Vol. 3 No. 1 I NOVEMber 22 - 28, 2015
iN SEMARA'S REALM bali's premier resort collection and its opulent properties
KOREA’S 10 SKIN CARE STEPS A JPLUS BEAUTY GUIDE
A CHAOTIC LOVE LETTER FASHION WEEK REDUX
NEITHER FORWARD NOR BACK THE JAKARTA BIENNALE RETURNS
Editor's note
Check List
it's our cake day! We’re pleased that our beauty contributor, Fedina Sundaryani, used her time off from the newsroom at The Jakarta Post, where she covers crime and the police, to tell us about Korean make-up routines. While not a user of cosmetics, I appreciate Ifa’s step-by-step guide through the hard-core and extreme world of beauty regimens. After checking out our extended report on Jakarta Fashion Week (courtesy of the always delightful Willy Wilson), look at our cover story on the Semara resorts (courtesy of the equally delightful I Wayan Juniarta, who moonlights as the Post’s Man in Denpasar). Meanwhile, we’ve got a brief sidebar in our monthly ARTPlus section on art classes, all taught by some of the most popular young artists working in Indonesia today.
While some of the classes are aimed at teenagers and adults, Club Kembang is starting small, with classes aimed at kids as young as 18 months. I appreciate how these artists are democratizing their work – and looking to build a “maker’s” sentiment among people old and young. Finally, it’s our birthday! This edition – our 105th - marks the third anniversary of JPlus, so we’ve put together a few of our more popular covers (at least as far as we can tell from social media). It's a pleasure
crafting each issue of JPlus, especially when an editor has a chance to work with designers, photographers, stylists and writers who give unstintingly of their gifts and expertise. To all our contributors – and to our kind sponsors and loyal readers – I say thank you on behalf of JPlus. Enjoy the weekend!
Chris Razukas jplus@thejakartapost.com
mark my words
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More from JFW's catwalk
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Heri Dono in Singapore
PRACTICAL and TIMELESS
ARTPLUS
JPlus Team
WISH UPON A STAR MICHELIN’S RATING SYSTEM AND THE GOURMET UNIVERSE Words KEVINDRA P. SOEMANTRI
Editor Christian Razukas Art Director Budhi Hartono Graphic Designer Hengky Wijaya Marketing & Advertising Sales & Marketing Director Ady P. Pamungkas
ady.pamungkas@thejakartapost.com
Marketing Executive Deasy Rasjid
deasy@thejakartapost.com
In October, gourmet restaurants around the globe, albeit those in the Michelin Red Guide belt, celebrated the launch of the tire company’s acclaimed list of eateries for 2016. The process remains the same: At 7 p.m. the week before the guide was launched, chefs nervously waited with decreasing patience for a phone call from a Michelin inspector to reveal how many stars they would be given this year. Thanks should be given to the tire company for creating such amazing benchmark. But when we are talking about the star-rating system for the gourmet universe, is it only the Michelin guide that needs be respected? Or there are another kinds of rating systems, institutions or people that we need to know about? After the birth of the Red Guide, Andre Gayot, Henri Gault and Christian Millau, also known as the masters of gourmet hospitality in France, launched Le Nouveau Guide, based on their own expertise and capability in the restaurant industry. At that time, the trio of gourmands went against prevailing culinary traditions by promoting artistically prepared food, new grand cooking techniques and fresh ingredients on each and every page of Le Nouveau Guide. The publication was eventually transformed into the Gault & Millau food guide, which, it is said, might even be more
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JPlus November 22, 2015
reliable than Michelin. As we move to the northwest of France, to the island of Great Britain, a Hungarianborn food critic, Egon Ronay, with a fine background as a hotelier and restaurateur, published his owned food guide, the Egon Ronay Guide to British Eateries. Egon Ronay gained popularity among British people; while for restaurants, it became a mark of distinction to be mentioned in the book. The guide is also credited with raising the awareness among chefs to produce quality food in their restaurants. Another star-rating system we should note came courtesy of The New York Times newspaper. After the Michelin guide, The New York Times is known as the most powerful – dangerous – rating system in the US. Star ratings have been given by the newspaper’s chief restaurant critic since the 1950s. The feared critics (for reviews could make or break a restaurant) included Craig Clairbon, Gael Greene and Ruth Reichel. Differing from other guides, which offered three stars as the zenith of achievement, The New York Times opted for a four-star system. It could also give some restaurants a unique “half star”. Of course like many other inspectors of the gourmet guides, The New York Times restaurant critics go incognito for their reviews. Some even venture out in disguise to preserve their anonymity.
Until now, The New York Times has been the most powerful newspaper star-rating system in the world. As we travel to the Southern hemisphere, we reach the Australian continent, where stars have been replaced by the “hatted chef” of the Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide. This recognition for years was known as the finest and most reliable rating for restaurant and chefs in Australia – and has taken on special significance since the vibrant cuisine of Australia’s chefs has been heralded in every corner of the earth. The phenomenon of the star-rating system is actually good for the restaurant industry. These benchmarks will help restaurants give their best performance to the diners, from the moment they come in to the final petit four is given, because chefs and servers have no idea who is sitting there, gazing into the dining room, perusing menu in such manner. But as for Indonesia – and much of the rest of the world? Our restaurants have not registered on their radar – mostly because Michelin confines itself to specific cities. Which is a shame – restaurants everywhere could benefit from a rating system, which would make chefs everywhere wait by the phones, hoping for accolades. Mark My Words shifts focus between food, fashion, parenting and travel each week.
