BOLIVIA
Less altitude, more vegetation After spending 6 days at high altitudes up to 6000 m above sea level, the second part of our Bolivia trip takes us from La Paz (3200-4100 m) to the Bolivian lowlands: we fly to Rurrenabaque (205 m), exchanging blizzards in the Andes for the tropical plains.
OLIVIA
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MOUNTAINS
We step aboard a red and green, barge-style motor boat and head down the RĂo Beni towards the Madidi National Park. During the 3-hour boat journey we have time to review the first part of our trip in the Cordillera Real (which is the source of the RĂo Beni, by the way).
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river bank After the earthy colours of the Cordillera Real, here it’s “green as far as the eye can see”. The forest extends right to the exposed edge of the river bank and would probably continue into the river if it were possible.
A gaudy visitor We are woken by persistent squawking. We have breakfast in the main house with the tame parrot. It has a fondness for water melon.
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TREE HOUSE Back on land, we have about a 20-minute walk to our accommodation. The Serere Ecolodge is every child’s dream come true: the huts are dotted around the main house which is in the middle of the verdant rainforest. Instead of solid walls, these “tree houses” are fitted with mosquito nets which let all the scents and noises of the forest in.
W e l c o m e t o t h e JUNGLE
The Serere Nature Reserve is situated close to Madidi National Park. The forest is flooded by rivers and there are four lakes. The mix of landscapes in the park and surrounding area offers one of the most species-diverse regions of the world. Between the mountain ridges of the Andes and the lowlands of the Amazon a network of very different habitats have evolved.
Getting to know the locals Martina befriends a marimono during a rest on the river bank. The little spider monkey lives up to its name by clambering all over Martina until it finds a comfortable spot. Marimonos are hunted for their meat and are under threat. Serere offers them a safe haven.
When we want to move on, Martina’s success at distracting the monkey with bananas is short-lived. She is already seated in the dugout canoe when we hear a rustling above us in the foliage and the marimono makes a perfect landing onto her rucksack.
Ferns as tall as humans wave in the breeze, a thick leaf mould cushions our feet, while all around us the glistening vegetation grows. Our guide shows us various ceiba trees, which are typical here: full of awe, we touch the huge thorns on the trunk and branches. Soon we are able to recognise the giant kapok trees from afar by their typical buttress roots, which become more prominent the older the tree.
VITALITY
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FF THE BEATEN TRAC
We have half a day left to explore more of the Serere. The dappled sunshine gilds the brown leaf mould. We follow the boardwalk through the forest, duck under lianas and, on closer inspection, even discover old friends: a pineapple pushes up towards the light.
We take to the water Now our legs get a rest while we paddle. We moor by a sun-bleached tree trunk in the middle of the lake and fish with just a line. We all manage to catch something but release the fish quickly back into the water. So, when we light a fire on the shore, it’s not for cooking but for a bit of warmth and a chat round the campfire.
Fresh bananas and hammocks await us in the main house. Swaying gently in the hammocks, we have a great view of a lagoon where crocodiles are bobbing up and down just below the surface. We each chill out in our own way.
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farewell The verdant Serere accompanies us for a while as we chug downstream, giving us enough time to bid farewell. We feel the breeze from the river in our hair as the green and red boat cruises towards Rurrenabaque where the plane for La Paz is waiting.
EL DORADO LONGSLEEVE MEN Sometimes more protection is needed even when it’s hot: thanks to the Q.M.C. fibres, this shirt is extremely pleasant to wear even at high temperatures because perspiration is rapidly absorbed and evaporated.
WINNIPEG WOMEN Beautifully simple yet warm: the 200 grade fleece jacket provides comfortable insulation practically all year round. With its system zip it can be worn as an inner jacket with JACK WOLFSKIN weather protective jackets that also have this docking zip.
CANYON ZIP OFF PANTS
When long trousers are required for tramps through the undergrowth, these lightweight ones are just right. When it’s too hot, zip off the lower section and you’ve got a pair of shorts. The easy-care nylon fabric offers fantastic UV protection.
More than just clothing – p r o t e c t i o n i n t h e Tr o p i c s The trekking boot with extra stability. The uppers are practically all leather but even more importantly there is an extra stabilising element to give much-needed support to the ankle. In addition, the boot is waterproof yet extremely breathable.
AT M O S P H E R E PA C K This rucksack is a genuine lightweight yet still packs a punch! It is so well equipped that it can also be used for alpine day trips. The carry system keeps the rucksack close to the body (good for freedom of movement) while ensuring good ventilation. The rucksack comes in different volume sizes as well as a men’s and women’s version.
ESCALADE MID TEXAPORE
Accommodation and guide: www.ecobolivia.org
Best time to travel: April to November, average temperature approx. 25-32°C
Serere Nature Reserve: The 400-hectare forested area is owned by Madidi Travel. Under the motto “tourism for conservation”, the tour operator allows its visitors to experience the rainforest close up and invests the profits in conservation and in the local communities. Madidi Travel works closely with the Eco Bolivia Foundation and with other organisations that are engaged in habitat protection and justice in the region. The local population is also involved in this. Rosa María Ruiz is the head of Madidi Travel – she has been campaigning for years for the protection of the Bolivian environment and the rights of the indigenous population. Ruiz played a major role in establishing Madidi National Park.
Madidi National Park The national park (established in 1995) is one of the largest rainforest conservation areas in the world and extends from the 5000 m peaks of the Andes down to about 180 m above sea level. The habitats in the park represent this diversity.
Photos: Moritz Attenberger
If the adjacent conservation areas, which lie half in Bolivia and half in Peru, are included, the entire region has the potential to become one of the largest and most diverse conservation areas in the world. But there is still a long way to go.