Jplus 2016 04 10 lores

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Vol. 3 No. 21 I April 10 - 16 , 2016

ART of

COLLECTING

BUYING INDONESIAN ART IN hong kong, JAKARTA AND SINGAPORE

SEXY PINK GENIUS AT SHABU SHABU GEN

HOW TO STASH IT STYLISH PACKS, MINI-WALLETS

3-WHEEL ODYSSEY MALANG’S MEAN STREETS


Editor's note

Check List

take it slow What OUR CONTRIBUTOR Avi writes about below (Mark My Words) is slowness: Technology makes accessing the numinous (or delicious, in her case) painless, she says–but do we lose out when it’s easy to consume? I pondered the question when sampling several Tokaj wines from Slovakia this week (Talk of the Town, p3). Ambassador Michal Slivovic wove an impressive story about Tokaj, calling it the wine of kings and the king of wines. He spoke knowledgeably about his nation’s vineyard–and about the benevolent fungal infection that gives the wine its

unique sweetness. Later, I read that Tokaj grapes are sometimes picked by hand, one by one. While not everyone is an oenophile, it’s easy to appreciate the dedication of artisans, who also collect juice from the grapes in barrels as it falls, drop by drop. It’s also easy to appreciate the exquisitely rare Hide beef that our contributor Kevindra dined on at Shabu Shabu Gen (At Your Leisure, p14). Most Hide beef, widely regarded as Japan’s finest, comes from the offspring of single bull, Yasufuku-alleged to be perfect specimen of bovinity–and raised exclusively

in the province of Gifu. Expensive? Sure. But cultivated slowly and carefully, and not for mass production. In the case of art, however, the age of mechanical reproduction has been a boon. I love looking at books with images of paintings in far-flung museums that I would otherwise never see. Our cover focus (p6-9) takes aim at collectors–those who are attracted to art and who want to savor the original above all else. Wherever Sunday takes you, please go slowly. Savor it. Chris Razukas jplus@thejakartapost.com

mark my words

It’s about time IN PRAISE OF THE SLOW LIFE WORDS Avi Basuki

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COVER STORY Multi-million-dollar baby

WANDERLUST Exploring the Alila Seminyak

JPlus Team Editor Christian Razukas Art Director Budhi Hartono Graphic Designer Hengky Wijaya

I was browsing the Internet when a friend sent me an article about some kind of Silicon Valley-designed Internet-connected box that makes a glass of juice. For US$913 (Rp 12 million). Don’t be shocked. I’m a serious juicer. I had been contemplating whether to spend 4 million rupiah on a slow (natural) juicer or to just keep ordering my liquid detoxification from one of those expensive shops. A friend told me to do my cleanse the clean (mutih) way using kejawen, or traditional Javanese spiritual beliefs. It’s likely better–and certainly would be cheaper, as it comprises adhering to a strict diet of white rice and plain water for 24 hours on an auspicious day. My mind would definitely be clearer (even if it was only about what I would eat after the day had passed) and my third eye would start to see things differently. While I feel the need to flush out the bad, I don’t need to follow the kejawen way and get initiated as the next dukun (shaman) of my neighborhood. I’ll just gulp some colorful juices for a day. So yes, let’s just buy them. Maybe the makers of the $913 magic juice box can make me healthy. Their set-up comprises a WiFi-connected super juicer, which promises to extract the freshest raw juice imaginable from packaged fresh fruits or vegetable cuts. The machine won’t even function if it

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detects that the product is not as fresh as it could be. Even better, the machine takes care of washing the produce. It’s like having one of those AeroPress K-Cups that are popular in the West: Insert a little plastic container full of exquisitely prepared coffee into the machine, flip the switch and voilà: Espresso alla Italiana. But I’ve never been a fan of anything instant, especially if it has to do with what I eat. It’s one of the reasons I moved to Bali–to get fresh produce first hand, directly from the soil. (Or, let’s be honest, directly from the farmer. I’m not that much of a green thumb.) I like to see the shape of my food before I cook it. I’m a slow eater, slow cooker and slow swimmer. Sometimes in the heat even my brain gets slow. Slowness means I can water my garden, look at the sunset and wonder if my herbs are growing well. I can also grind my own espresso beans, too. Some American fast food chains started as mom-and-pop businesses, serving homemade burgers to families enjoying a Sunday meal after church. It was a slow process. Eventually, the idea to serve more food to more people became the main goal. Things started to get faster and less family oriented. Everything else got faster, too: Film became digital, snail mail became e-mail. Speed is supposed to make life easier, but it makes us value time differently. There are no more of those beautiful temp morts (pauses) in European cinema. It’s like George Lucas said when shooting Star Wars: Do it again–but faster, and more intense. Why are we so much in a hurry? Are we running out of time? How can anything be

