ISLE OF GRAIN: TOPOGRAPHICAL, TEXTURES & LANDSCAPE SURVEY
JAC K BA R ON
Published in Great Britain in 2017 Š Copyright Jack Baron 2017 The right of Jack Baron to be identified as the author of this work. All photographs and graphics were taken or produced by Jack Baron (unless otherwise stated.) All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, transmitted or stored in a retrieval system, in any form or by any means, without permission in writing from the author.
ISLE OF GRAIN: To p o g r a p h i c a l , Te x t u re s & Landscape Survey
CONTEXTUAL ANALYSIS Re/Source Studio 22 LSBU MArch 2016/17
“The dark flat wilderness, intersected with dykes and mounds and gates, with scattered cattle feeding on it was the marshes; … the low leaden line beyond was the river; and … the distant savage lair from which the wind was rushing, was the sea.’ Great Expectations, Charles Dickens.
The landscape study considers the Isle of Grain and the surrounding context along the Thames Estuary in its present state, acknowledging its former maritime and industrial importance, whilst anticipating its future as a landscape subjected to the effects of global warming.
CONTENTS Chapters
Contents
1
Chapter 1: Topography & Geology
3
National
5
Thames Gateway
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Isle of Grain
15
Chapter 2: Textures & Landscape Survey
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Natural
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Farming
55
Artificial
75
Defences
99
Afterword
117
Bibliography
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1
Data Source: www.dimap.edina.ac.uk/roam/historic
CHAPTER ONE To p o g r a p h y & Geology The rivers eventually merged and moved southwards to their current position. Evidence of the changing routes of the Thames and Medway survives in the form of gravel deposits and can help us understand how the rivers shaped the peninsula. These early sediments also preserve plant and animal remains, which can tell us about the wider environment at the time they were deposited.
This first section of the study aims to focus on the topography of the Isle of Grain, with a overview of the geographic formations which has shaped it - including the River Thames. This desk-top approach consisted of the review of maps and drawings via historical archives. Local topography (or landforms), geology and soils have all contributed to the character of the Isle of Grain. They have influenced how different parts have been used over time, such as how people farmed, where people choose to live and where to establish industries.
Today, a ridge of predominantly London Clay forms the peninsula’s central spine of low hills, though Cretaceous chalk outcrops to the west. Clay also underlies the marshland river deposits and, as with the chalk, is overlain by patches of the sand and gravel deposited as the rivers changed their routes over hundreds of thousands of years.
The changing routes of the Thames and Medway rivers, as well as the effects of ice ages on land and sea levels, have been fundamental in shaping the topography of the area. The rivers appear to have followed completely separate courses until around half a million years ago, when glacial ice forced the Thames southwards to meet the Medway, which at that time flowed across the area of today’s Grain into Essex.
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N A T I O N A L To p o g r a p h y & Geology
TOPOGRAPHY National
Topography in the narrow sense involves the study and recording of the relief or terrain, the three-dimensional quality of the Earth’s surface, and the identification of specific shapes, features and landforms. Graphic representation of landforms is usually depicted on a map by a variety of techniques, including contour lines, psychometric tints and relief shading. Modern techniques also involve generation of elevation data in digital form (DEM). The study of topography also explores further then simply surface relief but also the exploration of natural and artificial features, and even local history and culture, which may have an direct impact on the landscape.
Data Source: www.floodmap.net 6
Key 1000 m 500 m 300 m 150 m 0-50 m
GEOLOGY National
The physical geography of the UK varies greatly. It includes the chalk cliffs of Kent and Dorset, the rolling hills and fields of southeast England, the granite cliffs of Cornwall, the mountains of Wales, the uplands of the Peak District and the Pennines, the lakes and mountains of Cumbria, the Scottish lowlands, highlands and islands, and the fields, lakes and mountains of Northern Ireland. The country can be roughly divided into highland and lowland along the Tees-Exe rivers line. The overall geomorphology of the UK was shaped by the combined forces of tectonics and climate change, in particular glaciation.
