Indonesia Expat 111 by Jakarta Expat

H! C UN A L RE

Formerly JAK ARTA EXPAT and BALI EXPAT

ISSUE NO. 111 | 12 – 25 FEBRUARY 2014

JAKARTA • JAVA • BALI • LOMBOK • KALIMANTAN • SUMATRA • SULAWESI • WEST PAPUA

MRT

THE FUTURE OF JAKARTA

THE CHILDREN OF BANTAR GEBANG CONFESSIONS OF AN IRANIAN ASYLUM SEEKER

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Rp. 25.000

2014

PROPERTY TRENDS

FLORES TRAVEL DIARIES

MARK BAKER THE NIGHTCLUB KINGPIN

issue 111 indonesia expat

indonesia expat issue 111

issue 111 indonesia expat

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Good Things Come to Those Who Wait

Indonesia's Largest Expatriate Readership

Editor in Chief Angela Richardson angela@indonesiaexpat.biz

thinner paper to allow for more pages for your reading pleasure.

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Management Edo Frese edo@indonesiaexpat.biz

Sales Dian Mardianingsih Betty De Haan ads@indonesiaexpat.biz

Graphics Frederick Ng fred@indonesiaexpat.biz Adietyo Randulas didiet@indonesiaexpat.biz

Finance & Admin Lini Verawaty Andre Fajar lini@indonesiaexpat.biz

WE HOPE THAT the wait was worth it as you hold the first issue of Indonesia Expat in your hands, formerly known as Jakarta Expat and Bali Expat. This is issue number 111, a lucky number in some cultures, carrying on from Jakarta Expat’s previous issue number 110, which we hope will reiterate the fact that this is not a new publication, but a relaunch and revamp of an existing one, with much more on offer. With the new title comes a new look and feel; a cleaner layout and slightly

Contributors Stephen Barber Bill Dalton Karen Davis Paul Enrich Martin Jenkins David Metcalf Hans Rooseboom Eamonn Sadler Grace Susetyo Donny Syofyan Kenneth Yeung

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So what else is new? We have more varied content for you to enjoy, with fixed sections too. What’s in store for you this issue? I’d like you to meet Mark Baker, nightclub kingpin of New York City, now a resident of Bali with his club called Townhouse, with plans to expand to Jakarta in the near future. Mark is one of the only people I know who’s been both shot and stabbed — read Meet the Bali Expat to find out about Mark’s very unusual life, from circus hand, to world ranking skateboarder, to renowned nightclub owner. We also have a gripping interview with an Iranian asylum seeker in Jakarta in our unusual Meet the Jakarta Expat by Kenneth Yeung. Don't miss this. If you live in Jakarta, you have no doubt experienced disruption due to the beginning of the MRT project, which many would agree is long overdue. Nevertheless, it’s better

late than never and for our Featured Article, Donny Syofyan discovers what the plans are for this project, including when the different lines plan to be completed and what is required from the public and those in office in order for successful implementation. Yes, government officials, we expect to be seeing you on public transportation, too; leading by example. We have some new sections in Indonesia Expat, including Business Profile, Property Watch and Sports/ Health. In this issue’s Business Profile, I met with Mario Gaw, the newly appointed General Manager of Rumah123.com, and learned about what it takes to wear his shoes. In Property Watch, Paul Enrich discusses whether or not he thinks the property bubble will burst this year — a question on many people’s minds — and in Sports we find out what’s been going on in the Indonesian Rugby scene; Indonesia had a win against United Arab Emirates and the girls refuse to be

left out of this contact sport. David Metcalf returns once more with Faces of Indonesia, where he meets a Dayak village chief in Kalimantan. You may know David for his photographs, but we’d like you to get to know him for his eloquent words as well. We also take you on a travel adventure to Flores in East Nusa Tenggara with Grace Susetyo’s travel diaries of this beautiful part of the world, from Komodo dragons to the tricolour lakes of Kelimutu. We’ve also got restaurant reviews in every issue, sports stories, culture pieces, charity and conservation updates, lifestyle reads, scams to watch out for, and more; making Indonesia Expat a one- size-fitsall publication which we hope has something for everyone. Enjoy! Angela Richardson Editor in Chief

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LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

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The Casablanca Flyover

Published by PT. Koleksi Klasik Indonesia Jl. Kemang Raya No. 29A Kemang, Jakarta,Indonesia Phone: 021 7179 4550 Fax: 021 7179 4546 Office hours: 09.00 – 17.00 Monday – Friday INDONESIA EXPAT IS PUBLISHED BI-WEEKLY BY PT. KOLEKSI KLASIK INDONESIA. OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN THIS PUBLICATION ARE THOSE OF THE WRITERS AND THE PUBLISHER DOES NOT ACCEPT ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY ERRORS, OMMISIONS, OR COMPLAINTS ARISING THERE FROM. NO PARTS OF THIS PUBLICATION CAN BE REPRODUCED IN WHOLE OR IN PART, IN PRINT OR ELECTRONICALLY WITHOUT PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHER. ALL TRADEMARKS, LOGOS, BRANDS AND DESIGNS ARE COPYRIGHT AND FULLY

AS MUCH AS I ADMIRE your sense of optimism, the particular reference that you make to the Casablanca Overpass as somehow a sense of hope of a better Jakarta, I suppose is indicative of the straws one has to cling to in the forlorn hope that the smallest indication of a well planned future for this city, is coming shortly. The flyover that you mentioned, which was originally planned to link Kampung Melayu and Tanah Abang, which had it been completed, would have undoubtedly reduced the traffic load in the Kuningan area. Instead, the city planners (pejorative term) have left an

appallingly constructed (potholes and badly fitting expansion joints), fairly useless stretch of road that can potentially cause traffic bottlenecks at both ends. I say potentially, because seemingly, most motorists are avoiding its use (with the exception of motorbikes of course, who are using it illegally) probably for these very reasons. I speak with knowledge, as my wife and I live in Puri Casablanca and we have to put up with the daily mind-numbing traffic, caused predominantly by next door’s “illegally” constructed mall and in part by the flyover.

Graham Howat Jakarta

RESERVED BY PT. KOLEKSI KLASIK INDONESIA.

Connect with Us The Cover Mark Baker pictured by David Axelrad

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Issue 111

Contents

Featured MRT: The Key to Reducing Jakarta's Chronic Congestion

Meet the Jakarta Expat Ashraf: The Asylum Seeker from Iran

Meet the Bali Expat Mark Baker: The 'Godfather' of NYC Nightlife

Travel A Travel Diary of Flores: Tales from an Enchanted Island

Faces of Indonesia Pak Anden: The Dayak Elder and Village Chief

Food and Drink Hard Rock Cafe Jakarta

Literature Balinese Literature: A Moveable Feast

Lifestyle Take a Seat with DUDUK

Business Profile Mario Gaw: General Manager of Rumah123.com

Property Watch Indonesian Property Trends 2014: Is This the Year the Bubble Bursts?

Sports Indonesian Rugby: Success Built on Hard Work

Scams in the Ctiy Big Phising in a Big Pond

Worthy Causes The School on a Landfill: Yayasan Dinamika Indonesia, Bantar Gebang

23 24 26 28

Light Entertainment Worse than Hanky Panky

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Announcements Events Classifieds and Directory

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issue 111 indonesia expat

FEATURED

image courtesy of jakarta.go.id

MRT

The Key to Reducing Jakarta's Chronic Congestion Starting October 10, 2013, the first phase of Mass Rapid Transit (MRT), a monorailbased transportation system, began works in Dukuh Atas, across Sudirman Station. Along Jalan MH Thamrin in Jakarta, people will find several banners showing Governor Jokowi’s apologies for any inconvenience caused by the project construction to road users. “After 24 years of dreaming about having an MRT, finally Jakarta residents’ dream will come true. In the name of God, the construction of the first MRT track has begun,” Jokowi said in the ceremony.

image courtesy of paradiseintheworld.com

According to PT Mass Rapid Transit Jakarta (PT MRT Jakarta), Stage I extends along approximately 15.2 miles from Bundaran HI (Hotel Indonesia traffic circle) to Lebak Bulus. There will be 13 stations in the North-South Corridor route of Stage I. Each station will be set apart by a few kilometres, ranging from 0.5 km to 2 km. The estimated travel time from one corridor to another is around 30 minutes. Corridor I will have seven elevated and six underground stations. The former involves Lebak Bulus, Fatmawati, Cipete Raya, Haji Nawi, Blok A, Blok M, and Sisingamangaraja, while the latter includes Bundaran HI, Dukuh Atas, Setiabudi, Bendungan Hilir, Istora, and Senayan. Corridor I is expected to begin operating in 2018. Stage II, which involves the South-North Corridor, will connect Bundaran HI to Kampung Bandan over an 8.1 km railway. The estimated travel time along the corridor would be 23 minutes, with the distance of each station ranging approximately from 0.8 km to 2.4 km. The South-North Corridor, which is targeted to start operating in 2018, is expected to serve 629,900 passengers by 2037.

image courtesy of wikipedia

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In 2020 - four years of post-operational North-South Corridor Phase I - 412,700 passengers are expected to be served by this mass transportation. The passengers will enjoy an average distance between intermodal stations of five minutes at the

maximum. After the North-South Corridor construction is completed, the East-West Corridor will be built, which is currently still at the pre-feasibility study phase. It is targeted to be in operation between 2024–2027. Since the time of previous governor Fauzi Bowo, the MRT has been just a dream the people of Jakarta have had for equalizing with the advanced transportation systems present in foreign developed countries. Neighbouring countries such as Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand and the Philippines have long since developed MRT systems to cope with traffic congestion in their respective capital cities. Despite having smaller populations than Jakarta, Singapore and Kuala Lumpur have more extensive city rail networks. Singapore has 129.7 kilometres of MRT and 28.8 kilometres of feeder LRT (Light Rail Transit). Kuala Lumpur has 175 kilometres of city commuter trains, 56 kilometres of MRT, 57 kilometres of high-speed rail (ERL) and 8.6 kilometres of monorails and plans on building an additional 150 kilometres of MRT by 2016. All in all, the benefits of MRT will be fruitless if the city does not draw up supporting policies. One of the best ways of mainstreaming this MRT is to grow public interest by involving the following measures. First, successful implementation of the MRT as a cultural movement calls for strong leadership. It is not necessarily interpreted as an authoritarian leader. A leader is required to be a good role model for society. Government officials, for example, might set this movement in motion by taking public transportation. They should set an example by staying at residential areas easily accessed by public transport. Creative breakthroughs indirectly supporting the development of MRT need to be made on a regular basis. Car free day initiatives on certain roads should not only

be viewed as a populist program or solving the bottleneck node problems, and the problems of traffic congestion for a while. Instead, it must be bolstered gradually since this program is instrumental in raising public awareness and needs of efficient, healthy and environmentallyfriendly lifestyles. Second, the implementation of sustainable MRT entails coordination among different sectors and levels of government. An increase in public transport would be more realistic if accompanied by disincentive mechanisms for users of private vehicles on the one side and incentives for public transport users on the other. Like it or not, the city’s next job is to change people’s behaviours through both educative and repressive measures. Governments need to consistently manage the impact of the automobile industry on people through high taxations and selective fuel subsidies. As compensation, the government can divert existing funds for the development of mass infrastructure. Rather than relying on toll roads, for example, massive railroads construction should be a priority. Third, it is often that major stumbling block is not bound to the MRT service quality but to its supporting facilities. Therefore, within the framework of an integrated MRT development, the government should start thinking about reliable feeders connecting MRT routes to settlement centres. In addition, pedestrian paths linking shelters to central business districts and offices need also be improved. In the long term, the growth of settlements and new activity centres in the city’s master plan needs to be integrated into the MRT. Building affordable apartments downtown to shorten residents’ commuting journeys is unavoidable. In a big city, 80 percent of the residents should live in vertical housing downtown. As a means of urban-scale transport, the MRT ought to be in unison with

Donny Syofyan is a lecturer at the Faculty of Cultural Sciences at Andalas University. Despite majoring in English literature, his interests are wide and varied. He is a regular writer for The Jakarta Post and Republika. Feel free to contact him at donny.syofyan@gmail.com

Fourth, MRT development should begin with a simple thing like the improvement of the Busway. Along with the complex transportation system in the capital, the next program certainly involves more complex modes such as monorail, tram and subway. In addition, it is undeniable that the development of MRT will lead to job losses since the city's transportation sector is more capital-intensive by nature. Thus the government needs to explore every avenue dealing with the process of adaptation and the transfer of transportation sector employers in stages through capacity building, capital assistance and provision of new jobs.

regional and national-scale transportation systems. This can be done by developing intermodal nodes such as MRT stations being combined with the expansion of bus terminals, train stations, airports and ports. For the sake of convenience, the payment system should use automated technologies, like prepaid cards or chips, which are adapted to other public transportation.

The busway in the capital, called TransJakarta, remains relevant. To keep TransJakarta central to the lives of Jakartans, people have to be aware of their responsibilities when using the buses. There are still many people who do not know the rules of getting on and off the buses and many prefer their own cars to taking the bus. While TransJakarta has no more than 5,000 buses to cater for 350,000 people per day, private cars cater for one to three people at a time. The problem of TransJakarta buses being unable to pass through their lanes due to many cars using these lanes is now being addressed by policing and heavy on-the-spot fines for law breakers.

MRT Jakarta Future Network

image courtesy of latitudes.nu

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MEET THE JAKARTA EXPAT

Kenneth Yeung is a Jakarta-based editor

meet

ASHRAF

The asylum seeker from Iran

Meet Ashraf. That’s not his real name. And he’s not your typical expat, being an Iranian asylum seeker who calls Jakarta home while hoping to be granted refugee status elsewhere.

How did you arrive in Indonesia? I flew from Iran via another country, travelling on a fake passport. I had just turned 35. Why did you leave Iran? I was a professional earning a good salary. I spoke about a crime I had witnessed. I was told I would be jailed. I had already seen people killed for not supporting the mullahs. The mullahs are the Shia clerics who rule the country. Iran is supposed to be an oil-rich country, but infrastructure and the economy are bad. The environment is being destroyed and there’s a lot waste and corruption. You can be jailed or executed if you promote political change. Isn’t Iran’s new president a moderate? There have been about 500 executions since Hassan Rouhani became president last August. Many of those executed are activists. The newspapers will say they were drug addicts or ordinary criminals. People take their children to watch public executions. Police rob people in the streets. Progressive teachers have been removed from schools and universities for questioning the mullahs. One university lecturer used to demand sex from his female students to pass them. After he was caught in the act, he received a promotion. This is the Iranian government. Youth suicide is high. Even the president’s son committed suicide. Drug use and HIV are increasing. Many local women are turning to prostitution – something you never saw 15 years ago. Often it’s a husband prostituting his wife to make money. Where would you like to live? Canada or New Zealand. Or anywhere safer than Iran. What about Australia? Australia now has a bad reputation as a racist country, which no longer accepts valid refugees, so I don’t want to go there. We hear a lot of stories recently about Australia mistreating asylum seekers. There have been some asylum seekers whose claims were not valid or they misbehaved, so Australia is now tough on everyone. Talk us through the process of seeking refugee status. You arrive in Jakarta and register with the United Nations refugee agency, the UNHCR. You get a permit to stay in Indonesia for three or four months. When that expires, you extend it. All of this time, you are waiting for an interview with the UNHCR to present your case for asylum. Eventually, you will be interviewed. Then you may have to wait many more months before they tell you the result. 8

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It can take two years of waiting. Every month you’re spending about $400 on rent and food — or double that if you have a wife and children. In two years you could spend $15,000 here, only to be told that your application has been denied. If you are accepted, resettlement can still take many years. So if you have no income and limited savings, of course you will sooner pay $3,000 to a people smuggler to get a boat going to Christmas Island or Darwin. Even if you then have to spend a couple of years in a detention centre, you’ve got food and accommodation, and you can learn English. Two years in an Australian detention centre is better than two years of uncertainty in Indonesia. How do you get asylum? You must prove it is unsafe for you to go home. You cannot just say: “My parents were killed.” They will say: “That was your parents’ problem; you have no problem, so go back.” Some people lie about their sexuality to get accepted. They say they are gay or lesbian, so they fear being beaten or jailed. That works. And you can say you have converted from Islam to Christianity. That works too. But be careful if you say you are an atheist! Don’t insult the Prophet. The Indonesian UNHCR officers don’t like that, even though they should be neutral. You’re not interviewed by Westerners? Previously there were some Westerners. Now the interviewers are Indonesians, using Afghanis as interpreters. The Indonesian UNHCR officers don’t have enough information about Iranian politics and security. There’s a lot of discrimination against Iranians. The UNHCR officers favour Afghanis. Even if an Afghani grew up in Iran, he just has to say “the Taliban took my land and threatened to kill me,” and he gets his approval. The UNHCR officers say Iran is a safe country. Well if it’s safe, then why not send some Afghanis there? Iran has a UNHCR office. Of course it’s not safe. Iranian police beat up Afghanis without provocation.

