Dorian magazine 22

DORIAN MAGAZINE 23 WINTER 2013 DORIANMAGAZINE.COM SEK 69 NOK 79 DKK 79 ISSN 2000 - 1762

DORIAN MAGAZINE WINTER 2013

––––– The Rebirth of LONDON ––––– ––––– DAVID GANDY TODD SANFIELD ANDRÉ SARAIVA NIK THAKKAR JONNY WOO SISTERS ––––– &GIFT GUIDE DRUG DANGERS LUXURY FASHION BEAUTY CELEBRITY CULTURE TRAVEL SEX

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S H O P T H E C O L L E C T I O N AT J O H N H E N R I C . C O M

L U X U R Y F A S H I O N D E S I G N B E A U T Y C E L E B R I T Y C U LT U R E T R A V E L S E X – G AY L I F E I N S T Y L E –

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DORIAN

facts

DORIAN MAGAZINE BOX 7592 103 93 STOCKHOLM SWEDEN info@dorianmagazine.com www.dorianmagazine.com

EDITORIAL B E N J A M I N FA L K editor–in–chief | publisher benjamin@dorianmagazine.com J A K E RY D Q V I S T c r e at i v e d i r e c t o r | fas h i o n d i r e c t o r jake@dorianmagazine.com PROOFREADING b e v e r ly s a n f o r d S A L E S & A D V E RT I S I N G advertising@dorianmagazine.com A RT D I R E C T I O N jake rydqvist P U B L I C R E L AT I O N S info@dorianmagazine.com PUBLISHER jake & benjamin communication Box 7592, 103 93 Stockholm REPRO / PRINT ulma press, printed in estonia ISSN 2000-1762

photographer TONY VELOZ styling KENNARD JACKSON grooming LIZ WEGRZYN model CHRIS H

d o r i a n m a g a z i n e i s s c a n d i n a v i a’ s l e a d i n g , g a y g l o s s y, fa s h i o n m a g a z i n e , c r e at e d b y a n awa r d w i n n i n g editorial team that add bold european appeal to world class editorials and features, seducing cosmopolitan readers everywhere. d o r i a n f e at u r e s i n t e r n at i o n a l fa shion editorials shot by renowned photographers with top male models, opulent art and design, unique celebrity portraits, extreme beauty and exotic gay travel destinations. provoking articles complete the decadent dorian universe, presented in a uniq u e a n d v i s u a l ly s t u n n i n g p a c k a g e . dorian is published q u a r t e r ly. welcome to gay life in style! we accept unsolicited submissions subject to the following conditions: we review submissions b e tween magazine production so it takes time to respond. we review all submissions and if we elect to publish your work, you will be contacted before publication. we cannot promise to contact all declined applicants. p l e as e b e awa r e w e a r e n o t r e s p o n s i b l e for unsolicited materials sent to us.

HÖGINTENSIV INTERVALLTRÄNING PÅ 30 MINUTER LES MILLS GRIT™ SERIES är designade för att på ett effektivt sätt utmana dig fysikt genom högintensiv intervallträning. Serierna är 30 minuter långa och uppdelade i tre grenar med olika fokus. Välj GRIT™ PLYO när du vill öka din spänst, GRIT™ STRENGTH när du vill förbättra din styrka och GRIT™ CARDIO när du vill höja din förbränning. Ta din träning till nästa nivå med LES MILLS GRIT™.

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EXPLOSIV MUSIK FÖR ATT HÅLLA ENERGI OCH MOTIVATION PÅ TOPP.

VETENSKAPLIGT FASTSTÄLLT OCH BEVISAT ATT GE DIG SNABBA (OCH MÄRKBARA) RESULTAT.

lesmills.com/grit BODYATTACK®, BODYBALANCE®, BODYCOMBAT®, BODYJAM®, BODYPUMP®, BODYSTEP®, BODYVIVE®, RPM®, CXWORX®, SH’BAM®, GRIT™ STRENGTH, GRIT™ PLYO, GRIT™ CARDIO, BORN TO MOVE™.

DORIAN

editors’ letter

D

ear reader. Releasing the new web site and making the digital magazine available to all digital devices and platforms has been a virtual success story. Not only did the new web site generate 31 000 unique visitors in its first week alone, but the digital magazine has also been a big hit, not only in downloads, but in WHO’s downloading it. Who would have guessed that China would come in second after the US? And Russia before Germany (1. USA 2. China 3. UK 4. Russia 5. Germany)? Not us – we are gobsmacked and very happy that our magazine finds its way to countries who’s view on gay rights - leaves little to be desired! So keep on downloading us everywhere in the world!

Anglophiles, rejoice - swinging London is back. The jewel of the British crown is enjoying a spiritual rejuvenation. Meet male top model David Gandy who’s revolutionized the model industry with his buff body, Jonny Woo changed the alternative drag queen scene and turned it into art, and Nik Thakkar who’s whole life is art. We also feature one of London’s new hot spots; Kings Cross – with its majestic St Pancras Hotel.

Every generation of homosexuals has their drug of choice. Irina Aleksander, in the New York Times, this past June, quoted a source that said “Molly is the big thing now. Coke is sort of grimy and passé.

Weed smells too much and is also sort of low rent and junior high.” Our eminent journalist Daniel Scheffler digs deep.

Of course we have Swedes represented. Designer John Ekström, co founder of Swedish shirt and accessory brand John Henric, has found a way to offer high quality clothing to the masses, and new Swedish band, Sister – who’s debut single made Swedish top music journalists wet themselves – don’t do the same.

We wish you a Merry Christmas & A Happy New Year!

read our blogs on the NEW DORIANMAGAZINE.COM

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Kryssa i DeLuxe till Helsingfors Unna dig och din pojkvän välförtjänad lyx till havs.

Boka en härlig kryssning till trendiga Helsingfors i en tjusig DeLuxe-hytt med minibar och specialfrukost med mousserande vin. På Helsingforsfartygen finns en exklusiv vinbar med utmärkta kvalitetsviner som du dessutom kan köpa med dig

hem. Upplev Östersjöns bästa fisk- och skaldjursrestaurang Happy Lobster. I en lyxig och avslappnad atmosfär kan du njuta av härliga rätter som hummer, rökta räkor, ostron och storslagna skaldjursplatåer. Missa heller inte vår exklusiva 7-rätters Menu Signature i Bon Vivant.

Helsingforskryssning DeLuxe fr

2406:– Ingår: båtresa, del i dubbel DeLuxe-hytt inkl 2 specialfrukostar, 2 drink- och 2 middagskuponger.

08-22 21 40* www.tallinksilja.se *Serviceavgift 60:– tillkommer, boka online så bjuder vi på den. Pris per person när 2 delar hytt. Gäller utvalda avgångar. Begränsat antal platser.

Förmånliga bussanslutningar till/från ett flertal orter, läs mer på tallinksilja.se

DORIAN

contents

PEOPLE

40 48 52 65 72

FITNESS GURU LES MILLS JR J O N N Y W O O P E R F O R M A N C E A RT I S T I T- B O Y N I K T H A K K A R FITNESS MODEL TODD SANFIELD T O P M O D E L D AV I D G A N D Y

26 60 22 36 58 76 78

M O V I E – C H E R ’ S M O T H E R G E O R G I A H O LT M O V I E – J A M E S F R A N C O ’ S G AY M O V I E A RT – J E F F K O O N S ARCHITECTURE – THE NEW NOBEL CENTER MUSIC – SISTER A R T – A N D R É S A R A I VA A RT – B O B M I Z E R & T O M O F F I N L A N D

42 54

L O N D O N ’ S R E V I VA L S T PA N C R A S H O T E L

26 57 62 80

SHOPPING – GIFT GUIDE D E S I G N – 1 9 G R E E K S T R E E T G A L L E RY DESIGN – JOHN HENRIC MENSWEAR LABEL H E A LT H – L E T ’ S T A L K A B O U T D R U G S

86 96 102

ACHTUNG BABY MONOCHROME MANIA ANARCHY

CULTURE

LIFESTYLE FASHION

P. 2 6

JAMES PRESTON

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MEET ESSEX-BORN DAVID GANDY, 33, WHO BECAME A HOUSEHOLD NAME AFTER MARIO TESTINO SHOT HIM FOR DOLCE & GABBANA FRAGRANCE ADS

TRAVEL

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P. 4 2

P. 6 5

P. 7 8

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music

“ STA RT I ST ” JEFF KOONS EXPLORES THE EROTIC APPEAL OF BUBBLES WITH FETISH-INDUCING PAC K AG I N G

EROTIC DESIGN A business tête-à-tête between Champagne house Dom Pérignon and contemporary art giant Jeff Koons proves that packaging has become a powerful marketing tool, and that if the packaging designer happens to be a celebrity – even better!

It’s the art giant’s bombastic pop art interpretations of banal objects and animals, produced in stainless steel with mirror finish surfaces that has brought him mass appeal.

This appeal extends to Lady Gaga, who collaborated with him for the cover of her album Artpop.

Never one to shy away from publicity and sexual connotations (remember his marriage to the Italian porn star / politician Cicciolina?), Koons has recreated his large-scale, erotic interpretation of the famed Venus of Willendorf into a two-foot sculpture. Realised in polyurethane resin, the sculpture features a bottle of equally bold and provocative Dom Pérignon Rosé Vintage 2003 nestled within its bulbous belly.

As with Koon’s industry peer, Damien Hirst, critics are polarized in their views of his work: pioneering and relevant, or kitschy, cynical and self-merchandising?

Whichever view you favor, if you’d like a slice of the action then you need to act fast, as just a few hundred limited edition packages comprising both the champagne and the sculpture are available for sale, naturally by request. The $20,000 price tag tops previous Dom Pérignon artist collaborations, including the one with Andy Warhol. “A bargain”, according to Koons himself.

D o m P e r i g n o n ’s 2 0 0 3 v i n t a g e r o s é i s a l s o a v a i l a b l e p r i c e d $ 4 6 5 f r o m S e l f r i d ges.com (among other retailers), in a more humble, Koons-designed gift box.

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速

www.ljung.net Concept Store Drottninggatan 88A, Stockholm

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culture

CHER’S 86-YEAR-YOUNG MOTHER GEORGIA HOLT WAS AN ACTRESS, MODEL AND SINGER, BUT HER DREAMS NEVER CAME TO LIFE – UNTIL NOW!

TURN BACK TIME What started as a 16-minute birthday video turned into an hour-long documentary, featuring unprecedented access into Cher’s fascinating family history.

The documentary was timed to coincide with the release of Cher’s new studio album, Closer To The Truth, her first in over a decade.

The documentary reveals the extraordinary life story of Cher’s mother, Georgia Holt, and features in-depth interviews with Holt, her daughters Cher and Georganne LaPiere Bartylak, and grandchildren Chaz Bono and Elijah Blue Allman.

An album of previously unreleased tracks

by Holt has also been launched.

This project started as a gift for my mom’s 86th birthday. Like most things in my family, it was initiated by my sister Georganne, who asked me if I could update mom’s album. So I went BIG –This project started as a gift for my mom’s 86th birthday. Like most things in my family, it was initiated by my sister Georganne, who asked me if I could update mom’s album. So I went BIG (I’m known in the family for doing that), Cher says.

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The documentary opens with Holt’s humble beginnings in rural Arkansas, where she first dreamt of stardom as a little girl. She went through six tumultuous marriages while pursuing a career as a singer and actress among Hollywood’s elite. After a series of dramatic personal and professional triumphs and setbacks she successfully raised two loving daughters. One of those daughters would go on to not just live out Holt’s own unfulfilled dream but also become one of the world’s biggest stars.

Holt first considered aborting Cher, and then later, putting her up for adoption.

After initial reservations of revealing the darker sides of the family history, Cher changed her mind.

–I thought, this could be tricky, but what’s anyone going to do to me now? So I come from a poor, white trash background. It doesn’t make any difference, Cher says.

An album with long-lost recordings that Holt taped more than three decades ago was released earlier this year. It includes tracks recorded in the 80s with Elvis Presley’s band. It also features a neverbefore-heard duet with Holt and Cher.

The birthday video that first inspired the documentary is an exclusive feature of the direct download format. The documentary is executive produced by Academy Award winner Cher, produced by Todd Hughes, and written and directed

by P. David Ebersole.

B u y. d e a r m o m l o v e c h e r d o c u m e n t a r y. c o m Dearmomlovecher.com U K i Tu n e s

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culture

Cher, with mother, Georgia Holt, and sister Georganne LaPiere Bartylak dorianmagazine.com

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shopping

M A S S I V E J I R A I YA S W E AT S H I RT Chubby chaser chic comes in the form of this boxy sweater with an endeering motiv by acclaimed Japanese artist Jiraya. $70, GayManga.

BigCartel.com CLIVE CHRISTIAN N O . 1 P E R F U M E S P R AY ” T h e w o r l d ’s m o s t e x p e n s i v e p e rfume”, is created using the finest, rarest, most precious ingredients.

Presented in a gold-crowned bottle symbolizing quality and excellence as awarded by Queen Victoria. $1,000, Saksfifthavenue.com B U R B E R R Y E Y E L E T D E TA I L I PA D M I N I C A S E B u r b e r r y ’s s m o o t h l e a ther iPad mini case with polished metal eyelets, brogue details and a foldover front with magnets and s o f t s u e d e l i n i n g . $ 1 0 3 0 , B u r b e r r y. com V A L K E E L I G H T- E M I T T I N G E A R B U D S T h e Va l k e e ” h e a d p h o n e s ” shine light directly into your ears, onto the photosensitive regions of the brain. 12 minutes per day is proven to increase energy levels, boost cognitive performance and even imp r o v e y o u r d i e t . $ 2 7 0 , Va l k e e . c o m SAINT LAURENT HIGH T O P R O L L E R S K AT E S The vintage inspired rolles skates are made from a classic pair of sneakers attached to a metal frame with four old school wheels and stopper frame. $1,150, Ysl.com

–––––––

PERSONAL

SHOPPER ––––––– CURATED TOYS FOR DISCERNING BOYS

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shopping

V E R A N D A T H E A RT O F OUTDOOR LIVING HARDCOVER Magnificent homes, their lush gardens, elegant courtyards, and inviting pools set amid breathtaking landscapes. This lavish new book f r o m Ve r a n d a m a g a z i n e o f f e r s a wealth of ideas for exceptional outdoor rooms and spaces, all created b y t h e w o r l d ’s b e s t d e s i g n e r s . $ 4 0 , Ve r a n d a . c o m SAMSUNG NX300 CAMERA The crowdpleasing NX300 with 20.3-megapixels lets you shoot like a pro and then share like a teenager, with Wi-Fi options and open source solutions. $499.99, Samsung.com LANVIN DUFFEL BAG The large waterproof duffel bag is stylish and functional made from calfskin leather with geometric, topstitched patterning and a waterproof nylon section for modern seafarers. $2370, Ln-cc.com BALENCIAGA ARENA GIANT GOLD BRACELET STUD Stack on trendy masculine bracelets made of wrinkled lambskin and oversize rose gold studs. $245, Barneys.com KARL LAGERFELD & SHIN TA N A K A D I Y PA P E R D O L L Feeling crafty? The log on to Karl Lagerfelds Facebook page to download a template for printing and creating a unique Lagerfeld doppelgänger – or if you prefer, his cat, Choupette. Facebook.com/karllagerfeld + KarlXShin JASMIN ROWLANDSON MICROWORLD SCULPTURE J a s m i n e R o w l a n d s o n ’s p o r c e l a i n a n d g o l d s c u l p t u r e b r i n g s a t i n y, 1 0 c m , world into your home. Each sculpture produced is unique and references anemones and corals. $400, Wo l f a n d b a d g e r . c o m

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VERSACE HAAS B R O T H E R S T S H I RT T h e s t a t e m e n t T- s h i r t i s a l d o t h e maximalist signature piece of Ve r s a c e ’s collaboration with the H a a s B r o t h e r s . $ 5 7 5 , Ve r s a c e . c o m PROENZA SCHOULER CLUTCH The tactile Proenza Schouler flapfront clutch is a cool rubber studded unisex re-imagination of a nostalgic shape. What appears like futuristic silicone is boldly coloured ombre leather. $1,450, Barneys.com ERASURE SNOW GLOBE CD In the melancholy tradition of rec e n t s e a s o n a l a l b u m s b y Tr a c e y Thorn and Kate Bush – completely void of bells and whistles, glitter and tinsel – Snow Globe delivers holiday mood on a deeper level. $19, Erasuresnowglobe.com HANDHELD 3D SCANNER This easy-to-use handheld scanner allows the user to scan everyday objects – or the intimate parts of that special someone – to be prined on a 3D printer, into physical form. The mind boggles with the potential. $ 3 9 9 , C u b i f y. c o m / s e n s e TOM FORD OUD FLEUR EDP To m F o r d ’ s b l e n d o f o r i e n t a l o u d wood and rosewood create a vibrant, unforgettable unisex fragrance.