@JPlusSunday JPlusSunday
SundayJplus jakplus.com
ON THE COVER Finn's Beach Club at the Semara Luxury Villa Resort in Uluwatu, Bali Photo Courtesy of Semara
talk of the town CHRISTOPHER KOSTOW AT THE MULIA
AFRICA ON A WALL Radio Dalam, South Jakarta
Hotel Mulia Senayan, Central Jakarta
Three-star Michelin chef Christopher Kostow recently gave guests at the Hotel Mulia Senayan's Orient8 restaurant a weekend indulgence to remember. For the nights of Nov. 13-14, he cooked them food that drew upon his American upbringing and evoked all their senses with his innovative culinary techniques. Kostow is world-renowned for being the third-youngest chef ever to receive three Michelin stars. A Chicago native, Kostow has trained in kitchens far and wide, including in Paris. His debut book, A New Napa Cuisine, was released in 2014.
A 20-meter mural depicting African history and culture was recently installed in the Radio Dalam area to introduce a positive image of African culture to the Indonesian public. Designed and painted by three young Indonesian artists, and opened by key members of the African diplomatic community, the project is the brainchild of Vanilla Remix, a global initiative aimed at disseminating knowledge of Africa – in this case, through street art. The Africa Wall, as the mural is called, shows off famous African artists, leaders as well as traditional and cultural artefacts, symbols and mythologies.
JOHNNIE WALKER CAMPAIGN LAUNCHES IN RI Colosseum Club Jakarta, West Jakarta Scotch whisky brand Johnnie Walker recently celebrated the Indonesian launch of its international "Joy Will Take You Further" global marketing campaign with a lavish party at the Colosseum Club Jakarta. The Indoor Dance Music Festival, or INSANE, as the Nov. 13 event was called, featured a performance by Swedish duo Dada Life as the main act. INSANE also showcased a ground-breaking mural installation by graffiti artist Darbotz, created using 100 Johnnie Walker bottles in a frame hand painted by the artist and his crew.
DESIGNERS MEET TO TALK WOOD
Kebayoran Baru, South Jakarta Following up on The Jakarta Post’s recent discussion on trade in sustainable forestry products; a host of designers, architects and forestry experts met for a lunch at Patio on Jl. Wijaya 13 to discuss the Indonesian Legal Wood program. Hosted by Miranti M. Lemy, the editor in chief of BravaCasa magazine, and the acclaimed designer Luthfi Hasan of Jakarta Vintage, the event gave some of the nation’s top makers a chance to learn about how to use wood that has been harvested sustainably. The event was the brainchild of the Multistakeholder Forestry Program, which touts its voluntary program as a boon for local exporters.
JPlus November 22, 2015
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good living
Korean skin care
101
or why you shouldn’t be scared to layer ten products every day Words Fedina S. Sundaryani
remove any trace of makeup without drying out your face. Make a gentle, circular motion with your fingers to massage and clean off your base, lipstick and eye makeup, making sure that none of the cleanser gets in your eye. Not only will you get rid of makeup, but the massaging is believed to increase circulation, which leads to brighter skin.
Step 2: Cleansing
S
omewhere between the turn of the century and the mid-2000s, Indonesia was overwhelmed by the Korean Wave. Not only were we introduced to K-Pop and K-Dramas, but we realized that Korea’s idols and actors had bright, pore-less complexions – even on our HD television screens. Although the notorious “Korean 10-Step Skincare Routine” that those idols use may seem intimidating, with its intense cleansing and moisturizing, the experience can be extremely therapeutic – and the results equally as rewarding. Sasya Aile, from Indonesian-based Korean beauty blog hellosasyachi.com, said that the focus of the routine was like any other found in the beauty world, offering promises of clean, bright skin free from spots among other things. “However, a lot of Korean skin care products contain ingredients that are more natural, including many that are found on Jeju Island,” Sasya says, referring to Korea’s famed resort island. Although some may think that the long list of products needed for a single routine is unnecessary, Sasya said that every step was important in order for your skin to reach its highest potential. But don’t be deterred, she adds. “In my opinion, the most essential step is the use of a serum and a moisturizer,” she said.
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JPlus November 22, 2015
Step 1: Eye Makeup Removal
Removing makeup, especially eye makeup, is one of the cardinal rules of the Korean skin care routine, as boosting your skin to its highest potential can only be done with a completely blank canvas. Cleansers, such as Etude House Real Art Cleansing Oil, are currently very popular, as they gently
Double cleansing is a big deal in the routine, not only to ensure a clean face – but also to get rid of the oil cleanser. Splash your face with lukewarm water before applying a cleansing foam, such as The Face Shop Rice Water Bright Cleansing Foam, for a gentle deep cleanse.
Photos Courtesy of brands
Step 3: Exfoliation
While exfoliation is still a pretty debatable topic in the Western beauty world – Should we or shouldn’t we? And how often should we? – it is an essential step that should we done at least twice a month, but no more than once a week, to make sure you have no dead-skin build up. Sasya cited her favorite exfoliator as TonyMoly Floria Peeling gel, which is a chemical exfoliant. It’s packed with alpha-hyrdroxy acids, such as lactic acid, to remove layers of dead skin from the surface of your face and reveal baby-butt-like skin. Just pump out a quartersized drop and massage into the skin with circular motions.
Step 4: Toning
Toning can be such a drag, especially with the mostly drying formulas of Western toners. However, Koreans believe that using a toner, often called a refresher, can restore your skin’s pH balance while soothing and prepping your skin for the other layers of skin care. Although pricey, SU:M37’s Time Energy Skin Resetting Refining Toner is hydrating and can be applied with a cotton pad or just patted on with the palm of your hands.
Step 5 & 6: Essence and Ampoules
Now this is where it gets a little tricky: What are essences and ampoules and what’s the difference between the two? Using both can be a boon, but is definitely not essential. Sasya said that essence and serums were essentially “the same product” but sometimes in Korea they devise names to make products seem different even though they function in the same way. However, ampoules are supposed to be used before serums to boost the skin care products that will follow. Sasya's favorite is Sulwhasoo First Care Activating Serum, which contains several Korean medicinal herbs, such as membranous milkvetch (to boost circulation) and dwarf lilyturf and liquorice (to restore your skin’s natural healthy radiance).