Can you work in Indonesia? Not legally. Some Iranians living around Bogor have started small businesses in their houses, making bread and cheese to sell to other asylum seekers. They’re not making much money. Many asylum seekers get desperate. They get on these unsafe boats and drown. We all know the police are cooperating with people smugglers. Maybe this is why things take so long.

Do you like Indonesia? Yes, you have freedom in Indonesia. Ladies do not have to cover up in public. Police here are not as bad as Iranian police. In Bogor, police can ask to see your ID and then threaten to take you to jail unless you pay them about Rp.300,000. So I don’t go out much. I know one Iranian family living in Bogor; their house was robbed one day. When they reported the robbery to police, they

If you want to stop people smuggling, then make the process faster. Tell applicants yes or no within a few months; don’t leave them waiting for over a year. If you want to stop people smuggling, then make the process faster. Tell applicants yes or no within a few months; don’t leave them waiting for over a year. Have you been approached by people smugglers? All the time! In Bogor, they recognise you and offer you trips to Australia for as low as $1,000. Some just take money and cheat you. Some offer a trip on a big boat all the way to New Zealand for $6,000 to $10,000 per person. There’s one people smuggler who offers plane trips to New Zealand via Bali and Sydney for $15,000 per person. This includes the ticket, a fake passport and paying off Indonesian Immigration so you can exit the country without problems. If Indonesian Immigration and Police wanted to stop the people smugglers, they could arrest them all in a week. We all know who they are! The Sri-Lankan people smugglers are good. They’re honest. The Indonesian people smugglers can be dangerous. There’s one guy who took money and put people in tiny boats that were unsafe. When the people complained, they got into trouble. How do you kill time in Jakarta? I read. I have the internet for keeping up to date with politics. And I watch DVDs.

were locked up and had to pay $1,000 to be released. That’s not as bad as being tortured or executed. Most Arabs coming to Indonesia are sex tourists; going to the nightclubs or buying a holiday wife. Iranians are not Arabs. Only our ruling mullahs are Arabs. We are Persians, who were conquered by Arabs and forced to become Muslims. Then the English supported the mullahs and the Ayatollah Khomeini when he overthrew the Shah of Iran in 1979, because BP was going to lose its oil contracts. After that, Khomeini took us to war with Iraq so that he could stay in power after breaking promises. It has been a mess ever since. Is there a solution to the problems in Iran? I don’t know. The people will have to take to the streets, like in Egypt. But there will be a lot of bloodshed, like in Syria, unless everyone protests. But the people are so afraid. What options do you have if denied refugee status? Single men can stay here and marry Indonesian women. Others go back to danger or death. When Rouhani became president, he announced that all Iranians living abroad could return home without any problems. One university lecturer who returned was given a very quick trial and sentenced to 10 years in jail. I have no plan to return.

MEET THE BALI EXPAT

MARK BAKER

The ‘Godfather’ of New York City nightlife and the International King of Clubs shares his amazing life story and deep love of Indonesia as he prepares to open additional venues in Jakarta, Singapore, and Bangkok.

Who is Mark Baker? I am originally from Brighton, England. I had a very unorthodox childhood — my father died of cancer when I was very young and my mother was dealing with life the best she could. So, I joined Chippenfield Circus when I was eight years old. When the circus left town I went with it. That was the start of my illustrious career of travelling. Obviously an eight, nine, tenyear-old boy in an environment which was not always a healthy one faced many challenges. The circus was fraught with fun and danger and all kinds of wonderful and terrible things. When I was eventually dragged back from the circus, I resumed my education, but that did not work out. I was very worldly compared to the other kids my age and was considered disruptive and influential. I possessed too much information! I started skateboarding at thirteen and became one of the top ranked skaters in the world by the time I was fifteen. I hooked up with a group of guys called The Dog-town Boys from Venice, California of which Tony Alva was the lead guy. We did world tours and were acting like rock stars. There was travel and parties and groupies. We did crazy things in hotel rooms. We were all having an insane time travelling around the world and getting paid for it; it was great! That all started to wind down by the early eighties. I went back to England and tried to have a day job; selling insurance, something ridiculous like that! Brighton is a town full of charismatic, wonderful, and dangerous people. Not having a proper education or a normal childhood, I would have ended up in trouble. So, I made a decision to try to get out. I met a group of fun, crazy guys from NYC, so I went to visit and I never left!

Chilean-born American, Karen Davis is a journalist, artist and art therapist. Formerly a NYC fashion designer, she has been coming to Bali since 1979 and now resides here.

You have been called the Godfather of NYC nightlife. How did the first all-British skateboard legend from Brighton make that huge leap? I started working as a waiter in the eighties and by the end of the eighties I had opened my own restaurant/club called Metro CC. The supermodel thing had just started and Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell and Elle McPherson were friends and regular clientele. Celebrities like Robert De Niro and Jack Nicholson, JFK Jr. and other colourful characters became regulars. This started my career in NYC, which was over twenty five years of owning and operating some of the top clubs in the city. We started to travel abroad to do parties and events like Fashion Week, Gran Prix, and Cannes

Film Festival. All those international events were attended by a lot of the same people who came to our NYC clubs and who made up the fashion, art and entertainment network of that era. They were our friends, our gang, and we protected their privacy. What was a big life-changing event in your life? The most life-changing event was landing in NYC. That made the difference between going downhill and going uphill. NYC is an incredible melting pot of madness and genius. You’ve got every black sheep dreamer in the world there. Some make it, some die, and some end up just trying to get by. But it is true that if you can make it there you can make it anywhere. Another life changer has been to make a permanent move from New York to Bali. Why did you choose Bali? Bali attracts a certain kind of personality. You have got to be an adventurer, a traveller, a bit of a pirate to end up on these shores. Bali has been a major influence in my life for many years. While I was still a waiter in NYC, I took a trip with my brother Allan, touring Southeast Asia on motorbikes; going to Thailand, sneaking into Burma, then on to Malaysia and finally Indonesia. I had always dreamed of Bali. The second I arrived in Indonesia, and especially Bali, I knew I loved this place; the people, the smiles, the landscape. This became my annual pilgrimage since 1985. I would come to Bali every August and sit up in Ubud overlooking Sayan terrace and sit in blissful silence. That to me was my magic place; my spiritual place. I have seen Bali go through so many changes, but it remains consistent in one thing; the magic, beauty and the spirituality is still here. Despite the growing problems of garbage and traffic, Bali is still a magical place. I am very mindful of the pros and cons of making a business in Bali and the impact it can have on the local community. We, in turn, do our best for the community and the environment. It took 25 years of local relationships and friendships without whose cooperation Townhouse wouldn’t have been possible. Bali has a way of showing its karmatic side quickly. I understand and learn more about the cultures and language every day. I kiss the ground every time I land here. What do you fear most in life? Losing my health or my liberty. With those two gifts you can do anything you want to do.

What do you love the most about life, right now, at this moment? Even after a morning, as busy as I’ve had, I love my life! I think since my father died so young of cancer, I have tried to fill every minute, every hour, of every day with as much as possible. I will not be on my death bed regretting I did not do enough in life. What are some of the weirdest experiences you have had in your life? Getting shot and stabbed. Mostly by lunatics denied entrance to clubs in New York and altercations I had to deal with in the clubs. One guy was aggressively abusing his girlfriend in a club. When I was escorting him out, his friends jumped me and held me while he shot me in the head. His gun misfired. His pistol whipped me and I needed sixty stitches in my head! This was in a nice club. Another time, a guy just ran across the room and started stabbing me. I have lots of scars. Violence and horror are part of NYC night life, along with glamour and excitement. What do you feel you have accomplished and what do you want to do in the future? I managed to make a living out of partying. I created this job by following my passion. I loved to skateboard and became a world champion. I create total environments for people to network; 24/7, dine well, relax, and dance crazy. I left NYC while still at the top. I have brought it all here to Bali. Not just the club but the Juice Press, the Lounge Club and the restaurant Canvas. I incorporated all our brands and translated it to Bali by creating Townhouse. Now we are bringing it to Jakarta, Singapore, and Bangkok. We attract an international mix of unique people in our venues. It’s not for the masses. It is geared to a chic, fashionable crowd of creative, intelligent and fun people. I would love to have children. I would give all the love and attention I never got to my own children. I’d help them navigate through life with a guiding hand, as opposed to the rather nightmare scenario I went through and that so many kids go through, without someone to protect and nurture them. We did a lot of work with children in NYC and I look forward to a bigger role in that area here in Indonesia and later throughout Asia, wherever we have venues. I want to share the love by giving back.

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TRAVEL

tales from an enchanted island

A Travel Diary of Flores

Grace Susetyo travels Indonesia with an appetite for her homeland's history and culture. Currently pursuing her Master of Development Studies in Wellington, NZ. Contact her at g.c.susetyo@gmail.com or @farawayisles

time in exile. Unfortunately every historical site there seemed to be closed for stupid reasons — the guardian of Sukarno’s house didn’t feel like working, and the theatre where the former president wrote plays had wild plants growing all over it.

Overlooking the Komodo Islands from Rinca Bay

Lush hills and steep cliffs overlooking lively villages and cerulean coasts adorn the winding roads of Flores from one corner to the other. While I’ve been to my share of Indonesian islands I’ve called beautiful, I have to say that there is something special about Flores. Despite Flores’s increasing popularity as a touristic destination, it still offers many off-the-beaten-path encounters. The peoples of Flores enjoy life as it is; refraining from the vices of excess, celebrating life values through creative expressions, and generously welcoming visitors from afar. Moreover, Flores is perhaps the Indonesian island where I’ve felt the safest as a solo backpacker. Our first stop in Flores was Roë, the village in which Nila Tanzil’s first Taman Bacaan Pelangi (Jakarta Expat issue 99) was founded. It was a rainy Wednesday afternoon, but about 50 kids ages eight to 12 braved the weather to meet us at the school which manages the library. The children seemed excited about getting visitors from Jakarta. Most of them have never travelled outside Flores. They seemed to find it a treat to be able to look at pictures of Java, Papua, and Sulawesi from my laptop screen, and asked us many questions about our families and jobs. It was amusing to watch my travel companion Tino try to explain to them what a computer programmer does. We also listened as the children told us about life in Roë. Many of them help their parents run the family farm or plantation, but still attend school with an enthusiastic learning spirit. A number of them make talented singers and poets too. Later that evening, our hosts slaughtered a chicken for us and cooked us traditional Manggarai dishes. Our next stop was Wae Rebo, a restricted highland village famous for its conical straw houses. Being frugal, we took an oto kayu (a modified truck that resembles an open-air bus with wooden seats) to Dintor. With speakers booming with sappy Eastern Indonesian ballads, the four-hour ride through narrow serpentine roads, mountain

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jungles and valley villages, made for an adventure in itself.

In Nita, a village south of Maumere, I spent a night at Sentra Tenun Ikat Lepo Lorun. There I was greeted by the ladies who were busy making bolo plagar - riceflour cookies made in the shape of Maumere textile patterns, taught from mothers to daughters to someday make for the man who asks for their hand in marriage.

Dintor, a fisherman’s village on the south coast of Flores, is where our Wae Rebo hosts (or their semi-modern alter egos) live. We spent the afternoon walking through the ricefields and sitting on the shores of the white rock beach overlooking Pulau Mules. Our arrival coincided with a special ceremony officiating the renovation of a rumah adat in Wae Rebo the next morning, so we left Dintor at 3.30am in order to make it to Wae Rebo on foot by 8am. Wae Rebo’s sacred aura, I believe, has little to do with the peculiar traditional fashion, architecture, or music. It has more to do with the respect this contemporary community pays to their land and the values their ancestors taught them, and their assertive expectations that visitors do the same. Our next stop was Ruteng, where we visited Liang Bua, a cave where ancient hominids lived. Homo floresiensis, also known as the “Flores hobbit”, was a species of short humans that were believed to be fast runners and able speakers. We spent time with a local old man who claims to be a descendant of the hobbit. Tino and I travelled back to Labuan Bajo and parted there as he caught a flight back to Jakarta. After spending that afternoon at the tranquil Danau Sano Nggoang with the friendly locals, I tried my luck the next day hitching a cheap ride to Komodo National Park. I ended up in a boat to Rinca with a middle-aged couple from Riau. The journey to Rinca was one gliding on emerald seascapes, with a myriad of lush islands in sight. There we spotted a band of the famous Komodo dragon, watched some nests, and went for a short trek - which I found too short but the Mrs. found exhausting. We then went for a snorkel at Pulau Kelor, which unfortunately has a miserable underwater view of dead bleached coral. I finally headed eastbound once more and visited Bena, a village near Bajawa that is also famous for the distinctive rumah adat.

When the road from Ende to Kelimutu collapsed the next day, I wish I had gone to Riung on the north coast instead. To get to Maumere I had to detour via Mbay up north — an hour’s drive from Riung - but couldn’t visit the famous white sand beach because the bus leaving for Maumere via the north coast hell road left at dawn.

FAST FACTS Country: Indonesia Province: Nusa Tenggara Timur (NTT) Land Area: 14,300 km2 Highest Elevation: Inerie (near Bena, Bajawa) 2,245 m Largest city: Maumere Population: 1,500,000 (2006 estimate) How to get there Daily flights to Labuan Bajo from Jakarta and Bali (Garuda Indonesia, Lion Air) Daily flights to Maumere from Bali and Kupang (Sky Aviation, TransNusa, Wings Air)

Alfonsa Horeng, the internationally reputed leader of STILL, took me on a personal tour through her gardens, showing me the plants from which her textile’s fibres and colours come. One of her weavers demonstrated the fermentation of indigo and the spinning of cotton threads. We had a lively conversation on the role of tenun ikat textiles in keeping community values alive, and compared the value of Flores’s traditional agricultural-based economy to the modern money-oriented economy. My visit to the tricolour lakes Kelimutu the next day didn’t turn out very auspicious as thick mist descended over the view. But perhaps that’s only a sign that I should return here someday. After all, the lakes’ colours change like a chameleon’s coat - they won’t be the same lakes on my next visit.