Data Source: www.withnature.co.uk 8
Key Chalk Coal Lower Ootite Sandstone Philcene Limestone Granite & Basalt
T H A M E S G A T E W AY To p o g r a p h y & Geology
TOPOGRAPHY Thames Estuary
Estuaries are among some of our most important coastal ecological features in the UK and rank along with tropical rainforests and coral reefs as the world’s most productive ecosystems. Estuaries are a transition zone where fish, birds and animals congregate to feed, find refuge, grow to adulthood, and stage migrations. They are unique places, strongly affected by tidal action, where land and river and sea merge into a dynamic natural complex.
Scale 1:200,000
0m
Data Source: www.dimap.edina.ac.uk 12
20km
40km
60km
120km
ISLE OF GRAIN To p o g r a p h y & Geology
TOPOGRAPHY Isle of Grain
Local topography (or landforms), geology and soils have contributed to the character of the Isle of Grain. They have influenced how different parts of it have been used over time, such as how people farmed, where they chose to live and where they established industries. These aspects of the landscape are not fixed but change at varying rates over time, through either natural processes or repeated alteration and adaptation by local inhabitants over many generations.
Scale 1:50,000
0m
5km
10km
15km
30km
Data Source: www.dimap.edina.ac.uk 16
Key 100 ft 75 ft 50 ft 25 ft 0 ft -5 ft
GEOLOGY Isle of Grain
The changing routes of the Thames and Medway rivers, as well as the effects of ice ages on land and sea levels, have been fundamental in shaping the topography of the area. The rivers appear to have followed completely separate courses until around half a million years ago, when glacial ice forced the Thames southwards to meet the Medway, which at that time flowed across the area of today’s Hoo Peninsula into Essex. The rivers eventually merged and moved southwards to their current position. Evidence of the changing routes of the Thames and Medway survives in the form of gravel deposits and can help us understand how the rivers shaped the peninsula. These early sediments also preserve plant and animal remains, which can tell us about the wider environment at the time they were deposited.
Scale 1:100,000
0m
10km
20km
30km
60km
Data Source: www.dimap.edina.ac.uk/roam/geology 18
Key Chalk Alluvium Lambeth Mud Flats London Clay Thanet
CHAPTER TWO Te x t u re s & Landscape Survey The second part of the study aims to identify the variety of unique landscapes within the
In order to fully assess the character of these landforms, following their mapping, this
Isle of Grain, and determine which have evolved following human influence (such as
study also aims to capture the textures and colours within these unique landscapes.
industry and housing) or by naturally occurring environmental fluctuations.
This could only be carried out via a walk-over study throughout the Isle of Grain, and photographing each character area.
Given the magnitude of the study area, the identification of these landforms and best method of capturing the patterns at this scale was only made possible using modern
Landscape character is formed by the things that make an area unique, created by a
satellite imagery, such as ‘Google Earth Pro.’
particular combination of components. This is not fixed bit is altered over time, by people, environmental fluctuations. It was therefore why I revisited the Isle of Grain on many
Individual landforms, such as ‘Grain Tower,’ were too small to capture via satellite
occasions, and at different time zones, in order to best capture the essence of this setting.
imagery. Instead, another method was required. Therefore a drone was purchased for this activity. These are another modern technological advancement which enables images and video footage to be captured from a range of 500m above ground level.
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N A T U R A L Landforms & Te x t u re s
S A LT
MARSH
Natural Landforms
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S A LT
MARSH
N a t u r a l Te x t u re s
Salt-marsh within predominantly rural context, subject to tidal influences. Characterised by typical pattern of creeks and channels. Typically extremely flat and open with expansive views of sea and sky. Remote and wild character accentuated by presence of marshland birds, exposure to the elements and smells of the sea.
“We have lost as much as 25% of our salt marshes, vital estuarine habitats, over the last 30 years.� www.climatelondon.org.uk 28
TIDAL
MARSH
Natural Landforms
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TIDAL
MARSH
N a t u r a l Te x t u re s
The Tidal marsh is completely natural landscape, subject to tidal influences. Characterised by low level mud islands. Views south over river and natural riverbanks beyond. Remote and peaceful environment.