250ml decanter. $520, Harveynichols.com ADIDAS SPRINGBLADE ELECTRICITY Beyond the row of 16 polymer blades that gives the model its excellent running capabilities, think about style, just imagine vibrant neon and black version worn with a suit. $180, Adidas.com

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shopping

PIERRE CARDIN 6156 FRAMES A contemporary take on the distinctive style of the Sixties. The relaunched Pierre Cardin 9156 frames produced by Safilo was Monsieur C a r d i n ’s f a v o u r i t e m o d e l , n o w a v a liable in top end opticians. $200, Jpopticians.com VA S A B L A D E A C R Y L I C SCULPTURES L A - b a s e d a r t i s t Va s a M i h i c h c r e a t e s stunning ”objets” in coloaured, polished acrylic. The sculptures catch light and generate ever changing effects in return. $1,500, Barneys.com HOORSENBUHS GOLD NEW YORK CITY RING A fine jewelry investment, this 18-karat-gold double ring from Hoorsenbuhs adds ostentatious urban s t y l e t o n e w l e v e l s . I t ’s p a r t o f t h e limited-edition Jay-Z collaboration with proceeds helping low-income students. $12,500, Barneys.com K E N Z O B I G E Y E S W E AT E R All eyes on this white wool sweater from Kenzo with a crew neck, long sleeves and a multicoloured all seeing eye print on the front. $665, Farfetch.com I AM DANDY BOOK Beautifully photographed and wellwritten, I Am Dandy documents 57 sartorial gents from around the world making it the ultimate resource for modern dandys. $58, Shop.gestalten.com B U R B E R RY B R I T R H Y T H M E D T Yo u n g , f r e s h , a n d s u p e r e n e r g e t i c , the Brit Rhythm man is free to be spontanious with this fragrance that goes from day to night without skipp i n g a b e a t . $ 9 3 , B u r b e r r y. c o . u k

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MCQUEEN DAMIEN H I R S T C O L L A B O R AT I O N In celebration of the 10th anniversary of the skull scarf, Alexander McQueen presents an exclusive collaboration with Damien Hirst featuring his macabre animal mosaics.

From $515, Alexandermcqueen.com LUNETTES DE SOLEIL MONCLER PHARRELL WILLIAMS MASQUE Pharrell Williams teamed up with Moncler for a collection of retrofuturistic unisex sunglasses. Each model is crafted from a single piece of titanium.The bold Masque model g i v e s i n s t a n t s t a r q u a l i t y. $666, Colette.fr BERNARDAUD JEFF KOONS P O R C E L A I N P L AT E S To c e l e b r a t e 1 5 0 y e a r s , F r e n c h p o r celain company Bernardaud releases kitschy–chic plates adorned with J e f f K o o n s ’s a b s u r d m o t i f s , a m o n g others, Michael Jackson and Bubbles. Set of 6 dinner plates and 6 salad plates $1120, Bernardaud.fr DOLCE AND GABBANA T H E O N E P L AT I N U M The limited edition of the successful fragrance comes dressed in platinum outfit. Classy and sensual.

Ti m e l e s s a n d f a s h i o n a b l e , l i v e l y a n d a t t r a c t i v e , t h e w o o d y s p i c y, o r i e n t a l perfume is developed on the balance of tobacco with refined woody notes.

100ml, $100, Harrods.com D E S VA L L C L A S S I C C O L L E C T I O N C RY S TA L G O L D S H I S H A Swedish Desvall creates super premium bespoke shishas with hand blown glass, hand made ceramics, a unique leather work and reindeer antler carvings by the indigenous Sami people. Starting at $40,000, a limited edition shisha in 24 carat gold with Swarovski crystals can end u p a t $ 1 0 0 , 0 0 0 . We i g h i n g i n a t 1 5 k i los, The Crystal Gold shisha has a glass smoke chamber, hand-blown by Orrefors. Desvall.com BOIS DE BOLOGNE SCULPTURE To k y o b o r n a r t i s t R a m o n To d o f u ses volcanic rock and polished glass with surgical precision – and with stunning effect.

Price on request, A r t f r o n t g a l l e r y. c o m

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shopping

J E S U I S A M É R I C A I N E S W E AT Classic sweatshirt with retro print.

T h o s e o f y o u w h o d i d n ’t s l e e p t h rough your French classes, may catch the subtle humour. $73, Us.gant.com FENDI MONSTER CHARM F e n d i ’s s m a l l m o n s t e r c h a r m s c o m e in a bunch of different executions.

Attachable with a textured leather strap, they add a whimsical touch to any outfit, keyring or bag. $530, Net-a-porter.com MARIO CASILLI PHOTO BOOK M a r i o C a s i l l i ’s O T T p h o t o g r a p h s defined the fabulous and outrageous entertainment industry in the 1980s.

T h e f i r s t b o o k d e d i c a t e d t o C a s i l l i ’s work, With foreword by Joan Collins. $50, Reelartpress.com A N E S TA S I A V O D K A America takes on the world with a world-class handcrafted grain vodka, whose bottle design by Karim Rashid honors the water source – the snowcapped Cascade Mountains, one of t h e w o r l d ’s p u r e s t w a t e r s o u r c e s . $39, Anestasiavodka.com

LOEWE + COMME DES GARÇONS AMAZONA 24H BLACK DENIM L o e w e ’s 3 5 - y e a r- o l d A m a z o n a b a g gets a punk luxe makeover in Japanese fashion wunderkind Junya Wa t a n a b e ’s f a v o u r i t e m a t e r i a l d e n i m , L o e w e ’s e x p e r t i s e i n l e a t h e r. $2580, Colette.fr

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ANN DEMEULEMEESTER C L AW R I N G Demeulemeester may have left the company but her dna is visible in this ring in tarnished sterling silver in a bird claw silhouette. $500, Brownsfashion.com AGONIST DARK SAPHIR FRAGRANCE The new unisex fragrance from artisan brand Agonist is complex oriental and spicy fragrance inspired by saphires. The handcrafted one kilo crystal bottle is designed by Kosta B o d a ’s Å s a J u n g e l i u s , 5 0 m l . $ 1 3 0 0 Agonistparfums.com MADE IN CHELSEA: LIFE AND STYLE ESSENTIALS C a n ’t a f f o r d a t o w n h o u s e i n L o n d o n ’s most upscale neighbourhood? The next best thing may be the official handbook to all things inspired by the successful Channel 4 reality show about the young social elite. $16.90, Amazon.com ODEUR HIGH TOP SNEAKERS The Odeur Artefact high top sneakers are a purist vision in white soft leather and with elastic details instead of laces in front. $575, Odeur. se LOUIS VUITTON X CHAPMAN BROTHERS SAC J a k e a n d D i n o C h a m p m a n ’s m e s m e rising illustrations adorn the voluminous travel bag in soft calfskin leather, with a masterpiece result.

Limited edition of ten. $21250, Loui s Vu i t t o n . c o m BALLANCE DRINKING SET Swedish design studio Front created a c l e v e r w h i s k y s e t f o r B a l l a n t i n e ’s .

The clever pieces in glass and brass are stackable. Only 150 units will be released. $575, Ballantines.com.

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FIFTH AV E N U E STYLE – A D E S I G N E R ’ S N E W Y O R K A PA RT M E N T Interior designer and founder of the iconic lifestyle brand Slatkin & Co., opens the doors of his legendary m a x i m a l i s t F i f t h Av e n u e a p a r t m e n t and invites readers to accompany him on an intimate tour. $60, Abramsbooks.com J O H N H E N R I C N AV Y BLUE RED TIE J o h n H e n r i c ’s s t y l i s h t i e i n j e c t s contemporary flair to any outfit, or with a dark dress suit and contrasting shirt pattern, for a fresh modern take on formal. $61, Johnhenric.com ESCENTRIC EM01 BLACK EDITION FRAGRANCE The fastest-selling fragrance range ever at Harvey Nichols in London. is more science class than perfume. the cult unisex fragrance contains Iso E Super, a pheromone that aff e c t a t h o s e a r o u n d y o u . I t ’s 1 0 0 m l , $140, LuckyScent.com HAPPY PLUGS 18 C A R AT G O L D E A R B U D Stylish quality headphones in 18 carat solid gold. A Swedish goldsmith i n O l d To w n , S t o c k h o l m , m a k e s t h e m by hand. $14500, Happyplugs.com M O U S TA C H E VA S E The innovative ceramic Moustache vase challenges the convention by displaying nature one flower, or branch, at a time. The result is alm o s t w i t h a J a p a n e s e s e n s i b i l i t y. $79, Moustache.fr

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MARC BY MARC JACOBS C H R O N O G R A P H WAT C H ROCK COLLECTION MBM5028 A statement 46mm luxury designer timepiece that will effortlessly take you through season after season.

T h e m e n ’s M B M 5 0 2 8 w a t c h b o a s t s a circular dial in brilliant gunmetal finish with striking blue numeral accents. $580, Klockor.nu MOUNTED FROGLEGGED LEAF BEETLE Animals (that are under no natural threat), can add exoric beauty in any interior. The iridescent and emerald green Malaysian frog-legged leaf beetle shines like a jewel. It comes framed. $129, Theevolutionstore. com VENINI BOLLE BOTTLE T i m e l e s s 6 0 s d e s i g n b y Ta p i o W i r k kala, the product of a collaboration w i t h M u r a n o - b a s e d g l a s s w o r k s Ve nini, 1966–67. Hand blown with the very difficult incalmo technique – melting together forms, usually with parts of different color. 50cm high. $ 2 8 0 0 , Yo o x . c o m A N T I Q U E S TAT U E F R A G M E N T Scower online auctionhouses for exquisite and unique fine art and antiques, like this rare fragment from a roman statue, donated to the Swedish science academy in the 1840s.

Estimate. $1375, Auktionsverket. com NUDEAUDIO WIRELESS SPEAKER Minimal design and serious sound comes courtesy of N u d e A u d i o ’s wireless speaker that works up 10 meters with Bluetooth. Good to go with smartphones, tablets, laptops and other Bluetooth-enabled devices, including the iPhone and iPad. $49.99, Nudeaudio.com

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I TA L I A I N D E P E N D E N T DRIP SUNGLASSES The unisex Drip sunglasses from the s t y l i s h e n t r e p r e n e u r L a p o E l k a n n ’s creative brand, Italia Independent are bold, light weight and with a unique scratch-proof flocking treatment, $210, Italiaindependent.com S A N D Q V I S T + G R A N D PA SHOECARE KIT Leather care kit in heavy 18oz cotton canvas with details in dark brown leather. Contains products from french Saphire. A polishing cloth, black shoeshine with natural turpentine, leather conditioner and a horsehair brush. The leather care kit is made together with Grandpa, one of Sandqvist first and largest retailers, to celebrate the first nine years of collaboration. $94, Sandqvist.net PHILIPS BEARD TRIMMER 9000 The waterproof beard trimmer has a efficient cutting blade that trims down to 0,4mm, and with unique laser precision, making the mundane chore pleasurable. $100 philips.com VERSACE STUDDED WEDGE LOAFER Loafers with a a hint of punk attitude that add seventies aesthetic to a contemporary outfit. $1,295, Ve r s a c e . c o m

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A R E –––––– The –––––– NOBEL PRIZE FOUNDATION CALLS ON THE FOREMOST ARCHITECTS OF OUR TIMES TO CREATE STOCKHOLM’S LANDMARK NOBEL CENTER

T h e B U T T E R F LY p r o p o s a l b y A r c h i t e c t s Kim Herforth Nielsen, Jan Ammundsen and Bo Boje Larsen for 3XN (Denmark) was not selected as one of three entries to proceed in the competition.

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Images Nobelcenter.se

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N A S

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NOBELHUSET David Chipperfield and Christoph Felger (Germany)

Ever since the inception of the Nobel Prize, a building where the Nobel Laureates and their achievements can be presented to the general public has been envisioned.

The current Nobel museum is located in one of Stockholm’s most beautiful 18th-century buildings. Originally opened in the spring of 2001 for the centenary of the Nobel Prize, it has since faced great public demand for tours and as a result it is rather cramped for space. The Nobel Foundation’s new vision is to relocate to a more suitable landmark building on the Blasieholmen peninsula in central Stockholm. The first step on the road to achieving this vision is a unique international architecture competition. June 2013 marked the beginning of the two-stage competition to design the building that will become the new Nobel Center.

Alfred Nobel (1833–1896) was a cosmopolitan with a background in St. Petersburg, Stockholm and Paris. Along with his inventions, he constantly sought solutions to different problems. Notably, the invention of dynamite solved some problems, but also created new ones. Later in his life, Alfred Nobel had the idea of ideas – the Nobel Prize.

More than 800 laureates have since been awarded the Nobel Prize and some of the world’s most important ideas and discoveries can be found among them.

Thanks to a generous donation, most of the financing has been secured for the construction of the Nobel Center. The Erling-Persson Family Foundation and the Knut and Alice Wallenberg Foundation are contributing $120 million, making it one of the largest private donations for a project of this kind in Sweden.

Out of 140 architects considered, three have now been selected by the Nobel Foundation to compete to design its new home. Important criteria in selecting the architects T h e c u r rdesign e n t N and o b e artistic l M u s eabilities um. included and experience working in intricate urban environments where historical context and the natural environment must be considered with sensitivity. The architect selection included some very big names, such as BIG, David Chipperfield Architects, Herzog & de Meuron, and OMA. In April 2014, the winning proposal will be presented.

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A ROOM AND A HALF Johan Celsing, Johan Celsing Arkitektkontor (Sweden)

A P(A)LACE TO ENJOY Gert Wing책rdh, Wing책rdh Arkitektkontor (Sweden)

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DESPITE BEING BORN INTO ”FITNESS ROYALTY”LES MILLS JR NEVER ACTUALLY PLANNED JOINING THE FAMILY BUSINESS w o r d s b e n j a m i n fa l k

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With a number of successful fitness class concepts like Bodypump, Bodycombat and Bodybalance in the brand portfolio, the Mills family name certainly came with built in expectations, but Les Mills JR never expected to become involved in the family business. How surprising then, that he now is the program director of its latest concept, The Grit.

Les’s grandfather Lesley “Les” Mills, a successful athlete, started the business 1968, in Auckland, New Zealand. Les’s parents kept the tradition going and in the 1980s the company grew rapidly as fitness became all the rage. When the Bodypump concept was launched in 1990, Les Mills became a household name. Today Les Mills is one of the largest fitness companies in the world with 14,000 clubs in 80 countries.

I’m about to interview the tall, dark and handsome, 24-year old before his master class during Les Mills’ quarterly “Super Saturday”, an international event where instructors are invited to learn new routines for their classes. Les Mills has hired the enormous Stockholm Globe arena, for the occasion.

While researching the brand I almost felt concerned about its “cult” status with extremely enthusiastic “followers”, as opposed to voluntary training sessions.

The size of the arena dawns on me as I make my way to the hotel’s top suite.

Hundreds of media people run around preparing frantically. Instructors with bulging muscles and minimal outfits put finishing touches to their choreography.

It’s easy to understand why so many gay men have an interest in working for the company.

While I wait outside the appointed suite, I can hear a polite male voice politely responding to an endless slew of questions from a giggling female reporter.

25 minutes late, I finally get to meet the most recent rising star of the Mills clan.

Did you feel obligated to work for the family business?

– No, that’s the great thing - my parents always gave me the option to do something else. It wasn’t until I was about 20 years old, when I came back to Auckland from Los Angeles for the summer, that I worked in the family business and actually realized that this was the company I wanted to work for.

Were you already an instructor at that point?

– I became a certified bodypump instructor when I was 17, but I had been going to the classes since I was 15. I also trained in basketball all through high school, and in fact I still do it.

What did your friends think about you doing bodypump during high school?

– Les Mills is really big in New Zealand, especially within group fitness, so because I had grown up with the name, everyone knew that I was integrated with the company, so it’s been really cool. In fact most of my friends joined me for bodypump classes in high school.

Are your parents happy that you’ve taken an active role in the company’s development?

– I believe so, but some days – maybe not so much! (Laughs) No, honestly, it’s crazy how well we work together; we always know the difference between parents and son, and co-workers, and as I work quite closely with my mum (who’s more or less my boss), we have a professional relationship all day long but when I come home for dinner at night, she’s just my mum again.

So we do have a good connection.

In Sweden, an intermittent fasting trend called 5:2 is popular. What do you think about fasting as a diet and health plan?

I wasn’t aware of this trend but I can tell you about how I eat, and how I structure my diet. I would never fast; I guess this could be scientifically wrong and perhaps I’m behind the times, but I love eating! I strongly believe in eating but then I also think that fasting could do something very interesting for you mentally, because your body and mind wants you to eat but you’re stopping it. I eat healthy, rounded meals every day because that’s how you get energy and stop yourself from being grouchy. To me that means eating good food when you can and trying to stay healthy, but at the same time, if you’re out with friends and you feel like having a burger, then eat one. Ok, maybe you’ll have to train a little bit harder the next day, but that’s fine – you have to enjoy

men in the classes. So yes, they are overrepresented. (Looks really surprised)

I had a blonde wig, and looked terrible in a floral dress with my hairy legs

your life!

Was “Grit” developed for busy people like me?

– It’s a 30 minute workout, so in terms of timeframe or if you’re very busy, it doesn’t take long but it is high-intensity interval training. It’s all about working really hard for short periods of time, with very short recovery periods – pretty much peaks and troughs. You could be working for 20 seconds on an extreme activity, doing whole body functional work, and then you would take a 10 second recovery break.

