Jplus 2016 01 17 lores

Vol. 3 No. 9 I January 17 - 23 , 2016

A GOOD FOUNDATION A JPLUS BEAUTY GUIDE FEARLESS FASHION DAVID BOWIE’S LEGACY WANDERLUST SANCTUARY IN PANTARAN

CLOAKED IN HISTORY ATILAH SOERYADJAYA ON SAVING THE PAST

Editor's note

Check List

carry on We send heartfelt condolences and good wishes to those affected by the events on Thursday. However, after an evening of thought, I’d rather say too little than too much about the incident.

I don’t want the people behind this to think we are shaken. I’m also concerned that extended discussion risks bringing the global focus to Indonesia for all the wrong reasons.

What’s happened won’t change the way I feel about our city. As the person who sets the tone for JPlus, I want to continue to share with you the good news that continues to come out of Jakarta.

The author Richard Oh, for example, organizes the Kusala Sastra Khatulistiwa literary awards. The event’s 15th edition was held at the (still open) Plaza Senayan shopping center on Thursday evening, on schedule (Talk of the Town, p3).

Meanwhile, don’t forget that Gandhi Fernando, who graced our cover on Jan. 10, has a new movie out this week, Midnight Show. It deserves a look, if you like smart horror and suspense films.

Among the articles for you in this issue, Fedina Sunyardi, who has had a busy few days as The Jakarta Post’s police reporter, has filed a story as our beauty writer

(Looking Good, p13), and senior contributor Duncan Graham takes us to Pantaran for some Javanese-style divination and enlightenment (Wanderlust, p10).

Next week, we’ll have a travel cover story on Bandar Lampung and Lampung, so please send us questions via your social medium of choice with the tag #takemeawayJPlus.

Enjoy the weekend!

10

WANDERLUST

Exploring Pataran

Chris Razukas jplus@thejakartapost.com

13

mark my words

my Jakarta, My Gastropolis The evolution of eating in the capital WORDS KEVINDRA P. SOEMANTRI

looking good JPlus guide to foundations

JPlus Team Editor Christian Razukas Art Director Budhi Hartono Graphic Designer Hengky Wijaya Marketing & Advertising Sales & Marketing Director Ady P. Pamungkas

ady.pamungkas@thejakartapost.com

Marketing Executive Faisal Ahmad

A few days ago, I found myself at a hip Spanish restaurant in Central Jakarta, meditating on how far dining in Jakarta has come from the days when Cantonese and Dutch/Indonesian restaurants defined what constituted haute cuisine in the city.

Jakarta has changed since the 1970s, when international and Continental cuisine began to flourish here, in line with a boom in hotel openings.

There was the Jakarta Hilton International by Indobuiltco, owned by Gen. Ibnu Sutowo. It was a place of prestige, where the city’s youngsters could dine in its Peacock Cafe and then get down in its Oriental Disco.

The neighboring Taman Sari Restaurant was also an elite venue, with exotic dishes such as tournedos steak Rossini on the menu.

Around the same time, the venerable Sari Pan Pacific Hotel introduced a black forest cake craze to euphoric diners, while the Aryaduta Hotel, before its takeover by the Lippo Group, was famous for its Japanese restaurant, Shima.

There was also the Asoka Hotel, near where the Grand Hyatt and Plaza Indonesia now reign, that was considered the finest place to seek out Korean delicacies.

Meanwhile, generals and tycoons mingled to sip Johnnie Walker at another famed venue, the Nirwana Supper Club in the Hotel Indonesia.

For those outside the ring of power, the

2

JPlus January 17, 2016

faisal@thejakartapost.com

hotel also offered down-to-earth-delicacies such as ice cream sundaes–and comforting bubur ayam–at the Java Room, Indonesia’s first luxury coffee shop, 10 floors below Nirwana.

The 1990s saw another significant lifestyles change: The rise of the luxury mall, which got underway with the opening of Ratu Plaza, followed by Pondok Indah Mall, Plaza Indonesia and Mall Kelapa Gading.

The opening of Plaza Senayan in 1996 was a particular high-water mark.

The multitudes were thrilled by the all-inone concept–which also saw the introduction of Western-style food courts to the city’s culinary scene.

Remember the famed nautically themed Dermaga food court at Pondok Indah? Or the Betawi Spicegarden at the lower ground level of Plaza Senayan?

I remember being confused by the number of choices on offer, from classic American roasted chicken at the now-closed Arby’s to modern Indonesian sate at the Sate Khas Senayan Express counter.

The 1990s were also an era when the palates of children first received attention from local restaurateurs.

It became mandatory for modern restaurants to serve a kid's menu, something that I rarely see these days. The Spaghetti House, Sweets From Heaven, TGI Friday’s Kid's Menu, the Cafe Wien Kid's Menu these

are just a few examples.

While the advent of the new millennium saw the rise of thematic restaurants and magnates such as Ismaya and the Boga Group; a Great Culinary Awakening gained traction in 2009, when the hubbub surrounding the Masterchef cooking competition reached a high.

At that time, the neighborhoods of South Jakarta, such as Kemang and especially Blok M and Melawai were the coolest and most fun places for food.

Flash forward to today – and the waves of change still come. New areas have arisen, such as Senopati.

Previously the site of Emilie, Gahyo Korean and the first Holycow steak-chain, Senopati is now home to the Yellowfin sake restaurant, which competes with Mount Scopus group’s Chateau Blanc as well as Sake+ by the wine group Vin+.

At Pasar Santa, traditional treats are served with modern execution (think kue cubit married with Japanese green tea and Oreoes), while at Pantai Indah Kapuk, we’re spoiled for choice for Korean food at restaurants such as Bornga or Soreae.

And here we are, at the dawn of 2016, full of excitement and curiosity and thinking “What’s next?”

Mark My Words shifts focus between food, fashion, parenting and travel each week.

