its history and personality – along with its unmistakable scent – stubbornly remain.

As a result, it often feels like the town has a foot in two worlds. There’s a stark contrast between the traditional fishing culture and the modern tourism industry. The harbour and old town feel straight out of Portugal’s past, while in other areas you’ll find trendy cafés and a rotating population of international tourists and expats. Despite all of this, it seems that the city has managed to retain its identity while embracing the opportunities that tourism brings. Peniche can no longer be defined as just a fishing town, but it’s also much more than a tourist destination. As its reputation shifts and expands, its history and personality – along with its unmistakable scent – stubbornly remain.

Nazaré’s new dawn

Just a 45-minute drive north is the town of Nazaré. Its name is Portuguese for ‘Nazareth’, reflecting its religious origins and traditional character. Like Peniche, this is an old fishing village. Brightly painted wooden boats dot the beach, and locals sometimes dress in old-fashioned fishermen’s clothing that pays homage to the past.

A steep hill descends to Nazaré’s beachfront area, where the main tourist strip runs parallel to the sea. Here you might see fishermen’s wives supervising salted sea creatures strung up to dry in the sun. On one side, dramatic cliffs loom over the town. You can ascend them in an ancient funicular to reach the lofty village of Sítio and its famous lighthouse. The lighthouse perches at the very tip of the cliff, overlooking the legendary Praia do Norte. Straight ahead, an enormous underwater canyon lurks beneath the ocean’s surface – and this geological marvel is what creates the gigantic waves that make Nazaré much more than your average fishing town.

Winter waves

The surf culture of Nazaré is strikingly different from that of Peniche. Big wave surfers only show up here when there’s a good swell – and that’s a relatively rare occurrence. You won’t find as many surf schools either; beginners might brave the waves on calmer days, but the main attraction is to watch world-class athletes conquer the giants.

Surf conditions are notoriously unpredictable, which means that official big wave competitions are usually announced just a few days in advance. Once the word is given, surfers and spectators from around the world drop everything and head to Portugal at a moment’s notice, inundating Nazaré with thousands of visitors – and earning it a global reputation.

This relatively new aspect of Nazaré’s identity has already transformed the town. It was only 2010 when people discovered that its massive waves were actually surfable. Since then, Nazaré has received an enormous influx of international attention. And even when the water is flat, tourists converge on the lighthouse and its tiny museum dedicated to big wave surfing.

Like that of Peniche, Nazaré’s economy has long been bolstered by a rush of seasonal visitors. But the rise of surf tourism has made the former low season just as busy as the summer – if not more so. The best months for big waves are November to March, and that’s when the largest crowds cover the cliffs above Praia do Norte.

This once-quiet fishing community is becoming a high-profile destination – and yet its original essence has largely been preserved. The magic of Nazaré is in the way it proudly maintains tradition, while capitalising on its unique appeal to a new generation of surfers and travellers.

Where old and new collide

At first glance, Peniche and Nazaré seem to be engaged in a process of cultural transition. Around one corner you might see a weathered fisherman or a woman carefully mending a net; around another, you could spot a tourist shakily catching their first wave or a pro surfer making it look easy.

These two contrasting worlds exist at the same time. And while it might be tempting to characterise one as the past and the other as the future, the truth is that they’re both the present. Only time will tell if Peniche and Nazaré can maintain this balance, but for now they’re shining examples of how two seemingly contradictory realities can coexist.

There’s no denying that tourism – and surf tourism in particular – is shaping these communities. Every individual who visits Peniche or Nazaré is making an impact on its identity, and that can be a wonderful thing when done right. If visitors respect the traditional culture as much as locals do, it may be possible to embrace the new without erasing the old.

Tied together by the tides

Perhaps the reason that Peniche and Nazaré are able to simultaneously define themselves as fishing towns, beach resorts and surfing havens is that all of these things share a common thread: an enduring reliance on and respect for the ocean. The sea has always been at the heart of their identities – and it still is, albeit in new and unexpected ways.

The water is what ties together these towns’ past and future, from fishing and whaling to sunbathing and surfing. And whether you’re casting a net, going for a swim or riding a wave, it’s safe to say that you’re experiencing a splash of the Silver Coast’s authentic essence.