Forks on the Road

Downtown Jacksonville’s riverfront remains a work in progress as a must-visit destination for locals and visitors alike. The Jax Landing’s time had come and gone and something else was needed to breathe new life into the property. Sadly, nothing of consequence has yet to replace it. Perhaps what the site, or somewhere close by, needs is a place like U•le•le (1810 N. Highland Ave., 813-999-4952, serving lunch and dinner daily), a visually striking restaurant and bar that hugs the bank of the Hillsborough River in downtown Tampa.

Pronounced “you-lay-lee,” the restaurant draws inspiration for its name and menu from Florida’s original inhabitants, one of whom is said to have been a Native American princess named Ulele. Hand-cut, unbreaded okra “fries,” blackened shrimp and alligator hush puppies with gator tail, ham, bacon, corn and onion ($10), with honey datil and horseradish aioli highlight the list of unusual starters. The house chili ($8) is a hearty stew of gator, wild boar, venison, duck, ground chuck, cranberry beans and spices. More traditional menu options such as burgers, grilled chicken and fried grouper sandwiches ($13-$23) are offered, but the entire setting encourages one to explore and try new things.

A cavernous main dining room features original sculptures and fine art on the walls, and the space spills out onto a broad lawn that brushes up against the river. The exterior red bricks, huge windows, pops of stainless steel and industrial lighting fixtures provide a contemporary vibe. Upstairs is a long patio with high-top tables and comfy lounge seating.

Plate presentations are as stylish as the in- terior setting. The blackened redfish ($32) is bathed in a whole-grain mustard beurre blanc, with wild rice and seasonal veggies. The 14-oz. tomahawk pork chop is finished with a guava demi-glace and roasted garlic ($36). Standout sides include crispy fried carrot ribbons and fire-roasted corn on the cob.

U• le•le also features an in-house craft brewery pouring a collection of lagers and pale ales, as well as seasonal specialt y beers. Open since August 2014, and part of the Columbia Restaurant Group, the establishment is next to a natural spring and Water Works Park, a true family friendly spot with a playground, dog park, boat dock and water taxi stop. The Jax skyline stacks up well against Downtown Tampa’s, but we come up short when comparing accessibility, amenities, and outstanding dining options like U•le•le. u