CORSICA
Start your holiday here.
1. 3. About Corsica
Villa Ottobre Blu
9. 11. Getting About
Food & Wine
Contents
5. 7. Shopping & Markets
Beaches
Culture & Religion
L’Ile Rousse & Monticello
13. 15.
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ABOUT CORSICA
The earliest Corsican inhabitants date from around 3000BC; they left impressive menhirs or standing stones, carved with staring faces, which can still be seen at Filitosa. Centuries later in 540BC the Greeks colonised the island, they were succeeded by the Romans and it was then that the pattern of conflict and battle began with waves of invaders and raiders to the shores. The island suffered under harsh rule by successive Mediterranean
kingdoms, with Genoa gaining undisputed control from around 1500. Genoa sought French help when rebellion flared in 1729 and French troops pacified the island. The rebellion continued, however, and in 1755 the Corsican patriot Pascal Paoli was proclaimed General of the Corsican Nation. Before being forced out by the French in 1769, Paoli founded a university, and introduced a democratic constitution, with all men over 25 eligible to vote.
Paoli returned in 1790 and, with British backing, declared independence from France; Nelson lost his eye at the siege of Calvi and British forces captured a number of coastal towns. Independence was short-lived though; the British withdrew in 1796, Paoli departed to live in London and NapolĂŠon (who was born in Ajaccio) moved in his army. Corsica has been a department of France ever since. Compared
with
mainland
France, Corsica is very sparsely populated. None of the towns on the island is large; even the capital, Ajaccio, has a population of only 65,000. Corsican families retain close links to their land, which is the main reason why the island has escaped mass exploitation despite some recent building; many people will never sell their inheritance for development.
as “le continent,â€? and attempts by outsiders to make a fast buck out of the island are resented. Nationalist sentiment is rooted in a deep personal love for Corsica and is expressed, at different levels, through the teaching of Corsican language (Corsu) in schools, or through daubing FLNC (Front de la LibĂŠration Nationale de la Corse) slogans on public signs and buildings.
Corsicans are proud of their heritage. France is referred to
Many Corsicans of all ages speak Corsican, a language
whose history is obscure. Written, it looks rather like Italian, though it sounds different to the ear. Many names are Italian in form, with some pronounced the Italian way, some the French way. Corsican music is also resurgent; in recent years musicians have fused modern melodies with traditional vernacular songs or church chants to create an evocative, contemporary folk music.
Villa Ottobre Blu Villa Ottobre Blu is a detached family house set in a typical Mediterranean style garden complete with fan palms, hydrangeas, geraniums and olive trees, in a quiet backwater overlooking Calvi. Furnished in a traditional style, the house is spacious and well laid out with a modern kitchen, a large living room and each bedroom has en-suite facilities. Full-length French windows lead from both the kitchen and dining area to a sun-drenched terrace, where there is a large table and barbecue for al fresco dining. The views from here are some of the best, looking out over
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Calvi, the sea and towards the historic citadel. The pool area is accessible by steps leading down from the upper terrace, where a covered patio along with sunloungers and parasols provide the perfect spots if you wish to escape the sun for a time. Villa Ottobre Blu is an ideal choice for a small family or a couple wanting to share a relaxing holiday just a short drive to the amenities of Calvi. Main accommodation is on the first floor and is accessible via a flight of steps. For returning customers, this villa now only sleeps four.
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Shopping & Markets Most holidaymakers staying in our self-catering accommodation will receive a complimentary welcome pack on arrival but will want to visit the markets and shops to stock up on provisions. The larger towns have a choice of supermarkets as well as smaller specialist shops and markets. Local specialities are available in the épiceries, boulangeries and charcuteries and for the opportunity to find out more about the products visit the centres of production such as the mountain bergeries or vineyards. There are souvenir shops in the main resorts but if you are looking for something traditionally Corsican then we suggest you try handicraft shops or craftsmen’s workshops where efforts to revive the ancient arts of knife-making, pottery, stoneware, basket-weaving and glass-blowing are proving increasingly popular. Corsica offers a great variety of gastronomic delights including maquis-flavoured honey, a wide range of chestnut-based products, charcuterie and cheeses. The best place to sample and purchase local produce is at the lively colour-
ful markets in the main towns. There is a local market every morning in the covered market place (7am - 12pm) with stalls selling fish and seafood, local charcuterie, cheeses, wines, honey and locally grown fruit and vegetables. It’s well worth visiting the daily market on Place César-Campinchi which is one of the largest fresh produce markets on the island and although not cheap, the quality is second to none. Alongside bright freshly cut flowers and fruit and veg-
etables laid out under striped awnings are stalls selling delicacies such as fig jam, honey, wild boar sauces and ewe’s milk cheeses as well as Muscat wines and myrtle liqueurs.
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Beaches There are fine and coarse white and golden sand beaches, plus pebbly beaches made up of millions of sea-moulded stones of every colour; and because of the nature of the landscape many of Corsica’s beaches are hidden coves accessible only on foot or by boat - there’s certainly something magical about exploring the coastal paths and stumbling across a deserted cove washed by the warm deep blue of the Mediterranean.