What to bring Sunscreen, a hat, snorkelling and diving gear, hiking shoes.

Legend has it that the ancestors of Bena came from Java, and they prayed to their ancestors by plating offerings on the megalithic altars, hence the name Ba-Jawa - plate from Java. The local architecture is embedded with philosophies of life, procreation, and the struggle to survive. The landscapes are surrounded by lush mountains looking out to the coast. My next stop was Ende - a beautiful coastal town laced with black-sand beaches and mountain views, where Sukarno spent some

I finished my trip in Maumere with a Christmas Eve mass in Katedral St. Yoseph and a White Christmas morning. No, it wasn’t snowing - just very bad rain that covered this coastal city with bad fog. An alternative universe where the ancient and the modern coexist, the lair of the dragon, hobbits in a cave, commoners wearing woven robes fit for royals embedded with secret messages, and mysterious lakes that change colours these might as well have been written in an exotic oriental fairytale. But in the enchanted island of Flores, I witnessed these tales as real life. And sharing part of them with a fellow adventurer who stole my heart only multiplies the joy of the journey manifolds.

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FACES OF INDONESIA

Pak Anden the Dayak Elder and Village Chief

Pak Anden greeted me by smudging my forehead and cheeks with a white powdered paste. After I received my traditional Dayak blessing, we talked about the issues facing his village Kanarakan, located on the Rungan River in Central Kalimantan, two hours by boat from the modern city of Palangkaraya, the capital of this huge province. A calm and gentle man, Pak Anden was born in 1942 and has seen huge changes in his 70 plus years, some good and some not so good. The last few years in particular have seen tremendous changes in his village and the local environment and he considers the greatest challenges to be the pollution of the Kahayan River from illegal gold mining, the destruction of the environment from the many palm oil plantations in the area, lack of educational opportunities for the children, and how to educate the farmers to move to sustainable farming methods. Pak Anden conveyed his concerns to me as we talked in the front porch of his simple dwelling. “It is hard to get the people in the village to understand that we must consider the future generations when we use the land and the rivers. Without them we are nothing. The people in the village have grown up with plentiful food and fish, however things are now changing and unless we change our ways, our village will not survive and we will have to move to the city. I fear for the future of our culture if this was to happen.” Pak Anden is a visionary man and sees the solutions in education and part of this is welcoming outside visitors. “We have 12

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had visits recently from Prince Henrik of Denmark, the Australian and Norwegian Ambassador and the ex Prime Minister of Denmark, Mr. Large Rasmussen.” “I hope they can help us with education and support for our health program,” he said, “We want many visitors to come and stay in our village. We have a home stay program and love to express our Dayak culture by telling stories and expressing our culture through music that has been passed down from our ancestors.” Anden’s daughter Firiasi is the first person in the village to complete a tertiary education. She gained her degree in midwifery in 1993 and moved back to the village in 2003. Lia is also a nurse and is responsible for the health services in the village, including health education, not just for Kanarakan, but the nearby villages. As Anden bid me farewell, I felt the people of his village were in very safe hands as this man has tremendous passion and love for his village despite the many challenges that lay ahead.

David Metcalf (Dayak Dave) is a professional photographer who specialises in photography workshop tours and cultural, adventure tours throughout Indonesia. Please visit his website www. davidmetcalfphotography.com and www.facebook.com/indodave.

FOOD & DRINK

ROCK WITH YOU - HARD ROCK CAFÉ JAKARTA Such a stellar name, The Hard Rock Café is a strong, ongoing presence in any big city. The name resounds with the familiar feeling of eating out, listening to good music and good drinks. Yet the newly renovated and relocated Hard Rock Café Jakarta has a few more surprises than meets the eye.

Legendary 10oz Burger Strawberry Basil Lemonade

Rp. 177.589 Rp. 59.197

The newly revamped Hard Rock Café took a new location to call home. After months of hiatus, Hard Rock Café is no longer located at EX but in the Pacific Place mall. This new venue allows for a bigger, more accessible entry way, unrestricted to mall entrances, which is a standard requirement for all Hard Rock Cafés. This renovation is part of a worldwide rejuvenation of the chain into adopting the epithet ‘Reborn’.

The Hard Rock Café is also vegetarian-friendly. The Veggie Leggie burger is a great vegetarian dish, prepared with a vegetarian patty, Portobello mushroom, roasted red pepper and other vegetables seasoned with lemon mayo. A selection of fresh salads is also available. The Hard Rock Café’s has a few fixed items on the menu across its worldwide venues, but they also have autonomy in creating local Indonesianinfluenced dishes like nasi goreng and the likes. They will also start launching Indonesian drinks, with locally sourced exotic fruits and zest, soon.

The ‘reborn’ title doesn’t change much in the philosophy of Hard Rock Café as it does the atmosphere of the restaurant and bar. The Hard Rock Café was mainly associated with just that; hard rock music. Now, the born-again venue features a more relaxed lounge setting, familyfriendly and suitable for all ages. The open air bar outside is quite refreshing; great for laid back happy hour drinks with friends. The patio opens right up to the streets of SCBD and is a great way of embracing Jakarta in all its glory over drinks as the sun sets.

For drinks, we chose the Electric Iced Tea, Strawberry Basil Lemonade, and the Tropical Rock. The iced tea was a refreshing mix of gin, rum, sweet and sour mix, and splash of soda. Its electric blue colour was an eye-catcher. The lemonade was quite a unique drink; the use of basil leaves instead of the ordinary mint leaves in this drink is quite a curveball, and quite a successful one at that. But the winner on drinks has to be the Tropical Rock. It is a delightful concoction of raspberry vodka, crème de banana liqueur, pineapple juice and a dash of melon liqueur. It’s similar to a pina colada, but the raspberry vodka makes all the difference.

The marvellous display of musician’s gears and instruments is still a trademark of Hard Rock Café. Every seven years, these memorabilia cased in glass are taken down and changed with new ones. Currently, a majestic Aerosmith drum set highlights one corner of the Hard Rock Café Jakarta. Another corner, called The Jakarta Tribute Wall, houses more memorabilia of bands that have performed in Jakarta.

My gastronome partner chose the muchanticipated Legendary 10oz Burger as his entrée.

Also a large portion, yet wasn’t a feat for him to finish as it is as delicious as it’s hyped up to be. The large, succulent beef patty, coupled with turkey bacon, is decorated with cheese, lettuce, tomato and pickles, with a slight twist; a juicy onion ring is wedged in between. One thing that would propel this burger to another level is, perhaps, more pickles to give a playful character. But all in all, it’s quite a hearty, tasty American burger. For a rich and warm dessert, we tried the delicious Fresh Apple Cobbler. It was garnished with vanilla ice cream, walnuts and a drizzle of caramel sauce. Once again, this dish is made for sharing.

Only two months have passed since the grand opening, and the Hard Rock Café has already attracted many regulars and newly-converted regulars. This new location is, perhaps, the great deciding factor for the business; the SCBD area is known to charm neighbouring office workers for lunch meetings and after-office drinks. At around 4pm this place is already packed with diners and happy hour fans.

But it’s not all about the music and décor; many come for the mouth-watering, large portioned American food. For Indonesian standards, the size of dishes is quite big, unless you are sharing. The best-selling item on the menu — and a great sharing dish — is the Hard Rock Nachos. Devour this as a midday snack with some refreshing drinks. The sharp cheddar cheese atop fresh tortilla chips is such a guilty pleasure. Not only that, the trimmings make the dish all the more flavourful; there’s a layer of homemade queso, seasoned pinto beans, sour cream, pico de gallo, jalapenos and some salsa. The cheesy tone is not too heavy as it is combined with the playful and refreshing salsa. And the jalapenos give a little kick to this Mexican-inspired comfort food.

by Gabriella Panjaitan

The prices of food ranges from Rp.40,000 to Rp.400,000 per dish. If you are looking for a good value to price ratio, you’ll be satisfied with the Hard Rock Café’s menu.

RATING SUMMARY FOOD SERVICE VALUE ATMOSPHERE The Hard Rock Café is a non-smoking space until 10pm.

LOCATION Hard Rock Café Jakarta Pacific Place Ground Floor G-05, SCBD Lot 3-5 Jl. Jend. Sudirman Kav. 54-55, Jakarta Phone: +62 (0) 5797-3055

The new Hard Rock Café Jakarta is also making some changes in the music department. The song choices and the videos played are more inclusive of different genres compared to the old rock-and-rollonly selections. Live music is the bread and butter of Hard Rock Cafés and this new Jakarta venue has a more varied daily house band. I Like Monday and Flashback are two of the many regular live music programs they host; the former being themed, such as I Like Rock or I Like Jazz, and the latter is a flashback session for bands who have played at Hard Rock before. Lunch is the busiest time to visit Hard Rock Café. But their servers — a very friendly and happy bunch of people — will serve you well and make your visit all the more enjoyable. The new layout sure is an invitation for crowds of all ages to go through a familiar Hard Rock Café experience with a twist. Rock out with the new Hard Rock Café Jakarta; they’re ready to rock with you!

issue 111 indonesia expat

Rama sending his signet ring to Sita

LITERATURE

balinese literature:

a moveable feast In understanding Balinese literature, we must start with a religion and mythology founded in India over 3,500 years ago. The Ramayana and Mahabharata epics have played a gigantic role in Balinese art, theatre and letters. The Mahabharata, with 100,000 couplets is the longest poem in the world, telling the story of a tremendous 18-day-long battle fought between two family groups in the legendary state of Bharat during India’s Vedic Age (1500-500 BC). Translated into the high language of Kawi in the Middle Ages, Bali’s rich classical literature is largely based on this Indian masterpiece. The Ramayana, containing 18 books and 24,000 verses divided into 500 songs, is about the Aryan hero Rama (Vishnu reincarnated) who defeats the wicked King Rawana of Ceylon who has stolen his consort and is generally troubling the world. The Ramayana provides the inspiration for Balinese dance dramas such as the Kecak and Legong. Written over 2,000 years ago, this epic is as old as Homer’s Iliad. The poem also incorporates the same legend; the abduction of a great beauty followed by a terrible war to rescue her. One of the greatest and most influential works of Indonesian literature is Sutasoma, which relates the life of a prince born as one of the incarnations of Buddha, a Bodhisattva. Throughout Buddhist Asia there are many variations on the story of how this divine being subdued the alldevouring demon Purusada. Sutasoma is comparable in both complexity and scale to that of the Ramayana. Episodes from the poem are often alluded to in Balinese literature, regularly recited and studied in

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contemporary Balinese wayang theatre and frequently seen in Balinese temple sculpture. Another of Bali’s most enduring classics is taken from the story of Calonarang. Acted out in a powerful dance drama, this is the struggle of King Airlangga to save his kingdom from destruction by the widowwitch Rangda. This famous literary work continues to exert a strong influence in modern-day Balinese culture. The character of Calonarang demonizes of the mystical powers of female seers that have taken place in patriarchal cultures across history. Anthropologists and drama historians see the drama’s central character Rangda originally as a maternal figure, the personification of the witch par excellence, the wise and eternal old crone. Historians claim that she was the legendary Queen Mahendratta from an 11th century East Javanese kingdom. Some of Bali’s oldest “books” are sacred lontar palm leaf manuscripts produced from the 16th century onward. The Gedong Kirtya library in Singaraja houses a collection of 4,000-odd lontar books which record the literature, mythology, calendars, horoscopes, folklore, rituals, black and white magic, medical science, genealogies and histories of Bali. There are also handbooks on law and ethical codes, holy incantations, village regulations, how to care for horses, singing doves and fighting cocks. The most precious are kept in a special air-conditioned room. Novels of the Modern Era A dozen or so modern books are essential reading in the understanding of the extraordinary changes that have taken place in Bali beginning early in the 20th century.

Bill Dalton has been writing travel features, book reviews, interviews and guidebooks about Indonesia for more than 40 years, starting with his groundbreaking Indonesia Handbook first published in 1976. Bill lives on a farm with his Indonesian family deep in the countryside of West Bali.

Several books deal with the initial clash of civilizations that resulted from the first European incursions into Bali. First published in 1937, A Tale from Bali by Vicki Baum is a fictionalized account of the horrific ritual suicide, which took place in colonial South Bali in 1906 when Dutch soldiers slaughtered the Royal family of Badung and their followers. After hearing a recording of Balinese gamelan in the late 1920’s, a young Canadian-born composer living in New York dreamed of one day visiting the source. Among the world’s first ethnomusicologists, Colin McPhee arrived in 1931 at a time when Bali was undergoing a prolific explosion of the arts. He lived on Bali for eight years until the very eve of World War II. His book A House in Bali was the first narrative of the island by a classically trained musician. The book is referred to frequently in academic monographs as a classic, not only of literature, but of musicology and ethnography as well. An American traveller’s experiences in Bali in the late 1920s covering daily life, village customs and temple festivals, are masterfully told in Hickman Powell’s timeless classic Last Paradise. Island of Demons by Nigel Barley is a fascinating historical novel about Walter Spies — a famous ethnographer, choreographer, filmmaker and painter - in Campuan in the 1930s. Our Hotel in Bali is the story of two Americans who arrived in Bali in 1936 and opened a hotel on Kuta Beach, the first Bali-style hotel at a time when tourists were just beginning to arrive on the island. Other important works cover the postwar nation-building period. Dancing out of Bali, first published in 1954, tells the story of a young Englishman, John Coast, who has just been released from a

Japanese prison camp. In 1952, he and his Javanese wife brought a Balinese dance and gamelan troupe to Britain and the USA to huge acclaim. His book is a remarkable personal adventure that would be of interest, not only to Balinists, but also for all readers. K’tut Tantri in her book Revolt in Paradise tells the gripping story of Britishborn artist and adventurer Muriel Pearson, known in Java as Surabaya Sue and in Bali as K’tut Tantri. The most exciting chapters chronicle her experiences during the early years of Bali’s tourism industry and Indonesia’s struggle for independence. The Night of the Purnama by Anna Mathews is an evocative description of village life in Iseh in eastern Bali at the time of the catastrophic eruption of Gunung Agung in 1963. During the following six months it poured out ash, lava and volcanic bombs, burying whole villages, destroying rice fields, killing nearly 2,000 people, and bringing terror and famine to hundreds and thousands more. In more recent times, William Ingram in his book A Little Bit One O’clock has written a heart-warming and insightful account of an expatriate American living with a Balinese family in the 1990s. As for children’s literature, A Club of Small Men by Colin McPhee is the true story of men and boys from ages six to 60 who created a gamelan group in Sayan village in the 1930s. Also worth picking up is Balinese Children’s Favourite Stories, which contains 12 tales for kids aged four to eight, some based on Aesop, others are authentically Balinese, with paintings illustrating the stories. Gecko’s Complaint is a folktale about fireflies with colourful and charming pen and ink drawings by Sukanada. Sadri Returns to Bali portrays the 10-day Galungan festival through the eyes of a former child dancer, a joyous time when the gods come down to earth to visit and be entertained.

LIFESTYLE

E-NNOVATION NEWS

Take a Seat with DUDUK by Gabriella Panjaitan

GOOGLE ALTERNATIVE HELPS RAINFOREST REGENERATION THROUGH AD CLICKS Germany-based search engine Ecosia enables users to generate income for rainforest programs by directing ad revenue to charities. It’s donating 80 percent of its profits to tree planting in Brazil and has so far raised in excess of €250,000. Search advertising is a colossal business that touches pretty much every web user. So a search engine that diverts the bulk of the cash raised to protecting a rainforest in northern Brazil looks, like all the best ideas, simple and good.

