Jplus 2015 06 21 lores

Vol. 2 No. 33 I June 21 - 27, 2015

PEARL of

ASIA

Phnom Penh’s renaissance 4-WHEEL ODYSSEY

A NEW ZEALAND ROAD TRIP

QUIET LUXURY

BRINGING HOME THE BIRKIN

BEYOND THE BURRITO

MEXICO ON THE MENU

Noted in passing

Check List

BITTERSWEET BEGININGS It is a pleasure, albeit a bittersweet one, for me to start at Jplus, which has been adroitly led by Bruce Emond over its first 84 issues.

Bruce has always been a delight to read, offering a unique take on Jakarta, its people and its cultural scene. His touch will be missed.

It is also a pleasure to feature a travel story on our cover. While we will still regularly focus on the stories behind Indonesia’s talents, both new and established; we’re excited to offer tales of different destinations penned by gifted writers.

For this issue, Mary K. Higgens takes us through the streets of Phnom Penh – and shows us that there’s more than meets the eye in the Cambodian capital.

Don’t let the city’s apparent similarity or geographic proximity to Jakarta deceive you. To paraphrase the Chicago newspaperman Ben Hecht, in this urban life there dwells the stuff of literature – and this is what Mary finds on Phnom Penh’s streets.

Reading Mary’s article makes me remember that there’s still much to be seen in our fair city, as well.

The other evening, I met with a friend who was born and raised in Jakarta. Despite living here for more than 30 years, he claims to know only about 40 percent of what the city has to offer. The megalopolis is so immense, according to my friend, that “my Jakarta” is quite different from “his Jakarta” – or anyone else’s Jakarta.

But that’s the charm of the city. Down this gang or nestled in that market, there’s always a chance to glimpse something new – even if it is a place that you’ve traveled many times before. You just need to look.

Best wishes for a blessed Ramadhan, for all who observe.

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TRANSCENDING TACOS Touting Mexico’s varied culinary traditions.

Christian Razukas jplus@thejakartapost.com

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mark my words

YOUR FOOTSTEPS MAKE THE ROAD

A well-travelled life is more than top-ten list on Buzzfeed

WORDS Tessa Wijaya

INDIE SPIRIT

Petra finds his own path

JPlus Team Editor Christian Razukas Art Director Budhi Hartono Marketing & Advertising Sales & Marketing Director Ady P. Pamungkas

ady.pamungkas@thejakartapost.com

Marketing Executive Dewi Damayani

dewi.damayani@thejakartapost.com

I was lucky to be able to travel from a very young age, so travel and adventure have always been in my blood. I was a wee six-month-old fetus when my mother traveled to Bangkok, and one of my first memories as a child was of crawling the aisles of an airplane.

Those were the glamorous days - when the silverware was made of solid stainless steel and the food platters of gleaming white ceramics instead of plastic.

While I went through the usual tourist routes – the kind that involved tour buses, triangular flags on extendable sticks and uniform backpacks – I was also encouraged to travel independently from a young age.

I remember being driven to the airport at 11 with passport and cash in hand.

Check in, do the usual drill of lining up at immigration and going to the boarding gate, and your aunt will be waiting at the arrivals terminal in Hong Kong, I was instructed.

No escort services from the airlines, no ‘unattended child’ sticker on my chest, just me and my carry-ons. Some of you are probably gasping in horror right about now, but I never once felt scared. I felt empowered and independent and it didn’t seem any different than going on a bus to school on my own.

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I did a lot of traveling with my father when I was younger. Puma should really have hired him as its brand ambassador because no one embraced the “forever faster motto better” than he. We once traveled through three countries in seven days.

I was never allowed to pack more than I can bring in my carry on, and often we would go places with no itinerary and set plan except for the next flight booking. But in the same open-minded spirit of sending me off to fly on my own, I was encouraged to try everything from scuba diving to air ballooning to horse riding and sky diving.

We drove through desserts at the end of the Great Wall, when village heads were still awed by visitors and would offer us a grilled goat head as an honorary meal for our arrival. We crawled down tombs of pharaohs and climbed up mountains to see glorious sunrises.

Back then, the pictures were scarce, though – and I didn’t have an Instagram feed. So most of these amazing experiences are etched fondly only in memory, which makes them even sweeter.

These days I’m less of an Usain Bolt and more of an Erika Brown (winner of National Curling Championship of 2015 in the US – a random fact of the day for you).

I like to take my time rather than to zoom past a gazillion cities in one go. I also tend to roam closer to home.

My ideal travel experience is to strap some surfboards on the roof rack of my Ford Everest, stick our four dogs in the trunk (and my husband at the driver’s seat) and to drive to a quiet beachside spot around Java or Sumatra. Traveling is about spending time with my family, enjoying nature and slowing time down to a more simple and basic lifestyle.

