Jplus 2016 01 24 lores

Vol. 3 No. 10 I January 24 - 30 , 2016

Lost In LAMPUNG ESCAPE ACROSS THE SUNDA STRAIT

thinking in pictures EMTE’S SKETCHBOOK

WOMEN AND CREATIVITY A TABLE OF FRIENDS REPORT

TASTEBUD SOTO AYAM REDUX

Editor's note

Check List

on the road When compiling our cover story on Lampung for this week, I remembered what Ibn Battuta reportedly said about traveling: It leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller.

Willy Wilson, our erstwhile reporter and editor for JPlus, left Jakarta several months back and returned to his hometown of Bandar Lampung on the other side of the Sunda Strait.

We’re thrilled that he’s written about Lampung (Cover Story, p6-10) –and that he’s put together a Bandar Lampung Confidential column (p11), with illustrations by The Jakarta Post’s art director, Budhi Hartono.

Speaking of illustrations, we’ve also got

send us a Tweet by Jan. 28 telling us where our monthly ArtPLUS section this week, you’d like to eat on your Bali vacation. featuring Sebastian Partogi’s interview Make sure you use the tag with one of my favorites, the #JPlusGiveaway. illustrator known A winner will be chosen at as Emte (p12). random from posted messages If you’re and announced here next interested in going week. east, not west, Looking ahead, our cover there’s another travel issue for February will travel opportunity: focus on Toulouse and a few We’re giving away other small towns in France. a free one night stay Enjoy the weekend! at the EDEN Hotel We're giving away one free night Kuta Bali, managed at the EDEN Hotel Kuta Bali!

by Tauzia.

Chris Razukas Here’s how to win: jplus@thejakartapost.com Follow our Twitter at @SundayJPlus and

mark my words

PrIMP the MEN UP BEAUTIFUL LOOKING MEN ARE BACK Words Avi Basuki

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in the spirit An artisanal "gin-assance"

ARTPLUS The illustrious Emte

JPlus Team Editor Christian Razukas Art Director Budhi Hartono Graphic Designer Hengky Wijaya Marketing & Advertising Sales & Marketing Director Ady P. Pamungkas

ady.pamungkas@thejakartapost.com

Marketing Executive Faisal Ahmad

After the sarinah incident on Jan. 14, one surprise emerged on the list of trending topics on social media in Indonesia: Some of those responding police officers were totally hot.

Twitter and Instagram were overloaded with hashtags and comments on how cool the dudes were. (Something similar happened in New York City after 9/11, by the way).

I guess it’s natural: Women love looking at men–good looking men, to be precise. Not too good looking or too fashionable, mind you–and not too metrosexual or hipster. But men with style.

So what is style, exactly? Roberto Mararo, one of the most sought-after Italian designers, summed it up in an interview.

“I want all men know how to wear beautiful suits and how to be dressed well and properly,” Mararo, loved by the streetstyle press and followed online by around 180,000 people, said. “To understand this, obviously one should look back into the past.

Most of the big brands are doing fashion and not style. Fashion has a short life, while style is eternal."

Mararo’s style is definitely not catwalk. It’s real-life respectable (and not cheap) suits, clothes, shoes and accessories that a man might wear every day–or might keep for the rest of his life, with each piece earmarked for a specific occasion.

Well, of course, wearing a suit in a humid

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Asian country is probably not advisable. But men can take some advice from the #polgan (polisi ganteng, or handsome police), and wear khaki trousers and a black polo shirt and keep their hair and faces well-groomed.

Keeping in shape, or at least keeping off those extra kilograms, helps, as well.

Although one of those polgan might have been wearing Gucci sneakers, was it “fashion” that made him stand out or was it style? Or maybe it was just a good uniform choice that made the look elegant.

What are the things that make a man “stylish”? In the recently concluded series Mad Men, most of male characters were well groomed.

The show was a source of inspiration for men, who longed for the days when the barbershop was a unique men-only place, where they could get pampered and revamped while still feeling manly.

In Italy, in some of the retro barbershops, they still give you a small pin-up girl calendar to you as a gift, together with a warm towel.

Manly indeed. These calendars are a limited edition made by Bullfrog and are given out at Romano Brida, one of the most hip barber shops in Milan, specializing in traditional styles.

Whether you are a hipster, metrosexual, gay or just an ordinary man longing for style, Romano Brida can help bring your inner Cary Grant to the surface.

A few friends of mine left their beloved

hairdressers, quietly betraying them for new relationships with Bullfrog barbers.

“I feel like a ‘real’ man again going to the barber, just like the first time my dad brought me to his,” one friend said.

After a session at Bullfrog, my friends did look neat, and most of all, confident–one of the quintessential elements of style.

The lucky few who can splurge can even pimp their rides with a style that suits their personality, from rock-and-roll SUVs, camouflage yachts to hound’s-tooth patterned Mini Coopers.

Lapo Elkann, who refinishes Mini Coopers, definitely has style. While a bit too pompous for my taste, he’s still a feast to look at. A stylish man with a stylish car: Who would mind?

So what makes a man stylish? Mararo also said: “A man should be elegant, presentable and clean–without any exaggeration.” No wonder #polgan was a big success. He didn’t even have to bring a car with him, although keep in mind his heroic gesture.

I wonder if 20 years from now, the hipsters of today will look like those bad-haircut boys from the 1980s, while Frank Sinatra will still look cool 100 years from now.

So yes, dear men, we do miss you being primped up, but please not too much, or too little. Just the right amount.

Mark My Words shifts focus between food, fashion, parenting and travel each week.

faisal@thejakartapost.com

@JPlusSunday jplussunday

SundayJplus jakplus.com

On the cover

The view from one of the peaks in South Bukit Barisan National Park in Lampung.

The park and its mountain range extends into the provinces of South Sumatra and Bengkulu.

Photographer: Fendi Aspara under a Creative Commons license (BY- NC)

talk of the town JOKO ANWAR GIVES SCREENPLAY CLASS AT GIK

SamKim Skincare & Cosmetics Launch Fairmont Jakarta; Senayan, Central Jakarta

Grand Indonesia West Mall, Central Jakarta

Galeri Indonesia Kaya (GIK) recently hosted an educational workshop aimed at the general public, and especially at fine arts enthusiasts out there, about how movies get made.

The speaker at this Jan. 16 event was the acclaimed writer-director Joko Anwar, who gave members of the audience insights into how he writes his screenplays.

“Making movies isn’t as difficult as it seems, as long as you know the precise method of processing your creative ideas,” Joko said.

GIK expressed hopes that the workshop would inspire and embolden members of the young generation to turn their ideas into high-quality films.

Skin needs vitamin C–that’s common knowledge. What most people don’t know is our body doesn’t produce or restore Vitamin C, which is very sensitive to light, water and air.

SamKim Skincare & Cosmetics offers a solution to this. The founder, Sam Kim, M.D., Ph.D, has patented a technology called the V-Sam C Capsule, a "double-coated" vitamin C, used as the main ingredient for all of the brand’s products.

Kim, who was on hand for the Jakarta launch, said that the products were all natural and usable by anyone, regardless of their skin type.