As they rode on a train to Cirebon from Jakarta, two Dutch ladies by the names of Naomi Pescheux and Judith Bakker tried to decide on a name; a name later used for their blossoming enterprise. They landed on DUDUK as the name and brand of batik-inspired interior design they are proud to home-make. DUDUK wasn’t just about the entrepreneurship of two creative and independent ladies; it was a coming out of a new genre of colourful, comfortable range that has the potential to brighten up any home. I sat down with these ladies to hear about their journey. Tell us about the birth of DUDUK. Why did you decide to go into this business? We were just two soon-to-be first-time mums; Judith directly from Holland and Naomi from postings in Singapore, Bangkok and Vientiane. We were new to Jakarta and we looked around for baby things like cribs, a playpen, pillows and all that to get our baby rooms ready. Some things were still missing at the time, like a baby sleeping bag, which though available here can be quite expensive. Around the time when we weren’t as busy with the babies anymore, as they grew and we gained more independence and free time to go back to work, we were very keen to get into something creative yet flexible enough that we can work from home. We journeyed back to our pregnancy days and reminisced about the need for affordable and stylish baby products in Jakarta. It took some guts but we finally went for it and started looking for sample materials in Cirebon, sewed and completed our first finished product, and the DUDUK line was born. We saw a growing number of home-based entrepreneurships in Jakarta too; which encouraged us to establish one for ourselves. Jakarta’s a good place for a start-up business like this, we think, because you’re in a luxurious position where you have help with the kids and the support of at least one salary, that you have the freedom to explore your creative side. What was the first item you made? We were toying around with the idea of making a tipi tent as a play area for kids. So initially, there were three things that we agreed to start out with when DUDUK was first set up; the triangle pillows, the tipi tents, and the baby sleeping bags. Is one of you savvier on the business side and the other on the creative side? How do you divide the labour? Naomi: There’s not really any division

of tasks. I guess Judith is better with a sewing machine than I am. Judith: But Naomi is better at experimenting. Naomi: I come from a family of entrepreneurs, so when the ball started rolling on DUDUK I realised I had it in me, too, to make this work. But we both do the creative designing and the business stuff together.

range from the minis for kids to large floor cushions (Rp.150,000 to Rp.420,000. The little chairs also sell very well. We also have the poofs (ranging from Rp.420,000 to Rp.540,000) and the baby sleeping bags are great baby shower gifts. We are also venturing into a line of bedding for junior and single sized beds, since that is another thing we found to be really expensive here.

How did you sell the very first finished product to the public? We were invited to a friend’s open house so we displayed and sold DUDUK products there. It was just the kick we needed to gear into a faster mode to get everything ready. From that event we saw that this could really work.

Where are your products sold? Our first retail spot will be in AlunAlun in Grand Indonesia Mall on 7-21 February 2014. This will be a trial show, and if we do well, we’ll have DUDUK’s products in the permanent collection, most likely to be sold in Grand Indonesia, Lippo Mall Kemang and in Bali. We’re also hoping to have a booth at the IFEX Trade Expo in March. Hopefully then, we’ll have larger orders and have a bigger presence outside of Indonesia as well. We would like to see DUDUK make it to Holland by the end of the year! We’re excited and hopeful because we’ve had a great response thus far.

How has DUDUK progressed since then? It has grown very organically since we launched DUDUK in early 2013. Once we started, we’ve gotten so many more ideas, now it’s hard to stop them rolling in. We are constantly inspired by the creativity of the Indonesian people (especially their batik) and by the many materials around us too, like rattan which is used to make the chairs we carry, bamboo which we used in building our tipi tents, etc. We created a lot of fun things to put around the house and they are received well by local costumers and even by tourists and expats who would like to bring something from Indonesia back to their countries. Our products started with things that kids can sit in or on, hence ‘DUDUK’, but we are expanding from there a little bit. We now have batik bags, lamps, etc. Some customers have asked us for adultsized items when they shop for their kids; so we’re venturing into the adult’s section now as well, adding adult-sized rattan chairs and triangle pillows. What’s the trademark style of DUDUK? People have begun to recognize our signature modern batik motif now. The colour combinations we chose are very vibrant; it’s suitable for a kid’s setting. One of our customers has coined our style “Indo chic”, and that stuck. What items do you have in stock right now? Which item is your best seller? The best seller would probably be the tipi tents. We sell them for Rp.1,200,000. They’re great and dads love to read bedtime stories in the tipi on top of the carpet that we sell separately. But our pillows are also a big hit; people keep coming back to buy more of them. The pillows

What future plans do you have for DUDUK? Big plans. We would love to see the business continue to grow, then the next big step is exporting. We have had many requests from Norway to Australia to the US, so now that we've registered DUDUK in the Netherlands we hope to start exporting to other parts of the world. We will also start designing our own batik fabrics and that will be a turning point for DUDUK in order to become more ‘green’. Initially, all the fabrics came from Cirebon, but now we have someone to make the batik materials; that allows us to have more control over the production. The batik industry is actually one that produces much pollutant. We want to reduce this negative impact as much as we can. We’re now in talks with someone from the Clean Batik Initiative - the EcoBatik line - to help make this possible. We are also looking for organic cotton suppliers. That’s one of our ambitions; that the bigger we grow the less we impact negatively on the environment. That’s how we want to progress in the future. CATCH DUDUK'S EXHIBITION: 7–21 February 2014 Alun-Alun Indonesia Grand Indonesia West Building Jl. MH Thamrin Kav. 28–30, Central Jakarta Visit www.facebook.com/dudukshop for more detail on DUDUK’s collection.

APP TRANSLATES CINEMA AUDIO INTO ANY LANGUAGE

MyLINGO lets cinemagoers listen to foreign language audio dubs of new movie releases privately through their smartphone. Movie studios produce audio tracks in up to 25 different languages; however, these alternative versions are never available in movie theatres. MyLINGO makes the movie theatre experience available to all audiences, regardless of the native language by way of the app perfectly synchronising the movie’s audio with the right spot on the film.

SOCIAL MUSIC BOX JUDGES PARTY CROWD AND VIBE, THEN SELECTS THE PERFECT TRACKS

Chüne is a smart music curator that takes into account people’s different music tastes, as well as the vibe of the occasion. The miniscule music box could be the key to a perfect party playlist, with its app-controlled ability to make sure the music appeals to everyone in the room. The tiny box allows party guests to tell it their musical tastes.

AFFORDABLE PLUG ADAPTERS MAKE ANY APPLIANCE SMARTPHONE-CONTROLLED

Beijing-based Plugaway enables consumers to simply plug an adapter into each power socket to turn whatever is connected into a smart device. The system can also be used to monitor electricity consumption, schedule and time appliances, and set up device alerts and notifications. Plugaway’s aim is to reduce the costs of hooking your old-school household appliances into the tap-happy convenience of apps. They’re doing this by offering two pieces of kit: smart plugs, so you can plug any appliance in and remotely switch it on or off, and smart LEDs, so you can remotely control lights.

issue 111 indonesia expat

BUSINESS PROFILE

general manager of rumah123.com

MARIO GAW by Angela Richardson

Mario, firstly congratulations on your new title of General Manager of Rumah123. com, which you started in January this year. You are effectively the most senior person running the operations of Rumah123.com. What are your main responsibilities and how large a team do you manage? Thanks, Angela! My main responsibilities are to lead, manage and represent the Indonesia business incorporating rumah123.com and rumahdanproperti.com teams to achieve business goals, objectives and financial and non-financial KPIs. The current team in Indonesia is about 8085 people and we are growing. I am very excited to be part of this growth! How has the transition from VP of Pricing & Production at Lazada Indonesia to GM of Rumah123.com been, going from managing an e-commerce site to online property? The transition has been interesting from day one. Despite the same nature of being online businesses, both run completely different business models. In a way, the online property classifieds business is a simpler model, without the need to deal with physical inventory, logistics, etc., but nonetheless, it has been nothing short of challenges that are both exciting and fulfilling! There are lots of new things to learn especially about the industry, market, and its specific customers among other things.

With the fresh new look of Indonesia Expat, we will be regularly shining a light on successful businessmen and women in Indonesia, Expatriate and Indonesian, to discover more about their journey and their business, and what drives them personally. We’re kicking off our series with an interview with Mario Gaw, General Manager of Rumah123.com.

Can you please tell us a little bit about Rumah123.com and the iProperty Group? Rumah123.com was established in Jakarta in January 2007 with about 30 employees. The company was then owned by Saratoga Capital, which is controlled by Edwin Soeryadjaya and Sandiaga Uno. In 2011, the iProperty Group, an ASX-listed company based in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, that owns leading online property portal websites in Asia, acquired Rumah123.com after identifying Indonesia as a natural growth market for its business. Since the iProperty Group acquired Rumah123.com, it has become home to the largest number of property listings and property agents in Indonesia with numbers far exceeding its competitors. The company continues to see significant growth in all key metrics, a clear indication that Rumah123.com is continuing to meet the needs of both its consumers and customers. We provide consumers with the most comprehensive and up-to-date property related news and the best property search experience. We are also committed in being the partner of choice for our

customers by working together with them to grow their business. To date, Rumah123.com has more than 247,000 listings and over 8,000 property agents. On a monthly basis, there are over 1.8 million visitors that turn to Rumah123. com to search for their dream home or next property investment, which in turn results in the portal delivering more than 485,000 leads to its agents. What motivated you to take on the position of GM of Rumah123.com? What is your ultimate goal in this position? I was approached by the iProperty Group to discuss a possible role which I could play in theirRumah123.com business in order to take it to the next level. They have clearly determined that Indonesia was an important market for them and that a local General Manager was a key part of their strategy in order to take the business further. It was important for them to find the right candidate. Their seriousness was shown through my recruitment process where I not only met Shaun Di Gregorio, CEO of iProperty Group, but also Patrick Grove, Chairman of iProperty Group & CEO of the Catcha Group. I was impressed by them and was motivated to take on this new, big and exciting challenge of pushing the business forward and making a significant impact on how Indonesians search for the right properties for them to own, live in or invest. My ultimate goal as General Manager of Rumah123.com is to ensure that Rumah123.com continues to be the leader in its market by providing the best property hunting experience possible. At the same time, to become the best qualified leads generation tool for customers and partners. What challenges do you and have you faced in the online industry in Indonesia? What are your thoughts in internet connection speeds in relation to their prices? How and when will this improve? Although the online industry has seen tremendous growth in the past few years, fuelled by the ever-increasing internet penetration in Indonesia, it is still early and young. There is still a lot of work to be done in improving internet accessibility, speed, costs and education. Internet speed compared to its costs is still quite low but on the bright side, improvements are definitely coming.

BUSINESS SNIPPET

Google Slaughters Indonesia in 2013

Composite Index (^JKSE) - Jakarta

Source: Yahoo! Finance

by Martin Jenkins

Google is one of the largest companies in the world. In fact, it is so large a company that you can’t really compare its value to any individual Indonesian company — rather you have to compare it to the entire value of Indonesia’s stock market, or what is better known as the market cap.

To me this didn’t make much sense. How could one single company, operating almost exclusively in the virtual world, be worth more than all the Indonesian cement producers, mining, property and retail firms, banks, agribusiness firms and telecom companies etc. combined?

5.20K

When I first did the calculations back in 2006, Google was valued at US$130 billion and worth more than all the Indonesian companies put together (just US$80 billion).

Surely Indonesia as a growing emerging economy would catch up? And it did.

4.20K

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In 2011, Indonesia’s stock market was valued at 1.87 times Google. And in 2012,

5.00K 4.80K 4.60K 4.40K

4.00K 2013

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We recently saw the launch of a new special mobile device named Bolt offering 4G mobile internet service in Indonesia and First Media, a local ISP, quietly rolled out its 4G internet speed service offering up to 100 Mbps starting in Jakarta last month. I am confident and hopeful that it will continue to improve even faster as consumer demands for better services grows. Let’s talk business. How much is the website Rumah123.com worth? What are your projections for 2014? As rumah123.com operates under the iProperty Group, the company recently released its 4C statement, reporting growth in cash collections driving a net operating cash flow result of A$0.16 m for the quarter. Cash receipts from operating activities for the period amounted to A$5.4 m, an increase of 31% from the corresponding period in 2012. We have big plans for 2014. We are geared for a fantastic growth and I am confident that our talented team will continue to break new grounds. We will continue to focus on providing innovative advertising solutions to property developers and property agents. It is also our commitment to provide consumers searching for property with the best possible user experience, driven by innovation with a ‘mobile first’ focus. What is your business model — where is the bulk of revenue generated? Our business model is primarily based in paid advertising. We consider ourselves an online media company and we generate our revenues from listing fees, premium listings, online banners and marketing solutions, and other secondary products such as property expos and print media. How do you gather all the information to populate your website? How many property agents do you work with? Do you work with private owners too? We have sales teams that focus on working with property agents and property developers on getting their listings or offerings online as quickly as possible. We have more than 8,000 property agents actively listing on our site. Yes, private owners are also welcomed on our site. Back to more personal questions, you studied Computer Science at Simon Fraser University in Canada and lived in Canada for nearly 10 years. What was the deciding factor to return to Indonesia?

Indonesia was still valued at 1.69 times Google. But in 2013, things reversed as Google’s valuation soared and the value of Indonesian companies slumped as the Rupiah nosedived. In fact, Google’s share price surged 53.91 percent in 2013, translating into total market capitalization of US$374.68 billion (up from US$232 billion at the end of 2012). In contrast, Indonesian share prices sank as investors lost confidence and pulled their money out of the country. To make matters worse for foreign investors, they also had to shoulder massive forex losses as the beleaguered Rupiah lost 20% of its value.

Vancouver, BC, is a very beautiful city and place to live in. It was very hard for me and my wife to leave behind. However, I was determined to return to Indonesia for two primary reasons. First was to be closer to parts of my family still residing in Indonesia. Second was that I was reading a lot of news on how Asia and especially Indonesia and other countries in the Southeast Asia region was experiencing strong economic growth in recent years. Being Indonesian myself, I was curious enough about it and was willing to move back and try to find opportunities where I would be able to use what I’ve learned overseas to benefit the Indonesian economy and people. You are concerned about social issues such as poverty and disaster relief. What social projects are you involved in and do you think it’s important to get involved with charity work? Absolutely. I believe we should all try to do our part in giving back to our community and to those who need help. I personally do not think I have done enough on any specific social issues, however I have always been interested in various initiatives related to building schools and/or churches to remote parts of Indonesia. Helping kids attain proper education would equip them with the right tools to be able to lift themselves and family out of poverty in the future. What motivates you to go to work every morning? There are many things that motivate me to go to work every morning, but if I had to narrow it to just one thing, it would be family. When I was growing up, I was constantly reminded by my parents to make them really proud one day. Even though I knew that my mum was already proud of me as I went to college, eventually graduated and received my first pay cheque from my first job, my dad did not have the opportunity to see any of it. He had passed away when I was 14 years old due to health reasons. Since then, I have made it my personal goal to work hard and give my best in everything that I do. I want to see where life takes me by constantly challenging and improving myself. Nowadays, my lovely supportive wife is another source of motivation of mine.