@JPlusSunday JPlusSunday

On the cover

SundayJplus jakplus.com

Atilah Soeryadjaya Photographer: Meutia Ananda Stylist: Ananda Adityasanti MUA: Bun Lay (08159910482) Wardrobe: Private Collection Location: Soeryadjaya Residence; Menteng, South Jakarta

talk of the town PHOTO INSIGHTS INTO INDONESIA West Mall Grand Indonesia, SCBD

THE GARUDA IN RETROSPECTIVE Taman Ismail Marzuki, Central Jakarta

Indonesia’s global reputation for environmental beauty, cultural wealth and a friendly populace inspired nine photojournalists to capture the country in a photobook titled #IniNegriku–A Visual Journey.

Created in collaboration with Garuda Indonesia and Samsung (whose NX1 cameras were used to take the photos), the book was launched at Galeri Indonesia Kaya on Jan. 13.

It shows the everyday lives of people in 10 places across the country, including Ende, Putusibau, Langgur, Ternate and Banyuwangi, as documented by photojournalists working for Forbes Indonesia, Reuters, the Associated Press and Kompas, among several others.

To remind us of the Garuda's importance, students at Mercu Buana University in Jakarta and Sayap Garuda Productions recently hosted a two-day series of exhibitions and seminars on the historical significance of the Garuda in Indonesia.

The Jan. 8-10 event at the Cipta III Gallery at the Taman Ismail Marzuki arts center in Central Jakarta also presented an art show, historical documents and various forms of memorabilia that showed off the history of the Garuda as a symbol of Indonesian nationalism.

PAUL ANDREW CELEBRATES NEW COLLECTION Plaza Indonesia, SCBD

Kusala Sastra Khatulistiwa awards honor nation’s literati Plaza Senayan, SCBD

On Pedder recently invited award-winning footwear designer Paul Andrew to Jakarta for an exclusive cocktail evening to celebrate his Spring/Summer 2016 collection.

During this Jan. 12 event in Plaza Indonesia, Andrew's Hong Kong-inspired new collection was showcased alongside a display of On Pedder’s best curation of new season arrivals.

The British-born Andrew spent the evening mingling with special guests and customers over canapés and champagne.

Andrew also spoke of how Hong Kong’s intersections of craft and industry and tradition and technology inspired his new collection.

The Kusala Sastra Khatulistiwa awards were held on Jan. 14 at the main atrium of Plaza Senayan to recognize the achievements of the nation’s writers.

Top honors for poetry went to Joko Pinurbo for his compilation titled Surat Kopi (Coffee Letters). Joko also won the Khatulistiwa award for poetry in 2004 for his collection Kekasihku (My Beloved).

Meanwhile, the poet and former journalist Dorothea Rosa Herliany won the honors in the prose section for her debut novel Isinga: Roman Papua (Isinga: A Papuan Romance).

The awards, the brainchild of author and filmmaker Richard Oh, marked their 15th iteration this year.

JPlus

January 17, 2016

3

a la mode

Take A Bowie JPlus looks at David Bowie’s chameleon styles and finds out what makes him an eternal fashion muse.

Words Willy Wilson

T

hat the late David Bowie, who died this week at 69, will be an eternal style icon is a given.

But for a lot of people, cat suits and rubber boots on a skinny man is nothing more than a drag show. So why does everyone in fashion keep referring to Bowie as a fashion icon?

There’s no easy way to answer that question. But let’s make it clear that fashion isn’t merely about what you put on. Fashion is an ideology: A state of mind and a way to express ideals and fantasies. Bowie is a fashion icon today for two reasons.

He was part of a generation that rebelled against the institution in the late 1960s and early 1970s, around the era when fashion and music came together as a powerful force against convention– and against sartorial indifference.

Bowie managed to create a visual realization of his own dream, while at the same time injecting fantasy into our real world.

The music and the clothes he wore were his vehicles to travel from reality and fantasy. And that’s why he’s a fashion icon.

Truth be told there have only been a few pop icons who managed to influence fashion the way David Bowie did.

Most stars stick with a public persona that sells–usually revolving around their sex appeal–the celebrities that we typically see on stage and television: They follow fashion; they don’t inspire fashion.

What made Bowie, born David Robert Jones, unique was that he understood the power of reinvention.

His was a statement that was always way ahead of his generation–an exaggeration of style that was controversial and philosophical, but always sophisticated.

His stage alter egos - from the Thin White Duke and Ziggy Stardust to Aladdin Sane and Major Tom pushed counterculture ideology of the era to the limit.

As the swinging 1960s slowly folded into the flower power of the 1970s, the then 23-year-old Bowie went androgynous.

His signature look of this era comprised a halo of flowing locks and patterned fur, oozing an oddly uncomfortable self-referential sex appeal that was

4

JPlus January 17, 2016

shocking even in the sexual revolution era.

As the whole world romanticized the Bohemian lifestyle, Bowie turned himself into Ziggy Stardust, the orange-haired character with a futuristic Japanese look.

Designer Kansai Yamamoto is the man responsible for Bowie’s iconic appearance in this era. His design aesthetic–bold, innovative and gender-bending–helped cemented the musician’s reputation as an eccentric entertainer.

Bowie was cooler than the London blokes–and way too futuristic for New York block.

Fashion, as Yamamoto understood things, set Bowie above the rest.

But when he donned a pair of freaky black-andwhite striped cat suit, with circular cuts on both sides, it was clear that his fashion wasn’t just meant as a controversy. It was a real avant-garde statement.

Perhaps the most intriguing Bowie look was the flamboyant pirate that happened somewhere between his Bohemian and Futuristic personas.

His neon tufts of mullet, and those crotch-crushing high-waisted body suits, paired with floaty checkered blouses and an eye patch, personified glam rock at its best.

“I always had a repulsive need to be something more than human. I felt very puny as a human. I thought, ‘[expletive deleted]that. I want to be a superhuman.’," Bowie once commented on his look.

