Into the Mountains

Cross borders, climb high, uncover incredible cultures and become mesmerised by unbelievably beautiful landscapes as you adventure among towering peaks. Welcome to the Himalayas.

Words: EMILY OPIE

The himalayas are the Indian Subcontinent's land of giants. Made up of intricate mountain systems and colossal peaks that reach into the heavens, piercing the skies with grey granite cliffs and icy white summits. Inhospitable and extreme, the Himalayas are as majestic as they are unforgiving.

Beneath the snow-capped highs and angular inclines lie welcoming landscapes of lush green valleys, rushing rivers and winding roads that lead to villages and towns. Yaks graze lazily on peaceful slopes as the sounds of tingsha (Tibetan bells) echo dully from monasteries. Brightly coloured prayer flags reach out in all directions and the sung mantra of Om Mani Padme Hum murmurs quietly on radios in shops and markets.

The Himalayas are the perfect place for high-altitude hiking. But, delve a little deeper and these mountains cradle numerous slower-paced and gentle experiences. Take time out from summits and peaks and you’ll discover hammocks swaying in the breeze, emerald green terraces of rice paddies, intriguing forest pathways, busy markets, hundreds of monasteries and temples and a strong culture that’s inherently tied to the natural world.

Bhutan calling

To explore Bhutan’s mountainous regions is to visit Paro and the sacred Taktsang Palphug, known as Tiger’s Nest. Bhutan's unofficial national symbol is a monastery perched high on a cliff face, inaccessible by roads and hugely significant spiritually to Buddhists. White walls rise out of the rock face and red-rimmed windows sit below a series of ornate gilded gold pagoda roofs. Tiny squares of blue, white, red, green and yellow are strung across pathways, sending prayers on the wind.

The hike to Tiger’s Nest is no mean feat. High altitude (it sits around 3000 metres above sea level) will force you to go slowly along the trail of steep stairways and past staggering viewpoints. Along the path there are intertwined glimpses of the monastery, and the mountains and caves it belongs to. Completing the hike, which can take between five and seven hours, and entering the monastery reveals the deep connection between the Buddhist religion and the Himalayas.

Tiger’s Nest embodies spirituality, cultural heritage and peace, themes that are echoed throughout Bhutan, where legends and beliefs often trace back to the mountains. Take the Haa Valley, southwest of Paro, Bhutan's smallest and most remote dzongkhag (a state or county), where most people make their livelihoods from the land, either in rice production or yak herding.

The surrounding mountains are considered auspicious and significant in Haa because, according to folklore, ‘labourers of the hills’ appeared from the high peaks, constructed the revered Lhakhang Karpo (White Temple) and then miraculously disappeared. Guided tours of the imposing temple are fascinating. Parts of the old building date back to the 7th century, making it one of the oldest constructions in Bhutan. It’s also a school and the venue of the Haa summer festival, where thousands of residents come to watch masked dancing that honours the valley's deities.

The legends of the Haa mountains continue along the Meri Puensum nature trail where you can learn about the Three Sister Hills (or Three Brothers Hills). The hills are believed to be the home of Ap Chengdu, Haa's protective deity, or are seen as the embodiments of gods Jampelyang, Chana Dorji and Chenrizi. The full-day nature trail is challenging yet rewarding, passing by streams, tiny prayer flag-laden bridges, to the spectacular viewpoint of the three hills and the Chelela Pass.

Remote and isolated, Haa lends itself well to explorations by bicycle. Many routes can be adapted to different levels. There’s plenty of opportunity for gentle days of cycling on the valley floor, tracking through villages, farms and meadows with brilliant rhododendrons and conifer forests of fir, pine, cypress and cedar on the higher slopes.

There aren’t many hotels in Haa, so most travellers visit from Paro, where there’s a collection of beautiful places to stay. Many of these properties, such as the Six Senses Paro, pledge to take care of Bhutan by committing to sustainable practices such as energy and water management, and in the way they care for and engage with local communities. The drive from Paro to Haa means navigating the Chelela Pass, Bhutan's highest road that offers spectacular views of the mountains and valleys – an experience all of its own.

Seeing Sikkim

Sikkim is one of India’s most remote regions. In the far northeast of the country, tucked between Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan, it’s home to Khangchendzonga, India’s highest mountain. Lush green hills, misty valleys, stark snowy peaks, terraces of rice paddies and dense forests peppered with bright rhododendrons are the backdrop to adventures here.

