Imagine Equine - Winter Issue 2019

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You are here ... of course you can! As the Winter season arrives, we invite you to explore your creativity and set forth to inspire creativity in others as well! Afterall, it is the SEASON OF MAGIC, and there is no better time to embrace the magic of horses, art and how they inspire us all. Please enjoy our Winter Issue and included Holiday Gift Guide...as you soak in this season with your family, loved ones, and always-nickering friends. We wish you a Happy Holiday and a prosperous New Year ahead! Be kind. Be amazing. Be creative... this season and always.

Imagine Equine | Winter 1


On the Cover:

Cold Cast Bronze Holiday Ornament by Studio Thornrose

Imagine Equine | Winter 2

How Did You Do That? Big answers from Miniature Artist Terri Wright

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Tutorial: A Beginner’s Guide to Prepping and Priming Your Best Micro Minis by Kristen Taylor

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Dear Santa: Christmas Wishes from Social Media

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TRXC Region 10 Championship Show by Michele Katz Grieder

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“Tails” | Turning Hobby to Full-Time Artist: A journal entry from Kenzie Williamson

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Holiday Gift Guide

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Publishers Letter #Just4Fun Craft Corral Kids Bits

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Priam Costumes by Terri Wright @Priamcostumes

Ask any miniature artist and they might agree that this is the most commonly asked question they receive. It isn’t a problem; it is merely a difficult question to answer easily. Step by step tutorials, although useful, are not always available for every type of miniature build, and experience and patience plays a vital role in recreating items. It is those projects that require problem solving and creative thinking. Sometimes, you get lucky and find ready made items that are already mass produced in miniature, but often, custom recreation is the only option.

Right: 1:9 scale Chanfron made mid-2019 as part of a fantasy tack set.


Miniaturization of items requires a basic understanding of the assembly and use of the item you wish to reproduce. This explains why tack makers suggest handling full scale tack while replicating miniature in scale. The same principle applies to other miniature items. Using this knowledge, almost any item may be replicated using similar methods, with some modification. Miniature wicker items, for example, are made using the same methods as full-size items. Thinner wicker cord, or waxed cotton thread and small gauges of wire are substituted to replicate materials required for the frame and woven material. However, the smaller scale often requires sacrifices to reduce bulk and maintain realism.

Right: Dremel and raw unfinished wood wishbones

Left: Doll and miniatures. The custom Yvonne doll is shown with some antique brass miniatures I happened to find that were suitable for scenes.

Imagine Equine | Winter 4


In early 2017, I received a request to produce a 1:9 scale camel trapping used at tourist sites in Egypt. How to replicate such a unique item without any previously made patterns or guides? Tack starts at the foundation structure which shapes the entire piece. In order to understand how camel trappings are assembled, I began looking for full scale references, weavings, trees, historical photos and narratives of camel trappings in use across the world but focusing specifically on the region of origin requested. The most important part of the camel trapping is the structure: the wishbone frame saddle made from wood. After many months of research, the purchase of several books, and files of images, I had a generic idea of assembly, and began to sketch blueprints of my tree assembly including the use of paper cut outs for the pattern, altering where needed. I initially tried to replicate by laminating strips of craft basswood together, then heating and bending to shape. The idea was good, but was not an accurate or attractive result and was scrapped. I eventually resorted to cutting a wishbone design out of a solid piece of plywood and using a powered hand tool to “sculpt” into the shape I wanted according to my blueprints.

Right: Completed frame with 1:9 scale resin Camel for reference. (Camel “Vashti” sculpted by Canadian Artist Trisha Forsyth)

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Completed camel trapping as a close match to my reference photo. Shown on the Vashti camel resin. Hybrid arabian costume by Priam Costumes pictured on Design-A-Horse Peter Stone Arabian.