While there are many ways to travel, the moral of the story is that it doesn’t matter whether you want to jet-set around Europe or if you only have the budget to take the train to Yogyakarta. We should all take the time to get up and go, and open our eyes to new experiences.

Nothing can substitute from the experience of seeing different landscapes, eating new foods, and smelling new smells. We are also lucky to live in an archipelago where we don’t need to roam far to experience new cultures and enjoy beautiful landscapes.

So I encourage you to pack your bags and see where the road takes you. A life well-traveled is worth its weight in gold I say! (Here’s to hoping I didn’t steal that quote from somewhere!)

@JPlusSunday JPlusSunday

SundayJplus jakplus.com

ON THE COVER A Cambodian monk sitting on a ferry as the sun just north of Phnom Penh.

AFP/Tang Chhin Sothy

On the road The adventurous frequently look to take the road less traveled while on vacation. In New Zealand, it’s convenient – and fun – to make that journey while driving. Here are a few different ways to explore the country, whether behind the wheel or in the passenger seat.

Rental cars Driving gives you a chance to move at your own pace. The nation boasts an excellent and extensive road network.

There are rental companies for every budget and taste. In general, longer rental periods translate into less expensive daily rates. The country also makes it easy for tourists to get behind the wheel: You can drive legally in New Zealand for up to 12 months with a valid driver’s license from

another country or with an International Driving Permit.

If the text on your license isn’t in English, you’ll have to provide a translation – visit the NZ Transportation Agency’s website (nzta. govt.nz) for more info.

Drivers must be at least 21 to rent a car in New Zealand.

Motorhomes and campervans Vehicles that combine transportation and accommodation offer the flexibility while on the road. You’re free to explore faraway places without worrying about where to stay.

Daily rental rates vary according to season, not by distance traveled. Renters will need to purchase insurance for the length of their rental period and also typically must pay a refundable security deposit. Remember:

Demand can be high during peak seasons, so it’s best to reserve your vehicle before arriving.

Traveling by bus Of course, you can always travel by bus and let someone else worry about the road. Picking a bus is easy. Make sure that the operator is certified by Qualmark, pay attention to online reviews, and, most importantly, pick a destination that will give you a chance to enjoy New Zealand with your own eyes.

Road rules Remember that people drive on the left in New Zealand – just like in Indonesia.

However, you cannot make a left turn on red.

Drivers can’t make calls on hand-held mobile phones while driving: Phones must be hands free or mounted to the car. Everyone must use seatbelts and kids under five must travel in special car seats.

Look for the signs announcing the speed

Photos courtesy Tourism New Zealand

New Zealand makes it easy to explore while travelling on four wheels

limit, which is generally 100 km/hour in rural areas and Roads can be slippery during winter and 50 km/hour in urban areas – unless posted otherwise. Take care and slow down if there’s bad weather - or if you’re on a gravel road in the countryside.

Make sure you take enough time to enjoy your trip. New Zealand’s country roads can be long and winding – making some trips a lot longer than you’d think. And if you find a sheep (or any other animal) blocking your way, don’t honk your horn. It might scare them!

For more on planning your New Zealand road trip, try newzealand.com/sg/tripsand-driving-itineraries/top-nz-trips - or visit newzealand.com/sg/car-free-travelling for tips on exploring the country without a vehicle.

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at your LEISURE

Latin Flavor FOR THIS CHEF, CONVENTIONAL CHIMICHANGAS ARE A CLICHE WORDS AND photoS Mary K. Higgens

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f there’s one thing that Mexican chef Julio Ortega loves, it’s food. It doesn’t matter if he’s cooking it, styling it, photographing it or eating it; the cuisine of his homeland is his passion.

Ortega, educated at one of Mexico City’s premier gastronomical universities, is the founder of the Mexico-based culinary consulting group Navideño Taller JO Catering. At 36, the accomplished chef has worked in fine restaurants around the world – from Mexico to Spain to Indonesia.

Ortega recently visited Jakarta as part of the Gran Melia’s Mexican Food Fiesta, which took place at the hotel from May 21 to June 2.

The Mexican food extravaganza was the result of a collaboration between the Gran Melia and the embassy of Mexico in Indonesia. Ortega was tapped to introduce the authentic flavors of the local foods of Mexico to Jakartans.

He spent nearly two weeks preparing traditional dishes at the hotel’s international restaurant, Cafe Gran Via. During an interview with JPlus, Ortega enthusiastically showed off his Instagram photos on his phone. With signature friendliness, he explained that while his passion was cooking traditional Mexican food, he also liked to create dishes using the latest technology and tools - and that he always presented each dish with a contemporary flare.

“In Mexico we have a lot of cooks who don’t make traditional Mexican food. [They] make a new Mexican cuisine,” he says. “In my case, I really respect all the traditional flavors of Mexico, but I make a different presentation.”

