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Beat of Tradition

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On the Tide

On the Tide

Step into a firelit circle and discover the powerful, rhythmic singing and dancing of Kenya's Maasai warriors. The traditional jumping dance has been keeping time for centuries and heralds a coming of age for young men.

Words: TERRI DUNBAR-CURRAN

A time-honoured tradition

While no one is really certain of how the dance originated, it is believed that it may have begun as a way for Maasai warriors to train for battle, showcasing their strength, stamina and agility at the same time.

Adumu sees the community's morani, young warriors between the ages of 14 and 30, form a circle. Taking turns, either alone or as part of a pair, the young warriors enter the ring and begin to jump, posture controlled and heels never touching the ground. Their athleticism and motivation to impress leads to magnificent heights being attained, as the morani surrounding them match their feats by raising the pitch of their voices.

In addition to the movements and singing, clothing and jewellery also play an important role. The dancers’ colourful shukas (traditional garments) are wrapped in a specific way and are often adorned with intricate beadwork. Bracelets, necklaces and earrings, mostly made of beads and shells, symbolise some of the most notable parts of Maasai culture, like identity, social standing and wealth. Spears and shields are also carried by the men as symbols of the bravery of their ancestors as well as a celebration of warrior tradition. A link between the past and present – every aspect of the dance, from clothing and weapons to movements and gestures, reinforces their cultural identity.

The sonic pulse of Maasai culture

Besides the incredibly high jumping, it’s the rhythmic throat-singing that adds to adumu’s significance. One of the world’s oldest forms of music, throat-singing gives the impression of more than one note or pitch being produced at the same time. In adumu, not only do the warriors sing, but you’ll often find their mothers joining in the harmony, praising their sons for their courage, and young single women encouraging their favourite participants. In fact, it’s only after the ceremony is completed, that these young men will be eligible to marry.

The adamu begins with the olaranyani (lead singer) singing the first line or title (namba) of a song, with the rest of the group responding in unison. The olaranyani then continues with the verse over the group’s throat-singing. The songs, which follow themes, each have their own namba structure with a call-andresponse pattern that varies between songs. The distinctive neck movements are largely a result of the style of singing. On an outbreath the singer’s head leans forward, and then tilts back for an inward breath. Careful movements of the lips, tongue, larynx and jaw all combine to create the beautiful sound that accompanies adumu.

One of the characteristics of the Maasai’s singing is that it uses drone polyphony, where one note is held continuously through the song, something that other African tribes don’t usually do. Together, the throat-singing and dancing combine to create an arresting rhythmic display, which has made this aspect of Maasai life recognisable around the world.

Preserving tradition in a modern world

A semi-nomadic and pastoral people, the Maasai live by herding cattle and goats. So it is unsurprising that one of the biggest challenges they’ve faced is the diminishing size of the land they live on, first as the Europeans arrived in Africa, and then as cities grew and surrounding societies modernised. Despite this, the Maasai have maintained their traditions, determined to preserve their culture and way of life for future generations.

One of the knock-on effects of less land is that their cattle are more prone to attack by predators like lions. This often leads to the community responding by hunting lions in order to save their livestock, further thinning the already rapidly dwindling numbers of lions in the region. Initiatives like the Maasai Wilderness Conservation Trust are working to restore the balance that once existed between humans and wildlife. One of the ways the trust is doing this is by reimbursing the communities for livestock that is killed by lions, as well as employing warriors as lion scouts, demonstrating the economic value of the presence of such animals on their land.

There are also camps and lodges playing their part. Angama Amboseli, for instance, is an small lodge in the heart of Kimana Sanctuary, Kenya’s first community-owned conservancy. It is owned by 844 Maasai family members, and the majority of the team at Angama come from the local communities, including the guides, naturalists and chefs.

Experiencing the Maasai rhythm

After a day of exploring, find a comfortable spot in the boma at Angama Amboseli and enjoy the sounds and sights of a Maasai warrior performance. Over in the Mara Conservancies, guests celebrating a special milestone can experience a meaningful, sunset Maasai blessing at certain camps. Or allow yourself to be enveloped in a vibrant cultural celebration in the Maasai Mara as you learn more about your welcoming hosts.

Angama Mara Craft Studio in Mara Conservancies also offers a fantastic opportunity to learn more about their traditions. Here Maasai women showcase their beading techniques and even let you try your hand at this delicate artform.

Taking the time to appreciate and experience the deep cultural roots of the Maasai people, through their stories, art, singing and dancing can result in a truly life-changing visit to Africa. And sharing the significance of such cultural traditions can ultimately help to protect and preserve them.

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