enjoyed if we’re always rushing to the next thing? Slow life needs to move into the mainstream. Thankfully, it is. There’s now a fast food drive-in restaurant–for organic food–in the US. But let’s return to that expensive juice machine: What’s hippie and holistic has notso-slowly become instant. The original idea was to avoid industrialization, to become self-sustaining and to slow down. However, automation leads to accountants who dictate how to make a brand better. Products and customers grow distant and, before you know it, raw healthy natural foods become mass-marketed powders. Need an example? Just check out Soylent: The hacker-produced superfood nutrient shake that allegedly replaces every other form of nutrition. No drinking water, no eating anythingjust consume your superfood powder in liquid form and get back to work. I might be wrong. Maybe these inventions are the next great idea to better your life. Maybe they give a chance to those with not so much time (and not so much access to fresh products) to enjoy the goodness of the Earth. But to tell you the truth, I want to live in a place where I can buy my produce from the farmer who harvested it–and make my espresso with my beloved moka stove-top or electric coffee maker. I have time–and that you can never buy. Mark My Words shifts focus between fashion, food, parenting, technology and travel each week.

Marketing & Advertising Sales & Marketing Director Ady P. Pamungkas

ady.pamungkas@thejakartapost.com

Marketing Executive Faisal Ahmad

faisal@thejakartapost.com

@JPlusSunday

SundayJplus

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On the cover

"World Without a Sea" by Yudi Sulistyo, presented by ARDNT Location and photo courtesy of Art Stage Singapore Location Hotel Mulia Senayan Jakarta


Where to go, what to do DINE

LISTEN

SEE

One-night-only banquet

Remembering the Man from La Mancha

Indonesian heritage photojournalism

Two of Jakarta’s finest chefs are working together for a one-night-only dinner at the skyhigh Salt Grill restaurant at Altitude The Plaza in Central Jakarta. Customers will be able to enjoy a four-course banquet that tells of the culinary journeys of French chef Gilles Marx (of Amuz Gourmet Restaurant fine dining fame) and Salt Grill executive chef M.J. Olguera. The four courses will be served with matching L’Esprit De Bordeaux wines. When: April 28 Where: Salt Grill, Altitude The Plaza Info: 087880888108 or 087875564756

The embassy of Spain in Jakarta is organizing a baroque music concert featuring Spanish music group La Folia performing at St. Theresia Church in Menteng. The performance, titled “Angin Be Dingin”, is set to be held on April 19 as part of the group’s tour of Asia. On offer will be Renaissance and Baroque pieces that are thematically inspired by Spanish and Portuguese trade routes in Asia. There will also be a performance inspired by the fourth centenary observation of the death of the Miguel de Cervantes, author of Don Quixote, the founding work of Western literature. Admission is free.

When: Until May 5 Where: World Trade Center 2, South Jakarta Info: isaartadvisory.com

NOUN PROJECT

When: April 19 Where: Church St. Theresia, Menteng Info: @EmbEspIndonesia

Art enthusiasts searching for an aestheticallypleasing look at cultural history can check out the new “Indonesian Intangible Heritage” exhibition at the World Trade Center 2. The exhibit, presented by ISA Art Advisory, Permata Bank, Erasmus Huis and PT Jakarta Land, will be open to the public from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. until May 5. It shows the works of 10 photojournalists who are recipients of Permata Bank grants, such as Adhi Wicaksono, Deden Iman Wauntara and Dwi Prasetya.

talk of the town GIK LOOKS AT WOMEN IN CINEMA Grand Indonesia, Central Jakarta

Galeri Indonesia Kaya (GIK) celebrated National Film Day and Kartini Day recently with a retrospective look at the “roles” of actresses in Indonesian cinema. Held in collaboration with renowned thespian Reza Rahadian, the event saw a number of talented Indonesian actresses–such as Chelsea Islan, Cut Mini, Sita Nursanti and Dominique Diyose–delivering unique monologues to audiences. Accompanying was special ambient music composed by Aghi Narottama to create a sense of immersion. “We hope that this show can inspire women in Indonesia to keep on working,” Reza said.