Then you might have a 1 minute workout followed by a 30 second recovery. It’s addictive and it’s very challenging, but if you do it 2-3 times a week you’ll achieve great results.

How did you come up with the concept?

– High Intensity Interval Training (HIIT) is a big trend right now worldwide; it’s what athletes have been doing for years as it’s proven to get you fit faster. We kept tabs on that trend, and as my whole family have been athletes for years we thought we should really look into it. So we started to develop a program and it turned out to be The Grit.

Are there any specific trends or workouts at Les Mills that are popular with the gays?

– No, I don’t see much of a difference.

Where I work out in Auckland, at what is known as “Les Mills’ Mecca”, it’s really mixed at both classes and in the gym. I can stereotypically say that more gays might go to group fitness, but it’s not what I’ve seen personally.

Would you say that there are more gays in your classes, considering that we are only 3-5 % of the male population?

– That’s a very interesting question.

When you put it like that, gays are definitely a larger proportion than 5% of the

What is the gayest thing you’ve ever done?

– That’s also a very interesting question!

(Laughs) I’ve never done anything specifically gay. I’ve never had any sexual interaction with another man. But I’ve grown up in an environment where it’s been just as normal to be gay as it is to be straight, a super open environment, so I wouldn’t have any problem being gay. I find it shocking when it’s not accepted.

I once dressed up as a girl at a party – if that’s considered gay? I had a blonde wig, and looked terrible in a floral dress with my hairy legs…

You could have shaved your legs.

– I like my hairy legs to be fluffy – it keeps me warm! (Laughs) I don’t think it’s a bad idea to manscape, but I leave the rest “natural”.

What do you think is the next big thing in excercise is?

– Actually, I think that HIIT training is going to stick around for a long time as it’s scientifically proven that it’s working. In term of other trends…my best answer is Les Mills The Grit! (Laughs)

To me, the idea of teaching a fitness class is a radical act of kindness Why do you think Les Mills has become an international success?

– Firstly, it’s about the quality of the product that we provide as well as the fact that it’s quarterly, and that we consistently deliver new routines. We’re a little like a machine, but one that churns out quality workouts. I also think people like us because we’re genuinely in it for the cause – we want to make people healthier, and we’re not just here to make money. People can tell when you are genuine, they find and connect to that genuine approach to life and to fitness, and they get attached

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to it. That’s how we’ve developed our tribe! It’s a cool, awesome bunch of people who love fitness and love to help others.

To me, the idea of teaching a fitness class is a radical act of kindness - you’re helping people to live longer and feel better. It’s a cool thing. Without trying to sound corny!

Where will you be in five years?

– Probably living back here and starving!

(Laughs). No, seriously, I love it here. I definitely see myself as being a part of the company. I just want to keep on working and developing. Whether I like it or not I’m ambitious, so I’d like my work to be at a higher level. I’d like to keep my stress levels down while still achieving. That’s something I’m really keen to do.

Where do you think the company will be in five years?

– I definitely think we’ll continue to grow.

We have some very interesting projects in the works, where the aim is to reach even more people and make more people healthy. But we also want to keep our family vibe, the loving vibe that we’ve got with our instructors.

You talk about being healthy, but what is your personal views on drugs and alcohol?

– I don’t say no to alcohol, and back in my university days I used to drink a whole lot more than I do now, as you’re supposed to… (Laughs). I’m cool with alcohol.

I think human beings need a release; whether it is alcohol, mediation, yoga, or like in California, smoking weed, it’s fine with me, as long as you’re not doing it so much that it becomes unhealthy. Find what’s right for you and use it as a release.

The life of a human is strangely stressful and hard at times, and you don’t know what the future will bring – so enjoy your life!

NAME Les Mills AGE 24 R E L AT I O N S H I P S i n g l e DESIGNER Robert Geller SHOE DESIGNER Common project WORKOUT GEAR Reebok FRAGRANCE Comme des Garcon Amazing Green SLEEPS IN In the buff or sleeping undies from Ralph Lauren (pulls down his pants and shows a pair of soft boxers) FAV O R I T E W O R K O U T T h e G r i t , weights and basketball dorianmagazine.com

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l e at h e r wa i s t c o at A C N E f o x f u r v e s t – w o r n a s h at – 6 2 AT E L I E R pants WKD

POMP& CIRCUMSTANCE The HISTORICAL CROWN JEWEL combines COSMOPOLITAN STYLE & CONTEMPORARY SUBSTANCE

fa s h i o n i m a g e s B E N J A M I N FA L K & J A K E RY D Q V I S T styling DENNIS BRÖCHNER make up HANNA BLOMBERG for make up store model LINUS GUSTIN @nisch model management 42

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hair ADAM CARLSSON

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CREATIVE EXPLOSION

Anglophiles, rejoice - swinging London is back! The jewel of the British crown is enjoying a spiritual rejuvenation, not seen since Malcolm McLaren, in the 1970s, realized that a new youth style was needed, and initiated the punk movement. The Sex Pistols’ Sid Vicious might be appalled to learn that punk has since become a couture commodity, but why be nostalgic when the future is so much brighter? Innovative fashion and industrial designers emerge with every London Fashion and Design week, and the positive effects of the 2012 Olympics econohave helped create a more solid econo my. The ever changing London skyline, with its familiar architectural landmarks like Big Ben, St Paul’s and Buckingham extraordiPalace, is complemented by extraordi nary new buildings such as the phallic Shard, the Swiss Re Tower, known as the “Gherkin”, and the City Hall, quietly gazing over the Thames. And of course, London’s galleries and museums are among the best in the world.

Britain’s favorite food is Chicken Tikka Masala. While just about every global cuisine is available to satisfy a Londoner’s adventurous palate, often at a world-class level, traditional English fare has taken a Gorback seat. Celebrity chefs, such as Gor don Ramsay and Marco Pierre White, are institupromoting its revival. The British institu mation of afternoon tea has had a deluxe ma Oskeover. At the Tea Guild Awards (the Os cars of the tea world), Belgravia’s Goring

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Hotel won the top award. Their menu, consisting of dainty finger sandwiches, homemade buttery scones, and numerous handcrafted patisseries, impeccably served with perfectly brewed teas, received a near perfect score. If afternoon tea is on your menu, beware of underwhelming tourist traps and instead choose a renowned venue like The Ritz or the Dorchester.

Londoners’ passion for music has helped to create one of the world’s best club scenes. Gay venues range from mega clubs to clubs with an ultra-sleek design, as well as bespoke DJ bars. While glossy interior design is a big part of London’s nightlife appeal, a dingy interior can actually add the experience of a sexy 6am club night. Check current event listings so you don’t show up on a regular night.

You’ll be spoiled for choice between trendy and classic bars, so challenge Soho’s conventional charm and venture out to edgy Hoxton/Shoreditch or even the conveniently located, hip and professional Clerkenwell for some stylish bar hopping.

London’s financial and cultural “Olympic high” isn’t enough for some, however, London does have its dark side. Crystal meth is increasing in popularity on the heavy-end party scene, where week-long, “Tina”-fueled, unsafe sex parties known as “slamming parties” (i.e. injecting meth), are becoming more common. The National Aids trust reports that more than 3000 men contracted the AIDS virus in 2012.

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WHAT RECESSION?

A steady flow of flustered customers enter Top Shop’s multilevel flagship store on the retail extravaganza that is Oxford Street. But there are exceptions to the fast fashion-oriented area. The largest of its kind in London, Selfridges keeps transforming and has emerged as the quintessential London luxury department store. Its champagne bar is a perfect watering hole during arduous shopping. Nearby, on Regent Street, the black and white, mock-Tudor facade of eclectic emporium Liberty contrasts beautifully against the modern tones of Carnaby Street, once the place to be in the swinging sixties.

A mere stone’s throw from touristy Oxford Street, lies the bourgeoisie haven Savile Row. Synonymous with old money and fine English tailoring, we’re reminded of a dated class system. But it is no longer the old-fashioned gentlemen’s club it once was. A new generation of innovative tailors, including Richard James and Ozwald Boateng, offer democratically priced bespoke luxe.

New Bond Street boasts a concentration of some of the biggest designer shops in the world: Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Donna Karan and Versace. Old image brands that cater to new wealth. Bond Street also houses Sotheby’s auction house and a number of antique stores.

China Town is as gay as Ronald Reagan, but the abundance of authentic res-

taurants and exotic Chinese medicine pharmacies make it a must-see.

Once a poor neighborhood, the vibrant, multicultural Shoreditch is now the first choice for gays and boho-chic creative types, which has had rather an ironic (adverse?) effect – flat and shop prices are soaring and it’s on its way to becoming anything but alternative.

The neighborhood that gave a name to one of Britain’s most popular car brands (Opel in the rest of Europe) has reigned supreme as the depraved Sodom and Gomorra of London’s nightlife for decades. Remember two things: What happens in Vauxhall, stays in Vauxhall; and two, never leave before daylight, so bring your shades.

Soho’s glittering maze of narrow streets and alleys, trendy shops, elegant bars, and theatres is electrifying but with a quaint feel, as the buildings are quite low. Hailed as the gay Mecca in London, in recent years it’s had some stiff competition from Vauxhall and Shoreditch.

But on a hot summer’s night, the straight couples are the outcasts, which makes one feel almost “normal” for a moment.

In the heart of the West End’s gay theatreland is Leicester Square, where glamorous movie premieres take place at iconic cinemas like the Empire or Odeon. Well-loved musicals such Cats and Les Misérables have enjoyed historically long runs on the stage here.

Many of the stores around Covent Garden cater to skater and street fashion focused teens. This area is also home to

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multiple Paul Smith stores. ARAM (110 Drury Lane) offers two floors of furniture classics by names such as Eileen Gray, Charles & Ray Eames and Alvar Aalto alongside the latest pieces by Ron Arad, Jasper Morrison and Philippe Starck.

This charming area is mostly known for its high-end fashion shopping and important museums. On Sloane Street in Knightsbridge you’ll find gay staples like Prada, Gucci, Giorgio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi and many more. In recent years it has also attracted a lot of excellent furniture and interior design shops. Among the best are B&B Italia’s cathedral-like shop (250 Brompton Road) in South Kensington, designed by the famous minimalist architect John Pawson. Nearby is The Conran Shop at 8 Fulham Road, founded by design guru Sir Terence Conran. With exquisite pieces such as ceramics by Jean Cocteau and Pablo Picasso, mirrors by Line Vautrin, and silver furniture by Bonetti, David Gill (60 Fulham Road) is the first stop for London’s leading interior designers.

Made famous in the eponymous movie, and for the Notting Hill Carnival, the area attracts increasing numbers of visitors but still retains its character as an artistic, eccentric village.

BASIC INFO

Heathr o w, G a t w i c k , S t a n s t e d , L u t o n a n d L o n d o n C i t y A i r p o r t ’s h i g h - s p e e d train connections make London c o n v e n i e n t l y a c c e s s i b l e . L o n d o n ’s ubiquitous black cabs are the best evening transportation choice, and the historical “tube” (London Underground) is the best way to get a r o u n d d u r i n g t h e d a y, e s p e c i a l l y during the rush hour. The iconic red buses are perfect for an informal and cheap sight-seeing tour. A s m a r t i d e a i s t o b u y a L o n d o n Tr a velcard, which gives you unlimited travel on most public transportation, including buses, trains and the tram.

› BODYBOUND SS14 O p p o s i t e p a g e L I B E RT I N E S S 1 4

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SHOPPING

SELFRIDGES (400 Oxford Street, W1A 1AB) Dramatized in the British television series Mr Selfridge, the ”Best Dep a r t m e n t S t o r e i n t h e Wo r l d ” f e a t u r e s t o p d e s i g n e r c o l l e c t i o n s , a C h a m p a g n e b a r , t h e w o r l d ’s l a r g e s t s h o e d e p a r t m e n t – a n d L o u i s Vu i t t o n ’s n e w three floor in-store townhouse!

L I B E RT Y ( R e g e n t S t r e e t , W 1 B 5 A H ) L i b e r t y i s a l e a d i n g d e p a r t m e n t s t o r e , c e n t r a l l y l o c a t e d i n t h e We s t E n d .

B e h i n d t h e i c o n i c m o c k Tu d o r f a c a d e , t h e e m p o r i u m o f f e r s t h e l a t e s t i n f a s h i o n s a n d j e w e l r y, b e a u t y a n d f u r n i t u r e .

HARRODS (87 - 135 Brompton Road, SW1X 7XL) E x o t i c a n i m a l s a r e n ’t a v a i l a b l e t h e s e d a y s , b u t a n y t h i n g e l s e i m a g i n a b l e i s . T h e f a s h i o n d e p a r t m e n t s a r e a m o n g L o n d o n ’s f i n e s t , f r o m t r a d i t i o n a l t o c u t t i n g e d g e . T h e f o o d h a l l i s l e g e n d a r y, w i t h o l d s t y l e d e c o r a n d a n enormous section.

H A RV E Y N I C H O L S ( 1 0 9 - 1 2 5 K n i g h t s b r i d g e , S W 1 X 7 R J ) “ H a r v e y N i c s ” , a s i t ’s k n o w n l o c a l l y, i s H a r r o d ’s y o u n g e r a n d h i p p e r s i b ling. This fashionista favourite stocks the best well-known labels aswell as emerging talent. On our visit, en route to the bustling oasis Fifth Floor Champagne bar, we have to penetrate a barricade of anti-fur protesters.

F O R T N U M A N D M A S O N ( 1 8 1 P i c c a d i l l y, L o n d o n W 1 A 1 E R ) F o u n d e d i n 1 7 0 7 a s a l u x u r y g r o c e r y s t o r e , t h e b e a u t i f u l “ F o r t n u m ’s ” c o n tinues to stock a exotic delicacies to royals and plebs alike.

TOP SHOP (214 Oxford Street, W1C 1DA) The three-storey flagship store has become a symbol of the high street f a s h i o n . To u r i s t s , t e e n s a n d s o p h i s t i c a t e d l a d i e s f l o c k f o r i n e x p e n s i v e a n d trendy styles, sharp suits and accessories.

SKANDIUM (86 Marylebone High Street, W1U 4QS) This understatedly chic Scandinavian design Mecca is owned by three Scandinavians, and focusing on both classic- and progressive furniture, lighting and homeware from the north.

WOLF & BADGER (46 Ledbury Road, W11 2AB) The best of emerging UK designers is on display in this hyper-modern c o n c e p t s t o r e , n o w w i t h t w o l o c a t i o n s . ” B a d g e r ” w a s n a m e d o n e o f B r i t a i n ’s Best Boutiques in 2010.

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ANALOGIA PROJECT designers Andrea Mancuso & Emilia Serra ”sketches ” 3D objects in mid air by using black wool on (digitally designed) transparent threads, creating an imaginary world that questions our perception of space – with striking effect.

M A R N I ’s collection of colourful chairs is made in Colombia by exprisoners.

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19 Greek street is one of London’s most exciting galleries, by showcasing socially responsible design that proves sustainable can be sexy.

Launched to coincide with London Design Festival 2012, 19 Greek Street was established by the charming Canadian Designer and Creative Director Marc Peridis.

The gallery – and interior design collective – is housed in a Victorian Soho townhouse, which itself had to be restored from almost being in ruins before opening.

The commercial and experimental furniture collections are exhibited over six white washed levels. The interior design business occupies the top floor alongside an exhibition space for Supercyclers, a collective of designers who seek to reuse waste materials in their work. On the first and second floors, Espasso showcases Brazilian design from the middle of the 20th century to the present day. The third floor gallery contains furniture from a number of international design studios, including pieces made from Studiomama and Parisian studio Nocc. The 4th floor collection room houses limited edition works by selected international designers. On the lower ground level is a screening room and an exhibition space featuring non-commercial works, including Fashion house Marni’s colourful woven plastic chairs produced by former prisoners in Colombia.

It’s easy to understand why the townhouse often is used for private events.

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H I L L A S H A M I A’ s f u r n i t u r e c o m b i n e s w o o d t h a t ’s i n c i n i r a t e d a n d t h e n replaced with an aluminium cast in the same shape.

M A R C P E R I D I S i n t h e g a l l e r y ’s first own furniture collection, Rei m a g i n e d b y N i n a To l s t r u p , s e a t i n g that uses left over fabrics from fashion designer Marc Jacobs, was hailed as one of the most innovative of the 2013 Milan furniture fair.

19greekstreet.com

CAN SUSTAINABLE BE SEXY?

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JONNY WOO – P E R F O R M A N C E A RT I S T –

Artist Robyn and label ACNE share an appreciation of Jonny Woo’s ”ott” performance art. The unsung hero(ine) of London’s alternative drag scene now stars in an upcoming documentary Are there any misconceptions about the alt-drag scene? Maybe that it’s about being a mess. When it comes to clubbing and partying there is an element of that. My approach was always that drag should not be an exclusive gay clique where boys in girls clothing and heels sit in a corner fanning themselves, scowling and saying, “Aren’t we fabulous?” I believe that the ‘falling apart’ is a green light for everyone to go wild. There is often substance behind the chaos.