In the next few decades, Bowie’s style became more refined and daring at the same time.

Journalists needed to invent a new vocabulary to describe his clothes, haircuts and make-up.

Phrases that often came up were “astronaut suit” and “space-influenced”–but perhaps the most apt adjective is glamorous. No one–not even Beyonce’s Sasha Fierce

or Cher–came close to personifying glamour the way Bowie’s Ziggy Stardust did.

Just when everybody thought he was going tranny chic, Bowie came up with The Thin White Duke.

This was the phase when the fashion world started to take Bowie seriously.

He masterfully combined a Mancunian post-punk aesthetic, classic pleated trousers and roomy suits hat was more American Gigolo than the Godfather.

He often finished his looks with trilby hats, trench coats and sharp knitwear–all of which hinted at a tamer, more refined Bowie.

Still, his style was fundamentally playful and androgynous–and, in the long run, will be enduring.

good living

How to Get Your Bedroom Into the Met Museum Hint: Sleeping in it won’t help WORDS James Tarmy, bloomberg

A

Existing on Berkeley Square The Lansdowne Dining Room: Designed by Robert Adam on the Southwest corner of Berkeley Square in London. the Met’s text noted that the building “had the dubious distinction of belonging to two of the most unpopular British statesmen of the eighteenth century.” It had the similarly dubious and yet infinitely more dire distinction of being “in the way of the municipal government, which was changing Berkeley square,” KislukGrosheide said. The dining room, in turn, was slated to be ripped down, but “the Met stepped in and saved it,” she said.

Going Broke Room from the Hart House: Not for broke.

Actually broke. “In the 1920s, curators really wanted the room,” said Peck. “They asked the family at the time who owned it if they’d be willing to sell, and they said no—they were using it as a tea room, for people to come have lovely colonial teas.”

Then the global depression of the 1930s hit, and the family discovered that there was not, it turned out, a sufficient market for lovely colonial tea to sustain their livelihoods. “At that point they were in dire straits, and they sold it,” Peck said. “They were in the Great Depression and the room was a commodity.” The house, located in Ipswich, still stands.

Going Shopping Boudoir from the Hôtel de Crillon: In 1906, Jeanette Dwight Bliss, wife of wealthy New York banker George T. Bliss, began to build a mansion that still stands on East 68th Street.

She went to Paris to look for interior decoration for her new house. At the time, the Hôtel de Crillon was a private mansion in central Paris owned by the Ducs de Polignac. “She bought it right out of the building,” said Daniëlle KislukGrosheide, a curator of European decorative arts. “She must have walked right in there.” In 1942, in turn, Bliss’s unmarried daughter Susan downsized; instead of selling the room, she donated it to the Met.

Becoming a Tool of the French Revolution Boiserie from the Hôtel de Varengeville: “The French period rooms are very beautiful and contain some of the most spectacular pieces of French decorative arts outside of France, but they’re not complete rooms,” said Kisluk-Grosheide. “The fabulous paneling came from aristocratic homes inside Paris”– including the paneling above–”but most of the furniture came from royal situations.” And by “situations,” Kisluk-Grosheide is referring to the decapitation of Marie Antoinette and her husband, Louis XVI, and the subsequent fire sale of royal possessions to fund the fledgling French republic’s war budget.

Existing in Baltimore The Baltimore Dining Room: “A lot of these rooms had been through multiple owners by the time they got to us,” said Amelia Peck, curator of American decorative arts. “And some of them had transitioned from very lovely residential neighborhoods into [...] something else.”

This room, which the Met purchased with its original woodwork intact, “had been turned into some kind of workshop,” Peck says. “Some of these houses weren’t even being used as houses.”

Luck The Worsham-Rockefeller Dressing Room: Commissioned in 1881 by Arabella Worsham, the wife of a railroad baron, and later sold to John D. Rockefeller, who lived in the house for the better part of 50 years, the dressing room was first installed in the Museum of the City of New York. When that museum offered it to the Met, “we were just finishing the multi-million dollar redo in the American Wing,” said Alice Cooney Frelinghuysen, a curator of American decorative arts. “The idea of taking another period room was kind of crazy.” After a year’s worth of conservation and “documenting everything within an inch of its life,” she said, the room was installed.

JPlus

January 17, 2016

Photos via bloomberg. courtesy metropolitan museum of art

dressing room, i.e., a large closet devoted explicitly to the putting on and taking off of clothing, has just gone on permanent display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. The room, labeled the WorshamRockefeller Dressing Room after its two previous owners, is a dizzying, gildedage assemblage of competing wallpaper patterns, woodwork, and metal ornament.

Still. The Met has one of the largest and most important collections of art in the world: Why did a dressing room end up migrating from a house slated for demolition on West 54th Street to a museum’s hallowed halls? And what, for that matter, did every owner of the three-dozen period rooms do to get their homes on display?

By narrating the history of the following rooms, three of the Met’s curators have helped supply an answer to what it takes to get your bedroom into the Met.

5

cover Story

Cultural Cultivator Atilah Soeryadjaya talks about her batik collection, theatrical productions and vision for promoting national culture to the young Words Aulia R. Sungkar | Photos Meutia Ananda

6

JPlus January 17, 2016

cover Story

E

nter the home of Atilah Soeryadjaya in Menteng, South Jakarta, and your eyes will feast on a beautiful range of artwork, decorations and furniture, most of which come from the private collection of the late famed batik fashion designer Iwan Tirta.

“There was a strong inner relationship between me and mas Iwan,” says Atilah. “He was just like my own brother. We had many things in common, especially when it came to cultural taste. Most of what you see in this house was his. He wanted me to take care of the collections. So, I moved my stuff to another house of mine and keep Iwan’s here."

Atilah, a socialite, traditional arts activist and theater producer, is the founder and president director of PT Global 3L, a company that has produced two successful theatrical plays: Matah Ati and Ariah, both based on true stories with solid traditional cultural themes.