Step 7: Sheet Masks
Sheet masks are inexpensive, Instagramworthy and immediately effective! The wet, papery masks are soaked in nourishing ingredients, such as collagen or aloe vera, and worn for a maximum of 20 minutes twice a week. The mask acts as a barrier that forces your skin to absorb the ingredients before the product has a chance to evaporate. Once you’ve got one on – the Etude House I Need You Mask line is great and has 17 different types to choose from – sit back, put on a fun movie and enjoy a glass of wine while your mask works its magic. Don’t worry, you’ll soon be rewarded with plumper, brighter skin and a newfound skincare addiction.
Step 8: Eye Cream
It’s never too early to start wearing eye cream. Just remember not too drag the thin skin around your eyes but tap a product such as Innisfree Eco Science Eye Cream to push the product in.
Step 9: Moisturizing
Stay strong. Your skin may feel a little sticky but there are only two layers to go! There is no doubt that moisturizer is the one product that you cannot miss and Sasya says she currently enjoys using Laneige Water Bank Moisture Cream. Once again, massage the product in for more blood circulation and to ensure that the product truly penetrates your skin.
Step 10: Night cream
Nighttime is the optimal time for your skin to recharge so that you can truly say #IWokeUpLikeThis when you post that morning selfie. Laneige’s Water Sleeping Mask is a bit of a cult product and currently Sasya’s favorite choice for the night. It claims to purify, moisturize and soothe so that your skin is fresh and revitalized in the morning. This product is a little too hydrating for the daytime, so after using your normal moisturizer, just apply your favorite base makeup as usual or totally skip makeup to show off the best your skin’s been.
Still scared to venture into the Korean skin care world? This list may be long but the routine probably only takes 15 to 20 minutes every evening, not including sheet masks, and your effort will definitely be rewarded. Just look at the routine as a little pampering session – not only to reach your goal of great skin, but to help you to wind down in time for bed.
JPlus November 22, 2015
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cover Story
Semara’s Realm
Villa Gajah Putih
THE SEMARA COLLECTION HAS SECURED A PLACE AS ONE OF THE TOP HOSPITALITY PLAYERS IN BALI Words i wayan juniarta
Splash Waterpark Aerial
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cover Story
Finn's at sunset Bounce Trampoline
Strike Ten Pin Bowling Cubby House Kids Club
its name from the Balinese word for amorous love. Their first project was the Semara Resort and Spa in Kuta’s trendiest region of Seminyak. The Semara team managed the design, construction and interiors of the boutique resort, which includes the Cubby House Kids Club, Semara Spa and The Deck Sports Bar. The Semara Collection owned and managed this highly successful business until February 2015, when it was sold to a Singapore-based company. That first project prepared the company for making a bigger leap in 2011, when it launched Semara Luxury Villa Resort and Finn’s Beach Club in Uluwatu, one of the island’s top destinations. The historic Hindu temple that is perched on a towering cliff facing the Indian Ocean and a long stretch of pristine white sandy beach are the key factors behind Uluwatu’s popularity. The Semara Luxury Villa Resort turned out to be a big success, adding a new dimension to fantastic family holidays. Its exquisite villas, which boast private infinity pools and unparalleled vistas, are immensely popular with large families who want to stay – and play – together during holidays. Surprisingly, the Semara Luxury Villa Resort also drew a large number of lovestruck couples wishing to say “I do” with the blue ocean and liberating sky as the backdrop.
Canggu Club Lap Pool
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Villa Gajah Putih Bale
Photos Courtesy of semara
ith attractive properties ranging from an immensely popular villa resort and beach club in Uluwatu to a club boasting the island’s most comprehensive sporting facilities for kids in Canggu; the properties of the Semara Collection have succeeded in booking a large and lavish place for themselves in Bali’s hospitality landscape. The resort management company was established in 2009 by Australian businessman and former professional football player Tony Smith and his long-time Balinese friend I Ketut Subina. The latter is a native of Tabanan and has more than 15 years of experience in the tourism industry under his belt. The company takes
The resort’s success convinced the company that an opulent beach front property with excellent staff designed to pamper big families was the way to go, when a majority of the players on the island were busy constructing blocky city and budget hotels. Semara later acquired Villa Gajah Putih, which was built in the 1980s as one of Bali’s original villas. It is located on an absolutely gorgeous part of Berawa Beach with a 105-meter-long stretch of sand lying directly in front of it. A growingly popular beach, Berawa is the gem of Canggu, a village that now has become the go-to place for expatriates and holiday-goers looking for an authentic experience without abandoning the urban conveniences. It is just a 15-minute drive from Seminyak, where the best dining, shopping and nightlife in Bali are located. Given its slightly out-of-town setting, Villa Gajah Putih has the double attraction of being relatively close to everything one might need, while being far enough away to retain a peaceful rural feel. The surrounding villages are traditionally Balinese and retain large expanses of pictorial rice fields. The villa has five principal bedrooms and two junior suites, affording sleeping arrangements for as many as 22 people. Each bedroom is air-conditioned with an en suite bathroom. The floor and ceiling of the bedrooms are of unique polished ironwood, and each bedroom has at least one glass wall overlooking the ocean or gardens of the property.