When I was happy that the frame matched the full size original, I moved onto the woven tapestries and coverings. Authentic tapestries are woven by hand with silk or wool, and I could have cross stitched something, but luck would have it and I stumbled across an almost identical fabric with a very close pattern to the reference costume on one of my trips to my local fabric store. I studied photos, figuring out all the straps and panel placements, experimenting with paper patterns, and sewing the rest of the pieces together. (Image 5: Sewing machine fabric) To replicate authenticity, I chose to hand knot and tie many of the ropes and straps, using trims and pom poms to match the original photo as close as possible. The dollhouse miniature hobby is often overlooked for ideas, but, has a wealth of knowledge, suppliers, and experienced artisans who have been creating art for years. There are multiple publications, hobby groups, meets and clubs that make finding information, even locally, very simple. The internet and access to online stores, tutorials and groups provide even more information.

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Scale is one of the most vital aspects of miniaturizing. At the basic level, with some simple mathematical calculations, a template can be re-scaled, and after minor sizing adjustments, can result in a functional pattern. (My favourite online scale calculator is here: http://www. scalemodelersworld.com/online-scale-converter-tool.html). Patterns can be scaled up or down using the scale model calculator and calculating the percentage change between two measurements. By using image editing software, you can enlarge or reduce images, with some adjustment. Doll clothes are usually one of the more requested items within 1:9 scale. Barbie patterns are easy to find, and a simple reduction to 66% of the original gives a good starting size for the 8” Yvonne/ Gracie doll. Recently, I came across blogs and social media groups that had detailed descriptions and free templates for 1:12 scale dollhouse furniture items. Growing up, I wanted to have the catalogue worthy miniatures I saw on display in fancy magazines, but could neither afford them, nor had the patience and skill to make them until recently. As above, a similar enlarging scaling calculation can be performed for dollhouse scaled items, most commonly scaled in 1:12, and can result in promising templates for 1:9 scaled breyer items.

Below: Yvonne doll shown on custom resin horse Sharif sculpted by Brigitte Eberl. The weapons pictured were created by 3d rendering design using the scale model calculator from full scale, 3d rendering software, and a professional printing service on an SLA Formlabs 3d printer. The cape was scaled down from a barbie 1:6 scale pattern, with some adjustments.

It isn’t exact, and some flexibility is required for adjustment based on the project, scale and item. Not every item will be possible to be rescaled: reducing has limitations, and at some scales, becomes difficult to replicate while not compromising on other aspects such as durability and realism. The same can be said for enlarging: digital patterns may be perceived as stretched or out of scale, even pixelated. Some hesitation, however, as “traditional” scaled 1:9 horses aren’t uniform in size, and may vary from 1:8 to 1:10 scale. Paper patterns help to reduce overhead costs to physically see the item prior to investing in the production. I suspect many others, like me, are only living out their childhood fantasies as an adult… and so, I will go back to playing, grinning like a fool while I do. Far right: 1:12 scale dollhouse wicker chair versus 1.9 scale wicker chair. I rescaled a 1:12 scale wicker pattern with some adjustment and wove an identical chair in the larger 1:9 scale. Right: Two upholstered chairs scaled up with adjustment from a 1:12 scale template into 1:9 scale.

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Imagine Equine LLC provides this publication as a benefit to members. Join the Imagine Equine Network at www.imagineequine.com. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without permission is prohibited. Articles or opinions published by Imagine Equine LLC are not necessarily the expressed view of Imagine Equine LLC. Imagine Equine LLC is not responsible for the accuracy of advertising content or images provided by advertisers and/or contributors. Advertisers, contributors and agents assume all liability for content provided.