During a recent JPlus interview and photoshoot, the 54-year-old expressed concern about a growing lack of appreciation for the nation’s culture–and a desire to stage more plays to promote Indonesia’s heritage.

The Legacy of Iwan Tirta Born Bandoro Raden Ayu Atilah Rapatriati, Atilah is one of the granddaughters of Mangkunegara VII, the king of Surakarta, Central Java.

In 1998, she married business tycoon Edward Soeryadjaya and she later helped manage his business.

“I thought to myself, ‘We have to restore the image of Solo as a center of Javanese culture.'"

Having grown up in a Javanese palace, Atilah has the rich and ancient traditions of Java running through her veins, which might explain the origins of the shared passion Atilah had with Iwan for culture and the arts.

Atilah said that she wants to build a house dedicated to Iwan, to honor the work he did to preserve Indonesian culture through his creations.

“I’d love to build it in Solo [the nickname of Surakarta], as I knew him since my childhood in the city.”

In a tour of her home, Atilah showed JPlus her batik collection. There are about 2,000 pieces: 800 or so from Iwan Tirta’s eponymous brand, the rest showing the various motifs of batik makers in Solo and Garut, West Java.

“I’ve always been amazed by the art of batik making, which gives birth to various rich and artsy motifs,” Atilah said. “I often don’t see price as a measurement in choosing a piece of fabric. I don’t mind buying a piece of inexpensive batik,

JPlus

January 17, 2016

7

cover Story as long as it has nice design and is appropriate for me. My batik collection is varied, from those I purchased for less than Rp 100,000 to over a million rupiah,” Atilah says.

The mother of six continues. “Batik is also a reflection of national pride.

And I’m glad to see that more and more people wear batik as their attire.”

Local Pride At the helm of PT Global 3L, Atilah has produced two epic theatrical plays.

The first, Matah Ati, tells the dramatic story of Rubiyah–one of Atilah’s ancestors–who fought against Dutch colonizers in Surakarta alongside Raden Mas Said, also known as Prince Sambernyowo.

The play also includes a romance, where the prince takes Rubiyah as his wife and she changes her name to Raden Ayu Matah Ati. “It took me two-and-a-half years of both research and preparation. The idea of producing Matah Ati came after reading news in Singaporean

publications that dubbed my ancestral home, Solo, as a terrorist haven. That’s not true,” Atilah said.

“I thought to myself, ‘We have to restore the image of Solo as a center of Javanese culture”. A large group of as many as 400, comprising of dancers, choreographers and court musicians–all from Solo–got down to regular practice before we finally debuted the play in 2012 in Singapore.”

Matah Ati was staged in Singapore at the Esplanade, in a modern venue that combined the contemporary with classical Javanese dance and music.

“The play was a striking success with numerous reviews, mostly in positive tones, from Singaporean publications,” Atilah said. “It was a great step toward restoring Solo’s reputation as an art and culture hub.”

Following the success of Matah Ati, then-Jakarta governor Joko “Jokowi” Widodo asked Atilah to produce a play for the capital’s anniversary in 2013.

“At first, I told pak Jokowi that the idea was impossible, as he made the

“At first, I told pak Jokowi that the idea was impossible, as he made the request in January for a play to be performed in June. That’s less than six months!" request in January for a play to be performed in June. That’s less than six months!” Atilah said.

After consulting with her team, she decided to take the challenge and stage Ariah, which traced the rise and fall of an ordinary Betawi (or indigenous Jakartan) who becomes kingpin of the local thugs.

The production, Atilah says, was twice as big as Matah Ati, with a crew of almost 1,000, including 300 dancers, and a huge stage erected at the National Monument that was 72 meters long and more than 24 meters deep.

“That was crazy preparation, as I myself was directly involved,” Atilah says. “I had to make 22 compositions of traditional Betawi songs in matter of days.”

Jay Subiakto was involved in both productions as artistic director and

UP CLOSE My favorite artists I admire almost every piece of Basuki Abdullah. I also like the works of Dullah, who happened to be my uncle. Going to Europe, the French impressionist Paul Gaugin is undoubtedly one of my favorites.

Fashion designers I admire Of course Iwan Tirta and also Obin for their batik, Ghea Sukasah for her casual

8

JPlus January 17, 2016

scenographer.

In a separate interview, Jay said that he’s eager to work with Atilah again.

“Matah Ati and Ariah are so far the only [plays] that exhibit the rich values of traditional Indonesian culture. I wish for more such epic performances to be staged in the near future. It’s time for today’s generation to start appreciating local culture.”

Matah Ati continues to be staged, albeit on a smaller scale, at various venues, including the Salihara arts center in South Jakarta. “We recently staged the play in Kuala Lumpur,” Atilah says.

Asked about her next project, she smiles. “It’s still a secret, but it’s coming.

It will be a story with a historical, traditional and cultural legacy. My next project is where I will aim at the younger generation to start them preserving our rich traditions and culture.”

wear. As for overseas designers, I like Donna Karan and Hermes for dresses and accessories, and Chanel and Fendi for bags.

Speaking of food Local dishes are always on my favorites list. I especially like empal [beef cutlets], sayur lodeh [creamy coconut milk vegetable soup] and nasi liwet [succulent rice cooked in coconut milk with various dishes]. As for foreign food, nothing can beat Japanese fare. It’s healthy and light.

wanderLust

BALQUISSE

Heritage Hotel A capsule review for travelers Main buildings date to the 1960s and were renovated over the years by interior decorator and owner Zohra Boukhari from Morocco. The hotel is set among an abundant Balinese garden in the surrounds of an old coconut plantation.

The vibe

A 13-room sanctuary in southern Bali near Uluwatu and Jimbaran. Peacefully enveloped by a flowering garden. Rooms and outdoor spaces feature Zohra’s carefully chosen antiques and knickknacks, vintage trunks, tables, decorative lanterns and rich fabrics. Fine silks add glamour to the natural, distressed woods and terracotta tiles. Private three-suite function house is available with butler and housekeeping services. When reserving all three suites, guests can take breakfast, lunch and dinner within its living/dining room.

