TREKKING IN TRANSYLVANIA
“Nothing ventured, nothing gained.� However banal this Romanian proverb sounds – in the end there really is no better reason for getting out and enjoying the outdoors. A short trekking tour in the Carpathian Mountains was planned from the end of February to the beginning of March 2010.
Transylvania
Fag
Legend: Ungarn Marmarosch Bukowina Rum채nien
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Hungary Marmarosh Bukovina Romania
Piatra Craiulu
garas Mounta
ia h t a p r a C h t u So ns Map: DietG, Wikimedia Commons, licensed under CreativeCommons license Attribution 3.0 Unported, URL: http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/deed.de
ins i
About
27%
of Romania is forested
We ran into an old friend, Christoph Promberger, who is a wildlife biologist. We get a bird’s eye view from the helicopter of the state of the countryside. The forest is actually not so contiguous as first impressions led us to believe. Unfortunately, the money to be earned from illegal lumbering is too good for people to bother about nature conservation. Trees are being chopped down even in the national park.
Travelling through Transylvania or The Seven Castles, as the region is also called.
Photo: © Corel
Transylvania – it’s like a film set and the director has just called , “And action!“: snow-covered forests and mountain ridges, icy winds, horse-drawn carts and the dark, tragic figure of Count Dracula. All this we can vouch for except for the vampire, not even a close-up. Instead, we get wolves!
Transylvania – it’s like a film set and the director has just called
>>And action!<<
Photo: Š Corel
The image transformation of the wolf is in no small measure due to Christoph, who accompanied us part of the way on our trek. He knows the region like the back of his hand: after the Soviet era, this wildlife biologist managed one of the first nature conservation projects, the CLCP (Carpathian Large Carnivore Project) from 1993-2003. The result: the Carpathians are now home to the highest concentration of carnivores living wild in Europe.
Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re on our first trek which is really just a warm-up. We never lose sight of Piatra Craiului. This mountain ridge, whose name means the Rock of the King, is about 25 km long and runs at right angles to the main ridge of the Southern Carpathians. This mountain range has been part of the Piatra Craiului National Park since 1990, protecting an area of 148 km2. About 170 km from Bucharest between the Piatra Craiului and the Fagaras Mountains, a huge nature conservation area is to be created to preserve biodiversity. Romaniaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s highest mountain, the Moldoveanu (2544 m), also lies in the Fagaras Mountains. Up till now, the area here has been relatively inaccessible thus allowing flora and fauna to develop undisturbed.
We drop in at the little farmhouse where we made friends with the owners on our last trip two years ago. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been a hard winter, George tells us, and heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s looking forward to the spring. After a pleasant chat, we set off on our way again with a gift of some of their apples to keep us going.
The next day we are battered by icy winds as we start the ascent â&#x20AC;&#x201C; again with a view of Piatra Craiului.
Testing the temperature with gloves off:
definitely
-20째C
It will be a short break: itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s too cold to stop long on the windy plateau.
Where should we make our camp, should we go for protection or a view? In the end we get both: the tent is in an exposed position with a great view of the ridge and we while away some time building a protective wall out of blocks of snow.
After a quick warm-up in the sleeping bag, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to cook our evening meal. We keep the pot-stirring down to the basic minimum while enjoying a view of the winter sun bravely peeping through the scudding clouds.
Next morning...
Snow galore for our early morning cuppa:
5
huge handfuls
After breakfast we pack up. The snow wall is still there. With a marvellous view of the Piatra Craiului we continue on our way.
Jackets and equipment fit for the Carpathian Mountains
KATMAI JACKET MEN: This has to be just about our warmest JACK WOLFSKIN fleece jacket! The main fabric is long 300 Highloft fleece. It has 3 pockets and a hood.
LATITUDE JACKET MEN: Super-soft yet robust where itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s needed: the all-weather shell has specially reinforced shoulders, the inner jacket is made of very warm Highloft fleece.
ROCK & ICE TEXAPORE: Warmly lined, waterproof trekking boots with higher than normal uppers and the tried and tested, stable VIBRAM MOUNTAIN TREK sole.
DENALI: Everything you need in a trekking rucksack: sensible sectioning for organised packing, raincover, hydration system compatibility, trekking pole lashing options and of course a carry system which transfers the weight to the hips.
CHILLOUT JACKET WOMEN: Windproof Highloft fleece â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this was absolutely perfect in the Carpathians. And the hood keeps your ears warm.
ARCTIC GATE WOMEN: Soft and warm to boot! All-weather shell and fleece inner jacket can either be combined or worn separately. Both are made of specially soft fabrics. Details: venting pit zips, 4 pockets, hood with stiffened peak.
Photos (unless stated otherwise): Gaudenz Danuser
Links:
www.clcp.ro (English website on the first wolf project by Christoph Promberger)
www.equus-silvania.com (German/English website on the ecologically-sustainable horse-riding facility and guesthouse of Christoph Promberger)
www.pcrai.ro (German/English/French website of the Piatra Craiului National Park)
www.eco-romania.ro (English website on eco-tourism in Romania)