Jplus 2016 03 13 lores

Vol. 3 No. 17 I March 13 - 19 , 2016

BATIK MYSTIQUE DESIGNER ERA SOEKAMTO’S SPIRITUAL TAKE DISCO FEVER STRIKES GIORGIO MORODER’S GIG

MORE THAN LIP SERVICE A JPLUS BEAUTY GUIDE

IN FOR A PENNE AKIRA WATANABE’S PASTA PLACE

Editor's note

Check List

In abundance Batik might be my favorite thing about local fashion–just ask my wife about the 38 shirts in my closet. It was thus a pleasure to catch up with Era Soekamto, the talented designer who has been taking the batik atelier created by Iwan Tirta in new directions.

Era is a whirlwind conversationalist, flitting effortlessly between a discussion of the Fibonacci sequence and its connection to traditional batik patterns to talking about Javanese influences on Hinduism and Buddhism as well as legendary lost civilizations and Indonesia.

We spoke to her at the Iwan Tirta Private Collection in the Grant Hyatt Jakarta’s Shopping Gallery, which has several framed historical photographs of the

late maestro.

Say the name Iwan Tirta and the phrase “exquisite creations” comes to mind, so it was a surprise to see the 1970s-era photo of Iwan that accompanies this article.

I love everything about the photo. I love Iwan with his classic batik shirt opened several buttons. I love the hairstyles of the glamorously beautiful models lying at his feet. I love the surprising infusion of flower power with traditional Indonesian textiles.

While Justin Beiber ruined the use of the word swag for lifestyles journalists, there’s no other phrase to describe how awesome I find the photo. On a similar note, please see At Your Leisure (p9). Our contributor

Marcel Thee spoke with Giorgio Moroder when the electronic music pioneer was in town recently for a gig at Dragonfly.

As can been seen in Marcel’s interview, the 75-year-old Giorgio, who also recorded the biggest hits of artists such as Donna Summer and Blondie, still has (forgive me) swag. In abundance.

Enjoy the weekend!

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A LA MODE India at Paris Fashion Week

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WANDERLUST 'Downton Abbey' redux

Chris Razukas jplus@thejakartapost.com

mark my words

Of chefs and celebrity Everyone wants to be a 'chef' these days WORDS Kevindra P. Soemantri

JPlus Team Editor Christian Razukas Art Director Budhi Hartono Graphic Designer Hengky Wijaya Marketing & Advertising Sales & Marketing Director Ady P. Pamungkas

ady.pamungkas@thejakartapost.com

Marketing Executive Faisal Ahmad

In recent years, a lot of people in Jakarta have taken on the title of chef, whether or not they’ve gone to cooking school–or whether or not they’ve got experience.

However, as time goes by–and as people become more knowledgeable about fine dining–it’s clear that there are two kinds of chefs in the local culinary world.

There are the trained professionals, busy at work in the kitchen, and the celebrities, who are social media savvy, familiar with preparing a handful of dishes–and not shy about calling themselves chefs.

The phenomenon is a frequent cause for debate among culinary professionals, gastronomes and food writers.

While there is no law barring a person from taking on the title, there’s always a question of ethics. I look to the West, where celebrity chefs are typically experienced restaurateurs and gourmet trained.

In front of the spotlight, these chefs, whose numbers include Marco Pierre White, Jamie O, Daniel Boulud, and Tom Collichio, evince colorful personalities.

Jamie is a good boy, for example, while Marco is a kitchen Lucifer.

However, their shows evince a knowledge that is the result of long hours spent under pressure in a professional kitchen environment.

These chefs have a skill that is the result of far more than the single year of culinary

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school that some think is sufficient for them to take on the title.

Rinrin Marinka is a culinary teacher, a former Masterchef Indonesia judge and also the owner of Mars Kitchen at Fatmawati.

She’s also fed up with celebrity chefs, saying that good food is more important than good looks, "likes" or the spotlight.

I agree. Celebrity chefs have the power to educate the larger market– and can become role models for future gastronomes. Plus, and sorry if I sound catty here, good looks can’t make mediocre food taste good.

However, there’s another type of celebrity on the local culinary scene–the celebrity restaurateur–who is driving the rapid opening-and equally rapid closure– of new restaurants.

The ultimate fate of any restaurant rests with its owners. Here in Jakarta, lot of celebrities have courageously invested in restaurant businesses.

I’ve been to some of these celebrityowned restaurants. Some are good, some are bad–although too many places are coasting by thanks to clientele who will frequent a restaurant for its status, regardless of the quality of food or service.

What makes a restaurant unique is how owners must balance the business side against the multiple arts of food, ambience and hospitality.

While Indonesians call these celebrities “artists”, that’s no guarantee that they can master the three “restaurant arts”.

An owner who is too busy shooting or singing and can only stop by a restaurant once a week is asking for trouble. Who’ll ensure the staff is well trained? Who will manage the business?

I spoke to Mike Lewis about this issue, and the actor, model and restaurateur said that his background in hospitality really helped him run the restaurant.

As a boy, his hotelier mom asked Mike to help out when various ambassadors dined at their home (his dad is a diplomat).

While hospitality became second nature for Mike, how about the case of other celebrities?

A harmonious duet between the owner, the chef and the restaurant’s manager is key.

Take, for example, Robert De Niro, a successful restaurateur and part owner of one venture with celebrity chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, also known as Nobu.

Chef Nobu’s sushi kingdom, which spans from London to Los Angeles, grew out of De Niro’s persona and network as celebrity and Nobu’s flawless cooking.

Imagine if celebrities and celebrity chefs here in Jakarta did the same.