Room facilities

Superior rooms are individually designed and recently refurbished, featuring lavish textures and subtle organic color tones. Larger deluxe rooms, each with a distinguishing design, feature private terraces or separate sitting areas. Decor blends modern and contemporary touches. A family room offers a downstairs space for adults while the children can be tucked away on their own mezzanine floor–and can enjoy a garden full of butterflies, swimming pools, children’s

DVDs and a kid’s menu. Junior and master suites in the Shaba function house feature silky Moroccan carpets sweeping across a cooling floor of traditional hand-made tiles, while light breezes refresh the rooms, coming from across the coconut grove. Rooms also feature central air conditioning, a safety deposit box, phone and mini-bar, pre-loaded iPod, a king-size bed with additional bed possibilities for children as well as a desk area. Rooms can be made to accommodate the perfect start to a honeymoon, in true romantic style.

Rooms also offer hats, sarongs and beach towels.

Dining in

Asam Garam, the on-site restaurant, features a terrace affording peaceful garden views and enchanting sunsets, when the birds come out to sing. Decor features old photographs and unique furniture pieces evoking colonial times, while the menu features dishes inspired by Indonesia, Bali and Asian fusion. American breakfast included and prepared by staff. Also serves an “Archipelago Rijsstafel”, composed of small individual dishes invented by the Dutch during the colonial occupation.

Lesiure

The hotel offers an exquisite pool and garden. A full range of spa and hotel treatments are available at BALQUISSE's on-site Henna Spa or in the privacy of The Shaba function house.

Verdict An exquisitely decorated, comfortable and romantic botique hotel.

Rooms 8 deluxe rooms 3 superior rooms 2 junior suites 1 family bungalow 1 master suite Prices Ranging from US$162 ($192 high season) for superior rooms to $276 ($324 high season) for the master suite.

Nearby 20 minutes from the airport 15-minute walk to Jimbaran 20 minutes to Uluwatu 20 minutes to Dreamland Beach 30 minutes to Seminyak essentials✓ Airport transfer ✓ Baby-sitting ✓ Restaurant ✓ Free Wi-fi ✓ Pool Contact Balquisse Heritage Hotel Jl. Uluwatu 1x Jimbaran, Bali Telp +62361701695 Fax +62361703087 balquisse.com

JPlus

January 17, 2016

Photos bcourtesy balquisse

The set-up

9

wanderLust

in search of enlightenment in east java WORDS Duncan Graham

Keeping

spirits alive

Photos by Erlinawati Graham and Yudi Sukardiyanto

the

10

JPlus January 17, 2016

Photos by Erlinawati Graham and Yudi Sukardiyanto

S

he looked comfortably well-off, the type often labelled an ibu-ibu.

Soberly dressed in muted colors and a full headscarf, she seemed a model of Malaysian propriety.

An hour earlier she’d been bareshouldered in a clinging batik shift floating face down in a spring-fed pool. Long fish darted past her broad hips. The blue jilbab unwound as her hair swirled among the pink petals cast on the surface.

On a stone shelf in the blackness behind, a younger local woman sat cross-legged in front of produce from the world’s most fecund island. Before the bathing she’d meditated in total darkness.

As the Malaysian entered the water the Indonesian sang in kromo, the ancient high-caste language of Java, with a backing chorus of frogcroak.

Bats zipped across the benign face of a pregnant yellow moon. Blink and they’d gone. A black cat rubbed legs wasting its contrived affection: No meat among the offerings.

Had it prowled past a Western wedding, marital harmony would have followed.

For sure. Omens and superstition are not exclusively Javanese.

Cattle lowed in mangers distant. The limp breeze flicked the two candles’ flames, though too weak to shift smoke from incense sticks and kretek cigarettes.

A mosquitoes’ nirvana–but the evil ones stayed away.

For worrying long moments, it seemed the lady in the water had perished and gone to another world. Her body was corpse-still, the water unruffled. Slowly she drifted to the side, touched the stones and came to life. Reluctantly she stepped out helped by ritual leader Nono Setyonggodo.

On the pool walls, reliefs of the Tantri Tales, a Javanese version of the Thousand

wanderLust

and One Nights fable. Also a date from the Saka Calendar: 1337. This placid place was built, or consecrated, in what we now call 1415.

So 600 years ago women were bathing here though minus headscarves, for Islam had yet to reach every crevasse of the island.

In the East Java temple complex of Panataran (sometimes spelled Penataran), the faith was Hindu. Imported from India it inspired priests and architects, artists and craftsmen to build a splendid array of monuments on the southwest slope of Mount Kelud, ten kilometers from the city of Blitar.

They took about 250 years to do the job. Later they fled east to Bali, when the dynasty collapsed through family feuds and the advance of Islam. The remains were rediscovered in 1815 by Sir Stamford Raffles, the British governor of Java, and partially reconstructed last century.

Panataran, once known as Palah, was a State temple dedicated to the supreme god Siva. It may have been the favorite sanctuary of Hayam Wuruk, the fourth monarch of the Majapahit Empire.

Although the largest Hindu complex in East Java, Panataran is dwarfed by the 9th century Prambanan temple near Yogyakarta.

We have the floating 48-year-old lady’s name card, but she’ll remain anonymous lest her relatives, friends and the religious authorities in Selangor discover her escapades in East Java.

“I couldn’t do this in Malaysia,” she said of her purification ritual. “Of course, people look for spiritual enlightenment, but you have to be careful in my country. I feel so calm and refreshed. Here there seem to be no problems. Indonesia is so much more relaxed with religion.”

Indeed. There was nothing furtive about this second of three ceremonies held during October and November, Sura in the Javanese calendar. Up to 50 people gathered to watch or participate around the rectangular pool.