CELEBRITY FITNESS OPENS IN YoGYA

Boko Temple, Yogyakarta Celebrity Fitness has just celebrated the opening of its first club in Yogyakarta by conducting a two-day event.

On Jan. 15, visitors were invited to a 90-minute sunset yoga session featuring actress Natasha Ratulangi at Boko Temple.

The following day, visitors watched a cucuk lampah, a traditional Javanese dance usually performed as part of housewarming or dedication ceremonies, after a ribbon-cutting session. The event was closed by the cutting of a celebratory yellow tumpeng rice cone and was attended by royal prince Nicco Haryo Wiranegaran.

“We are very honored with the prince’s support,” Celebrity Fitness president Tony Pickering said.

Jay Subyakto and Inet Leimena go behind the scenes Grand Indonesia West Mall, Central Jakarta

JW Marriott launch One Stop Wedding Package JW Marriott Jakarta, Mega-Kuningan

Visitors at Galeri Indonesia Kaya (GIK) were also able to enjoy unique insights into the workings of stage performances during a workshop that featured Jay Subyakto and Inet Leimena sharing their experiences in the world of theater.

The event, held on Jan. 17, saw the two speakers sharing details on how they prepared their various shows.

Among the subjects they covered were two of the most notable recent performances promoting Indonesian culture–Ariah, which was the brainchild of Atilah Soeryadjaya, the subject of last week’s JPlus cover story, and Matah Ati. “During this workshop, we want art enthusiasts to create fresh ideas as to how to arrange an art performance,” Jay said.

Jay is a music video director and painter, producer and photographer, while Inet is a show director. The pair previously collaborated on Ariah in 2013.

It’s almost Valentine’s Day and love is in the air. As thoughts turn to romance, the JW Marriott Jakarta announced its Timeless Romance One Stop Wedding Package on Jan. 20, assembling experts such as event organizer Denny Hartanto, Dion Riyadi from Le Novelle Cake and designer Fetty Rusli, to discuss everything from planning nuptials in Papua to trends in edible design elements for cakes.

Thirty-six carefully curated vendors are slated to attend the Timeless Romance event, which runs from January 30 to 31 at the hotel’s Dua Mutiara Ballroom and which is open to the public.

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January 24, 2016

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table of FRIENDS

seeking digital

inspiration At a recent talk on women and the creative economy, entrepreneurs exchanged ideas, support and inspiration Words Sebastian Partogi Photos Arief Suhardiman

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s we said last week in this column (see opposite), Table of Friends has been planning a high-tea gathering titled “Women and Creativity: Entering the Digital Economy Era”.

The Table convened on Jan. 15 at the Gran Mahakam Hotel, gathering women entrepreneurs for a talk show and networking session–as well as to enjoy performances from up-and-coming singer Andrea Miranda (the daughter of musician Purwatjaraka) and a ballet dance presented by the Namarina dance troupe.

The Table was opened by a keynote speech by Creative Economy Agency chairman Triawan Munaf and followed by panel discussions moderated by psychologist Ratih Ibrahim.

Discussions were divided into two parts.

The first focused on the business aspects of the creative economy, featuring Creative Center Indonesia founder Uti Rahardjo, ActionCOACH firm owner Cynthia Wihardja and Bubu.com chief executive officer (CEO) Shinta W. Dhanuwardoyo (a former JPlus cover star).

Uti told the Table that a flourishing local creative industry was the logical outcome of rapid advances in information technology, which required people to incorporate more ideas and concepts within their products.

The second talk featured Lea Aziz, the principal of Elenbee Design and the chairwoman of the Indonesian Society of Interior Designers; food writer and chef Petty Elliott; and Batik Chic founder and CEO Novita Yunus.

According to Triawan, gatherings like the Table of Friends are important, since networking entrepreneurs, government agencies and scholars is vital to the development of the creative economy.

Triawan added that women and men had equal chances to capitalize on the thriving situation.

“Creativity has nothing to do with being male or female– it depends on an individual’s internal motivation. Creativity

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belongs to everyone who is able to translate ideas into concrete products and services,” Triawan said.

“In order to be creative, you have to have ‘divergent thinking ability’, namely the skills to weave ideas and see connections that are invisible to others.”

He added that creative people liked to solve problems and were not afraid to make–and learn from–mistakes.

Uti said that creative industry covered everything related to ideas, knowledge and skills. However, women who want to succeed need to find a market niche while developing their business at the same time, she added.

According to Cynthia Wihardjo, doing business properly means knowing how to make money.

“You have to know when your business leads to return of investment. You have to calculate the number of demands you generate from an advertisement placement,” Cynthia said. “You also need to create a product demanded by the public, not just the ones that suit your personal taste.”

Meanwhile, Lea said that entrepreneurs needed to create their own opportunities and trends.

“When I returned to Indonesia after studying in the United States in the 1980s, interior design was not popular yet. A lot of people also misunderstood it,” Lea said.

“I took this as a challenge: How to make things hip by creating designs that were in line with the behaviors of people inside a particular building?”

As an example, Lea said that before she would start designing the interior of a hospital, she would observe and understand, maybe realizing that people who are treated do not want their sickness to be exposed to others. Then she would create an interior design that accommodates that.

According to Cynthia, poor planning often led to the demise of an enterprise within five years. “The only product you have is your business. Take McDonald’s as an example. Their business isn’t food, not

even franchises. Their business is property.”

She encouraged women to know when to sell their businesses and when to buy franchise so they do not have to start a business from scratch.

Meanwhile, Shinta encouraged women to capitalize on digital platforms to make their businesses more efficient: Technology helps you to sell your products without even having to leave your house or setting up a store.

The digital platform is definitely important for creative economy: It helped one of the discussants to become an “accidental” fashion designer.

A few years ago, Novita Yunus left her job at a private bank after 13 years, planning

to set up her own consultancy.

All the while, she loved bags and creating designs. One day she made a bag for herself and uploaded a photo of it to Facebook.

Many liked it and asked her to make bags for them.

Novita said that she soon realized she was making more money making and selling bags than she was earning at the bank.

She shelved plans to become a banking consultant, launching Batik Chic instead in April 2010. Now the store has two galleries in Jakarta and Surabaya, East Java, as well as six outlets across Jakarta and Bali.

It also cooperates with Oriflame to collaborate with six small-and-medium enterprises in Jakarta, Bandung, West Java, and Tanggulangin in Surabaya to produce 25,000 bags per month.

The next Table of Friends event will be announced in an upcoming issue of JPlus.

in the spirit

A New Breed of Gins Are Dark, Bracing If you’re sticking with your usual Tanqueray & tonic—you’re missing out.

Words Kara Newman, bloomberg

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Photos via bloomberg, courtesy of brands

t might seem a little crazy to separate the spirit from crisp tennis whites and clean summer sipping, from G&Ts and Pimm’s Cups and other bright and light cocktails, but a new crop of gins is featuring deeper, warmer flavors. Some even hold up neat. Could “Ginuary” become a thing?

Keli Rivers, ginnoisseur (yeah, that’s really her title) at newly opened San Francisco gin palace Whitechapel, thinks so. She describes a winterready gin as one that’s “heartier, deeper, or rootier,” perhaps featuring woodsy notes or holiday-like baking spice. By comparison, summery gins showcase “brighter, softer flavors.”