We understand the place, the people and the culture. I think that makes the difference - that makes us able to change and adapt quickly to the environment. JPlus November 22, 2015
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cover Story
Suite Room at Semara Luxury Resort
Finn's Cliff Edge Burger
The bathrooms have marble walls and floors, with large, high-screened windows and plantation shutters to allow circulation and keep out insects. Most bathrooms have double vanity sinks, double showers, a large bathtub and bidets. Private dining in the villa is an epicurean expedition as guests can discuss their preferences with the chef and then create something special. The company is now building a beach club on the land next to the villa. Building on the success of its Uluwatu’s Finn’s Beach Club, the new club will have an all-bamboo construction, sand-covered flooring, a 60-meter-long stretch of beach, and a gorgeous view of the sunset. “It will be open in May 2016 and surely will add another fascinating gem to the Semara Collection,” the company’s director of sales and marketing, Kelly Sturgeon, said. It was a humid afternoon and Kelly
Semara Luxury Villa Resort
The resort’s success convinced the company that an opulent beachfront property with excellent staff designed to pamper big families was the way to go. 8
JPlus November 22, 2015
Finn's Beach Club
Body Temple Spa
was taking shelter inside a cool restaurant at Canggu Club, the company’s newest acquisition. In the adjacent Splash Water Park, groups of children were outmaneuvering the scorching heat with the help of the colorful sliders and spacious pools. “We acquired the property in June 2013 and spent 12 months afterward carrying out renovation and expansion of its all facilities,” she said. Set on a sprawling four-hectare estate among Canggu's rice fields, the club features a fully-equipped fitness center, which includes a lap pool and sports ground, a tennis center, the Body Temple Spa, a sports bar and multiple restaurants. The Splash Water Park is Bali’s newest water park and home to the Giant Racer, a five-story high and 90-meter-long slide that can have up to four friends racing at the same time, and the Speed Racer for the younger kids. The club also boasts the Bounce Trampoline Center, the first and only facility of its kind in Indonesia, Strike Ten Pin Bowling and Cubby House Kids Club. “We are receiving a large number of visitors from Jakarta and other major cities in the country, who visited the club to give the trampoline a try,” Sturgeon says. Bounce has a specially-designed, springloaded frame that allows you to bounce higher. All frames and springs are covered by two-inch-thick safety pads. Under the Semara Collection, the previously members-only club is now open for all with day passes available at
reception. Its new credo, “Something for Everyone”, aptly captures that change of approach. “To limit yourself to one demographic is not a particularly good idea,” she adds. Kids and teenagers, however, are obviously still the main target of the club and it indeed offers a fantastic program for them, including the JSA (Junior Sport Academy), which aims at teaching new sporting skills to children while being active, having fun, and making friends. “We have some great people to train the kids in sports, including a former Italian Olympic swimmer and a former UK professional soccer player,” Sturgeon says. Semara Collection has enjoyed a robust growth since its inception and Sturgeon is optimistic that it will continue to do so. All of Semara’s top brass are based full-time in Bali and Sturgeon says that is one key reasons behind the growth. “We understand the place, the people and the culture. I think that makes the difference – that makes us able to change and adapt quickly to the environment,” Sturgeon says. To give back to the community, the Semara Collection is involved in charitable activities, including hosting a event for Solemen Indonesia, that raised over Rp 100 million for the disadvantaged. “The company has 600 employees and a lot of them are from the local communities. For instance, up to 60 percent of the Semara Luxury Villa employees in Uluwatu are from the surrounding villages,” Sturgeon says.
Beach HEaven Those who love white sandy beaches, bright sun and the deep blue sea will easily be enamored with Finn’s Beach Club. Nestled on the southernmost tip of Bali, Finn’s Beach Club is a hidden oasis on a 180-meter-long stretch of beach that can be accessed only by inclinator from the Semara Luxury Villa Resort. It has become so popular among the beach-lovers that on a busy day the club can host up to 800 people. Its Tree Top Bales are available for guests booking a VIP Experience. Hidden amid the cliffs offering an unobstructed view of the ocean; it is the perfect place to unwind, drink and laugh with a select few in privacy. A new sun deck, which can seat up to 90 guests, adds more charm to the club and provides a stunning venue for guests organizing private events. The club is open daily from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m, and entrance fee is Rp 250,000 for adults and Rp 50,000 for children aged 3-11. The fee includes use of inclinator, food and beverage credit, towels, sunbeds, stand-up paddle boards, kayak, snorkeling equipment and free wi-fi.
good LIVING
GALERIES LAFAYETTE
Cosmic Christmas Cosmic Christmas get ready for a shopping experience of intergalactic proportions
Holiday spirit
Galeries Lafayette will infuse the spirit of Christmas into edgy and futuristic gold-silver decorations displayed throughout the store. Don’t miss your chance to experience daily surprise gifts and hampers featuring selected brands from Galeries Lafayette. As part of Galeries Lafayette’s "Christmas Top Spender" program, Win a 4 days, 3 night luxury stay at the magnificent Raffles Hotel Singapore – including breakfast and legendary Singapore Slings for the top spender with a minimum purchase of Rp 70 million. Or share the Christmas spirit with a free gift card worth Rp 100,000 with a minimum purchase of Rp 3 million. A drawing for surprise gifts will be offered daily from Nov. 19 to Dec. 25, at Lafayette Service on Level 1, with winners selected from those making a minimum purchase of Rp 5 million. Giveaways include selected treats from Nikkie, Lancome, Agatha Paris, Eleven Paris, Brooks Brothers and Piquardo, among many others. Galeries Lafayette will continue your space adventure, sharing space with Royal Selangor, which has teamed up with The Walt Disney Corporation Southeast Asia to offer a special limited edition series of exquisite Star Wars figurines, featuring Darth Vader, Han Solo and Princess Leia, as well as snowspeeders and assorted iconic vehicles and characters from the films. As a bonus, hard-core fans can enjoy a portrait sketched with their favorite Star Wars character from the Royal Selangor collection, with every minimum purchase of Rp 4 million.