Do you think the cultural acceptance of drag has changed in the last decade? In a small corner of the world called East London, yes. On the London Gay scene, yes. I think more guys are willing to give it a go. Especially now that everyone has a beard – heels and beards can match.

In a wider context, shows like RuPaul’s Drag Race reach further. But drag will always be pretty niche, and its impact lies in the fact that it will never be mainstream.

Was there a definitive moment in your career that gave you the confidence to say “now, I’m an artist”? In New York, it is acceptable to call yourself an artist if your medium is something other than painting or sculpture. In London, or Britain even, you can be labeled pretentious if you label yourself as such. New York taught me that only you know if you are an artist, and so if you believe you are, then that’s what you are. Whether or not you choose to bang on about it is another thing. I let the work speak for itself.

Is there a message in your performance art? If I turn up and jump around a club, often not. If I’ve spent a year putting together a show at Soho Theatre, or written a song, or been piqued into action by something on the news, or something I have witnessed, then yes.

Who’d be a worthy “successor” to you on the London alt-drag scene? It’s never been mine to own. I actually think it’s time for a seismic shift in queer partying.

What’s the difference between a fashion- and a club crowd? At fashion event audiences want something ‘fashionable’ or that references style. Or at least something they perceive to do so. Shoving bananas in a fleshlight on a podium might work well at 4 am in a club but it probably wouldn’t work on the runway during fashion week.

What’s the secret to successful wig maintenance? Tucking? I buy new ones. When even careful brushing is useless, only backcombing can save you and after that it’s time to upgrade completely. And the secret to successful tucking? Tight underwear.

Have you ever hurt yourself during a performance? Yes. I decided I would dive into a plastic pint glass from a stool during one show and I ended up splitting open my chin. Another time I did a naked handstand and collapsed onto my nose. Both times I was drunk.

Was there a life lesson to be learned from being hospitalized after excessive partying? I’m sure there are a whole heap of lessons I should have learned but haven’t. Sometimes looking after yourself is easier said than done. It wasn’t so much a lesson, but a confirmation that your friends really are there for you.

How has hard drugs affected the gay scene? There are some nasty drugs out there right now, which are not fun. Lots of people like getting high. I was lucky enough to have experienced ecstasy (yes I did it to excess!) but what’s on offer now is crap by comparison and people are going to extreme lengths to get a decent buzz. They are risking their lives.

What is the state of British fashion- and gay style? I think London is currently the style capital of the world. British fashion is really strong, and has been for a long time. We’ll look back on this time and have very clear markers as to what was in fashion. There is an explosion of color and pattern, and men are having fun doing silly things with facial hair. Unfortunately attitude comes with it, and I think if you wear your clobber with the wrong attitude you look ridiculous. Just enjoy it. Fashion is a pretty foolish thing and should be enjoyed rather than suffered by either the wearer or the onlooker. I think gay guys are lagging behind in the fashion stakes right now. A gay bar or club is one of the worst places to see good men’s fashion at the moment. Especially after 3am when ALL the tops come off.

What are some of your must see places and things to do in London? The London Field’s Wild Flower Meadow was fabulous, I hope it returns next year with a different color palette (An urban Hackney meadow). I go to the theatre continuously, there is so much to see, and opera is my thing at the moment. I also love Spitalfields Market on a Thursday, if only to look around. Apparently sex alley is being demolished or at least erased at the bottom of Berwick Street. Loiter there now before Soho is totally sanitized!

Tell us about the kick-starter project Dressed as a Girl. My boyfriend Colin has been documenting the alt-drag scene in East London for four years. It’s how we met! He has loads of footage, and now we’re raising money to get the footage edited. Anyone can give money to it, and there are some treats if you give that little bit extra. I highly recommend that all your readers do so. Donate now and make some messy trannies very happy this Xmas!

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D E S I G N E R D a r r e n S p a z i a n i , L o u i s Vu i t t o n , B a l e n c i a g a , P r o u e n z a S c h o u l e r , R o k s a n d a I l l i n i c , L o u i s e G r a y, v i n t a g e O s c a r D e L a R e n t a .

I d o n ’t h a v e t h e m o n e y t o b u y m e n ’s d e s i g n e r, s o I d o n ’t l o o k a t i t .

BEAUTY PRODUCT Hot yoga – sweat it out.

MUSIC A RT I S T Bjork, Phillip Glass, Live opera SLEEPS IN Depends if the heating is working MORE jonnywoouk.com, Find Dressed As A Girl on Kickstarter.com

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NIGHTLIFE

R O O M S E RV I C E ( 1 2 - 1 3 G r e e k S t r e e t ) Drag queen Jodie Harsh´s club brand-night has cemented itself as S o h o ´ s h o t t e s t w e e k l y p a r t y. T h e s w e a t y a f f a i r f e a t u r e s s e x y h o u s e , a shirtless, pumped up clientel, go-go boys and porn star hosts.

SHADOW LOUNGE (5-7 Brewer Street, W1F 0RF) A f t e r a d e c a d e i n t h e s p o t l i g h t a s L o n d o n ’s p r e m i u m g a y m e m b e r s ’ club, Shadow Lounge is more swinging than ever. A cute crowd without attitude matches the opulent, recently refurbished decor.

F I R E ( A r c h 3 9 - 4 3 , P a r r y S t r e e t , S W 8 1 RT ) We ’ v e s p e n t c o u n t l e s s n i g h t s i n L o n d o n ’s b i g g e s t g a y c l u b , w i n n e r o f M i x m a g ’s B e s t C l u b 2 0 1 2 , w h e r e f o u r d a n c e f l o o r s , g r e a t l i g h t i n g and excellent electro house brings in the boys year after year.

BEYOND (67-68 Albert Embankment, SE1 7TP) M a g i c a l S u n d a y m o r n i n g s a r e c r e a t e d b y U K ’s l e a d i n g g a y c l u b b r a n d a t t h i s s u p e r- c l u b , w i t h t h r e e s p a t i o u s r o o m s a n d L o n d o n ’s most talented DJs and performers.

G . A . Y. / H E AV E N ( T h e A r c h e s , V i l l i e r s S t , W C 2 N 6 N G ) L o n d o n ’s b i g g e s t a n d o l d e s t c o m m e r c i a l g a y n i g h t , h a s m o v e d , f r o m its epic Soho location – where top music darlings like Kylie Minogue and Madonna regularly performed – to gay super club Heaven.

Lady Gaga recently joined the list of performers.

GUTTERSLUT (EC1V 1JN) The alternative to mainstream gay clubs is like a sexy melting pot and playground for freaks and geeks, transvestites, gays, and whatever. Fellow Swede, DJ Per QX, fuels the party with cutting edge sounds.

M I N I S T RY O F S O U N D ( 1 0 3 G a u n t S t r e e t , S E 1 6 D P ) Tr e n d y c l u b b e r s s n e e r a t M O S , b u t b e i n g a n i n t e r n a t i o n a l s u c c e s s has advantages, like being able to offer top DJ talent, innovative l i g h t i n g a n d q u a l i t y s o u n d s y s t e m s , c o n s i s t e n t l y.

FA B R I C ( 7 7 a C h a r t e r h o u s e S t r e e t , E C 1 M 6 H J ) Housed in a former meat market, and divided into three rooms, F a b r i c ’s r o u g h l o o k c r e a t e s a n i n t i m a t e a m b i e n c e t h a t g o e s w e l l withthe progressive music that really sets it apart from glossier gay clubs.

DSTRKT (9 Rupert Street, W1D 6DG) Vo t e d B e s t N e w L o n d o n R e s t a u r a n t a n d C l u b 2 0 1 2 i n t h e L o n d o n C l u b a n d B a r Aw a r d s , t h i s l a v i s h l y d e s i g n e d s p a c e c o m b i n e s r e s taurant, bar and club, has quickly become a favourite for Jay-Z, R i h a n n a , K a n y e We s t , G w y n e t h P a l t r o w, K i m K a r d a s h i a n a n d N i c o l e Scherzinger.

EDGE (11 Soho Square, W1D 3QE) Set on a corner of Soho Square, this unpretentious four-floor instit u t i o n i s a c a f é b y d a y, a n d b a r a n d c l u b b y n i g h t .

W BAR W Lounge and Wyld Bar at W Hotel Leicester Square (10 Wa r d o u r S t r e e t , W 1 D 6 Q F ) Oversized mirror disco balls and red mood lights set the tone at this swanky new bar overlooking the touristy Leicester Square.

THE GEORGE & DRAGON (2 Hackney Road, E2 7NS) This Shoreditch institution mixes traditional pub environment with kitschy hipster appeal, eclectic music mix and drag cabarets.

T H E B R I C K L AY E R ’ S A R M S ( 6 3 C h a r l o t t e R o a d , E C 2 A 3 P E ) S i m i l a r t o T h e G e o r g e & D r a g o n , T h e ” B r i c k l a y e r ’s ” c o m b i n e s r u s tic pub charm with a trendy multi-sexual, bohemian vibe.

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CULTURE & SIGHTSEEING

One tourist cliché is required per visit.

T H E V I C T O R I A A N D A L B E RT M U S E U M ( C r o m w e l l R d , L o n d o n S W 7 2 R L ) Va m . a c . u k T h e V i c t o r i a & A l b e r t M u s e u m , o r T h e V & A , a s i t ’s c o m m o n l y k n o w n , h a s breathtaking collections of everything from Islamic art to iconic clothing by V i v i e n n e We s t w o o d . I t ’s t h e w o r l d ’s l a r g e s t m u s e u m o f d e c o r a t i v e a r t s a n d d e sign, and houses a permanent collection of over 4.5 million objects. Founded in 1852 it was of course named after Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. One of the current exhibitions, “Pearls”, is a must-see - an extraordinary exposé on our fascination with jewels and precious stones through the ages. Until January 19th 2014.

THE BRITISH MUSEUM (Great Russell Street, WC1B 3DG) Britishmuseum. org The British Museum is regarded as one of the biggest and best museums in the w o r l d , a n d a t t r a c t s s i x m i l l i o n v i s i t o r s a n n u a l l y. E x h i b i t i o n h i g h l i g h t s a r e t h e Assyrian treasures, the Egyptian mummies and the spectacular Great Court.

T A T E M O D E R N ( B a n k s i d e , L o n d o n S E 1 9 T G ) Ta t e . o r g . u k H o u s e d i n a f o r m e r p o w e r s t a t i o n , Ta t e M o d e r n i s b o t h i m p o s i n g a n d i m p r e s sive even before you step foot inside. Since opening in 2000, TM has become o n e o f L o n d o n ’s l e a d i n g a t t r a c t i o n s t h a n k s t o h i g h - p r o f i l e e x h i b i t i o n s b y a r t i s t s s u c h a s A n d y Wa r h o l , J o s e p h B e u y s a n d F r i d a K a h l o .

SOMERSET HOUSE (The Strand, WC2R 1LA) Somersethouse.org.uk T h e h o m e t o L o n d o n F a s h i o n We e k i s h o u s e d i n t h i s l a r g e N e o c l a s s i c a l b u i l ding in central London and is a major arts and cultural centre. The current exhibition “Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore!” is an exuberant celebration to the t r a i l b l a z i n g f a s h i o n d i g n i t a r y. U n t i l M a r c h 2 n d 2 0 1 4 .

T H E N A T I O N A L G A L L E R Y ( Tr a f a l g a r S q u a r e , W C 2 N 5 D N ) N a t i o n a l g a l l e r y. org.uk The most famous, beautiful and challenging paintings in the world can be f o u n d h e r e . D i s c o v e r i n c r e d i b l e a r t b y L e o n a r d o d a Vi n c i , M i c h e l a n g e l o , Ti t i a n , R e m b r a n d t , Ve r m e e r , Tu r n e r , M o n e t a n d Va n G o g h – a n d b e i n s p i r e d !

S A A T C H I G A L L E R Y ( D u k e o f Yo r k ’ s H Q , K i n g ’ s R o a d , S W 3 4 R Y ) S a a t c h i g a l l e r y. c o m This contemporary art gallery has been a major influence on art in Britain s i n c e i t w a s o p e n e d b y C h a r l e s S a a t c h i i n 1 9 8 5 . I t ’s a l s o h a d i t s f a i r s h a r e o f m e d i a c o n t r o v e r s y.

S E R P E N T I N E G A L L E RY ( K e n s i n g t o n G a r d e n s , L o n d o n W 2 3 X A ) S e r p e n t i n e galleries.org T h e S e r p e n t i n e G a l l e r y i s o n e o f L o n d o n ’s m o s t p o p u l a r a r t g a l l e r i e s w i t h a focus on modern and contemporary art, beautifully located in Kensington Gardens, Hyde Park. Starchitect Zaha Hadid designed the brand new restaurant.

B U C K I N G H A M PA L A C E ( S W 1 A 1 A A ) R o y a l . g o v. u k Buckingham Palace has been the London home of the Royal Family since 1837, but it only opened its doors to the public in 1993. It contains treasures from the Royal Collection - paintings, sculptures and some of the best English and F r e n c h f u r n i t u r e i n t h e w o r l d . E n j o y a w a l k i n t h e P a l a c e ’s 3 9 - a c r e g a r d e n w i t h its superb views of the garden, front of the Palace and the 19th-century lake.

T H E T O W E R O F L O N D O N ( E C 3 N 4 A B ) H r p . o r g . u k / To w e r O f L o n d o n B u i l t i n 1 0 7 8 b y W i l l i a m t h e C o n q u e r o r , t h e To w e r o f L o n d o n i s t o d a y o n e o f the most famous buildings in the world. Here you can see the priceless Crown J e w e l s , t h e M e d i e v a l P a l a c e a n d t h e i n f a m o u s B l o o d y To w e r t o g e t h e r w i t h t h e ‘Beefeaters’.

THE LONDON EYE (EC3N 4AB) Londoneye.com A staggering 137 meters in height, this giant Ferris wheel on the South Bank of the River Thames gives a superb view of London. A turn is taken in one of t h e 3 2 c a p s u l e s ( e a c h c a p s u l e h o l d s 2 5 p e o p l e ) a n d l a s t s f o r 3 0 m i n u t e s . Yo u can also rent your very own capsule. A bottle of Pommery Brut Royal Champagne and a luxury chocolate box can be served by your own personal host.

From £350.00.

PA R K S G r e e n P a r k , b e t w e e n B u c k i n g h a m P a l a c e a n d P i c c a d i l l y, G r e e n w i c h P a r k , H y d e Park, Kensington Gardens and Regents Park with its Open Air Theatre offer boating lakes, golf courses, outdoor theatres or just relaxing on deck chairs.

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FOOD & DRINK

B A LT H A Z A R ( 4 - 6 R u s s e l l S t r e e t , W C 2 B 5 H Z ) I n t h e m i d d l e o f L o n d o n ’s t h e a t r e d i s t r i c t , t h i s e l e g a n t b i s t r o - s t y l e restaurant has long been the choice for both pre-and-post-theatre dinners. When we visit without a booking on a busy Friday night‚ the maître d magically presents a perfect table for us.

BISTRO BOHEME (13 Old Compton Street, W1D 5DJ) This Parisian bistro has been a casual water hole in the heart of Soho for more than two decades. Delicious drinks as well as rather delectable waiters.

SKETCH (9 Conduit Street,W1S 2XG) T h e s t y l i s h r e s t a u r a n t , b a r a n d g a l l e r y, h o u s e d i n a 1 8 t h c e n t u r y b u i l ding, has been a hot destination since 2002. Afternoon tea with a glass o f c h a m p a g n e i s a m u s t a n d d o n ’t m i s s t h e a l i e n b a t h r o o m p o d s .

L O C A N D A L O C AT E L L I ( 8 S e y m o u r S t r e e t , W 1 H 7 J Z ) O n e o f L o n d o n ’s f i n e s t I t a l i a n r e s t a u r a n t s o f f e r s r u s t i c r e g i o n a l f o o d with modern fine dining flair.

S H O R E D I T C H H O U S E ( E b o r S t r e e t , S h o r e d i t c h , E 1 6 AW ) Founded in 1995, as a private members’ club for those in film, media and creative industries, ”the House” is a great spot for a night out, whether you fancy a quiet dinner in the restaurant or a late night cocktail in the garden. Make sure to arrive with a member.

M R C H O W ( 1 5 1 K n i g h t s b r i d g e , S W I X 7 PA ) Far from Chinatown, this fine dining version of Chinese cuisine offers updated dishes for upscale diners in a discreet environment.

N O . 2 0 ( 2 0 Wa r w i c k S t r e e t , S o h o , W 1 B 5 N F ) Conveniantly located on the ground floor of the swanky Sanctum Soho Hotel, No.20 is a both a glamorous restaurant and bar, owned by exband manager Mark Fuller (which may explain the noise level).

B A R I TA L I A ( 2 2 F r i t h S t r e e t , W 1 D 4 R F ) This tiny Soho café chaotic, charming, and possibly serves the best coffee north of Milan.

WHERE TO STAY

S T PA N C R A S R E N A I S S A N C E H O T E L M a r r i o t t . c o m The St Pancras Renaissance is a London icon. Behind the red façade is a 5-star hotel that fuses Victorian splendor with contemporary style and service.