Super-Quick Gin Primer Like vodka, gin can be made from anything (hello, honey gin), can be made anywhere, and can be flavored with any number of herbs, spices, or other “botanicals.” The one nonnegotiable: Gin is flavored with juniper berries, which imparts that fresh, almost piney characteristic.

Beyond that, it’s open—and craft distillers love making it. (Just a few years ago, options were considerably fewer, certainly not enough to fill out the shelves of Whitechapel, which boasts more than 400 bottlings.)

Compared with such spirits as whiskey, which can take years to age, gin can be distilled, bottled, and on the shelves relatively quickly. And unlike with uber-neutral vodka, all those herbs, spices, fruits, and other flavorings bundled under “botanicals” are like a Crayola box full of bright hues to play with.

“It gives a lot of room for creativity and expression,” explains Emily Vikre, co-founder of Minnesota’s Vikre Distillery.

Experimentation, Expression To achieve more robust notes, some gins are barrelaged (a spirit-spanning trend that seems to show no signs of stopping), yielding a pour that strikes a balance

botanicals growing around her in the sprawling Northwoods region near Lake Superior, including Christmas-y Spruce and robust Cedar variations.

between the herby freshness typically associated with the clear spirit and the caramel-vanilla notes of whiskey—a “sipping gin,” if you will.

Others are sweetened, in the style of sloe gin or liqueurs, or show a heavier hand on warming, wintry botanicals, ranging from cocoa-like matcha (green tea) to cinnamon and cardamom spice.

This experimentation has helped to expand the definition of what gin can be—and when it can be drunk.

For cold-weather quaffing, it helps that even the classic London Dry-style gins—your Tanquerays and Beefeaters and Bombay Sapphires—noted for showcasing fresh, pinelike juniper, lend themselves to it.

“Even though we associate traditional dry gin with summer because it is bright and fresh,” says Vikre, “winter is all about pine trees and citrus. It has those flavors already.”

But that hasn’t stopped Vikre from finding year-round gin-spiration from trees and other

Preserving the Seasons Just as farm-to-table-focused chefs can emphasize what’s in season, “distillers are now able to think in those terms, too,” Whitechapel’s Rivers says. “They can emphasize flavors that people are experiencing as the seasons turn,” whether that means distilling flower buds for spring gin or hearty roots and barks in winter and preserving them for us all year round.

St. George Spirits in Alameda, in the US, for example, has a trio of gins, including the forest-like Terroir, made with Douglas fir, bay laurel, and coastal sage, all botanicals from its home region.

Others are taking it a step further and experimenting with letting gin rest a spell in barrels that previously held wine or whiskey, such as amber-hued Waterloo Antique Gin from Austin (aged in former whiskey barrels) or Booth’s “Cask Mellowed” London Dry bottling (finished in sherry casks).

Yet, a challenge remains: how to drink these more robust gins?

“Some of the aged gins disappear in cocktails,” Rivers admits, while flavored gins (such as sloe gin) can overpower traditional cocktail templates. Of course, you can always be a maverick and sip it straight.

A bespoke gin for raffles jakarta To mark the 100th anniversary of the Singapore Sling, Raffles Jakarta has been offering a new bespoke spirit, Raffles 1915 Gin, a collaboration of Raffles Hotels & Resorts and the gin renaissance pioneer, Sipsmith.

Raffles 1915 Gin was created by Sipsmith master distiller Jared Brown and handcrafted at the Sipsmith Distillery in London. It contains botanicals

such as jasmine flowers, fresh pomelo peel, lemongrass, kaffir lime leaf, nutmeg and cardamom.

The collaboration is rooted in history and serendipity, as Sipsmith co-founder Sam Galsworthy is the great, great, great nephew of Sir Stamford Raffles, founder of Singapore and for who the Raffles flagship hotel in the Lion City was named after.

“Raffles 1915 Gin is a stunningly smooth and inspiring spiced gin that evokes that moment when someone would have sipped their first Singapore Sling in the Long Bar in 1915,” Galsworthy said in a statement. "It is something which undoubtedly would make Ngiam Tong Boon, creator of the Singapore Sling, and my great, great, great uncle, Sir Stamford Raffles, very proud.” +JPlus staff

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January 24, 2016

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cover Story

An Insider’s Guide to

Lampung

Where to eat, sleep and suntan in Lampung’s surprisingly diverse capital – and some tips for side trips

Photos willy wilson

Words Willy Wilson

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cover Story

Photos willy wilson (sidebar), haryo bintoro (main)

sidetrip No. 1

KRUI Know: The principal port of Lampung’s west coast, Krui has been touted as one of Indonesia’s best, year-round surfing spots. There are plenty budget surfing camps, offering three meals and a modest room for anywhere between US$15-25 per night.

Caution: Krui’s mean waves are not for novices. It’s not Kuta, where English-speaking local coaches can teach you surf. Carry cash, as most camps don’t have credit card machines. Best bet is Ombak Indah at Tanjung Setia (ombakindahsurfcamp. com) Transport: It’s about 6 hours from Bandar Lampung to Krui. The road is smooth, albeit hilly. Hotels in Bandar Lampung and Krui can arrange transport. While you can take the bus, it’s more convenient to take a rented shuttle (around Rp 110,000). But if you bring your board, rent a chauffeured car for about Rp 800,000 (one way).

Verdict: The town itself is nothing to shout about, but the miles of gorgeous white sand beaches is simply a tropical paradise. And if you’re a surfer, this is as good as it gets.

T

ucked away on the southernmost tip of Sumatra, the Bandar Lampung that I knew was an unremarkable port town with nothing to see or do.

For much of its 51-year existence, Lampung remained in the shadow of its older sisters–Palembang and Jakarta.

In the mid-1990s to mid-2000s, the city suffered a brain drain, thanks to an army of young industryready workers (myself included) who were quick to dump the yawning stagnation of their hometown for glossier locales.

Today, Bandar Lampung is Sumatra’s fourthlargest city, led by the country’s youngest governor.

As any visitor will soon find out, this province claims many superlatives.

It’s safe to assume that Lampung is coming out from its slumber. Over the past three years, Bandar Lampung has seen at least 7 major hotels erected in the city center.

In 2015, direct investment in the province amounted to a little over US$290 million, almost three quarters of which was foreign investment.

Choiria Pandarita, the head of Lampung’s Tourism and Creative Economy department, claims that there were almost five million tourist arrivals in 2015 alone.

It seems that the sleepy town where I grew up is on the road to progress.

Part industrial, part surfer’s paradise, Lampung is a place where you will just as easily hear the Muslim call to prayer as you will Nicki Minaj rapping out of a store front.

An increasing number of colleges and universities built over the past few years–the latest being the Sumatra Institute of Technology (ITERA), set up by the prestigious Bandung Institute of Technology (ITB)–makes Bandar Lampung a study destination for students coming from nearby regions.

An influx of comeback kids also has also created a pocket of cafe society, which stands in contrast with the unstoppable growth of franchised fast food vendors–in secondary Asian cities, they are the potent symbols of progress.

