Jplus 2015 09 27 lores

Vol. 2 No. 44 I September 27 - october 3, 2015

EAT, SEE, SECRETS exploring solo

PARALLEL WORLDS

ART meets ARCHAEOLOGY

king of desserts

nomz 's pop-up dinner

TO LIVE AND DYE IN SURAKARTA Experience Solo's enduring love affair with batik

Editor's note

Check List

HIT THE ROAD It is a pleasure to publish our travel cover story about Surakarta – and its enduring love affair with batik – for this week’s issue.

The writer, Ganug Nugroho Adi, has been a long-time correspondent for The Jakarta Post in the Central Jakarta capital, writing with flair and deep knowledge about the city.

I’ve enjoyed his profiles of Surakarta’s sinden singers and traditional artists that visitors (especially those who do not speak Javanese) would never encounter, save for his stories.

I reached out to Ganug after reading one of his stories on Pasar Klewer.

He tells us that before the famed textile market was gutted by fire last year, it maintained a tiny “radio station” (see photo) broadcasting over the building’s

public address system.

A tiny staff working for nominal wages kept the spirit of the market cheerful, fielding song requests from vendors, who would also use the station to broadcast their orders for soto ayam or nasi goreng to vendors in other parts of the immense building.

It’s the type of story that an experienced journalist finds and weaves into an entertaining tale. We’re pleased to turn him loose in JPlus.

Also note a new twist on our Travel Planner page, which Ganug authored.

As part of it, we’d like you to send us your questions via social media or email.

Tag your travel questions #takemeawayJPlus and I’ll ask the team for some advice and publish the answers.

So please take note: Cover stories are in the pipeline for New Zealand and Oaxaca, Mexico. A little closer to home, our correspondents have tales to tell about journeys to the islands of Flores and Lampung, as well as to Bangkok. So let us know what you’d like to know about those destinations.

Enjoy the weekend!

Chris Razukas jplus@thejakartapost.com

mark my words

vanity of vanities A MEDITATION ON THE DISTINCTIONS BETWEEN LUXURY, STYLE AND VULGARITY WORDS willy wilson

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Of art and algorithms

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Nomz's Fantastic Four

ARTPLus

at your leisure

JPlus Team Editor Christian Razukas Art Director Budhi Hartono Marketing & Advertising Sales & Marketing Director Ady P. Pamungkas

ady.pamungkas@thejakartapost.com

There are two equations that every fashion-loving being must understand.

First, the opposite of luxury is not poverty; it is vulgarity. Second, style minus substance equals vulgarity.

I recall reading a fabulous tale of vulgarity involving Elizabeth Taylor and Princess Margaret, as told by the great Joan Collins. Legend has it that Liz and the Princess attended a fancy dinner in London.

Every woman at the table was ohhh-ing and ahhh-ing as they tried on Liz’s famous 68-carat ring from Tim Burton. But the royal wasn’t impressed, dismissing it was a vulgar display of wealth, to which the silver screen siren replied, “You know, you’re right. It is vulgar. Would you like to try it on?”

She then leaned over to the Princess and whispered “It’s not so vulgar now, is it?” This story reminds me of present day, self-styled Indonesian socialites.

In today’s Jakarta, we have way too many Liz Taylors and not enough Princess Margarets.

Dominant in the former camp are the four Cs – the corruptors, the criminals, the concubines and the celebrities, who together comprise a grouping of the country’s biggest and tackiest spenders.

Parading wealth – whether to a group of arisan members or gossip reporters – is almost their hobby.

However, while Ms. Taylor may have had Hollywood at her feet, self-proclaimed

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Indonesian socialites have Instagram, and by proxy, the entire world.

For these ladies, money is not an issue.

You see, ostentation is not a sin exclusive to Jakarta’s moneyed crowd. In other emerging economies like China, Russia and the Philippines; the expanding ranks of the nouveau riche are seeking ways to confirm their status.

As in the case of Indonesia, many seem unable to tell the difference between what’s stylish and what’s merely expensive – and ultimately what suits them. Such ostentation, of course, is the quickest way to look cheap.

This is where the lifestyle media should come in. Angelica Cheung of Vogue China certainly does her part to ensure that readers not only have the money, but also the taste and the understanding to enjoy luxury.

In an interview with The Guardian, Cheung said that it is easy to dismiss the Chinese and Asian markets as ‘new money’ peasants, but the fact is that this is where luxury products sell the most. She has taken it upon herself to educate her readers about fashion – and to ensure that they understand the Western references that constitute the luxury world they crave.

“You need to explain swinging London, Mary Quant, The Beatles and why these people made a difference. If you don’t explain, they’re just clothes,” says Cheung.

Reading a little about Coco Chanel might be a good thing for these

Instagraming social butterflies.

Start with the little black dress, which emerged in during the American Depression era. It was the look through which Chanel channelled her social consciousness.

She advised her wealthy clients to dress as plainly as their maids, throwing in cheap costume jewellery to go with it.

Chanel also told them to wear their real jewellery as if it was junk. Her radical ideas constituted fashion. Her idea of a fashionable living implied knowledge, taste and a sense of individuality, without which, her little black dress would have remained simply a dress.

Unfortunately we don’t see much of depth in today’s fashion crowd, especially in Indonesia (thanks Kim K!).

Living fashionably in this day and age is about stuffing the closet with branded items and letting the whole world know about it. But worrying about social status and a stranger’s opinion about your latest handbags is démodé, darling.

Now don’t get me wrong - I’m all for affluence. I’m neither new nor old moneyed. Heck, I’m not moneyed at all.

But I know that the sartorial dialect of status assumes many voices, and that you have the control over the pitch.

Mark My Words focuses on food, fashion, travel and parenting on a rotating basis each week.

Marketing Executive Deasy Rasjid

deasy@thejakartapost.com

@JPlusSunday JPlusSunday

SundayJplus jakplus.com

ON THE COVER A batik maker rinses a piece of dyed cloth in Surakarta, Central Java.

Photo Ganug Nugroho Adi

talk of the town AMERICAN EAGLE LANDS AT GRAND INDONESIA

GIK FOLLOWS TRAIL OF THE GODS

HERMÈS’ SWANKY SCARF POP UP

Grand Indonesia, Central Jakarta

Grand Indonesia, Central Jakarta American Eagle Outfitters (AEO) has just opened an outlet at the Grand Indonesia shopping mall in Central Jakarta, making it their second store in Indonesia.

Located at the first floor of the West Mall, the new store features the latest from AEO’s Fall 2015 collection, which is inspired by 1970s-style bohemian culture and the American Southwest.

This season is also seeing the store showing off the company’s new Denim X collection for women and Flex Denim for men. Both of these lines of jeans come equipped with high degrees of flexibility, resilience and comfort.

Everything, from super-skinny cuts to original straight fits, and from “jeggings” to boyfriend jeans are available locally. There is something for everyone at the new AEO store.

Keeping in line with its month-long theme of showing off the culture of Bali and Nusa Tenggara, Galeri Indonesia Kaya (GIK) recently joined forces with musicians Mia Ismi, Berto Pah and VocaGroove to give its guests a performance featuring the best in traditional and popular music from the regions.