There are clear similarities to neighbouring Bhutan (as well as Tibet and Nepal) in terms of spirituality and beliefs. The Hindu, Buddhist, Sikh, Islamic and Christian faiths are all followed in this part of India, along with mountain traditions and culture that are woven into everyday rural life here.

Shakti Himalaya owns a collection of traditional village homes across the Indian Himalayas and create bespoke, culturally focused walking adventures. They go well and truly off the beaten path in Sikkim, travelling through a rich diversity of landscapes, along with visits and guided tours to villages, markets and monasteries.

In the village of Hatti Dunga you’ll be invited to rise early and hike to Rinchenpong Monastery for early morning prayers, a privileged and peaceful experience. Then as the adventure unfolds you’ll find yourself browsing markets, visiting cardamom farms, joining families for steaming bowls of soup and brimming cups of sweet tea and meeting with a retired school teacher for conversation in his home: the kinds of activities that become the meaningful highlights of travelling.

The villages of Ladakh

Opposite Sikkim, on the other side of the Indian Himalayas, is Ladakh, one of the most spectacularly beautiful places on the planet. Across the high plateaus miles of terracotta and orange tones undulate, blown smooth in the winds, appearing pristine and acting as a mirror to the sky above. The moving shadows of the clouds whip across the ground, sliced by flashes of gold as the sun beams down, illuminating the land. Completely enthralling and hypnotic.

Experiencing the path less trodden is not difficult to do in Ladakh, most travellers don’t venture this far. For a true immersion in the mountains and the way they impact those who live here, a tailor-made walking trip through villages and tiny communities is one of the best ways to explore the wonder of the region.

Ladakh’s dramatic heights are stunning, and so are the valleys beneath. Most village walks tend to begin in Nimoo where cascading rivers widen and swell on the valley floor, feeding irrigation systems to verdant orchards of walnuts, apricots and apples that contrast against the barren mountain scenery.

Rafting on the Zanskar river is the perfect way to slow down in this beautiful environment. A day out on the river will reveal the little town of Chilling where copper, bronze, tin and silver smithing traditions are strong and you’ll be invited to watch and learn about the heritage of this trade.

Visiting monasteries in Ladakh and understanding their intricacies and differences is a fascinating way to learn about the people and communities nearby. Ladakh is often referred to as ‘little Tibet’ as the two share a border, Buddhist beliefs and geographical features, including high-altitude plateaus that are dotted with monasteries and lined with prayer flags.

Although there are hundreds of Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in Ladakh, Lamayuru monastery is thought to have pre-existed as a Bon monastery, which is the indigenous Tibetan faith with many similarities to Buddhism. Built in the 10th century, Lamayuru is thought to be the oldest monastery in Ladakh and expertly-guided tours around the interior, prayer rooms and huge domed exterior Stupas will explain Bon traditions and detail an incredible stretch of complex and absorbing history and culture of the Himalayas.

Between valleys and the sky

Across Bhutan and the Indian Himalayan region there are a handful of truly incredible places to stay. Here’s our pick of places that seek to have a positive impact on the environment and a nurturing and respectful relationship with those who live there.

Gangtey Lodge

Perched up high in the Phobjikha valley, Gangtey Lodge offers a blend of luxury and adventure. Woodburning stoves and underfloor heating feature in the luxurious suites, and communal areas with sweeping views and cosy corners are the place for gourmet dining and drinks. The lodge promises to show guests the essence of Bhutan through their celebration and safeguarding of ancient traditions, culture and the pristine environment.

Six Senses Paro

Six Senses Paro features fortressinspired design with locally cut stone, an enormous outdoor terrace and sixteen exquisite suites and villas, all with incredible valley views. You’ll feel cosy here as you settle down for sublime evenings in front of the fire, surrounded by serene decor with the options to enjoy yoga, the sauna and an indoor pool.

Shakti Village Experience

Much more than just an accommodation choice, the Shakti experience will meticulously combine a bespoke hiking and culturally focused multi-day adventure. In each of their chosen locations, beautifully renovated village homes welcome travellers with high-altitude luxury, pretty gardens, delicious homecooked cuisine and a connection to tradition and community.