Desert Dimensions

Remote locations, interplanetary landscapes, ancient culture and fascinating desert-adapted wildlife make Namibia one of the greatest adventure travel destinations.

Words: EMILY OPIE

Wake up in the dark before sunrise and make the short journey into the Namib-Naukluft National Park, the largest national park in Africa. Stop at the base of a massive, red dune. Pristine ripples of sand stretch up into the inky sky. The landscape looks delicate and soft. You start to climb, feet sinking into sand. You climb higher, your legs begin to ache, you're out of breath, the red sand dune turns orange and the sun is rising, the sky glows pink. The adventure has begun.

These enormous orange sand dunes, some of which rise over 300 metres tall, can be found in the world's oldest desert, the Namib. This coastal desert stretches down from Angola, all the way along the coast of Namibia to the top of South Africa. The prevailing sea winds from the east, and shelter from the Great Escarpment in the west, create distinctive coastal desert features: massive, static sand dunes.

The Namib desert is one of four deserts in Namibia. The other desert ecosystems are the Kalahari, Succulent Karoo and Nama Karoo. Along with the Namib these deserts make up over 80% of Namibia’s landmass. The remaining 20% of the country may not be desert, but it is still characterised as arid – so it’s safe to firmly categorise Namibia as a desert country.

Much of this desert is difficult to access, there are few roads and huge swathes are uninhabited. The 2022 census recorded 2.567 million inhabitants of Namibia, and these figures, compared to its large area (twice the size of Germany or the state of Texas) makes it the second least populated country in the world, after Mongolia.

Intrepid journeys

Exploring Namibia’s vast wildernesses is one of the world's great adventures. Simply moving from one jaw-droppingly beautiful location to another feels exciting and intrepid. Each new destination is unmissable and astonishing, spurring you on and enticing you to the next stop. You will travel across the dunes and desolate deserts to discover salt pans, forests, a dramatic coastline, ancient history, flowing rivers, communities and magnificent wildlife.

Most journeys through Namibia begin in the capital city of Windhoek, which is geographically located in the centre of the country. Old fashioned red-roofed German architecture contrasts against the handful of shiny high-rise buildings and low-level housing. The city is surrounded on almost all sides by hilly outcrops and the Auas Mountains, creating beautiful sunset and sunrise vistas that give you a little taste of what’s to come.

After a night or so in Windhoek, enjoying some succulent bbq and taking a wander around the city, the wilderness calls and it’s time to say goodbye to urban life. Leaving Windhoek feels adventurous very quickly. The city seems to end without warning and within minutes you're swallowed up by a vast expanse of nothingness.

There’s no real order in which to visit Namibia’s different stand-out locations, light aircraft work a bit like buses (a convenient mode of transport when covering such big distances with so little infrastructure) and many camps and lodges have their own airstrips. The region of Sossusvlei, situated within the Namib Desert, can be either the first or last stop on your Namibia itinerary, either way, it’s unmissable.

Sossusvlei is probably the reason so many people describe Namibia as ‘otherworldly’ and ‘interplanetary’. Set deep in the desert, grey and pink limestone gives way to the enormous orange sand dunes, a Mars-like destination that is impossible to fully imagine until you’re there. This is the place to climb sand dunes at sunrise, wander the deadvlei’s ancient petrified forests and star gaze in a designated Dark Sky Reserve.

Peace and tranquillity prevail here in Sossusvlei, but there’s also space for adrenaline seekers to find their groove. Wilderness Little Kulala is a desert dwelling with a lot to offer, including a private plunge pool and star bed in every suite. There’s direct and exclusive access to the mighty sand dunes and exciting activities of low-impact e-bike and quad bike rides, as well as mind-blowing hot air balloon flights over the dunes.

After a spell of inland, arid desert life at Sossusvlei, your Namibian journey changes tack at the coastal town of Swakopmund. Here the great watery expanse of the South Atlantic ocean is the dominant landmark. The formidable Skeleton Coast stretches northwards, the choppy waters meeting the relenting dunes in a cloud of mist, spray and swirling sands.

Seal colonies, shipwrecks and the occasional small settlement are spread across the rugged beaches. Marine wildlife expeditions are the order of the day with boat rides, 4x4 jeeps and kayaking around Pelican Point promising sightings of Cape fur seals, jackals and if you’re lucky, dolphins, porpoises, sharks and whales.

Further north and inland, the region of Damaraland will transport you to yet more otherworldly landscapes. To get here, you’ll pass over giant granite peaks and see Namibia’s tallest mountain, the Brandberg. The craters, mountains and rubble will make you feel like you’re walking on the moon as you set out to discover ancient history and rare wildlife, in particular desert-adapted elephants and the agile Hartmann’s mountain zebra.

Continuing into the country’s interior it’s hard to believe that Namibia has more desert diversity and unexpected terrain to discover, but Etosha offers exactly that – and more. Etosha National Park is a silvery expanse of stark landscapes, along with specks of bushveld, watering holes and wildlife. Everything about Etosha is enormous, it’s the sixth largest national park in Africa. The area is dominated by an expansive salt pan, one of just a handful of gigantic salt pans on the planet that’s visible from space.