R AT H B O N E ( 3 0 R a t h b o n e S t r e e t , We s t E n d , W 1 T 1 L B ) R a t h b o n e h o t e l . co.uk The Rathbone is a basic, comfortable and intimate luxury hotel, located o f f C h a r l o t t e S t r e e t w i t h i n t h e h e a r t o f L o n d o n ’s We s t E n d , i n a l o c a l e charmingly referred to as NOHO. W L o n d o n ( 1 0 Wa r d o u r S t r e e t , L e i c e s t e r S q u a r e ) W l o n d o n . c o . u k Like a shiny disco ball right in the heart of theatreland, the 5-star W London Hotel offers 197 luxury bedrooms, most with floor-to-ceiling windows, just meters from lively Chinatown and Soho.

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NIK THAKKAR

AGE 27 FA S H I O N D E S I G N E R K a r l L a g e r f e l d B E A U T Y P R O D U C T A n y t h i n g b y To m F o r d – I l o v e t h e n e w s k i n c a r e and grooming range M U S I C A RT I S T A n t o n y a n d t h e J o h n s o n s ( a n d m y g i r l N a t a l i a K i l l s ) S L E E P S I N To m F o r d To b a c c o V a n i l l e F A M I LY P a r e n t s , a n d b r o t h e r , w h o i s a l s o m y b e s t f r i e n d a n d c o l l a b o r a t o r WEB SITE karlismyunkle.com obviously!

MORE @nikthakkar @adaxnik

What has been the main driving force in your career? It would have to be creativity. I’ve always created and made art, right back to when I was a kid. A lot of it was pretty terrible. When I lived in Barcelona, I used to make “obras de mierda”, which literally means “trash (or shit) art”, from street posters by re-working them on to canvases using anything I could find in the street. It was budget art at its finest!

Things have evolved a lot since then, and my vision has become more refined. My personal aesthetic and that of my menswear brand Ada + Nik is a noir, minimalist, timeless luxury.

Do your parents understand what you do? They do now! It took a while, especially as I was a law graduate although I never actually became a lawyer. They read my interviews and have a solid understanding of what Ada + Nik is as a brand, as well as the creative projects that I work on outside of it.

Do you ever just switch off? If so, how? It sounds really lame, but going to the gym is my downtime. I still check emails while training, but it’s my chance to listen to pop music and push metal around. It’s super therapeutic and keeps me in zen. I occasionally like swimming and meditation too. My definition of downtime isn’t really switching off, though. I still freak out when I’m on a yacht in the Med and have no Wi-Fi! I’m really hands on, so it’s hard to completely switch off. Maybe things will change in the future!

What has been your most valuable skill or character trait in your professional life? The ability to charm the pants off of anyone with my intelligence, obviously.

Would you say that you’re an exhibitionist? Life is too short to be a complete prude. I’m comfortable with my sexuality and with being a sexual creature, and I’m not totally uninhibited. At the same time, being able to compliment this with creative and business smarts, and using it in a way to express my artistic vision is the most important thing to me.

What were the biggest challenges with starting your own label? What can we expect for next season? Ada Zanditon (my design partner) and I have known each other for four years. We met at Paris Fashion Week in 2010 and clicked immediately. I’d never have guessed that we’d be where we are now, when we were at some karaoke bar in Le Marais. From a design standpoint, I was immediately drawn to her technical construction and noir aesthetic. We were at dinner in January this year and I asked Ada, “When are you going to do menswear?” She looked right into my eyes and gave a completely deadpan reply - “When you do it with me”. That night I went home and created a set of mood boards, a brand vision of what our lovechild would look like and where it would fit in. The rest is history. It wasn’t so much a challenge; it felt like the most natural thing to do, drawing on my experience from six years with other brands. Next season is themed around the personality of “The Dark Wolf”. We’re showing officially at London Collections: Men in January 2014, which is our first full-blown catwalk show, event and collection. We’re working with several major brands including Philips, Samsung and Snow Queen Vodka to bring our creative vision to life through film, tech and creative content. I have literally never been so excited.

How do you approach the anti-fur issue? I don’t have a stance on this either way. As a brand, we don’t use fur – only ethically sourced shearling - but I won’t comment on other people’s personal choices.

How do you feel about labels like Tom Ford making private shows, sans photographers, live streaming and bloggers? Social media has changed how luxury brands can actually function viably within the official fashion week structure. Either you put everything out there immediately, or hold it back. I understand why Tom Ford held capsule shows with limited PR. It makes total sense, especially as it was for his big womenswear comeback. Burberry, on the other hand, uses it as a data-mining opportunity. The way I see it is that we must ensure that we release consistent content from the brand throughout the season to maintain that level of interest. It’s exciting being a part of something that is evolving so quickly.

Are there any risks involved with designers and brands giving young fashion bloggers a lot of positive attention? Absolutely not. I’m the sort of person that respects credibility over numbers. As long as their content and vision is in line with yours, then they should absolutely be embraced!

Is there a risk that designers will spread themselves too thin by being featured in a lot of brand collaborations? Again, this is a tenuous area but from a consumer standpoint, credibility is key, so collaborations for the sake of collaborations are in essence over – or at least not taken seriously. If the two brands, or the individual and the brand, are a good fit and the scalability is right, then it should be embraced.

What is the state of British fashion in general, and secondly, the British gay guys? I’m really proud that we show Ada + Nik in London.

It’s the city I grew up in and a city that we’ve drawn a lot of creative heritage from to bring our vision to life. From a trend standpoint, we’ve always been pioneers, and Ada and I are continuing to build on that. And the gays, well, as with any major city you always get the good with the bad (laugh). Let’s just say that there are things that I would change. I have really high standards and expectations, and I think that can sometimes make things tougher than you realize.

Have you attended Swedish Fashion Week, and do you have any thoughts on Swedish style? I haven’t attended, but I did work on a project with Bjorn Borg for a few months which meant I was in Stockholm about six times during that period. I am absolutely in love with Swedish culture and style.

What are some of your must-see places and things to do in London? I’m the sort of guy that likes to hang out with good friends in hotel lobbies, so I’ve been doing that a lot. The Edition is one of my favorites as is the Bulgari Hotel, but it’s also great to head out to something a bit gritty and underground, like my friend Jodie Harsh’s club night, Room Service.

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N i k m o d e l i n g i n t h e J P G AW 1 3 - 1 4 m e n ’s w e a r d i g i t a l c a m p a i g n .

Menswear brand Ada + Nik. Photo by MatthewJAPayne

THE ”CONTEMPORARY RENAISSANCE MAN” NIK THAKKAR LIVES HIS BRAND ON A GLOBAL MULTIMEDIA SCALE, AS BLOGGER, DESIGNER, CREATIVE AND – ABOVE ALL – ALL- ROUND IT BOY dorianmagazine.com

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––– AFTER 76 YEARS OF DISUSE, THE ST PANCRAS HOTEL HAS BEEN RESTORED TO FORMER FAIRYTALE GLORY –––

SLEEPING BEAUTY

Many rooms have a view of the train platform.

St Pancras train station was designed by William Barlow in 1863. The famous train shed arch was the largest enclosed space in the world in 1868.

The church-like roof of the grand staircase.

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Up until the 90s, the neglected King’s Cross area of London attracted attention for all the wrong reasons. But like everything in life, times – and opinions – change. Kings Cross has begun to regain its appeal, demonstrated by the recent move to the area of the Central Saint Martins fashion college. The reopened St Pancras Hotel is the jewel in this busy crown.

Designed by the “starchitect” of the time, George Gilbert Scott, as a grand railway hotel, the epic building that opened its doors in 1873 is a testament to his signature over-the-top style: gothic revival with monumental proportions, high ceilings, expansive windows, ornate moldings and details, and bold wallpaper prints and colors.

Tragically, the golden age of the palatial railway hotel came to an end in 1935, just 62 years after the hotel’s grand opening.

Despite modern comforts like elevators, the lack of ensuite bathrooms became the last straw.

It was converted into an office building for a while but then sadly was left vacant for a long period of time, the threat of demolition hanging over it. When the building – described by many as the most romantic building in London – was finally saved after extensive interventions and campaigns by both professionals and the public, 76 long years had passed.

In 2011, 138 years to the day of its original and glamorous opening to an awestruck public, the stunning St Pancras hotel reopened. 245 deluxe bedrooms and 38 suites had been restored to their grandiose, original 1870’s style, but also updated with luxurious finishes and fine contemporary furnishings.

Two charming bars, a beauty salon, a restaurant and, in the basement, a swimming pool and spa were added to satisfy the needs of modern discerning travellers.

However, recreating the romance, grandeur and style of an original Victorian railway hotel comes at a price – in this case, an eye-watering £200m. To aid this ambitious project, the upper levels of the original building were redeveloped into luxurious private apartments, providing necessary funds to assist the decade-long transformation.

The imposing red brick fairytale façade of the grade 1 listed building – one of London’s most iconic Victorian landmarks – is visible from miles away. We are thrilled to check in in the cavernous glazed entrance hall, where horse-drawn carriages once brought the Victorian high society.

After settling in, we explore the luxurious labyrinth of halls and richly decorated corridors. Many unique features of the original hotel remain, including gold leaf ceilings, which are exquisite.

The extraordinary three-story grand

travel

staircase, with a cathedral-like ceiling above, has been named Europe’s Grandest Staircase. We can see why.

After checking out the hotel’s barber shop, we order a strong aperetivo in the relaxed Chambers Club, a lounge where VIP guests enjoy complimentary food and drinks.

We’re eager to enjoy the offerings of celebrity chef Marcus Wareing’s in the dinner restaurant, a former ticket office which these days plays home to the sprawling Gilbert Scott Brasserie and Bar. We begin with the signature drink – a tasting tray of traditional punches which definitely pack a punch – and then feast on the finest regional British gourmet cuisine and French wine. The service and the meal are immaculate.

The inspiring movie-set ambiance has been seen in Harry Potter, Spice World (the girl band, rather than something cookery-themed) and Batman Returns, to name but a few.

Our luxurious, 43-square-meter Junior suite welcomes us with dark wood, marble finishes, a 37-inch flatscreen TV and a Bose radio. Meanwhile, the ceiling height adds a monastic feel. We find robes, slippers and REN beauty products in the large tiled bathroom before 300-threadcount Egyptian cotton linens help us fall asleep in comfort, dreaming of being railway tycoons in a Victorian age.

›

T h e M i d l a n d G r a n d H o t e l i n i t s h e y d e y.

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Junior suites are individually designed with period details and modern comforts like king-size bed with 300-thread-count Egyptian luxe linens.

DORIAN lifestyle

Victorian and contemporary punches, served in hand-made copper punch bowls, is the signature drink in the 29-meter-long bar.

S T. PA N C R A S RENAISSANCE LONDON HOTEL Euston Road 路 London, England NW1 2QR United Kingdom From $376, Marriott.com

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art

Where taxis once rolled up with h o t e l g u e s t s , n o w s t a n d s L o n d o n ’s m o s t s p e c t a c u l a r l o b b y.

The extraordinary double staircase is a fantastic example of high-Victorian, gothic decoration. The balustrading, in wrought iron, contains original gas fittings and snakes three stories up to a vaulted ceiling, the most obvious suggestion o f S c o t t ’s r e p u t a t i o n a s t h e m o s t eminent ecclesiastical architect of the age.

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culture

One of this year’s most acclaimed Swedish film debuts is Återträffen (The Reunion) directed by and starring renowned contemporary artist Anna Odell. It tells with brutal realism of the dangers of confronting ones demons – in this case, bullies. The leitmotif, The War Is Over, just oozes sleeper-hit potential, and is performed

by SISTER, a new duo fronted by besties Giovanni and Aleksandar

SISTER ACT – BROTHERLY LOVE

NAME Aleksandar Maksic AGE Old R E L AT I O N S H I P S i n g l e FAV O R I T E D E S I G N E R Ve r s a c e S L E E P I N G I N Ve r s a c e u n d e r w e a r R O L E M O D E L N i k o ( Ve l v e t U n d e r g r o u n d ) NAME Giovanni Bucchieri AGE Old R E L AT I O N S H I P D i a n a O r v i n g FAV O R I T E D E S I G N E R D i a n a O r v i n g ( e s t a b l i s h e d w o m e n s w e a r d e s i g n e r ) SLEEPING INLanvin pajamas ROLE MODEL Malcolm McLaren Sistermusic.se

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The duo became best friends aged 15, as students at the Ballet Academy of the Opera of Stockholm. They quickly bonded over shared experiences, both being first generation Swedes from challenging backgrounds (Aleksandar was raised in a troubled Stockholm suburb, while Giovanni had a domineering Catholic father).

The friends escaped their painful memories of small-town narrow-mindedness by immersing themselves in New York’s liberating, frantic clubs, leading to their love affair with subcultures and Vogueing.

They went on to establish themselves on the 90s dance scene at the Royal Swedish Ballet at the Royal Opera House, the world famous Cullberg Ballet, the 59° North Dance Company and on world tours.

The group came about after the duo met the composer and producer, Stefan Levin, while working at the Royal Opera in Stockholm. Inspiration was drawn from legends such as Kate Bush and Malcolm McLaren, both strong musical and visual influences. The striking video for The War Is Over combines the drama of a children’s choir with brooding beats, contrasted by Giovanni sashaying like a Vogue queen and Aleksandar delivering a macho, stoic performance in the vein of a robo-gigolo.

Sister are currently recording their debut album, for release in early 2014.

Tell us about the origins of Sister’s name.

– What brings us together is our background. We don’t have much contact with our biological families, so we created our own after moving in together at 15. We really love each other, but we see ourselves as both five-year old girls and macho men at the same time; we like the contrast to the very macho upbringing we experienced. We are close, but at the same time, we are also extremely different. Aleksandar is like a Polish prince – the strong, silent type, while Giovanni is an extremely outgoing busybody. We also think the name - Sister – is beautiful in itself.

Can you describe your music for us?

–Our music is full of sadness and drama, just like life itself. But there is also hope and consolation. Music has always been a big consolation in our lives, and now that we’re able to create music, it is even

more so.

You are both dancers. Has this influenced your music?

–A LOT! We’ve followed all the great composers since childhood, as breakdancers, mimicking Michael Jackson in front of the mirror. Dance was our escape to a better place.

How did the opportunity to create music for the film arise?

–Through our demon producer, who we met while working at the Royal Opera.

He was making the music for a ballet I was choreographing – Come You Daughters – about my childhood in Linköping. He had worked with the director Anna Odell for her graduation exhibition at Konstfack (University College of Arts, Crafts and Design).

What does your feminine-masculine personas in the video represent?

–These are our real roles! We went to New York at 16 and were very influenced by hip hop and the underground gay scene, but nowadays we’ve lost interest in hip hop – it’s too straight, with too many codes and stereotypes. Our artistic “alter egos” also represent who you aspired to be, and sometimes thought you were growing up – like hearing Madonna’s ‘Justify My Love’ for the first time and dancing around in our undies.

You are straight yet your image is very sexually ambiguous.

–We’ve always felt more at home in the gay world! Maybe it’s because we felt like the underdogs; in the same way that gay people have to come out, we have also made the same journey but in a totally different way. If anyone thinks we are gay then we are proud. Heteronormativity is such a bore. We are gay heteros.

What are the gayest things you’ve done?

– There’s so many gay things we have done. This summer I (Giovanni) performed at The Gay Dance Festival on Fire Island! Can you be gayer than that? I was probably the only straight guy on the whole island – which really was on fire!

I didn’t allow my girlfriend to join me at first! (laugh) Tell me about the EP. Will you be singing?

–Although it feels like Sister has been around forever, it’s only recently that we’ve been ready to act on it. With act one, the ballet “Come you Daughters” at the Swedish Royal Opera, we took pop

DORIAN

music

into the opera world. Now it’s time for act two - taking opera into the pop world – operatic drama, rather than singing.

We describe it as Berghain (iconic Berlin club) meets Bach. We sing more and more ourselves. And we expectour EP to be out in February next year!

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culture

THE CONTROVERSIAL JAMES FRANCO MOVIE INTERIOR. LEATHER BAR IS INSPIRED BY THE SEXUALLY EXPLICIT CRUISING STARRING AL PACINO

JAMES FRANCO James Franco has become multi-faceted in his endeavours as a student, artist, writer, director and actor. He has earned accolades for his performances in James Dean, Milk and 127 Hours and also starred in Rise of the Planet o f t h e A p e s a n d t h e S p i d e r - M a n t r i l o g y. A d d i t i o n a l l y, F r a n c o w r o t e & d i r e c t e d T h e B r o k e n To w e r a n d d i r e c t e d S a l a n d S a t u r d a y N i g h t . C o m i n g u p f o r James is Child of God and As I Lay Dying, which he co-wrote, directed and s t a r r e d i n a s w e l l a s G a r y F l e d e r ’s H o m e f r o n t , w r i t t e n b y S y l v e s t e r S t a l l o n e and starring Jason Statham and Winona Ryder.