Unlike most regions in Indonesia, where the national language is spoken with a distinct twang, we speak a rather plain version of bahasa Indonesia.

We commonly refer to strangers as mas and mbak– Javanese for mister and miss–and the majority of people in urban areas won’t know how to count in the local language.

Javanese make up to more than half the population here, yet people don’t necessarily embrace a Javanese way of life either. My Padang-born brother-in-law speaks (and eats) only Padang at home–and he’s of Chinese descent. So yeah, we’re not big on culture here in Lampung.

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cover Story

Born Identity According to anthropologist Mary-Louise Totton, the locals poured the profits of their trade into ceremonial materials and adornments.

The ornate tubular sarongs, known as Tapis, were hand-woven from cotton and silk threads, colored with ancestral dye recipes, embellished with gold and silver threads.

sidetrip No. 2

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sidetrip No. 3

History on a Plate Jami Al-Anwar mosque and Thay Hin Bio temple in Teluk Betung, both believed to have been erected in the 19th century, tell of the existence of Arabic and Chinese

KRAKATOA

KILUAN

Know: Krakatoa is a volcanic island in the Sunda Strait between Java and Sumatra in Indonesia. It is part of Lampung province in Sumatra. Following the 1883 catastrophic eruption, a new island and a volcano, dubbed “Anak Krakatau” (child of Krakatoa) appeared. Anak Krakatoa is a national park. To land on the island, tourists must obtain a permit from Natural Resources Conservatory Body (BKSDA).

Caution: Did we mention that Anak Krakatau is an active volcano?

Another thing: beware of strong waves from August to November.

Transport: If you don’t mind spending Rp 3.5 million for a boat ride, lunch and a guided tour, contact Krakatoa Nirvana Resort (+62727322 888/322900. It’s reasonable price, as the package is meant for a group. You can take a yellow minibus from Bandar Lampung’s Rajabasa bus station to Kalianda, and the tour operator will take it from there.

Verdict: Definitely a worthwhile trip. If you are on the two-day tour, you might want to consider setting up camp for the night and hiking to Krakatoa the next morning.

Know: Nobody heard of Kiluan 10 years ago. But ever since a picture of wild dolphins surfacing around the bay emerged a few years ago, Kiluan became a hot holiday destination in Lampung. Some tour operators would have you believe that the dolphins dance all day long, all year–this is simply not true. The best time to visit Kiluan is during the dry season, between April and September.

Caution: Pack a meal, as there are no restaurants. To get to where the dolphins usually play, you need to get in a small, outrigger boat called a jukung, which is not for the fainthearted. Don’t forget to bring a dry pack to keep your gadgets safe while you’re sailing in open waters.

Transport: The trip to the Kiluan is a 4-hour nightmare. You need to rent a car to get there, and leave Bandar Lampung around 2 a.m. to catch the dolphins, who are out and from around sunrise to 7 a.m.

Two tour operators that I would trust for a Kiluan trip are Lamban Sebatin (dolphinkiluanbay.com) and Riko (+62 8127268883). For Rp 600,000, you can enjoy a two-day, one-night trip including transport, meals, (basic) accommodations and some interesting activities.

Verdict: The best thing about Kiluan is the natural lagoon, about a 10-minute walk from the village. A natural pond with clear and calm water, overlooking raging waves and big rocks, this lagoon is Kiluan’s best-kept secret. Beware of sea urchins and little moray eels though!

Bandar Lampung is Sumatra’s fourthlargest city, led by the country’s youngest governor.

As any visitor will soon find out, this province claims many superlatives.

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The more luxurious versions see embroidered silk or pineapple fiber threads, appliqué with mirrors and mica.

These sumptuous garments communicated a family’s global contacts, social station, and clan identity.

Tapis-making is one of a few surviving cultural legacy today. But the meanings and symbolisms of its native art– like the Siger headdress–is still subject to much debate.

Photos uprising (krakatau), willy wilson (food, kiluan)

But that doesn’t mean we don’t have a genuine culture. In fact, Lampung’s culture and history run deep.

Indigenous society consists of a complex system that divides people into three groups: orang abung (mountain people), headhunters who lived isolated until the 19th century; orang pubian (inlanders) and orang peminggir (coastal people) who live around Lampung’s bays.

Once dubbed the “pepper factory” by the Dutch, Lampung has a people who have for centuries developed a rather sophisticated agricultural and maritime knowledge. Abundant spices attracted traders from around the globe, from the Middle East to Europe.

cover Story

Part industrial, part surfer’s paradise, Lampung is a place where you will just as easily hear the Muslim call to prayer as you will Nicki Minaj rapping out of a store front. pork roasts to chicken noodles and tortoise soup (note that many of the places here are serving non-halal food).

My personal favorite is Siomay Hoyen, a street-side vendor on Jl. Ikan Hiu selling huge nuggets of dumplings made out of tenggiri fish, fresh water shrimp and pork.

Everybody knows Hoyen, not the least because of its late enigmatic owner. Legend has it that he was a Chinese immigrant working in the galley of a British ship in the 1930s. He missed the ship when it got underway from Bangka Island, came to Lampung after independence, started his dumpling-and-bao business, and was succeeded by his son.

If you’re feeling adventurous, head out to Warung Kopi Gembira. The house’s specialty is a tortoise soup, better known as Pi’O. Cooked with a mixture of Chinese herbs and local spices, Pi’O is a traditional Chinese delicacy that’s quite hard to find these days.

The meat is rich in texture, while other parts are slippery and sticky. And while you’re at it, go ahead any order yourself a cup of tubruk-style coffee.

Not adventurous enough? Well then head out to Panjang wharf, and stop at Pasar Panjang traditional market. Right opposite of this market is a 40-year-old restaurant best known for a lamb’s brain soup. The taste? Well, think of tofu.

WAY KAMBAS Know: A national park covering 1,300 square kilometers that hosts a few critically endangered Sumatran tigers, Sumatran elephants and Sumatran rhinoceroses. It is the oldest national reserve in the country, but as most TripAdvisor reviewers can tell you, it is a poorly managed one.

Caution: A certain part of Lampung province is notoriously unsafe. A crime syndicate targeting motorbikes and cars often strikes at dusk, so you want to make sure you leave Way Kambas around 4 p.m. at the latest!

Transport: Depending on the traffic, it takes about two to three hours to get there by car from Lampung. There are a lot of scams going on in Way Kambas - from the ticket counter to the motorcycle taxis. So forget about going it alone and being adventurous. Try a pre-arranged guided tour from Bandar Lampung, and you’ll have a peace of mind. A day trip to Way Kambas costs around US$100 per person for a minimum of two people from Bandar Lampung.

Verdict: A visit to the park is a nice break from the concrete confines of Jakarta, but don’t expect a true wild safari. Herds of elephants are seen here from time to time, but sightings of Sumatran tigers are extremely rare.

Photos willy wilson, HTT San (way kambas)

migrants in this port town. But apart from these two majestic structures, you can’t really find anything historical anymore these days.

But if you’re a gastro tourist, Teluk Betung –Bandar Lampung’s old town–is probably the best place for a maximum bang for a short weekend getaway.

