Jplus 2015 10 25 lores

Vol. 2 No. 49 I OCtober 25 - 31, 2015

Trough the Looking Glass Virtual Reality Apps

Touch of Color Nail Polish Primer

Saleh takes Singapore

Artist makes his bow

FIXATED ON FLORES

ENCOUNTERS IN THE EAST

Editor's note

Check List

Fugitive from the aisle seat Working on this month’s travel issue, I started daydreaming about my next (work-related) trip.

As I pondered flying economy class to the middle of the Indian Ocean, I remembered looking at the Baubax on Kickstarter.

Billed as the world’s best travel jacket, it’s slated to come with a built-in neck pillow, eye mask, gloves, earphone holders, a drink pocket and several tech pockets.

It’s the 6th most popular project ever on the crowd-funding website, which speaks to a frustration with how unpleasant flying in the cheap seats.

For some, getting to the destination on a budget is more important than the journey.

I guess the jacket makes sense for a discount traveler, but I don’t like wearing space suits. It’s like Thoreau said: “Beware of all enterprises that require new clothes.”

My trip was cancelled, and so I can go back to daydreaming about business class travel.

Of course, there is a time and a place to pack fast and move light – as is evinced by the two writers behind our series of stories about the island of Flores.

In the first article, Cory Rodgers, an erstwhile member of the newsroom staff of The Jakarta Post, takes us off the beaten track though the lovely island.

Meanwhile, the travel writer Swastika Nohara has penned articles for us on Lake

Kelimutu, arguably the most popular destination in Flores, as well as on the island’s traditional ikat woven textiles.

Tika – who also written the screenplay for the upcoming sports film 3 Sri Kandi – also helped us put together our Flores: Confidential page.

I think you’ll enjoy their takes on the island and their alternate takes on Flores –there’s barely a mention of any komodo dragons, so you’re sure to find something new.

Enjoy the weekend!

Counterfeit Counterculture THE PROBLEM WITH HIPSTERS Words Willy WILSON

Have you ever wondered why retailers sell torn, worn-out daisy dukes for a half million Rupiah?

Well that’s because the biggest trend at the moment is to make the old look new again - so much so that sporting a weather-beaten “vintage” leather satchel on Facebook can earn you more likes than a brand new Prada tote. For that, you can thank the hipsters.

Largely considered the counterculture movement of the new millennium, hipsters embrace the messy on purpose, a fauxhemian mishmash of skinny jeans, flannel shirts, record players and SLR cameras.

They avoid chain coffee shops and frequent vintage stores. One might argue that their anti-brand stand emerged as a reaction to an increasingly brandconscious society, making them our era’s most visible nonconformist subculture.

What’s interesting - and ironic - is that the hipsters voice their nonconformist attitudes chiefly through technology, a leading force in mainstream culture.

Like the rest of us mere mortals in contemporary society, hipsters can’t easily escape the paradox of social media: being the most connected to each other and yet the most detached.

Using social media to champion countercultural messages, however, strips the movement of its subversion and originality.

On a platform where identity is built

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COVER STORY

Far from the maddening crowd

Chris Razukas jplus@thejakartapost.com

mark my words

upon “likes” and followers, authentic quickly turns inauthentic.

Is it any wonder that unlike the counterculture movements past eras, hipsters are often recognized not for their activism, but for the clothes they wear?

Of course, counterculture has always had a big influence of fashion.

Vivienne Westwood built an entire career channeling the punk ethos, which was fueled by the massive unemployment and depression in the 1970s.

Yohji Yamamoto’s debut Paris show in 1981 was a striking countercultural display of black, deconstructed and asymmetrical clothing influenced by the worker uniforms worn in his native Japan.

Dressing down was the key fashion trend of the 1990s, as a reaction to the cluttered, over-the-top glamour of the 1980s. Each decade has had its own generational muse: The Sex Pistols, Madonna, Kate Moss - the list goes on.

Each individual has had a cultural impact that transcends beyond fashion, as they represented ideas that were both politically and socially synchronized at the time.

But who are the counterculture icons of today? If your definition of a hipster is someone who appreciates skateboard culture, digs Bob Marley, is down with a crumpled Oxford button-down and has a penchant for uglified high fashion items, then Pharrell Williams fits the bill.

But perhaps the most fitting hipster icons are the fashion bloggers. You know - the Internet- savvy youths who curate mash-ups of subcultures and manage to look half-decent in the odd combinations.

Whether we like it or not, we have

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aRTpLUS

Next stop: Wonderland

JPlus Team

arrived at a new era in fashion where the fashion-conscious can sit front row at their favorite designer’s fashion show from the comfort of their own bed.

In many cases, these fashion bloggers have more impact on the public than traditional fashion media. Smart designers are embracing this, lending their latest collections to the bloggers to collect Instagram “likes”.

Despite the questionable integrity of their movement, hipsters have a strong economic impact, as retail heavyweights such as Topshop and H&M have benefited greatly from the trendiness of their fashion - thus the overpriced cutoff denim shorts I was talking about earlier.

But the adoption of hipster trends in mainstream fashion, just like the heavy use of social media, seems to have consumed most of the political motivations of the movement.

Let’s be frank: many high street retailers brand themselves as independent when they are actually the complete opposite.

Yet, to dismiss the hipsters as an apolitical unidirectional group with no real effects to the society is not entirely true.

I personally know some hipsters who are as conscious about the working conditions of the clothing manufacturers that produce their torn jeans as their cold-pressed green juice.

We can celebrate, glorify or denounce the hipsters. But history dictates that like other countercultures, hipsters are an extension of rebellious, idealistic youth that will eventually succumb to conformity.

Editor Christian Razukas

Mark My Words shifts focus between fashion, food, parenting and travel each

Sunset in a Small Town in Flores Photographer Swastika Nohara

Art Director Budhi Hartono Graphic Designer Hengky Wijaya Marketing & Advertising Sales & Marketing Director Ady P. Pamungkas

ady.pamungkas@thejakartapost.com

Marketing Executive Deasy Rasjid

deasy@thejakartapost.com

@JPlusSunday JPlusSunday

SundayJplus jakplus.com

ON THE COVER

talk of the town HARPIST MESTY ARIOTEDJO MAKES GIK BOW Grand Indonesia shopping center, SCBD

Harpist Mesty Ariotedjo dazzled the crowd at Gallery Indonesia Kaya on Oct. 18 with an instrumental performance describing the life journey of a woman from childhood to adult life.

“I encourage young Indonesian women to dream big and to dedicate their lives to other people,” Mesty, who is also a physician, said to the audience after the performance.

While completing her residency in pediatric medicine, Mesty has been active in children’s development, joining activities such “Children in Harmony”, which is a free music school for disadvantaged children, and supporting children’s healthcare through WeCare.id, which she co-founded.

Mesty also recently released her new single titled “Tentang Perempuan” (On Women).