AMBASSADOR INTRODUCES SLOVAK SPIRITS, WINES TO JAKARTA Menteng, South Jakarta

Michal Slivovic, the Ambassador of Slovakia to Indonesia, hosted at a dinner at his official residence on April 6, introducing wines and spirits from the Eastern European nation to a select crowd in Jakarta. Guests, who included oenophiles, diplomats and local wine distributors, were greeted with a traditional welcome offering of bread and salt and given a chance to share a glass of Bošácka slivovitz plum brandy with Slivovic. A dinner featured exquisite pairings with Slovak Alibernet and Dunaj dry red wines, as well as with three rare Tokaj dessert wines before finishing with a mellow Karpatske brandy and Tatratea, a powerful tea-based liquor of highland herbs extracts and pure mountain water.

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How

at your LeISure

We Eat (It’s Not Always Pretty) FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY PIONEER SHOWS FOOD FROM 36 COUNTRIES AROUND THE WORLD

So where does that leave Martin Parr, who has been snapping food portraits for 25 years? His new book Real Food features more than 200 slates of everyday meals and snacks from 36 countries. Why focus on food when everybody else is doing it and he is known for capturing ordinary people at work and play, many of them on holiday at the British seaside? “You can tell a lot about society, who we are and what we like doing, by looking at the food we eat,” he says in an interview. “As a subject matter, it’s quite revealing. It’s like a new social landscape so it’s been good to explore food all around the world. “I am showing food as it really is because we are surrounded by images in magazines where you see food looking glorious and beautiful, and we know that most people don’t surround themselves with food like that. It is like the propaganda of food sales.” (His daughter is the chef Ellen Parr, who collaborates with set designer Alice Hodge in events company, The Art of Dining.) Parr says he works quickly, taking just a few minutes to capture an image with a macro lens and a ring flash. For his first food book, British Food, published in 1995, he used a Nikon and shot on film. He has since moved on to a digital Canon. “Food photography is ubiquitous since I started it,” he says. “I was doing this in the days of film, when it was much more

difficult to photograph your food close up, whereas now you just whip your iPhone out and you can photograph everything. Parr’s work sometimes attracts controversy, with critics accusing him of snobbishness for his pictures of ordinary people at play. “I’m always amazed how controversial my images are,” he says. “I don’t know how or why this happens. “I am recording what’s there. Of course, what you are looking for are the ambiguities and contradictions of modern life, which you can find, particularly in England, all over the place. I am acutely aware of England because I have a love-hate relationship and I can express that, so it’s partly therapeutic.” Why love/hate? “Life is neither good nor bad. Modern life has many things that are wrong with it and many things that are terrific. Propaganda tends to be a one-sided view so I am looking for my own personal take, which often will be the expression of an ambiguity.” “I’m a food snob so I like good food, but I also like junk food. I even have a Big Mac from time to time. Do you not? Are you a food snob as well then? Are you? Then you are partly to blame for this food culture that we’ve got, which I’m trying, in a sense, to puncture.” Maybe, but this is a book I devoured. Real Food, by Martin Parr, with an introduction by Fergus Henderson, Phaidon, US$24.95.

off the menu Renowned int’l chefs arrive for Madrid Fusion Manila Madrid Fusion Manila, the three-day gastronomical event of the year, opened on April 7m with regional lunches, technical seminars, food tunnels, a trade exhibit and lectures by renowned chefs, many of whom have been crowned with the much-coveted Michelin stars. On hand were historian and archivist Antonio Sanchez de Mora; Fernando Perez Arellano of the two-Michelin star restaurant Zaranda; Jordi Butrón, who has been voted as Spain’s Best Pastry Chef; award-winning Kevin Cherkas of Kuka Restaurant in Bali; Leah Cohen of the much-celebrated New York restaurant Pig and Khao; Nurdin Topham of the one-Michelin star NUR in Hong Kong; Jungsik Yim, whose restaurant in Seoul has been voted one of the 50 best restaurants in Asia; Enrique Olvera, whose Pujol restaurant in Mexico City has been voted one of Latin America’s top 50 restaurants. Also present was Margarita Fores, who has been voted Asia’s Best Female Chef. With the theme “The Manila Galleon: East Meets West,” the chefs will conduct gastronomic conversations on such topics as flavors that have sailed across the seas, borrowed food, as well as the latest trends and techniques in today’s culinary world. — ANN/Philippine Inquirer