As he swiped through Instagram, he revealed picture after picture of expertly arranged plates. Colorful pastries, gooey enchiladas and overstuffed burritos looked more like works of art than just a meals.

While the pictures were something special, his stylized creations were even more impressive in person.

There were chicken flautas (deep-fried corn tortillas with a meat filling) on beds of fresh guacamole, tortilla soup piled high with crispy strips

at your LEISURE

of corn tortillas, ceviche denopales (cactus salad) flavored with a zesty dressing and chicken enchiladas drenched in a thick mole (a traditional sauce made from chocolate) and fluffy and colorful conchas (sweet breads).

“The most traditional is the tortilla soup and the mole sauce,” he says. “Mole is the most famous. You use chocolate and six kinds of chilies, but it’s not spicy, just a little soft flavor.

This mole, mole with chicken, is the most traditional, [with] chicken, [mole] sauce, cream and cheese on top.”

“The other is the tortilla soup.[You use] epazote, tomato, garlic, onion and chicken broth. To finish you put the epazote. Always use fried tortilla, avocado and fresh cheese,” he instructs. “It’s too easy to make [but] you need one herb that you can’t find in Indonesia: epazote. It’s a medicinal [and] aromatic herb.”

In fact, many of the ingredients required to prepare his signature dishes can’t be found in Indonesia. But Ortega, who is all about cooking Mexican food the authentic way, with local Mexican ingredients, came to Jakarta prepared.

He even went so far as to bring 90 kilograms of hard-to-find supplies – like his premade mole sauce, epazote and a variety of chili peppers – all the way from his hometown of Monterrey Mexico, to Jakarta.

According to Ortega, his mission was to bring some of Mexico’s most traditional dishes to Jakarta to show Indonesians that real

Mexican food is much different than the commercialized versions that are found in many so-called Mexican restaurants in the city.

Ortega, who is partial to food from the southern Mexican states of Chiapas and Oaxaca, says that mole is a distinctly Oaxacan dish that is likely completely foreign to most Indonesians.

“All the people that came to the festival [said] it’s different, it’s not Mexican food.

But Mexican food is not burritos only or chimichangas!” he said.

Indeed, he succeeded in bringing something new to the table. During the Mexican Food Fiesta, he introduced Jakarta to some of his favorite staple dishes, from the unheard-of mole to traditional tacos.

According to Ortega, it is tacos that are the most traditional food in Mexico. In most Mexican cities, tacos al pastor – corn tortillas filled with marinated pork and achiote – are ubiquitous.

“Tacos are the most famous [and] traditional,” he says. “It’s part of the Mexican food group. In Mexico, we have one expression that means if you don’t have corn, [you have] no country. Si tu no tienes maiz, no tiene pais,” he says, proudly.

The chef then exposed the underside of his forearm, revealing a large tattoo of an ear of corn with the names Ana and Julio emblazed across it. It’s clear just how important these three things are to him: his wife, his son - and the food of his homeland.

JPlus June 21, 2015

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personality

One to Watch PETRA SIHOMBING JUST MAY BE MUSIC’S NEXT BIG THING Words Dian Arthen Photos Grego Gery

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etra Sihombing was an aspiring 17-year-old musician looking for a way to break into the buisness when he scored a record deal in 2009.

He signed with HITS Records and wasted no time, releasing his self-titled debut album in the same year, followed by another two albums, Pilih Saja Aku (Just Choose Me) in 2012, and Mine in 2014.

“Music is the way I speak. I’m not really good at talking to people, so the way I’m conveying my message is through music,” says the singer.

Although he’s young — Petra turned 23 in April —the singer possesses the soul of a true artist.

The son of gospel singer Franky Sihombing, Petra says music was his only interest when growing up. He’s been

personality playing instruments since he was a kid.

Petra’s brother, Ben, is a songwriter and they collaborated on the single “Mine”.

Writing lyrics, Petra says, comes easily to him.

“Inspiration can come from anywhere, from daily activities to things that don’t happen to me directly […] I listen to a lot of music and hone my skill from the Internet,” says Petra, who cites singer-songwriters John Mayer and Steven Curtis Chapman as influences.

“The Internet can teach you a thing or two, like theory for example – but there are also things that you need to learn directly from people,” he adds.

The graduate of the Indonesian Music Institute recently released a new single titled “Semua Tentang Dirimu” (Everything about You). The song is a collaboration

EXTENDED PLAY Guilty pleasure “Out of the Woods” by Taylor Swift.

All-time fave It’s like when you have three kids and have to pick one, it’s so hard … I can give you the all-time fave album though. it’s Sondre Lerche’s self-titled album.

In heavy rotation “No Room in Frame” by Death Cab for Cutie.

