Trend Prediction Package Spring/Summer 2018
Armatura Betray Concealment
ARMATURA
Introduction
Tones/Colours
Inspiration
Designer Influences
Key Trends
Contents
Details/Materials and components
Garments
Illustration
Introduction
Hidden but protected, armatura explores boudoir whilst bringing back to life historical armour. Minimal lingerie with the use of chain detailing, leather strapping and sensual silhouettes, offering the reversal of armour throughout erotic and revealing styles.
“Innocence is like polished armour; it adorns and defends� - Robert South
What is Armour?
Armour, anything that serves as protection, fully covered and reliable. Armatura takes the idea of armour and gives it a unique twist, making it revealing, contradicting the original purpose of armour.
Tones
Classic gunmetal and tinted shades of grey create a dark colour pallet. These muted colours portray the different shades of metal seen within armour and will compliment the highlight colours of metallic gold and copper to make embossing or embroidery stand out.
Colours
Metallics are at the heart of this colour pallet that range from cool and dark to bright gold and copper. Smaller hints of coffee bean and cappuccino brown lifts the cool metal, silvery tones and adds warmth to the colour pallet. The ground colour to this pallet is grey with hints of silver metallics to add shine to the lingerie giving it an armour finish.
Inspiration
Taking inspiration from the way armour is constructed though to the more simplistic shapes combined with immaculate detailing through cut outs and embossing.
Structure and symmetry is key to the trend, strong, sharp shapes cut the body providing a rigid boxy feel. Chain detailing provides the minimal cover contradicting the use of armour for protection due to lack of cover.
Gold emboss details stand out against the dusky metal.
Inspiration
Intricate embossing creates small detailing that draws attention to that area, masking the harsh brutality of why armour is worn.
Fannie Schiavoni
Design Influences
Incorporating metals and chains within fashion has allowed structure to be formed. Glimpses of light reflect from the metal rings Negative spaces produces a softer finish creating more movement within the garments.
Roberto Cavalli
Metallic copper and rustic brown cording twined into place recreating embossing details from armour chest plates transforming it into 3D form. Darker back colour allows the detailing to stand out reflecting from the light. Tight fitted shapes have been given movement through short gold tassels.
Design Infleunces
Key Shapes
Barely there, wired cup less bras used to emphasise the shape of the breast. Underlays and overlays can be used to create tonal or contrast colour combinations.
The removal of cups provide a provocative twist into these garments.
Key Shapes
Designs experiment with different textures, featuring metal work, mesh patterns providing a sense of structure.
Details Oversized metal rings, studs pierced into leather provides a metallic sheen into the garments. Metal studs enhance leather due to the contrasting of dark and light colours. Delicate metal chains, carefully placed, drape over the body to provides movement, juxtaposing the structured garments.
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Polished suede imitates the natural light that reflects of metal whilst providing a solid, rigid frame.
Materials and Components
Garments
Metal bodysuit with a deep V neck front with circlular cut outs. Fine chain detailing allows the body to be tied up. Embossing on the lower back, yet minimal detailing it makes it look aesthetically pleasing.
Metal bodysuit with cut out back. The split centre back allows it to easily be worn and laced up with chains to fit the body. Cut out circles for the breasts take this garment into the more provocative side due to be revealed and restricted at the same time. Delicate chains have been used to create shoulder detailing for the garment.
Garments
High neck chain detailing body in which the chains naturally fall from the neckline down to the waist. From the centre ring more chains drape over the legs. The knickers are a basic shape with elastic detaling on the back leaving the bottom revealed.
Caged in two piece, short sleeved cropped body that has cut outs over the breasts and within the knicker. Eyelets have been placed down the cut ous of the garments, joined together by metal rings to keep the parts together.
Grey mesh long sleeved dress with a chunky zip down the centre back. Leather straps have been created, cinching you in at the waist. The main detailing is the large buckles that allow you to take the garment on and off. The brown leather contrasts against the grey mesh making it stand out as they main piece.
Garments
Strips of leather create the shaping for bra, knicker and suspender belt. Metal rings and studs have been added for detail. Buckles have been added to allow access into the garment due to the rigid structure.
Garments
The knickers have been developed through the same idea as the bra by having the bare minimal there. The small triangle of fabric is joined to two metal rings. Chain detailing is joined from the rings round to another ring at the centre back. The back detailing of the knicker is all chains as this will sit nicely over the bottom due to the natural draping of the chains.
Garments
Cupless underwired bra with large metal ring on the centre front. Small, delicate chain detailing has been added from the centre front ring up to the strapping elastic, also chains have been added for aesthetical reasons draping from the centre.
High necked bra with light grey mesh providing a barely there look to the garment. A high centre front which is shaped by the wire allows it to sit nicely under the bust.
Garments
Chain detailing has been added from the centre front of the neckline draping over the shoulder and round onto the back. The knicker has a small triangle which is joined to two metal rings. Chain detailing has been added in rows of 3 to provide more thickness to the look. The chains drape down from the front rings and then flow nicely around the legs. The chain detailing also goes around the curve of the bottom to emphasise the shaping.
Illustrations
Illustrations
BETRAY CONCEALMENT
Introduction
Tones/Colours
Inspiration
Designer Influences
Artist Influences
Contents
Key Trends
Details/Materials and components
Garments
Illustration
Betray Concealment explores the idea of masquerade through being disguised and the concept of wearing a mask to hide your identity.
Introduction
The use of the mask allows you to be secluded and acts as a camouflages from the rest of the world.