The collaboration culminated in a 60-minute show on Sept. 20 titled “On The Trail of the Gods” at GIK’s auditorium at Grand Indonesia in Central Jakarta.

The concert saw Berto Pah playing the sasando, a traditional musical instrument from Nusa Tenggara with Mia Ismi on violin and vocals.

Meanwhile, VocaGroove wowed audiences with songs such as “Losong” and “Lembayung Bali”.

Senayan Central Business District Hermès offered guests a delightful way to experience its silk scarves at a luxurious pop-up event called “La Maison des Carrés”, or the House of Silks, on Sep. 15 at the Senayan City Promenade.

Evoking a playful spirit, the pop-up served up coloring books, table-soccer games as well as a chance to see some of the brand’s signature silks.

The experience deliberately evokes the La Maison des Carrés website, which was crafted by Pierre Marie and Bali Barret, who were said to be inspired by a vision of the perfect physical store, where visitors wander through a series of everchanging rooms, including a treasure chamber, a saloon and color-mixing kitchen.

travel tips

intel, tips and things to do for travellers in motion SEE JAPAN FROM A CAT’S POV To be filed under C for cute: Tourism bosses in one Japanese prefecture have come up plan to draw more visitors: a local Google-style street view for cats.

Billed as a world first, officials in Onomichi launched an online map exploring the streets of the port city from the purr-spective of a four-pawed visitor.

The map has as its avatar Lala, a fluffy kitty with emerald eyes who lives with a local hair salon owner. Viewers can see what Lala sees from her low-level perspective.

While the map currently covers just two streets, plans to expand are in the works using a camera attached to a stick that hovers 20 centimeters above the ground. -AFP

ACCORHOTELS OPENS UP SHOP IN IRAN

Iran’s landmark nuclear deal isn’t just good for politics. It’s also good for tourists, as can be seen in the way in which AccorHotels has set its sights on growth in the country.

The French hospitality giant has agreed to use its Novotel and Ibis brands for two hotels it manages at Tehran’s main international airport.

The hotels, a mid-scale Novotel IKIA with 296 rooms and an economy Ibis IKIA with 196 rooms, are linked to the main terminal of Imam Khomeini International Airport.

Aimed at both international and Iranian business travelers, they will be equipped with meeting rooms, conference spaces and spas, fitness suites and swimming pools. -AFP

BREATHE EASY IN SHANGHAI

When you think Disneyland, you typically come up with images of kids enjoying the rides, sights and sounds of this iconic children’s

theme park.

You don’t think of air pollution, which is why there’s some good news for themepark fans coming out of China.

Families and travelers in Shanghai planning to visit the Chinese megalopolis’ soon-to-open Disney park can enjoy their trips without worrying for their health.

The commercial hub plans to shut 153 polluting companies near Disney’s planned theme park to help improve the surrounding environment.

The government will close the industrial firms – described as “high polluting, high consumption and low efficiency” – by the end of 2016 to welcome the opening of the Disney park, due early in the year. -AFP

local TUNES AT TAIWANese AIRPORT

Sampling cultures on the go has become much easier for those who don’t have the time for visits to historic landmarks or tourist attractions, thanks to Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport and its newly-opened music lounge.

The lounge features local music and offers passengers a quick chance to experience a taste of Taiwanese culture before they move on to other destinations.

Located in Terminal 2, the lounge is divided into different blocks, providing multimedia services to allow interaction for people waiting for their flights.

Passengers can read about the history of Taiwan’s music development, listen to clips and watch videos.

Even if you can’t visit Taiwan’s National Palace Museum or Taroko National Park, you can still learn something new!

–ANN/China Post

JPlus September 27, 2015

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in the SPIRIT

Crafting the Future HENNESSY UNVEILS A LIMITED EDITION BOTTLING THAT CELEBRATES THE 250 YEARS OF CRAFTSMANSHIP BEHIND OF ONE OF THE WORLD’S FINEST COGNACS.

Words Aulia R. Sungkar Photos courtesy of Hennessy

Maison Hennessy (the House of Hennessy), a creator of famous cognac brand Hennessy, is celebrating 250 years of craftsmanship by releasing its 250 Collector Blend, a limited-edition bottling born of select aging in 250 specially constructed casks.

Hennessey produced only 250 barrels of the celebratory blend, which pays tribute to the founding father, Richard Hennessy, whose journey transcends the centuries.

The artistic bottling of this limited-edition blend is also an appreciation of the long relationship between Hennessey and the world of arts.

If we set aside the big anniversary, the 250 Collector Blend is all about Yann Fillioux, who is a seventh generation master blender. He has been with the House of Hennessy for 50 years.

Fillioux spent four years crafting the celebratory blend, combining 100 of the highest-quality eaux de vie, or double distilled white wine, made from locally grown ugni blanc grapes.

The blend was stored in French oak casks in a mild, humid climate in Hennessy’s sprawling cellars near the

Here's a toast The world’s leading Scottish single malt whisky distillery greeted Jakarta’s spirit drinkers at a recent event titled “Toast The Macallan”.

Taking place last month in The Energy Building in the Senayan Central Business District, the event was the first of its kind to be held in Indonesia’s capital.

Four different single malts were featured: The Macallan Sherry Oak 12 Years Old, The Macallan Fine Oak 15 Years Old, The Macallan Whisky Makers Edition and The Macallan Rare Cask.

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banks of the Charente River in the city of Cognac in western France.

Crafted to perfect the spirit of cognac, the 250 Collector Blend contains smooth, amber colored brandy that has a spicy aroma with opening notes of bitter orange, peppermint and a bit taste of honey. There is slight sweetness in the drink, yet the overall taste is considered bold.

Timed with the release of the limited edition blend is the 250th anniversary celebrations for the brand across the globe, in cities such as Guangzhou, Jakarta, New York and Paris.

With a signature message of “Crafting the Future since 1765,” the celebration was also where the House of Hennessy explored the four corners of the world to expand the business in more than 130 countries, including Indonesia.

“In general, all of Hennessy’s products

are made based on our three pillars, namely selection, maturation and blending. These three pillars are also the basis of crafting the 250 Collector Blend,” said Hennessy ambassador Jean-Michel Cochet, who was in Jakarta last month attending a gala dinner commemorating Hennessy’s anniversary.

Held at the Raffles Hotel, the gala dinner paid homage not only to the brand’s long legacy and history, but also to three Indonesians who are crafting the future of the arts in the nation: choreographer Fajar Satriadi, singer Dira Soegandi and fashion designer Auguste Soesastro.

The special evening saw Hennessy bestow “Hennessy Crafting the Future” awards onto them.

Discover a unique whisky tasting that will let you savor the world of single malt scotch whiskies.

Words Aulia R. Sungkar Photos courtesy of Edrington Singapore

Previously conducted in China, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Korea and Singapore, the event invited the Jakarta’s crème de la crème to enjoy every dram of The Macallan.

“For the first time, Toast The Macallan Jakarta demonstrates the art of appreciating whisky and showcases what gives this single malt whisky its distinctive character, flavor and color, making it so precious,” said Agus Budiono, country manager of Edrington Singapore for Indonesia.

