THE ANDROGYNY ISSUE NO.325
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FATIMA RZAMAMMADLI PHOTOGRAPHED BY JACK COUSENS WINTER 2011
THE ANDROGYNY ISSUE NO. 325 he or she... editor in chief & creative director
advertising manager
jack cousens... sHE!
ryan green
jack cousens
rebecca morris
jack cousens
jack cousens
heather barras... he; I like to look at them!
josephine birkett
fashion director art director
fashion assistant beauty director
advertising director photgrapher
make up artist stylists
jack cousens josephine birkett...she; artem krasnikov more fun with make up. heather barras sinead freeman creative
contributors
dana ali...it beth champ... she... girls are the best sinead freeman... both! heather barras jes ding... she; girls just wanna have fun
online editor
sean baker... boys are my favourite
contributing fashion editors
judy blame marie chaix jane how... i should say she...but he cathy kasterine havana laffitte... love them both
photgrapher jack cousens
make up artist josephine birkett
stylists
jack cousens artem krasnikov heather barras sinead freeman
publisher terry jones
contributors
david armstrong, isabel asha penzilen, anette aural, fabien bart, orion best, gemma booth, richard burbridge, christopher smith, alan derrbridge, katie whitehall, jason gilgamesh, fatima hook, gerard stephenson, david whitby, nigel shafran, juergen lollen, bruce maurice, sharon sylvestor, osworld rock, gill sass, michael celine, emma summerton, hannah bide, jamie huckbody, ami sioux, jeremy scott, ellen von erberg, donald trinian.
Christopher Hodge
lets us know how it is. Chris is a fashion scholar at Northumbria University and specialises in androgyny and genfer identity. Having worked in several areas of fashion, Chris has observed all different walks of life and has a real vision of androgyny. In our feature article we talk to Chris about what he thinks androgyny really is and why it is here. uk.linkedin.com/ christopher-hodge
Andrej Pejic is the
face of androgyny. He has been catopoulted into the public eye through fashion campaigns and promotions because of his unusual aesthetic. i-D investgiates his fame and reviews the stardom of this androgynous rolemodel with the man himself. What does he think? chadwickmodels.com
Josephine Birkett
has worked on shoots all around the country. This make up artist and costume designer is sure to be a new name in fashion; experimenting with texture and colour, jo’s work is unique and dynamic. i-D Captures her signature make up style in our editorial shoot focusing on texture, tailoring and androgyny. All we can sayis expect to see her again. purestorm.com/ josephinebirkett
Fatima Rzamammadli may not stand out from a crowd on a high street in east london; her shyness and innocence could perhaps push her to the back of a crowd. Put her infront of a camera and a supermodel is born. The career of this 18 year old fashion student has only just begun but when you look at our Diamond Dogs feature, her shyness turns into stardom. fatima.rzamammadli. twitter.com
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INSi-DE THE ANDROGYNOUS sHE ISSUE: IF SHE CAN WEAR IT, WHY CAN’T HE? As it becomes widely covered in the media, Androgyny is being perceived more and more as a commercial form of cross-dressing. Admit it, you expect to see men in platform heels and skirts, and women in 3 piece suits with briefcases blaring out Dead or Alive tracks from the boot of a pink Cadillac! i-D has distinguished the difference with a third gender; commercially known as Androgyny. This third gender incorporates the traits of both male and female and inverts their characteristics to form a new super gender. In this issue we discuss the meaning of Androgyny and sHE and look into how it is formed, adapted and sustained. Models Fatima Rzamammadli and Artem Krasnikov are featured in styling based photo shoot, Diamond Dogs, where we experiment with sHE and solidify the true definition of what i-D believes is androgyny - and It’s definitely not cross-dressing! Catch up with i-Donline. com as we capture the behind the scenes of the shoot and question the models on what they think about the media frenzy behind it all. With more brands starting to interchange between traditional looks of masculinity and femininity, we discuss how and why the likes of Lea T and Andrej Pejic (the messiahs of androgyny) have been catapulted into supermodel stardom, when just a handful of seasons ago they would have been dropped from the media showcase of campaigns and shows. (Unless it was for JPG’s skirts for men) sHE is not a trend, it is culture, and it is here to stay. JACK COUSENS, EDITOR. 4 i-D THE ANDROGYNY ISSUE
CAMPAIGN
CAMPAIGN
IF SHE CAN WEAR IT, WHY CAN’T HE? Imagine a world where your identity could be whatever you wanted, irrespective of gender, sexuality and judgement. With many people having a seemingly warped idea of what androgyny really is, i-D asks what is androgyny and why is it here? Text Jack Cousens Photography Various
With Androgyny being a huge current fashion trend there is a noticeable rise of genderneutral supermodels. Normally the likes of Kate Moss, Claudia Schiffer and David Gandy would dominate the catwalk and the world of campaigns, but in the past couple of years there has been an explosion of new faces. These preceding supermodels are becoming an outdated idea of beauty and their images are being used less - replacing them are more unconventional models. Transgender model Lea T was brought to our attention with a Givenchy campaign where she stood alongside Malgosia Bela and Mariacarla Boscono. Since then, Lea T has been a public sensation. She has featured on The Oprah Winfrey Show as well as various other platforms, paving the way 8 i-D THE ANDROGYNY ISSUE