Mark My Words shifts focus between fashion, food, parenting, technology and travel on a weekly basis.

faisal@thejakartapost.com

@JPlusSunday

SundayJplus

thejakartapost.com/jplus

On the cover

Era Soekamto Photographer Christina Phan Stylist Ananda Adityasanti Makeup Artist Dimas Singgih Wardrobe Iwan Tirta Location: Iwan Tirta Private Collection, Grand Hyatt Jakarta Shopping Arcade

out and about in jakarta Photography Dedy Koswara’s ‘Hidden Realms’

Couture Plaza Indonesia Fashion Week While Indonesia Fashion Week draws to a close on Sunday at the Jakarta Convention Center, there’s still a chance for you to get a fix of haute couture, courtesy of Plaza Indonesia Fashion Week. As part of the event’s 16th iteration, the subject of this week’s cover story, Era Soekamto (p6-9) will present her latest collection, Mahayana, for Iwan Tirta, on March 14. Other designers slated to make a bow include YJI x Ikat Indonesia, Carven, Yosep Sinudarsono, Rama Dauhan, COAST, Ardistia New York, The Goods Dept., SEBASTIAN red and more.

Underwater photographer and PADI diver Dedy Koswara is showcasing a series of stunning photos of Indonesia’s undersea world as part of “Hidden Realm: Underwater Series 2” at Pacific Place. The exhibition, presented by ISA Art Advisory and Citi Prestige, runs until March 20.

Images are available for purchase. Meanwhile, at Plaza Senayan, the Leica Store Indonesia and PannaFoto Institute are presenting an exhibition of stunning urban themed photos–captured with Leica cameras, natch–that is titled “Me and My City”, which ends March 31.

Where: Pacific Place When: Until March 20 Info: isaartadvisory.com

Music Multilatérale Ensemble honors Slamet Abdul Syukur The French Institute of Indonesia in Jakarta is planning a special concert by the Multilatérale Ensemble to honor the late Slamet Abdul Syukur.

The famed Indonesian composer, who died last year at the age of 80, studied under luminary French musicians such as Olivier Messiaen and Henri Dutilleux during his tenure at the Paris Conservatory. The ensemble will present the works of several contemporary French and Singaporean composers in addition to the works of Slamet. Admission is free.

Where: Teater Kecil, Taman Ismail Marzuki in Cikini, Central Jakarta When: March 14 Info: ifi-id.com

Where: Plaza Indonesia When: March 14-19 Info: plazaindonesia.com

Festival JAPANESE-KOREAN CULTURAL FESTIVAL

For those who love Japanese and Korean pop culture, the Kemuning Gading artss building in Bogor, West Java, will present a full-day Japanese-Korean cultural festival at the end of the month. Events include performance from an Indonesian J-pop style band, Korean and Japanese dance cover competition, a bazaar, a cosplay street parade, games, door prizes and much more.

Exhibition "Hidden Creativity of Public Spaces”

Su Tomesen will present a series of photographs, installations and videos as part of an exhibition titled “Traces: The Hidden Creativity of Public Spaces” at the Erasmus Huis Dutch cultural center in Jakarta. The acclaimed Dutch artist is exploring the informal economy in cities as well as the spark of creativity that emerges in public areas. On the agenda is a screening of her film Jalan (Road).

Where: Erasmus Huis When: March 17 to April 27 Info: sutomesen.nl

Where: Kemuning Gading arts building When: March 27

Film Talking About Movies

In the run-up to the observation of National Film Day on March 30, the Indonesian Film Screening Community will hold a special discussion at Galeri Indonesia Kaya at Grand Indonesia. The talk will revolve around how noncommercial screenings have helped develop the local industry and discussants include experts from Padang, Semarang and Denpasar.

Where: Galeri Indonesia Kaya, Grand Indonesia When: March 17

JPlus

March 13, 2016

3

looking Good

Lipstick

lockdown HOW TO GET THE LOOK YOU WANT

I

f there’s one thing you should always have in your purse, it’s lipstick.

Actually, you should have at least a few that you can stash in your other purse–and on your vanity, or in your bathroom or in your partner’s bag–because it’s the one makeup item that can make you look polished with just a swipe. However, some women can be put off by all the preparations, finishes, color choices and commitment needed.

Never fear! With a few easy tips, you’ll be confident when choosing a lipstick–and wonder why you ever settled for natural lips before.

Photos via afp

WORDS Fedina S. Sundaryani

Prep Before we can get to choosing a perfect lipstick–patience, my dear–we have to make sure that our lips are in tip-top shape.

No matter what the formula, lipstick tends to lay unevenly on cracked, dry lips, leaving a woman looking a little crusty.

Apart from drinking at least two liters of water a day, you can exfoliate your lips to ensure they remain smooth and plump.

While several exfoliators are on the market, save money and slather on your favorite lip balm before exfoliating gently in circles, using either an old toothbrush or a soft face towel. There you have it.

Finish & Formula Let’s decide how we want our lips to look. Are you looking for that vintage look? Do you want a lipstick that looks a little more natural? Maybe you’re a fan of glitter? Choosing the right finish and formula also affects your lipstick’s wear time.

Cream or Satin Cream finishes, also known as satin lipsticks, are the easiest to pull off–and arguably the most comfortable. Most cream lipsticks have a good color payoff and use a moisturizing formula that can often translate into a slight sheen. However, they can be prone to smearing and transfer, due to their creamy formula, and may need reapplication after four to five hours or after eating.

Matte Matte lipsticks are, it’s safe to say, very in right now, thanks to Kylie Jenner. Matte lipsticks are often pigmented and have a flat effect, yielding zero shine. Although a lack of creaminess does help matte lipsticks to last for hours on end, it’s important for your lips to be moisturized and well prepped, because this formula tends to emphasize every imperfection.

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looking Good

jewelry.

If you have yellow undertones, look for lipsticks that are warm in color—those with orange or brown bases, for example—while those with pink undertones should go for cool tones with hints of blue or purple.

Pearl/Frosted Now for a little fun and 1990s nostalgia: Frosted lipstick! Sometimes known as pearl finishes, these lipsticks are shimmer and reflect light.

Pigmentation is varied, as some are sheer, in order to layer over other lipsticks; while others have enough color payoff and can be worn alone. If you’re a little scared of all that glitter but still want some shine, then use a lip brush to apply, as frosted lipsticks can be sheered out.

Color There are several things you can do to make it easier to find your power lipstick color, either by choosing based on your undertone or your skin tone.