Scoring a success in the fine craftsmanship of single malt whiskies, The Macallan is currently operated under the Edrington Group, which is in charge of marketing and distribution.

At Toast The Macallan Jakarta, visitors saw what lies behind The Macallan’s alluring collection of single malt whiskies.

Tasting Notes

Sherry Oak 12 Years Old

Color: Rich gold.

Aroma: Vanilla with a hint of ginger, dried fruits, sherry sweetness and wood smoke.

Palate: Smooth, with rich dried fruits and sherry, balanced with wood smoke and spice.

Finish: Sweet toffee, dried fruits, with wood smoke and spice.

Fine Oak 15 Years Old

Color: Rich straw.

Aroma: Sublime and full, with a hint of cinnamon and rose.

Palate: Intense chocolate, with a hint of orange and raisin.

Finish: Lingering with a hint of chocolate, orange and dried fruits.

Whisky Makers Edition

Color: Full golden.

Aroma: Ginger, fresh fruits, toffee with a hint of clove, nutmeg, polished oak.

Palate: A burst of spice & fruit, with a

subtle note of charred oak to linger.

Finish: Good length, soft and very slightly smoky.

Rare Cask

Color: Mahogany.

Aroma: Quite vanilla, with a hint of chocolate, a sweet ensemble of apple, lemon and orange.

Taste: Vanilla and chocolate in the background.

Finish: Light citrus zest.

a la mode

Past Forward SOMETIMES your BEST ACCESSORY IS NATIONAL PRIDE Words Willy Wilson

Photos: AFP, Jakarta Fashion Week & courtesy of Titi DJ

T

here was a time not so long ago when batik was the least fashionable item in our closets.

The idea of incorporating the traditional textile into our everyday looks was off-putting, not the least because of awkward combinations, busy motifs and bright colors.

Today, batik is the new (little black) dress. A host of designers have helped popularize heritage textiles among sartorially savvy and brand-conscious Indonesians.

“Batik, ikat and songket have rich and varied histories that spanned several centuries and have travelled across continents.

Who is responsible for preserving them? I guess the answer is us,” veteran designer Carmanita told JPlus in an interview published several weeks ago.

Carmanita, along with the late Irwan Tirta, Edo Hutabarat and Josephine Komara, better known as Obin, have been exploring and preserving Indonesian textiles long before it was fashionable to do so.

However, Carmanita is uncomfortable with the word “traditional”. Her collections over the years have been anything but.

In her designs, batik fabrics are slipped into, pulled up to the waist, folded to cinch the body or wrapped snuggly around the chest.

While Carmanita, a business graduate from the University of San Francisco, looked to her own backyard for design inspirations upon returning from the US; Solo-born designer Sapto Djojokartiko went in the opposite direction.

Growing up surrounded by batik artisans, he has said that he was always fascinated with Western fashion. So he created evening gowns and daywear pieces with a modern Western sensibility.

But there’s always been a subtle hint of batik in his designs. He doesn’t use batik cloth, but he uses batik patterns to make embroideries and laser cuts.

“Batik is a big part of who I am. But as a designer, I know that I needed to have a modern finishing to what essentially – philosophically – batik. Such a contemporary interpretation of batik thrills me. I would like to apply a similar method in

exploring other types of heritage fabrics, such as songket and ikat,” he said.

The result is a fiercely modern reincarnation of your grandma’s batik – pants, gowns, coats and mini-dresses that are both stylish and wearable. The best accessory to go with it?

National pride.

Another designer giving a modern makeover to traditional clothing is Rama Dauhan. The ESMOD graduate says that exploring the legacy of Indonesian textiles has been part of his own personal journey of understanding Indonesia and himself.

His rendition of traditional wedding costumes from Central Java, South Sulawesi and West Sumatra has gained praise from his fashion-loving friends.

“I am fascinated by the variety of Indonesian

heritage textiles. In using these textiles, I remain respectful of the traditions and material characteristics. I’m not intimidated by them, and I certainly didn’t set any limits as to how I use them” he says, adding, “I was just thinking the other day […] has anyone made a boxy top out of songket or tapis Lampung?”

Known for mixing classic cuts with unconventional, exaggerated volumes, Rama makes designs championing an understated chic that defies the well-puttogether looks preferred

by Jakarta’s who’s who.

While there’s no denying that

Indonesians developed a serious case of batik fever only following Malaysia’s claims over several motifs - followed by UNESCO recognition of the Indonesian batik - it is the local designers who have been responsible for popularizing them among the nation’s trendsetters.

But batik isn’t just about fashion, says seasoned host and batik enthusiast Wethandrie Ramadhan, better known as Iwet. “UNESCO designated Indonesian batik as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity, because batik is about philosophy, stories and techniques – it isn’t just about the textiles,” he says.

Oscar Lawalata stands out among the many young designers who are dedicated to preserving Indonesia’s textile legacy. While he made his name creating a ready-to-wear line for young people, all he ever wanted to do is was immerse himself in the richness of traditional textiles.

Under his Oscar Lawalata Culture label, the designer runs four brands dedicated to traditional cloth: The Bodo, Ikat, Lokchan and Katunkatunku. The one that has earned rave reviews is The Bodo, which explores the bright-colored square-cut dresses native to South Sulawesi.

“We don’t expose the body, but we expose the personality, and we do that through the variety of colors we use, in the details of each piece, in the cut, the collar and the hem. We don’t want to exploit the female form,” the designer told The Jakarta Post last year.

And speaking of color, Titi DJ says that why she likes Indonesian textiles. Her personal favorite is Balinese songket, which she wore proudly during a 2013 performance in Singapore.

Titi is one of the first contemporary performers to use heritage textiles on stage – something that has complimented her theatrical performance and costume.

Asked about her opinions on traditional fabric trends, the singer says: “Batik motifs on modern clothing spell versatility, which means you can wear them as both casual and formal clothes.”

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cover story

The garb of

kings AFTER AN EMPIRE FELL, SURAKARTA DEVELOPED ITS OWN UNIQUE TAke ON BATIK

WORDS AND PHOTOS Ganug Nugroho Adi

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cover story

WHERE TO GO Surakarta is a virtual batik paradise. Here’s our guide for finding the best of the traditional textile.

Pasar Klewer Pasar Klewer on Jl. Dr. Rajiman was the largest batik shopping center in Asia – and probably the world – before it was gutted by fire in 2014. The wholesale prices that were on offer at the market made it a destination for the savvy tourist and buyers throughout the archipelago.

Look for the market to reopen after renovations are complete in late 2016. In the interim, check out the emergency batik market in the north square of the Keraton Surakarta, around 200 meters south of Gladag traffic circle on Jl. Slamet Riyadi.

Kampung Batik Laweyan Kampung Batik Laweyan, or the Laweyan batik village, is a cultural icon and another favorite destination for batik hunters, who can choose from around 300 shops, many of which are showrooms for local small-scale manufacturers.

As always, bargain hard. Visitors can also watch batik making firsthand in this heritage district, located on Jl. Dr Rajiman about 500 meters south of the Purwosari traffic circle.

“C

ommon people are not allowed to wear palace-style batik, since court batik is only designed for the royal family,” according to Kanjeng Gusti Pangeran Haryo Puger, the acting Pakubuwono XIII, or the traditional ruler of Surakarta.