People would be surprised to know that…

I can whistle with my teeth. with a friend and tells of someone who encounters a past lover and rekindles their relationship.

Petra says his tunes can be classified in the pop-folk category. Although many other musicians go in the same direction, “musical idealism” is what sets him apart, he adds.

“People must have heard of the term [musical idealism] or ‘indie music is idealist’. To me, idealism itself is different in every individual. Let’s say that I place Icelandic post-rock band Sigur Rós on level eight while American composer Phillip Glass is on level 11,” the Jakarta-born-andbred musician said.

“My own idealism, in terms of producing and writing a song, is placed on level three and therefore no matter how idealistic I am in creating music, my music will always be in simple tunes and it won’t be as heavy as those musicians,” he adds.

“And that’s where I’m going for the next album, simple music that really fits my standard.”

Personal Touch Apart from the occasional early morning photo shoot for magazines such as Jplus, Petra said that he was pretty much a nocturnal person, spending his days — and nights — in his room, which doubles as a studio, surfing the Internet.

When he does come out from his mancave, the budding musician prefers to hang around with friends – or chat with his girlfriend, fellow singer Lala Karmela.

The lovebirds have been an item for about a year. Despite working in the same industry, Petra said that his partner has a different approach when it comes to creativity.

“I’m the type of person who likes to be left alone when I’m in the process of making music or about to perform on stage, while Lala is the polar opposite,” Petra says.

“I make and produce my own music, she makes her music but doesn’t arrange or produce it. So there are certain elements that I think are essential but she doesn’t want to put too much stress on it and lets other people think for her.”

The pair also agrees to disagree about music from time to time, he adds. “Like in every relationship, we compromise.”

Petra says that he will produce Lala’s next album while finishing up his own.

With two big projects in hand, plus media appearances and onstage performances, 2015 has been a busy year, as Petra took a break from acting. So far, he has starred in three movies: Cahaya Kecil (Small Lights, 2014), Hasduk Berpola (Patterned Neckerchief, 2012) and Love in Perth (2010).

While Petra said while that he loves recording in the studio and producing songs, performing onstage offers a different vibe.

“When I’m onstage, everyone – well most of the audience – is singing along to the songs that I recorded,” he says. “In the studio, it’s about getting the sound right. On stage is where I’m trying to pass the message to the people – two different things that give me a different sense of satisfaction.”

When it comes to his stage persona, Petra wants people to see him simply as the man with a musical instrument his hands.

“Just a guy with a guitar and good songs, good vibes — positive vibes.”

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coverSTORY

Rising From

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the Ashes

coverSTORY

Visitors to the Cambodian captial will find a surprisingly exotic experience.

WORDS Mary K. Higgens PHOTOS Mary K. Higgens and AFP

W

hen it comes to the top Southeast Asian cities, Bangkok, Singapore and Kuala Lumpur spring to mind. Rarely is Phnom Penh thrown into the mix. To this day, Cambodia’s bustling capital city remains shockingly under the radar. But that’s all starting to change –and fast.

Nestled in the heart of Cambodia, on the banks of the Mekong and Tonlé Sap rivers, Phnom Penh has been experiencing a renaissance as of late.

Offering a unique blend of old world attractions and contemporary restaurants, boutique hotels and trendy bars, the city is making visitors take notice.

Phnom Penh, once fondly regarded as the “Pearl of Asia”, was a premier vacation destination in the early 1900s.

However, after the Khmer Rouge came to power in the 1970s, things took an unfathomable turn. Cambodia suffered brutally under Pol Pot’s dictatorship; it is estimated that from 1970 to 1975, more than 2 million people – roughly one quarter of the country’s population – were killed.

The events that took place during that time had a direct impact on the city. When the Khmer Rouge seized control, they forced all of Phnom Penh’s inhabitants to live in rural work camps, rendering the once-thriving capital a virtual ghost town. It remained that way for years.

Decades passed before Cambodia

could even start to recover after the Khmer Rouge fell in 1975. The scars left from this time are still visible. Despite this, Phnom Penh has managed to thrive once again. In the last 10 years alone, the capital has been transformed from a rundown riverside city to a happening metropolis. And today, business is booming in Phnom Penh.

Like many other international visitors, my primary reason for visiting Cambodia was to see the great temples of Angkor.

Like many others, I found myself in transit in Phnom Penh, a place I knew little about.

Prior to visiting, I had heard nothing but negative things – mainly that Phnom Penh was very poor and was home to a seedy red light district. After arriving, I found myself instantly charmed by my surroundings.

Perhaps it was the city’s picturesque riverside setting, the orange-robed monks who casually strolled through the parks or the gently decaying French-colonial buildings that lined the boulevards. Whatever it was, I immediately changed my plans.

I decided to stay for a few days and explore what I would soon discover to be a wildly misunderstood, impossibly complicated and under-rated capital city.