The rite went on till early the next day, ending when the food had been consumed.

Panataran’s caretakers work around the clock to prevent pilfering and damage to the site on UNESCO’s World Heritage Tentative List. They knew what was underway and stayed indifferent; likewise the courting

couples giggling in the gloom, keener to explore anatomy than archaeology.

Participants brought large trays of food and drink, incongruously including a bottle of Johnnie Walker to the ceremony. This got underway as the lunar light increased.

Birth dates were and translated into the Javanese calendar and scrutinized. After eight women had submerged and departed to dry in the shadows, more than 20 men followed in batches of five.

“The water was cold, but felt pure” said Made Polak, 58, chairman of a Malangbased NGO after his immersion. “Just before I entered the pool I felt three electric shocks on my back.

“I was told that a big fish swam over my shoulder when I was in the water. What

does it mean? I don’t know! Perhaps my ancestor was a fish.

“We are trying to link the macrocosm and microcosm, to get closer to nature and resolve conflict.

“I’m one of only two Hindus here. The others are Muslims and Catholics. This ritual is Javanese, but it contains elements of other faiths. What does it matter? We are all human and God is unlimited.”

Some men had TRI LOKO and Indonesian sentences stencilled on their shirts, a reference to the differently spelt Hindu concept of Tri Loka – the physical world, that of the ancestors and the world of the gods.

The Indonesian words translate as: “Three different realms are fused into one

unified whole.”

Nono Setyonggodo, 58, didn’t seem hung up about his responsibilities, often retreating for a chat and a filter tip. How to describe him? He rejected “seer” and “sage” but settled for sesepuh. This translates as “elder” which seems inadequate.

“This is Java’s traditional belief,” he said.

“Some call it kebatinan. [The government has resisted attempts to accept kebatinan as an approved faith and classifies it as a cultural practice.]

“This ceremony is a ruwatan. Participants are seeking peace within and a resolution of problems. If unsuccessful I tell them they’re not ready yet.

“There are other Majapahit Era pools in places like Trawas and Singosari. We use Panataran because there are no distractions; it’s central for our followers. We have about a thousand.

“The food represents everything natural.

We used to use tuak [fermented palm wine] but we are modern so include whisky.

“We don’t have trouble because people know this is a Javanese mystical tradition.

We are conserving our culture.”

The following morning schoolchildren swarmed over Panataran’s temples on an educational excursion, filling their notebooks with dates.

Had they explored beyond their teachers’ instructions and peered closely at some carvings they’d have enjoyed an illustrated lesson in the contortions of human reproduction.

No sign of the previous night’s event.

Not a petal, not a grain of rice, not a flake of incense ash. Nothing. All gone, like the people who created this magic place. The ceremony could have been staged hours–or centuries–ago.

Historical information on Panataran gleaned from published research by Lydia Kieven and Ann Kinney.

JPlus

January 17, 2016 11

at your Leisure

Down Mexico Way Picante offers good casual Mexican food in the heart of the city WORDS & PHOTOS Kevindra P. Soemantri

I

love the surprise of dining in a restaurant located in an office building–and the contradictions of seeking a relaxing meal amid the executives in suits and dresses rushing to their meetings.

Tucked away in the CIMB Niaga Building, Picante Mexican Restaurant has been serving up casual food for the last eight months.

I remembered what the great Mexican chef Margarita Carrillo Arronte once said about her homeland’s cooking.

“You know, it is really, really outstanding the way this food, this cuisine, has survived through the centuries,” the author of the delightful Mexico: The Cookbook, said in an interview with NPR. “Of course, it evolves, but you can eat the same tortilla that Moctezuma ate 500 years ago.”

While my expectations were high, things got off on the wrong foot when I saw that the entrance of Picante was located opposite a public restroom, with its front door wide open.

As I entered though, the restaurant surprised me, with an outdoor garden, full of office workers taking a break from

12

JPlus January 17, 2016

deadlines, sitting at ease alongside the garden’s concrete border.

Picante is open and spacious for a casual Mexican restaurant, with stained glass windows affording a view of the garden. Unluckily, though, everyone who sat outside was smoking.

I ordered burritos with barbacoa (smokey barbecued) beef, which was more like a pulled shredded beef, served with fragrant rice.

The burritos were good.

The rice was fragrant, as promised. While the black beans were a bit under seasoned, the barbacoa bound everything together, including the flavorful tortilla.

As I ate, I looked at the restaurant’s casual and down-to-earth design and wished I had visited on a less sunny day: It was too hot, due to the windows.

I even changed my table to be nearer the annoyingly-wideopened main door so I could get some cool air from the office building.

A canopy or curtains would have allowed the heat I felt to come principally from the restaurant’s salsa roja.

For the salsa roja, Picante uses local bird’s-eye chilies as a substitute for the expensive imported Mexican versions.

To cool my tastebuds, I asked for a classic churros, which was huge–crispy on the outside, soft and tender inside. The flavor was a balance between a sweet/slightly savory dough, cinnamon sugar and chocolate sauce.

It reminded me of some of the best churros I’ve eaten –not in Spain, not in Mexico, but in Singapore, at

the World Street Food Congress, where a cook from Churros Locos in Oregon, the US, served the dish done to perfection.

This might seem strange, but Picante serves a pavlova as dessert–piquing my interest as to how such an elegant dish of meringue cake topped with fruit and cream could be served against a much bolder Mexican menu.

The pavlova was executed serviceably, with a meringue that was slightly dry although edible. They also used a cream cheese frosting over the top with berry jam and fresh berries, offering a clean way to end your meal.

As Arronte reminds us in another interview, chefs with white tablecloth restaurants are “discovering” the Mexican tradition. While having some way to go, Picante is already on the right track.