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Turkmenistan president lauds tea drinking in new book The leader of Turkmenistan has penned a book on the spiritual and health benefits of tea, adding to the long list of publications attributed to the eccentric president. State media in the ex-Soviet state reported that President Gurbanguly Berdymukhamedov’s latest publication, called Tea: Medicine and Inspiration, was a “gift” to the Turkmen people which celebrated tea’s impact on their philosophy and world view. “Every Turkmen knows there is nothing tastier than tea brewed in water from a mountain stream and boiled on an open fire in a traditional teapot,” one passage reads. Berdymukhamedov, a former dentist who came to power in 2006, has authored several books including works of poetry, a seven-volume encyclopedia on local medicinal plants, a biography of his father and a book about horses bred in Turkmenistan. His latest book, unveiled in front of ministers, cultural figures and students in the capital Ashgabat, was “laced together by the unbreakable bond of eras and generations, the historic and modern Turkmen way of being in which tea-drinking traditions have special place”, state media reported. — AFP

PHOTOS VIA BLOOMBERG

WORDS Richard Vines, Bloomberg


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cover Focus

Art on stage IN SINGAPORE

& JAKARTA

AFTER MANY SOLD-OUT SHOWS DURING THE MOST RECENT ART STAGE SINGAPORE, organizers are FIXING TO BRING THE EVENT TO JAKARTA WORDS Banyubening Prieta

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PHOTOS VIA ART STAGE SINGAPORE

L

orenzo Rudolf, the founder of Art Stage Singapore, says Indonesia has Asia’s largest art scene after China, although the nation is plagued by a lack of infrastructure to expose its artwork. Running one of the biggest art fairs in Singapore for the last six years, Lorenzo says that it's time to put his eggs in another basket: Indonesia. He’s planning the inaugural Art Stage Jakarta, slated to run from Aug. 5 to 7 at the Sheraton Grand Jakarta Gandaria City. “Indonesia has an important position in Southeast Asia,” Rudolf said. “It has an outstanding, big art scene. However it is mainly a mainland scene.” Boasting a stable market, many interactive collectors and a scene with a long history; Indonesia can be a prominent player in an arena demanding that shows and curators be top notch. Rudolf, who previously launched Art Basel Miami, said that the


cover Focus

In Singapore, the reception was very good. All Indonesian galleries were sold out. It means that every gallery sold 80 percent of the artworks they showcased. presence of just a few galleries, museums and exhibitions was not enough to put Indonesian local artwork under the international spotlight. With Art Stage entering Indonesia, Lorenzo said it was time to expose local artists through the fair, which he said would serve as the world’s unique window on the richness and diversity of contemporary Indonesian art. “Art Stage Jakarta will not be a copy of Singapore. The event will bring Indonesia to international context and to bring the world to Indonesia,” he said. Organizing two big art fairs in one year may be tricky, but the former collector said that the positioning between Singapore and Jakarta is different. “Singapore is the melting pot, but the market is not as big as Indonesia. Art Stage Jakarta will be selective, smaller–boutiquelike and really focus on a show that puts Indonesia in an international context in an exclusive level.” Art Stage Jakarta plans to present 50 galleries and around 500 artworks. Fair Director Leo Silitonga was upbeat. “Jakarta is the new top art city in Southeast Asia, fueled by our progressive and vibrant contemporary art scene,” Leo, formerly of Bazaar Art Jakarta, said. It's a sentiment shared by Bazaar Art Jakarta 2016 fair director Vivi Yip, who said in an e-mail that the Indonesian market remains lucrative for international art-fair operators to create ventures, despite a recent slowdown driven by economy volatility and national sentiment. SUCCESS IN SINGAPORE Leo said that Indonesia was Southeast

Asia’s leading center for art production as well as collecting–something given proof by the recently concluded sixth edition of Art Stage Singapore, where Indonesian galleries and artists fared exceptionally well. “In Singapore, the reception was very good. All Indonesian galleries were sold out. It means that every gallery sold 80 percent of the artworks they showcased.” Art Stage Singapore attracted more than 40,500 visitors, welcoming respected art professionals and leading collectors from Australia, Indonesia, Malaysia, the Philippines, Singapore and Vietnam. Visitors included celebrity auctioneer Simon de Pury, architect Rem Koolhaas, and US artist Joan Jonas, who represented the US Pavilion at the Venice Biennale 2015. There were also renown buyers such as Beligum-based collector Alain Servais and Japan-based collector Daisuke Miyatsu. On sales, Sakurado Fine Arts reached a peak with a US$1.2-million sale for Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama. Meanwhile, Indonesian gallery ROH Projects also sold works by Syagini Ratna Wulan for $30,000. Other sales were made by Bangkokbased Number 1 Gallery, which had a sell-out show with Thai artist Kittisak Thapkoa totaling S$60,000, and Singaporebased Sundaram Tagore Gallery, which booked the sale of South Korean artist Chun Kwang Young for US$175,000, two Steve McCurry prints for $42,000 each and Singaporean artist Jane Lee for $33,000, among others. With 25 years of experience, Rudolf says that developing emerging scenes is more challenging, especially when compared to