Undertone Everyone’s skin has either a yellow or pink undertone, which translates into a warm or cool tone, respectively.

You should know which one you have so that you can choose the right color for you. It’s not hard as it sounds.

Look at the veins on your wrists: If they are more blue, then you have pink undertones.

However, if they lean to green, then you have yellow undertones. If you’ve got a mix of both blue and green, then you’re the lucky owner of neutral undertones and can wear any color.

However, if looking at your wrists and determining your vein color is still a little tricky, then try this method: Hold up pieces of gold and silver jewelry to your face and see which one goes best. If you find that the gold looks perfect, then you have yellow undertones, while pink undertones look best with silver

Skin tone Even with all that guidance, determining your undertone can be tricky. Using your overall skin tone as a basis might be easier.

Those with olive skin tones usually have neutral undertones, so you have a wide variety of colors to choose from. Most nudes, pinks, oranges and reds will look good on you–though anything too yellow can make you look a little ashen.

People with fair skin should avoid anything too light or yellow, as it might leave you looking washed out. However, soft pinks, bold reds and deeper colors will look amazing due to the color contrast. If you are looking for a nude, though, go for those with rose undertones and avoid anything too skin-like.

Deep plums and berries look great on those with darker skin tones. Furthermore, look for nude lipsticks that have brown undertones but avoid any lipstick that is too light, as it can look a little garish.

Final word Be confident and choose a color that makes you happy! Lipstick can–and should–be worn as much as possible, so buy as many as you can, so that you are never without a color that suits you.

travel INTEL

Jet–set–go Michelin to publish Seoul edition The Michelin Guide, an international benchmark of good food, said it will publish a guide of restaurants and hotels in Seoul later this year.

The guidebook for Seoul 2017 will be Michelin’s 27th edition globally and the fourth in Asia, following Japan, Singapore and Hong Kong.

Michelin officials said the guide would highlight the dynamic culinary scene in the bustling capital city and boost food tourism in search of new culinary experiences.

“Michelin will soon visit the country to evaluate restaurants in Seoul,” Kim Bo-hyung, the country manager of Michelin Korea, said in a briefing.

“Korea has a vibrant food culture that has much growth potential. The world has been paying attention to the traditional, unique Korean food.”

Bernard Delmas, representative of Michelin Travel Partner for Asia-Pacific, said the latest addition reflects the gastronomic boom in the nation, hoping France’s famed restaurant bible could highlight quality Korean restaurants and emerging chefs to the global audience.

“Michelin leaders will discover the best hotels and restaurants in Seoul. The guide will reveal the new culinary trend and emerging chefs here,” Delmas said. — ANN/Korea Herald

Boutique wine deliveries in singapore

Flying into a future of clean toilets

Together with the new food delivery services that have popped up in the past year, there is now a new app that promises to deliver wine in under an hour. The delivery man, armed with a corkscrew and plastic wine cups, will even open the bottle for you.

The app, called BottlesXO, is available on both iOS and Android devices. It has GPS technology that allows customers to track how far the delivery driver is from a location. The service allows for cash on delivery or payment via credit card. To sweeten the deal, there is no minimum order or delivery fee.

The service began nine months ago in Shanghai, moved to Suzhou and Hong Kong within six months, and has since expanded to Singapore.

There are plans to offer the service in other AsiaPacific cities.

On weekdays, the service is available from 3:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m., while on weekends, operations run from noon to 10:30 p.m. The cut-off is in accordance with Singapore’s drinking regulations.

Along with tasting notes, the app tells users what food can be paired with the wines, which are all sourced from Europe. There is also background information on the wine makers. — ANN/Straits Times

Boeing is preparing a solution: a selfcleaning toilet. The US plane-maker says it has found a way to use ultraviolet light to kill 99.99 per cent of germs in jetliner toilets, disinfect all surfaces after every use in three seconds and keep the restroom from becoming a petri dish.

Boeing’s lavatory prototype uses a type of ultraviolet light, different from the rays in tanning beds, that does not harm humans.

Activated only when the toilet is not in use, the lights flood touch surfaces such as the toilet seat, sink and counter top.

Boeing has filed a patent for the concept, which it says can minimise the growth and potential transmission of micro-organisms. The sanitizing even helps rid a toilet of odors.

It also operates without being touched. The cleaning system would lift and close the toilet seat by itself so that all surfaces are exposed during the cleaning cycle, according to Boeing.

Other perks for those worried about germs: a hands-free faucet, soap dispenser, trash flap, toilet lid and hand dryer. The plane-maker is also studying a hands-free door latch and vacuum vent system for floor spillage. -Bloomberg

JPlus

March 13, 2016

5

The Origins of Creation

cover Story

BATIK IS MORE THAN JUST A FASHION PIECe, says IWAN TIRTA DESIGNER ERA SOEKAMTO Words Sebastian Partogi

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Photos Christina Phan

“W

hen we reach deep down into our being, and get to the zero point, that’s where the ‘microcosmos’, or our ‘small’ spirit, merges with the ‘macrocosmos’, or the grand spirit of the outer world–and that’s where creativity starts,” fashion designer Era Soekamto said during a recent workshop titled “Meditation in Making Batik”.

A dozen or so participants had just finished about an hour of meditation followed by a few hours of making batik while sitting on the floor at the Coworkinc space

cover Story

Our ancestors transmitted knowledge from one generation to the next not through writing, but through the sacred art embodied in temple reliefs and batik.

in Kemang, South Jakarta.

“This workshop taught me that making batik is a complicated process–and of the philosophical meaning behind the symbols embodied by the fabric,” one participant named Sofina told the class. “With this in mind, I’ll never negotiate again when I buy batik.”

Positioning batik as a defining part of Indonesian culture and history has been the struggle of Era, a defender of the fabric.

She is the fashion designer and creative director behind the legendary batik house Iwan Tirta, as well as her own brand, Era Soekamto Indonesia.

“Our ancestors transmitted knowledge from one generation to the next not through writing, but through the sacred art embodied in temple reliefs and batik,” she told JPlus on the sidelines of the workshop. “By preserving batik, we preserve a civilization.”