OMEGA’s JAMES BOND GATHERING Plaza Senayan Arcadia, South Jakarta

Aficionados, spies and would-be private eyes assembled at Prohibition in Plaza Senayan Arcadia on Oct. 21 for OMEGA’s secret party to mark the impending release of Spectre, the 24th film in the beloved James Bond franchise.

The venerable luxury watch brand, associated with 007 since the film Goldeneye in 1995, had two of its creations on display.

The first was a Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M model, inspired by the Bond family coat of arms and produced in a limited edition of 15,007 pieces.

Also on show was the Seamaster 300 Spectre, produced in limited edition of 7,007 to mark the secret agent’s most return to the screen.

HENNESSY ARTISTRY RETURNS TO ROCK JAKARTA

Empirica, SCBD Cognac and music enthusiasts had a sensory-load experience as the Hennessy Artistry concert returned to Jakarta for a fourth year.

Andien, Mario Ginanjar, Teza Sumendra, Giselle, Radhini, and Jevin Julian took the stage at Empirica on Oct. 16, courtesy of the world-famous cognac.

Meanwhile, a mashup of dance music subgenres was presented by celebrity DJs Tiara Eve and Dipha Barus.

“Artistry is another of Hennessy’s successful global campaigns which specifically pays tribute to music,”Kevin Tong, Chief Representative of Möet-Hennessy Asia Pacific, said in a statement. “Through Artistry, our 250-year-old cognac brand has been recognized as one of the true champions of the music community around the world.”

ARTOTEL THAMRIN MARKS SECOND BIRTHDAY Senayan Central Business District The ARTotel Thamrin marked its second anniversary on Oct. 17 by launching its new brunch menu at ROCA, the hotel’s signature restaurant.

According to the hotel’s corporate marcom manager Yulia Maria, the hotel used the anniversary party, which had a look-sharp-in-white dress code, to begin

the brunch service, which will be offered on Saturdays and Sundays from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Hipsters and all those searching for the perfect cup of java should stop in ROCA, which is also now offering fresh-brewed coffee from roast masters at Jakarta’s Common Grounds Coffee Roasters.

Ippudo revamping menu with 20 new items

Pacific Place, SCBD The local outpost of Japan’s acclaimed ramen chain launched its new Menu for a select audience of media and bloggers at IPPUDO Pacific Place on Oct. 21 Among the 20 creations slated for a public bow on Nov. 2, five delectables were on offer at the sneak preview: a teriyaki chicken salad, a rainbow ebi tempura roll topped with roe, teba gyoza, tsukune balls and sake mentai rice.

“OPPUDO Indonesia refreshes its menu on an annual basis in line with founder Shigemi Kawahara’s philosophy to continuously innovate to remain true, according to the restaurant’s Takashi Mikam.

“Ikawahara is well known for reinventing ramen, and redefining recipes for a dish that emerged over 300 years ago,”

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good living

LONG LASTING KISSES

WITH YSL luscious liquid lips

WORDS Fedina S. Sundaryani

W

earing a lipstick or a lipgloss is all that you need to make your day.

However, making sure that the product doesn’t slip off or smudge all over your chin can be the bane of your existence.

To counteract this, most beauty mavens opt for a lip stain, which is a liquid product that stains your lips and lasts through eating, drinking - and, of course, kissing.

However, the downside with most lip products is that unless you’ve been drinking jugs of water and you’ve been taking care of your lips — admit it, you probably haven’t done either — you can end up with chapped, uneven lips by the end of the day.

Thankfully, Yves St Laurent (YSL) has come up with the perfect product to make sure your lip color stays on all day and your lips stay kissable with its new Pop Water

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collection of the iconic Vernis à Lèvres Glossy Stains line.

YSL recommends the product for those who seek “sheer color and intense hydration” as they are “formulated with water brilliance to provide 10 hours of hydration and a translucent pop of color”.

Hendra Gunawan Ginting, YSL Indonesia’s senior makeup expert, agrees, saying that unlike its predecessor, Pop Water Glossy Stains will show the full potential of your lips.

“In comparison to the previous series, the Pop Water collection is more intense and glossier and it lasts much longer,” he said at a recent event held by Galeries Lafayette as part of its Beauty Fair.

“It’s just more intense and has a minty scent to it, which is refreshing. It also has a higher water content, so that your lips don’t feel ehydrated,” he said, adding that the lip stains can be layered for a more vibrant shot of color or as just one layer for lightly colored lips.

The Pop Water collection offers 12 shades that range for all tastes, from “208 Wet Nude”, described

by YSL as a “sultry beige”, to “207 Juicy Peach”, a succulent shot of pink, and even “201” Dewy Red”, a fresh burst of red.

However, Hendra said that it was the bold colors that were the real winners in the collection.

“Nowadays, YSL is known for its brazen colors, colors that are sometimes deemed as controversial.

Our customer favorites really are the bright colors even though there are a few who love nude ones too,” he said.

Hendra recommended to look at your skin tone in choosing what kind of colors would suit you.

Determine first whether you have cool undertones or skin that looks slightly pink with warm undertones.

If so, look to blue-based reds or plum lip colors.

If you have skin that looks slightly yellow, go for bright pinks, dark berries or even orange.

However, he said that lip product lovers shouldn’t take the undertone suitability too seriously. “Nowadays people are no longer looking at their skin tones and just buying what they love.”

Hendra said that the Pop Water collection also has a “unique” new product called the “200 Plump Up”, which can be layered under the lip stain for

visibly fuller lips.

Although it comes out as a very pale soft pink shimmer when swatched, it comes out practically clear and has a long-lasting shine that also lets a woman use it alone for fresherlooking lips.

Hendra also recommends pairing lip stains with a swipe of YSL’s Pop Water Full Metal Shadows on the eyelids.

The Full Metal Shadows are metallic liquid shadows which dry to a powder finish and it comes with a beveled sponge-tip applicator.

“The advantage of the Full Metal Shadows is that they have a great shade range, light texture and a unique casing. The texture is very light and so that it is easy to blend, even for beginners,” he said, adding that they are as long-lasting as its lipstick brethren.

The Full Metal Shadows has 10 colors in the series and though many veer towards the neutral, bronzey shades, there are some fun shades such as “Misty Green”, a metallic green with gold shimmer, and “Pink Cascade”, a coral pink with pink.

tech toys

through the looking glass Virtual reality on the cheap, courtesy of Google Cardboard WORDS Andry Herman Togarma

W

hile virtual reality (VR) - or the concept, at least - has been around for decades, a trip through the looking glass is about to go even more mainstream, thanks to The New York Times.

The newspaper is planning give subscribers more than one million Google Cardboard VR goggles on Nov. 8.

For those not in the know, Cardboard are extremely inexpensive VR goggles devised by Google and made out of - you guessed it - cardboard. Prices start at about US$15 and Cardboard is easily found, even in Indonesia.

The Times is launching a new app, NYT VR, on Nov. 5, that will feature video stories filmed with special cameras that will let users experience reportage in an immersive – and unprecedented – way.