“The public can only use basic patterns,” Buger said.

Batik is serious business in this Central Javan city, which has been the seat of the Pakubuwono susuhunan (or kings) since the dynasty was established after the end of the Mataram kingdom in the 18th century.

In those days, court batik was crafted by princesses and palace servants for the exclusive use of the royal family. Since then, however, home businesses specializing in making batik for the general public have sprung up, centered on four areas of Surakarta: Karanganyar, Sragen, Sukoharjo and Wonogiri.

The small-scale batik makers have kept this textile tradition alive for centuries.

Kampung Batik Kauman,

POINTS OF ORIGIN

In 1755, Dutch colonists brokered the Giyanti Treaty, which divided the Mataram Kingdom into the Kasunanan Surakarta and Kasultanan Yogyakarta.

The treaty, named after the village where it was signed, also divided the wealth of the Mataram between the two successor kingdoms.

Royal heirlooms like weapons, gamelan instruments and horse-drawn coaches were shared equally.

However, the whole of the royal wardrobe of the Mataram Keraton (Palace) – including an extensive collection handmade batik - was taken by Prince Mangkubumi. He later assumed the title of Hamengkubuwono I as the first king of Yogyakarta.

Since the rulers in Surakarta did not inherit any of the elaborately crafted court batik, Pakubuwono III launched a cultural revolution, inviting the region’s best batik makers to create a new version of batik with distinctive motifs for the Surakarta palace.

This area, located not too far from the Grand Mosque of Keraton Surakarta, also has a host of small showrooms, although most of the batik on offer comes in blacks and browns with modern motifs. The Paguyuban Batik Kauman association, on Jl Cakra 14 Kauman has three showrooms.

House of Danar Hadi Located in the integrated heritage and batik tourism complex owned by PT Batik Danar Hadi at Jl. Slamet Riyadi, the House of Danar Hadi has a batik museum with a collection of over 10,000 batik pieces and a shop with first quality products worth millions of rupiah.

Don’t miss Pusat Grosir Solo and the Beteng Trade Center in Gladag offer inexpensive batik at wholesale and retail prices; while Lumbung Batik, at Jl. Agus Salim 17, Sondakan, about 300 meters from Kampung Batik Laweyan, has around 50 batik showrooms set up by the Surakarta Batik Entrepreneurs Cooperative (PPBS).

According to batik observer Ronggojati Sugiyatno, Surakarta-style batik is dominated by sogan, a brownish color derived from the bark of soga tingi trees.

“Sogan comes in light browns, dark browns, yellowish browns, blackish browns and reddish browsn, all of which characterize the batik from Surakarta and Yogyakarta,” Sugiyatno said.

However, he adds, Yogyakarta batik is predominantly comprised of dark brown/blacks and whites, in comparison with Surakarta’s orange-brown or plain brown color schemes.

“In their motifs, some of Surakarta’s designs such as the Parang Kusumo, Sidoasih, Sidoluruh, Truntum, Kawung and Sekar Jagat are not found in Yogyakarta,” Sugiyatno said.

“The motifs have inspired modern batik products.”

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CLASSIC STYLE

The classic batik motifs of Surakarta reflect a philosophy of daily life, ranging from birth to marriage to death.

Certain patterns are only worn on certain occasions.

Among Surakarta’s best-known motifs are Parang, Lereng, Kawung and Sawat – all of which adorn the court batik worn exclusively by the susuhunan and his family.

The four motifs are also called larangan, or restricted, designs that palace servants and commoners cannot wear.

Two famous batik centers in Surakarta outside the keraton are Kampung Batik Kauman and Kampung Batik Laweyan. Batik makers can also be found nearby in Kliwonan and Pilang villages in Sragen, and in Girilayu village in Karanganyar.

These centers have produced hundreds of motifs in classic and contemporary styles that are all unique to

Surakarta. However “modern” the batik that comes from these places, traces of classic motifs can still be seen.

Independent batik makers, following an order from the place, started making larangan batik, creating a motif called saudagaran, which was a riff on royal batik that was favored by the traders and merchant princes of old, Sugiyatno said.

“At that time, only merchants could afford to buy expensive batik, which prompted batik makers to redesign larangan motifs for society at large,” he says.

Another version called petani (“farmer’s” or “rural” batik) also appeared featuring more modest pattern inspired by natural scenery, trees, flowers and animals, while still retaining some palace-style patterns.

The owner of Batik Danarhadi, Santosa Dulah, said the rural batik was mostly made outside Surakarta, like Bayat (Klaten), Pilang (Sragen), Matesih (Karanganyar) and Bekonang (Sukoharjo).

“Today’s modern batik motifs originate in previous creations, covering court, saudagaran and petani styles,” he says.

On Parade

In Surakarta, batik is not just on display at shops and kiosks. It’s something you can experience on the streets courtesy of these three unique festivals or communities.

Solo Batik Carnival

First up is the granddaddy of them all: The Solo Batik

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Carnival.

It’s inspired by the Jember Fashion Carnival (JFC), which was founded by Dynand Fariz, who designed “The Chronicle of Borobudur”, the outfit worn by Miss Indonesia Elvira Devinamira that won the Best National Costume award at the Miss Universe beauty pageant in January.

Like its counterpart event in East Java, the Solo Batik Carnival is a festive street parade, featuring dancers wearing incredibly elaborate costumes that would be at home in Rio di Jainero, save for their batik motifs.

The carnival, which marked its most recent iteration in June, was the result of months of hard work by eager participants who spent many long hours at home designing and sewing their costumes. Typically, those in costume take to the streets for a celebration that runs for six kilometers, from Jl. Slamet Riyadi to Surakarta City Hall. solobatikcarnival.com Red Batik Solo

Also noteworthy is Red Batik Solo, which is typically presented during the Vastenburg Carnival, which runs out of the colonial-era fort of the same name on Jl. Mayor Sunaryo near Pasar Kliwon. Costumes for the show combine batiks in bold reds combines with wicker bamboo – hence the name. Unlike the carnival, the Vastenburg has as its main focus the fort’s importance as a cultural heritage building. @RedBatikSolo or @VastenburgC

Solo Batik Fashion

Next up is Solo Batik Fashion, a fashion show presenting the finest in couture batik from Surakarta and beyond on stages set at some of the city’s landmarks, such as the Gladag traffic circle, Ngasopuro Market and the Vastenburg Fort. @solobatikfash on Facebook or solobatikfashion.com

cover story

At that time, only merchants could afford to buy expensive batik, which prompted batik makers to redesign larangan motifs for society at large.

All aboard!

While in Surakarta, why not see the city in a unique way, courtesy of a steampowered, wood-fueled 19th century train named the Sepur Kluthuk Jaladara?

Your 3-hour journey starts from Purwosari Station, travelling about 6 kilometers along Jl. Slamet Riyadi, the city’s main street, to Sangkrah Station.

The train, launched in 2009 by President Joko “Jokowi” Widodo, who was then mayor of Surakarta, makes stops at several heritage spots, such as Loji Gandrung, or mayor’s residence; the Danar Hadi Batik Museum; the Kampung Batik Kauman and the Keraton Kasunanan Surakarta.