You can drive around the city in 15 minutes, but you can find more variety, more specialties and more options from many lands at a pretty good price.

Lampungnese love their food, and they’re not snobby about where they eat it–fancy restaurants or tiny hawker stands–whoever’s got it good is what matters. The worst thing that can ever happen to you in Teluk Betung is to get a mediocre meal, and even that is unlikely.

Warung Sate Hj. M. Achmadi Malik is a good place to start. For the uninitiated, sate is spicy kebabs on skewers, served with peanut or soy sauce, salad and chilli relish. Warung Sate HJ. M. Achmadi Malik, located right next to Jami Al-Anwar mosque, offers chicken and mutton sate, marinated in a mixture of herbs blend and barbecued to perfection. Unlike the typically dry Indonesian sate, Malik’s version is juicy and tender.

Teluk Betung offers a wide variety of localized Chinese fare, from dumpling and

sidetrip No. 4

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January 24, 2016

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cover Story

Bandar Lampung Confidential Words Willy Wilson ILLUSTRATIONS Budhi Button

Have questions about what lies over the horizon? We’ve got some answers, advice and expertise. Send your travel queries to us at jplus@thejakartapost.com or connect with us on Twitter (@JPlusSunday) or Facebook (SundayJplus).

Tag your questions #takemeawayJPlus. Here are our tips for Lampung–and get your questions ready for our upcoming travel cover stories, when we’ll visit France and Bangkok.

EAT

Seafood Galore Tucked into a vast natural harbor, Bandar Lampung has for centuries been home to Javanese transmigrants, Arab and Chinese traders, as well as a number of ethnic groups from surrounding regions. Each brought with them a piece of home, contributing to a wide variety of immigrant food available in the city. Their own renditions of seafood–baked in banana leaf (Javanese), steamed with preserved vegetables (Chinese) or stewed with turmeric and pineapple (Palembang)–tell of the cosmopolitan nature of this sleepy, seaside town. Jumbo Kakap is a famous restaurant that offers the freshest waterborne organisms, served in whatever way you prefer. Located off the beaten path–in the most abandoned part of the old town–Jumbo Kakap is commendable in both prices and quality. Jl. Ikan Kakap No. 45, Teluk Betung Selatan, Telp.: +627213681177

Coffee Culture While Lampung is known for its great coffee, it isn’t easy to find a good place to sip a cup here. Thank god for El’s Coffee House, a homegrown place launched by siblings Elkana Arlen Riswan and Tia Riswan. El’s is perennially packed, and with good reason: The iced brew is tasty and the fusion food is excellent. It’s the perfect afternoon joint, when the sun streams in the windows looking out onto the street. Pair your iced latte with the house’s signature pasta and it’s almost like you’re in Bali. elscoffee. com Yellow Fever As in many other industrializing Indonesian cities, most young Chinese Indonesians in Bandar Lampung have left their families' dusty sundry shops and opted for a career in Jakarta’s swanky offices. But a few still continue their family legacy. Case in point: Bubur Acung. Over the past six decades, this family has been serving chicken porridge, mung bean soup and boiled chicken. The family used to go around town with a push cart, but today they’re parked in a regular spot near Pasar Mambo. The business opens in the evening, and folks enjoy the homemade food in a makeshift tent.

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See

Krakatau Festival Launched in the early 1990s, Krakatau Festival is an annual event promoting Lampung's tourism industry. The most anticipated part is the carnival, which parades people clad in the traditional attires of the Sai Batin and Pepadun tribes.

Little-known traditional craftsmanship is on full display –masks, woven fabrics as well as elaborate headgear. A marching band–complete with dancers and an elephant troupe from Way Kambas–never fails to amaze. A series of fringe competitions–ranging from photography to kite-flying– are also on the itinerary.

Gita Persada Butterfly Park Tired of the beaches and the seas? Head out to Gita Persada Butterfly Park, a privately-funded conservatory dedicated to saving Sumatran butterflies from extinction. Founded by Anshori Djausal and Herawati Soekardi in 1997, the park has conserved more 100 butterfly species. An eco-tourism pioneer in the province, the park offers visitors insightful information on butterflies. For US$20 per night, visitors can stay in a beautiful treehouse and enjoy a homemade breakfast and dinner. Gunung Betung Telp. +6285764647399

Museum Lampung Museum Lampung houses 3,233 artefacts that chronicle the all the major civilizations that ruled this region, including Hindu and Buddhist kingdoms. The museum, located on Jl. Pagar Alam, boasts an impressive collection of Chinese and Siamese ceramics. Perhaps the most interesting part is a section dedicated to the long-forgotten indigenous culture, which bears a striking resemblance to those of the Palembang, Thai and Khmer people in terms of weaving techniques, dances and musical instruments. Telp: +62721 783688

Secrets

Chinese Connection I Tsing, a Chinese Buddhist monk who visited Srivijaya (Palembang) in 672, where he studied Sanskrit, mentioned in his chronicle the Chinese name of a place that may have stood for Tulang Bawang - an ancient kingdom in Lampung. The words that he used were “To Lang Pohwang”, are believed by many to be a prosperous court by the river near Menggala, then a major wharf attracting foreign traders. In Hokkien dialect, “To Lang Pohwang” literally means “people from high places”, which the locals often use to refer to the fabled kingdom of Skala Brak. This kingdom is believed to be the ancestors of all indigenous ethnic groups in Lampung.

Ship Cloth The geography of Lampung has made sea trade the single most important business in the region. So it comes as no surprise that ships symbolized wealth and power, and became the principal motif of a sacred cloth that celebrated rites of passage in the local community known as pelepai. This ceremonial hanging, used in a series of gift exchanges, tells a story of a ship that ferries the dead from this world to the afterlife. The 19th century Krakatoa explosion wiped away the pelepai weavers - and their knowledge–making it a great cultural loss for Lampung.

It is estimated that there are only 1,000 to 1,500 palepai still in existence today.

Stinky Business You can enjoy durian all year round in Lampung. Head out to Negeri Sakti village in Gedong Tataan sub-district, about 17 km away from Bandar Lampung. Makeshift tents selling durian by the roadside are aplenty, offering small durians with sweet, dry and pale pulp.

You can also find a stretch full with durian vendors around Kemiling sub-district, which is on your way to Gedong Tataan.

The durians here taste bittersweet, with sticky and moist pulp.

a la mode

Dispatch

from Italy

IS THE PITTI PEACOCK GOING EXTINCT? WORDS Nic Screws, Bloomberg when they see clothes next fall they can actually incorporate into their life,” he says.

If you’re one of them, here are my top six style takeaways from the nattily dressed men of Pitti Uomo 89.

Wear more brown with blue. And tan and black. Brown is definitely the favored color partner of this season and next.

Rethink formal wear. Gone are the days when black tie meant only a silk-blend black tuxedo. Designers are reimagining their evening attire to include brown cashmere-blend dinner jackets and nubby, knitted cobalt-blue options.

A return to practicality. The overriding sense of the season is comfort but without sacrificing style. Embrace the looser, softer silhouettes and layering on of nubby textures—as they can be truly elegant when done correctly.

Mix patterns like a pro. The key to executing enviable pattern play is to balance proportions—such as mixing a larger, bolder plaid with a micropattern.