There’s also a way for users in Indonesia to experience VR. Inspired by the low price of Google Cardboard, many companies have created their own knockoffs that are 100 percent compatible with Cardboard applications.

Just search for the phrase “get Google Cardboard” to see a list of vendors selling the headsets for prices as low as US$15.

All of these products are officially licensed. You will only need to scan

the QR code on the box the goggles come in to adjust the settings on the Google Cardboard app (Android and iOS) for your phone.

If you’d like to build your own, Google has some online instructions, including tips on how to accommodate larger phone and where to find all the needed materials.

Cardboard Apps

Got your Cardboard ready? Then head on to your phone’s App Store and download the Cardboard app (Android) or Google Cardboard (iOS). Put your phone inside the cardboard and try out some of the menu available.

If you already feel satisfied, it’s time to download other cardboard supported apps.

But if not, you’ll need to adjust the lens or the phone position to have better experience.

Our picks

Though the number of Cardboardsupported apps can be counted in the dozens, it is not an easy task to find the best app. No need to worry – our staff nerds have sorted through the downloads for you. Here are our picks.

For kids

Kaiju Fury: Sundance Selection

This app puts you in the middle of a fight between two kaiju (Japanese for monster).

That’s how you might explain Kaiju Fury to your children before showing them this video. The graphics, sound and rendering of the kaiju and the battered cityscape in which they rumble is so good that it was entered into the Sundance Film Festival’s New Frontier category. Afterwards, you might want to check it out yourself.

Notable apps:

- VR-JurassicLand, Sea World VR, Rollercoaster, Titans of Space, Crazy Pig VR Free

On the runway

Also try: Drew Barrymore & InSTyle, ELLE: Jacquie Lee Photo Shoot, CherryBlossom VR

On the track

Mercedes VR for Cardboard Ever feel like taking a ride in the passenger seat of the brand new Mercedes as it roars down the race track? With this app, you can experience the classic Sauber C9 or Mercedes AMG GT. Remember to look behind you!

Also try: Volkswagen VR, Hyundai VR+, InMind

Youtube 360 Other usage of the cardboard besides the immersive feels with apps or games is viewing Youtube content. Not just ordinary Youtube content, but the one created with 360 cameras. One notable video is by Aviici. For other 360 video, check out www.youtube.com/360.

Rebecca Minkoff Fall 2015 Ever wanted to experience New York Fashion Week? Now you can, at least from the runway of Rebecca Minkoff, which is the first fashion brand offer a 360-degree virtual reality look at their show.

Windows Phone users?

Though seems left out, Windows Phone users can now experience 360 and VR like with the arrival of “InMind VR” app on the Windows Store. More apps using 360 and VR is expected to come in near future.

ExxonMobil is proud to be one of the government’s trusted partners in developing Indonesia’s oil and gas resources and contributing to the country’s economic prosperity for decades.

The story continues at exxonmobil.co.id Follow us at @exxonmobil_id

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Cover Story

Over land in Flores IN BETWEEN KOMODO AND KELIMUTU, AN ADVENTURE AWAITS THE TRAVELER WILLING TO TAKE IT SLOW Words Cory Rodgers Photos sam lawrence

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Cover Story

T

he words, “Firstborn son, Gus”, are scrawled across a picture of Jesus on the way to where the Komodo dragons live. It hangs in a home on the Trans-Flores Highway— one of thousands you are likely to overlook while admiring the road’s resplendent, highlight-reel views.

And yet, here we are inside, three Americans, waiting eagerly for lunch.

“Do you eat horse meat? Gus asks, as a bowl of brown-gray something drops to the table.

My friends and I— on the final leg of an 11 day journey through the towns of central Flores — exchange nervous looks.

“Of course we do,” I offer, praying Gus buys the lie.

For the overland traveler, these moments adding a human touch to Flores’ natural splendor.

The road from Maumere —Flores’ most populous city— to Kelimutu, its most visited site, is fearsomely serpentine and surprisingly undeveloped.

Within minutes we are surrounded by steep groves of palm and banana, watching ribbons of ocean blink through breaks in the trees.

Crammed with six others inside a sevenseat Avanza, we are on the way to Moni, in the peak of the tourist season.

In the back seat, an elderly woman smacks on betel nut and chides our driver for his taste in soda. She breaks her banter only to heave as our van lurches, bend to bend, at a leisurely 40 kilometers an hour.

Plastic bags of vomit are hurled into the wind, and she’s laughing all the way.

I wonder aloud about the red beans drying on tarps along the road.

“That’s’ cocoa,” our driver says. “This is where Flores grows its chocolate”.

I asked if we could stop to buy some,

to which he replied we’d have to go back Maumere, where the beans are processed into sweets. I decline. Progress on bringing some of that manufacturing capacity to the area, he adds, has been slow.

A straight section appears, and the driver seizes the moment to light a cigarette he’s been holding for the last half hour. At that moment, the sun is setting, the old woman is asleep, and we have reached Moni.

The next morning we rise before dawn to go walking. Walking is, after all, the best way to see a place.

We set off down a footpath we hope will lead to a village. Before long the forest thins, and we find ourselves among farms stretching for miles to a soaring horizon equal parts sky and ocean.

Two young lads emerge from a bend and we stop to pet their carrot-nibbling mule and debate the genius of Lionel Messi.

They assure us we’ve chosen a good path.

“Keep going”, they say. “That’s the way to Pemo.”

Before long the forest thins, and we find ourselves among farms stretching for miles to a soaring horizon equal parts sky and ocean.

My friend is the first to notice singing coming from down the road.

We’d forgotten it was Sunday. “Is someone playing a record? he asks, puzzled. The pitch-perfect polyphony, the spot-on release of tension — it was all too well-executed to be real — except that it was.

As we approached the village, the church music suddenly stops. The congregants spilled out, each draped in a genderspecific kain (textile) with a motif unique to their village.

“Where are you from?” an older man queries, eager to practice his English, as hundreds more — seemingly the whole village — quicken their pace to shake our hands. “America,” I answer, “I mean, the United States of America.”

He recalls meeting an American who came to Pemo 17 years ago to rebuild the village after a devastating earthquake left it in ruins.

Near Maumere, closer to the quake’s center, 2,500 persons died when a tsunami charged ashore. In addition to the human toll, the wave destroyed large swathes of world-class coral, which, in combination with the effects of widespread dynamite fishing, have yet to regenerate.

The trip from Moni to Ende is notable lightning-quick shifts in landscape: Plush valleys of terraced paddy quickly transform into snug mountain hollers; then you are hugging precipitous ravines perched over galloping rivers.It’s a two-hour blur you wish you could pause and rewind.

Our first mission was to climb the misleadingly modest, 627-meter Mt. Iya. We’d heard one too many stories of hikers losing their way on the volcano’s maze of gullies, so we decided to hire two guides, Nando and Gashim, to bring us to the top.