Photos Courtesy of galeries lafayette
G
aleries Lafayette, the purveyor of the best in style and global fashion for men and women, has plans to make the capital merry as December approaches. To celebrate the upcoming Christmas holiday – and to welcome another year – the curated department store is planning a series of events offering fantastic styles, designs and elegance for the festive season. Keeping with the spirit of Christmas dreams come true, Galeries Lafayette is taking inspiration from the release of the latest film in the famed Star Wars saga to throw a month-long celebration featuring the theme “Cosmic Christmas”. The festivities kick off with Golden Night, an exclusive invitation-only trunk show from the famed designer Tex Saverio, with performances slated by Joshua Ledet of American Idol and singer Andre Hehanussa. Get ready to travel around the planet in a galactic-themed holiday setting inside Galeries Lafayette, where “Cosmic Christmas” will transport you into the future. Staying true to its reputation as an all-time favorite holiday shopping destination, Galeries Lafayette has plans to take you to a new level of shopping experience, with exclusive gifts to add joy to the Christmas celebration.
There will also be a collaboration with the Walt Disney company to sell Disneythemed products, ranging from pillows and apparel to shoes and toys on the first floor. Take a break from shopping to enjoy the pop-up market inside Galeries Lafayette and enjoy chocolate from Lindt, as well as cheesecake, popcorn and a selection of teas. If you’d like to take some of these delicious flavors home – or if you’re eager to share the holiday spirit with others – take a look at the special Christmas hampers from Elantier and Tea et Al. On offer from Elantier are a Gatsby bottle vintage room spray in hard gift box, a crystal canister, gold trinket dish, a special Christmas blend tea, premium cookies, and Christmas greeting card with gift tag.
Meanwhile, Tea et Al presents its gold tin collection, its mini-tin collection, a Duchess tea bag, potato cheese crisp, mini-fruit tarts, almond crisp cookies, sugar sticks and sparkling fruit beverages. The hampers are available to purchase starting at Rp 1,785,000, with discounts for Galeries Lafayette Fidélité members. Amid the high spirits of the season, take some time to explore the unique shopping afford by Galeries Lafayette, as well as an attractive range of Christmas offers. This includes exclusive winter collections, fit for those planning to celebrate the year-end holiday in winter destinations abroad, as well as the latest selections from labels such as Eleven Paris, I love fashion and Sonia by Sonia Rykiel. Galeries Lafayette Pacific Place galerieslafayette.co.id
JPlus November 22, 2015
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wanderLust
mUST-SEES IN MUSCAT EVERYTHING YOU NEED FOR YOUR NEXT EXOTIC VACATION Words Maura Walters/Bloomberg
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JPlus November 22, 2015
wanderLust
T
he capital city of Oman, home to one of the most open societies in the Middle East, has historic souks, stunning architecture, and the highest mountain range in the region. Here's a quick guide.
See the Ancient City The Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque is an enormous marble fortress that holds 20,000 worshippers. Arrive at 8 a.m. to avoid the crowds, and if you’re a woman, wear nonrevealing clothing and a head scarf. Afterward, navigate the dense, winding alleys of the Muttrah Souk. While there, pick up some frankincense essential oil, cultivated from small trees that grow in Oman’s southern mountains. It’s said to have anti-aging powers— add a few drops to your night cream. sultanqaboosgrandmosque.com
Master the Old Traditions At the Bait Al Zubair Museum, there’s an excellent collection of jewelry, costumes, and Bronze Age household items. Make sure to tour the grounds, which contain a re-creation of an historical Omani village, complete with an ancient water system, or falaj. Two medieval Portuguese forts, Mirani and Jalali, can be seen from outside the museum. baitalzubairmuseum.com
onions and tomatoes; and shuwa, beef that’s roasted in an underground fire pit. Have dinner at Al Angham, a restaurant in Muscat’s royal opera house that serves seafood soups and slow-cooked lamb. baitalluban.com, +968 24711842, alanghamoman.com, +968 22077777
Dine on Salted Shark Meat For lunch, try Bait Al Luban in the central city. Order traditional dishes such as katchori, potato patties served with mango chutney; Awal salad, preserved salt shark served with
Be King for a Day Book seats at the Royal Opera House, which looks more like an Arabian palace
Find an Adventure Paragliding Drive southwest to Dibba, a small town that extends into three countries. The Six Senses Zighy Bay Hotel, in the Omani part of the region, is so remote that the best way to arrive is to paraglide off a cliff to the resort’s grounds. Unwind in your own private pool, or go scuba diving in the Sea of Oman, right at your doorstep. From $659 a night; +968 26735888, sixsenses.com Photos via bloomberg
Sleep Near the Beach From Muscat International Airport, take a taxi to the Chedi, a gorgeous 21-acre oasis with 158 guest rooms and villas on the Sea of Oman. The space combines traditional Middle Eastern design (reflecting pools, foundation courtyards) with Easterninfluenced Zen gardens. The Chedi has a 13-suite Balinese spa, three swimming pools and six restaurants, including one that serves dinner on the property’s private beach. From US$450 per night; +968 24524401, ghmhotels.com
Dune bashing When the sun rises, take a 4x4 through the dunes of the Sharqiya Sands, three hours from Muscat, or
than a theater. Placido Domingo, Andrea Bocelli, and Yo-Yo Ma have played there, yet tickets for most performances, even big names, are about $16. Then take a nighttime stroll down the boulevard that leads to a real palace, Al Alam, the 200-year-old residency of the Sultan of Oman. Or take a day trip north to Nizwa, where a 17th century fort has foundations that are 100 feet deep. rohmuscat.org.om for opera tickets.
