Gishwati, Rising

Two decades ago, Gishwati Forest was on the brink of total destruction. But today it’s poised for a comeback, thanks to a collective effort to restore its forests and protect its native wildlife.

Words: Melissa Haun

Images: Wilderness Safaris

When most people think of Rwanda, Gishwati Forest may not be the first thing that comes to mind. But although it’s lesser known than some of the country’s other attractions, this vibrant region certainly has a story to tell.

Until very recently, that story was one of hardship. For the first part of the 20th century, Gishwati Forest covered several thousand hectares of land on the Congo-Nile Divide along the Albertine Rift. But from the 1950s onward, its area steadily – and at times sharply – decreased, due to various kinds of human activity.

This destruction threatened the rainforest ecosystem and the species that call it home, gravely endangering local populations of chimpanzees, monkeys and many other animals and plants. In the last several years, however, people have started taking action to stop it.

Today, organisations like Wilderness Safaris, in conjunction with the Forest of Hope Association and the Rwanda Development Board, are working to restore Gishwati Forest. Their goal is to protect its incredible biodiversity, transforming it into an example of what can happen when we stand up in defence of natural resources.

If all goes to plan, Gishwati will soon join the ranks of other Rwandan success stories – such as Bisate Lodge in Volcanoes National Park – which have managed to use sustainable tourism and community engagement to help rebuild habitats and protect endangered species.

In just a few short years, this breathtaking landscape of lush hills and valleys will be not only a haven for wildlife, but an inspiring symbol of hope in the face of hardship.

A legacy of destruction

The modern history of Gishwati Forest began in 1930, when it was officially established as a natural reserve. During the first half of the 20th century, it comprised around 250,000 acres. But by 1960, it had already lost more than half of that land to deforestation. And in the 1980s, large swaths of the forest were cleared for cattle ranching, crops and logging.

Things got even worse in the 1990s, as civil strife in Rwanda caused hundreds of thousands of people to relocate to the region. Even more land was cleared for subsistence farming, settlement and mining, and by the early 2000s, Gishwati only had about 1,500 acres of native forest left.

All of this deforestation created a myriad of problems, from soil erosion and degradation to flooding and landslides – and it also had a devastating effect on biodiversity. Some local species were driven to the brink of extinction; in 2008, there were only 13 Eastern chimpanzees left in Gishwati. Other endangered species like the golden monkey, the blue monkey and many others were also threatened as their habitats were destroyed. With nearly everything that made this place special at risk, the situation seemed irreversible. But things were about to take a turn for the better.

Research and rebuilding

In the mid 2000s, a few organisations decided to take a stand to save Gishwati Forest. In 2007, the Gishwati Area Conservation Program was established. Five years later, the Forest of Hope Association (fha) took its place and over the past decade, conservationists and government officials have started working together to restore the majesty of Gishwati and protect it from further destruction.

In 2019, Gishwati Forest officially became part of Gishwati-Mukura National Park: the fourth national park established in Rwanda and a unesco biosphere reserve. That same year, Wilderness Safaris signed a 25-year concession agreement with the Rwanda Development Board. Together, they started developing an ambitious conservation and tourism management programme focused on chimpanzee monitoring, community engagement, education and reforestation.

Wilderness also partnered with the FHA to create an indigenous tree nursery, which has already greatly contributed to reforestation efforts.

With an eye towards the future, Wilderness Safaris is working on bringing sustainable tourism to Gishwati. They’re creating an exclusive chimpanzee and primate trekking experience that will allow visitors to see some of the forest’s most fascinating species up close, bringing people from across the globe to Gishwati to experience its stunning beauty firsthand.

One tree at a time

The support of local communities is vital to the success of any conservation project. Luckily for Gishwati, local residents have already demonstrated their commitment to rebuilding and protecting the one-of-a-kind environment where they live.

In November 2020, FHA helped to organise an umuganda: a monthly Rwandan tradition in which community members combine efforts to achieve a common goal. In this case, the objective was to plant tree saplings to help with the reforestation process. More than 80 local residents joined in, managing to plant 770 trees in just one day.

According to FHA coordinator Thierry Aimable Inzirayineza, the organisation’s strength is ‘the relationships that we have built with our local community partners over the years, and our collective mindset in the importance of the protection and conservation of Gishwati that will ultimately benefit the people too.’

Mr Inzirayineza makes a crucial point: in order for a long-term restoration project like this to work, it must take into account not only environmental issues, but also social and economic concerns. This kind of holistic approach aims to benefit local residents as well as the ecosystem itself – and this will be key to its ongoing success.

In the future, local community members will likely be joined by visitors from around the world, as Gishwati gains prominence as an ecotourism destination. These travellers will also need to be involved in the restoration process, whether by making responsible choices in general or even helping to plant trees. In fact, this is already possible in other parts of Rwanda, where similar conservation projects have reached later stages.

Following in Bisate’s footsteps

Less than 100 kilometres north of Gishwati Forest, there’s another inspiring story to be told. Bisate Lodge is perched on the edge of a crater beside Volcanoes National Park, one of Rwanda’s most famous attractions. Around five years ago, Wilderness Safaris started working with other organisations to restore this unique ecosystem, which was also at risk of destruction.

Today, they’re finally reaping the fruits of that labor. The team at Bisate Lodge – with the help of many guests and local community members – have planted more than 55,000 trees so far. These efforts have helped to reverse deforestation and rebuild the habitat of the endangered mountain gorillas that call the area home.

In June of this year, one of these stunning creatures was spotted on the Bisate property for the first time. This gorilla sighting is a testament to the success of ongoing efforts to protect the park, and a remarkable reward for all the hard work that’s been invested. Today there are around 1,000 mountain gorillas living in the wild. Although they’re still endangered, they’re the only species of great ape whose population is actually increasing – thanks in large part to projects like Bisate. This project has many parallels with the work going on at Gishwati. Both are grounded in local communities and aim to use sustainable tourism as a mechanism for positive change. The ecosystems and species at stake may be different, but the principles are the same. And the encouraging success at Bisate gives us a glimpse into what the future of Gishwati could look like.

A bright future

There’s no question that Gishwati Forest is on the path to renewal. In just a few short years, it may be possible to reverse the damage that’s been inflicted on this area for decades, and to breathe new life into an awe-inspiring ecosystem that was previously on the edge of collapse.

We have an extraordinary chance to ensure that the chimpanzees, monkeys, birds and other animals that live here have a secure habitat for years to come, helping these species to survive and thrive. The acres of land that were once blanketed in green foliage can return to their former glory, and with every tree planted, we get one step closer to that reality.

It’s important to note, however, that none of this is guaranteed. The success of Bisate Lodge, for example, did not come about on its own. It required years of dedication and commitment from community members, conservation experts and visitors. Many more years of hard work will be needed – but we’re certainly on the right track.

In Gishwati the restoration project is off to a promising start, and the organisations involved are ready to meet the challenge of maintaining and expanding these efforts as time goes by. Continuing to prioritise the environment and all of the diverse life it contains, while finding ways to simultaneously empower local communities is crucial – not only in Gishwati, but throughout all of Rwanda, Africa and the rest of the world.

Tourism can be a powerful tool to achieve this, as long as it’s ethical and sustainable. Wilderness Safaris is committed to promoting this type of travel, which benefits the environment, visitors and locals alike. As Rob Baas, Wilderness Safaris Rwanda MD, puts it, ‘There is now the possibility to use sensitive tourism to unlock the value of Gishwati Forest; to use revenue generated to enhance its protection and restoration, and to benefit the local rural people surrounding the forest. This is the first step towards a very bright future.’