Travel, of course, is in style.

The train’s two coaches, made in 1906 from teak, hold about 80 people.

The locomotive will burn about 3 cubic meters of wood per journey.

Passengers are offered a welcome drink of jamu, along with well-known traditional snacks such as onde-onde (sticky rice balls with bean paste), getuk (cassava cake with palm sugar), serabi (rice flour pancakes) and klepon (sticky rice balls with palm sugar syrup).

While the train typically makes trips on weekends, make your reservations in advance. Schedules are adjusted to meet the schedule of state railway operator PT Kereta Api Indonesia (KAI) and tickets are typically sold as part of a package tour.

Prices can range from about Rp 40,000 to Rp 290,000, depending on the size of your group.

For more information, visit keretauapsolo.com.

As you eat, enjoy a musical performance from a traditional zither-like siteran player who will be accompanied by traditional Javanese pesinden (singers) offering their renditions of Javanese poetry songs and popular hits such as “Bengawan Solo” (Solo River), a local favorite.

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9

cover story

Surakarta: Confidential WORDS ganug nugroho adi ILLUSTRATIONS Budhi Button

Have questions about what lies over the horizon? We’ve got some answers, advice and expertise.

Send your travel questions to us at jplus@thejakartapost.com or connect with us on Twitter (@JPlusSunday) or Facebook (sundayjplus). Tag your questions #takemeawayJplus.

Here’s our tips for the city of Surakarta, Central Java.

SEE

What do tourists usually don’t see in Solo that they should?

While Indonesia doesn’t have a rock-n-roll hall of fame, Lokananta studio in downtown Solo is the next best thing.

The nation’s first music studio has more than 40,000 vinyl records on display and a store selling some of the rarest recordings in the archipelago.

What is a “must-do” in Solo?

It’s a cliche, but you really should hire a becak, or pedicab driver, to take you around the city.

Negotiation is essential, but trips can be arranged directly with a driver starting at Rp 10,000, or a flat Rp 200,000 fee for a six-hour period.

EAT

What’s Solo’s “signature” dish?

After you’ve had your fill of Central Java’s obvious favorite dish, gudeg, or sweet unripened stewed jackfruit; get ready for some tengkleng goat soup. We recommend Mbah Sadhi by the Tirtonad Terminal, but there no end to restaurants serving it up.

Best place for a night owl?

Try Mushro (short for the Music Room) at the Sunan Hotel or Chillax Acoustic Lounge, a relative newcomer. But don’t miss your chance to eat at an angkringan! The late-night sidewalk cafes are literally on the sidewalk, serving nasi kuning (rice in small portions suitable for a cat), tea and snacks.

SECRETS

What is overrated?

As much as we hate to say it, you don’t really need to wait until 2 a.m. to enjoy your gudeg ceker (with chicken necks) in Margoyudan. Head for an angkrigan instead and enjoy late-night tea and snacks on a bamboo mat on the street.

Why is Surakarta called Solo?

The city takes its nickname from the Solo River, which runs through it. Bonus fact: About 10 kilometers away from Surakarta is the town of Kartasura, which was the Matraman capital before it was sacked by the Dutch in 1744. However, we’re not sure if its nickname is Loso.

What’s the best temple to visit?

A visitor to Surakarta is spoiled for choice when it comes to temple hopping. Why not try Cetho Temple, with its erotic celebration of Hinduism, or nearby Sukuh Temple?

Both are on the slopes of Mount Lewu in Karanganyar.

BONUS Museum Sangrian This is a day trip outside Surakarta, but worth it for those interested in the origins of species.

On display are the fossilized remains of several homo erectus who lived in the area almost a million years ago.

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What’s the best restaurant in Solo?

Another tough question! For the best in traditional Javanese food in a traditional setting, I’d go with two places. Restaurant Nikmat Rasa, on Jl. Veteran, and Adem Ayem, on Jl. Brigjen Slamet Riyadi.

Solo Airport The city is served

by Adisumarmo International Airport. You might not notice this from the ground, but the parking lot has a lot of curves. From above, the parking area takes the shape of a gununggan, a wayang kulit puppet. Check it out on Google Maps.

What’s your favorite place, really?

We’re partial to Omah Sinten, which bills itself as a heritage hotel and restaurant. Its outdoor restaurant is typically Javanese, under a joglo, and faces the Mangkunegaran Keraton. It’s a pleasant oasis after exploring the city by foot.

Night Market Make time for a visit to Gladag Langen Bogan (Galabo) in front Pusat Grosir Solo. At night, the streets are closed and almost 100 vendors are selling some of the city’s most delicious cuisine. There’s table- and lesehan-style seating and frequent musical performances.

firm FAVORITES

How Your Cashmere Is Made With fast-fashion chains such as Uniqlo and Joe Fresh selling discount cashmere in bulk, it’s hard to tell the good stuff from the junk.

WORDS Maura Walters PHOTOS BloomberG

Buying Tips

O

ne of the rarest natural fibers in the world, cashmere’s not a wool but a hair, which accounts for its unmistakable feel. Most cashmere comes from goats in the Gobi Desert, which stretches from Northern China into Mongolia. Beneath the animals’ coarse hair lies an undercoat of superfine fibers concentrated on the underbelly.

In May and June, when the goats molt, local workers comb the belly hair, sort it by hand, and send it to a dehairing facility (usually in China) to be cleaned and refined.

Then it’s baled and delivered to Europe, where it’s spun into fine yarn and sold to designers for roughly US$114 a pound.

With adequate supplies of topnotch raw materials becoming scarce in Asia, Afghanistan has become an unlikely exporter: The country is rich in unadulterated product. As China increasingly blends different qualities of cashmere to achieve volume, Afghan goat farmers are filling the demand for completely pure knits.

The Cashmere Goat

Illustration: Rosie Toole for Bloomberg Pursuits Origin: Northern China, Mongolia, Afghanistan Average weight: females, 88 lbs.; males, 132 lbs.

Typical yield of fiber from one goat: 180g to 250g

1. Check the Weight A garment made of two plies, meaning it was knitted from double strands of yarn, or more, will often be longer-lasting. The heavier the sweater, the warmer (and more expensive) it will be.

2. Beware of Pilling Premium cashmere is made from the long hairs of goats—and it’s combed, never sheared. Shearing yields shorter fibers that are prone to pilling. Before you buy, rub the surface of a garment with the palm of your hand and see if fibers begin to roll up and/ or shed. This is an indication that there’s excess short-fiber content.

3. Look for a Tight Knit Durable cashmere is tightly woven. If the construction feels loose, the garment will lose its shape quickly. Gauge quality by holding a piece up to the light—if you can see through, it probably won’t be wearable for longer than a season.

4. Consider the Color Heavily dyed fiber loses some of its softness. Chinese white from Inner Mongolia is regarded as the finest-quality cashmere because it’s not subjected to coloring or bleach. Outer Mongolia is developing a niche in natural cashmere in camel and brown hues.

5. Read the Label A garment labeled 70 percent cashmere/30 percent wool frequently contains no more than 5 percent cashmere.