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FAVORITE FOOD: Sushi FAVORITE DRINK: Coffee, Red Wine and Gin & Tonic VANILLA OR CHOCOLATE: Vanilla FAVORITE HOBBY: There aren’t alot of opportunities for “hobbies” in my life at the moment...But I do love to cook, and I try hard to, most days of the week. FAVORITE PART OF THE DAY: Putting the kids to bed - I love reading to them and the quiet time with them. FAVORITE TOOL OF THE TRADE: My Computer is a given...but probably my phone headset, so I can keep working while on the phone. WHAT A TYPICAL WEEKDAY LOOKS LIKE FOR ME: Early wake-up, get the kids off to school...Emails and catch up, list making, design/work all day, pick up the kids from school... Feed them, play-time, bedtime (for them), make dinner, relax, early bedtime. A TYPICAL WEEKEND? Family time...my husband and I try to spend time together and with the kdis enjoying the day. LAST MOVIE I SAW IN THE THEATER (Thumbs Up or Thumbs Down): Frozen 2 and I really enjoyed it. I NEVER LEAVE HOME WITHOUT: My phone FAVORITE HOLIDAY: Thanksgiving

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“Creating a moment in time ... a feeling ... a horse with a past, a purpose and an emotion.”

@STUDIOTHORNROSE WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/STUDIOTHORNROSE WWW.STUDIOTHORNROSE.COM | KYLEE@STUDIOTHORNROSE.COM

Jaime Johnson | Simi Valley, CA | 805.331.2404 | jaimejohnsondesigns@gmail.com | www.jaimejohnsondesigns.com

Imagine Equine | Winter 12


A BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO PREPPING AND PRIMING YOUR BEST MICRO MINIS By Kristen Taylor, Blue Mountain Stable

Imagine Equine | Winter 13


• Steel wool • Fine grit automotive sandpaper (1000-1500 is a good range) • Flexible sanding sticks in the finest grit possible • Needle files, seam scraper or mold line remover • Hobby cutting knife with #11 blades • Primer Top to bottom: Common tools for prepping micros are ultra-fine grit sandpaper (automotive is great), needle files and flexible sanding sticks.; Safety Gear: Repeat exposure to the particles, fillers, and primer is not good for your health in the long run, so always, always wear the proper gear like goggles and a mask with vapor filters. Work in a well-ventilated area too.

• Filler putty • Toothpicks • Gloves • Protective eyewear • Mask with particle filters (for prepping) and vapor filters (for priming)

Imagine Equine | Winter 14


Beginner’s Guide

TO PREPPING AND PRIMING YOUR BEST MICRO MINIS

from Kristen Taylor, Blue Mountain Stable

Micro minis are all the rage right now, and with a much lower average price, they are a great way for beginners to start collecting and painting artist resins. But a couple of the key techniques for a flawless paintjob on these tiny horses is perfect prepping and priming. With practice, this article will help you grow from a beginner to an expert prepper and primer. There are two common types of micros available today: resin and pewter. Each have unique prepping and priming considerations, and I cover the specifics of working with the pewter versions in the included video. The biggest difference with resin is it is more delicate, making it more prone to snapping, but also easier to prep. The pewter is a soft metal, so it is prone to bending, perhaps more so than snapping.

Prepping When we start painting our first ever model horses, some of us dive straight into applying paint onto a model. While it gets you started in painting, this method isn’t great because your paint needs a toothy surface to grip onto or it won’t last. It also doesn’t allow you to remove flaws from the molding process. And since micros aren’t particularly cheap like a Breyer Stablemate, let’s take the extra step to make them better and longer lasting by prepping and priming.

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A Beginner’s Guide to Prepping and Priming Your Best Micro Minis

STEP 1 So, what do we prep to make our best horses? Start with removing the seams and flashing (that extra resin or metal that sticks out from the ends of the seams on some horses). Sanding needles, hobby knives, flexible sanding sticks, seam removers, and sandpaper are all options (also covered in the video). If your micro is pewter, you’ll want to watch the part of the video that demonstrates smoothing out that porous body.

Top to bottom: Needle files are a great way to remove rough seams and flashing on both pewter and resin micro minis; Flexible sanding sticks in fine grit are an efficient way to smooth out what you removed with the needle files.

STEP 2 (if working with pewter) Another difference to remember is that the pewter micros need a special glue to firmly attach parts if your horse comes in multiple pieces (think of a micro that attaches to a stand, for example). Your common white glue won’t hold them; instead you’ll need a two-part epoxy glue or cyanoacrylate (such as Crazy Glue).