ROMANCE WITH ‘BATIK’ While batik has long been part of Era’s creative life, her involvement with the fabric has taken several detours.

“I made it into the fashion world when I became the runner up for the Indonesian Design Contest around 1997 or 1998 with my batik design featuring the mythical jatayu bird,” Era, who was born in Mataram, West Nusa Tenggara, in 1976, said when interviewed at the Iwan Tirta Private Collection boutique in the Grand Hyatt Jakarta shopping arcade.

“I learned how to use a canting [wax pen] from designer Carmanita,” Era said, referring to the famed batik maker.

“When I studied at the LaSalle International Fashion College in Singapore, however, I was taught to capitalize on a market segment that has been untapped,” she says.

“At that time, there was almost no brand that really tapped the young adult market niche, so I choose to create the Urban Crew label, which was very rebellious, naughty and independent, to suit to the young spirit.”

When Era started teaching at the Jakarta outpost of LaSalle nine years ago, her life took a turn when she realized that she didn’t know how to answer students who asked her about the connection between Java’s ancient kingdoms and batik.

“That propelled me to go and learn. I started by reading lots of books and clippings about Indonesian history and culture,” Era said. “I started visiting sites like Trowulan, East Java, and a number of temples in Yogyakarta. I started meeting people who had similar interests and got myself involved in activities like batik workshops and traditional dance performances.”

In 2010, a friend working for the Indonesian Chambers of Commerce and Industry (KADIN) introduced her an acquaintance from the Iwan Tirta label.

When Iwan Titra fell ill before his death in 2010, Era was asked to come on board as the label’s designer due

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March 13, 2016

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cover Story

I thought maybe this was my opportunity to put all my knowledge about Javanese culture and history into play.

to her breadth of knowledge of batik and Javanese culture.

“At the time, I said no,” Era said. She was too busy running Urban Crew and hoped to sell it to an investor.

In 2012, two years after Iwan Tirta’s death, the label made her another offer.

Urban Crew had been sold off and Era’s designs were available at department stores and boutiques across Indonesia.

This time, Era said yes. “I thought maybe this was my opportunity to put all my knowledge about Javanese culture and history into play.”

Picking up the mantle of Iwan Tirta would be daunting for any designer, however. Iwan, who died in 2010, incorporated batik into the pieces made by his label.

A graduate of the University of Indonesia’s law school, where he later taught, Iwan launched his eponymous label in 1973.

Most will recognize Iwan’s work from the batik shirts worn by the presidents and prime ministers during the Asia Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) meeting in Jakarta in 1994.

President Joko “Jokowi” Widodo posthumously awarded Iwan the Bintang Budaya Parama Dharma, the nation’s highest decoration for cultural figures.

The boutique where Era was interviewed features a wall of photographs of Iwan, appearing swank in batik and flared pants in one photo, posing with thenUK prime minister Margaret Thatcher in another.

There’s also a quote from Iwan on one of the

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JPlus March 13, 2016

boutique's windows that underscores the affinity shared by the pair: “To me, the art of batik is a form of mediation, a means of emotional expression.”

Era is steeped in his legacy. “Iwan Tirta took batik to a whole different level by adding a modern touch to it. Take this terang bulan [moonlight] cloth, as an example,” Era says, pointing to one pale-green piece of fabric.

“Usually gurda (batik depicting the patterns of the mythical garuda) embodies small motifs, but he made the motifs ‘macroscopic’ by enlarging them. He also minimized the border composition of the cloth. This is how he modernized it without losing its traditional touch.”

Era said that international designers like Balenciaga and Chanel did similar things when rejuvenating traditional fashions. “The only difference is that batik designs are made by hand.”

“I met pak Iwan once but never really spoke to him.

Although I admire him and his works, I’ve never imagined that I would work on his legacy,” Era says. “Maybe this is what you call law of attraction. The universe already sets everything out for you. You just need to work hard and refine your skills. No need to worry about your career milestones.

Just leave it to God.” OF FASHION AND SPIRITUALITY Talk with Era briefly and her strong spiritual convictions become evident.

She said that she had long been influenced by traditional Javanese spiritual beliefs as well as the works of Persian poet Jalaluddin Rumi.

“The Koran, and basically the religious teachings of Christianity and Buddhism, essentially says that God is closer than your jugular vein,” Era says. “In order to access

His energy of love and compassion, however, you have to have consciousness where your soul is opened up.”

She continues. “It’s hard to explain what consciousness is. It’s almost like explaining the flavor of durian to somebody who has never eaten the fruit his whole life. You have to experience it by yourself in order to know how consciousness manifests itself within you,” she said, suggesting that meditation was a good practice to achieve this consciousness.

Consciousness is the theme of Era’s next show, titled “Mahayana”, as part of Plaza Indonesia Fashion Week, on March 14. “This fashion show speaks about full consciousness and awakening. It comprises around 24 pieces and is inspired by the journey of Buddhism in Jambi, Sumatra and Java in the ninth century.”

Era said that the show took two years to prepare.

“A year for research, another to create the designs.

In researching this, I went to many different sites in Jambi and Java, as well as read a lot of books.”

For the designs, she plays with the bright colors that are synonymous with Jambi’s fabric tradition.

“I attempt to depict the glory of ancient Buddhist kingdoms at the ninth century through loose, tentlike silhouettes, which were inspired by India, where Buddhism comes from.”

For her next project, Era says she wants to design batik based on the Fibonacci sequence–the so-called “Golden Ratio” “But I’m not going to talk about it now, so you will have a new topic to write about next time,” Era says, smiling.

a la MODE

Indian designers feel the love at Paris fashion week THE INDIANS ARE NOT JUST COMING– THEY HAVE ARRIVED. WORDS Fiachra GIBBONS and Solange UWIMANA, AFP

African wax print fabrics.

With his newly awarded Legion d’Honneur–a kind of French knighthood –in his pocket, the Mumbai-born designer cut loose with day-glo colors and prairie skirt combinations that were made to party.