When I told my family back in the US that I’d be spending a few days in Cambodia’s capital, their immediate reaction was one of surprise and concern.

They couldn’t understand what drew me to visit what they viewed as a dangerous and unattractive Third World city.

But the image that they (and so many others) had in their minds couldn’t be further from the reality that I experienced.

For those who take the time to look past its

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For those who take the time to look past its rough exterior, it’s easy to understand PHNOM pEnh’s allure rough exterior, it’s easy to understand the city’s allure.

What many don’t know is that Phnom Penh appeals to all sorts of visitors, from hostel-dwelling backpackers to luxuryseeking retirees.

In the past decade, luxury and boutique hotels have popped up all around the city. For a mere US$40, I was able to stay in a tastefully decorated top-floor suite, complete with the modern conveniences of a swank Bangkok hotel for a fraction of the price. There was WiFi, a flat screen TV, a rooftop pool and a beautiful buffet breakfast. I quickly found out that hotels like this are commonplace in Phnom Penh and part of the draw for many visitors.

My hotel was located near the river, the home base for most tourists. The setting was not only beautiful, but the majority of the city’s best restaurants and bars were located within walking distance. Another perk was that I was also able to either walk or take a short tuk-tuk ride to all of the city’s main attractions – from the bustling Central Market to the stunning Royal Palace to ancient Wat Phnom, a 13thcentury Buddhist temple.

Simply walking around was thrilling. The city’s chaotic streets were abuzz with an endless stream of tuk-tuks and motorbikes.

Street vendors, who sold everything from sweet iced coffee to cold coconut juice to fresh baguettes, were ubiquitous.

The different styles of architecture – from ornate Khmer temples to Frenchcolonial buildings to narrow Chinesestyle shop houses – all impressive and silently alluding to the city’s past.

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coverSTORY

IF YOU GO… Where to stay

King Grand Boutique Hotel – I paid roughly $US 40 per night for a double room. Visit their website at kinggrandboutiquehotel.com.

Phnom Penh is known for its well-preserved colonial buildings, stately villas and stunning churches - just some of the many remnants left by the French, who colonized Cambodia from 1863 until 1941.

The city might not be home to ritzy shopping malls like Singapore’s Orchard Road, but I was pleasantly surprised to find it full of local markets, such as the Central Market, one of the best-known in Phnom Penh and located roughly 10 minutes by foot from the river.

Wandering through mazelike pathways, I found a wide range of items from local artwork to exotic flowers to fresh fruits to trendy clothes. It was also one of the less expensive places in town to find a meal. Cambodians could be seen perched on plastic stools, munching on things such as grilled squid, steaming bowls of noodle soup and sweet pastries.

It was a wonderful place to get a feel for the local lifestyle, do some shopping and snack on local delicacies like fish amok (a coconut milk curry) and deep-fried bugs (a popular snack in Cambodia).

While it’s possible to eat and shop like a local, there were also plenty of contemporary shops, restaurants and bars peppered around the city. Thanks to the thriving expat scene (the city attracts many foreign teachers, NGO workers and entrepreneurs) there was an astonishing variety of places to go.

Phnom Penh had a surprisingly diverse food scene.

During my few days in the city I sampled foods from across the world – from Lebanese to Mexican to Nepalese. The city is also home to sizeable Vietnamese and Indian populations and I stumbled upon quite a few authentic eateries specializing in pho and curry.

The city was unexpectedly diverse. Throughout my stay, it managed to surprise me at every turn. It was possible to spend an entire day educating myself in museums to wandering local markets to dining in authentic Middle Eastern restaurants to watching the sun set from chic rooftop bars.

The options were seemingly endless in Phnom Penh.

What to do

The Killing Fields & the TuolSleng Genocide Museum– Must-visits for anyone who wants to learn more about the Khmer Rouge.

The National Museum – This museum is a wonderful place to learn about the Angkor temples. The museum features hundreds of statues and carvings that were salvaged from the temples.

Where to eat

Friends –This popular restaurant is actually a training restaurant which helps former street kids to acquire skills to better their lives. It’s dining for a cause and the tapas are excellent.

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a la MODE

Birkin

my heart MORE THAN 30 YEARS AFTER IT WAS INTRODUCED, THE HERMÈS BIRKIN IS STILL THE MOST EXCLUSIVE HANDBAG IN THE WORLD. WORDS Lauren Sherman/Bloomberg

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Victoria Beckham

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photos AFP & Bloomberg

hen Hermès opens its new Miami Design District flagship on Nov. 6, local clients will find a selection of leather goods, fashion, and accessories chosen specifically for them. Every Hermès outpost is run like an independent boutique, with a store director who visits Paris each year to buy pieces he or she believes will appeal to the location’s particular flavor.

