4 minute read
Reborn in Colour
Colombia. A photogenic gem full of incredible culture, delectable cuisine, unmatched biodiversity and charming architecture. But not so long ago, this country was making international headlines for very different reasons. Following decades of conflict and violence, a new era of peace has created the chance for a fresh start – and they’re certainly taking it. Colombia has been reborn.
Words: Beverley Lennon
For many in Colombia and around the world, Medellín used to be synonymous with danger. In fact, Time magazine granted it the dubious honour of being named ‘the world’s most dangerous city’ in 1988. More recently, Medellín has captured the international imagination through dramatisations of the life of Pablo Escobar, whose infamous cartel was once based in this city.
But visit Medellín today and you’ll find a very different story. Now commonly referred to as ‘the Silicon Valley of South America’, Medellín has a booming economy and is well on its way to becoming one of the world’s most innovative cities, with plans to cut its carbon emissions by 20%, expand its bike lanes by 50% and make all public transport electric by 2030.
This reinvention did not happen overnight. It required bold efforts from the Colombian government and, crucially, the determination and passion of local communities. Together they moved mountains to change people’s perceptions and shed the city’s former image.
One part of Medellín that’s seen especially drastic changes is Comuna 13. In the world’s most dangerous city, this area was known as the most dangerous barrio of all. But over the past few decades, Comuna 13 has experienced a cultural revolution. Local artists have turned the neighbourhood into a vibrant place, filled with street art depicting scenes of peace and positive change.
This barrio is now one of Medellín’s most famous attractions, with proud locals leading walking tours of the transformed streets. Strolling through the brightly coloured alleys, the guides share stories of Medellín past and present, often passing live street art performances or even running into the local artists who are behind the surrounding masterpieces.
In August, Medellín’s streets are further transformed for the Feria de Las Flores, a week-long extravaganza featuring festive flower parades set to the sounds of Colombian music.
Colourful Cartagena
Colombia is now known globally for its innovative restaurants, luxury accomodation and world-leading ecotourism attractions. But arguably the most important novelty is the fact that its streets are now safe to wander.
In the Old Town of Cartagena, those streets are some of the most spectacular in the world. This unesco World Heritage Site is known for its colourful façades and beautifully preserved colonial architecture. Flower-laden balconies overhang atmospheric cobbled alleys, brimming with locals and visitors alike. The Old Town is also home to one of Anthony Bourdain’s favourite local spots: La Cevicheria, a laid-back eatery known for its fresh seafood.
Cartagena is located in northern Colombia, an area that has seen its share of strife. For decades, travel between regions was limited. One unexpectedly positive result of these restrictions was that many local traditions managed to survive, untouched by outside influences.
The diversity of these local customs and cuisines is the driving force behind Cartagena’s Celele, which has been named one of Latin America's 50 Best Restaurants. Stepping over the threshold here feels like being welcomed into someone’s home.
In the kitchen, Jaime Rodríguez and Sebastián Pinzón give local cuisine a unique makeover. They combine popular dishes, indigenous cooking techniques and little-known local ingredients in a creative take on all things Colombian and Caribbean. Each course is accompanied by music from the same place as the dish being served, and the menu is complemented by an impressive wine list.
The way forward
Colombia has immense potential when it comes to sustainable tourism. It’s home to more bird species than any other country on earth, many of which inhabit the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. At one point in time, drug traffickers, paramilitaries and guerrillas made it impossible for outsiders to explore this area, but it’s now accessible to intrepid travellers.
This megadiverse country also features expansive areas of protected lands and oceans, making it a hotspot for biodiversity. Fortunately, many city officials recognise the importance of eco-friendly practices and support them accordingly.