T R AV I S M AT H E W S Tr a v i s M a t h e w s i s a n a w a r d - w i n n i n g f i l m m a k e r w h o s e m o v i e s f o c u s o n g a y m e n a n d i n t i m a c y. I n f o r m e d w i t h a M a s t e r s i n C o u n s e l l i n g P s y c h o l o g y a n d a b a c k g r o u n d i n d o c u m e n t a r y , Tr a v i s t a k e s a t h o u g h t f u l a n d n a t u r a l i s t i c a p proach to filmmaking while maintaining a sense of humour in his work. The s e c o n d f e a t u r e f i l m f r o m w r i t e r / d i r e c t o r Tr a v i s M a t h e w s ( I W a n t Y o u r L o v e ) , Interior. Leather Bar has been hailed as ”a fascinating and intriguing film that never takes any simple options and works well in terms of raising provocative issues.” (Screen Daily).

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Interior. Leather Bar. is available on DVD from 9th December 2013 Peccapics.co.uk

in order to avoid an X rating, 40 minutes of gay S&M footage was rumoured to be cut and destroyed from William Friedkin’s famed 1980 film, Cruising starring Al Pacino. Inspired by the mythology of this controversial film, filmmakers James Franco and Travis Mathews joined forces to imagine their own lost footage in Interior.

Leather Bar. The film challenges convention and easy categorisation, structed as a play as much as a film about filmmaking and the exploration of sexual and creative freedom Amid the backdrop of a frenzied film set, actor Val Lauren reluctantly agrees to take the lead in the film. Val is repeatedly forced to negotiate his boundaries during scenes on and ”off-camera” as unsimulated gay sex happens around him.

T R AV I S M AT H E W S I N T E R V I E W

How did you get involved with James Franco and this project? Travis Mathews: Early in the summer of 2012 my first feature, I Want Your Love, was playing film festivals and getting some attention because of the way I wove unsimulated gay sex into the story. This was happening around the same time James was interested in doing a project that revisited William Friedkin’s Cruising. It wasn’t going to be a remake, but more of a nod, using it as a jumping off place.

What do you find most compelling about Cruising? One of the things about Cruising that we found most interesting as a starting point was how William Friedkin had been rumored to shave off 40 minutes of footage from the original cut in order to avoid an X rating. Those 40 minutes have supposedly been destroyed, but whether that’s true or not, they’ve never been screened publicly. So, what if James and I were reimagining the 40 minutes that were lost from Cruising? Hmm...And so we started from there. I was still holding onto all of these meta ideas that I thought

were important for us to hit head-on. Ultimately, we felt it made sense to shape this as more about the production and the making of this film, because it allowed us the necessary freedom to confront these ideas around James and to also create a story arc with the actor Val Lauren, that paralleled Cruising in unexpected ways.

How did you find the actors for the film?

I found them a couple of different ways.

One of the actors, Brenden Gregory, worked with me on the short version of I Want Your Love in 2010. I knew he was living in LA and I wanted the chance to work with him again. So I contacted him, and he and his real-life boyfriend, Bradley Roberge, got on board. Brenden was reluctant to do this initially, because he wants to be taken seriously as an actor and he didn’t want to do another film where he was going to have to take his clothes off. We shelved this conversation, knowing we needed to have it, and waited until the day of production to talk about these issues. This was another of those aspects of the film that’s both real, but also sort of staged. We were filmed working through his reservations, and it made it into the first cut of the film, but now it’s the domain of DVD extras.

We also had a casting call at Playhouse West, where James first started acting. I’d never done a casting call like this before -- I had done auditions, but not an actual casting call. The only thing that the guys who showed up knew was that it was a James Franco project involving a gay bar scene. There were probably 50 guys who showed up, and they all sat in these theatre seats, as Iris Torres, one of the producers, gave me the floor to talk about this project. Once I got into the specifics, a good third of the men left the room. I asked the remaining guys to pick one of four groups in different parts of the room. The groups ranged from ”I’m up for anything, I’ll do whatever” to a group where the guys were only as comfortable as taking off their shirt, but not actually touching, kissing, or dancing with anybody. I could see a lot of these guys doing some quick internal processing about what they might be getting into and what it all meant. To be honest, I was pretty surprised at how weirded out many of them were.

What about Val Lauren? How did he become a part of the project? Val, who plays the lead, is an old friend of James’. They worked together at Playhouse, and James

culture

had asked me what I thought of Val playing what would ostensibly be some version of the character Al Pacino based his performance off of - I say that, but Val’s performance is more than pantomime, he’s doing his own thing.

What were some of the ways you referenced Cruising in the film? One of the things I knew about Cruising was its history as a lightning rod for a lot of people, and it still is, for its representation of gay people. I had rewatched Cruising just a few months before James contacted me, and then I watched it again immediately after that. I still think if you just look at those gay bar scenes alone -- forget the murder stuff, even forget Pacino for the most part -- it really is an interesting and important document of NYC gay, leather subculture right on the brink of AIDS. A lot of that comes through because, according to reports from people who were on the set for the bar scenes, Friedkin encouraged the extras to treat the space, which was a real gay S&M bar, as if it were any old night. So people were drinking, people were smoking, people were smoking weed, doing poppers, and by a lot of reports, there was real sex happening. I think that’s why those scenes have a documentary feel to them.

How did you film the sex scenes? You know, I never sought out to be known for my sex scenes. It may seem like it’s been strategic, but it all just kind of happened this way. I’ve been consistently interested in telling stories that I wasn’t seeing on screen, ones that felt honest, intimate, and raw in different ways...that interest dovetailed into sex at a certain point.

There are so many different stories that can be told through the way somebody has sex. You have so many different rides you go on -- for a moment it’s playful, and it’s super fun, and it’s hot, and then it’s like you’re taking a break, or maybe you’re feeling insecure. There are a lot of underutilized ways to explore character and story through sex.

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people

––––– ONE YOUNG SWEDISH LLABEL CHALLENGES THE MENSWEAR CONVENTION WITH A BOLD TAKE ON PREPPY –––––

Swedes have an ongoing love affair with the understated and conservative.

Fortunately, every action has a reaction.

By combining simplicity with timeless elegance and adding a lot of contemporary flair, Swedish brand John Henric, has just in a few years, become a fashion force to be reckoned with. Focusing on dress shirts and men’s accessories, the competitive edge comes from a unique manufacturing and distributing model, that offers affordable, dressed quality fashion, to people who are confident enough to be sophisticated, yet curious enough to be fashionable.

I attending John Henric’s flagship store opening, in Stockholm’s most upscale city center galleria. I was intrigued and arranged a cocktail with co owner and co founder John Ekström.

Where does the name come from? It’s one of the founders’ nickname.

How did it all start? Nicklas Nordbergh and I founded John Henric in November 2008. We were studying economics at the University of Lund, Sweden, where we met and became friends. While still studying, we detected a market need for luxurious men’s accessories and developed a business plan and worked with focus groups. We then ended our studies to launch John Henric.

How does John Henric differ from other fashion brands? Our concept is to have Europe’s biggest offer of men’s accessories, shirts and sweaters, in cotton and cashmere. Most other fashion brands’ concept is built around full range collections. We are specialized in certain product ranges, we are niched and we want to be best at this.

What’s the company’s philosophy? Who is your client? Self-confidence and passion for business is our brand and corporate philosophy. Our clients are fashion conscious men who want to be dressed well 24/7. It’s somebody who has clear goals and “goes and gets it”!

Tell me about your personal background(s). I am born in 1982 in the beautiful Southern part of Sweden called Österlen. I have a business degree in management/marketing and a passion for suits, interior design and accessories.

John Henric is growing rapidly, are you not afraid to growing to fast? It’s true, but so far all investments are made with low risk, because our business plan is very unique and profitable. We try to analyze every new shop that we want to open and make the right calculations. Once we go international, the risk will increase, of course.

How do you maintain your high quality and staying true to your philosophy if you really take off? We are the only accessory brand in Scandinavia that designs, produces and sells their collection to the end-consumers without middle hands.

That’s why we can maintain a great quality often made in Italy to a midprice. It makes us unique and we have no problem to manage if the prices go up in production because we control our own destiny.

Where do you retail at the moment?

We have John Henric flagship stores in Stockholm (Sturegallerian), Täby Centrum, NK Gothenburg and two in Malmö, as well as a web store. You can find us at about 40 multi-brand stores all over Sweden, such as Johnells stores, Equip and Twins. We also have an additional of 50 multibrand stores who carry John Henric in Scandinavia, excluding Sweden.

What would you say about Swedish mens’ dress sense? Swedish men generally dress well in a rather clean style. Sometimes, it’s quite uniform and we like to add some spice to it with our collection. For example, the elegance of British Gentlemen or the colorful personality of Italian Gentlemen.

We also want to educate the customer about different fabrics and give them a good price option to stop buying polyester and made in Asia products.

What does style mean to you? Style for me

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is a balance between clothes, personality and looks. It can be trendy and it can be also completely timeless. I always enjoy watching men with style at Pitti Uomo in Florence. It’s a true injection of style!

How would you describe the John Henric lifestyle? That’s a good question. We see John Henric as the new kind of menswear brand, as we do not promote a specific lifestyle. For instance, Gant promotes the American East coast. Our stores are all white with minimal design and a touch of classic men’s outfitter, to highlight the product. This way, we are very openminded and welcoming customers with different lifestyles.

Would you say that John Henric is a “gay friendly” brand? From the start, we have had many gay customers. I think gay men often have a more sensitive eye for design, colors and luxurious fabrics.

Can you see any difference in what gay and straight customers buy from your collections? Gay customers often are more fashion forward. They detect the latest international trends and find matching pieces in our collections. They dress up more, and like to show more personality and stick out with the way they dress.

You carry accessories, shirts and pullovers right now, will You add to the product range? At the moment we are working hard with developing gloves and bracelets.

We are also working in new materials and fabrics to develop our current collection.

Where will the brand be in five years? Our goal in five year is to have 8-15 flagship stores in the largest international capital cities, and airports.

Johnhenric.com

CHANGER

GAME

w o r d s b e n j a m i n fa l k

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A statuesque physique is Todd Sanfield’s modeling trademark.

With his underwear brand and an imminent medical career to add to his credit list, it’s clear that brains and brawn really do go together.

THE DOCTOR IS IN

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The Latin proverb mens sana in corpore sano - a healthy mind in a healthy body - is epitomized by the Detroit-born model, who began lifting weights at a young age. After his mother persuaded him to try modeling, he reached out to New York agency IMG, who returned his call within an hour. Since then, he’s established a solid gay following with a number of bold covers for magazines like Australian DNA and French Têtu.

When not working as a sought after underwear model, Todd picks and chooses between shoots. But there’s more than just exercise, eating and sleeping on his horizon.

A genuine passion for the human body has led him on a new life quest, resulting in four solid years of pharmacy school and a new role - a Pharmacist, specializing in HIV and AIDS. While studying to receive his doctorate in pharmaceutical medicine, this genetically-blessed multi-tasker also found the time to launch an eponymous casual and comfortable underwear line, for which he does all the designs and, naturally, modeling.

Did your modeling career focus on fitness modeling, or did you also do fashion? And what has been the most important job? I wouldn’t necessarily consider myself a fitness or fashion model. I can take a picture whether you put me in clothes or put a dumbbell in my hand. The jobs that have had the most impact on my modeling career are the DNA magazine covers and my coffee-table book, MOTEL | HOTEL, which has sold out at over 1,000 copies! I’m currently working on a second book.

We see you frequently in Rick Day editorials. What’s the best thing about him as a photographer? It’s always fun shooting with Rick. As a model you feel comfortable with him; he shoots a significant amount of guys with a similar personality to mine, so he has the experience to connect with models.

Are you naturally comfortable with nudity or is it more of a professional requirement?

Yes, I’m comfortable with nudity. I’ve been running around half-naked since I was a kid.

You’ve got a large following. Have they ever gone too far in their appreciation? To be honest, people are generally pretty cool and respectful but once in a while I’ll get an ignorant message from someone that is out of line.

What is your personal style? And do you have any favorite designers? I’m not sure of my personal style at the moment. For the last three years or so, I’ve hidden away from everything in a city in Michigan. All I did was study, sleep, eat, and lift weights. When I do get a chance to go out, American Apparel deep V-necks are definitely a staple, along with a nice pair of jeans. I also love sneakers!

FOR THE LAST THREE YEARS OR SO, I’VE HIDDEN AWAY FROM EVERYTHING IN A CITY IN MICHIGAN. ALL I DID WAS STUDY, SLEEP, EAT, AND LIFT WEIGHTS

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Is it possible to be large AND to be ripped in the long-term? Sure. I think the key is persistence and consistency. You can’t do it overnight, but over the years the size you put on will stay on. That muscle you build up starts to resemble bone; it’s not going to go away unless you stop exercising. In fact, some of the best bodies I’ve ever seen are on men in their fifties.

Give us a rough idea of how much you eat when bulking up, and when you’re getting ripped for a shoot? When bulking I consume a significant amount of food, probably in the range of 5,000 to 6,000 calories per day. When leaning out, my calories range from 2,000 to 3,000, eventually keeping them at 2,000 per day for a week or two prior to the shoot. For both bulking and leaning, I always keep my protein at 1.5 grams per pound of body weight.

Gay guys are often perceived as size queens, would you agree? Are there any negatives to this? I would agree 100%.

The bigger, the better! The only time it becomes a negative is when your ego gets in the way. Sometimes people make poor lifestyle choices to obtain their size, which ultimately can lead to physiological complications.

What’s been the biggest challenge in the process of building your underwear brand? And what is the future of the brand? A month after starting the line I was accepted into pharmacy school.

Since then, the line has been a secondary priority; my parents always taught me that school comes first. However my school schedule has cleared up recently and so for the first time, I can put more effort into the brand. I can honestly say, I don’t know what the future holds for the brand, but I’m really excited to see how things unfold.

Was it difficult getting back into an academic mindset when enrolling in Pharmacy school? I am a science geek and love learning new things so I think the hardest part for me was getting into the program. After graduating from Michigan State University, I moved to NYC for two years to essentially see the world. When I moved back to Detroit to pursue pharmacy, I was rusty, I needed to retake classes in addition to the new classes.

You’ll specialize in HIV/AIDS. Does this choice have any special significance for you? I’d like to specialize and practice as an HIV pharmacist, but only time will dictate where I end up. The reason I chose to focus on HIV medicine is because I feel it’s the area where I can make the biggest contribution. At school, I ex-

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perienced a patient population from an urban area that faced patient and system related disadvantages, which also reflects the majority of HIV-infected patients worldwide. In addition, there is still a great deal of discrimination and stigma that comes with being infected by the virus. I have a good reputation and it will continue to grow, so I need to use it to help make a change.

How do you feel about marriage equality and do you think you will ever get married? I was raised as liberal as they come.

Therefore, marriage equality is a non-debatable issue in my eyes. And married?

C’mon now, I have a good fifteen years before I have to think about this question (laugh).

What’s the best thing about living in Detroit as opposed to New York? I live in metropolitan Detroit and love it here, but that’s most likely due to the relationship I have with my parents and sister.

The restaurants in NYC are by far the best part about that city. I love to eat good food and drink good wine!

ToddSanfield.com

TODD SANFIELD designer

Acne, Black Denim and Rick Owens.

Victor & Rolf Spicebomb

fragrance

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photos kevin mcdermott

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THERE IS STILL A GREAT DEAL OF DISCRIMINATION AND STIGMA THAT COMES WITH BEING INFECTED

BY THE VIRUS. I HAVE A GOOD REPUTATION AND IT WILL CONTINUE TO GROW, SO I NEED TO USE IT TO HELP MAKE A CHANGE todd on his career choice

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promotion

FANFARE

CELEBRITY

E u r o p e ’s ” T h e F i n a l C o u n t d o w n ” (1986) album cover was created by Lez Catz and inspired by science fiction movies from the eighties. The motif on the guitar is from the back cover of the album: The beautiful sunset set in a triangle out in space, like a portal to another dimention.

Special Limited Edition produced for E u r o p e 3 0 t h A n n i v e r s a r y, a i r b r u s h e d

by Lazy Joe, Gibson/Epiphone (Studio Les Paul Model), signed by all band members of Europe

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STOCKHOLMS AUKTIONSVERK is a leading Nordic marketplace for art, crafts and antiques from a variety of ages and epochs. The Company was founded in 1674. As such, we are the oldest auction house in t h e w o r l d s t i l l o p e r a t i n g t o d a y. W e operate our business in Stockholm from two addresses: Stockholms Auktionsverk at Nybrogatan 32 in Östermalm, where we hold our large quality and special auctions, and Stadsauktion at Magasin 5 in Frihamnen, where, we have our online auctions. Auktionsverket.se, Stadsauktion.se

Stockholms Auktionsverk is the first Swedish auction house to launch a special Pop & Rock auction dedicated solely to music and memorabilia.

Over the years, auction houses have witnessed many historical moments involving memorabilia once owned or played on by some of the greatest legends in music, from ABBA to the Beatles, the Who, U2, Madonna and the Rolling Stones. In autumn 2013 a collection of 25,000 items of ABBA memorabilia was sold in the largest auction ever of its kind. The ABBA auction received months of media coverage in countries including India, Thailand, Uruguay, Mexico, Ukraine, USA, Germany, France and many, many more. This was the most high-profile auction ever held in Sweden both nationally and internationally and attracted massive TV, radio and press coverage.