for androgyny as a culture. Another pioneer for androgyny is peer of Lea T, Andrej Pejic. Pejic appears in womenswear shows, presentations and campaigns, yet he also appears in similar menswear promotions. This is what sets him apart from Lea T; Pejic can change between both genders defining him more commercially as androgynous. Lea T represents the transgender community rather than solely the androgynous one. A frequent definition of androgyny is when a person has both masculine and feminine qualities which, let’s be honest, doesn’t really tell you much at all. Controversially many definitions say androgyny is a form of hermaphrodite. This leads you to believe that someone who possesses androgynous
characteristics is actually genetically bi-gender, reminiscent of Lea T. When you think of androgyny current perceptions evoke ideas of cross-dressing. This stereotype is hard to change because it is now associated with the word androgyny and there are not specific enough synonyms for the word. In some respects the whole androgynous culture needs to be rebranded before it can be truly embraced for what it signifies. Androgyny is less of a hazy blur of genders and more like a gender of it’s own. Bosnian born Andrej clarifies “The way I look, it’s a very personal thing…When I started experimenting, it was to make myself feel happy, to look in the mirror and be satisfied. I never did drag or anything like that. It was always that I wanted to be pretty, to look beautiful, as a girl would want to.” Surely this is what androgyny really is. He may be perceived as a cross dressing man in fashion promotions,
publicity. This is demonstrated by Jean Paul Gaultier’s skirts for men in the 80’s. The skirts may well have been a genuine trend that Mr JPG wanted to set; yet with the stereotype of androgyny, it acts as a device used to cause controversy around his collections. This would then create publicity around himself as a brand. Androgyny is no longer Donna Karan’s women in tailoring. Androgyny as a style has become an accepted way of experimenting with clothing and exploring people. Designers like Givenchy have taken this concept of exploring people and identity to the extreme by using transgender models like Lea T. She is experimental and so the brand becomes experimental too. Now androgyny is becoming accepted as an everyday way of dressing because of unique brands like Comme Des Garçons. Brands like this create collections that do not seem gender specific. Most of the clothes designed are inspired by tailoring and form rather than femininity and
but that is how he is dressed by others and presented to the world. Andrej himself is an androgynous person. He has never wanted to be female; he simply enjoys a characteristically feminine way of life. The androgynous supermodel also says “You know, I wouldn’t say that I’m really a sexual person...But I do appreciate love, and I would love to experience it someday.” Androgyny is not an overtly sexual in your face thing. The people that represent this trend and culture are personal, respectful and real; it’s not the drag act that it’s made out to be. Androgyny is not merely a visual thing. It’s clear that people can have personalities that can be androgynous. This including tastes, mannerisms and rituals of behaviour that are neither excessively masculine nor feminine. The true disposition and style of an androgynous personality should be put across in media. Attitudes towards fashion are evolving. At one time designers would have looked at androgyny as a way to shock and create
masculinity. The collection is still showcased as male or female because of social dictation. Androgyny will soon be depicted as more than a fashion trend, clothing will become genderless. An observation by fashion expert, Christopher Hodge, is that “People are less bothered about being pigeonholed to one gender or another. I think that over the years different people have been identified as exhibiting androgynous traits. Isabella Rossellini, Annie Lennox, Boy George, David Bowie and, of course, at the moment there are models like Lea T and Adrej Pejic. They all represent different parts of androgyny, whether it is music, fashion or film. They represent these elements differently; some are more obvious than others. But ultimately I don’t think that an individual can personify the entire culture.” Andrej and Lea are the most current personalities of this celebrity collective, but it is unfair that the development of the androgynous i-D THE ANDROGYNY ISSUE 9