The US Federal Trade Commission mandates only pure cashmere sweaters can be labeled “100 Percent Cashmere.” If that’s not indicated on the garment, move along.

How to Wash It

1. Step-by-step guidance from knitwear designer Margaret O’Leary 2. Launder cashmere at home, always inside out. Washing adds moisture back to the fabric; dry cleaning stiffens it.

3. Use the delicate cycle. Two teaspoons of The Laundress Wool & Cashmere Shampoo is enough.

4. Put your garment in the dryer for five minutes on the coolest setting. Then spread it on a flat towel to air dry.

5. Never hang anything made of cashmere. Hangers will stretch the fibers.

Faubourg SaintHonoré, +33 1 49 26 00 81; brunellocucinelli. com

New Delhi

Kashmir Loom This small company has hand-woven goods from the hairs of Kashmir goats for European fashion houses for decades.

It opened a store in July, where you’ll find gorgeous scarves and pashminas.

21 Nizamuddin East, +91 11 2435 8683, kashmirloom.com printed scarves, have a hint of the unexpected. Amiraplatz 1 80333, +49 89 23 88 55 88, irisvonarnim.de

New York City

Christopher Fischer Fischer uses traditional Scottish knitting techniques and the finest yarns from Inner Mongolia.

The cashmere comes in a range of colors and styles, from navy pocketed dresses to cream-colored baby blankets.

1225 Madison Ave., 212-831-8880; christopherfischer.com

Milan

Massimo Alba Alba’s lightweight yet warm sweaters are hand-dyed in a formula that’s so eco-friendly, he says you can drink the water at the end of the process. His secret house weave yields a chic, faded-out color.

Via Brera, 8, 20121, +39 02 7209 3420; massimoalba.com

Paris

Brunello Cucinelli Cucinelli is known for his drapey cardigans that retail for $1,500. If the price sounds steep, it’s because he keeps his business local; 100 percent of Cucinelli’s clothing is made in Italy. 217 Rue du

London

Pringle of Scotland Scotland’s limestone-rich water makes for extra-soft, sturdy cashmere. Pringle has been a mainstay in Queen Elizabeth’s wardrobe since 1947, thanks to its classic argyle twinsets and crisp knee-length skirts. 94 Mount St., +44 20 30 11 00 31; pringlescotland.com

Where to Get It Munich

Iris von Arnim Von Arnim was the first to introduce luxury cashmere to Germany back in 1980. Her designs, such as double-faced winter coats and Bauhaus-inspired

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S E E I N G

T H E

B I G

P I C T U R E

Art and archeology collide in Hong Kong WORDS Prasiddha Gustanto

Indonesian artists and scientists joined hands educate the public last month with the “Parallel Worlds: Where Art & Archeology Collide” exhibition in Hong Kong.

The 18-day event weaved large-scale fossil reproductions, contemporary photography and sculptures into a cohesive narrative aimed at giving visitors an insight into Earth’s natural history.

The exhibition, held at The Rotunda in Hong Kong, was done in collaboration with the Bandung Geology Museum of Indonesia

and featured the works of Indonesian artists Kinez Riza and Rudi Hartono.

Assembling 21 exhibits covering a number of geologic periods, the exhibition featured a reproduction of an elephant’s head based on a fossil estimated to be at least 165,000 years old.

Also on display was a replica of a perisphinctes supremus sutner, an important ammonite fossil dating from between 145.5 million and 161.2 million

years ago.

The fossil replicas from the Bandung museum are archaeological discoveries that represent significant contributions to the world of science, affecting the study of evolutionary biology, paleontology and anthropology.

The elephant head on display was presented as a potential answer to the socalled missing link puzzle, regarding the interactions between early human, Homo erectus soloensis (Solo Man) and the animal kingdom, as well as the environment.

The ammonite fossil was of similar importance, specifically when it comes to paleontology, serving as a key agedetermining reference, and has used for reconstructing ancient marine assemblages.

In parallel to the presentation of these relics of natural history, artists Kinez Riza and Rudi Hartono created and shared

artwork responding to the phenomenal findings derived from the study of the fossils.

Kinez is a multi-disciplinary artist whose works combine photography, film, objects and artifacts.

Meanwhile, Rudi is a sculptor who exclusively utilizes stone as a medium to explore the proliferation of civilization and the role of humanity in the natural world.

In their eyes, art can be used in the service of science to help people understand the importance of geo-conservation issues.

One of Kinez’s exhibits at Parallel Worlds, for example, was a photograph that showed cave art from Sulawesi that dates to 40,000 years ago. The handstencil shown in the photo is considered to be one of the oldest paintings in the world.

“If we understand that our culture is 40,000 years old, perhaps we would learn about ‘the depth of the present moment’ – and what it took to get us here,” Kinez said.

Rudi, similarly, says that the rocks that have been his life’s work can tell stories about life and unveil its mysteries.

“A gemstone itself, without the touch of humans, is a form of art from nature that takes million years [to form]. A special form that has its own beauty, each is special with its own characteristics,” Rudi said.

“By presenting the beauty, the value, and the potential that lies beneath [this] geoheritage, I hope people can understand we need to conserve our earth and the materials within.”

By juxtaposing archeology and art, "Parallel Worlds" aimed to dispel the myth that art and science are at odds.

The exhibits on display showed that scientific resources can be represented artistically as a form of representation that explores the link between the past and the present in ways that generate new ways of seeing the world.

NEWS FOR YOU

OZASIA WELCOMES EKO KURNIAWAN

ADE DARMAWAN SHOWS OFF some MAGIC

This year’s OzAsia Festival in Adelaide, Australia, features a large-scale outdoor work designed by Yogyakarta-based Eko Nugroho that has been hung across the colonial façade entrance of The Art Gallery of South Australia.

Titled “Mooi Anomaly”, the bold and colorful work was designed as a beacon signaling the arrival of contemporary Indonesian art in Adelaide.

The work comprises five gigantic illuminated lanterns decorated with batik and includes references to key dates in recent Indonesian history.

The lanterns celebrate Adelaide’s engagement with Indonesia and are a potent reminder of the persistent effects of the past on contemporary Indonesian society.

Eko’s presence at the festival is part of its focus this year on the emerging practices of Indonesia.

Back in the 1960s, the Magic Center made its reputation as an Indonesian publishing house that was actively involved in the country’s politics.

Fast forward to today, and Portikus, a contemporary arts hall in Germany, is hosting an exhibit by artist Ade Darmawan on on this historical publishing house, set to run until Nov. 15.

The artist intertwines the publishing house’s history with an exploration of the intense socio-political changes in Indonesia during Magic Center’s active years.

For his exhibition at Portikus, Ade worked with the contents of the 30-plus books published by Magic Center he has collected over the years, arranging them with other found objects.

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P rofi l e

outside the box

art can't only live in museums, says this mexican-french visual artist

Words Sebastian Partogi images courtesy miguel chevalier

M

iguel Chevalier wants to challenge the idea that visual art can only take the form of static and non-interactive pieces that are confined to closed rooms.

Chevalier, who was born in Mexico and resides in France, has been developing what he calls self-generative, interactive and immersive artworks using software since he emerged on the contemporary art scene in 1978.