“I am the first Indian creative to be rewarded for fashion and arts in France,” he told reporters after the show. “It’s exceptional, it took a long time to sink in.

Trust the French to find you and tell you that you deserve it.”

The younger Mishra has also been feeling the love, even though his restrained palette never strayed much further than royal blue, black and cream, with a little bit of pale yellow creeping in at the end.

The 37-year-old designer, who won the prestigious International Woolmark Prize two years ago, told AFP that his new line was inspired by the unconditional love of his five-month-old daughter.

And you could feel a warm glow in the room as models walked out at the Palais de Tokyo modern art gallery.

The style bible Vogue loved it, praising the collection as “a new level of accomplishment” and the most “streetwise...fresh and contemporary of Mishra’s designs”.

Vogue’s legendary style guru Suzy Menkes had already pronounced herself a fan, saying “the delicacy of the knits, which were so fine that they could barely be identified as wool on the runway, was

breathtaking.”

Mishra–who often quotes Gandhi–has been praised for the way he has melded modern methods with India’s amazing craft traditions.

He imports Merino wool from Australia which is then transformed by rural workers in remote corners of the country.

“The entire approach we follow is craft-based, village-based and sustainable, which can be credited to my humble upbringing,” the science graduate from rural Uttar Pradesh told AFP. “There is such craftsmanship, money cannot make people work like that, it is done for the love of creating things like this,” said Mishra, who called his show, “It Felt Love”.

He said for him the magic is in the hidden artistry which the eye cannot see, picking up a sari T-shirt which was concealed by a dress to show the “hand embroidery and stitching done in the villages”.

“When the world is ruled by machines we need to slow down things and create something with love and ideas. We need to soak into techniques,” he added.

Mishra said he was trying to put poetry back into people’s lives.

The collection’s signature white and royal blue colors came from Chinese porcelain, he said, with some of the skirts cut from material normally used for elegant table cloths.

“It’s all about things which touch the heart,” he said. “We love sipping coffee or tea from a beautiful china cup. And it is the same for clothes. We don’t create them just for functionality.”

Photos via afp

P

aris Fashion Week is more Indian than ever, with two designers from the subcontinent cementing their place at style’s top table.

Rahul Mishra confirmed his reputation as one of fashion’s rising stars with an autumn/winter women's wear collection of great restraint and purity.

In contrast, the never less-than-spectacular Manish Arora bathed in the glory of being awarded one of France’s highest honors by filling his catwalk with celebrity models that included the artist Sophie Calle.

The two designers could not be more different, yet both were as far from the subcontinental cliches of saris and sequins as you can imagine.

Arora, a Paris favorite who formerly headed the Paco Rabanne label, drew on Americana and Africa rather than India for his Wild West-themed “Hell’s Belles” show that he called “mad”.

But its “Twin Peaks on Haribo” look went down a storm with his fans, who particularly loved the zany way he rebooted humble denim jackets and skirts with tribal Rahul Mishra embroidery and

JPlus

March 13, 2016

9

wanderlust

Downton

withdrawal?

What’s a 'Downton Abbey' fan to do now that the series is over?

C

onsider a trip to soothe your sorrows. There are castles and dozens of film locations in Britain, and Gilded Age mansions here. There are maps and apps, and even a costume exhibit touring museums around the US. Here are some details.

THE GILDED AGE Consider a trip to Newport, Rhode Island, to see the Breakers, the Elms and other Gilded Age mansions. These massive, ornate homes, filled with art and antiques and set on lavishly landscaped grounds, were built and owned by nouveau riche Americans in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

Their new money was despised by British aristocracy, but the backstory of Lord Grantham showed how those dollars were often used to prop up the crumbling world of England’s landed gentry: He took his bride, Cora, from one of those rich American families because he needed her fortune to secure his estate. Cora’s American mother, played by the inimitable Shirley MacLaine in a few early episodes, lived in Rhode Island.

Other famous Gilded Age mansions include the Biltmore in Asheville, North Carolina, and the Mount, in western Massachusetts.

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HIGHCLERE CASTLE Highclere Castle, where most of Downton was filmed, is about 45 miles from London and open to the public 60 to 70 days a year in spring and summer.

Advance tickets to tour the mansion are nearly sold out for 2016, though some walk-up tickets are available. Details at highclerecastle.co.uk.

A number of private tour operators, like Collette, offer trips that guarantee access to Highclere.

For a tour without going anywhere, try the US$2.99 Highclere app.

Photos via AP, DRIEHAUS MUSEUM, richard munckton

WORDS BETH J. HARPAZ, AP

wanderlust

ELSEWHERE ACROSS THE POND A free online map detailing 71 Downton locations, nearly half in London, was put together by the United Kingdom branch of Wayfair, the home goods retailer: wayfair.co.uk. Sites include West Wycombe Park, featured as Lady Rosamund’s London home at 35 Belgrave Square; the London Charterhouse, used in three scenes; and the Great Conservatory at Syon Park in Brentford, where Lady Mary and Lord Gillingham had tea.

Fangirl Samantha Scott, who works at Stride Travel, a review site for tours and trips, put together a guide to 10 Downton locations, including Bampton church, featured in the wedding of Carson and Mrs. Hughes, and Horsted Keynes Railway Station, where many scenes were shot, including Lady Mary’s farewell to her husband as he went off to war: stridetravel.com.

Britmovietours.com offers a variety of Downton-themed tours,

including one focusing on locations in London.

And let’s not forget Inveraray Castle in Scotland, the setting for the fictional Duneagle Castle, home to the Grantham cousins and the lovely, headstrong Lady Rose.

The castle is a bit more discreet than other sites in advertising its connection to the series, but its website offers some details: inveraray-castle.com.

Other destinations with no connection to the show are also offering themselves to Downton fans in mourning. In Scotland, Dundas Castle’s “Downton Experience” starts at US$3,500 a day. Here’s the pitch: “Whether you want to live like a lord, cook like Mrs. Patmore or just learn how things were done in times gone by, the Downton Experience gives Castle guests firsthand experience of life in a grand house.”