But certain items resonate, no matter where in the world they land. Consider the Birkin Sellier 40, the latest version of what a casual observer might call the original It Bag. Crafted out of what is called Hunter cowhide—which holds its shape without much manipulation—the 40-centimeter-long style is unlined, with raw-edge straps, palladium hardware, and a retail price of US$14,900.

The Sellier 40 will be available in Miami, although “available” is a relative term. Birkins of all shapes, sizes, and styles still sell out instantly, with wait lists typical of 10 or 15 years ago. The Birkin really holds up, says Robert Chavez, Hermès’s chief executive officer in the US. “Customers appreciate the quality, craftsmanship and timeless style.”

‘Elite Sales Yes, clients are suckers for a solid product that takes 18 to 20 hours to make from start to finish, all done by one craftsperson (who starts by selecting just the right piece of leather or exotic skin for the bag and ends with a series of painstaking quality control tests).

But they are also suckers for careful, shadow marketing, high prices, limited supply, and a permanent air of exclusivity. It’s probaby the latter, more than the former, that has kept the

Birkin the most elite handbag in the world.

In Hermès’s 2014 fiscal year, sales of leather goods and saddlery reached ¤1.8 billion ($2 billion), up nearly 13 percent from ¤1.6 billion in 2013. And in the first quarter of 2015, category sales reached ¤511 million, a jump of nearly 25 percent from last year’s ¤410 million.

The 178-year-old company does not report how many Birkins are sold every year, or what percentage of that leather sales figure is attributable to the line. Secrecy and success are intertwined.

Hermès does not market the Birkin through traditional print, online, or television advertising.

Instead, the company relies on the bag’s perceived exclusivity and prestige. If the world knew how many bags were churned out every year, the luster would likely dim. The only thing Hermès wants you know about the bag’s availability is that you probably can’t get one.

“Hermès was very smart in not flooding the market with Birkins,” says Mario Ortelli, a luxury goods analyst at Sanford C. Bernstein.

“No one can walk in and buy a Birkin ‘from the back,’” says Michelle Goad, CEO of P.S. Dept., a personal shopping app that services 20,000 luxury customers globally.

“The key to getting one is to find someone who has a relationship with one of their associates, [which means they’ve] bought one in the past.”

If this sounds a bit like a Catch-22, that’s because it is: To be sold a Birkin, you have to have bought one already.

Unless you get lucky.

Very occasionally customers can waltz into an Hermès shop and scoop up a surprisingly available version—the 2009 memoir, Bringing Home the Birkin: My Life in Hot Pursuit of the World’s Most Coveted Handbag,

Karin Rodriguez

a la MODE

detailed personal shopper Michael Tonello’s experience in doing that very thing—but that’s far from the norm.

“Think of it like almost being interviewed,” says Goad. “You have to have a purchase history at the store to just get started, then they meet with you, assess how serious you are about spending, and then Jenifer Lopez Amber Heard you go on their list.

P.S. Dept. was recently able to secure a Birkin for a client within one month of her request, which Goad readily admits was a lot of “right time, right place,” noting three- to six-month waits as the norm. Flexibility helped, too. “This client was very open to sizes and color—she just wanted one of the bags—which made it much easier to get her one.”

So it’s also safe to say that if you want to buy a Birkin, and you can afford one, it will eventually be yours. In the meantime, the exclusivity—both perceived and real (from price and specific design details)— generates plenty of cultural cachet and continues the cycle of sales. Along with the dozens of written accounts, a legendary episode of Sex and the City Vuitton’s $5,600 Capucines to Céline’s centers on Samantha’s quest to procure $6,200 lizard box bag. The number the unicorn of handbags. of choices has increased, too. Today, This sort of free publicity is the best Hermès’s competition includes not only kind available: money-can’t-buy word-ofChanel and Dior but also Moynat, Marc mouth that puffs up the tightly controlled Cross, the Row, and so on. distribution system.

So what’s a category leader like Hermès Meanwhile, the handbag market is to do? Offering newness is one strategy, constantly changing. Brands at all levels and the horsey leather goods house are raising their prices, from Louis does tend to introduce a new bag on the

while keeping the quality top-notch.

For the most devoted customers—and by that we mean the biggest spenders— the company offers customization. Sales associates are schooled on the hundreds of available combinations so that serious collectors can easily purchase their dream Birkin. “We do take special orders, but in a small way,” Chavez says. “If we can meet a client’s expectations, we will consider a special order.”

In many ways, customization has always been at the core of the Birkin. The bag, after all, was first made to the specifics of its namesake, actress and singer Jane Birkin, who needed a carryall to handle her Hermès diary.

In a sense, the company is doubling down on the bag—committing to training 200 new craftspeople across categories each year and continuing to increase production.