Martin Jenkins comes from good old England but has spent most of his adult life abroad. Wary investor, keen traveller. Writer also. www.al-terity.blogspot.com

As a result, by the end of 2013, Indonesia was worth just US$347 billion or 0.93 times Google’s valuation. Of course, the data may just be a blip and Indonesia should perform much better in 2014. After all, what could possibly go wrong? issue 111 indonesia expat

PROPERTY WATCH

Paul Enrich is a freelance writer covering tales and topics as diverse as life around us. Always in transit mode, he’s continually on the move: one moment here, the next there in search for that tale to tell.

2014 is the Year of the Horse in the Chinese astrological calendar. Characteristically fast and powerful, are these attributes of the horse predicted to continue in the Indonesian property industry in 2014? Bali, in particular, has experienced phenomenal real estate growth in recent years, riding through global upheavals seemingly unscathed and looking very unlikely to abate. But, with all growth trends, the bubble has to ultimately burst. Is 2014 the year for that to happen?

indonesian property trends 2014

Is This the Year the Bubble Bursts?

There are some industry observers and property consultants predicting the Indonesian property industry is entering a phase of slowdown in the Year of the Horse. In Bali, there have been concerns raised in recent months about the rapid — and in some circumstances, ridiculous — increase in prices, lagging infrastructure, future oversupply, and the more serious long-term problem of environmental sustainability that will most likely create volatility that could ultimately break the island’s long-standing growth trend. Analysts reviewing the overall growth prospects of Indonesia’s property sector as a whole in 2014 do so amid the country’s slowing economic expansion, tighter monetary policy, the depreciating Rupiah, and uncertainties about the country’s legislative and presidential elections in mid-2014. These issues are forecast to impact significantly this year. Although, the slowdown prediction does not seem to be viewed pessimistically by property developers in marketing new products and setting high sales targets. One such company, PT Megapolitan Development, has set a 2014 growth target of 25 percent and aims to aggressively market its new products. Fanny Setiati, Megapolitan Corporate Secretary, says the company’s optimistic estimation is based on property sales that grew by more than 50 percent during 2013 compared to 2012.

indonesia expat issue 111

Where there is demand there is growth, and the reason for continued strong property demand in Indonesia? Four years of strong economic growth. Additionally, property demand in Indonesia is being driven by a growing middle class and increasing affluence. The country’s emerging middle and middle-to-high end consumers may reach 184.5 million by 2020, according to forecasts by the Boston Consulting Group Inc. Rising purchasing power and positive urban demographic trends are predicted to drive property demand. As the country develops into a better and stronger economy with businesses accelerating at a faster pace, and with real estate demand still outstripping supply, the bubble may yet have more room to expand, even though residential property, in particular, has been something of a puzzle. Indonesia has the world’s fourth largest population of 245 million people. Despite strong economic growth and high levels of investment, some factors that have hampered the growth of Indonesia’s housing market are high mortgage interest rates, high costs of building materials, high tax rates, and red tape in government. With the release of the Indonesia Economic Quarterly in March 2013 by The World Bank, the Central Bank (Bank Indonesia) introduced measures to curb Indonesians’ demand for housing, particularly because it detected speculative buying in the country’s property sector. Certain measures have been introduced, for instance, the rise in the benchmark interest rate (BI Rate) by 175 basis points to 7.5 percent leading to higher mortgage interest rates, the progressive policy of loan to value (LTV) ratios for a second home, as well as restrictions on indent house credit applications. Despite the government and financial regulators implementing steps aimed at slowing Indonesia’s property growth for 2014, both Moody’s Investors Service and Fitch Ratings believe that the credit profiles of

Indonesian property developers will remain stable. Fitch says that Indonesian property developers (particularly residential property) will book lower presales in 2014. This will limit the start of new property projects as presales are a common source of funds for the construction. As such, those companies that can rely on recurring revenue will have more scope for investments and business expansion. Recurring revenue mostly constitutes income that is generated through the renting out of property, such as shopping malls, hospitals, and apartments. So far, most opinions from major local banks, national developers and various consultants tend to play down any negative growth issues, while the country’s regulators, such as Bank Indonesia, and related government ministries, continue to take a cautionary approach while they monitor and assess the property sector. The overall macro conditions are more robust and relatively sheltered from any potential downturn. The more widelyaccepted view is that the property market in Indonesia will continue its positive trend, albeit slower, riding on the wave of economic growth, which is projected to remain strong over the short to medium term. On this basis, it is expected that prices will continue to move up alongside demand expansion and higher buyer purchasing power. The market is not heading for a bubble, but likely to remain on a sustainable growth path. There is one other factor that continues to play a role in the growth of Indonesia’s property market, which has been a contentious issue for both Indonesians and foreigners; foreign ownership. With land titles (hak milik) only legally available to Indonesian citizens, foreign land ownership — being opposed within the constitution — is a contentious issue for both the government and international investors. A proposed change in the current laws on foreign property ownership, which would extend a leasehold period to a full 70 years as opposed to the current 25 years followed by subsequent renewals, was expected at the end of 2010, but this change is yet to be passed by the government. This change has encountered widespread opposition, particularly in Bali. While the passing of this law would be a welcome change, investors — and expats wishing to call Indonesia home — will still find it coming up short when compared with the regulations in other countries in the region such as Malaysia and Singapore.

ADVERTORIAL

GRADUATION OF AIS 2013 Time has gone by very quickly at the Australian International School (AIS), Indonesia, particularly for the Year 6 and Year 12 students who have completed their final weeks of schooling. Graduation Ceremonies were held to formally recognize the completion of their Education. It was an exciting time for them and wonderful celebrations were held on our four campuses in Kemang, Pejaten, Bali and Balikpapan. There were 53 students from Year 6 and 31 students from Year 12 who graduated. The majority of the Year 6 graduates will continue on to the Secondary Programs at the AIS Campuses, while, some will move to another country as they follow their parentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work assignments. The Year 12 graduates will continue on to higher education. The results of their 2013 ATAR (Australian Tertiary Admissions Ranking), which is a percentile ranking score for university entrance, have shown an outstanding performance. Our top

academic achiever and Valedictorian for Year 2013, Muhammad Afiq bin Oslan has just been awarded the top ranking ATAR for Australian students and international students. We are incredibly proud as a school community of Afiqâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s success and the success of our other students which continues to validate AIS as a school of holistic international excellence for students of all academic abilities. Our previous Year 12 graduates have been accepted into universities in Indonesia and around the world as well as in the top 8 universities in Australia; Australian National University, Sydney University, University of Queensland, University of New South Wales, Adelaide University, Melbourne University, Monash University and Curtin University. We look forward to our present Year 12 graduates continuing the success of their alumnus. We wish all our graduates the very best for their future studies.

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SPORTS

indonesian rugby

Success Built on Hard Work

Stephen Barber is a Life Member of Indonesian Rugby having been one of the Founders of the Union and having spent the last ten years of life dedicating much of his time to the sport.

JAKSRUC tournament held at GJIS on the 18th January by Greta Corney

The Harimau in Singapore copyright Asian Rugby Football Union (ARFU)

Indonesian Rugby is preparing to launch itself into 2014 on the back of a monumental decision by the International Rugby Board (IRB) on November 20, 2013 to grant the Union Full Member alongside the giants of the game in New Zealand, Australia, England and other nations. Indonesian Rugby also gained much needed “National Status” in 2013, earning recognition from KONI on August 28. Together, these two achievements show just how far Rugby has come in Indonesia since the seven founders decided to get the ball rolling back in May 10, 2004. Indonesian Rugby is always trying to make a conscientious effort to contribute to the local community both on and off the playing field and 2013 was no different: • One of the biggest achievements of 2013 was the launching of regular Saturday morning Indonesian Women’s Rugby Training sessions, involving a group of young ladies from Mama Sayang’s Orphanage and the Banteng’s RC. These ladies have embraced the game of Rugby thanks to the coaching efforts of Stephen Barber, David Nye and Peter Klestov, plus fantastic support from the Jakarta International School (JIS) and Britmindo. The young ladies toured Bali in mid-October thanks to great support from Britcham, the Priscilla Hall Memorial Foundation (PHMF), Britmindo and ‘GR8 Mates’. • Indonesian Rugby also assisted the Britcham Give Kids a Sporting Chance Foundation for the third year running as part of the 2013 Jakarta Highland Gathering at Karawaci. During the day over 300 Indonesian children 20

indonesia expat issue 111

Girls rugby by Greta Corney

were exposed to a number of sports including Rugby. • The Indonesian Schools Rugby Tournament was played at the Senayan Sports Complex. Following this tournament, the first ever National Under 20s Harimau Muda Squad was selected to participate in the Asia Junior 7s U20s Tournament in September. The team was sponsored by HSBC, and despite not recording a win the players all came away having experienced their first international tournament and the honour of being young Indonesian ambassadors. • Indonesia was also represented on the international scene by the Indonesian National Men’s Team, The Rhinos, who participated in the 2013 HSBC Asian 5 Nations Division III Tournament in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. In their semi-final match against Guam, The Rhinos were outclassed 15-33, however the team was able to regroup well and recorded a handsome 37-13 win over China in the 3rd/4th place match. • Indonesia participated in the Singapore leg of the HSBC Asian 7s Series in early November. The Indonesian National Men’s Sevens Team, The Harimau, entered the tournament as underdogs and in their last match of the tournament they played the United Arab Emirates for 11th/12th Place. The Harimau bolted out of the blocks early, before running out worthy 27-7 winners to record their first ever international win. • Jakarta International School (JIS),

Sekolah Pelita Harapan (SPH), British International School (BIS) and Global Jaya International School (GJIS) hosted the four rounds of the 2013-14 Jakarta Schools U15s & U18s Rugby Competition (JAKSRUC). This tournament was first started by Indonesian Rugby in 2009 and it was great to see the New Zealand International School (NZIS) joining regulars including JIS, SPH, BIS, GJIS and Lycee Indonesia Francais (LIF) as participants. The introduction of Girls’ Rugby as part of the schedule made JAKSRUC a ‘true’ schools competition. • In late October, Indonesian Rugby hosted the HSBC Penguins International Rugby Club. They conducted an IRB Level 1 Coaches Course and it was great to see so many young Indonesian males and females participating in this course. The Penguins also visited a number of schools and the highlight of their trip was a visit to the Mama Sayang Orphanage, located south of Jakarta. • Indonesian Rugby assisted hosting the 2013 Britcham Sports Gala Night at The Grand Kemang Hotel, by inviting Guest Speaker, John Bentley (ex-England & Lions) and MC Justin Sampson. This dinner was a resounding success, raising much needed awareness and funds to be used for Rugby and sports development for young Indonesians. • The 2013 Indonesian Rugby Charity Lunch held at the Fez Dungeon. This event featured former Wallaby Ben Darwin and MC Justin Sampson. This lunch allowed the Union to promote

its annual nationwide successes, plus present awards to those who have assisted the Union:

 PRUI Life Member – Stephen Barber  Indonesian Rugby Hall of Fame – Brian Huntley

 2013 Coaches of the Year – Kyle Larson/ Chris Briggs

 2013 Referee of the Year – Ari Yudha Pramono

 2013 Spirit of Rugby ‘Volunteer’ Award – Vagi Vegaz Sarwom

 2013 Jamie Wellington Rugby Excellence Award – Nick Mesritz So to 2014, Indonesian Rugby plans to roll out a great new Rugby development initiative called Get Into Rugby (GIR) from the IRB. The goal is to promote GIR throughout all the Rugby-playing provinces of Indonesia. This worldwide program is designed to get young children and youths to “Try”, “Stay” and “Play” Rugby. For more information on GIR, Indonesian Rugby Development news, and information on how to become an Indonesian Rugby sponsor in 2014, please contact Peter Klestov at: PERSATUAN RUGBY UNION INDONESIA c/- Kinara Building Jl. Kemang Raya No.78B Jakarta 12730 Indonesia P. +62-21-719-4813 M. +62-813-8138-0114 E. peter.klestov@gmail.com For online information about Indonesian Rugby and a schedule of events in 2014 please visit: http://indonesiarugbyunion. pitchero.com

Big Phishing in a Big Pond As the world’s second biggest source of cyber attacks, Indonesia is prone to phishing, which occurs when a scammer or hacker lures an internet user into revealing personal details, such as a username and password, via a fake log-in webpage or email form. Clicking on an interesting link (often something purporting to be humorous or sexy) on a hijacked Facebook feed or an email may redirect you to an authentic looking log-in page that asks you to confirm your username and password. Should you do so, scammers can then use your account, clone it and attempt to get money from your friends. They may also seek access to your banking details. Indonesia’s Communications and Information Ministry doesn’t provide much data on phishing attacks – instead it seems to be preoccupied with preventing people from accessing pornography. A search of the ministry’s website for “phishing” yields a single result – an old third-party article about the rise of cyber banking scams. The ministry promotes an Internet Health and Safety campaign called INSAN (Internet Sehat dan Aman). US-based internet monitoring company Akamai Technologies last year reported that

Kenneth Yeung is a Jakarta-based editor

Indonesia had overtaken China as the top source of cyber attack traffic. Indonesia in previous years accounted for fewer than 2% of the world’s attacks, but in the secondquarter of 2013 that figure leapt to 38%. This could just mean that cyber criminals in other countries have compromised more unsecure computers in Indonesia and are using them to launch malicious manoeuvres. Most recently, Akamai on January 28 reported that in the third-quarter of 2013, Indonesia dropped to second place with 20% of observed attacks. More than half of all recorded attacks generated from China and Indonesia. Indonesian hackers recently demonstrated their prowess with attacks on Australian websites, amid a wave of nationalist fervour sparked by revelations that Australia had several years ago attempted to tap the telephones of President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono and his inner circle. There is little outrage when average Indonesians are victims of phishing. In the days before Facebook’s ‘Closed Group’ feature, many people communicated in networks via Yahoo! Groups, an online discussion board service, which has existed for over a decade.

A group of women in Jakarta several years ago formed a Yahoo! Group to discuss their shared hobby. The group was ‘closed’, meaning it had strictly limited membership, so the women thought they were safe from outsiders. Members described the group as a “third place”, outside of work and family, where they could support one another. Over the years, they built up absolute trust, but they did not know much about each other’s day-today activities, such as who was in or out of town, or job details and families. During one long weekend holiday, a senior member of the group posted a message that began: “Dear All, I got a promo ticket and I am now in Italy. Unfortunately my wallet, ticket, all my cards and passport were stolen, and I am now at the police station, and I need some money to survive until the issue will be resolved.” There was a detailed explanation of the theft, followed by: “Please if anybody can transfer this sum of money, 700 -1,000 Euro, in my account, please do so. I will pay you back when I am home in one week.” A bank account number was included at the end of the message.