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STEP 3 There are some safety tips to keep in mind when prepping. This process often creates resin or metal dust that is dangerous for your lungs, especially over repeated use, so wear a particle mask and work in a well-ventilated area. And since you’re working with these tiny horses, you’ll want to consider their “safety” and be extra careful working around delicate areas like legs and ears. Work slowly and gently. After sanding, your model should shine. Make sure it is not super smooth, however, so that your primer has a toothy surface to grip. If it is not toothy, run over the model with slightly coarser sandpaper.

STEP 4 Once you are satisfied with your prepped micro, give it a good bath. This is so crucial for removing the release agent from the molding process, as well as the natural grease from your fingers. Both can cause issues with your primer and paint.

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STEP 5 Filling Imperfections

Despite all your sanding, often there are little airholes or crannies that are impossible to smooth. Instead, we fill them with a sandable putty. Two common brands used in the hobby are the automotive filler, Bondo, and the miniatures filler, Milliput. Both of these products can be toxic when not used properly (for example, they are

potential skin irritants) so use gloves and work in a well-ventilated area. Wear a particle filter over your face when sanding. Wearing goggles that seal along your face are a great idea to protect your eyes. Top to Bottom:Despite your best sanding attempts, there will be small areas like air-holes that need filling. Milliput, Bondo, or a sandable artist’s filling paste help fill these problem areas; Depending on your model, it may need a good bit of filling putty. Let it dry according to the instructions on your product, and then sand smooth.

STEP 6 | Priming

Like with customizing plastic Breyers, priming is the best way to give your paint layers tooth and help ensure they don’t crack or lift in the future. But unlike Breyers, micros need special consideration. These horses have tiny, immaculate details that are easily obliterated with too much primer. Applying as much primer as you would a larger model would fill these details. Instead, spray just enough to give your paint a toothy surface to grip. When purchasing your primer, look for a brand that is sandable and meant for fine detail. Automotive primers like Duplicolor are a good place to start and are often more affordable. You also have a selection of colors that work best with certain horse colors. These primer colors help enrich your paint base color, help make your paint layers look natural, and make it easier to apply color because you can use less. For example, pick a gray primer for black and grey horses, white for dilutes like palominos, and the rusty-colored red for chestnuts and bays. Primers that are meant to preserve fine details, like automotive primers, are best for micros. Primers like this Duplicolor Sandable Automotive Primer in red are great for both resin and pewter micro minis.


S tep 7

In a well-ventilated area, spray in long strokes just before your model and extend your stroke well past your model for an even coverage. Make sure you are spraying at the ideal distance as labeled on your can. It’s also good to read the directions for the ideal spray temperature and humidity levels and try your best to work in those ranges. Making a cheap spray booth from a cardboard box is a great way to block the wind, help keep particles off your model, and contain your primer spray. Make sure you are keeping safe. Primer is very damaging to your lungs if you are not wearing a mask, and make sure your mask filter is rated for vapor or paint spray (a particle mask won’t protect you). Wearing gloves is a great idea to protect the skin on your hands, as well as goggles for your eyes. Prime your model in very light coats so as not to fill in the tiny details.

A Beginner’s Guide to Prepping and Priming Your Best Micro Minis Imagine Equine | Winter 19


STEP 8 | Rinse & Repeat (Literally)

After filling the imperfections and priming, let the model cure and then lightly sand with very fine grit sandpaper. If you only need very light sanding, you can also “sand” them with water and baking soda, scrubbing lightly with a toothbrush. Wash your model to remove the finger grease and particles, then prime again in another light layer if needed. Stop when you have an even coat of primer and before you lose detail. Since you are not covering up the different colors or markings in the paintwork of an OF model horse, you don’t have to prime as much as you would an OF Breyer. You just need enough primer to give your paint a nice, consistent layer of “tooth” for it to stick to the metal or resin. And there you have it! The crucial steps, tools and best practices you need to know to start making great micro minis. Remember to stay safe and happy painting! If there are any further rough spots, lightly sand and prime again.