evolution is presently down to them. As Christopher states, aspects of androgynous culture are currently represented by different people. The present visual representation may be with Lea T and Andrej Pejic, but this aesthetic presentation automatically passes judgement onto their lifestyle. Androgyny needs someone else to personify it just as boldly, but in a less optical way. It’s generally perceived that a woman dressing with masculine traits is androgynous. A man dressing with feminine traits is seen as effeminate and it’s seemingly more derogatory than androgynous. Why is that the case? Why is it perceived very differently from each gender perspective? A woman is not ‘butch’ for wearing a suit; she is androgynous. It’s the same if a woman had a short haircut or didn’t wear make-up. It’s a much more alienating perception of a man who dresses with feminine motifs. Lady Gaga’s recent stunt at the 2011 MTV video music Awards only confirms this. The superstar was dressed as male alter ego, Jo Calderone, and even though this shocked the press, it was accepted. Justin Bieber (who is on par regarding level of fame) would never incorporate a female alter ego into his performance or lifestyle as his fans and the press would reject it; is this because of his audience, or because of his gender? Androgyny is culture and expands far beyond the limit of clothes. A man will dress as stereotypically masculine as he likes but ultimately he could have typically feminine preferences in music, the fact that this is not obvious in public (like clothing style is) makes it acceptable. Similarly a woman could wear strikingly feminine clothes and still partake in stocks and finance; which are generally considered as masculine. So why is it still easier to accept women as masculine than vice versa? It is purely because it has been a part of mainstream culture for decades now? Looking back to when women first started wearing suits and going out to work, it was a scandal. If in future androgyny and the views on it continue to change in the same pattern that they have previously, it won’t be long before it is normal for men to dress as they wish with complete freedom - as women seem to now. Androgyny is much more sophisticated and complex than merely cross-dressing because of the multiple complex realms that lie within it. Androgyny is a third gender. 10 i-D THE ANDROGYNY ISSUE
The concept of a third gender is why the whole idea of androgyny needs to change. This issue of i-D encompasses the new label sHE. sHE represents a new era and dissociates the misguided stereotypes of androgyny. Because of the fluidity of sexuality and gender, it is harder than ever to define a character as male or female. The ability to include a third gender in culture and society disregards organs and anatomy from the disposition of a person. An individual could be born into a male body, but if there is the option of becoming sHE it means they can live how they want, whether it be masculine, feminine or both. At the moment society seems to dictate that if a man lives in a feminine way, he is either homosexual or transgender. Realistically a man can be heterosexual and still enjoy a stereotypically feminine way of life. Androgynous role models are in the public eye and therefore should represent the whole culture. However, these ‘androgynous’ people are not really being seen as the truly androgynous sHE; they are still visualised as male or female, rather than in a situation where gender has become totally irrelevant. Fashion is also still being portrayed within one gender or another despite the androgynous trend. For the idea of a third gender to truly exist, every way in which we live our lives would change. Fashion would no longer be for men and women; designers would comprise a collection for both and it would be promoted as sHE too.
If you’re interested in finding out more about androgyny and the topic of confusion within masculine and feminine aesthetic, then keep an eye out for an exhibition that will be based on the thesis. Get to Newcastle from the 2nd of February 2012 and find a whole host of creative platforms exhibiting androgynous ideas and concepts. The main event will be hosted and curated by Christopher Hodge who we spoke to about the sHE gender and it’s potential in modern society.
DIAMOND DOGS
Photography Jack Cousens Styling Jack Cousens
Photography assistance Heather Barras Styling assistance Sinead Freeman Make-up Josephine Birkett Hair Jack Cousens Producer Jack Cousens Models Artem Krasnikov and Fatima Razamammadli Artem wears coat Vintage, shirt Unconditional, trousers Comme des Garcons and Necklace modeel’s own.
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Shirt ASOS, necklace New Look, glasses CyberDog, trousers ASOS, shoes Creepers.
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Rollneck River Island, waistcoat River Island, belt Vivienne Westwood, trousers River Island.
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Jumper Topman, trousers Vivienne Westwood and boots Diesel.
Vest Uniqlo, top AllSaints, bag Yves Saint Laurent and trousers Unconditional.
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Fatima wears rollneck River Island, waistcoat River Island, belt Vivienne Westwood and rings Topshop. Artem wears long sleeved top Calvin Klein, jumper waistcoat Y-3. watch Michael Kors, brecelet New Look, ring Vivienne Westwood and necklace Model’s own.
Hooded vest Guess, bodychain Topman, trousers Zara and shoes Adidas.
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Shirt ASOS, necklace New Look, glasses CyberDog, trousers ASOS and shoes Creepers.
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Jumper ASOS Black, gold ring Topshop, diamond ring, black ring and bracelet New Look and necklace New Look.
Jumper Topman, Trousers Vivienne Westwood and necklace New Look.
Long sleeved top Calvin Klein, hooded jumper Y-3, trousers Vivienne Westwood, watch Michael Kors, brecelet New Look, ring Vivienne Westwood and necklace Model’s own.
Shirt ASOS, trousers River Island, boots Urban Outfitters and fur scarf River Island
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