At that time, just before the dawn of the personal computer era, Chevalier’s dynamic and moving works defied easy classification amid a host of more conventional, i.e., static, pieces.

“I was inspired by the rapid developments of computers and video games in the late 1970s and early 1980s,” Chevalier said. “Both of these trends have informed the evolution of my techniques.”

Chevalier was in town last month for Bazaar Art Jakarta, which recently observed its seventh exhibition at the Pacific Place shopping center, Central Jakarta.

While Chevalier, who was born in Mexico in 1959, was studying fine art and archaeology at the Sorbonne; he engaged with the thoughts of many prominent intellectuals and artists, such as the Mexican social-realist muralist David Alfaro Siquerios, the Spanish surrealist filmmaker Luis Buñuel and the Mexican architect Luis Barragán.

Discussions and engagements with these luminaries were a critical point in his intellectual and creative awakening, he said.

Despite a technical aspect to his art, Chevalier also incorporates natural flourishes, such as flowers, as in his “Virtual Garden”.

The interactive video installation shows the development of a garden, from the germination of seeds to the blooming of plants.

The installation is projected on a wall.

The video of the plants shown moves along with the motions of its viewers.

“The artwork was developed through an algorithm, which means lots of its components are self-generative,” he said.

On whether the self-generative nature of the work betrays the notion that artists needed to maintain complete control of their works, Chevalier was phlegmatic.

“I have to admit that some elements in the artwork are accidental by nature.

I can’t control certain parts of it, because I just can’t access them through the software that I’m using,” he says.

“However, the accidents are part of the process. I usually learn from the accidents and correct them in my next installations.”

Chevalier said he wants to challenge the notion that the visual arts needed to be stored and enjoyed within the confines of isolated, permanent galleries or created only through projection mapping techniques.

Projection mapping uses specialized

software and technology to warp and blend an image so it fits perfectly when projected on irregularly-shaped objects, such as buildings, interior spaces and natural landscapes.

“The projection mapping technique allows art lovers to totally immerse themselves in a multi-sensory presentation involving visuals, odors, music and tactile sensations. This way, you can literally walk into a painting,” he said.

WITHOUT WALLS Here are some museums with digital collections that you can access anytime, anywhere with your digital gadgets:

MUSEUM OF MODERN ART (MoMA)

New York’s iconic Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) contains almost 200,000 works (and counting) of modern and contemporary art by over 10,000 artists. Out of that number, 61,000 are available online. moma.org/collection

TATE

The United Kingdom’s plush storehouse of British art, located in London, stores an ever expanding

catalogue of over 70,000 artworks by over 3,000 artists dating from the 16th century to the present day. tate.org.uk/art/

GOOGLE CULTURAL INSTITUTE

The Google Cultural Institute houses high-resolution, 3D scans from the collections of hundreds of museums throughout the globe, including 101 pieces from the National Museum of Indonesia. google.com/culturalinstitute/ collection/museum-nasional-indonesia ArtPLUS is published on the fourth Sunday of every month.

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at your Leisure

‘Colla-Bro-Asian’ NOMZ’S RECENT SERIES OF FULLY BOOKED POP-UP DINNERS FEATURED A QUARTET OF YOUNG CULINARY TALENTS. WORDS Kevindra Soemantri photos courtesy NOMZ

L

ast Wednesday evening, at NOMZ Kitchen & Pastry at the Grand Indonesia shopping center in Jakarta, a packed house of about 50 diners sat in anticipation for the start of “Colla-Bro-Asian”.

The dinner was the idea of the two young and talented chefs behind NOMZ: Arnold Poernomo of Masterchef Indonesia and dessert prodigy Kim Pangestu.

The pair opened NOMZ to recreate the dining experience of upmarket Australian cafes, creating a comfortable ambience with the best of fresh-made foods and the finest quality desserts reflected in an international palate of comfort foods.

For “Colla-Bro-Asian”, the dynamic duo were joined by guests flown into Jakarta for the event: Masterchef Australia veterans Kha Nguyen and the sensational Reynold Poernomo, the so-called “King of Desserts”.

NOMZ presented “Colla-bro-asian” as a pop-up dinner, to be held only for three nights, to showcase these international talents to an increasingly sophisticated audience of diners in Indonesia.

As I entered the restaurant, I was amazed by the enthusiasm of the guests in the fully-booked room. It was sentiment shared by NOMZ’s manager, who said that the wait list was full of the gastronomically curious eager to taste the creations of the young chefs.

As I perused the menu, I was surprised by the selections offered.

There were eight courses, beginning with two small and two main courses from chefs Arnold and Kha. I loved the idea behind the first course Arnold presented: “Ada Udang Dibalik Batu.”

The classic Indonesian proverb (which means “there’s shrimp behind the rock”) was brought to life in form of food.

Arnold worked with the spiciness of sambal roa of Manado and played with fresh kalamansi sorbet, Hamachi carpaccio and fire prawn. Leek ash and salmon roe were nice touches for the overall dish, giving the subtle smell of the ocean.

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The second course was a seared scallop with cauliflower puree – a classic French combination made perfect.

The scallop was silky and melted in your mouth. It was like eating a pillow that instantly disappeared as you ate it.

So tasty yet so delicate.

The first main course was a chicken roulade and foie gras from Arnold that was beautifully plated.

As the waiter poured the dashi broth onto the plate, an intense umami flavor gave our whole table a fragrant air. I was reminded of a peaceful Zen garden.

The overall dish was light and clean. Although there was foie gras inside the roulade, I could barely taste it. But this can be forgiven. The barley risotto was wonderfully cooked, as was the roulade.

While I expected the fourth course to be pleasant for the palette, what Kha gave me was beyond my expectations.

The course was simply phenomenal. Classic roasted bone marrow, silky and so rich in texture, topped with a decent salty crust complimented by the perfect medium beef, courtesy Gouldburn Valley Beef, dressed in an intensified pho sauce. It was served with a fresh pho salad that offered a refreshing taste after the rich bone marrow.

After four amazing savory courses, it was time for our taste buds to enter the playful world of desserts created by Kim and Reynold.

The first dessert was an excellent combination of Ginchu mango, hazelnut sponge, sphere mango pannacotta, black sesame ice cream, a take on mango skin and a touch of basil gel.

The second dessert by Kim was the bomb, combining on one plate several classic ingredients: Raspberries, white chocolate, dark chocolate and citrus (here she used kalamansi).

What impressed most were the combination of texture

and senses that Kim had in play here, ranging from tangy to sweetness, richness to freshness and from the creamy dense texture of the chocolate to the crispiness of the nougatine.

These were all NOMZ Kitchen & Pastry wonderfully made.

The chocolate rock Grand Indonesia East Mall itself will lead you Ground Floor 06-07 to surprise. The Weekdays 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. kalamansi liquid inside Weekends 10 a.m. to 12 a.m. created a fragrant Telp. 02123581211 citrus explosion, oozing nomzjakarta.com with a seducing aroma.

This experience of eating dessert from Kim was a never ending dance, sensual yet sensational.

All good things, however, must come to an end. We readied ourselves for the dishes from the star of the evening, Reynold.