Hermès points to two new workshops in the Rhône Alpes and Poitou Charentes regions of France as a source for its success in 2014. Craftsmen are trained for a minimum of five years and will receive additional training if they are to work with exotic skins.

As Hermès has increased production, demand has also amazingly increased, thanks to a mix of factors. One is that Asia’s wealthy are less and less interested in logos (a demure Hermès label Kate Moss only appears hidden under the top flap of the Birkin). That goes hand in hand with the global rise Sabrina Hahn of quiet luxury—the idea that refined, minimalist goods speak volumes more without saying as runway every much. For the modern high-net-worth other season consumer, Hermès is the brand: It’s both or so. For Fall pricey and subtle.

2014, it was The classic 25cm Birkin starts at the Hazlan, $9,400, more than double what it was a shoulder in 2000. Many exotic-skin styles reach bag that can well into five figures. (The new 40cm be seamlessly in crocodile is priced at $68,000.) And converted into a while other “quiet luxury” labels have crossbody, tote, emerged as competitors to Hermès, or clutch. At her no one else—not even Chanel—is able Fall 2015 debut, to justify those sorts of figures for its the company’s goods. newly appointed women’s creative Still, the company will continue to director, Nadege Vanshee-Cybulski, have to innovate. “Sooner or later, there introduced the Octogone bag, which looks will be another iconic product from exactly as it sounds. (It’s an octagon.) another iconic brand,” Ortelli says.

But it is the Birkin that remains the “No other brand has such a believable crown jewel. Indeed, a version featuring heritage,” Ortelli adds. “To trade up diamond-and-gold hardware recently from a Birkin, Victoria Beckham had to fetched $223,000 at auction in Hong open her own fashion brand.” It should Kong. So the brand is focusing on offering take her only a couple hundred years to more and rarer specialized options, all catch up.

JPlus June 21, 2015

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tasteBUD

Vegetarian

Harira Soup Words & Photos Theodora Hurustiati

Serves 3-4

In Morocco, its country of origin, this chickpea and lentil soup is eaten all year around. But there wouldn’t be Ramadhan without harira, when it’s usually served in a small bowl to break the fast with some bread, alongside a couple of dates, before continuing on to the more substantial main course.

The way the dish is prepared from family to family varies slightly, in terms of spices and meat used in the recipe. Although most recipes include lamb, beef and chicken are good alternatives.

Here I opted for the vegetarian version by omitting the meat. Do make a large batch; this soup is even tastier the day after! Store in refrigerator and reheat by adding a little extra water, as the soup will thicken when it rests.

Chickpeas and lentils are excellent sources of protein; this makes harira also an ideal sahur meal.

250 canned cooked chickpeas 30 g red lentils 200 g canned tomato pulp A small bunch of coriander leaves ½ onion 1 celery stalk 30 g grated ginger ½ teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper or chili powder 1 teaspoon turmeric powder ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon or nutmeg Black pepper, to taste 1 tomato 20 g broken vermicelli 1 tablespoon of flour Extra-virgin olive oil Salt 1 lemon

• Cut onion and celery into fine dice. De-seed and cube tomatoes into 0.5-cm pieces.

• Separate coriander leaves from the stalks, chop both making sure you reserve few leaves intact for garnish.

• Heat enough oil to cover the bottom of a pan over low heat. Sweat onion and celery along with coriander stalks and the spices until wilted and fragrant. Add a couple of tablespoons of water to prevent them from browning too much.

• Include lentils and mix for a minute or two before adding the tomato pulp. Pour in about one liter of cold water. Cover with lid and cook over medium heat for 15-20 minutes until the lentils start to become tender. Do not add salt yet as it will toughen the lentils’ skin.

• Insert chickpeas and season with salt. Simmer for further 5 minutes to develop the flavor. Add vermicelli and diced tomatoes during the last couple of minutes of cooking.

• Mix flour with couple of tablespoons of water and incorporate into the soup along with the coriander leaves. Stir until the soup has thickened and turns creamy.

• Serve hot with few drops of lemon juice.

Jakarta-born chef Theodora Hurustiati, a 12-year resident of Udine, Italy, was the runner-up in the TV cooking program La Scuola – Cucina di Classe (The School: Classy Cooking) in 2011.

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JPlus June 21, 2015

talk of the TOWN WRANGLER LAUNCHES NEW SHAPE KEEPER Jakarta The latest in Wrangler’s brand of Shape Keeper denim for women was released in Jakarta on June 9.

Made with high-density material, the super-stretch design of the new Shape Keepers denim ensures that the material remains in perfect shape – no matter how long you wear it – all while still ensuring maximum comfort for the wearer.

“Wrangler Shape Keeper provides a feminine and stylish shape that is specially designed to accompany both outdoor activities that require maximum functionality, as well as indoor ones that need more in the way of style and perfect appearances,” said Denny Prasetyo, brand manager for Wrangler Jeans Indonesia, during Shape Keeper’s launch event.