There is no doubt that these types of collectors’ items generate great interest. Music has shaped the lives of those who live in the 21st century and is associated with many childhood memories – people often collect memorabilia for reasons of nostalgia.

Celebrities are defined by the music they make and every memorable object represents a small fragment of a period in their careers. Popular culture is a category that ranges from autographs and awards to texts, clothing and instruments, props and posters. Such items have delighted generations and helped build an international market that is driven by passion. This is why Stockholms Auktionsverk, as part of a series of popular special auctions, is launching Pop & Rock in spring 2014. Follow us on Facebook and Instagram to stay updated.

A plexi case autographed by Marianne Faithful, Suzi Quatro, Rickie Lee Jones, Belinda Carlisle, Patti S m i t h , N i n a H a g e n , Yo k o O n o a n d Joan Baez Michael Jackson concert jacket from the BAD tour, Gothenborg, 1988

Celebrity memorabilia auctions have become “a thing” in recent years. Princess Diana’s iconic dress, worn shimmying it up with John Travolta, recently fetched a whopping $400000 and Michael Jackson’s statement Thriller jacket a cool $1,8, which only goes to show that when it comes to owning a cherished piece of pop-cultural history – there’s no limit. Whether living or not, celebrities give a Midas touch, making celebrity memorabilia the next investment area and auctions the jump-off point dorianmagazine.com

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––––– MADE IN ESSEX –––––

AFTER SIX YEARS AS THE FACE OF DOLCE & GABBANA, DAVID IS NOW A GLOBAL BODY IMAGE AMBASSADOR. DAVID OPENS UP TO US JUST HOW HE REACHED THE PEAK OF THE FASHION WORLD IN THOSE WHITE SWIM TRUNKS words marc baker photo David Gandy for Marks & Spencer Menswear

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In an industry dominated by skinny boys, it’s a wonder David Gandy ever made it as one of the world’s most successful male models. But it seems Gandy is the first man you think about when it comes to men’s fashion.

Born into a working class family in Essex, England, David James Gandy never dreamed that he would one day end up as one of the most sought after men in the fashion world.

His self-confessed ‘lumpy build’ failed to turn heads where girls were concerned, meaning that he missed out on sex during his oh-so-important teenage years, but it wasn’t to last. Everything changed during David’s college years when he blossomed into the chiseled, 6ft 3 inches-tall man we all recognize.

His transformation from an ugly ducking quickly helped him win a televised model search competition in Britain, and later secured him a job on the books at London’s Select Models. The latter led to him becoming the lead male model for Italian designers Dolce & Gabbana in 2005 and after years in the shadows, Gandy finally turned heads in 2007 when an advert for their fragrance Light Blue was erected on a 50ft billboard in Times Square, New York.

His muscular build has not only put him firmly on the fashion map but also forced some of the world’s biggest menswear labels to up a gear and move to a more masculine standard.

Today, David continues to stand tall among the fashion world. His current projects include writing a blog for British Vogue and car reviews for British GQ, as well as helping to raise the profile of many charities.

So David, have you always been beautiful?

- When I popped out at birth, apparently the first thing the nurse said to my mum was, ”Look at the size of those legs and look at the size of that bum”.

Were you a good looking teenager?

- I was tall when I was younger but I grew out first and so I had a lot of puppy fat.

people

––––– I AM SINGLE AT THE MOMENT. I DON’T KNOW HOW THAT HAPPENS. I AM NOT TOO PICKY. I AM VERY BUSY BUT EVERYONE SAYS THAT WHEN THEY ARE NOT IN A RELATIONSHIP ––––– So around age 16 or 17, the time when you want to go out and start having sex and dating, that’s the time God decided I should be on my large side. Then luckily, I grew up. I shot up to 6ft 3’ and I was actually a skinny version of myself although I was still big. There still wasn’t as much sex as I would have liked. It was a hard time!

Was your big build ever a problem during your years on the catwalk?

- I wasn’t told I was fat, but I was told things by some big names in fashion because I didn’t fit the clothing. Not because I was too big, though, just because I didn’t fit the clothes. I never fitted into sample sizes. I never have.

How does it feel to be surrounded by stunning models all the time for work?

- Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I do work with some of the most beautiful women in the world, so I’m very fortunate, but it’s much more than that. A certain type of person would be attracted to that first, but once you strip everything away it’s all about if someone makes you laugh and what their personality is like. Sometimes I can’t have a laugh with some of the most beautiful women in the world, I can’t connect with them. You don’t see the beauty, so everyone is different.

Do you feel there is too much pressure on male and female models to keep looking good?

- There is much more pressure on women than there is on guys. I met two old friends recently and we asked where each other had been, as we hadn’t seen each other for ages. One of them said, ”By the look of it, you’ve been down the cake shop”.

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But it was a joke so we all burst out laughing. But you probably couldn’t say that to a group of girls or a woman. That’s the pressure. But there isn’t that same pressure on men; we don’t sit around talking about our weight.

Do you think the fashion industry is changing and becoming more accepting to models of different sizes?

- Some advertisers don’t use high fashion models now. The Dove commercials (they’re not fashion advertisers) use women of all sizes and shapes.

D AV I D J A M E S G A N D Y B O R N F e b r u a r y, 1 9 , 1 9 8 0 ( a g e 3 3 ) B i l l e r i c a y, E s s e x , G r e a t B r i t a i n O C C U PAT I O N M o d e l PA R T N E R S i n g l e . E x - g i r l f r i e n d s i n clude The Saturdays girl band singer Mollie King, actress Samantha Barks, model Sarah Ann Macklin FAV O R I T E D E S I G N E R R e i s s a n d Dolce & Gabbana FAV O R I T E S C E N T L i g h t B l u e b y Dolce & Gabbana T O P AWA R D S M o s t B e a u t i f u l I n ternational Male Face (Spanish G l a m o u r 2 0 0 8 ) ; M o d e l o f t h e Ye a r (British Fashion Council 2010); 100 Sexiest Men of 2012 (Glamour magazine); Sexiest Men of 2013 (Cosmopolitan); 100 Most Influential Men in Britain (British GQ 2013)

Have you ever felt insecure about the way you look?

- Yes, God, absolutely. There’s more pressure now than any other time in my life because of the accolades I’ve got. I don’t feel like I can step out of the house now in a pair of tracksuit bottoms and a T-shirt and just walk down the road. There is a lot of pressure and a lot of insecurities. We changed the male fashion industry. But now I’m 33, I look at the younger guys coming in and they’re amazing looking with better bodies, so handsome and a lot younger. So of course there are insecurities. I go to my agency and meet those guys, and I’m very competitive. I think those guys are ten times better looking than I am.

How did life change when you got your job with Dolce & Gabbana?

- It changed my life and it changed the industry, as back then it was full of the Dior guys. They were quite thin and skinny.

We wanted to create an iconic commercial. People always think I live that life – that I’m always in a dinghy from the aftershave advert - but I don’t. That does not happen.

Can you tell us how you muster up those amazing Light Blue aftershave adverts?

- We always do it in Capri, off the coast of Italy. We’ve done three now in the same location and we always use a holiday home to get changed. But on the last shoot I accidentally used a family’s bathroom by mistake. I went to get changed and I ran up to one of the bungalow things. I’m sitting there on the loo and looking around, and I think, ”Why have the crew brought all their toiletries with them?” Anyway, I got off, put my pants out and walked out.

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At that point I realized I had somehow gone into a bungalow that had been rented by a family. My Italian isn’t the best and I said to the family, ”You might not want to go in there for a while”.

Do you have to change much on those shoots?

- You get a fresh pair of pants for every take, and there is someone who will take a look at your crotch to make sure it looks right.

Tell us about your diet. How do you make sure you always look good?

- I don’t like the word diet. Food is a lifestyle. The word diet is a fad and your body will always revert back quickly to the way it was. It’s a matter of educating people. People are getting bigger around the world and the UK is the most obese nation in Europe now, so it really is a case of educating people about nutrition. Not all fats are bad; your body needs fat, but it’s the saturated fats that are bad. People think some foods don’t contain fats but they do contain sugar. I don’t eat in the morning –it’s apparently the worst thing you can do as once you start eating, your metabolism starts and you are burning calories straight away.

How do you manage what you eat?

- One of the most important dietary and nutritional requirements is protein. People often think that you should only eat protein when you are weight training, or that if you eat too much protein you will gain size and muscle. How wrong could you be? In my opinion, you can’t eat enough of it. I don’t just mean when training or exercising, but on normal rest days it helps your body and muscles to repair. Proteins can also help break down unwanted fat. Actually, I can’t tell you enough about how essential proteins are.

Let me put it this way. Protein is the most abundant component of the human body, and we all know how important it is that we drink water. Getting enough protein in our diets can be difficult and also many people don’t want to give up certain treats in life (for example, ice cream).

What has growing older taught you?

- I am much more comfortable in my own skin now than I ever have been. Before, I was trying to either prove something to

myself or other people, but now I’m just happy being me, really.

You have dated many beautiful women.

Who are you seeing now?

- I’m single at the moment. I don’t know how that happens. I’m not too picky. I am very busy but everyone says that when they are not in a relationship.

––––– OF COURSE THERE ARE INSECURITIES. I GO TO MY AGENCY AND I MEET THESE NEW GUYS AND I AM VERY COMPETITIVE. I THINK THESE GUYS ARE TEN TIMES BETTER LOOKING THAN I AM–––––

David Beckham has done wonders with his underwear range, why don’t you launch your own?

- Dolce and Gabbana were first with the white pants and they just followed. The way the industry has gone is that brands now pick celebrities rather than models, but we could see that happening. Beckham is an amazing ambassador for the UK though.

What does the future hold for you?

- I’m 33 now. I don’t know how long I’ll continue but Kate Moss and Naomi are top of their game.

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Dream Concerts posters Mickey Mouse sculpture Mr A –––––– ” K i m y e ” L’ O f f i c i e l H o m m e s c o v e r Caviar Kaspia packaging Andrépolis skyscraper

Artist. Entrepreneur. Designer. Photographer. Model. There isn’t a business card big enough to contain André Saraiva’s creativity. He does it all – and looks great while doing so. When the handsome French-Portugese, Swedish-born artist, who built his brand as a Paris graffiti artist and club entrepreneur, recently made a rare visit ”back home” to open the art exhibition Back To Sweden, we were quick to arrange a private moment.

ANDRÉ SARAIVA:

photo olivier zahm

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FASHION, FRIENDS & PHALLIC FIXATION

André quickly rose to fame on the early Parisian graffiti scene, with his easily recognizable, expressive style, and frequent use of hot pink. The stick figure character Mr A – is a cartoon alter ego. Notably, he appeared in the Banksy street art documentary Exit Through The Gift Shop along with other significant artists of the time, including Invader and Zevs.

During the early 21st century, André continued to develop his point of view and explored new medias, like painting and sculpture, for numerous solo exhibitions at Air de Paris, The Hole, Circle Culture, Half Gallery and at the Venice Biennale.

When Disney commissioned André to create a Mickey Mouse sculpture, they didn’t anticipate that André’s interpretation would include a major erection. A legal fued ensued.

Last year, his exhibition Andrépolis, a hedonistic scenario with neon-lit, phallic skyscraper-sculptures, toured the world, When he’s not attending international high-end parties with a hipster circle of friends, including Purple Magazine founder, Olivier Zahm, he’s frequently hired by luxury brands, in hopes of having Andrés

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sexy brand identity rubbing off on theirs – whether he’s designing packaging for Harry Winston, or is seen in front of the camera, as a brand ambassador for Louis Vuitton.

As if these creative outlets weren’t enough, since 2011, he can add creative director of glamorous French men’s fashion magazine L’Officiel Hommes to his busy CV. Ever the cultural provocateur, André lives and works from Paris with his model girlfriend Anabelle Dexter-Jones .

In August, the “André Show” hit Stockholm as a stop on the international exhibition tour, including Paris, New York, Tokyo, London and Miami. The Back to Sweden opening, at Gallery Steinsland Berliner in the south side of Stockholm, was timed to kick-off the Swedish Mercedes–Benz Fashion Week. It included André’s pop art Dream Concerts posters, announcing fake artist line-ups: Daft Punk, Jay-Z or Kanye West together with Serge Gainsbourg or Barbara (The French chanteuse) – sadly, these are of course just too good to be true.

André was accompanied by his club concept Le Baron, who together with sponsors ABSOLUT, subsequently held a suitably unique afterparty.

You lived here for a decade or so. How has your perception of Sweden changed since then?

–I have amazing memories of being a child in Sweden. I haven’t come back in 25 years, but being here makes me feel like I never left. The only thing is that the streets seem a bit smaller.

What are your thoughts on Swedish fashion and Swedish men’s fashion sense in general?

– Swedish men look very aware about fashion. They seem to dress with attention.

They seem to be all about minimalistic casual wear.

Our perception of you ranges from bad boy to good boy. Which is closer to the truth?

–It really depends on the specific day.

You are such a creative multitasker. What would your “job title” of life be?

–Artist!

What was your creative director vision when you took over the reins at L’Officiel Hommes? What changed?

–I think I made it more fashionable. Today L’Officiel Hommes is like a diary of the creative and fashion world, so it’s like news about the whole family.

It’s a straight magazine. What’s the state of straight postmodern men? Are you becoming more adventurous with style?

–Men are really becoming more interested in fashion in a creative way. They seem to be more and more aware of the fact that fashion is a representation of their individuality.

Are there any particular trends this season that you look forward to – or do without?

–I’m still waiting for the trend that gets everyone to be naked!

If you were gay, who would be a dream guy?

–I would have to say me – I’d definately fuck myself!

We often see you in the jeans, black lea-

I would have to say me – I’d definately fuck myself!

ther jacket, black frame “uniform”. Is this a concept or are you just a creature of habit?

– I’ve dressed like this since I was a teenager. It’s a freedom actually, to wake up in the morning and not having to think about what you’re going to wear.

Do you think that there are any risks for your own brand, when working a lot with many other brands?

–No, because I learn so much from each collaboration. It gives me more overall knowledge, more “maîtrise” – both with fashion and creativity.

Has Disney contacted you about you portraying Mickey Mouse with such an impressive erection?

–They did try to sue me, and to forbid me from showing it – but art cannot be censored.

How do you feel about the fact that public street art, like Banksy’s, is sold for huge amounts to private buyers at auction?

–I’m quite happy for him.

Monsieura.com

André on his hypothetical dream guy

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IN DECENT E X P O S U R E MOCA EXHIBITS THE ART LEGENDS TOM OF FINLAND & BOB MIZER WHOSE HYPER- MASCULINE EROTICA HELPED PROPEL EARLY QUEER CULTURE

Bob Mizer (1922–1992) and Touko Laaksonen, aka ”Tom of Finland” (1920–1991) are hailed as two of the most recognizable figures of 20th century erotic art and forefathers of the emerging post-war gay culture.

By creating and publishing subversive ”beefcake” erotica in the magazine Athletic Model Guild, they turned the tables on homophobia by using hypermasculine archetypes, by giving them homosexual desireable connotation. Their lustful art gave gay desire a platform, a raison d’étre, when being in the closet was still very much the norm.

MOCA celebrates the trailblazing duo and their extensive body of work in an exhibition that aims is to establish their art historical importance through a wide selection of Laaksonen’s masterful drawings and collages, alongside Mizer’s photographs, photo-collages, and films.

Beyond their significant cultural and social impact, their powerful aesthetic also continues to influence generations of artists, among them, Mike Ruiz, Kenneth Anger, Rainer Werner Fassbinder, David Hockney, G.B. Jones, Mike Kelley, Robert Mapplethorpe, Henrik Olesen, Jack Pierson, John Waters, and Andy Warhol.

To learn more about the first American museum exhibition of its kind, we caught up with Joakim Andreasson, founder of the progressive LA-based PR, marketing and branding firm, cultureEDIT, with prominent clients like Tom of Finland Foundation, Helmut Lang and Henzel Studio.

What is cultureEDIT’s role in the exhibition?

– I started working on PR assignments for MOCA via my friend and artist Daniel Trese, and MOCA’s Creative Director Emma Reeves. Emma and I go way back 78

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since my days heading Helmut Lang’s studio in New York. She brought me on to secure media coverage while driving traffic. Given my sensibility, experience and personal interest in the subject matter, it was a perfect match. Also, I didn’t mind the idea of looking at images of sexy men for a few months.

What has been the biggest challenge?

– Taking on this project, I felt a sense of responsibility to reintroduce the work to a younger generation and to an audience outside of the gay community. I strived to communicate this exhibition beyond the parameters of being solely “a gay show”.

Although the support has been extremely strong, there is still some resistance from certain outlets to cover homoerotic art, and support artists that operate outside of the confines of the traditional art system – but I sense that this is changing thanks to a number of influential institutional supporting the genre. Given that MOCA is located in the heart of West Hollywood, the epicenter of the LA gay population, it has been very important to reach out locally as well. It was key to reach a mass audience through national and international media outlets. We even worked on a piece with Interview Magazine Russia, which is quite significant given that the country is currently facing similar issues that Tom and Bob dealt with back in the 50’s. It is a very timely exhibition, and great way to remind people that not only do gay people sleep in the same bed, but they have sex in them.