The sender claimed to be unable to contact relatives for help because they were also on holiday. The message was so naturally written that other members thought it may be genuine. Some considered providing help, but the high amount of funds requested caused suspicion. “I immediately replied to that email, asking her contact me personally,” said one member. “And then I found her number and called her. She picked up the phone and said she will call back; her voice sounded very strange. I remember how anxious I felt waiting for her call. It turned out she sounded strange because she was speaking from the basement of a parking lot, in Jakarta!” The woman’s email account had been phished. Many of her friends, relatives and work clients had received the email begging for the transfer of funds. If you receive an online request for money from a friend or relative, contact them first via telephone to ascertain the message is genuine. And if your Facebook or email account has been phished, then immediately change your password and alert any relevant institutions that your information may have been stolen. issue 111 indonesia expat

WORTHY CAUSES

Aspirations of the children of Bantar Gebang

Nasrudin with some of the students of YDI

the school on a landfill

Yayasan Dinamika Indonesia BANTAR GEBANG words and photos by Angela Richardson

The province of DKI Jakarta (Daerah Khusus Ibukota, not including Bogor, Tangerang, Depok and Bekasi) has a population of over 9.6 million (2010), each individual of which produces waste. Shockingly for a city of its size, there is no solid waste management plan in place, and recycling is left in the hands of a few non-governmental organizations and the pemulung, who work hard to sort through millions of people’s mixed rubbish before it’s taken to a landfill. An estimated 6,000 tonnes of rubbish is produced a day in Jakarta, 2,000 of which is thought to end up in the rivers, causing flooding and diseases. Rubbish collected in the province of DKI Jakarta all ends up at the largest landfill of Indonesia - Bantar Gebang. This massive 111-hectare rubbish tip is more than meets the eye, as it homes 5,000 inhabitants who live and work here as scavengers, including a pre-school and a primary school, where the children of the scavengers come to get an education. The first thing you notice when getting close to Bantar Gebang is the smell. It is a stench like no other, and the closer you get to the mountain of rubbish, the stronger it stings your nostrils and the back of your throat. It is a smell I will never forget. Driving into the vicinity, you are met with a shanty town built right on top of and amongst the rubbish and flies number in the thousands. Arriving at the primary school on Bantar Gebang, Yayasan Dinamika Indonesia, we are greeted by children running around, playing and screaming on their morning break. It’s like arriving at any other school, except this school is surrounded by rubbish, and the odd pemulung rummages through trash left in the shrubs on the school grounds as the kids play. Here we meet Nasrudin, Head of YDI, who explains the story of his school to us, which has been in operation since 1996.

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“There are 362 children at this primary school and 52 at the pre-school down the road,” Nasrudin tells us. “We have an open door policy with flexible rules to try and keep children in class. We will even let them sleep if they need to.” Nasrudin has been at YDI since it opened and knows more about the children of Bantar Gebang than anyone else. After visiting the classrooms, it is interesting to see that these children are quite introvert, not like street children, who are oftentimes boisterous. The children of Bantar Gebang are well-behaved and many have dreams of becoming something other than a scavenger. Many of the children I spoke to wanted to be a teacher, a policeman or even a football player. The sad reality is that most end up working on the landfill or in factories nearby. “Once the children know how to read and write, they often want to leave and start earning money for themselves doing what their parents do,” Nasrudin explains. “90% of the crane drivers on the landfill are YDI alumni and we also have many grandchildren of alumni attending.” This truth becomes evident when looking at how the number of students goes down as the grade number goes up: Grade 1 (69 students), Grade 2 (79 students), Grade 3 (54 students), Grade 4 (59 students), Grade 5 (41 students) and Grade 6 (27 students). Pemulung who live and work on Bantar Gebang predominantly come from Indramayu in Cirebon, with a minority from Madura and Karawang. The pemulung mostly work directly for the pengepul, someone who acts as a middle man and buys the rubbish from them at a cheap price, selling onto their bosses, who then send the recyclable items on to recycling factories. There is a monopoly system at play here, whereby the pengepul give the pemulung loans in order to keep them under their thumbs, forever indebted to them. On this landfill, the pemulung work five days a week, wading through

mountains of mixed waste in search of recyclable items, with two days left to sort through what they’ve collected, earning between Rp.150,000 to Rp.200,000 a week. The children usually help with the cutting up of plastic and sorting of collected rubbish after school hours. “Many of the children have skin irritations, and they all have cacingan (worms),” Nasrudin tells me. Anemia is also another common illness these children face, although surprisingly, the number of dengue fever cases is very rare and there have been no reported cases of tuberculosis. Living on a landfill is extremely unsanitary and dangerous, and four pemulung lost their lives recently to a landslide of rubbish. When touring the landfill, I was saddened to see men, women and children working in such terrible conditions, completely oblivious to the foul smell or rotting garbage they have become accustomed to. “The children find it hard to make it into state schools after they leave us,” Nasrudin says. “There is a certain stigma which is attached to children of Bantar Gebang.” It is wonderful to hear from Nasrudin that a few of his students have gone on to working at big companies such as Panasonic after completing a university degree, thanks to Yayasan Dinamika Indonesia. Oman, one of the alumni of YDI, even came back after studying Mathematics at STKIP Kusumanegara, to teach the children at a place which gave him hope for the future. YDI now receives financial support from the government under Biaya Operasi Sekolah, which helps to pay for their operational costs, however they are currently looking for sponsors to help pay for teacher’s fees, as the funds they receive do not cover this. If you are interested to sponsor this extraordinary school, or volunteer your time to teach English or Mathematics to the children of the pemulung, please contact Nasrudin at +62 (0)8129848401.

Dua Tangan Cukup Positive actions from across the archipelago

Dua Tangan Cukup (Two Hands are Enough) is a movement started by Clean Up Jakarta Day, under Indonesia Expat, which encourages actions to clean up the environment, small or big, from people from all walks of life around Indonesia, which will in turn inspire change. We want to hear about what you’re doing to clean up your community and make a difference and we will publish your stories here, every issue. This could be a beach cleanup, an underwater cleanup, a recycling initiative you are putting together where you live, educating people how to separate waste or anything related to cleaning up your community. All you need are your hands and a bit of spare time to make a difference. Pak Alfredo (below) is a driver who lives in Ambon. He often takes customers to Liang Beach to show off the natural wonders surrounding his home town, but on this occasion, he was appalled to see rubbish destroying the white sandy beach and decided to do something about it. He asked some local friends to get involved and in the end gathered five sacks in the space of one hour, full of plastic cups, candy and food wrappers, straws, and plastic bags off the beach and to an appropriate rubbish tip. He was so moved by this action that he now writes to his local government, demanding strict littering fines for the people of Ambon. Be the change you want to see. What’s your Dua Tangan Cukup action? Send them to cleanupjktday@ indonesiaexpat.biz

* Answers in the next edition!

LIGHT ENTERTAINMENT

FOR THE MACET MIND

Worse than Hanky Panky BY EAMONN SADLER (WWW.EAMONNSADLER.COM)

In 2003 I was spending most of my time travelling, sorting out problems for a UK-based publishing company. In November of that year they sent me to the Hong Kong office to sort out some issues and I arrived to find the place in an absolute shambles. The office manager was a young and inexperienced idiot and his staff took full advantage of him every chance they got, but he was the son of one of the bosses, so I couldn’t fire him. To get rid of him for a while I asked him to take some time off because his “loyal” staff wouldn’t respect me or do what I told them as long as he was around. He saw my “problem”, graciously agreed to help me out and p***ed off to the pub.

depicted – I didn’t get past the first two. The scariest part was that they looked VERY real and I honestly felt like I had witnessed two hideous murders. I decided that there was only one thing I could do. I went to the Hong Kong Police. At the police station they took me very seriously and told me that they were at that time investigating several reports of domestic maids going missing. I started to get very nervous as they pieced together the possibility that somebody in our office was kidnapping, raping and killing maids while making “snuff ” movies for the enjoyment of fellow perverts. I told them that the women I saw being abused in the first two movies were not Asian, so they set about watching the other movies. Across the desk from me I watched the colour drain from two policemen’s faces as they reluctantly went through the movies one by one - and there were indeed some Asian victims.

In my experience when there is a situation like this it is not uncommon to find some financial irregularities as well, so on my first Sunday in the country I went into the office to do some digging around in the computers. In a previous life I learned some They asked me for the names of all the simple computer forensics techniques and I people who might have used the laptop and always carry the necessary equipment with told me that they would begin checking me when I go on trouble-shooting missions them out immediately. They like this. I went through told me I was in the clear all the computers in the “Jeez. Why because they could see from office, first checking through couldn’t he be a my passport that I had only the accounts for obvious anomalies and then checking normal pervert like been in Hong Kong for a few days, but I am sure they the deleted files in the recycle the rest checked me out too. I’d be bin, but I didn’t find anything of us?” surprised if they didn’t. incriminating (yes, people are often that stupid). Then I A few days later, after rumours about checked the email accounts and the browser “police” and “computers” spread around histories and recovered all possible deleted files for the previous month on each machine, the office, one of the writers suddenly stopped working for us. When the police but there was nothing unusual there either. tried to trace him they found the address I was about to give up and accept that our we had for him was false. Apparently our employees were lazy and incompetent but mentally challenged office manager had not dishonest, when I remembered that hired him after meeting him in a bar, had there were two company laptops which the never checked his details and had always freelance writers shared. I figured freelance paid him in cash. None of the people in the writers were unlikely to be involved in bar knew anything about where he’d gone, any financial hanky panky, but I knew any and when the police checked his name member of staff could borrow the laptops, so against immigration records, no trace was I fired them up and got stuck in. found. To my great relief it turned out that the “missing maids” had only gone home to I am very broad-minded, but what I found the Philippines without permission, but it’s among the deleted files on one of the pretty certain who was watching the snuff laptops made me feel dizzy and sick to my movies on the laptop. stomach. You’re probably thinking it was porn and I guess it was in the broadest When the dust settled I told the office sense of the word, but I never expected to manager what had happened and he said see anything like this. There were dozens the only clever thing I ever heard him of movies depicting women being raped say. “Jeez. Why couldn’t he be a normal and then killed in vicious ways. At least I pervert like the rest of us?” Indeed. assumed from the titles that’s what they all

Across

DOWN

1 Nazi-style discrimination (6)

1 Widow (6)

4 Reviewer (6)

2 Conspirator against Julius Caesar (7)

8 One who is always a failure (5)

3 Residue of cereal crop (5)

9 Little balls of soap and water (7)

5 Daphne du Maurier’s antiheroine (7)

10 Chat (7)

6 Flower from bulb (5)

11 Castrated bird (5)

7 Gambling house (6)

12 Piece of plastic with micro-processor (5,4)

9 Trivial matter (9)

17 Device linking computers (5)

13 It measures electric current (7)

19 Reading desk (7)

14 One who won’t accept novelty (7)

21 Container for coal (7)

15 Tickled (6)

22 Deep rift (5)

16 Living creature (6)

23 Senile person (6)

18 Uncertainty (5)

24 Destructive person (6)

20 Hot drink (5)

ANSWERS OF ISSUE 110 ACROSS — 1. Multilateral 9. Chill 10. Oregano 11. Oboe 12. Confetti 14. Poncho 15. Hot dog 18. Infinity 20. Oval 22. Halcyon 23. Atlas 24. Disqualified DOWN — Unicorn 3. Talk 4. Look on 5. Tree frog 6. React 7. Looking-glass 8. Accomplished 13. Thank you 16. Divulge 17. Atonal 19. Falls

spotted pic - send your funny pics to letters@indonesiaexpat.biz

Spotted by Chrysilla N. from Jakarta

To read more by Eamonn Sadler, go to www.eamonnsadler.com To find out more about live stand-up comedy in Indonesia please e-mail info@jakartacomedyclub.com text or call 0821 1194 3084 or register at www.jakartacomedyclub.com

WANT FREE TICKETS TO THE COMEDY CLUB? SMS YOUR NAMES FOR A CHANCE TO WIN 2 TICKETS TO JAKARTA OR BALI COMEDY CLUB! 0821 1194 3084

issue 111 indonesia expat

ANNOUNCEMENTS

Smooth as Silk... Excellence of Service Awards 2013 by Thai Airways JAKARTA & BALI — THAI Airways Indonesia, the premium national flag carrier with legendary service, invited all leading Indonesia travel and cargo agents and VIPs from Business partners for an appreciation dinner with exquisite foods and entertainment. The event included the Excellence of Services Platinum and

Gold Awards presentation to the top achievements in year 2013. The event was held at the stylish Tapping shoes, Potato Head Beach Club, Seminyak, Bali and Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Thamrin, Jakarta in early December 2013 respectively.

THAI a member of Star Alliance fly direct from Jakarta and Denpasar to Bangkok with a daily service to beyond over 70 destinations in five continents. Check out Thai Airways’ website for the latest promotional airfare and special offers at www.thaiairways.co.id

Life Transformation Classes Available at Mesa Stila with David G. Arenson ND CENTRAL JAVA — Until February 28th, 2014, you will be able to enjoy Life Transformation classes with David G. Arenson ND at Mesa Stila resort in Magelang, Central Java. David is a Naturopath, Life Transformation Coach and Master Practitioner. His Life Transformation sessions offer the opportunity for you to express and explore your personal challenges/goals in a safe and supportive environment. Together we

will work with the tools and higher wisdom offered by both western and eastern traditions to increase understanding and develop a practical approach to achieving positive results. Highly personalised – common themes include stress, anxiety, depression, healing emotional wounds, constructing a life plan. David has extensive experience in the holistic field since 2002, and weaves

together a personal program for each guest, providing them with the inspiration and tools to continue to reinforce the change in their everyday lives. Please contact Mesa Stila for further information. P: +62 (298) 596 333 E: info@stila.mesahotelsandresorts.com www.mesahotelsandresorts.com/mesastila

The St. Regis Bali Resort Recognized in 2014 TripAdvisor® Traveller's Choice Award ACROSS THE ARCHIPELAGO — Bali’s The St. Regis Bali Resort, has been recognized as one of the Top 25 Hotels in Indonesia and Top 25 Luxury Hotels in Indonesia in the recent TripAdvisor® 2014 Traveller’s Choice Awards. Since its opening in February 2009, the resort has made its mark in Bali and is renowned for its exclusive beachfront location, generosity of space in its 123 elegant suites and villas, and bespoke 24-hour Butler service.

The TripAdvisor® Travellers’ Choice Award are presented to qualifying accommodations, attractions and restaurants listed on the website that maintain a high overall user rating and a high volume of recent and quality reviews based on millions of valuable reviews and opinions from TripAdvisor® travellers. Currently operating in thirty countries with over 60 million unique monthly visitors and more than 75 million reviews, TripAdvisor® is the world’s largest travel site.

Singapore International School Students Help Flood Victims of Pejaten Timur JAKARTA — Concerned students and staff of Singapore International School, Jakarta gathered donations of blankets, carpets, cleaning equipment, books, stationary, medicine, food and water for the victims of flooding in Pejaten Timur, South Jakarta; an area located beside the Ciliwung River. 271 families were affected

by the heavy flooding in the area, among them 21 pregnant women and 15 senior citizens. Singapore International School hopes that their actions can inspire others to help as well, by donating much needed supplies to the poor families affected by the flooding.