DRESSING DOWNTON EXHIBITION Do you love drop-waist dresses, elbow-length gloves and festive hats? Get your costume fix at an exhibition called “Dressing Downton,” now at the Richard H. Driehaus Museum in Chicago.

The exhibition, subtitled, “Changing Fashion for Changing Times,” is billed as a “costume chronicle” with period clothing and jewelry worn by servants as well as lords and ladies.

Over the next two years, the exhibition will move to Cincinnati’s Taft Museum of Art; The History Museum in South Bend, Indiana; Anaheim, California’s Muzeo Museum and Cultural Center; Nashville, Tennessee’s Cheekwood Botanical Gardens & Museum of Art; and finally St. Augustine, Florida’s Lightner Museum. Details at dressingdownton.com.

DROWN YOUR SORROWS OR HEAD OUT TO SEA You could drown your sorrows with a few stiff cocktails during a night on the town, as Lady Mary did with her beaus in London. If you prefer sipping Earl Grey or Darjeeling tea from a floral-patterned china teacup with a platter of scones and finger sandwiches, head to a hotel or tea shop.

If all else fails, take your cue from Violet, the Dowager Countess.

After learning she’d been removed from the board of the local hospital, she escaped her troubles with a cruise to France.

“As the Dowager Countess has taught us, there is nothing like a quick European getaway to regain one’s composure,” said Julie McCool, promoting Viking Ocean Cruises, whose ads have become a familiar part of watching Downton. ‘’Cruisers live in comfortable luxury, are cheerfully waited on day and night by a staff who lives on the lower decks, of course, and encounter beautiful examples of the imperial past as they travel. Why, it’s almost like being back at the Abbey!”

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at your leisure

Fusion Powered ITALIAN-JAPANESE CHEF AKIRA WATANABE REVEALS HIS SECRETS FOR CRAFTING Beautifully PIQUANT FUSION DISHES

A

kira Watanabe, the chef famous for fusing Japanese ingredients into Italian dishes, is proud when he talks about opening a second AWkitchen restaurant in Jakarta, at Plaza Indonesia.

Creating more than 50 dishes a year, the chef, who owns almost 30 restaurants, opened his first place in Indonesia at Plaza Senayan.

“My secret to success is having a great solid team-and fresh selected ingredients,” Akira says.

While the Plaza Senayan restaurant has many pizza options on the menu, the new restaurant offers more exotic innovations involving antipasti and pasta, as it targets upper-crust Jakartans and office workers near Menteng, Central Jakarta.

The Plaza Indonesia restaurant offers diners a sophisticated atmosphere, with yellow lights illuminating the dining area.

The interior emits a cheerful vibe of yellow, turquoise and orange, which all combine to create an ambiance matching Akira’s colorful menu.

On offer the day I visited were several signature items from the restaurant’s menu, including

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linguine lobster, tender Italian veal shanks prepared osso bucco and spaghettini in garlic oil with spicy cod roe and Japanese mushrooms.

There was also an Italian-Japanese fusion pasta called capellini Genovese with sea urchin, Black Angus beef tataki with soy truffle sauce and a classic Italian pannacotta pudding in berry sauce.

Akira arrived, sporting a black cap to secure his locks and wearing a chef’s uniform, and then escorted us to a cooking demonstration.

As the prep team arranged fresh shellfish, scallops and blue crabs, Akira showed us how to make fettuccine in Japanese mushroom cream sauce and his personal favorite, spaghettini pescatore with tomato cherries.

Watanabe’s Japanese upbringing was apparent when he began sauteing dried porcini mushrooms: As the aroma of the mushrooms arose, he carefully added a Balinese white wine and stirred gently.

As he finished the cream sauce (which took

Photos via awkitchen

WORDS Banyubening Prieta

At your leisure

barely eight minutes), he poured it over fettuccine cooked al dente and another scrumptious smell escaped.

“Seventy percent of the ingredients are imported. Many of them are sourced from Japan,” Akira told us. “We have more than 100 farmers in different prefectures, each focusing on different ingredients.”

A focus on produce always shines through.

Akira has published three books sharing AWkitchen’s secret recipes that all focus on the importance of vegetables.

A career of 25 years in the hospitality industry started when Akira took a job with Hasegawa Industries’ global dining section.

However, it was a curiosity for Itameshi, or Italian food, that brought him to Milan, where he studied for three years before landing a gig as the representative director of Art-Food International as well becoming the owner and chef of the Reins Group.

Akira opened his first AWkitchen in Nakameguro, Tokyo, in 2004, he said. “The first year was not good at all, because Japanese people were not used to it.”

He kept at it and prevailed: AWkitchen currently has nine branches in Japan and two in Jakarta.

Akira also owns several other restaurants, including a vegetarian shabu-shabu establishment, a sandwich shop and a pizzeria.

The 51 year old, who previously worked for famed restaurants such as Tableaux in Dainkanyama, Japan, as an executive chef, readied to make our spaghettini pescatore.

“This is my favorite dish, and I am always very careful when picking ingredients.”

As the chef started cooking the crab, shrimp, scallops and oysters for our second course, his demeanor quickly changed: The prep team forgot to leave a bowl of salt out and he called for help from his Japanese team.

It’s clear that Watanabe’s attitude inside and outside the kitchen is quite different. He is very strict when cooking but outgoing after work.

For example, he says he loves to play rock

music when hanging out with friends.

“My hobby may seem far from my kitchen ritual, but it actually shows similarities: Strong character.”

It’s the same with Italian and Japanese dishes, he adds: Different in style but always focusing on the importance of natural flavors.

As the team brought the salt, the chef sauteed anchovies with garlic, pouring a tomato sauce and shellfish broth.

Akira says that it was the Italian warm dip bagna cauda that became his most challenging innovation.

The original Italian dish is served with boiled or roasted vegetables, especially cardoon, carrot, peppers and artichokes, that are consumed in a similar manner to fondue.

“I am the first chef who served bagna cauda in Japan. It is probably the most famous bagna cauda in Japan today,” he says.