Etosha means ‘great white place’ in Oshindonga, a dialect of Namibia, and the park confidently lives up to its name. The white salt pan reflects the sun, creating a dazzling bright light that completely engulfs you. The only reprieve from the powerful shimmer is in the mopane forests on the outskirts of the park, where elephants, zebras, oryx and big cats – and there’s much more wildlife too – roam, hunt and rest from the sun's glare. When the rains come, usually from November to April, flocks of bright pink flamingos arrive, their brightly coloured feathers joyfully decorating the startling white.

There’s one particular place in Namibia that will demand you venture even further, challenging your ideas of solitude and isolation. The Kunene River region is one of Africa’s, if not the world’s, most remote places, reachable only by a series of flights on small aircraft. This striking land of contrasts features the stark martian landscapes of the Hartmann Valley, which are surprisingly interrupted by the lush greenery, flowing water and thriving ecosystems of the perennial Kunene River.

While parts of the Kunene River area are home to the semi-nomadic Himba, vast stretches remain untouched by human presence. This is the ultimate destination, complete disconnection and immersion in wild beauty. The profound silence becomes a companion you’ll deeply miss once you leave.

Delving deeper

Namibia will fill you with a sense of excitement and wonder. You’ll be amazed at all the incredible things you’ll see, from the unceasing Namib Desert to the minute details of ancient rock art, tiny lizards or little seal pups. As well as the thrill of travelling and observing, the experiences that you have in each place will be meaningful, the remote and adventurous nature of the country only fully understandable once you’re immersed within it.

Safari camps and desert lodges across the country offer a multitude of sustainable wildlife and cultural activities. Many of these camps partner with local communities, support conservation projects and protect wildlife. These camps make sure experiences are genuine, and that the original residents of each region are uplifted by your presence.

Across Namibia, there are opportunities to meet new people and listen to their stories. At night you can be enveloped by the darkness as you learn about millions of mesmerising stars above. At dawn you’ll lace up your hiking boots to follow your guide on a fascinating walking safari or wait with binoculars to spot rare wildlife, a Damara hornbill or kudu perhaps.

The safari experiences here are extraordinary. Guided game drives in Etosha reveal staggering wildlife densities around the limited water sources, where it’s common to spot big cats, zebras, giraffes, buffalos, oryx and more, standing together at a watering hole. Their reflections in the water and the backdrop of the silver shimmering salt pan is one of Namibia’s most emblematic sights.

It’s also possible to experience Etosha from the exclusive private Ongava Reserve, which borders the national park. The luxurious Ongava lodge sits on an elevated rocky outcrop with staggering views and front-row seats to an active watering hole, often frequented by rhinos and elephants. Along with big game, the reserve is home to astounding diversity with 300 species of mammal, over 340 bird species and an abundance of amphibians, reptiles and insect life.

The Damarland region has the highest density of desert-adapted elephants in the country and Wilderness Damaraland Camp is one of the best places to find them. This camp perfects luxurious remote lodgings, while doing what’s right for the surrounding communities, natural habitats and wildlife. Between game drives and activities you’ll have the chance to meet with farmers from the Torra community to hear about their turbulent past as displaced people, and how they have learned to farm within a positive human-wildlife framework, with guidance from the camp.

Game drives to discover Namibia’s desert adapted elephants are an unforgettable experience, one that’s enriched by incredible guides who not only explain about the elephants, but also highlight what the future holds for these magnificent creatures. The explanations bring a greater understanding of the elephants and those who live alongside them.

The Palmwag Concession, also in Namibia's Damaraland region, has been diligently carrying out vital wildlife conservation work for over 20 years. They strive to protect some of the world’s most rare and endangered animal species, the magnificent black rhino. Wilderness Desert Rhino Camp, along with the concession and a thriving community partnership, have risen to every challenge in order to protect the magnificent species.

The rhinos’ guardians are a group of highly trained and passionate individuals who track and monitor their movements, and invite the guests of Wilderness Desert Rhino camp to join them. By spending a day with the rhinos guardians you will find yourself walking in the footsteps of these fragile giants for a wildlife experience that will leave your heart thumping with adrenaline and bursting with gratitude and affection.

History and cultural experiences should not be overlooked in Namibia. Archaeological evidence shows that humans inhabited Namibia at least 25,000 years ago and across the country ancient rock art can still remarkably be found on rock faces and within caves. In the Kunene Region at Wilderness Serra Cafema camp you can meet with a group whose way of life has existed for over 6000 years, the Himba.

Wilderness Serra Cafema describes itself as merely a guest here in Kunene, while the Himba are the true custodians of the land. This outlook allows the Himba to share their space, wildlife and culture naturally, without constraints or pressure. Learning about the Himba’s semi-nomadic way of life is powerful and soul-stirring. Their skills, connection to the land, knowledge and customs have been passed down from generation to generation and are intrinsically tied to survival in this completely isolated environment.

Today, the Himba, with the help of Wilderness Serra Cafema, has access to educational programmes, a medical clinic and nutritional aid to allow them to adapt and thrive in a changing world. It's an enormous privilege to be in one of the most untouched places on earth, with those who have lived in harmony with it for thousands of years.