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O P E N
S PAC E
Natural Landforms
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O P E N
S PAC E
N a t u r a l Te x t u re s
Large areas of open space, with high level grass and hedges, out of reach from tidal influences. Characterised by acres of grassland, and remains of structures built during the war. Typically various topography, with hills and valleys. Views directly east over the estuary and out to sea. Remote character with wild birds and animals.
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M U D
F L AT S
Natural Landforms
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M U D
F L AT S
N a t u r a l Te x t u re s
Mud flats are present with tide is out. Flat overall topography, but texture of mud creates small ‘islands’ of surface with shallow water between. Expansive views of sea and sky, with Grain Tower at what appears to be the centre. Rich smells of the sea.
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G R AV E L F L AT S Natural Landforms
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G R AV E L F L AT S N a t u r a l Te x t u re s
Gravel flats to the north of the island, subject to daily tidal influences. Complete flat surface full of sandy gravel and shingle. Views across to Canvey Island to Southend-OnSea. As if the bottom of the sea had been revealed.
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B E A C H E S Natural Landforms
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B E A C H E S N a t u r a l Te x t u re s
Gravel flats to the north of the island, subject to daily tidal influences. Complete flat surface full of sandy gravel and shingle. Views across to Canvey Island to Southend-OnSea. As if the bottom of the sea had been revealed. The Tide fluctuates twice a day, as illustrated below.
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F A R M I N G Landforms & Te x t u re s
ORCHARDS Farming Landforms
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O R C H A R DS F a r m i n g Te x t u re s
Landscape characterised by tall, 2m high wooden rods, aligned in rows through the landscape. In summer seasons I would imagine these would be fully covered in leafy vegetation. But in winter, the metal rods stand bold in the flat, soil landscape.
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H O R T I C U LT U R E Farming Landforms
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H O R T I C U LT U R E F a r m i n g Te x t u re s
In winter seasons, low-level vegetation beginning to grow. Topography slightly raised in relation to rest of the landscape, with expansive views across the terrain and beyond. Farming boundaries defined by high hedging and densely planted trees.
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SOLAR
FARM
Farming Landforms
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SOLAR
FARM
F a r m i n g Te x t u re s
Solar farm is filled with rows of photovoltaic solar panels, angled at approximately 20 degrees facing South. Distance strategically aligned to prevent overshadowing between panels. When viewed from a distance, the gentle sloping of the ground, creates a blanket of panels across the landscape. The rectangular shape, texture and pattern are all completely alien to the surrounding context.
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A R T I F I C I A L Landforms & Te x t u re s
INDUSTRY Artificial Landforms
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2 0 1 0
Data Source: ‘Google Earth.’ 80
1 9 9 0
Data Source: ‘Google Earth.’ 81
1 9 6 0
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1 9 4 0
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I N D U S T R Y A r t i f i c i a l Te x t u re s
Amongst the low-level topography, the large-scale industrial units and machinery are visible from far distances across the landscape. Simple colours of white and grey fade amongst the grey sky above. Circular and rectangular forms stand out within the seminatural environment. From above, expansive areas of concrete hard landscaping in rectangular shapes, appear as if like a circuit board from above.
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SHIPPING DOCK Artificial Landforms
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SHIPPING DOCK A r t i f i c i a l Te x t u re s
From above, the shipping dock has a unique appearance which is forever changing depending on the amount of shipping containers present. The rectangular blocks create a landscape in itself, completely alien within the natural context, but more similar to multistorey tower blocks found in a city centre. Bright colours of the shipping containers, such as reds, blues and yellows, further stand out from the neutral palette of the surrounding environment.
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H O U S I N G Artificial Landforms
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H O U S I N G A r t i f i c i a l Te x t u re s
Only using a small percentage of space in comparison to the other industrial uses, housing is set within a small cluster towards the north side of the Isle of Grain. Semidetached and terraced housing create rows of housing in a semi-rigid pattern. Most of the housing is cheap, with standard red brick and concrete roof tile finish - completely out of character for such a natural setting.
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D E F E N C E S Landforms & Te x t u re s
GRAIN TOWER WII Defences
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GRAIN TOWER WII Defences
Grain Tower, completed in the 1850s, was one of the last gun towers to be built in Britain. It was constructed in the mouth of the Medway to defend Chatham and Sheerness. Despite being considered too small and weak when finished, it was in service until 1910 and again during both World Wars. Later modifications include adjacent barrack accommodation. Part of the iron chain that formed the First World War boom defence across the Medway survives secured to the tower.