Garuda Announces Embargo on Shark Fins ACROSS THE ARCHIPELAGO — Garuda Indonesia placed an embargo on the shipment of shark fins and other shark related products starting from October 2013. "This new policy is in accordance with our commitment to support #SOSharks campaign initiated by World Wide Fund (WWF) Indonesia and contributes to lessen the trading of shark fins in global market," said Garuda Indonesia president director Emirsyah Satar in a press release on Nov. 20. 24

indonesia expat issue 111

Emirsyah has also been selected as one of #SOSharks' ambassadors, joining other public figures such as Jakarta Deputy Governor Basuki Tjahja Purnama. More than 1.1 million tons of shark related products are being traded in the world every year although the species is endangered. According to a press release from WWFIndonesia, Indonesia is one of the top twenty biggest shark catchers in the world and Garuda Indonesia had facilitated

shipments of up to 36 tons of shark fins every year. Other carriers such as Air New Zealand, Cathay Pacific, Emirates Airlines, Fiji Airways and Korean Air have already banned all shipments of shark related products using their cargo services. Garuda Indonesia has also practised embargoes on live mammals and domestic pets such as dolphins, tigers, dogs and cats as checked baggage, except for service animals, since 2012.

issue 111 indonesia expat

EVENTS

Jakarta CELEBRATION

Il Divo in Concert

IFEX (Indonesia International Furniture Expo) 11-14 March 2014 Rattan, fabric, metal and other furniture materials will be celebrated at this year’s IFEX (Indonesia International Furniture Expo) show. Discover new designs and architecture of furniture at the expo and get a chance to meet the industry’s big names while getting familiar with the 2014 international furniture trends. The exhibition is for trade visitors but open to the public on the last day, 14 March. IFEX will be held at two venues; JIEXPO (Jl. Haji Benyamin Sueb, Jakarta) and Jakarta Convention Center on Jl. Jend. Gatot Subroto. Visit www.ifexindonesia.com for more information. MUSIC

Heart Records: A Theatrical Concert

21 March 2014 The world famous quartet is making a return trip to Jakarta, this time singing songs from renowned musicals. The concert will take place at the Ritz Carlton Pacific Place Hotel ballroom and will commence at 8pm. The event is part of their tour to promote the new album ‘A Musical Affair’. For tickets and more information, visit www.inspirogroup.co.id, www. indotix.com or call 08111-550 433

Sudir man Centra l Business District (SCBD), on March 15. The show will start at 7 pm and end at midnight. Gugun Blues Shelter, Barr y Likumahuwa Project, Glenn Fredly, and Sandy Sandoro w ill perform; more to be confirmed. General admission ticket is Rp.150,000 (including one free drink) and VIP ticket is Rp.500,000 (including free f low of beer). Ticket sales will begin on February 15. 100% of the proceeds raised on the night will go toward supporting the personal and educational development of more than 240 underprivileged children in the Red Nose centres in Cilincing, North Jakarta, and Bintaro Lama, South Jakarta.

Bali Photography Tour

Have a Heart Charity shopping

20th Mega Bazaar Consumer Show 5-9 March 2014 Jakarta Convention Center will be filled with businesses and consumers of the technology industry. The 20th Mega Bazaar Consumer show will showcase new gadgets, computers and other entertainment goods with deals and special prices to complete the experience. This is a multiple-city event; it will be present in Surabaya (at Grand City Convex), Makassar (at Celebes Convention Center) and Jakarta (Jakarta Convention Center) on 5-9 March 2014, Semarang (at Java Mall) on 7-11 March, Yogyakarta (at Jogja Expo Center) on 8-12 March, and Bandung (at Graha Manggala Siliwangi) on 26-30 March. Contact @DyandraPromo on Twitter for more detail.

Espiga Valentine’s Day Dinner

charity

bali

14 February 2014 Experience a romantic dinner with Espiga on Valentine’s Day. Espiga has prepared a prix-fix menu for Rp.350,000++ for a three course meal. The dinner features a large selection, such as chicken liver & port parfait or a scallop ceviche for starter, seabass fillet or wagyu beef for main course and brioche pain perdu or a dark rich chocolate cake for dessert, among other choices. Call (021) 2986-8866 for reservations. Espiga is located in The CEO building, Jl. TB Simatupang Kav. 18C, Cilandak, South Jakarta.

Jan Peter van Opheusden Art Exhibition

Red Nose in Concert 15 March 2014 Following the successful concert in November last year, the Red Nose in Concert will be back in March! This time, it will be held at The Foundry 8, in the

25 January - 23 February 2014 Jan Peter van Opheusden, a renowned Dutch artist, is holding a solo exhibition at Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA). This month-long exhibition is entitled ‘Banten’, featuring vibrant colours by the famous colourist. Jan Peter’s style has been said to depict a celebration of life. This is a daily ex hibition until Sunday, 23

improve your skills. Visit www. davidmetcalfphotography.com for more information.

charity

valentine's special

art 14-16 February 2014 The Jakarta Broadway Team proudly presents Heart Records: A Theatrical Concert. Set to take place in Graha Bhakti Budaya on 14-16 February 2014. Friday and Saturday shows at 8pm and the Sunday show starts at 7pm. This 90-minute musical is packed with well-known songs, sung and choreographed into one love story in a Broadway musical. This play features six singers, nine musicians and 16 dancers. Tickets can be purchased by contacting 0877 7567-8195 or heartrecords2014@ gmail.com. Graha Bhakti Budaya is located in Taman Ismail Marzuki (TIM), Jl. Cikini Raya No. 23, Menteng, Central Jakarta and can be contacted on (021) 319-37325.

February 2014. The Agung Rai Museum of Art is located on Jalan Raya Pengosekan, Ubud, Bali and can be contacted on (0361) 975-742 or by e-mailing info@ armabali.com. www.armabali.com

22 February 2014 The Rotary Club Bali Seminyak, in collaboration with the Smile Foundation of Bali, is hosting a fundraising dinner at Cocoon Restaurant & Beach Club. It w ill be a n evening of g reat food, raff le prizes, music and entertainment. The entry fee is Rp.850,000/person which will be donated to the Smile Foundation of Bali, an organization helping children with cleft palates and craniofacial disabilities. The reception is at 6.30pm, followed by the dinner at 8pm. The dress code is semi formal. Call John on +62 (0) 821 463-23517 or e-mail haveaheartnsmile@gmail.com for more information on the event. Cocoon is located on Jl. Double Six, Seminyak.

12-19 June 2014 Photographers Mike Langford (New Zealand’s Travel Photographer of the Year 2012) and wife Jackie Ranken (Professional Photographer of the Year 2012) have prepared an itinerary to experience Bali in all its glory through the lens of a camera. Participants have a rare opportunity to have one-on-one sessions with Mike and Jackie as well as workshop tips. The workshop is set to take place in June as there are multiple vibrant and colourful festival going on around that time of year. One of the highlights of the tour will be photographing Mount Agung. Participants will be guided through the skills of landscape shooting and a unique skill called ‘temple painting’. This workshop only has 8 participants slots. E-mail davidmetcalf3@mac.com to reserve a spot.

bandung MUSIC

indonesia expat issue 111

bandar Lampung CONFERENCE

International Congress of Linguistic Society of Indonesia 19-22 February 2014 The International Congress of Linguistic Society of Indonesia is presented by The American Institute for Indonesian Studies and MLI (Masyarakat Linguistik Indonesia). Held at the Sheraton Hotel in Bandar Lampung, this conference will be in both Indonesian and English; with experts from Finland, Indonesia, the US and other countries set to be speakers and present their research findings. Send an e-mail to kimli2014@gmail.com for details on the event. Sheraton Hotel Bandar Lampung is located on Jalan Wolter Monginsidi No. 175, Bandar Lampung, Indonesia. www.kimli.org

Kalimantan

photography photography

Padjajaran Music Festival & Culture

David Metcalf Bali-Flores Photography Tour 13-22 April 2014 Join Dayak Dave Metcalf and Richard Weinstein from Sidney on a unique cultural photography t ou r. T he s e e x p e r ie nc e d photographers w ill take you to Bali and Flores – some of the most beautiful islands in Indonesia – and guide you to ex per iencing and captur ing its magic; the landscape, the temples, the cultural celebrations and ceremonies. Not only that, participants have the chance to experience a very unique cultural ceremony in East Flores as the indigenous culture gather for a yearly ancient tradition at Easter. Dave and Richard will guide you through the challenges of t r av e l pho t o g r a phy a nd

22 February 2014 Padjajaran University is celebrating music and culture by throwing a festival to be held at Padjajaran University’s campus on Jalan Dipatiukur, Bandung. Many Indonesian musicians are set to perform, such as Naif, Glenn Fredly, Afgan and more. Visit the event’s Facebook page (Pasific Feb Unpad) or www.pasificfebunpad.com for more information on the event CONFERENCE

International Research Conference on Quality, Innovation and Knowledge Management 19-21 February 2014 A conference focused on academics and innovation, the International Research Conference on Quality,

If you want your event to be posted here, please contact (+62) 0 21 7179 4550 or e-mail: events@indonesiaexpat.biz

Innovation a nd K nowledge Management has chosen Indonesia to be this year’s host. This conference brings together the business, government and other sectors to present findings in the business and commerce world and discuss further development techniques. This year’s theme is ‘Sustainable Research and Innovation’. The conference will be held in Trans Hotel & Convention Centre, Jl. Gatot Subroto 289, Bandung. E-mail info@qik2014. org for details or call (022) 250-3567 ext. 117. www.qik2014.org

Borneo Photography Tour 2014 26 May – 3 June 2014 Join experienced photographers Dayak Dave Metcalf and Mark R ay ner in an ex pedition to photograph the wild Borneo jungles. This is a photography tour for those who would like to witness and capture the breathtaking beauty of Central Kalimantan, which has a vibrant wildlife. The tour will also include the opportunity to capture the Dayak culture and tradition while exploring remote villages. Dave and Mark have a wealth of experience in photography tours that they could share with you. Visit www.davidmetcalfphotography. com for more details and to reserve a space on the tour.

PREVENTING FLOODS

participatory flood risk management

Hans Rooseboom is a long term resident of Jakarta. He has visited nearly all of Indonesia's provinces and worked for many years in Ambon, Aceh, Manado and a number of smaller and larger towns on Java. He now enjoys a leisurely life, playing tennis most mornings and writing his blogs and other articles.

What The Common Man in the Street Can Do It wasn't unexpected although it has happened many times before. But still, when confronted with the swirling mass of brown water on the street that only the other day was used by cars, buses, ojek and pedestrians, one can only be amazed, and at the same time rather irritated. The top eastwest section of Kemang Raya was totally flooded, nearly one metre deep, and this had created the worst traffic gridlock at the Kemang-Antasari junction.

instructions, they enthusiastically undertook the tasks of surveying the area's drains, flood prone areas, and ways garbage and other waste was disposed.

Tomang Canal Area

The information collected was then discussed and mapped and discussed again, and finally a programme was drawn up on what preventative action could be undertaken by the population. The drains were ranked according to who would be responsible for their maintenance; community or government. The community would take care of the drains that could be cleaned by hand - the minor ones - and the government would maintain those where equipment was needed.

We have all heard it before. What factors contribute to the floods and how difficult flood prevention is without huge, complex and multidimensional infrastructural intervention; banjir (flood) canals, intensive dredging of the main rivers, a car-traffic tunnel that, when needed, can be turned into a floodwater catchment tube, and many more. But let's face it, these are all traditional reactive rather than proactive activities.

The way waste and garbage from households, shops and small scale industries is disposed was also assessed. The finding here was that people were very much willing to dispose of garbage in an environmentally friendly way. However, garbage collection, as organised by the municipality, was irregular and insufficient.

In a paper of 22 January 2013, Jan T.L. Yap, Lead Capacity Building Advisor, World Bank Jakarta Office, wrote: Minor drain to be maintained by the community

Major drain to be maintained by the government

No wonder then that much of the waste ends up in the drains and rivers.

Flood disasters are now increasingly being seen as the outcome of cumulative risk processes rooted in poor land-use practices, ill-conceived development projects, lack of rules and guidelines, absence or inconsistent law enforcement, etc...The populations should be made aware that it is impossible to protect them against the risk of flood. Make them understand the meaning of risk, that the risk of flood is real and it is always there to strike at any time.

And even if individuals have a certain reluctance to dispose of their garbage this way, the large amount of waste already floating in the river is basically a silent approval to copy everybody else's behaviour. "If they do it, why shouldn't I!"

Petogogan, just a few centimetres

After the disastrous floods of 2007, exactly that had already been attempted during the second half of that year, with a project aiming to strengthen the communities' proactive involvement in flood prevention and mitigation. Two of Jakarta's neighbourhoods, the kelurahan of Petogogan and Tomang, were selected to try out this new approach and the population was informed in depth about the objectives of the project and asked to contribute their time and efforts. The response in Petogogan, located in the floodplain of the Krukut River, was exceptionally good. The area floods at least once a year up to a few centimetres; in 2007, however, the floods had reached a height of 2 metres. Tomang, located partly on the bank of the West Banjir Canal and partly on higher ground, was as a whole less interested, probably because the families on higher ground did not feel the need to participate. The photographs below are meant to give a general idea about the two neighbourhoods; examples of the participatory activities are, however, for Petogogan only. In Petogogan the people formed committees for each sub-unit (RW) of the neighbourhood. After some detailed

Flooding in Kemang in January 2014

Mapping the survey findings

And that seems to be the real problem. The "Power of One" gets swamped in this case, literally. Somehow a threshold volume of correct waste disposal upholders needs to be formed, and not only in one stretch of a river, but along its whole run. At the same time, of course, the basic infrastructural facilities and services need to be put into place, such as garbage collection points (that are frequently emptied) and an effective O&M for the major drains. It can be concluded that in Petogogan and Tomang the enthusiasm of the communities to do something was very soon extinguished as the expected follow-up from the municipalities never materialised. The main drains remained clogged, or after having been serviced once were taken off the activities roster. It would be highly advisable if the authorities were to try again, and again and again, because several studies have shown that proper drainage of the Jakarta waterways would reduce flooding by up to 60%. The problem is enormous, but not unsolvable. What has become clear is that, if properly approached and supported, people are willing to contribute their share in flood prevention.

issue 111 indonesia expat

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Indonesia Expat is looking for local distributors / sales agents for the following areas: Surabaya - Medan - Balikpapan - Makassar - Lombok. Attractive benefits on offer. For more information please e-mail info@ indonesiaexpat.biz Bahasa teacher wanted. I am looking for a Bahasa teacher for lessons two to three days per week. My schedule with my work is on call so I would need someone flexible that I could call in the morning for a lesson later that day. We live in Alam Sutera, Serpong. Thank you, Mark Morgan markmorganasia@ me.com Group of Bars & restaurants is looking for a Web Support Staff who edits, maintains and updates current web pages and has the ability to develop, design, produce and code new web pages as well as produce a weekly online newsletter and maintaining social media. Male / Female, 20 - 30 years old. Please send CV to Jasper Bouman jasper@bugilsgroup.com Part-time driver needed. We're looking for a part time nonsmoking driver. mataramster@ gmail.com 081584024248 (better sms) Looking for IB SL Biology tutor Pondok Indah area. If you are a tutor or know of a tutor any help would be appreciated please SMS 0821 2098 6760. I am looking for a Dutch teacher to give private lessons in English to prepare for the Dutch Civic Intergrartion Examination for my Dutch Naturalization. If you are interested please contact +628119104022 or +628119104715

This Saturday art class provides a safe and fun environment for your child to imagine and create. We seek to inspire children into the world of art from a young age! Classes are designed for children from ages 9 to 13! For more information please visit our website:www. michelleworthartstudio.com or drop us an email michelle.worth. art.studio@gmail.com I highly recommend Pak Chairuman to anyone who would like to learn Bahasa Indonesia. His technical knowledge of both the English and Indonesian languages is of a very high standard, but more than this he is also a very good educator. He is able to explain the concepts behind his lesson in a very clear and understandable way. Pak Chairuman is very reliable, and does not skip lessons unexpectedly. He also has a very soft and gentle nature, making it a pleasurable experience to learn from him. For all of these reasons I highly recommend Pak Chairuman, especially to people who may be a little intimidated by the thought of learning a new and strange language - Recommendation by Melanie Thompson. If you are interested to have a Bahasa Indonesia lesson, please call Pak Chairuman 08121037466. Hello, I'm Herry a professional airport handling at Soekarno Hatta Intl airport. If you need assistance like Fast Track Immigration, Check in, Transit etc for arrival & departure, please contact me at +6287808522300 / +6281317927009 / BB pin 2A3A60B2. Thank you for your attention. Best Regards. Learn French the easy way - with a native speaker. Private lessons, tutorial & remedial, For people of all ages. Modem teaching methods from an experienced, dedicated instructor. Available at