Imagine Equine | Winter 20


Troubleshooting COMMON PRIMING ISSUES from Kristen Taylor, Blue Mountain Stable

TOO THICK

If your primer is obliterating detail on your micro, it is likely because you are holding the primer can too close, spraying too long, or because your primer is not formulated for such small work. Strip the model, adjust your spray technique, or purchase a different primer.

ORANGE PEEL

Several things can cause orange peel, and some of them aren’t fixable if you are using a canned primer, such as air pressure too low, or a poor mixture. Some are fixable, such as spraying too closely in a dry environment, which creates a thick coat where the top of the coat dries first, before the rest of the primer can dry. The result is an effect like cracked mud. Spraying in thinner coats, with a humidifier running, will help.

SPRAYING BLOBS

Small blobs of primer are often a symptom of spraying in an environment that is too dry. To combat it, hold the primer closer to your model, so the primer has less time to form blobs as it flies through the air, or use a humidifier in your work area (this method is recommended for micros, as spraying closer does risk putting on a coat of primer that is too thick to preserve details).

TOO COARSE

Course primer could be a symptom of a dry environment as well, or it could be you’re using a primer that is not formulated for such small work. In either case, a light bit of sanding with 1500 grit automotive sandpaper, steel wool and/or scrubbing a wet model with baking soda will fix this issue. Be sure to work lightly, as it often doesn’t take much to remove the coarse texture. For more Tutorials, Tips & Tricks or to Shop at the online store, Visit Kristen Taylor’s website: www.bluemountainstable.com

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by MICHELE KATZ GRIEDER

Photo by Laura Bernardi

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Many of Region 10’s best came out to “strut their stuff ” on November 2nd and 3rd Photo by Laura Bernardi at The Region 10 Championship show (TRXC) held in the quiet little town of Schoharie, NY, outside of Albany. This marked the show’s return to New York State after having been held in Massachusetts the past few years. The centrally located hotel in Schoharie had been home to the previous champ show, Region 10 Regionals (RXR), for several years, and held a definite nostalgic feel for those who remembered way back when. The show was very well-attended with the entire region represented. Exhibitors enjoyed the waning fall foliage as they traveled from all over New England and New York State, including the northern most part of Maine, the southern reaches of Long Island, west nearing Buffalo, and everywhere in between. There were even a few brave folks who made the trip from outside the region, having qualified at previous shows throughout the year.

Photo by Beth Rappleyea

Photo by Laura Bernardi

Imagine Equine | Winter 28


The show consisted of two days of top-notch competition, with Original Finish Plastic, CM/AR Performance, and Novice divisions running on Saturday, and OF Performance, Artist Resin, Custom, and China divisions held on Sunday. There were two different types of classes, the majority being “Stakes” classes, restricted to models who had qualified at a previous show by receiving a card for 1st or 2nd Place, much like NAN. Then there were also a few “Maiden” classes that afforded new and previously not qualified models the opportunity to qualify on site and move on to the Stakes classes. The Champion and Reserve Champion winners of the Stakes classes were awarded cleverly colored rosettes that were Region 10 green in the middle with one streamer of blue or red indicating champ or reserve, and another streamer of pink, yellow, or light green indicating performance, collectability/workmanship, or breed. Additional top honors were awarded in the form of high quality 4-color cardstock certificates, depending on the number of models in the class. Every one of these awards was hard won, and the exhibitors were thrilled to receive them!