According to Nando, Iya is as sacred to the Lionese people as Kelimutu, its moreheralded cousin to the east.

“When someone dies, the Lio say ‘mutu gu, ia pai, kolo du mutu, ai seda ia’, which means ‘the journey starts from the ‘foot’, in Iya, and ends at the ‘head’ in Kelimutu.”

In other words, Iya is where the soul begins its journey to the spirit world of the ancestors.

I enjoy his words, but pray we are not about to embark on such a trip.

The ascent starts where the city dump ends. Stepping past the last pile of trash, the trail shoots upward at a dizzying 14 percent grade, making for a gritty, twohour zig-zag through stands of cemara, pinus and grasses.

Reaching the crater rim, we find the monitoring station flattened by a recent windstorm. Looking down from the top, we notice the glint of mosques.

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Cover Story Ende is a Muslim-majority city in overwhelmingly Catholic Flores. Seafaring Muslims from far-off islands settled here centuries ago, before the Portuguese arrived.

According to Gashim, this religious pluralism is not so much a source of tension as it is a point of pride.

“All religions here are one,” he said, as we drank deeply from bottles of water. “Anyone who says otherwise is just a provocateur.”

The observation brought to mind the Indonesian motto, Bhinneka Tunggal Ika (Unity in Diversity). In Ende that concept seems more than platitude.

Here it feels authentic — rooted in faith in national ideals. Indeed, though in some respects a far-flung outpost, it was here that the Indonesian dream found its mantra.

Sukarno was exiled to Ende by the Dutch. It was during these years that he penned Pancasila, the national political ideology, as a rhetorical means of unifying the embryonic republic.

Some, like Nando, say the ideas he came up with (belief in God, justice, unity, democracy and social justice) were based on the five principles that animate the Lio way of life — communication with God, ancestors, humanity, environment and self.

Sukarno’s memory, preserved by museums and statues of him in pensive thought, still looms large.

Nando said the key to the harmony was the local culture. In Ende, traditional rituals — things like harvest ceremonies, the setting aside of dinner plates for ancestors —have been accommodated rather than cast aside.

“On Sundays, we might go to church,” Nando explained.

“But the rest of the week we set aside for our local culture.”

The next stop was Bajawa, a chilly mountain town four hours from coastal Ende.

It is the kind of place where grandmothers pour you homemade sopi daun (fermented palm fruit with leaves) to help you sleep — and where you may or may not be asked in to sample the horse du jour.

To our disappointment, local fare had thus far been hard

to locate in Flores. Ende had its tasty cassava-based ubi cincang, but in eastern Indonesia, home-cooking rarely makes it out of those confines.

We had better luck in Bajawa than we’d had all trip, however, thanks a man named Geli.

We met Geli, a farmer and part-time tour guide, at our hotel. He took us on a tour of some surrounding villages, where a great many still live in the traditional setting.

Geli showed is how separate clans live across from one another in a communal square, each home facing a single ceremony grounds where ancestral shrines delineate one clan from the other.

Each contains a wooden staff topped by a thatched umbrella. These are where semi-regular sacrifices of pigs and water buffalos are performed to keep the village safe and prosperous.

The wooden staffs, Geli explained, are replaced when only when have been whittled to twigs by time. At Bela village one had recently been replaced — Geli said for the first time in 600 years.

The next day, Geli led us up Mt. Inerie, Flores’ 2,227-meter tall volcanic pyramid, wearing, of all things, plastic cleats. I feel embarrassingly greenhorn as we toiled skyward, stumbling in boots as he bounded up with profound panache.

The views at the top were transcendent and giant - but the descent was the real treat, with a lengthy red bowl of scree freeing us to slide heels-first down a huge section

In Ende, traditional rituals — things like harvest ceremonies, the setting aside of dinner plates for ancestors —have been accommodated rather than cast aside.

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with abandon.

Soon we were off the mountain and luxuriating in a hot spring which doubled as a town bath. This was our version of paradise.

On the way back to town we stopped by the home of the recently departed Opa Inky, one in a line of Bajawa’a (another local traditional village) chiefs stretching back hundreds of years, and the grandfather of a close friend.

Inky is something of a local legend. His brother told us it was Inky who Sukarno trusted to bring the Ngada clans into the Indonesian fold.

Said to have slayed the last great water buffalo of Bajawa, we were taken in to see the mighty tusks, which hang proudly on a wall next to tennis rackets and a painting of the Virgin Mary.

Looked at one way, tourism in Flores is booming: Some 600,000 visitors will visit East Nusa Tenggara province this year — a tenth to Komodo National Park in Labuan Bajo — and many more thousands to the lakes of Kelimutu.

Most will see the two sights and leave, using the flights between them that started in 2014.

This change, Geli said, has slowed the stream of overlanders to a trickle, reducing the amount of foreigners he sees and leaving him waxing poetic about the 1990s, when backpackers came in droves.

If that is true it’s a shame, because its people like Gus, Nando, and Geli you meet — not the vistas or the dragons, or the drug of escape — that make a trip to Flores, or to any

at your Leisure

Flores Confidential Have questions about what lies over the horizon? we’ve got some answers, advice and expertise. Send your travel questions to us at jplus@thejakartapost.com or connect with us on Twitter (@JPlusSunday) or Facebook (sundayjplus). Tag your questions #takemeawayJPlus. Here’s our tips for the island of Flores.

SEE What’s a must-do in Flores?

Try the local “wine”, which is called sopi or moke – especially if you’re offered some in a traditional or ceremonial setting. If you don’t drink alcohol, it’s customary just to touch your bamboo glass to the lips.

What’s the most scenic hike?

Try Waerebo traditional village - the scenery at the top and the view along the way is splendid. It might be a challenge, though, if you’re not into outdoor stuff.

Here there be bats Batu Cermin Cave – the name means Mirror Rock is located in the hills of Labuan Bajo. When the sun strikes the inside walls of the cave between 9 a.m. and 10 a.m., the slick surfaces reflect the light spectacularly. The cave, home to a population of indifferent bats, is in beautiful environment, where long-tailed monkeys and wild boars live.

DO What’s Flores’ “signature” dish?

Look for two dishes made from local sticky corn: jagung titi, a crispy flat popcorn-like snack, and jagung bose, cooked with water and coconut milk into savory porridge-like dish.

How about a cup of coffee?

One not-to-be missed local version of “java” is a concoction of coffee and toasted ginger mixed together that’s known as kopi Ende, named after the town where it’s most popular. Local coffee – Bajawa is popular - is known for its chocolate, floral and woody notes.

What’s the best place to stay?

The best resorts and hotels can be found in Labuan Bajo, where the Luwansa Beach Resort is amazing, as is the Plataran

and the Jayakarta and Swissbelhotels. The Komodo Dive Resort offers dive trip packages for the underwater inclined.

SECRETS What is overrated in Flores?

Pink Beach in Komodo. It’s touristy, and you’ve got to come at a specific time of day (and day of the year) to see the sand and sky at their most pink. There are many, many beaches with good views in Flores – and many other great beaches for ae snorkeler.