venture to the immense Rub’ al Khali desert in the far south of Oman. The area remains largely unexplored and tourist-free. Desert Nights Camp offers accommodations, dining, and excursions from $115 per person per night; +968 92818388, desertnightscamp.com Caving The Al Hajar mountains, four hours away, have a huge network of underground passageways, including the Al Hoota cave, which has public access. Visitors can go on a 40-minute tour to see stalactites, stalagmites, and karst crystals covering the walls. Sun and Sand Safari offers two-day excursions for two people, including private vehicle transportation for $1,040; +968 99373928, sunandsandtours.com
JPlus November 22, 2015 11
S E E I N G
T H E
B I G
P I C T U R E
Neither Forward Nor Back
THE JAKARTA BIENNALE RETURNS focused ON THE PRESENT It was a busy day for Riksa Afiaty, one of curators of the Jakarta Biennale when JPlus arrived at the exhibition’s venue, a shipping warehouse that was being transformed into an arts space. Artists were seen busily preparing for the launch of the event, which began on Nov. 15 and runs until Jan 17. The theme for this iteration of the biennale is “Maju Kena Mundur Kena: Bertindak Sekarang” which translates roughly as “Neither Forward Nor Back: Acting in the Present”. “The title was chosen because we want to show the situation of our artists and society,” Riksa said. “Artists and visitors are invited to celebrate small victories today, without having to be trapped in the past – or in a utopian future.” The response of the 71 selected artists to the theme has been varied. According to Riksa, some see history as a distortion: “Today, history exists because of decisions made in the past – and some of the artists are critical about the present day. For example, we are trapped in globalization terms or we misunderstand the message behind a concept.” When asked about the works that responded best to the biennale’s theme, Riksa was diplomatic. “There is no competition in Biennale. All the works are seen as one work – and as a mutual fulfillment.” One particular work Riksa cited as interesting, however, was done by the
Photos Courtesy of jakarta biennale
Words Handewi Pramesti
31-year-old Banyuwangi, East Java-born sculptor Leonardiansyah Allenda, who uses his art to explore issues surrounding ecotourism. “He specifically made a narration about ecotourism in his hometown, Banyuwangi, which has been misunderstood by people. I think his interpretation is brilliant,” she says. According to Riska, Leo produced an interesting piece by questioning the false meanings of ecotourism, such as those who claim that they support ecotourism by building a big villa on a mountain. “It should be the opposite. It is the tourists who should respect nature, and it is they who should be given an education about ecotourism,” Riksa said. “But who
am I to judge? Works of art inform us about something to us and we shouldn’t judge.” Riksa said that the works at the biennale took three different forms: research, projects and on-site works. “Like Dan Perjovschi from Romania,” she adds. “He just arrived and once he entered the exhibition hall, he started to work." She continues. “All he needed to create an idea for a piece was to chat with a taxi driver while passing through the north, where the airport is located, to Central and South Jakarta. In each area he passed,
he got ideas that were reflected in his piece. It will be interesting to see his work. He reflects on the daily routine in Jakarta.” Riksa described the selection process as culling 71 artists for the event from more than 100 under consideration. “We have to position ourselves as equals with artists. Some artists failed, some backed out. When that problem happened, we had to search and look for new artists. It was challenging because artists have their own point of view.” The Jakarta Biennale runs until Jan. 17. For more information, visit jakartabiennale.net.
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JPlus November 22, 2015
Bring it on
f o cus
SINGAPORE’S POST-MUSEUM BRINGS ITS FREE MARKET TO INDONESIA Words Handewi Pramesti
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ne unique part of the Jakarta Biennale is The Jakarta Really Really Free Market, which has been brought to Indonesia by Jennifer Teo, the director of the Post-Museum in
Singapore. The Post-Museum, which bills itself as Singapore’s only independent cultural and social space, operates without government funding and shares films, music performances, art exhibitions with the community. It is also known for its “free market” idea, where people offer their unwanted goods to others, at no cost. Eclectic crowds are regularly attracted to the Post-Museum for the event: teenagers and would-be hipsters, curious middle-aged local residents, the occasional odd tourist and a host of migrant workers – people on the fringe of Singaporean society who can find a space to interact with the larger society where they live. JPlus was interested in the background of the piece and how it might be translated in the context in Jakarta, so we caught up with Teo over e-mail. Below are extracts from our interview. What’s the idea behind the Free Market? It started in the USA as an anti-globalization protest against NAFTA in 2003. The Really Really Free Market (RRFM) is a non-hierarchical collective of individuals, who form a temporary market based on an alternative gift economy. It aims at counteracting capitalism in a proactive way. It holds as a major goal to build a community, based on sharing resources, caring for one another and improving the collective lives of all. Post-Museum has been organizing the Singapore Really Really Free Market since January 2009, and has also created with local communities various RRFMs in
Photos Courtesy of jakarta biennale
Thailand, Japan and the UK. The guidelines for Jakarta Really Really Free Market (JRRFM) are: Nothing is sold or exchanged within this space, the public is encouraged to have a giving, sharing and caring heart, and everyone is free to participate and participants should organize among themselves. Why bring it to Jakarta? The Jakarta Really Really Free Market (JRRFM) seeks to explore new alternatives to the existing economy in Jakarta. It is a celebration of the value of giving and sharing through this public “exhibition”and the notion of “you are not alone”. This small utopia will encourage community participation
and bring some hope to the current gloomy economic outlook by reminding participants that profits and financial gains are not essential priorities. Why have the display in Marunda? The issues raised by the artwork are relevant and important for everyone and we would like more people to participate in the artwork and think about the issues. The event in Marunda is only for one afternoon while the display in the main venue of Jakarta Biennale is ongoing until the end of event. What response do you wish from the Indonesian audience? We hope the audience can
participate by generously contributing items. We also hope that after Jakarta Biennale 2015, the audience can take ownership of the artwork and continue to use it as a platform for community bonding and self-improvement. Why title the event “Neither Forward Nor Back”, the theme of the biennale? The artwork is closely linked to the theme of Jakarta Biennale 2015. It is about what we can do now to create a better society. It is about sharing the knowledge and resources we have, and taking steps to value the community and improve the society we are in.