Photo by Laura Bernardi

Photo by Beth Rappleyea

Photo by Laura Bernardi

Photo by Laura Bernardi

Imagine Equine | Winter 29


In addition to the competition, time was well spent with friends from the far reaches of the region, reconnecting and reminiscing before the end of the show season and the craziness of the approaching holidays. Amenities included room sales in the evenings, and an assortment of items for sale at many of the exhibitors’ tables. Lunch on both days was a delicious catered buffet featuring chicken and pasta, and of course, there was the pizza party Saturday night, a Region 10 tradition that everyone always seems to enjoy. Many also enjoyed the additional treat of hot mulled cider! Finally, there was a great raffle of which the highlight was the Breyer Live Show Benefit Model. This show is a massive undertaking, and would not have been possible without the time, dedication, and huge effort of the show hostess, Karen Pajak, and her highly capable team of judges who volunteered their experience. With so much eye candy, rarity, and artistry on the tables, they had no easy task! All in all, it was a fun-filled weekend and a wonderful showcase of stunningly beautiful models.

Photos by Laura Bernardi

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Put your best foot forward and commemorate your lil’ ones with this keepsake perfect for a gift to a family member or yourself!

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Choose your background paper. Be it a solid color, textured paper or even a painted scene of your own imagined landscape, start your canvas with a color to contrast your pretty pasture.

Pick out your Pasture Pal. Using water soluble paint, pick out the color of your little pasture pal. Apply it to your child’s feet, and have them step on your background paper. Try not to move!

Grab your markers. Once your footsteps are dry, add ears, eyes, nostrils and some white face markings. Use some dark paint for a tail and forelock.

Frame it up! Whether you make your own frame or hit the store, try a rustic barn wood theme. Decorate it how you like.

Personalize! Try scraps of yarn or a tassel to make their tails or forelocks. Glue on some ribbons or bows! Add some flowers or a sun, clouds ... go crazy! Most importantly, don’t forget your little one’s name and date!

Imagine Equine | Winter 33




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Follow Kenzie’s journey at www.BridleTreeStudios.com

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Jaime Johnson

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COLD CAST NICKEL & BRONZE ARABIAN ORNAMENTS APPROX. 2.5 INCHES $45 EACH OR 3 FOR $120 PPD INT’L SHIPPING ADDITIONAL

EMAIL KYLEE@STUDIOTHORNROSE.COM FILLED IN THE ORDER RECEIVED

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$40 PPD 9 X 12 | HAND-SIGNED | 120 LB STOCK INT’L SHIPPING ADDITIONAL

ORDER ONLINE AT WWW.STUDIOTHORNROSE.COM/SHOP Imagine Equine | Winter 41


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“Grasshopper” | Traditional resin $365 PPD Domestic Limited Edition Painted pieces coming soon

“Sterling”

Limited painted pieces

Traditional in progress Available in 2020

offered through Facebook studio page examples of paintwork

EQUINE ART BY MINDY BERG Burlington, Vermont | mindy@sprucemtnstudio.com www.facebook.com/sprucemtnstudiollc | www.instagram.com/sprucemtnstudio Imagine Equine | Winter 44


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2 Bedroom Apartment | 1 Full Bathroom | Sleeps up to 5 guests Bring your horse...Horse Accommodations and Trailer Parking available on the property. Reservations Available beginning January 2020! Email WineCountryGetawaySY@gmail.com for available dates! Imagine Equine | Winter 49


QUILL, Glossy

A HERO’S WELCOME, Green

BANNER, Red

DIANA, Loose Mane

BUCKY

PEPPER, Chestnut

Email jaimejohnsondesigns@gmail.com with offers | Domestic shipping included!

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JM EQUINE ART • JESSICA MURRAY www.facebook.com/JMEquineArt Customizable Holiday Cards, Prints, Graphic Tees available! Message me today for more information and to order! Imagine Equine | Winter 51


Arabian Horse Times 47 AHT Boutique 45 Laura Bernardi Jaime Johnson Michele Katz Grieder Kylee Parks Beth Rappleyea Kristen Taylor Jenn Trickey Terri Wright Kenzie Williamson April Visel

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DeEtta Houts-Schey 48 Dynamic Frames 42-43 Jaime Johnson Designs 12 JM Equine Art 51 Minkiewicz Studios 9, 45 Seunta LLC IFC, 10, 38 Spruce Mountain Studio 44 Studio Thornrose 12, 40-41 Wine Country Getaway SY

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