What do you need to know about the local language?

While many local languages are spoken on the island, everyone

understands terima kasih (thank you) and permisi (excuse me), which should be used frequently and with a smile!

How did Flores get its name?

Historians say the name comes from the royal poinsettias that greeted the 16th century Portuguese as they came ashore.

Flores means flower in Portuguese, who have given the name to three other islands around the world.

BONUS

Exile

Ride

Rinca Island is another place to see Komodo Dragons that’s slightly easier to access than Komodo Island – and some dive operators might combine a visit with a chance to get in the water. Otherwise, there are several tour operators in Labuan Bajo who can get you there. Fees for admission start about Rp 275,000, transport is extra.

Make some time to see the house where Soekarno spent four years in exile under the Dutch. The founding president was said to be inspired to create Pancasila while in the town – and also founded a theatrical company and wrote numerous plays, including a Frankenstein adaptation titled Doctor Satan.

Adventure waits for those willing to brave winding roads, loud music and packed travel vans, called bemos in Flores. The minivans plough the Trans-Flores Highway running from west to east, or from Labuanbajo to Ruteng to Bajawa to Ende to Maumerea to Larantuka.

The cost is about Rp 50,000 and travel between proximate cities takes anywhere from four to six hours.

JPlus

October 25, 2015

9

Cover Story

at KELIMUTU Sunrise

VISITING THE LAKE OF DEPARTED SOULS WORDS AND PHOTOS Swastika Nohara

M

y first encounter with in local restaurants or food stalls.

Lake Kelimutu – or rather, In the early morning blackness, with the three lakes that wedrove for around 30 minutes to reach share that name - took Mount Kelimutu National Park, hiking place some time ago, when the site was another half hour to reach the mountain immortalized on the Rp. 5,000 bank note. top.

I wanted to visit Flores and the lakes Thankfully, it was an easy trek with a ever since. well-paved track that was steep only at a Such an opportunity recently came few points. The biggest challenge to do when I had the chance to visit the island the hike in darkness – make sure you bring along with a small group of fellow your own flashlight! travelers.

The climate was cool and breezy.

We took a (very) early flight from We were determined to embrace local Jakarta, leaving at 2:30 AM, with one stop ways as much as possible, so we warmed Kupang. ourselves up with traditional ikat sarong.

Sleeping, as usual, is the best way to It was still dark and windy when we spend your time on any flight departing at reached the peak. There are three lakes such an ungodly hours. at the site all sharing the name Kelimutu, A beautiful sunrise, however, welcomed which means boiling lake. me as I woke when the plan began its The lakes are located quite close to each descent to El Tari airport, where we other, separated by only a few minutes’ switched to a smaller aircraft for a flight walk. to Ende, the closest city by plane to While each lake has its own color and regions of Flores in a variety of colors, sizes andapattern.

Kelimutu. local name, all are believed to be the Whether or chemical dyes, either one can make a Sunrisesusing were natural on my mind.

The best resting place of departed souls. beautiful souvenir for ourthey loved ones. way to enjoy Kelimutu, say, is at The most visited lake, simply because it sunrise, since the lakes are often blanketed is located at the end of the trekking route, with fog during the day. is Tiwu Nuwa Muri Koo Fai, or the Lake To make it to Kelimutu, make sure you for the Souls of Young Men and Maidens. make the 60-kilometer trip from Ende to It was silver-white when I visited, but Moni, the small town closest to Kelimutu, the color keeps changing. A few steps the night before. away was Tiwu Ata Polo, or the Lake of A good night’s sleep is a must, as you Evil Spirits, which was deathly black. should be ready to leave your homestay at The third lake, Tiwu Ata Mbupu (or the 4:30 a.m. to catch the sunrise.

Lake of the Old People), was located at the A simple breakfast is advisable – a park’s westernmost corner. banana can be a great source of energy for The 15-minute walk was worth it to see the trek ahead and are also very easy to get its gleaming turquoise surface.

We had to choose to watch the sunrise from one of the lakes. We decided on the Lake of the Souls of Young Men and Maidens, as it sat in the valley facing the dawn.

A host of photographers were already there, lined up behind the safety fence and ready with camera and lenses Slowly the early morning sun appeared, going from golden to reddish-yellow. The landscape glowed magically. I could do nothing but stand in admiration.

As the minutes passed, I watched the color of the lake change from silvery white to greenish white.

It was unpredictable as to when the color of the lakes would change – or when it would happen. Sometimes the colors would suddenly go green, blue or black; other times, they turned white or red.

The ranger at Kelimutu National Park attributed the changing colors to chemical reactions from materials in the lake water that were triggered by volcanic activity.

Local residents, however, offer a more appealing explanation: The colors represent the deeds of people who live nearby, whether for good or evil.

Around two hours after sunrise, the clear skies turned to a fog that soon descended to the surface of the lake.

It was our sign to start our down.

The journey back was jovial.

The morning light made visible stunning scenery along the way, including the tiny monkeys rollicking past us amid the tree branches.

Nineteen endemic and endangered animals can be found inside the park, including the Floresian punai, Floresian eagle and Wallacea owl.

As we reached the parking area, simple food stalls were open, ready to serve cups of Flores-grown coffee or other hot drinks.

We spent half hour sitting and enjoying the morning calm before heading to Jopu, where an adventure with textiles awaited.

Cover Story

Weaving heritage IN FLORES, LOCAL WISDOM ON A PIECE OF CLOTH WORDS AND PHOTOS Swastika Nohara

T

he island of Flores in East Nusa Tenggara has more to offer than magnificent landscapes.

Locally made hand-woven textiles known as tenun ikat are one of the island’s treasures, crafted with heart and soul in a traditional way - and often with all natural ingredients.

Each region on the island, such as Lembata, Sikka, Maumere, Ende, Manggarai, Ngada and Lio, produces ikat with a distinctive pattern and color.

During a recent visit to the village of Jopu in Ende regency, I met with local residents whose families have been making ikat for generations.

Jopu, located in the west of Ende, is a town travelers typically encounter on the way to Mount Kelimutu.

In the village, there is one traditional house, the Sao Ata Mosa Lakitana, that stands tall as it is surrounded by more modern yet modest establishments.

The roof is so high that it can be seen from a surprising distance. It is a sacred place where traditional ceremonies are held in April and October.

A woman in her forties named welcomed us. People introduced her as Mama Maria. She told us an interesting story behind the ikat.

In the context of the textile, the people of Ende are closely related to those of Lio. Indeed, they’re often referred to as Ende-Lio, and two closely linked ethnic groups are well known as skillful makers of ikat.

The word ikat originates from a Javanese word that means to tie, or can be used as a noun that means thread or knot.

Ikat describes a technique used to create textile patterns that employs resist dyeing prior to dyeing and weaving the fabric. The resulting textiles are usually worn as sarong.