Introduction
Tones
Deep mahogany reds through to delightful pinks compliment most skin tones, they provide a subtle look to elevate basics and luxury lace styles. These colours used with a hint of black creates a dark romantic mood.
Whites and pale nudes provide the grounding for deep reds, metallic blues to sit against.
Colours
Inspiration
Inspiration
Hiding behind a mask to conceal your identity is the main inspiration for this theme, with little hints from the ‘day of the dead’, venetian carnival and the uses of different masks throughout the years.
Lena Hoschek
Loose fitting, free moving clothes with a repeated print taking inspiration from the ‘day of the dead’. Bright colours against a muted background enables the colours to stand out.
Design Influences
Christian Lacroix
Dark red background against metallic gold stitch detailing producing a placement print. Beading embeds into the fabric creating a reflective sheen when it hits the light. Contrasting colours of red and pink fuse together and compliment each other.
Design Infleunces
Muted figure appears from a luminous background, representing the life after death. These images shows elegance and tranquillity within the female.
Sylvia Ji
Artist Influences
Artist Infleunces David Lozeau
Faded background with skeleton figures showing that there is still beauty beyond death. Betray concealment takes inspiration from the beauty within and converts this into delicate lingerie.
Key Shapes
High rise legs, peekaboo knickers and mesh inserts whilst experimenting with a range of womenswear can sit above or below the lingerie.
Long sleeved tops, dresses and bodies incorporate lace or mesh, providing lingerie pieces that are meant to be worn and seen, not concealed underneath clothing.
Key Shapes
Details
Minor details added to a simplistic collection, 3D lace embroidery incorporated into effortless pieces, adding a graceful element. Corset belts cinches in at the waist producing a hourglass silhouette, this statement piece is worn to be seen.
Materials and Components Small metallic zips, thick guipure lace mixed with sheer stretch mesh, this contrasts the narrowing of the stretch fabric against the structure of the rigid materials.
Toned down lace, nude mesh, provide the base colours and materials, layered with vibrant hues of pink and red to highlight the garment.
Garments
Baby blue laced boyshort paired with a lace top cup plunge bra. Nude mesh long sleeved top and mid length skirt sit ontop of the lingerie giving it a slight mask but still making it seen.
Garments
Simplistic black triangle lace bra and thong sit under a nude chiffon dress, flared sleeves and stand up collar exaggerates the neck and the arms. The dark pink corset cinches in the waist producing a ruffled look above and below where the corset lies from the dress.
Garments All in red, guipure lace provides a rigid structure to the garment. A mandarin collar with the back detailing of a metal zip complete the long sleeved top. Button up knickers with a ‘peekaboo’ lace cut out at the front.
Garments Stretch white mesh completes this two piece, that consists of a 3/4 sleeved top and high rise, high leg thong. The cupless bra is placed ontop of the garment to add detail, making this a statment piece to show.
Garments
Dainty little red set with white lace provides a unque twist on the simplistic lingerie. Basic shapes have been taken and developed to provide a more covered garment, this enables it to be worn and seen. Plunge bra with white lace sits over the shoulder and laces up at the back. A simple brief with white lace that starts from the front and carries round to the back. This is a flattering shape as the lace will sit on the bottom. Simple red centre with edge lace to create a shape that is similar to a corset, making it flatter any body shape.
Garments
Deep red set with black strapping and white lace detailing. The cup has been cut and is placed further within the cradle allowing for a higher centre front wire with a high apex, finished with double black strapping. The scallopped edge of the knicker suits the shape of the body by following the natural curves.
Illustrations
Illustrations
Bibliography Armatura • https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/131486/page/1 • http://www.denimjeansobserver.com/mag/2014/03/22/alice-auaa-yasutaka-funakoshi-20142015-fall-autumn-winter-womens-mercedes-benz-fashion-tokyo-sm-leather-studs-mask-zippersstraps-spikes-dress-ruffles/ • http://www.vogue.it/en/shows/show/fw-09-10-ready-to-wear/lie-sang-bong • http://www.fannieschiavoni.com • https://collections.royalarmouries.org/#/objects?search=leather+armour&sort=relevance • http://www.vogue.com/slideshow/858005/tory-burch-fall-2014-runway#12 • http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/autumn-winter-2011-ready-to-wear/roberto-cavalli/collection/ • https://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/67751/page/1 • https://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/131486/page/1 • https://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/57086/page/1 • https://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/69509/page/1 • https://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/58819/page/1 • https://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/63329/page/8 • https://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/67751/page/1
Bibliography Betray Concealment • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
http://flooks.net/jewellery/milan-fashion-week-bright-colors-for-2014-spring/ https://www.sylviaji.com/paintings-2012 https://www.davidlozeau.com/collections/day-of-the-dead http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2002-couture/christian-lacroix/slideshow/collection#5 http://www.mexicansugarskull.com/support/dodhistory.html http://lafashionjudge.com/runway-report-sue-wong-alchemy-ad-masquerade-springsummer-2016-collection-la-fashion-week-la-fashion-judge/ http://texsaverio.com/collection/?tag=therevelation http://jenajoycemua.blogspot.co.uk/2015/05/day-of-dead-fashion-influences.html https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Book_of_Life_(2014_film) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnival_of_Venice https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Masquerade_ball https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plague_doctor https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Day_of_the_Dead http://www.carnevale.venezia.it/en/ https://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/131334/page/1 https://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/54383/page/2 https://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/70025/page/1 https://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/69820/page/3 https://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/69820/page/6 https://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/69033/page/8 https://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/63336/page/1 https://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/63155/page/1