Then anchor the look by keeping everything else (shirt, tie, etc.) a solid.

Invest in down. Give your layering staples an added bonus with a down-filled gilet, or vest. Try wearing it over and under your tailoring for a sporty, more relaxed look.But above all, remember to do you.

You want to look stylish but not styled.

“All dressing well really takes is understanding fit, having confidence, and liking what you wear,” says Peskowitz.

Photos via bloomberg

P

itti Uomo, the biannual menswear trade summit in Florence, Italy, is the stuff an excessive Instagrammer’s dreams are made of.

There’s the architectural backdrops, such as the gothic-style Duomo; the golden hour light that illuminates the old bridges that divide the Arno River; food porn such as the obligatory cone of gelato and the city’s famous, massive bistecca alla florentina; and, of course, the well-documented street-style scene.

The latter has essentially, and unofficially, crowned Florence—and Pitti—the spiritual home of the menswear peacock (for the uninitiated: a man with an enviable yet highly calculated sense of style who puffs up around the famous “Walls of Pitti” in hopes of being photographed, as to be reassured of his sartorial dominance and achievements).

Now if I’m being honest, I have a love-hate relationship with the street-style culture. As a fashion journalist, who teeters on the edge of the new guard and the old (who usually practices a more self-effacing approach to expressing one’s style), I absolutely understand the importance of visual selfbranding and would go as far as to say I appreciate its far-reaching capabilities.

But Pitti is the exception to my grouchy pseudo-intolerance toward showboating. Here, the vibrancy of the industry makes it hard not to get as caught up in (or at least completely entertained and inspired by) the copious amounts of double-breasted, try-hard fashion hoopla that happens outside and in the Fortezza da Basso, the 16th century fort that has long housed the trade show.

Yet this season is different. So far it has seemed a lot less … bold. Instead of the usual sea of outlandishly mad-for-plaid-type gents in oversize,

fur-trimmed shearling coats and double monk-strap shoes, it has seemed as though a majority of attendees had pared down their attire considerably in favor of a return to a more “quiet luxury.”

I’m not alone in these observations.

“The flamboyant colors have definitely been toned down,” says Josh Peskowitz, menswear industry veteran and co-owner of Magasin, a new men’s store in Los Angeles. “People in general don’t feel as done up, and I think this represents the trend toward tailored clothing that men treat more as sportswear.”

It’s true, a casual formality—or elevated sportswear vibe—has certainly taken hold.

Instead of eclectic ensembles and, yes, the occasional misstep, such as a limegreen, three-piece suit or a pot-holder-like cardigan layered over overalls, men were mostly in minimalist, but luxe, separates.

“Sartorial Italian brands understand we live in a more casual world now and are creating less formal suits and jackets that work as well with sneakers and jeans as double monks,” says Brian Boye, executive fashion director at Men’s Heath, mentioning the greens, earth tones, and “incredible” casual, unstructured jackets and coats on show. “The emphasis is more function and fabric technology than showboat styles—a classic, wearable vibe for fall.”

“Men who might find fashion out of their reach may start to feel more accepting

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January 24, 2016 11

S E E I N G

T H E

B I G

P I C T U R E

THINKING IN PICTURES VISUAL ARTIST MUHAMMAD “EMTE” TAUFIQ DRAWS HIS IMPRESSIONS OF THE WORLD If you imagine your grocery list, you’ll probably think of a series of items handwritten on a piece of paper that you bring with you to the market.

Visual artist and illustrator Muhammad “Emte” Taufiq, however, has a different approach: He brings along his sketchbook, where he’s drawn images of everything that he needs to buy.

“I’ve been drawing pictures since I was around five. I drew on walls, books [….] I couldn’t stand to see a blank white space,” Emte said in an interview with JPlus. “My parents told me that it was easy to calm me down when I was a kid: All they needed to do was to give me sheets of paper and a pen.”

Emte currently works as an independent artist and as a graphic designer for projects commissioned by big companies like the automotive giant Toyota.

He’s also been illustrating for Indonesia’s

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JPlus January 24, 2016

leading publishing group, Gramedia Pustaka Utama, since 2002, as well as picking up first prize at the Adikarya Ikapi awards in 2005 and 2007 for his illustrations of children’s books, alongside more awards for print advertisements.

Emte has also exhibited his art at galleries across Jakarta, Malaysia and Singapore.

Asked about his childhood inspirations, Emte recalled reading comic books, including pencak silat (traditional martial arts) stories of Jan Mintaraga, and Dwi Koendoro’s satirical Panji Koming comic strips in the Sunday editions of Indonesia’s leading newspaper, Kompas.

“I like how artists combine drawing techniques with storylines and characters in comic books,” he said.

“I consider Kho Wan Gie’s Put On comic strips, which were published by the now defunct Chinese-language newspaper Sin Po, to be the pioneer of Indonesia’s comic strips,” Emte said.

“The beginning of Indonesia’s comic history was dominated

by Chinese-Indonesian illustrators, because Indonesians of other ethnicities didn’t consider being a cartoonist a prestigious job at that time.”

According to Emte, the emergence of Indonesian cartoonists from other ethnicities can be traced to the publication of Hasmi’s Gundala superhero comic books. “Aside from him, Hans Jaladara, Taguan Hardjo and Djair are prominent names that all Indonesian comic lovers have to know.

Dwi Koendoro is still active until today.”

Emte said he learned a lot from the French scholar Marcel Bonneff, whose book Komik Indonesia (Indonesian Comics) was published by Kepustakaan Populer Gramedia.

images via emte

Words Sebastian Partogi

“Marcel explained how comic books were confiscated in the 1960s because they were considered low-quality reading material and how Indonesian comics were dominated by romantic themes from the late 1960s to early 1970s. Then pencak silat and superhero stories started to take over. Comic books were sold only in small kiosks near schools or traditional markets,” he said.

Emte also said he drew childhood inspiration from the illustrated album covers for acts such as the pop/punk group Green Day and heavy metal bands like, Iron Maiden, Anthrax as well as Guns N 'Roses.

“These illustrations were impactful,” the 36-year-old said. “Sometimes I imitate these illustrations on my sketchbook.”

Emte, whose father was a corporate executive and mother a housewife, started to capitalize on his talents at an early age: As a junior high school student, he started to draw pictures commissioned by his schoolmates, who asked him to imitate the looks of popular cartoon or comic books characters.

He then started to contribute comic strips to now out-of-print children’s tabloid Fantasi, thanks to his father’s connections with several graphic designers. “This was when I started to use the professional name Emte. It was given to me by my father, who

thought the name Muhammad Taufiq was quite common.”

He studied graphic design at the Jakarta Arts Academy (IKJ), where he formed a community with fellow visual artists.

“Graphic design is applied visual art. We need to think whether our message can be received by the public or not. It’s quite different from pure art, where you do it purely for self-expression,” Emte said. “For example, if you want to create a campaign

against street racing targeted at teenagers, you have to pay attention to how they express themselves.”

Emte has made a calendar for Toyota’s calendar full of Hergé-style pictures depicting the evolution of the company, as well as drawing images inspired by Indonesian fairy tales for Permata Bank.