Finally, the seafood pasta was set to serve.

The chef finished his plating by putting the spaghettini and meticulously arranging the seafood on top of the pasta.

The presentation showed the contrast between the texture of the cooked hard-shell seafood in bright red and the soft texture of the spaghettini.

As he put his final creation on the table, everyone gathered to smell the aroma of crab, scallops and squid that blended harmoniously with the hot tomato sauce. Once again, only eight minutes were needed to create the dish.

The chef made preparing the courses look easy, although he doesn’t want to deter would-be cooks.

Selecting ingredients is the tough part, Akira says. “Everything else other than picking ingredients can be easily learned.”

Pasta House AWkitchen

by Akira Watanabe Plaza Indonesia Level 2 Telp. 02129924325 Instagram: @awkitchenjkt

Off the menu Contributor Banyubening Prieta sat down with Akira Watanabe after the launch of the chef’s latest restaurant. Here are excerpts of their interview.

Fave chefs?

Among his favorites, Akira cites the famed Nobuyuki Matsuhisa, founder and chef at the Michelin-starred restaurant Nobu as well as at Matsuhisa, which was named one of the Top Ten Restaurant Destinations in the world by The New York Times. Also on Akira’s short list are two famed chefs from the Bay Area in California: Alice Waters for her organic restaurant Chez Panisse in Berkeley, and Thomas Keller of French Laundry in Napa Valley.

Off days?

“I rarely have free time, but when I have I usually go to the gym–a minimum of four times a week. Other than that I play guitar. I love rock music.”

Why Indonesia?

“I appreciate friendship. It was because of a friendship with my partners of two years. I was convinced to open my restaurants in Jakarta. Indonesians have a culture similar to the Japanese.”

Any plans for expansion?

“We’re thinking to open another AWkitchen in Bali. We are thinking to create an exclusive AWkitchen that serves 30 people only.

The plan is to create a private dining experience.”

What’s the difference between AWkitchen in Japan and Indonesia?

“Here, I notice that people love spicy and salty food. So based on their tastes, I exclusively adjusted my menu to suit the Indonesian palate. For the Japanese, I know most of the people already love Japanese and Italian food, so it was not an issue.”

How important is a good back-of-the-house team?

“It is the second key, after ingredients. It is important to create a certain attitude in the kitchen–that is why I think it is important to also have Japanese chefs in my team. One works for AW Kitchen Plaza Senayan and the other works for AWkitchen Plaza Indonesia.”

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at your leisure

Disco

Inferno

Giorgio Moroder returns to Indonesia

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amed producer and electronic music pioneer Giorgio Moroder recently returned to Indonesia after last year’s successful show at Social House to play another rousing DJ set, this time at the Dragonfly club inside the Graha BIP building.

Local organizers Ismaya Live were once again responsible for the concert.

Combining his classic material with more-modern EDM (electronic dance music), Giorgio gave a set permeated by his legendary touch–and which received a rapturous reception by the crowd.

The club’s intimate setting was something that the producer/musician/innovator said he appreciated as much as the massive scale of his festival gigs.

“I like festivals but I like clubs too–as long as the audience goes with it.”

A trailblazer who was arguably one of the first musicians to inject electronic and disco flourishes into pop music, Moroder has a resume that most musicians would kill for.

The surprisingly spirited 75-year-old has worked with pop-culture icons such as Cher, The Who’s Roger Daltrey, Janet Jackson, Barbra Streisand, Elton John, Queen’s Freddy Mercury, David Bowie, Chaka Khan, Cheap Trick and Pat Benatar.

To put things in perspective, witness some of his collaborative biggest hit singles: Donna Summer’s “Hot Stuff” and “I Feel Love,” Kenny Loggins’ “Danger Zone,” David Bowie’s “Putting Out the Fire” and Blondie’s “Call Me.” Meanwhile, many of his albums, including From Here to Eternity (1977) and E=MC2 (1979) have been lauded

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as some of electronic music’s most influential records.

The Italian producer’s career, which began in the mid-1960s, is far from simply celebrating past glories.

More recently, he has worked with Daft Punk, a band whose sound was clearly influenced by Moroder, on their 2013 Grammy-winning record Random Access Memories, as well as with indie trio Haim, just to name a few.

He still sets his eyes on working with some of the biggest names in modern music. “I’d like to work with all the big names–Lady Gaga, Katy Perry, all those girls. Maybe I will, I don’t know yet,” he says, laughing.

Moroder even has time to release his own records, the latest being last year’s Deja Vu, which featured collaborations with Britney Spears, Kylie Minogue, and Charlie XCX. Throughout his career, Moroder has won 3 Academy Awards for best motion picture score or song, 4 Golden Globes and 4 Grammys and earned more than 100 gold and platinum records.

Some of his most famous works were for the movies Midnight Express, Top Gun, Superman III, Scarface, and Rambo III. He says that scoring a film is unique. “If you do a song for a movie, first it has to fit the movie, then you have to find the right single with the right image for the movie.

Cat People, the 1982 erotic thriller, offered a good illustration. “It was very difficult, very black. I needed a

Photos via dragonfly/ismaya LIve

WORDS MARCEL THEE

guy with an image like David Bowie.

Or, for example, Blondie’s ‘Call Me’ (for 1980’s American Gigolo), it was up tempo and fit the scene of the actors driving. The song worked well with the movie, the actors and the acting.”

Alas, Moroder hasn’t had a chance to listen to any Indonesian music, something that he said he planned to rectify the day after his Dragonfly gig.

He said that he has “plenty of time” to absorb some local sounds that might be incorporated into his music, as he did on “Forever Friends”, the song he wrote for the 2008 Olympics in Beijing, which was infused with Chinese instruments.

Despite his production credits–and the star treatment given to him by fan at Dragonfly–Moroder is not a paparazzi-hounded celebrity, a freedom he appreciates.

“I’m happy that people don’t recognize me on the streets. Tonight [at Dragonfly], maybe),” he says, adding that he is happy to keep the focus on the music.