The Ende-Lio ikat sarongs typically have a maroon base, woven and sewn twice by separating the middle part and the leg part.

Women’s sorongs feature a middle section that is more intricate then that used by men, who favor sarongs with black or blue-black bases and horizontal bold stripes.

While men’s ikat are decorated with simple thick and thin stripes, the women’s are adorned with flowers, leaves or even motifs of animals such as horses, birds, lizards or the island’s famous Komodo cdragons.

The patterns have been influenced by the patola, a type of double woven ikat sari from India, brought to the island by Portuguese merchants in the 16th century.

There’s also some Javanese influence evident in the use of the Jelamprang pattern widely used in batik that favors motifs of tree branches and leaves.

Men and women also wear their ikat sarongs differently.

Men slip into their sarongs from the head, then fold the remaining fabric on their left and right into the middle of the body, and then rolling the remainder from the chest to the stomach.

While complex, the end result is a neatly tucked in sarong that is aligned with its horizontal pattern.

Meanwhile, women simply wrap the sarongs around their bodies, fold them so that they fall right under the chest, again folding from right to left, and tucking the remaining fabric into the sarong on the abdomen.

These sarong, or lawo as local residents call the garment, have several versions.

There are simple lawo for daily use and special lawo for traditional ceremonies and celebrations. They even wear lawo to keep themselves warm during the night. At first I was not convinced that a lawo could keep me warm, so I wore one on a short hiking trip to Mt. Kelimutu.

We left at 4:30 a.m. when it was cold. I was amazed at how the thick weave of my lawo kept me warm the whole morning, even when it was very windy on the mountain top.

Mama Maria shares stories of lawo with great enthusiasm. Her hands moved animatedly as she spoke, sometimes caressing the lawo she was wearing that afternoon.

She said one good lawo could take four to five months to make.

Originally, people use natural colorings, such as indigo leaves, to make the blue dye and noni leaves to make red or yellow dye.

While lawo made with traditional dyes can cost upwards of Rp 1 million, there are also lawo made using chemical dyes that are simpler to apply and resulted in brighter colors.

Makers today also mix traditional cotton yarn with fabric, which also results in less expensive lawo.

Mama Maria said that crafting textiles was a common job for women, who traditionally weave and dye at home as men worked in the field.

At the local market near the port of Ende, one small ikat shawl can be found for Rp. 100,000, while a bright colored sarong-size Lawo costs around Rp 700,000.

At Ende market, vendors sell ikat from various

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October 25, 2015 11

S E E I N G

T H E

B I G

P I C T U R E

Visualizing an identity: Saleh Huseun's Arabian Party Sitting on a bench in his office in South Jakarta, Saleh Husein talks with JPlus while holding a kretek clove cigarette between his fingers.

The painter was discussing the historical journey of the Arabian Party political party in Indonesia in the 1930s and 1940 – and his depiction of it in a installation of the same title.

Saleh, who goes by the nickname Ale, is an Indonesian of Arab descent. He’s been researching and inspired by the stories of the Arab community in the nation.

“I would like to show a work of art that is not solely a single piece of work,” Ale says of the piece. “It should have a specific central point, so that it leads me to create an installation.”

Born in Jeddah in 1992, Ale studied painting at the Jakarta Arts Institute (IKJ).

Ale family background led naturally to exploring Arab culture. His late father came from Yemen, while his mother is from Surabaya, East Java, where she lived near the city’s Kampung Ampel, which has a long history of hosting an Arab community.

“Arabian Party” is part of the “Time of Others” exhibition, which is slated to show at the Singapore Art Museum from Nov. 21 to February 28, 2016.

Joyce Toh, the curator of Singapore Art Museum, discussed the exhibition in an email interview.

“The exhibition takes up the notion of ‘otherness’ as a starting point from which we can begin to reflect on how we relate to one another, and ‘others’,” Toh said.

“In this regard, ideas of personal identity, individual memories as well as cultural and historical narratives are all brought to bear.”

Toh said that Ale’s work explored the relatively unknown history of Arab-Indonesians through the historical figure of Abdurraham Baswedan, a leader of the 1930s ArabIndonesian nationalist movement that gave the work its name. “[Ale’s] work draws deeply from archives and research, and like many contemporary artists,” Toh said. “His work reveals a deep dedication to remembering what has been forgotten or

overlooked in official narratives.”

Toh notes that Ale doesn’t work like an investigative journalist or academic researcher. “He goes beyond presenting his research as mere historical documents.

He transforms the photographic materials through painting the images by hand, so the presence of the artist is very keenly felt here.”

“Arabian Party” comprises 100 canvases that have been converted into panels for an installation, according to Ale. “I am curious to find the answer to why my family ended up in Indonesia and why I am here now.

All the canvases are history and each one of them tells a story.”

The work focuses on identity and not race.

“I don’t want people to think of the exotic element of the Arabic world, but rather to focus on something that can be learned about,” ale says. “My work is not just piece of decoration. Every element should tell a story. Composition, color and medium must talk about something.”

Contacted separately, Ruang Rupa curator Ade Darmawan said Ade’s works connected cultural identity and political history. “[Ale] uses an autobiographical method, so we can see simultaneously a big political narration and a personal narration in his work. He is on the right track.”

Meanwhile, Ale says that he’s not concerned about the commercial side of the business. “If the museum decides to purchase my work, it would be an advantage because public can see my

piece.”

As the guitarist for the famous funk/ jazz band White Shoes and the Couples Company, Ale says that his interests in fine art and music co-exist organically.

“The gigs jam normally on the weekend and only on a day or two in weekdays. We never have a specific target like trying to create an album or songs,” he said. “I use the weekdays to do my passion for visual art. But both come along naturally.

“When I get bored with music, I concentrate on visual art and the other way around,” Ale says.

Time of Others is a co-curatorial collaboration between 4 museums, and the exhibition was shown at the Museum of Contemporary Art, Tokyo and National Museum of Art, Osaka, before its stop at the Singapore Art Museum from 21 November 2015 to 28 February 2016. The exhibition will then travel to Queensland Art Gallery | Gallery of Modern Art in 2016

NEWS FOR YOU Gatot Pujiarto makes Singapore bow

Gatot Pujiarto is currently enjoying a solo show at the acclaimed Pearl Lam Galleries in Singapore.

The show focuses on Gatot’s figurative work, which is intended to amuse and provoke audiences to reinterpret daily stories as a new reality, the gallery said in a statement.

The Malang-born artist, who uses a distinctive collage and weathering technique on fabric applied on canvas or installed in the form of a tapestry, has previously had shows at the Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Roma (MACRO), in Rome, Italy; and

the National Gallery of Indonesia.

The Pearl Lam Galleries, which has over 20 years’ experience exhibiting Asian and Western art and design, is one of the most established contemporary art galleries to be launched out of China.

The exhibition will close on Nov. 15.