Picante Mexican Grill Jakarta Graha CIMB Niaga (next to Plaza Bapindo) Jl. Jend. Sudirman Ph: +6221 2505559

looking Good

The Right Face A FEW OF OUR FAVORITE FOUNDATIONS WORDS Fedina S. Sundaryani

A

flawless complexion is essential for any makeup look. More often than not, that means using foundation–and the right foundation, at that. Here are a few of our favorite picks, which we sampled thanks to our friends at Galeries Lafayette at Pacific Place, along with our write-ups, so that you can remain comfortable and confident about the skin you’re in.

Lancome Teint Visionnaire Hold your horses. When the Lancome says it means business, it really does. This product is a liquid foundation and concealer, touted as the Precision Spot Corrector, so that there’s no need to find separate products in matching shades — handy, right? The oil-free formula means that it won’t clog your pores and the concealer is infused with Vitamin CG, which Lancome claims will instantly erase the appearance of imperfections. The foundation stays put all day on your face, though a little oil does like to break through on hot days, especially for those with oily skin, but it’s nothing a little blotting paper can’t fix.

Anna Sui Liquid Foundation Touted as an all-in-one product for your skin woes, the Anna Sui Liquid Foundation is a sheer-to-medium foundation that can easily be applied with a sponge, a brush or even your fingers, resulting in a matte satin finish. Although oily-skinned beauty lovers may shy away from this formula, a light dusting can easily ensure no chance of transfer or oxidation. However, it has a heavy rose scent, so the sensitive-skinned may want to avoid this one.

Don’t the French always do it better? The Guerlain Orchidée Impériale Cream Foundation is wrapped in a sleek, round tub which might make you want to scoop out all of the product and slather it all over your face because it is thick and creamy but so light on the face. Coverage is medium to full, but it magically still lets your real skin peek through so that your skin looks even but not fake. This decadent foundation has SPF25 and also lasts eight hours with minimal touch up.

Yves Saint Laurent Fusion Ink Foundation Jakarta can be hard on your skin, but a bottle of the Yves Saint Laurent Fusion Ink Foundation might be the answer to all your prayers with its matte finish and 24-hour lasting power.

The full coverage foundation is an extremely liquid formula that actually applies better with fingers, as your body heat warms it so that it is one with your skin. Dry-skinned gals can enjoy this foundation too, just make sure you moisturize well before applying.

OK, I know some of you may be wary of using a stick foundation on a daily basis in a city as humid as Jakarta, but the Bobbi Brown Foundation Stick will change your life. Just swipe this one all over your face and blend with your fingers, a sponge or a brush for instant skin perfection. Emollients like olive extracts and shea butter will definitely keep your skin looking good. What’s also good about this? The handy stick form makes it easier to lug around and the waxy–in a good way–formulation means that it doubles up as a concealer, useful when you suddenly get a huge pimple in the middle of the day.

JPlus

Photos courtesy of brands

Guerlain Orchidée Impériale Cream Foundation

Bobbi Brown Foundation Stick

January 17, 2016 13

good Living

8 Fashion Brands You Didn’t Know Have Home Lines, Too

HOW DOES CALVIN KLEIN BED LINEN OR A FENDI UPHOLSTERED SOFA SET SOUND TO YOU? WORDS Randz Manucom, Philippine Inquirer (ANN)

O

Armani/Casa Armani ventured into full-blown hotels entirely furnished with their own fixture and furnishings. In Manila, the brand has collaborated with a property giant for a branded luxury residence. Yup, expect an Armani/Casa Interior Design Studio-filled residential condominium soon enough!

ur favorite fashion designer brands have looked beyond our sartorial needs. Some, and this we may not be made aware of, have brand extensions venturing into homeware, furniture, and decor. Even local brands are in on it, as well. For the more high-end brands, this is called an overall luxury lifestyle—where the concept of chic is not just in wearing their clothes but also in living out their brand in other aspects, too–say, a line for the home.

So how does Calvin Klein bed linen or a Fendi upholstered sofa set sound to you? The biggest brands in fashion are slowly putting their labels on your furniture. And guess what? We’re still buying!

Here are eight designer brands that have made a living out of creating home lines, too.

Fendi Casa This is when things become super luxe. One of the first few labels to enter the homeware territory is Fendi. Its concept is to "dress up" rooms in a similar way [they] "dress up"’ its fashion clients. This is why its home line often features fox, mink, and sheepskin material with the iconic double-F logo. The market might be open to a home line real soon.

Hermès La Maison Famous for their ceramics line and leather furniture, Hermès has also expanded to wallpapers and textiles. Think of something as special as an Hermès printed scarf only to be translated to pieces for the home like china.

Ralph Lauren Home This all-American preppy brand releases a thematic collection every season. But one thing’s for sure: They design for today’s urban crowd with varied suggestions for city apartments. Say, this Penthouse Suite collection or Downtown Modern line.

Kate Spade New York Home Collection The feminine quirk of the Kate Spade’s aesthetic is translated directly into her home line. They go for candy-colored sofa sets and tables with matching lighting fixtures as well. So the Kate Spade girl gets to enjoy functional pieces that are just as pretty as her clothes.

Bottega Veneta Home Collection Bottega Veneta creative director Tomas Maier said, “When you come into a room, the personality of the people who live there should come through.” Bottega’s first home collection is closely related to its clothing line, made with the same leather craftsmanship as their bags and clothes. We’re talking about the same signature intrecciato leather technique incorporated in their home accessories, too.

14

JPlus January 17, 2016

Photos courtesy of brands

Loewe Home Loewe looks into technology and ventures into making actual television sets. Yes, more than just furniture design for chairs and cabinets. They have an entertainment line, which includes speaker systems, DVD players and plasma TVs.

Tory Burch Home The Tory Burch Home line is a more personal collection inspired by memories and moments from her own home. There are gold-plated picture frames, needlepoint pillows, and candles with prints similar to her ready-towear clothing line.

Matching dress and candles, yes!

tasteBUD

Eat your Veggies Some no-excuse simple recipes for eating well Words & photos Theodora Hurustiati

H

ow often do you eat your veggies?