The new Wrangler Shape Keeper denim is available in all Wrangler Showrooms and department stores in Indonesia, with prices ranging from Rp 329,000 to Rp 429,000.

A FAIRY-TALE RIDE FOR KIDS, COURTESY OF GIK Grand Indonesia, Central Jakarta The Children’s Literature Lovers Group (KPBA) invited Suyadi, a renowned cultural figure, to present a day of fairy tales for children at the Galeri Indonesia Kaya (GIK) in Central Jakarta, on June 7.

Better known as Pak Raden, Suyadi is the man behind Si Unyil, the immensely popular children’s puppet show from the 1980s and 1990s.

The puppeteer entertained the crowd with renditions of famous tales, such as Si Kancil (The Deer).

“I hope children will develop an interest in reading as well as in telling the stories of their own homeland,” Suyadi said.

For more information ,visit indonesiakaya.com.

HIGH-END FASHION GETS A NEW ONLINE HOME Mega Kuningan, South Jakarta The launch of PARAPLOU.com on June 10 in Jakarta brings with it the hottest in both global and local brands.

PARAPLOU.com offers customers free returns, free delivery service throughout the nation as well as accepting a range of payment options. The premium online shopping site offers luxury fashion products at affordable prices, with a selection specifically tailored to Indonesian tastes and trends.

Previously unavailable brands, such as Nanushka, Cameo, Sass & Bide and Nicola Finetti, are making their Indonesian bow on the site.

“We are already seeing big orders from Sumatra, Kalimantan and Sulawesi,” said Bede Moore, PARAPLOU’s co-founder. “It is evident that Indonesia has a vibrant fashion community that extends across the archipelago.”

JAYA FESTIVAL SPREADS GOOD VIBES Rumah Ranadi, South Jakarta Life in Jakarta seems as frenetic on the weekends as it is on a workday. So to offer denizens of the city a more holistic approach to unwinding, the the Kalyana Shira Foundation organized the Jaya Festival on June 13.

Open to the public, the event was aimed at spreading positive vibes through yoga classes, art exhibits, music shows, film screenings and by offering healthy food, organic products and beauty pop-up treatments.

Highlights included an open mic stage with all-day acoustic guitar music as well as an open master’s class on how to compose a movie soundtrack with Citra Award-winning musician Aghi Narottama.

Among the movies screened was Lucky Kuswandi’s short The Fox Exploits the Tiger’s Might, fresh from its recent bow at the Cannes Film Festival’s Critic’s Week competition.

JPlus June 21, 2015

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trendDIAL

Statement maker Smartphones are ubiquitous in our day-to-day lives, so why not make yours a fashion statement? Samsung is teaming up with handpicked designer brands Swarovski, Montblanc, Romero Britto, Rebecca Minkoff and Burton to create custom accessories for the S6 and S6 Edge. Leaning toward design that is forwardthinking and a fusion of fashion and technology, each designer’s collection is unique. Swarovski has developed a series of colorful, premium, protective and crystal-embellished covers to reflect the different shades of glass on the S6 and the S6 Edge. Meanwhile, Romero Britto’s designs combine cubism with pop art, Montblanc offers sleek leather cases and flip covers and luxury handbag designer Rebecca Minkoff has created floral print protective covers and leather pouch designs to enhance Samsung’s newest flagship product.

take your Looking for something to tickle your fancy?

Haute gastronomy Expect haute prices at a cafe bearing the namesake of a haute-couture brand. The all-day eatery, newly opened at 121 Regent Street in London, is named Thomas’s, after founder Thomas Burberry. The menu features quintessentially British classics, from afternoon tea to lobster made from the finest seasonal ingredients from small farmers and artisan suppliers across the UK.

pick

More to love In a tribute to the plus-size knockout, designer Christian Siriano is teaming up plus-size retailer with Lake Bryant for the campaign #ImNoAngel, which celebrates the beauty of a healthy physique over model-thin frames. The winning designer from the fourth season of Project Runway is creating a capsule collection that pays homage to women of every shape or size. “In my opinion, fashion should never be defined by size,” Siriano said in a release.

“Regardless if it’s for the red carpet or a day at the office, every woman should feel stylish and comfortable in their clothes. I’m excited about this partnership with Lane Bryant because it allows me the opportunity to showcase my designs on the everyday woman and allow them the opportunity to feel as beautiful and fashionable as possible.”

Bridal blush Sex and the City star Sarah Jessica Parker is expanding SJP shoes with limited-edition bridal footwear that combine cream satin with strappy accents and jewel detailing for an elegant look. The heel of the shoe is swathed in cream lace. The shoes designed by the fashion icon are available online through e-retailers Zappos, Nordstrom, and more. + Kindra Cooper

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JPlus June 21, 2015