NEWS FOR YOU
PICK UP A BRUSH AND PAINT
Award-winning Indonesian artist Heri Dono is currently holding a solo exhibition of his works at the Mizuma Gallery in Singapore. The exhibition, set to run until Jan. 10, is named “JOY/FEAR”, a title that refers to the mixed feelings one gets when examining his works, which often employ monstrous wayanglike figures. At a glance, these figures might look scary, but look into the details and one will find humor in them. Their designs reflect the wild mix of joy and fear that often accompany politics in Indonesia. Since the 1980s, Heri’s works have been loaded with political criticisms.
Club Kembang, the brainchild of arts activist Adinda Simanjuntak, has been working with Tita Djumaryo’s Ganara art school to offer regular weekend classes aimed at kids. What’s unique is Ganara teaches art history along with art. Recent classes have seen kids paint in the style of Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama, craft sculptures inspired by Alberto Giacometti’s Walking Man and make creations inspired by Louise Comfort Tiffany’s art-deco masterpiece Wisteria Table Lamp. (facebook.com/clubkembang or ganaraartstudio.com). Meanwhile, the exhibition “Exis(t) #4: The Food Files” runs until Dec. 15 at the dia. lo.gue café and arts space in Kemang, South Jakarta. The brainchild of FX Harsono, Exis(t) #4 features a host of new talents, who will also offer a series of classes to would-be artists of any age. ARTPlus alumna Ruth Marbun will speak on mixed media arts projects, while Cempaka Surakusumah will give a papercutting workshop and Januar Rianto will give a graphic design workshop (dialogue-artspace.com). Meanwhile, Edwin’s Gallery will be presenting a watercolor workshop by the artist Muhammad Taufik, better known as EMTE, for those aged 15 and above on Nov. 21 and 28 (edwinsgallery.com).
Photos Courtesy of mizuna
Photos Courtesy of facebook
HERI DONO AT MIZUMA GALLERY
JPlus November 22, 2015 13
a la Mode
Sensible designs
for real women TWO INDONESIAN DESIGNERS ARE CHANGING THE WAY WE THINK ABOUT DRESS Words Willy Wilson
Patrick Owen’s Jakarta Theatre
Designer Patrick Owen’s 2016 spring summer collection, “Jalanan” (The Street) is a love letter to the colorful and chaotic streets of Jakarta. A denim mini-dress with a print on the front panel opened his show at the recent Jakarta Fashion Week, setting a vibrant dynamic that was consistently present throughout the collection. Illustrators Emte and Tatiana Romanova Surya helped translate Owen’s idea of digital prints into shirt dresses and t-shirts. The quirky prints depict the capital icons such as the Fatahillah Museum, as well as a series of abstract renderings of texts and human figures. While his signature billowy sweatshirts are making a comeback, it was his play with deconstructed tailoring that really stole the show. Owen, whose style aesthetic has always been entrenched in wearable street fashion, demonstrated superb technical details with sharp yet
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JPlus November 22, 2015
playful tailoring. Take, for instance, the print striped suit modelled by actor Rio Dewanto. The double breasted suit is slim at the elbows and waist, and cut deliberately shorter on the wrist. There’s a noticeable absence of buttons (it seems like the buttons are sewn in the lining) – a subtle but fiercely modern twist to such a traditional form of clothing. Owen’s genius lies in the fact that he has just the right amount of wacky extras in his designs, as evident in the deformed human figure on the oversized lapel. When he applies the same technique to womenswear, one can’t help but reminded of Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul Gaultier’s rawand-refined mixtures. “Jalanan” was far is the most refreshing show at the fashion week. Despite its runway theatrics, the collection has a clear commercial appeal. Those leather totes with huge pin clasps are probably sold out by now.
Over the past few years, one name that keeps popping up in Jakarta’s fashion circle is Toton Januar. He broke into the industry in 2012, and quickly earned a prominent spot in the market, not the least because of his affable personality. That his creations are elegant, practical and timeless is a given. But the most interesting part of his pieces is the intricate thought process behind the designs. Toton’s ability to deliver clean designs with deep cultural references has earned him spots at the prestigious Paris Fashion Week over the last few seasons. The former model maintained the same strategy for his 2016 Spring Summer collection, which was also showcased at Jakarta Fashion Week. Toton says of the collection: “The starting point of every collection is always based on my instincts. This time, I’m influenced by my late grandmother, who was passionate about batik and kebaya.” Her favorite traditional print motif is of a rooster, which is believed to be influenced by Chinese and European cultures. The idea of cultural mixing appeals to him. Although his inspirations are traditional, the executions are unapologetically modern. Takeing a quick look at his collection, one might not immediately see any traditional elements he was referring to. But that’s exactly why he’s a genius: Toton is the
kind of designer who processes and reinterprets inspirations into wearable, subtle and understandable modern wear. So you’ll be disappointed if you expect a festive rooster motif. Instead, the rooster has been given a modern makeover with a digital print. This motif appears on a sleek blazer dress. Toton explored the theme further, incorporating floral motifs on cap-sleeved tops and golden embroideries on wide belts. The mixture of old and new is a recurring theme in his design. But the one piece that truly captures the essence of his aesthetic is a knee-length skirt with an overlay of strings and pearls in geometric arrangement. Another interesting element is the hem of fringes appeared in a few number of items, including, rather curiously, in sandals.