“As long as I work,” Moroder says, smiling.

tasteBUD

Eat your

spinach A recipe for spanakopita

Words and photos Theodora Hurustiati

I

absolved my mother for squeezing a blob of chili sauce over this spanakopita–Greek spinach pie–and for saying that it reminded her of Indonesia’s martabak telur. At least she ate her greens and went so far as to call it enak (delicious). I think I’m entitled to give myself a few pats on the back after hearing such praise from a convinced carnivore who typically only appreciates Asian food! If I succeeded with my mom, you might want to try this recipe to entice members of your family into eating some spinach!

In its birthplace, spanakopita is usually served as snack, although it’s also common to see it served as a starter or as light lunch in restaurants, where it’s accompanied by salad and tzatziki yogurt/ cucumber sauce. Greeks make the pie crust using traditional savory pastry, while more-popular versions have flaky crust made from overlapping layers of paper-thin phyllo dough. If phyllo is too difficult to find in Indonesia, try substituting with lumpia wrappers and let me know how they turn out!

Serves 6-8 8 to 12 sheets of phyllo pastry 500g fresh baby spinach 1 200g leeks 1 100g spring onions 3 eggs 100g Feta cheese, crumbled 50g grated Kefalotyri (aged goat’s cheese), Pecorino Romano or

Parmesan 20g fresh dill or 2 teaspoons dried 10g fresh parsley (optional) Few mint leaves (optional) Salt Pepper 50g butter, melted 50g extra virgin olive oil and extra for sautéing

• Slice leek and onion into thin rounds, roughly chop spinach into smaller chunks and finely chop fresh herbs.

• Heat medium-low enough oil to cover bottom of a wide pan. Sweat leeks and onions until soft. Add few tablespoons of water if they brown too much. They should remain bright green.

• Add chopped spinach–in batches, if it doesn't fit in pan in one go. Season with salt and pepper and cook until about wilted and most of liquid released by spinach has evaporated.

• Transfer into large bowl and set aside to cool for 15 minutes before adding eggs, cheeses and the chopped herbs. Fold until just combined.

• Mix butter with oil. Brush a small amount onto 28-cm round pie tin. A square one with an equal volume would be ideal.

• Roll phyllo pastry out and keep covered with a damp kitchen cloth while you work or the paper-thin pastry will dry out and crumble into pieces.

• Assemble 8 to 12 layers of phyllo-slightly overlapping between each sheet-to cover bottom of pie tin. Let half of pastry hang over tin. Brush each layer with butter and oil.

• Pour filling in and fold hanging "flaps" of phyllo inwards to close the pie. Again, brush each layer with butter and oil. It seems like a lot of fat, but if you skip it, the bottom crust will turn soggy and the upper one chewy.

• Score pie surface with a knife into squares or diamond patterns. This will help portion pie once cooked without crumbling the crust.

• Bake in a preheated oven at 180°C for about 30 minutes or just until pastry is golden, flaky and crisp.

• Serve warm or at room temperature.

Jakarta-born chef Theodora Hurustiati, a 13-year resident of Udine, Italy, was the runner-up in the TV cooking program La Scuola – Cucina di Classe (The School: Classy Cooking).

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trend DIAL

Bottega Veneta Fall/Winter 2016 Women’s Collection

Le Sur-Mesure Hermés

Following up on their bespoke harnesses from 1837, Hermés is set to reintroduce the vocation of fashioning original objects this month. Bags, suitcases, garments, saddles, casings or furniture will all be made to order using the best materials and techniques. The brand plans to use wood, metal, cashmere, cotton and silk in hues ranging from extremely delicate to the gloriously bright. Hermés is offering their inhouse designers, artisans and engineers to create bespoke pieces resulting from a process of constant dialogue. Visit Hermés’ store in Pacific Place or the Grand Hyatt Hotel Jakarta for more info.

From Bespoke TO

choices, choices

Embrace your body with the long and lean silhouettes of Bottega Veneta’s Fall/Winter 2016 Women’s Collection. The series ranges from knits in different gauges, including long coats, cocktail dresses and pants, as well as bags featuring extensive use of nappa, shiny calf or crocodile leather. Bottega Veneta makes it all wearable, even though they use intricate techniques and embroidery, from needle-punched fabrics to irregular beading. Also check out their jewelry collection, featuring green stones set in sterling silver and antiqued gold for necklaces, bracelets, and earrings, paired with fluorite, jade, labradorite and malachite!

Rihanna x Manolo Blahnik

You thought Rihanna already had her plate full? After her new album launch, world tour and debut collection as creative director at Puma, she’s about to release a new collaboration, this time with iconic shoemaker Manolo Blahnik for his Spring 2016 collection. A long-time fan of Blahnik, Rihanna calls the new capsule collection called "Denim Desserts", featuring six pieces, ranging from strappy mules to sexy boots, all made with artisan embroidery, denim and sequins. Count down for this sexy release, available on May 5 in London, New York and Hong Kong.

Grace Coddington’s New Fragrance

Sonia Kashuk’s Knock Out Series

Craving some eye-catching designs to round off your makeup collection? Check out Sonia Kashuk’s “Knock Out Beauty” limited edition. Collaborating with artist Dana Louise Kirkpatrick, Kashuk has created a line that empowers women. Knock Out emerged as a theme when she fell in love with Dana’s artwork at Art Basel in Miami. The series features a range of iconic tools, lipsticks, eyeliners and makeup totes. Try the skin glow powder that is recommended by Sonia. “It is amazing–you don’t have to feel pressured to contour and highlight your face!” Go to soniakashuk.com for more.

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Legendary Vogue fashion editor Grace Caddington is launching an eponymous fragrance. This is a new project for Caddington, after stepping down as the magazine’s creative director.

According to Vogue, the fragrance offers a floral scent derived from Caddington’s love of roses. The aroma, which comes in a Fabien Baron-designed bottle with a custom cat-shaped cap based on her sketches, marks a new chapter for the flame-haired icon. The unique bottle is a result of a collaboration with Japanese fashion label Commes des Garçons.

Intrigued? Wait for its release on April 19. +Banyubening Prieta