Familiar with his desserts from Masterchef Australia, I fretted if the reality of eating one could match up with my high expectations.

I was given his “Moss” – an unappealing name that led to unpleasant expectations.

I could not have been more wrong. Reynold, as with any great artist, possesses a real vision that was realized on awesomeness this night.

As I tasted my first bite - a spoonful of sour green apple sorbet, a dust of matcha soil, teardrop of dulce de leche, a touch of fresh yogurt – I was rocked to my core.

The last time I felt such a strong spiritual emotion at the dining table was when I tasted chef Ellke’s phenomenal tomato consommé at Locavore, his celebrated restaurant in Ubud.

As my thoughts returned to the dishes before me at NOMZ, including Reynold’s chocolate cremeux and passion fruit sorbet, I realized that “Moss” was one of the most wonderful desserts that I’ve ever tasted, touching me to the root of my appetite.

Thanks must go to all of the event’s other sponsors: the Victoria Government in Indonesia, Garuda Indonesia, Yering Station, Tourism Australia and Schott Zweisel.

NOMZ continues to present innovative events for diners in Jakarta. I hope these “fantastic four” will reunite at NOMZ again sometime soon.

I will be there, with my stomach and appetite, ready for more.

tasteBUD taste BUD

It started with

a quiche

A RECIPE FOR RED ONION AND TURKEY-HAM QUICHE

WORDS & PHOTOS Theodora Hurustiati

S

erving up breakfast, lunch, dinner or a teatime snack? Need something for your picnic or party nibble?

Look no further!

Quiche, a fancy French name for a savory tart, is so versatile that it can fit on your meal agenda at any time.

Using a store-bought pastry crust is okay for this recipe, although making your own from scratch is not as difficult as it may seem.

The grand dame of all quiches is definitely quiche Lorraine - named after the French region it’s originally from. It’s typically filled with crème fraîche (a slightly acidic thick cream), eggs and lardons. The version I made is inspired by one from the Alsace, a neighboring region, which has the addition of onions in the filling. I’d rather not accentuate my belly lard, so opted for lean turkey ham and ricotta cheese instead. Skip the onions if you’re thinking of eating the quiche before a business meeting or a date!

For a 28-cm quiche (serves 8) Pastry crust 200 g all-purpose flour 25 g Parmesan cheese, grated 100 g cold butter 1 (50 g) egg Filling 100 g red onion 75 g turkey ham 250 g ricotta 250 ml fresh cream 50 g Parmesan cheese, grated 2 eggs Nutmeg, to taste A knob of butter Salt

• Place flour, Parmesan and cubed cold butter in a bowl. Rub butter into the flour using your fingers tips until the mixture resembles bread crumbs. Incorporate the egg to combine the dough.

• Cover pastry with cling film and rest in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.

• Once pastry is rested, dust the kitchen counter with flour and roll the pastry into a 3-5 mm thin disc, large enough to cover a 28-cm pie tin.

• Line the tin with the rolled pastry. Press delicately to follow its shape. Trim the excess dough from the edges using a pairing knife.

• Prick the bottom with a fork. Cover the surface with parchment paper and weigh it down with baking beads or dried beans to prevent the pastry from swelling up during cooking.

• Pre-bake piecrust at 160°C for 15 minutes. Don’t skip this step, otherwise the base will absorb the humidity from the filling and becomes soggy.

• Meanwhile, prepare the filling. Peel and slice onion into thin strips. Sweat over a low heat with a knob of butter and a pinch of salt.

• Place ricotta, cream, Parmesan, eggs, a pinch of grated nutmeg and salt in a bowl. Whisk to a creamy consistency.

• Add in the turkey ham, previously cut into 0.5-cm cubes, and the red onion. Save a small amount to scatter on the surface to make the quiche a little prettier.

• Pour in the filling into the half-cooked pastry. Bake again, in the lower rack of the oven, for about 45 minutes until the filling is firm and the crust is golden.

• Serve warm or at room temperature.

Jakarta-born chef Theodora Hurustiati, a 12-year resident of Udine, Italy, was the runner-up in the TV cooking program La Scuola – Cucina di Classe (The School: Classy Cooking) in 2011.

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trendDIAL Classic Fantastic

Comic Chic

After a successful debut collaboration with Coach in October, Snoopy and Woodstock and the Peanuts gang are back in fashion this summer. The silhouettes of these characters have been embossed and printed on Coach’s Retro Glove Tan cowhide in white, black, heritage Saddle, “Woodstock yellow” and a new playful blue. Credit for the fresh take on Coach’s renowned satchels, totes, duffels and backpacks goes to newly minted creative director Stuart Vevers. Our favorite?

Good grief! How to choose?

We’ll go with the Snoopy Campus Backpack in black leather.

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s love of pearls is the inspiration for the fashion house’s latest optical and sunglasses collection, appropriately named Chanel 2015 Pearl Eyewear. The pearls come in every shape and arrangement – full, round and whole, elongated in mother-of-pearl panels or microscopic and multiplied.

Accentuating the modern notions of femininity, the frames come in butterfly, cat eye, circular or square shapes. Meanwhile lenses are in a palette that’s tender and muted: Green, blue, aubergine, tortoiseshell or black. Capturing the essence of this eyewear is Lily-Rose Depp, the 16-year-old daughter of Johnny Depp and Vanessa Paradis, a former Chanel ambassador.

how to choose? style with a hint of swag(ger)

The Smell of Money

Children's Essentials

We all know it isn’t easy to find cold-weather clothes for children in Indonesia. But planning a winter trip just got easier thanks to UNIQLO, whose latest collaboration with sought-after Japanese designer Jun Takahashi from UNDERCOVER is a collection of wellmade, durable and affordable winter clothes for your little ones. There are 14 looks for boys and girls dominated by fleece, which is light, comfortable, warm and easily dried – perfect material for active kids. Priced starting at Rp. 149,000, this collection is only available at UNIQLO’s Gandaria City boutique.

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Too Cool for Skull

It isn’t easy to be a cutting-edge brand in the conservative world of luxury watches, but HYT manages to secure a slice of the market pie thanks to some exciting design innovations. HYT made its name with its H1 and H1 watches, known for using fluid to indicate the hours. The latest incarnation of the series comes in the shape of a skull in two versions: black DLC titanium with green liquid, and rose gold with red liquid, aptly named Green Eye and Red eye, respectively.

The gradual change of color on the left eye denotes the running seconds, while the right eye shows the remaining power.

The unveiling of The Royale Dream perfume at Singapore’s Amber Lounge stole the spotlight from the intense Singapore Grand Prix last week. What makes this scent special? The US$140,000 price tag. The perfume comprises of three scents, but all anyone could talk about was the diamond-encrusted case.

A collaboration between Cuarzo The Circle, a Spanish company focusing on custom-made, luxury perfumes, and World of Diamonds Group, the world’s largest private diamond corporation; the perfume is encapsulated within a Fabergé egg with a lambskin pillow, escorted by a stunning 0.85 carat blue diamond. The ultraglamorous Royalé Dream perfume will be available to few bidders through a silent auction which will be held at Boudoir Noire, at Singapore’s iconic Capitol Theatre at the end of September. + Willy Wilson