Noshing on the piece of lettuce and two slices of cucumber on the corner of your plate at the restaurants doesn’t count! That’s only the garnish. Eating it is gauche–and the amount is far short of the 400 grams of fruits or vegetables that experts recommend you get each day.

I understand that making vegetable dishes can be labor intensive. The idea of having to wash, peel, chop and cook makes them even less appealing.

I came up with a solution to this problem by buying vegetables bulk every week, usually on my day off. I wash and portion some to be eaten as salad and store directly in the chiller. During the week, I just take them out and pour on the dressing. I also prepare cooked vegetable dishes, dividing them into several boxes. I freeze some for rainy days and store the rest. Over the following weeks, I reheat the dishes, without worrying about peeling and chopping. Here are two of my frequent favorites, made using mushrooms and green beans.

Funghi trifolati (sautéed mushrooms)

Trifolare is an Italian cooking method involvingh oil, garlic and parsley. Mushrooms and zucchini are popular vegetables to be prepared this way, although carrots, eggplants and artichokes are also common. Add a touch of cream to these sauteed mushrooms to transform the dish into a hearty pasta sauce.

Green beans with honey mustard vinaigrette Serves 5-6 By keeping seasonings simple, we allow the flavor of the vegetables to speak for itself, as in this easy green bean recipe. Vinaigrette is the French term for the dressing made with vinegar. You may not need all of it, so use the leftover to season some salad.

500g green beans 10g pecans or walnuts, chopped Balsamic vinaigrette 2 teaspoons mustard 20-30g honey 30g extra virgin olive oil 20g Italian balsamic vinegar Black pepper, to taste 1 level teaspoon salt

• Blanch green beans in salted boiling water, for 10-15 minutes, until soft but still slightly crunchy.

• Drain with colander and wash under cold running water or, better yet, soak in icy water to cool instantly. This will stop the cooking process and preserve their bright color. Tap dry.

• Prepare vinaigrette by inserting all the ingredients in a glass jar. Cover with lid and shake well until it emulsifies.

• Dress green beans and include nuts.

• Serve cold or at room temperature with poultry or fish.

Serves 3-4

500g champignon mushrooms 1 clove of garlic, chopped 1 shallot, chopped 1 teaspoon cornstarch 5g parsley, chopped Extra virgin olive oil White pepper, ground Salt

• Clean mushrooms of dirt, if any, with a delicate brush. Wash briefly under running water only if you have to, since their spongy texture absorbs liquid easily. Cut into halves or quarters, depending on their size.

• Sweat shallots and garlic with a touch of oil over low heat until soft and fragrant. Add mushrooms.

Season with salt and pepper.

• Increase heat to medium and saute mushrooms for 8-10 minutes until cooked. They usually shrink and release liquid.

• Mix cornstarch with about 3 tablespoons of cold water and pour over mushrooms. Include parsley and saute for a further couple of minutes until the liquid transforms into a translucent sauce. Add a touch of water if it seems too thick.

• Serve hot with poultry, veal or beef.

Jakarta-born chef Theodora Hurustiati, a 13-year resident of Udine, Italy, was the runner-up in the TV cooking program La Scuola – Cucina di Classe (The School: Classy Cooking).

JPlus

January 17, 2016 15

trend DIAL Apple’s CNY Apple Watch

Good news for fashion fans and IT nerds: Apple has just unveiled a limited edition Chinese New Year (CNY) Apple Watch sport model, available in 38mm and 42mm. It bears a beautiful gold aluminum or silver aluminum case, paired with a flashy red Sport Band, something that’s not an option for other Apple Watches. The limited edition also comes with a gold aluminum pin instead of the regular silver one. The gold-and-red combination means good fortune in the Chinese tradition. It is available only in China, Hong Kong, Malaysia, Singapore and Taiwan from Jan. 15 to Feb. 22.

Dolce & Gabbana’s hijab and abaya collection Exciting news for Muslim fashionistas: Dolce & Gabbana has just launched a collection of hijabs and abayas catering to demand from customers in the Middle East. The modest garments still bear all the flair of any other item from the brand: A little jewel-encrusted lemon here, some black lace trim there, styled alongside the label’s cocktail jewelry, sunglasses and patterned bags.

THREE IN

ONE

Where fashion, spirituality and tech intersect

Men’s Boots by Alexander McQueen

Mary Katrantzou goes Interstellar

Science-fiction lovers will be intrigued: Mary Katrantzou’s pre-fall collection is rich with references to classic 1960s books, such as Philip K. Dick’s dystopian alternate history The Man in the High Castle. Among the collection’s more complex pieces are a pink leather V-neck shift that is laser cut, with rows of diamonds that are folded like origami to reveal a metallic silver underside and fastened together with a tiny coil bead.

Her greatest skill might be in translating showpieces into commercially viable products.

16

JPlus January 17, 2016

Alexander McQueen designer Sarah Burton has just released a series of boots for men; all handpainted. The footwear looks smart: Lace-up derbies were done in smooth black leather and pebbled burgundy, with an ultra-rounded toe offering some needed flourish. The standout style, however, comes in a boot silhouette, with the same water-themed floral print seen in the clothes that Burton designs. +Sebastian Partogi

Ritz-Carlton Jakarta balances Yin and Yang

The Ritz-Carlton Spa at the The Ritz-Carlton Jakarta, Mega Kuningan hotel is ready to help you achieve that perfect combination of yin (nourishing, cooling and relaxing) and yang (energizing, warming and stimulating) energy.

The ritual, created in collaboration with Pevonia Botanica, comprises tangerine and lavender aromatherapy as well as skin purification for the yin, while the yang therapy comprises an energy recharge through a smooth energy flow, which boosts blood flow, as well as a deep, relaxing massage. The treatment results in soothing and rejuvenating feelings, as well as offering you a chance to de-stress and detoxify.