What has the response been like?

– Beyond expectations. The exhibition is by no means traditional or purist and contrary to popular perception, it appeals to a very broad and progressive audience. Do you recall first experiencing Tom Of Finland and Bob Mizer’s art?

– Stylistically, I’ve always been very attracted to uniforms, and I still draw on traits of the leather and skinhead aesthetic. I’ve naturally had a longtime affinity for Tom’s work, which undeniably impacted my life and allowed me to be confident in my sexuality. As for Bob Mizer, I was introduced to his work when I moved to New York back in 2001 and saw the movie Beefcake. From then on, I was sold and have continuously been collecting vintage copies of Physique Pictorial.

Joakim Andreasson, cultureEDIT

BOB MIZER & TOM OF FINLAND MOCA Pacific Design Center 2 5 0 S G r a n d Av e , L o s A n g e l e s , C A 90012 Until 01.26.14 Moca.org

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TOM of FINLAND D E S I R A B L E F I N E A RT To m o f F i n l a n d ” h i j a c k e d ” s t r a i g h t homophobic culture of its most virile and masculine archetypes. Bikers, hoodlums, lumberjacks, cops, cowboys, and sailors were recast as proud enthusiasts of gay sex making them the foundation of an emerging gay leather culture.

Tom of Finland, Untitled (No.1 from ”Cyclist and the Farm Boy” series), 1973 © Tom of Finland Foundation Tom of Finland, Untitled (From Beach Boy 2 story), 1971 © Tom of Finland Foundation

Installation view of Bob Mizer & Tom of Finland at MOCA Pacific Design Center. Photo by Brian Forrest, © The Museum of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles.

BOB MIZER M O V I E S TA R S T Y L E P O RT R A I T S Bob Mizer founded the Athletic Model Guild, a film and photo studio specializing in Hollywood actor ”test shots” for handsome natural-bodied b o y - n e x t - d o o r. M i z e r ’s f r e s h - f a c e d , natural and light-hearted approach to male nudity and intimate physical contact between men makes him a trailblazer of the sexual revolution.

Installation view of Bob Mizer & Tom of Finland at MOCA Pacific Design Center. Photo by Brian Forrest, © The Museum of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles.

Bob Mizer, Athletic Model Guild Catalog Board, Ernie Rabb. c.1957. Printed with permission of Bob Mizer Foundation, Inc . dorianmagazine.com

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words daniel scheffler

lifestyle

––––– ARE WE PILL-POPPING, SNORTING , SMOKING HEDONISTS – OR IS ALL THAT JUST SO PASSÉ?

–––––

LET’S TALK ABOUT 80 |

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DRUGS

BABY

opposite D E S I R E - O B TA I N - C H E RISH’ ’DESIGNER DRUGS SOFT P A C K - O F 4 A L L’

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GAY PEOPLE ARE SEVEN TIMES MORE LIKELY TO TAKE ILLEGAL DRUGS THAN THE GENERAL POPULATION CRIME

S U RV E Y

Every generation of homosexuals has their drug of choice. In Shakespeare’s day his characters were often implicated in some mind-altering substance thrill or more. And even the man himself, according to Kate Wong in The Scientific American, the South African Journal of Science says, “The presence of cocaine and myristic acid (a plant-derived hallucinogen) in clay-pipe fragments were retrieved” from the writer’s home in Stratford-upon-Avon.

The analysis discussed there also hints at the presence of marijuana residue naturally. The man, and his band of brothers, certainly knew how to indulge.

“Molly is the big thing now. Coke is sort of grimy and passé. Weed smells too much and is also sort of low rent and junior high.” Molly of course is the nickname for pure MDMA in molecules. Aleksander goes on to say, “Known for inducing feelings of euphoria, closeness and diminished anxiety, Ecstasy was quickly embraced by Wall Street traders and Chelsea gallerinas. But as demand increased, so did the adulterants in each pill (caffeine, speed, ephedrine, ketamine, LSD, talcum powder and aspirin, to name a few), and by the new millennium, the drug’s reputation had soured.”

Moving forward, look at our best friend and first queer Oscar Wilde, who is known to have enjoyed hashish, opium and even forms of absinthe in all its variants. It was the Victorian era after all, and it kept Oscar and his long list of lovers occupied. It may have even been the reason the man perished. The glittered and glued gay boys at Studio 54 loved cocaine, and the raving homos of the 1990s loved ecstasy as they danced into the night (and day).

So with the naughties, and this current decade we’re in with Bill De Blasio as New York’s mayor instead of good old hardcore Giuliani, drugs like GHB (γ-Hydroxybutyric acid) and a mixture of ketamine and cocaine have became the drugs du jour. From the clubs to the boardrooms and all the way to the playgrounds (children optional) – it’s still all about the drugs.

According to Ethan Brown, in his piece “Crystal Ball” in New York magazine, “Name a drug - any drug - and a social scene springs to mind.” “Marijuana is smoked by hip-hoppers and hippies, ecstasy consumed by wide-pupiled clubbers, cocaine snorted by socialites and social climbers.” But as he says, “Rarely has a drug been so intertwined with one subculture as crystal meth is with New York’s underground gay-sex scene, which has been flourishing of late, particularly postGiuliani.” However, all kinds of drugs are still seemingly everywhere, both in small and big quantities, available in plain sight and obscured from piercing eyes and hungry noses, mouths and perhaps veins.

But let’s not discount the alternatives.

According to Max Daly, author of Narcomania: A Journey through Britain’s Drug World, there is a new batch – a breed of unbanned legal highs: AMT, originally an antidepressant in Russia, which is a long-lasting tryptamine (magic mushroom family) hallucinogenic; Benzo Fury (6apb), an MDA analogue; Ethylphenidate, a version of Ritalin where the chemical formula has been tweaked; Methiopropamine, a tweaked version of methamphetamine (crystal meth); Camfetamine, a legal version of the stimulant fencamfamine; MDAI, a serotonin releaser; Etizolam and Pyrazolam, legal thienodiazepenes, drugs with similar effects to valium/benzodiazepenes.

In the New York Times this June, Irina Aleksander quoted a source that said,

According to Andy McNicoll, who interviewed Yusaf Azad, the director of policy

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and campaigns at the National Aids Trust, “The drugs being used on the gay scene have changed in recent years, with gay men reporting more use of crystal meth and former legal highs like the stimulant mephedrone and the sedatives GHB and GBL.” Again, the drugs are all right. Or are they?

LOOKING AT THE FIGURES Statistics are varied across the world and so it is difficult to see whether the drug abuse, or call it drug fun, is on the rise or dipping down to a grand fall, regardless of gay or non-gay use. In the UK (England and Scotland specifically) around 1 in 12 (8.2%) adults had taken an illicit drug (excluding mephedrone) in the last year, a drop compared with 2011/12 (8.9%), and the proportion of adults aged 16 to 24 taking any drug in the last year was 16.3%, down from 19.3% in 2011/12. In the U.S. things are a little different: a nationwide survey made public last month found that 7.3% of Americans aged 12 or older regularly used marijuana in 2012, up from 7% in 2011. In mid-September 2013, research by the Australian Bureau of Statistics valued the contribution of the illicit drugs market to the Australian economy at A$6 billion. And then of course the media’s obsession with the “war on drugs” shows that the industry is certainly burgeoning.

Mexico anyone?

In its annual “Club Drugs: Emerging Trends and Risks” report, the National Treatment Agency for Substance Misuse in London says that despite a decline in overall use, around one million adults are estimated to have used club drugs in 2011-12. Ecstasy is used the most, but its popularity is waning: use is down from 502,000 in 2005-06 to 461,000 in 201112. Ketamine use has changed little over the last three years, hovering at around 200,000 adults. Just 0.1% of the adult podorianmagazine.com

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pulation recently used either GHB/GBL or methamphetamine.

Antidote, a drug and alcohol project in London, which supports exclusively LGBT men and women, suggests that GHB/GBL and methamphetamine now account for almost all of its work. According to The Substance Misuse Skills Consortium in the UK, men accessing Antidote – “a space they consider safe, confidential, and, crucially, aware of their lifestyles” – have reported how their drug use has changed and about the sometimes risky behavior that occurs while they’re using.

According to the report many men say that these drugs have a “strong, sexually stimulating effect” and that having sex with “five or more partners in a weekend” is common. Some even specifically look for bareback sex. “Wider official figures show a gradual increase in GHB/GBL and methamphetamine, along with the rapid rise of mephedrone use, but within the LGBT population this increase has been

GHB AND MDMA HAVE CHANGED THE WAY SOME GAY AND BISEXUAL MEN SOCIALIZE, KEEPING THEM IN CLUBS FOR LONGER, AND INCREASINGLY MOVING INTO PRIVATE PARTIES AND SOURCING SEXUAL PARTNERS VIA ONLINE DATING SITES AND SMART PHONE APPS SPECIFICALLY TO USE DRUGS WITH enormously steep and almost exclusively linked to sexual use by gay and bisexual men. These drugs have changed the way some gay and bisexual men socialize, keeping them in clubs for longer, and increasingly moving into private parties and sourcing sexual partners via online dating sites and smart phone apps that specifically to use drugs with.”

In the same report, reflecting on recent trends, addiction psychiatrist Dr. Adam Winstock says: “With new drugs such as mephedrone there is a honeymoon period, and now we are seeing people who are having problems. Its risk profile fits

MILEY CYRUS – WE CAN’T STOP LYRICS

S O L A - D A - D I - D A - D I W E L I K E T O PA R T Y D A N C I N G W I T H M O L LY A N D E V E RY O N E I N L I N E I N T H E B AT H R O O M T RY I N G T O G E T A L I N E I N T H E B AT H R O O M

– It depends who’s doing what. If you’re aged ten [the lyric is] Miley, if you know what I’m talking about then you know. I just wanted it to be played on the radio and they’ve already had to edit it so much…I don’t think people have a hard time understanding that I’ve grown up.

You can Google me and you know what I’m up to — you know what that lyric is saying MILEY CYRUS

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with other drugs such as GHB, GBL and ketamine, which have been around for a decade. Heavy users report deterioration in personal functioning, low moods, and lack of control.” But even that somehow doesn’t deter anyone - drugs are still everywhere.

The report also shows that 70% of methamphetamine and over half of all GHB/ GBL users in treatment were in their 30s or older. This group may be typified by older male users being treated for these and possibly other drugs – “a by-product perhaps of the popularity of these drugs among LGBT clubbing communities.”

Dr. Owen Bowden-Jones, a consultant psychiatrist who runs a club drug clinic in London, says his clinic treats two broad groups: “LGBT people form a large part of the clinic, with the other made up of heterosexual clubbers and students.”

In the UK’s Independent newspaper in September, Sarah Morrison makes the case that it could be either a “coping mechanism in the face of homophobia” or just “hectic partying”, but new figures suggest that gay people are seven times more likely to take illegal drugs than the general population (Crime Survey for England and Wales). Morrison goes on to quote David Stuart, the Education, Training and Outreach Manager at London Friend, the UK’s only targeted LGBT drug and alcohol service, who believes that feelings of “rejection” and “fear” as well as “shame around sex” could be factors leading to this substance abuse.

EVEN THE CELEBRITIES Last month’s cover girl Lady Gaga admitted to Brit magazine Attitude that she became dependent on marijuana after her hip operation, while Madonna has wildly

Desire-Obtain-Cherish’ ’Designer Drugs Chanel’

admitted to enjoying the green grass on occasion. But is it Mary Jane that is keeping the gay community occupied (yet again) or have they moved on from the series of drugs the clubs have been full of all summer?

In the Daily Beast this September, Kent Sepkowitz reports that while MDMA, a “purer, powdered form of Ecstasy chemically known as methylenedioxymethamphetamine has been around for decades,” it has lately surged in popularity with “college students, and is being name-checked by mainstream artists ranging from Kanye West and Rick Ross to Miley Cyrus and again Madonna”. Sepkowitz says, “It was first created as a diet drug in 1914, and in the 1970s was used by doctors as an aid in psychotherapy. In the 1980s and 1990s it burst upon the club scene as a party drug.”

In the New York Times piece Irina Aleksander quotes Rick Doblin, founder of the Multidisciplinary Association for Psychedelic Studies, who said, “As we move more and more electronic, pe-

ople are extremely hungry for the opposite: human interaction on a deeper level where you’re not rushing around. The rise of Molly is in tune with how people are feeling emotionally.”

FEELING EXTREME And in terms of interaction on a deeper level, what could be more intense than Party and Play. PNP, for lovers of acronyms, has been one of the gay community’s subcultures for the last half century – some even call it an “epidemic.” In the last 10 years or so PNP has taken on a whole new tenor with the increase in phone apps and dating sites, including Scruff and Adam4Adam, tailored for the users to choose their own adventure. However some sites, such as Manhunt.net, prohibit members from saying that they want PNP or from making other positive references to drug use. The drug of choice is typically methamphetamine, aka “crystal” or “tina” in the gay community. Other party drugs such as MDMA and GHB seem to be less popular at these PNP get-togethers, says the National HIV Prevention Conference (a collaborative effort by the Centers for

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Disease Control and Prevention, a U.S. Government agency, and other governmental and non-government organizations).

As stimulant drugs go, like methamphetamine, it’s a perfect party friend - a drastic delay for the need for sleep and also tends to inhibit ejaculation. PNP events are meant to go on for hours and since methamphetamine highs lasts about eight hours, or several days on multiple doses, it’s the best friend for the party of course.

But then there is the problem of “crystal dick” – a slightly embarrassing and frustrating inhibited erection - less play and definitely too much party. But drugs like sildenafil, vardenafil, and tadalafil are used to fix that (according to the pharmaceutical brands). And so the cocktail continues but possibly with some disastrous consequences.

AND THE TROUBLE IS Naturally, there are problems. “We’re seeing a strong correlation between crystal and HIV infection,” says the Pride Institute of New York. Men who PNP with dorianmagazine.com

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methamphetamine, cocaine, MDMA, and ketamine are twice as likely to have unprotected sex (sex without using a condom), according to The Pink News. The study, from City University, London, also found that up to 20% of gay men from central London gyms have tried methamphetamine, the drug most associated with PNP.

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drone, GHB and crystal meth – combined with high-risk sexual practices.”

According to Elizabeth Hartney, in her piece on About.com, although some gay men assert that, “party-and-play involvement is a kind of initiation into the gay scene”, actually many gay men “choose not to use drugs or to have anonymous or unprotected sex.” She goes on to say that in the same way not all gay men have anal sex, whether drug fueled or not, it is “unfortunate that vulnerable young men, uncertain of their sense of belonging in the gay community, buy into these myths and take drugs in order to perform and feel part of the gay scene.” Hartney sees it as a way of feeding “a false negative stereotype of gay men as superficial, irresponsible and uninterested in committed relationships.”

Drugs have been there all along. They’ve thrilled us, scared us and given us a place to escape reality. The statistics, inconclusively, show that it is both bigger and smaller than before. As the celebrities bring it to the mainstream, the junkies below the surface concoct mixtures and blends that will never reach the surface for some light.

Even if cultures decide on their weapon of choice, the fact remains that drugs, no matter how much or little get used or abused, will always be part of the very fiber of life. People, humans, want to escape; they want to see deeper into the very fabric of existence. Drugs, in all their forms (including the legal stuff), give humans that god-like quality of reaching through the veils around us and touching something on the other side. Then of course, you might just be so consumed by materialism and all of life’s nonsense that you no longer feel anything. Drugs might give you the ability to feel yet again, the ability to feel alive, truly alive. Tomorrow is so far away that it doesn’t matter at all.

Writer Patrick Cash, in QX magazine, talks about the term syndemic. Related to epidemic, it’s defined as “two or more diseases/societal problems that work together to create a bigger negative impact on a community’s health than if there was just one.” He believes that most people will be able to tell you that the “last epidemic the gay community lived through was the AIDS decimation of the 1980s.

However, what many may not know is that our community is currently, in 2013, technically living in a new syndemic: that of widespread party drug use – mephe-

The only tricky part is the kind of sex that comes hand in hand with the druggery happening across the planet. Forget the superbug - the super drug infestation will come with behavior, whether you’re crashing cars or having unprotected sex.

It can ruin not just your night but possibly your life as well as the lives of others. So even if it’s apparently not about a specific drug, it’s all about sex, drugs and seemingly no rock ‘n’ roll. Just some iPhone on shuffle in the corner of the room and sex with somebody you think you used to know.

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DORIAN fashion / 14 WINTER

ACHTUNG BABY!

Berlin’s gritty and experimental 80s gay scene inspire a playful approach to colour and shape.

MONOCHROME MANIA

The summer trend that celebrates the impact of tone-on-tone garments, hits the winter season.

ANARCHY

Fashion finds an edgy function-before-form focused inspiration in subversive underground movements.

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L U X U R Y F A S H I O N D E S I G N B E A U T Y C E L E B R I T Y C U LT U R E T R A V E L S E X – G AY L I F E I N S T Y L E –

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