Photography: Courtesy of Jakarta Fashion Week
Toton Januar’s Cosmopolitan Appeal
tasteBUD
When The Leaves Turn Amber & Crimson A RECIPE FOR PUMPKIN PIE WORDS AND PHOTOS THEODORA HURUSTIATI
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otanically speaking, it would be more correct to call this a recipe for squash pie rather than pumpkin pie. While I’m not sure of where to exactly draw the line, it seems that pumpkins are bigger and rounder – just think about the ones used to make Jack-O’-Lanterns on Halloween. Pumpkins are just a variety of squash. By any other name, I know it’s time to buy a pumpkin when the leaves around me turn amber and crimson. They’re usually harvested in autumn – just before the weather gets frosty – and can last all through the winter without deteriorating if kept whole and stored correctly. One classic dish featuring squash is pumpkin pie, the staple of Thanksgiving banquets in the US. While many recipes call for canned pumpkin puree, I prefer to make a pie from scratch. I reckon that butternut squash, with its dense orange and sweet pulp, is the best for the purpose, although Indonesian labu parang or Japanese Hokkaido and Kabocha squash are good too. I’m quite concerned about my growing muffin top, so I hope readers won’t mind if my interpretation of the pie isn’t as rich as the ones their mothers and grandmothers usually make!
Serves 6 to 8 Pastry crust 250 g flour 100 g caster sugar 125 g cold butter 1 egg
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To make the pastry crust: insert flour, sugar and cubed cold butter into food processor with blade attachment. Pulse for 30 seconds until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Add egg and pulse for further few seconds until the dough starts to come together leaving the food processor walls clean (See “Easy Summer Berries Tarts” in JPlus on August 9th for tutorial pictures). Divide pastry into two equal parts and cover with cling film. Chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. You need only half (about 250-275 grams) of the pastry for the recipe. Freeze the other part for a future pie. Meanwhile, prepare the filling. Peel squash and discard the seeds. Cut into 4-cm chunks. Place on an oven tray, cover with aluminum foil and bake at 165° for 30 minutes until tender. You should have about 300 grams of cooked squash. Cool to reach room temperature. Once cooled, reduce squash pulp and cream into a puree in a blender. Transfer into a bowl and incorporate the rest of the filling ingredients. Once pastry is rested, dust the kitchen counter with flour and roll the pastry to a 3-5 mm thin disc. Line the bottom of a 20-cm pie tin with parchment paper. Place and press the pastry disc carefully onto it. Trim the excess dough from the edges using a pairing knife. Prick the bottom with a fork. Cover the pastry surface with aluminum foil and fill the hollow with ceramic baking beads or dried beans. Bake crust in the oven at 165° for 15-20 minutes until it’s slightly golden. Remove the baking beads and the foil. Pour the filling into the crust and bake again at 150°, in the lower part of the oven, for about 35-45 minutes until it’s set. Cool before cutting the pie into portions or it will break easily. Serve with a dollop of whipped cream if you wish.
Filling 600-700 g butternut squash 150 g fresh cream 100 g caster sugar 20 g cornstarch 2 eggs ½ teaspoon cinnamon powder A generous pinch of grated nutmeg
Jakarta-born chef Theodora Hurustiati, a 13-year resident of Udine, Italy, was the runner-up in the TV cooking program La Scuola – Cucina di Classe (The School: Classy Cooking) in 2011.
JPlus November 22, 2015 15
trendDIAL
Hermes x IKAT TIME & OAK WHISKEY ELEMENTS
Whiskey enthusiasts, get ready for Time & Oak’s whiskey flavor enhancer that will elevate your sipping evening. While the “Whiskey Elements” look like small pieces of wood, they are actually pieces of barrels previously used to age whiskey. Equipped with these flavorpacked bits, you can prepare a top-shelf drink at home to your own (exquisite) taste. Time & Oak’s Whiskey Elements contain three different notes – maple, smoke & oak and wine cask. Mix your own whiskey by adding one Element to a fifth and wait 24 hours. Afterwards, savor your flavorful concoction with care. Various flavors are available online at Time & Oak’s website starting at US$15.
Looking for a lavish cultural dining experience? Hermés is set to release an ikat-inspired porcelain tableware series, Voyage en Ikat. The French fashion house created a unique concoction representing long-distance voyage from Asia to the West. More than 20 hues, centered on gold emerald, sapphire and ruby, are completed by 24-carat matte gold. Applied by hand, the gold highlights the base of bowls, the rims of plates, as well as cups and handles, creating a juxtaposition suggesting sweet femininity and exotic tactility.
whatever you
desire
FROM RETRO GLAMOUR TO GALACTIC DELIGHTS DITA VON TEESE FOR MAC
Retro glamour is officially back. Pin-up princess Dita Von Teese is set to release her classic red MAC lipstick. Dita collaborated with MAC, inspired by the launch of her latest book, Your Beauty Mark. The smoldering red lippie is offers a matte finish, resulting a combination of “glamour and femme fatale”. This poppy red will be an ultimate weekend killer, just like her previous red shade, MAC Viva Glam. Meanwhile put this on your Christmas list, as it will be available online and in selected stores in December.
STAR WARS-INSPIRED URAL MOTORCYCLES
Time to make your Star Wars dream come true: Washington-based Ural Motorcycles is releasing a Star Wars-inspired series. Available in only 25 units, the $15,000 motorcycle is an official tie-in with the latest edition in everyone’s favorite space opera. The bike is equipped with a 749cc OHV air-cooled two-cylinder, four-stroke boxer engine and rendered in a gloss black paint with matching ceramic-coated exhaust. To complete your “Dark Side” experience, Ultra includes a high-power LED headlight and an extendable toy Lightsaber mounted to the sidecar. The Ural Dark Force sidecar motorcycle can now be reserved online on Ural website, imz-ural.com.
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JPlus November 22, 2015
MICHAEL KORS EXTREME BLUE FRAGRANCE
Searching for an ultra-luxe experience? Michael Kors has released a new men’s fragrance, Michael Kors Extreme Blue, with bergamot, cardamom and angelica seed as its base notes. However, the scent is undeniably masculine, with a woody aroma that suits this fall season. Other rich and indulgent notes feature juniper, cypress, patchouli, sesame and ambrox that will fit any occasion. With just a couple sprays the fragrance will last well into the night. Michael Kors Extreme Blue is available for £45.