Personal Trainer. I am certified with 7 years experience including certification through Fitness First. I now work with expats in the Kemang/Cilandak/ Pondok Indah areas. Let me help you achieve your fitness goal this year. Contact me directly at 081905552337 OTHERS Antique / Others. Old teak coffee table 80x185cm, old Europeandesign mirror 65x120cm & chandelier suitable for café, club or resto. For more info, call Mariana 0817811907. KIMBALL Upright Piano For Sale. Have An Upright Piano (Kimball) with Bench for Salein good condition! tuned and plays very good. Price $750 USD. Picture will be sent upon request. Plan for self move Piano location is Pondok Indah. Contact: kim.ksbj@yahoo.com CANON 60D FOR SALE I would like to sell my loyal camera CANON 60D with some extras into good hands. Here’s what’s in the package: 1) Camera CANON 60D in great condition, 2 years old; 2) Lens CANON ultrasonic EFS 17-85mm with image stabilizer, diameter 67m, well used, but in a great condition, 2 years old, just cleaned at JPC photography; 3) B+W and UV protective filter for the lens , diameter 67mm, made in Germany 4) HOYA CIR – polarizing filter for the lens, diameter 67mm, made in Japan 5) 2 original batteries for the camera ( 1 extra) + original shoulder strap + all cables (never used) + instruction booklet and CDs. All sold in package for 750 $ or equivalent in IDR (rate of the day). If interested please contact Lana on 08118403306 (SMS, WhatsAPP, Viber) or by e-mail svetlana@ thelittlerebel.com • Vintage Art Deco kid’s rattan chair- small and sweet: 250,000 • AceHardware blue ‘suedette’ double sofa bed. Chrome feet; good condition. Costs 3.5 million new, will accept 900,000. Perfect as a spare bed or massage table! • Vintage oval dining room table, wood with matching six chairs (two are carver

chairs with arms). • Seat covers in 1) dark red 2) pink. 2 million ono. • IKEA plastic kid’s chair: 1 x red; 1 x blue 100,000 each • White painted wood kids’ table plus two cute chairs 250,000 • Leap Pad (pink bag) lots of books, excellent condition just 100,000 (I have two to sell) • ELC percussion set 100,000 • ELC red easel – blackboard/ whiteboard (costs 750,000 new) accept 250,000 • Barbie princess dress; Jasmine dress 50,000 each (immaculate condition) • Collector’s item: Angelina Ballerina – 4 dressup mice and lots of outfits: 250,000 • Lots of kids’ books and DVDs (20,000 each) and other toys all in excellent condition: doctor’s set; finger puppets (various prices). Please email me for photographs: joeclarkey1@gmail.com • For sale kid's bike (3-4 yrs) Rp.450,000 • No-pedal balance kid's bike Rp.250,000 • Charcoal bbq brand soleil in very good condition Rp.1,000,000 • 2 Sun beds with covers Rp.1.000,000. Available now. We are living in cipete jakarta selatan. Please call or sms at 0811 158 43 08 For sale Dining table (1.6 x 1.0) with top carving under glass and 6 matching chairs with cushions. Solid wood, dark stain. Rp 5 million. Sms or email for pictures 08151-380-4371 fred. holloway3@gmail.com

For sale fitness equiptment.. 1 Prosport treadmill, 1 static cycle - kettler , 1 step treadmill - kettler .. In good condition.. All 3 for rp.20.000.000 (Nego).. Email pulislina2012@gmail.Com. Or text/sms 0811131742 I have a Janome electric sewing machine for sale. It had only been used twice when I brought it off this site 18 months ago and I have rarely used it (big plans but no time). Has a huge variety of stitches, can do buttonhole and sews like a dream. My reason for selling is that I brought my bigger old Janome back from home in January. Selling for USD400. For pictures or further details.email me at 14poppy@gmail.com For sale ipad Mini 16 GB WIFI - White colour. Bought in June 2013 in Europe, like new. Still under international guarantee. In original box with charger. 100% genuine. Pink IPAD Mini leather protection case for free.

For sale because of duplication use. Pick up from Cilandak. Price: Rp.4.000.000. SMS or TEL 082111444510. email: tothlambot. family@gmail.com • For sale 32" Samsung TV (4.0 Juta Rupiah) • ZepplinMini for Itouch / Ipad (2.4 Juta Rupiah) • 55" Samsung TV (7.2 Juta Rupiah) • Samsung Home Theater System - includes 4 speakers and subwoofer (6.0 Juta Rupiah). View photos at:http://www.flickr.com/ photos/76250607@N03/sets. Contact Danny for pickup details - danetduenas@yahoo.com Jakarta flea market & bazaar is back! It will be held at March 27-28, location is at Blok S Kebayoran Baru. I will be selling second hand stuff, clothes, shoes, books anything that still worth min 20.000 - 75.000,- the selling profit will goes for Charity on The Dreamdelion Program http:// www.dreamdelion.com If there is anyone who are interest to share the booth or want to pass over some stuff for charity, I'm available to make arrangement for pick up around South Jakarta area. Feel free to contact me jjanuarty@ gmail.com Thank you. ~Jessica

homes are also full ! PLEASE consider adopting a dog from JAAN or fostering so that we can help some of the many emergency cases brought to our attention daily ! Check out our website at www. jakartaaniamalaid.comor sms 0811135309 for more information. personals Looking for a fun expat to hang out with. Male/female, preferably 30+, easy going, willing to be a travel companion to neighbouring countries, gives good massages. I enjoy collecting stamps and raggedy dolls, and love to talk about politics. I am good at math, and would like to have a friend to check my Sudoku answers. E-mail stacybrown0301@gmail.com. I’m a 28-year-old attractive woman looking for a 30+ male companion. I like coffee, watching movies and travelling. I’m looking for a man who is attractive, smells good, a coffee lover as well, outgoing and owns a car. If you fit these criteria, you’re allowed to e-mail me at betty_b00ps@ yahoo.com. Must provide a photo or I will not respond.

BALI PROPERTY

For sale 1940 German Barware Stein Village Pub. Says in German, "Guter Trunk Und Witz Sind Bei Vielen Dingen Nutz." (A stiff drink and a good joke cures all ills). Contact (021) 719 0087 for more information

For sale Chinese antique scroll painting in long (340 cm) fabric / silk roll from 17th century. Call (021) 719 0087 for more information pets Jakarta Animal Aid Network (JAAN) gets many calls everyday about dogs that are thrown like trash onto the toll roads or left chained up in yards after people move away but we can’t help them ! We currently have over 30 dogs awaiting adoption that are healthy, sterilized and vaccinated. Our center is full and our foster

Zen Villa 2 bdrms 2 ensuites plunge pool bale bengong air cond ceiling fans fully furnished 2 TV's Printer/copier/scanner WiFi parking 24/7 security. Available now US $20000 pa. Apply to allan.liene@gmail.com Bali condo for sale. 3 double bedrooms/3 bathrooms/private pool and walled garden. In the Novotel Nusa Dua Hotel and Residences. Fully furnished and serviced by the Novotel. Private residence but with the ability to rent out through Novotel when not in use. Enjoy all of the 5 star facilities of the hotel at a discounted price. Please contact fraser@truemail. co.th or +66-81-6193978 Now available! Canggu Babakan - Brand new 2 storey colonial style villa for yearly rent. 3 bedrooms with ensuite bathrooms,fully furnished, eguipped kitchen,modern aminities,pool,garden,amazing ricefield view,quiet,last villa in lane,5,5 are,AC,TV room,car park. 25 Minutes to Seminyak. Price EUR 22.000 yearly. Con-

tact cindyogier@outlook.com Guesthouse for sale in north Bali. Eight rooms, pool, restaurant and 2 bedroom house. Rice field views, close to beach. For more details: 0362-343-5729. Price: $700,000. contact@mumbul.net

conferences/parties/ weddings. Please get in touch with Uttam-08119937374 Trusted Daily Private Driver, Experienced, Honest, well, nice and neat appearance, can driving automatic cars. Pls contact/sms 085714221679, 081298634118. Budi Looking for Work I looking for weekend job as maid or nanny. I am female, fluent in english, has experienced as part time nanny in California, USA. Pls contact Icha : 0856 9550 4129

Discover Villa Gamrang. Experience our hospitality and stay in your own beach house. Villa Gamrang (Cisolok, 4 hours ‘drive from Jakarta and 50 minutes from Sawarna beach ) is designed to offer guests a beautiful nature, complete privacy and luxury. Recently listed (Jan 9, 2014) in the "Top 100 Holiday Beach Houses around the world", Guardian Newspaper. Stylish interior, outdoor terrace, sea view, spacious garden, swimming pool, 4 bedrooms and 3 bathrooms, complete kitchen, TV and Wi fi. Idyllic place for couples or families. Separate guesthouse with 1 bathroom and 2 bedrooms. Friendly staff and female cook. In house catering. Prices starting from IDR 1,499,000 per night for the main villa and IDR 800,000 for our Guesthouse, Villa Gamrang is highly appreciated by expats and Indonesian families. Reservations. www.villa-gamrang.nl or just mail us directly at villagamrang@gmail.com Over contract, direct owner, 18 years, Canggu, 5mn from Canggu club, new house, 2dr, 2 bth. Terraces on nice flowered garden, swimming pool, sunset view, car park, fully furnished or not. Email agungriceplage@gmail for appointment, please serious visitor. Due to family relocation, my fully renovated (Apr 2013) cafe/ restaurant is available for over contract on Jl. Benesari in Kuta. Superb location, approx. 750 metres from the beach. Fully equipped( refrigerator, cooking hob, utensils, furniture,etc.) Situated opposite the busiest hotel in the area. 081558696583 for more details and photos. JOBS Jobs Available Looking for a male Cook/Butler for our private Villa in Kuwum, Kerobokan, Bali for a family of three. Excellent working conditions. Contact tony_hermecz@yahoo. com or 0817 122755/0361 5540239 If you are looking for a great English speaking female emcee (compere) for any of your upcoming events/ corporate

Looking for job as Personal Assistant. Female with 17 years experience in multinational companies. Excellent English, Computer Literature, Admin skill. Dynamic, independent, dedicated, loyal, honest. Willing to travel. Interested in my CV, pls contact +62 81319191851, e-mail: evi.na70@gmail.com SERVICES Experienced, qualified and registered Australian Psychologist/ counsellor available for online counselling/therapy. Experience with child and adult expat issues, parenting, childhood concerns and learning disabilites. Visitwww. childpsychmum.com for more information OTHERS • Superb Burmese Teak Dining room table with 8 chairs, length 215 cm with sideboard in Superb teak also 215 cm long. Top condition in dark brown and fully lacquered finish giving excellent shine..... special item and rare $ 30,000 • Beautiful Swara wood deep brown centre. 2 round pieces 70 cm high width 50cm for fancy Stool or table base. 1 juta for both. Sanur 081999571288 • For Sale Rubber Boat with solid wooden floor, 4 m long very strong in top condition with just serviced 15hp Yamaha for reduced price rp22,5 juta. Sanur, Bali. 081999571288 • Indian 'glass' and other bangles, large selection. About 1000 items for rp500,000. Sanur 081999571288 • Diamonds with international certificates vvs 2 colour G from O.16 ct to O.40ct ring size at good prices, Lasting gift for the right lady, Sanur, Bali 081999571288 • Double wheel electric bench grinder USA rp350,000. Sanur. 081999571288 • Two large collapsible bbq chairs in black canvas and wooden table also collapsible. 3 Juta, sanur, bali, 081999571288 Fine old hard stone carvings large and medium size, well worth seeing. See in Ketewel few km north of Sanur. Pls call Retug 08123890847

DO YOU HAVE AN EXISTING PENSION IN THE UK? REGAIN CONTROL WITH A QROPS. KEY ADVANTAGES OF A QUALIFIED RECOGNISED OVERSEAS PENSION SCHEME: • FLEXIBLE BENEFITS – UP TO 30% OPTIONAL LUMP SUM AND/ OR INCOME FROM AGE 55 • SUCCESSION PLANNING – PENSION NOT SURRENDERED ON DEATH, BENEFITS PASS TO NOMINATED BENEFICIARIES • TAX EFFICIENCY – BENEFITS FALL OUTSIDE UK INCOME AND INHERITANCE TAX REGIMES • INVESTMENT CHOICE – NO OBLIGATION TO PURCHASE AN ANNUITY. CHOOSE FROM A WIDE RANGE OF ASSET CLASSES

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON QROPS PLEASE E-MAIL INFO@GMS-FINANCIAL.COM OR CALL (021) 520 3574

PT ARIPA MAKMUR PERSADA Graha Aktiva (American Express Building) 4 th Floor, Suite 405, Jl. H. R. Rasuna Said, Kuningan, Jakarta 12950 - Indonesia

Contact Indonesia Expat for competitive advertising rates and get noticed through our printed publication, e-newsletter and on our website. ads@indonesiaexpat.biz issue 111 indonesia expat

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

kutabaliapartments Y OU R HOLIDAY HOM E IN PAR ADIS E

Bahasa Indonesia class in January 2014 at the American Club. Private & In-company training also available for Bahasa/ English/ Mandarin. Qualified teacher & excellent material 021-68888246 or 0813-85590009 www.sibschool.com

INTERNATIONAL, DOMESTIC, LOCAL, OFFICE MOVING, STORAGE

Relax. We carry the load. Your peace of mind is our highest priority. One company Allied to Allied, over 800 locations worldwide. Your specialist in household goods moving services.

Call Francois 085 8838 98678 E-mail: francois@safeway.co.id or Lidya 0815 1333 1371 / 0812-8298-4242 E-mail: lidya.aritonang@safewayrelo.com Website: www.safewayrelo.com “RELOCATION MADE EASY’’

Jakarta: (021) 780 7851 Surabaya: (031) 749 8377 E-mail: info@alliedpickfords.co.id Web: www.alliedpickfords.co.id Bartele Gallery is the only dedicated shop in Indonesia which focuses on antique maps, prints, photographs, books and antiquities, ideal for a unique gift for that special someone. Come and browse through hundreds of old and original maps and prints from all across the globe!

Medical evacuation health and life insurance. Let us diagnose your needs. Contact: Paul Beale Mobile: +62 816 137 0663 Office: +62 21 522 0990 E-mail: paulbeale@gms-financial.com

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

indonesia expat issue 111

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

Call us +62 (0) 21 719 0087 or Email: bartele. santema@gmail.com and visit our Facebook facebook.com/bartelegallery for more information

INDONESIA EXPAT DIRECTORY

Holiday Rental in Bali, One-bedroom studio apartment in central location in Kuta / Tuban in a 4-star hotel. Bedroom with king size bed, Living room with Sofa bed (2 adult, 2 children) with fully equipped Kitchen,washing machine, free internet access. http://www. kutabaliapar tments.com, Contact: relax@ kutabaliapartments.com or 08161863140

Scan your books to read them on the go! PT. MegaEnviron is specialized in scanning books even without removing the book bindings (non-destructive scan). Other services include scanning documents, photographs,films, and slides, data entry, managing documents and database. Contact: Charoen Sanpawa Mobile: 0811-930-3744 Office: 021-632-6667. E-mail:charoen@megaenviron.com Website: www.MegaEnviron.com

TO BOOK SPACE ON THIS DIRECTORY PAGE CALL: 021 7179 4550

issue 111 indonesia expat

indonesia expat issue 111