12

JPlus October 25, 2015

Visual Jalanan to tag, break, and bomb

Visual Jalanan (Street Visual) will organize an exhibition titled ‘Bebas Tapi Sopan’ or ‘Free but Polite’, running from Oct. 26 to Nov. 16 at the National Gallery.

As part of Jakarta Biennale 2015 program called “Maju Kena Mundur Kena”, which roughly translates as “Damned if you do, damned if you don’t”; the exhibit will be curated by Abi Rama and Andang Kelana.

Visual Jalanan, which will also showcase the works of those selected for the show on Instagram @visualjalanan, is a forum for public to share works of street art, such as murals, graffiti, posters, billboards and more.

Among the artists on display are ruangrupa and Stenzilla from Jakarta, Milisi Mural Depok from Depok, West Java, and Methodos and the Ace House Collective from Yogyakarta.

P rofi l e

Ruth Marbun

Sincere work

for a sincere art WORDS Handewi Pramesti Photos Courtesy Ruth Marbun

D

esigner and illustrator Ruth Marbun left Singapore and closed her brand Reckless Ericka back in 2011.

The graduate of the London College of Fashion in the UK said that she left Singapore to find some new challenge in her hometown.

Since then, the talented 30-year-old has been concentrating on ready-touse products, such as paintings, frames, postcards and other mementos displayed at Bollu, her small showroom and studio in Kemang, South Jakarta that has been open since 2013.

“I have a background in fashion and ready-to-wear mass production,” Ruth said.

“However, now I prefer to design products now, rather than work in fashion, simply because I like the challenge.”

Ruth describes why she likes working on a larger scale.

“We have to think hard to produce things that can be accepted by other people, without them telling us what they like or they need,” she says. “It’s not like an individual client, who comes to my shop and tells me what he or she wishes for as a product, but rather me showing them the final products.”

When asked why she chose to name her store Bollu, Ruth said it was a riff on the word bolu, or cake.

“Bolu are made from the same basic ingredients such as eggs, flower, margarine, and sugar - but if you don’t know how to mix them, or you don’t mix them in the

right way, they won’t help you to produce a good bolu,” Ruth says.

The same holds true for making art: great things are possible with a little help, she adds. “Plus Bollu is easy to pronounce by any language. It sounds catchy and I put double L to make it different.”

Working with her partner, Gita Anindya, who focuses on the marketing and commercial, Ruth caught the attention of a famous local mineral water brand, which invited her to participate in an exhibition to commemorate its 40th anniversary.

“My name was included in 40 artists and illustrators who were given a place to showcase our works of art together,” Ruth said. “They showed the accomplishment of Indonesia in 40 years.”

The pieces she created for the project were vivid montage realizations of 1983 –

the year batik received UNESCO status.

Creating sincere work is Ruth’s principle. She says that anyone can illustrate without having to have an art background.

This is one reason why she has been recently running art classes in the back room of the Bollu boutique, where about five people can assemble around a tiny table surrounded by piles of Ruth’s own illustrations.

“Students can produce any idea, even the worst idea, and depict it in an illustration.

There’s no need to create a state-of-the art masterpiece,” Ruth says. “Illustration technique is not my teaching focus. All I do is encourage students to not be afraid to produce their own work of art. I target students who don’t have art background.

In the meantime, Ruth is bent on

building her own skills as a busy freelance illustrator while improving Bollu as a business, casting an eye for expansion outside the nation.

“My challenge lies in the production chain. Both Bollu and I are developing simultaneously, particularly due to the ASEAN free market, she says. “I am hoping to have a system supporting both - and to penetrate bigger market in Indonesia and overseas.”

As a child…I was the shy one My guilty pleasure is…embarrassing myself My hidden talent…overthinking Words I use too often…hahahahahahha Five years from now…doing an exhibition in a country with a language that I don’t speak What keeps me busy…my overthinking superpower.

If I was not an artist…I would be sad but maybe making more money.

Me, in a song title …”Road to Nowhere” by The Talking Heads Most lasting childhood memory…drawing clothes that I couldn’t afford My friends describe me as…a person who lives in a bubble.

People would be surprised to know that I…don’t live in a bubble.

My famous-person dream date…Brandon Boyd Three things I would take with me on a desert island…A sketch book, painting tools and a Padang restaurant.

JPlus

October 25, 2015 13

tasteBUD

No

carriage needed BABY-WEARING REVIVAL GETS A FITNESS TWIST IN HONG KONG WORDS and Pictures AFP

baby, with other parents, being guided by a professional. You know everyone is in the same boat. Hong Kong can be a difficult and unwelcoming city for new mothers.”

H

14

igh up in one of Hong Kong’s ubiquitous skyscrapers a group of women are being put through their paces, straining against the weight of a novel training accessory -- their children.

Dubbed ‘Mumba’ these exercise classes are a new twist on the baby-wearing trend gripping mothers in the city.

Once the preserve of traditional communities, the art of wrapping a baby across a caregiver’s body so it can be carried during daily activities is being taken up by modern parents.

In Hong Kong, where narrow hilly streets and unforgiving urban landscape often render strollers and prams useless -- many frustrated parents are now going back to basics out of necessity.

Proving the old adage, invention has followed. ‘Mumba’ fitness, baby-wearing bellydance, ballet, yoga and pilates classes, and even suspension training (TRX) classes have sprung up in recent months -- all allowing parents to exercise while their baby is strapped to them in a carrier.

“There is huge demand from mums who wanted to get back in shape and to get strong again after the challenges of labor, but who also didn’t want to leave their young babies behind while they spent time exercising,” explains Ifat Hindes, co-founder of Mumba Fitness.

“We have combined different types of exercise including yoga, dance, TRX, and pilates, and the bonus is that you are using your baby for weight training,” she says.

“There’s no need for expensive gadgets -- it’s just you and your

JPlus October 25, 2015

Back in vogue While in many cities frazzled parents can soothe their baby -- and stretch their legs -- by strolling through the park with the pram, Hong Kong’s high-rise living and unwieldy streets can leave many here feeling trapped and lonely in relatively small apartments.

New mother Angela Gou explains: “I was looking for a way to get out and meet other mums. I always want to exercise but it’s hard to leave the baby at home. So these sessions solve the problem. Plus my baby likes it and thinks we’re playing a game.”

Most baby-wearing exercise programs recommend infants are three months or older to take part to ensure adequate neck control, and check positioning to ensure babies hips are protected.

Chartered physiotherapist Helen Binge, who runs pediatric firm Physiobaby, told AFP: “The growing trend to exercise whilst baby-wearing is fine, as long as the baby sling is very supportive, and the activity level of the baby wearer is not too vigorous.”

From structured types for sport to traditional woven cloth style, there is now a baby-wearing option for every occasion.

“Carriers have been used across cultures for thousands of years, but, like breastfeeding, went out of ‘vogue’ for a long period as people moved toward a more product-driven approach toward caring for small babies,” says Trish Kelly who cofounded Hong Kong’s Babywearing group.

She adds that renewed interest in natural birth and breastfeeding has meant traditional approaches to child-rearing are back in fashion.