Among his favorite projects was an illustration he created for a poetry collection book titled Melihat Api Bekerja (Seeing Fireworks) by the Makassar poet M. Aan Mansyur. The book was nominated at the recent Kusala Sastra Khatulistiwa literary awards in the poetry category.

“I’ve never illustrated a poetry book before, and it was quite a risky project because I might have misinterpreted the poet’s meaning,” Emte said. “However, I

took on the project and drew illustrations based on each poem I read. Aan and I had never met before at that point in time, so we exchanged materials through e-mail.”

Emte said that he created illustrations based on how a particular poem made him feel. Aan said that some of Emte’s illustrations actually inspired him to write more poems that made it into the collection.

The poetry-and-drawing collaboration was exhibited at the Edwin Gallery in Jakarta in 2015, where Emte got the chance to meet Aan in person.

Two of his paintings were also exhibited at Vivi Yip’s booth at the Bazaar Art Jakarta festival: Paradise Lost and Thrown Privacy.

The former depicts a rock concert while the latter depicts a couple kissing. Symbols

reminiscent of Instagram photo tags are scattered across the paintings.

“Nowadays, we can’t really immerse ourselves in a music concert because we are distracted by the need to take pictures and upload them on social media. Some people also don’t seem to care about privacy anymore. Nobody actually cares to see

pictures of you kissing someone on the net,” he said, laughing.

Despite his participation in lots of exhibitions and a huge catalogue of independent artwork, Emte doesn’t own a gallery.

“I paint purely for self-expression,” Emte says. “I am also too busy to set up a gallery.”

Profile

Lea Aviliani Aziz

by (interior) design Words Prasiddha Gustanto

T

hanks to a booming economy, Indonesians in fields like the arts and the sciences are getting international recognition for their creative achievements.

However, Lea Aviliani Aziz, the new chief of the Indonesian Society of Interior Designers (HDII), says that Indonesia can also stand strong among other nations when it comes to interior design.

“Before, people still felt that architects could do it, but ceilings, walls, floors, furniture, lighting–all of that is the interior,” Lea says. “The government today is beginning to understand that we need interior designers instead of just architects.”

Lea, who is currently involved in renovating some 17,000 square meters at the airport in Bandung, West Java, was involved in the design of the office space of the Garuda Maintenance Facility (where JPlus previously shot chef Vindex Tengker for a cover story).

It helps that young Indonesian interior designers are ambitious and show promise, Lea, who has also designed the interiors of Emersia Hotel in Lampung and the Bumiminang Hotel in Padang.

Many of these local designers are winning awards across Asia, she

says, adding that they can get global recognition for their talent without outside help.

“We don’t have to send our children to schools abroad. We can already do that in Indonesia,” Lea said. “Like in Singapore and in Hong Kong, there are plenty of Indonesian interior designers who were schooled in Indonesia, not abroad.”

Lea wants the HDII, which marked its 33rd anniversary on Jan. 17, to help Indonesian interior designers reach international standards.

Her work with the HDII involves getting more public recognition for local designers, so that people can know about their potential.

“I hope that the government is more observant of prospects for interior designers, so we can send professionals who can work abroad, instead of just TKW [women migrant workers],” Lea said.

ARTPlus is published every fourth Sunday.

Photos arief suhardiman

As a child…was a tomboy My guilty pleasure is…Being a liar My hidden talent…Love to teach Words I use too often…“Tapi” [But] Five years from now I want to…Teach professional designers. To be more professional What keeps me busy…My projects, friends and books I would never say…“I can’t” and “I hate my country” In three words I am…One in million The person who inspires me most…My father What makes me laugh…Watching TV news What makes me cry…Love Don’t ever call me…Madame People will surprised to know that…I can read people’s mind and love kids My life as a movie…Julia Roberts in Stepmom If I was not a designer I would be…A therapist I can’t stand…Waiting My life motto…“Life isn’t about finding yourself, it’s about creating yourself” Me, in a song title …“It Might Be You “ by Stephen Bishop After midnight …Meditation, read a book or watching HBO Most lasting childhood memory… Always talking with my mom My friends describe me as…A person who is never tired People will surprised to know that… I can cook My dream place to make art…In Central Java The Indonesian artist I like the most…

Raden Saleh My most embarrassing moment…Crying I hate to admit that…I love to massage people I would tell my 25 year old self…To more learn and travel Three things I would take with me on a desert island…Water, camera and backpack

JPlus

January 24, 2016 13

good Living

Why Brazil’s Midcentury

Modern Furniture Is a Steal BRAZILIAN MODERNIST FURNITURE HAS BEEN HIDING IN PLAIN SIGHT WORDS James Tarmy, Bloomberg

I

pages are devoted to hundreds of objects by more than a dozen designers. “There was an intense, diversified production by very talented people,” says Zeuler R. M. de A. Lima, a professor at Washington University in St. Louis, who wrote the book’s forward. “It really caught on after the end of World War II.” This is hardly reflected in the material available for sale and the prices it fetches.

Outlandish chairs by Sergio Rodriguez, a furniture designer and founder of the onceprolific (now defunct) furniture store Oca, sell for just a few thousand dollars.

His highest lot at auction, a slatted “Mucki” bench from 1958, sold for $32,400 at Sotheby’s in 2007.

Compare that with a 1974 bench by the American modernist architect and designer George Nakashima, which sold for $62,500, last month at Sotheby’s in New York.

The wild, sweeping designs of Jean Gillon offer another example. Gillon, a Romanian furniture designer who emigrated to Brazil in the 1950s, was famous for his vaguely nautical,

netted chairs and ottomans.

Pieces by Gillon have come up for auction just 58 times around the world, according to Artnet’s database.

“I’m not sure if it’s stylistic preference,” Phillips’ Roddy says. “We try to include some of [Brazilian modernism] in each auction, but it’s not the easiest thing to sell.”

Beyond purely aesthetic concerns, there are a few plausible reasons as to why the segment has languished.

The first is a question of materials.

Many of Tenreiro’s pieces are made out of severely endangered Brazilian rosewood, which has been cut so heavily that it is officially listed as “threatened with extinction” by the Convention on International Trade of Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES). Objects containing rosewood are often subject to import/export restrictions.

“You can’t ship it in and out of the country,” says Roddy. “When it’s here, it’s here.” That means it’s difficult to get many Brazilian-modern objects with rosewood out of the country in the first place.

The

second reason is that for multiple decades “during Brazil’s military dictatorship, it was against the law to export furniture” says Zesty Meyers, co-owner of the furniture gallery R & Co., who wrote the introduction to Brazil Modern and who downplays the difficulty of importing/ exporting rosewood furniture.

There’s also the fact that much of this furniture was created in limited editions, or even as one-off pieces. “They were never produced in series like industrial design was supposed to be,” says Lima, the professor.

While that’s exciting—there’s certainly an allure to knowing your furniture is one-of-a-kind—it also means that there’s less chance to build a market: When 100 versions of the same chair have already sold, it’s fairly easy to determine how much the 101st chair should sell for.

A word of caution for prospective buyers ready to scoop up the next Brazilian modernist furniture they see: Simply existing as a (comparative) deal is no guarantee that the object will someday explode in value.