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The beaches in Corsica are also incredibly clean and whether you’re in one of the secluded bays or on one of the busier town beaches you will always find a very good standard of cleanliness - both in terms of the beach itself and in the quality of the water. And because of the island’s position in the Med it gets some great winds and provides ideal conditions for a wide variety of water sports. There’s good surf here, perfect spots for windsurfing, not to mention the more esoteric pursuits such as wake boarding, kitesurfing and flysurfing.
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Getting About For the freedom to explore deep into the island’s dramatic scenery, the majority of visitors to Corsica choose to get around by car. The cost of a hire car is included in the majority of our villa-based holidays. More information about car hire. Main roads (there are no motorways) are generally very good. However, many
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country roads, especially mountain roads, are likely to be narrow and winding with very little room for manoeuvre. EU driving licences are valid in France and speed limits are 110kph (68mph) on two lane highways, 90kph (56mph) on other roads in non-urban areas and 60kph (37mph) in towns. The roads are generally fairly
slow with 50 kilometres taking at least an hour. Anyone who has seen the Rallye de Corse (the French stages of the WRC) will know the terrain already. Some areas are better than others for ease of local driving - please call us if this will affect your choice of area or the enjoyment of your holiday and we will be advise on the best area for you. During July and August the roads can be busy but at other times you won’t see as much traffic as you do in the UK. In common with other parts of the Mediterranean, you may find the driving of other road users a little unpredictable.
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Food Wine
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Corsicans take their food and drink very seriously and it is quite common for locals to take a leisurely three-course lunch accompanied by a few glasses of Corsican wine. This also means that standards in restaurants are generally high. The earthy style cooking takes its inspiration from the land, with sun-loving fruits and vegetables, cured meats and cheeses. As for the wine, well, you wont be disappointed.
On the coast you will find a good selection of fish and seafood, although due to reduced fish stocks in the Mediterranean, prices are now fairly high. Look out for red mullet (rouget), sea bream (loup de mer) and crayfish (langoustine). Oysters (huitres) are particularly recommended in the east and trout caught in the unpolluted rivers is a good alternative to meat inland.
Much of the mountain cooking is based around the locally produced dairy products and in particular the ewe’s cheese brocciu which is similar to goat’s cheese. Brousse is a cow’s milk alternative which is often available in the summer but is not nearly as good.
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Culture & Religion Corsicans are generally laidback and easy going, they appreciate friendliness and patience: be sure to greet people with “Monsieur”, “Madame” or “Mademoiselle” and try not to get irritated by any hold ups you may have such as roads being blocked by two drivers having a chat. Corsica is an island of culture with an abundance of music, art and cultural festivals which are organised by volunteers passionate about their chosen interest. Many of the island’s villages also hold a fete or festival to celebrate its local crafts and produce as well as religious or historical events. Corsica’s unique polyphonic music is haunting and has undergone a revival in recent years. Groups of three or four perform either a cappella or accompanied by percussion, flutes or stringed instruments.
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Each of the singers performs with a hand over one ear to prevent them from being distracted by the singer next to them as each voice has a distinct role: the first provides the melody, the second the bass and the third has greater freedom to improvise but is much higher pitched. The rich and chequered history of Corsica manifests itself around every corner with some fascinating architecture. Monuments, citadels, watchtowers and museums scattered all over the island bear witness to the ever-changing and often turbulent past of this multicultural island. Of particular note are the Baroque style churches in la Balagne region and the 60 Genoese watchtowers that punctuate the coastline. Corsica is predominantly Roman Catholic but like much of France, church attendance is fairly low with only about 8% attending regularly. Religious
events and festivals are taken seriously though, the highlight being the Holy Week processions which take place in towns such as Bonifacio, Sartène and Calvi in the week leading up to Easter. You will see carvings, symbols, paintings and emblems of the Virgin Mary all across the island and the hymn Dio vi salvi Regina is regarded by nationalists as the island’s anthem. In Cargèse, on the west coast, there is a small Orthodox community. Corsica’s religious beliefs coexist with traditional rituals, superstitions and magic. One unusual example is the belief that the first eggs laid on Ascension Day are magic. They are kept for the year and many say they never rot. Throughout the year they will be used to cure the ill, keep away lightening and the wives of sailors put them in the window during storms to protect their husbands.
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L’Ile Rousse & Monticello Named after the islets that blush a deep russet red in the sunset, L’lle Rousse is a laid back seaside town with a central square, lively cafés, restaurants and ice cream parlours. With one of the warmest microclimates in Corsica, thanks to the sheltering Balagne hills that surround the town, and three gently shelving large beaches in close proximity, L’Ile Rousse is an ideal spot for a family holiday.
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During the day, the town square fills up with pétanque players and pastis-sipping spectators, whilst the Greek style covered marketplace and little boutiques bustle with locals and tourists alike. Escape the hustle of town and relax on one of the three sandy beaches or follow the path up to l’Ile de la Pietra Genoese tower and lightlouse, for fabulous views across the town.
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