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C A L T R O P S WII Defences
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C A L T R O P S WII Defences
A large pile of anti-tank caltrops are located hard up against the sea wall. These blocks of concrete have four protruding arms, so that whichever way up they were placed, one arm always points upwards. Over the years the position of the caltrops have been disturbed by tidal action, however overall they still remain a strong defence, also helping prevent coastal erosion. The condition of the defended line is variable: there are two particularly good sections at either end of the line (at the north-western extremity running southeast for approximately 270m plus the return of anti-tank cubes; at the south-eastern end running north-west for approximately 60m including the caltrops), but the central section has been disturbed by tidal action and coastal erosion.
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DRAGON TEETH WII Defences
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DRAGON TEETH WII Defences
Concrete anti-tank obstacles forming a north-west to south-east line approximately 570m long on the foreshore to the north of Grain village. These anti-tank obstacles were erected circa 1940 as part of the anti-invasion defences for the Grain peninsula, Kent. The beach at Grain was perceived as a possible attractive landing place and the line was intended, in this eventuality, to prevent enemy armoured vehicles from heading in-land. The line consists of concrete asymmetric anti-tank pimples (truncated pyramids also colloquially known as Dragon’s Teeth) in offset rows approximately 1.2m apart. All are fixed to a continuous reinforced concrete grid of sleepers/groins. The pimples increase in height from the outer (seaward facing) examples to the inner (at circa 1.7m tall). Where the rows are complete, there are four pimples to each row but because of the off-set lay-out this creates a barrier eight deep. These anti-tank obstacles were erected circa 1940 as part of the anti-invasion defences for the Grain peninsula, Kent. This line fills a gap between the mostly northerly extent of the Grain village sea wall and the Grain and Lea marshes to the north-west. The beach at Grain was perceived as a possible attractive landing place and the line was intended, in this eventuality, to prevent enemy armoured vehicles from heading in-land. Tactically their purpose was to prevent enemy progress but in the event that an enemy vehicle did attempt to drive across an obstacle, its vulnerable underside would be exposed to defensive fire.
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SEA DEFENCES Flood + Erosion
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SEA DEFENCES Flood + Erosion
In 1953 there was a wide-scale flooding throughout the south-east of England and northern Europe which took many lives. Following this, the marsh and wet grasslands were drained and defences were built to safeguard the agriculture from future flooding and coastal erosion. The ground topography was raised around the perimeter and a 1m high reinforced concrete wall constructed, with either concrete paving or stone rubble bound together with tarmac.
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AFTERWORD Summary
This study observes the way specific English landscapes,the Isle of Grain in particular, evolve, shaped by industry, war, housing and for every changing environmental conditions. The landscape study aims to identify and describe the various natural and artificial landscapes within Isle of Grain and surrounding context along the Thames Estuary. Landscape is valued for lots of different reasons – not all related to traditional concepts of aesthetics and beauty. It can provide and contribute to: habitats for wildlife; a cultural record of how people have lived on the land and harnessed its resources; social and community value; a sense of identity, well being, enjoyment and inspiration; it has economic value – it forms the context for economic activity and can be a central factor in attracting business and tourism. The landscape study finds the hidden up-close textures and patterns from above, which are usually overlooked from passers by. This methodology provides a structured approach to understanding and identifying the true character of this truly unique environment. The effects of global warming will further shape the estuary’s topography, and one of the ambitions of this project has been to capture the true identity and character of this landscape before it swallowed by the ocean.
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BIBLIOGRAPHY Acknowledgements
Acknowledgements: ‘Soundings from the Estuary,’ Frank Watson, 2014. Hush House Publishers. ‘Medway LCA Main report’ March 2011. Medway Council ‘Circular Walks on the Hoo Peninsula’ 2008. Medway Council www.coastalwiki.org/futurecoast_project www.floodmap.net www.withnature.co.uk www.medway.gov.uk www.google.com/earth
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