On the Tide

The waters surrounding Mexico’s Baja Peninsula ebb and flow, as tides, migrations, seasons and currents slowly mark the passing of time over thousands of years. Fragile ecosystems above and below the waves hang in a delicate balance.

Words: EMILY OPIE

Uninhabited craggy islands, covered by sparse vegetation and dusty hills, give way to soft-sand beaches that trace the shoreline, their ripples still visible beneath the crystal-clear water. Startling grey granite slabs burst through the foamy spray to form massive sheer cliffs, some carved into arches by powerful tides and crashing waves. Tiny rocky islets and massive boulders sit marooned at sea, birds circling above and crustaceans concealed within the crags below.

This is the Gulf of California, or Sea of Cortez as it’s known colloquially, which separates mainland Mexico from the Baja Peninsula, and to the peninsula's west, the North Pacific Ocean. Since its creation more than 4.5 million years ago, the Gulf of California’s perpetual movements of tides and currents, combined with the effects of geology and climate, have made these waters some of the most naturally abundant and diverse in the world.

Beneath the waves

The Gulf of California dazzles with its beauty – and it’s pretty impressive on paper too. It’s home to 39% of all the marine animals in the world. That’s around 900 species, a large proportion of which are endemic. Nearly 700 plant species are also found here, making this one of the most biologically rich bodies of water in the world.

The diversity of landscapes, from white-sand beaches to jagged rock pools, is echoed in the marine diversity. Massive lumbering whales glide like silk through the water next to the tiny vaquita, the world's smallest porpoise. You’ll also find sea turtles, whale sharks, sea lions, dolphins, manta rays and hundreds of different fish species.

The gulf is notably frequented by the largest and most varied population of whales in the world, representing a crucial mating, feeding, calving and migrational resting place. Eastern Pacific grey whales give birth and nurse in only three locations in the world, all of which can be found on the Baja Peninsula: San Ignacio Lagoon, Magdalena Bay and Laguna Ojo de Liebre. The whales migrate here during the cold northern Arctic winters to feast on the rich nutrients created by cool currents that rise to meet the warm Mexican sunshine.

And then there are the turtles. The waters off the Baja Peninsula are home to five of the world's seven sea turtle species. Green turtles can be found in Magdalena Bay, while at Cabo San Lucas, on the southernmost tip of the bay, you’ll spot enormous leatherbacks that can grow up to seven feet long. Across the country on the Yucatan Peninsula, a further two species cement Mexico’s reputation as ‘The Land of the Turtles’.

In Cabo Pulmo National Park, both an ancient 20,000 year old coral reef and the tiny endangered Olive Ridley Sea Turtles are protected. A plethora of marine life thrives amid these unbelievably intricate and delicate corals, with their purple, brown, orange and pink hues. Brightly coloured parrot fish, angel fish, red snapper, rainbow fish and many, many more dart beneath the waves, along with playful sea lions, bottlenose and spinner dolphins.

Complex relationships

Since the first humans were recorded in the region more than 9000 years ago, the relationship between nature and humankind has been at once harmonious, destructive, respectful and protective. Human actions have become inextricably tied to the behavioural patterns of ocean life off the Baja Peninsula.

Some changes, such as the disturbance of turtle nesting patterns by rising water levels driven by climate change, are global. Others, including the impact of commercial whaling, overfishing and unsustainable fishing practices, which drain the ocean of wildlife and nutrients, and damage corals, are more local.

Yet positive stories also shine through these troubled times. The fishermen of San Ignacio Lagoon live in harmony with nature like their ancestors before them, the indigenous Cochimi people. They have treated grey whales as part of their family for generations.

The fisherman fabled as the community’s first whale watcher is said to have initially been scared by the shadow of a whale in the water below his boat. The story goes that when the whale didn’t swim away, the man peered over the edge of his boat and saw a large eye looking up at him. He tentatively reached his hand out to the whale, who responded to this touch. Thus a pledge was formed to care for the whales for eternity.

Today, the San Ignacio whale watchers collectively rally against commercial fishing methods. They support only small-scale, sustainable techniques in their lagoon, which is part of the massive El Vizcaino Biosphere, a vital area for hundreds of marine species.

They are not alone in their respect for the natural world. Countless people who have visited the peninsula are stunned by its beauty. In the 1940s, ocean explorer Jaques Cousteau nicknamed the Gulf of California the ‘aquarium of the World’. Since 2005, twelve different areas of natural importance across the gulf have been protected by unesco , affording a level of research and recognition that’s highlighted the oceans’ plight to the world.

In 2023, unesco released a report calling attention to the continued problem of illegal fishing and the fear of imminent extinction of the endemic vaquita porpoise. Yet while the waters are being watched more than ever, there are significant challenges to combatting these ongoing threats, in part due to the huge areas of land and sea in need of protection and the limited resources available.

A sustainable vision for tourism

The difficulty that Mexican authorities face in protecting the Gulf of California’s fragile ecosystems cannot be ignored. Some damage is unfortunately irreversible, bringing with it important lessons for the wider global community.

Scientists, private organisations and conservation projects may be monitoring, researching and ultimately working to protect these fragile ecosystems – but more work needs to be done to ensure future generations can also witness some of the most fascinating and phenomenal marine wildlife on the planet.

As the sixth most visited country in the world, Mexico's tourism industry can play a huge part in these solutions, and some initiatives are already demonstrating results.

Off the coast of La Paz, designated observation zones have been set up to allow visitors the opportunity to get close to whale sharks without overwhelming them. These zones are regulated with only fourteen boats allowed to visit at one time. Excursions are educational, focused on explaining the ecology of the region and conservation work.

Visitors can also join scientists to working on coral restoration, learning about projects spanning the entire Mexican Pacific and even cleaning racks used for growing colonies of corals that will be placed in restoration areas of La Paz Bay.

On land, guided nature hikes in the relatively less-visited Sierra de la Laguna Biosphere Reserve both relieve pressure on popular areas and offer the chance to visit a stunning, naturally beautiful area, rich in geological history, as well as a wide diversity of flora and fauna.

What’s sure is that regeneration and education go hand in hand. In Bahía Magdalena, the Grupo Tortuguero de las Californias help with turtle monitoring, releasing hundreds of turtles back to their natural habitat. Elsewhere in the bay, environmental education camps instil a profound sense of responsibility and stewardship of the natural world to the next generation.

The wild side

There are a number of places where you can responsibly observe marine wildlife around the globe.

In Costa Rica: stay at Lapa Rios or El Remanso and take a walk through the jungle to the beach. From the shoreline, you can watch migrating humpback whales breaching out of the water from July to October.

In the Galapagos: choose to travel on more sustainable ships, which minimise pollution through sophisticated water filtration systems, efficient engines and strict maintenance schedules. We recommend the Endemic or Elite.

In South Africa: stay at Cape Town’s More Quarter Hotel, which supports social initiatives through their More Community Foundation, adding on coastal excursions to spot penguins, migrating whales, dolphins and sharks.