“But for Hong Kong I think it comes down to practicality. Moms like what works. Baby-wearing is a practical way of getting around. It is notoriously wheelchair and stroller unfriendly -- I feel like every ramp has a set of stairs at the end.”

On every parent’s list Retailers and fitness services in the city have picked up on this desire for a practical solution.

Mey Jen, director of Oasis Dance Centre, adapted her traditional belly-dancing class to incorporate baby-wearing after requests from mothers desperate to keep up with their hobby once their children were born.

Hong Kong retailer Bumps to Babes has seen carrier sales jump by nine percent in 2015. Director Katrin Walker comments: “Virtually every new parent who comes into the store has it on their list and we highly recommend them. Parents that think a pushchair is the only thing they need invariably come back within the first month to buy one anyway.”

Brands such as Ergo, which has a carrier that allows the baby to be carried on the hip, on the front or at the back, are now as well known to parents as big stroller names such as Bugaboo and Maclaren in the city.

Mother-of-two Kelly says: “I have three high-end strollers that have sat mostly unused since I began wearing. It’s simplified things.”

Pump it up Exercise is good for your health, keeps your heart and lungs healthy during and after pregnancy and improves your mood throughout the postpartum period.

Healthy women need at least 150 minutes a week of moderate activity, such as brisk walking, during and after their pregnancy. It’s best to spread this activity throughout the week.

If you’re healthy and already doing an aerobic exercise like running, keep it up during and after pregnancy. Just keep healthy and talk with your doctor about how and when activity should be adjusted. + US CDC

tasteBUD

for the

soul

A RECIPE FOR SOPA DE LIMA, A CHICKEN SOUP FROM THE YUCATAN.

T

he temperature in Italy is dropping quickly these days.

In theory, it’s still autumn, but I can see from my window that the tips of the Alps are starting to turn white. With that comes chill breezes, sore throats and the colds. When this happens, a comforting bowl of spicy chicken soup is what I need.

Although its name only describes one of the characterizing ingredients, sopa de lima (lime soup) is actually a version of chicken soup typical of the Yucatan in Mexico.

Well, I’d be happier with a steaming bowl of soto ayam, but since lemongrass is quite a luxury here (€4,50 for 10 stalks!), it’s more likely for me to have the ingredients for sopa de lima already laying around in the refrigerator.

Just like many soups, sopa de lima is straightforward to prepare. Chuck all the ingredients in a pan, simmer over medium heat and you can pretty much do other household chores while the soup is cooking.

When I bumped into the recipe for the first time, I thought it was quite odd to use avocado in a soup, but I trusted that Mexicans know how to use the fruit best and the result pleasantly surprised me! Have faith and give the recipe a try, I’m sure you’ll be making this often during the coming rainy season!

• •

• • •

• •

serves 3-4 1/2 chicken 2 red chillies 1 small onion 1 whole garlic clove 1 stalk (5 cm) of cinnamon

5 cloves 10 whole white peppercorns A small bunch of coriander leaves 2 tomatoes 1 avocado 2 limes, juiced 50-100 g tortilla chips Salt

Place chicken in a deep pan along with the spices, coriander stalks, one tomato, onion, garlic and red chilies (deseed for less heat).

Cover with about 3 liters of cold water and simmer over medium heat for 1 to 1,5 hour until chicken is cooked and the liquid is reduced by approximately 30%.

Strain the soup with a sieve or colander into another pan to discard the spices, the wilted tomato, onion and coriander stalks.

Cut avocado into halves. Remove the stone, peel and dice. Finely dice also the remaining tomato.

Discard skin from chicken and shred the meat into strips by hand or using two forks.

Add into the clear soup along with the avocado and diced tomato. Adjust the salt.

Simmer for a couple of minutes just to warm tomato and avocado through. Turn off the heat, add the lime juice and stir.

Serve the soup hot with some tortilla chips and garnish with fresh coriander leaves.

Jakarta-born chef Theodora Hurustiati, a 13-year resident of Udine, Italy, was the runner-up in the TV cooking program La Scuola – Cucina di Classe (The School: Classy Cooking) in 2011.

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October 25, 2015 15

trendDIAL

Aurélie Biderman Capsule Collection

Looking for innovative jewelry? Check out Parisian designer Aurélie Bidermann’s capsule collection for Matches Fashion.

Who knews that Ginko leaves woul dmatch perfectly for the pieces? Inspired by Ginko’s shape, Bidermann devised precious talismans featuring necklaces and earrings made of 18-carat pink gold with ultramarine blue accents .The series looks refreshing yet sweet as is perfect match for every day use for everyday fashion – although the blue earrings will look dazzling for your Friday night out.

Catch them soon! This limited collection will only be available in matchesfashion.com this month.

Le Vestiaire des Parfums

YSL is set to release a cloakroom perfume series titled Le Vestiaire des Parfumes later this month, with five fragrances offering an olfactory reinterpretation of its dazzling wardrobe. Get ready to savor Saharienne, Tuxedo, Trench and Caban fragrances while matching your YSL wardrobe. Try the freshness of neroli and white musk with Saharienne; exotic patchouli and spices with Tuxedo; citrus, the earthy cedar and iris for Trench, and the sweet pink pepper, rose and tonka bean of Caban. This exclusive series will be available from October 26.

Relish,

savor & revere precious treats to be enjoyed

The Fat Duck returns

Topping the list of the world’s 50 best restaurant in 2006, the Fat Duck is slated to reopen after a year-long refurbishment in England’s country town of Bray. The brainchild of food-pairing connoisseur Heston Blumenthal, the jaw-dropping eatery requires you to reserve a £255 ticket per person to get in via thefatduck.co.uk. It’s surely worth to try for your bucket list, as the venue has three Michelin stars. If you get the chance, don’t forget to try Blumenthal’s famous umami-rich seaflavored “Sounds of the Sea” – as well as savory ice lollies made to look like Twisters, fabs and zooms.

Voo Store x Larsson & Jennings

Cross styles and go for a military-meets-preppy look with Larsson & Jennings and Berlin’s Voo Store latest timepiece collaboration this fall. On offer are two watches: a 40mm Läder and 33mm Liten that feature camopatterned leather straps and polished gold-plated cases.

Bucking the trend for military-style watches, this Swissmade series is suitable for ceremonial events and give the wearer a dapper demeanor. Available at Voo Store in Berlin or viavooberlin.com.

Spectre-Inspired Luggage

The impending release of Spectre, the latest cinematic outing of James Bond, has inspired luggage brand Globe-Trotter to release a new collection. Dominated by navy blues and blue leather, the series presents briefcases, passport folios, wallets, wash bags and duffle bags. With gold and black detailing, the Spectre series is masculine and lavish, yet remains suitable for men and women who adore a composed look - or for those who are simply fans of 007.

Luggage and accessories available via Globe-Trotter’s online store. +Banyubening Prieta

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JPlus October 25, 2015