Photos via bloomberg

n 2005, a 1950s lacquered rosewood lounge chair with a crisp, beige leather cushion hit the auction block at Sotheby’s in New York.

Created by Joaquim Tenreiro, a seminal Brazilian modernist designer, it was the first of its kind ever to sell at auction, according to Artnet’s database.

Carrying a high estimate of US$20,000, bidders pushed up the final price, including premium, to $48,000.

It was an auspicious start for the market of one of the giants of South American modernism, and yet, over the subsequent decade, his prices never quite took off. The same can be said for most of Tenreiro’s Brazilian modernist peers.

“People are more interested in Italian and French mid-century,” says Meaghan Roddy, a senior specialist in the design department of Phillips New York.

“Brazilian design just isn’t on their radar.”

In a booming market for 20th century design in which chairs sell for thousands of dollars, Brazilian designers, for the most part, don’t rate. Why? It’s not for lack of material, at least material in the country of origin.

For much of the 20th century Brazil fostered a thriving design market.

In the design critic and curator Aric Chen’s upcoming book, Brazil Modern: The Rediscovery of Twentieth-Century Brazilian Furniture, more than 300

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tasteBUD

Soto Ayam Madura A long-distance collaboration with some master cooks Words & photos Theodora Hurustiati

T

he temperature has hit below zero where I live and a hot bowl of soto (Indonesian soup) was just what I needed. After opening the refrigerator to see what I had lying around–I wanted to avoid going out to the grocery store and freezing–I opened my cookbooks and browsed the Internet for inspiration. To my luck, I had all the ingredients for soto ayam Madura!

As the name implies, this chicken noodle soup comes from Madura Island, off the northeastern coast of Java. It’s a popular Indonesian delicacy. However, there were just too many recipes to choose from–and I didn’t want to disappoint my tummy if the final result was unlike the soto I’ve eaten in Indonesia!

This is when I’m grateful for smartphones. I directly consulted a qualified Soto Madura taster–my friend, Dylla, who has eaten it for decades. Her mom, Lysa, is Madurese and they often serve the soup for family gatherings.

I figured they should know best. So here goes my “lazy” interpretation of tante Lysa’s recipe with mbak Siti–their housekeeper–coaching me from afar.

They make everything from scratch, including the garnish. I skipped their special beans sprouts fritters and potato croquettes and I cheated by using storebought sambal and potato chips. I hope I’ve done them proud nonetheless.

Serves 4-5 ½ free-range or organic chicken 2 lemongrass stalks 3 kaffir lime leaves 3 bay leaves 3-4 l water 2 cloves of garlic 30g fresh ginger 10g fresh turmeric White pepper Vegetable oil Salt

Garnishes 250g glass noodles 200g soybean sprouts 1 spring onion, sliced 10g celery leaves, chopped 1 lime, cut into wedges Sweet soy sauce Potato chips Sambal (Indonesian chili sauce)

• Start with the broth since it will take a while to develop the flavor and to cook the chicken until it’s tender. The meat of an organic or a free-range chicken is tougher as it spent many time roaming free outside and, therefore, built more muscles than a chicken who spent its whole life caged.

• First, lightly bruise the lemongrass stalks and tie into knots to prevent them from breaking into pieces during cooking. Insert in a deep pot along with chicken, kaffir lime leaves, bay leaves, salt and water. Boil over medium heat with the lid on.

• Peel and slice garlic, ginger and turmeric into chunks. Place in a spice grinder with ground pepper and few tablespoons of oil. Pulse to turn them into a smooth paste. Stir-fry until fragrant and the color intensifies.

• Add spice paste to the pot. Simmer for 1.5 to 2 hours until chicken is tender and broth is reduced to about 2 liters. Pour more hot water and continue cooking if chicken is still tough.

• Meanwhile, in separate pans, blanch soybeans for about 30 seconds and boil glass noodles for a couple of minutes in salted boiling water.

Drain and set aside. Prepare also the rest of the garnishes.

• Filter broth through a fine sieve to discard the herbs and fibers left from the ground spices.

• Remove the chicken bone and skin. Tear the meat into bite-size strips.

• Portion noodles, soybean sprouts and chicken in bowls. Cover with the hot soto broth. Serve the rest separately, to be added according to each diner’s preferences.

Jakarta-born chef Theodora Hurustiati, a 13-year resident of Udine, Italy, was the runner-up in the TV cooking program La Scuola – Cucina di Classe (The School: Classy Cooking).

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January 24, 2016 15

trend DIAL

The Price of Fame

Infamous Mexican drug kingpin Joaquín “El Chapo” Guzmán, who was recently captured after escaping from prison, has become the unofficial face of L.A.-based boutique Barabas.

The blue long-sleeve shirt that El Chapo wore to meet with actor Sean Penn for an exclusive Rolling Stone interview has been flying off the racks, even causing the store’s website to crash.

The blue-and-grey stripped shirt is called “Fantasy” on the boutique’s website (barabasmen. com), where it sells for $128.

Laceless Adidas cleats

In 2015 Adidas made an announcement that laceless cleats would be hitting the field in 2016. The day has finally come, as the brand formally introduced Ace 16+ Purecontrol. Global stars such as Mesut Ozil and Ivan Rakitic debuted the cleats on field in January and they will be available in limited numbers at Adidas flagship stores in Paris, Marseille, London, Barcelona, Manchester and a few select retailers.

Relish, savor and revere Give these head turners a second, or third look Panerai’s Luminor 1950 Sealand

Luxury Swiss watch manufacturer Panerai has just unveiled its latest special edition in honor of the Chinese Zodiac. With only 99 units available on the market, this year-of-the-monkey special is the eighth in this exclusive series, which started in 2009 and has also featured watches recognizing the years of the tiger, rabbit, dragon, snake, horse and goat. The Luminor 1950 Sealand has remarkable engraving on the dial’s steel cover paying tribute to the ancient Chinese astrological tradition. The sophisticated technique used is the creation of highly skilled Italian craftsmen who make each individual cover entirely by hand, producing unique pieces that are truly fascinating.

Tory Burch Spring/Summer 2016

Ermenegildo Zegna Fall Winter 2016/17

Ermenegildo Zegna’s head of designer Stefano Pilati has created a dark, yet classic mood for the line’s latest Fall Winter 2016/2017 collection. Black is the dominant color. Fabrics used are embellished by three-dimensional hand embroidery realized in Italy, ornamental motifs and a woven patchwork of jacquards patterns, from super fine Lanificio Zegna wools to recycled polyester. The result is a truly authentic couture collection that makes the modern man look more interesting.

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For her Spring 2016 show, American fashion designer Tory Burch pays homage to the wide range of nature’s palette. A signature tunic plays a central role, with a focus on romantic prints and patterns inspired by flowering vines, leaves and trumpet-shaped petals. There is an emphasis on contrast: natural fabrics paired with iridescence, neutrals with brights, simple shapes with textures and intricate embroidery.

Accessories include oxidized jewelry, handbags with opalescent edging and shoes with a sculptural gold heel, originally inspired by a slice of natural bark. +Dian Arthen