the US or China. However, Rudolf said that he was convinced that Indonesia offered good consistency for collectors. “Seeing Indonesia’s big potential and assessing the infrastructure weakness, we believe it is our role to support the community. [It was the] same situation when I did Art Basel Miami.” The 56-year-old Swiss art dealer said that he was regarded as a crackpot when launching Art Basel Miami. However, he said that he could see that the community of artists was big and the collecting scene was strong in Miami, drawing a parallel to contemporary Indonesia. “You have the community to develop this. This is a huge potential, but it has a lot to do with the community. You can only do this together. The community should have the same vision and goal to help the scene itself,” Rudolf said. CANNIBALIZATION AND COMPETITION Leo says that it is not likely that Art Stage Jakarta would cannibalize Art Stage Singapore. “It is logical to think that we won’t have [the event] too close to Art Stage Singapore. It will not clash and it is not a competition. The concept and the theme will be totally different.” He added that while Art Stage Jakarta

is slated to be held in the same month as Bazaar Art Jakarta–the nation’s largest art fair–the content and focus of his event will be different. “For now, we are still scrutinizing our concept and our team is still helping the process of registration for the galleries. So far, the reception has been good,” Leo said. For Vivi, the road to Singapore goes through Jakarta. “Art fairs in Singapore rely heavily on Indonesian collectors and artists for sustainability,” Vivi said. "Once we have our government support in term of clear regulations, Indonesia will be unstoppable.” On competition, Vivi is not overly concerned. “There has been a plan about an art fair in Bali, too. Singapore has successfully positioned itself as art hub in the region because it has clear regulations and other supporting factors; next year they will host another international art fair. So in 2017 we will see four art fairs in January alone.” She continues. “Jakarta can host two art fairs provided the time is spread nicely to give galleries and artists enough time for their preparation in order to participate. Ideally an event organizer should have a clear understanding of their tenants and visitors: Two crucial factors in the business that feeds them. A prudent and wise approach will result the best for everyone–and especially for the art market in Indonesia.”

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THE COMPLEXITIES

ART COLLECTING of

Words Sebastian Partogi

A

Sold for US$4.3 million: “Ali Sadikin Pada Masa Perang Kemerdekaan” (Ali Sadikin during the Independence War)

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Scenes from an exhibition (photos above, left): Andra Semesta at Cemara6

JPlus April 10, 2016

PHOTOS VIA SOTHEBY, CEMARA 6, BEN GAMAL

MAKING SENSE OF THE RECORD-BREAKING AUCTION OF AN INDONESIAN PAINTING

painting by Hendra Gunawan sold for a staggering HK$33.34 million (US$4.3 million) on April 3, including the hammer price and buyer's premium–underscoring just how lucrative– and how complex-the world of collecting and art sales can be. The auction of “Ali Sadikin Pada Masa Perang Kemerdekaan” (Ali Sadikin during the Independence War) at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Modern and Contemporary Asian Art Evening Sale, garnered a record-breaking amount for one of Hendra’s works. The painting, given by the artist decades ago to Ali, who remains one of Jakarta’s most beloved governors, saw its value soar–primarily due to its ownership. The Hendra Gunawan/Ali Sadikin connection offers one example of the many factors influencing a painting’s value. To make sense of the sale–and of how a newbie can get started–JPlus sat down with local art collectors, critics and curators to learn more. Here’s what we found out.


cover Focus

Three paintings by Andra Semesta currently on display at Cemara6 (

BREAKING IN “Indonesia has already had a long history of art collecting,” says Vivi Yip, the fair director of the upcoming Bazaar Art Jakarta, the nation’s largest art show. “The collectors are already mature by now.” According to Vivi, who is also an art dealer and the owner of the Vivi Yip Art Room, Indonesians top their Southeast Asian peers in terms of numbers. Local aficionados are also buying works made by artists of different nationalities, in contrast to their peers elsewhere, who typically prefer the works of local artists, she adds. It’s something Vivi’s attributes to Indonesia’s long tradition of visual arts. “Collectors expand by exploring different types of artwork created by artists from different nationalities.” Motivations for buying or selling a piece, though, differ from person to person. “Some do it to decorate their houses, some for pure aesthetic appreciation, while some do it as an investment,” Vivi said. “These categories often overlap. Meanwhile, people who collect paintings exclusively for investment or sales are art dealers and galleries”. Some collectors like to sell their paintings to make a profit, while others simply want to fund the purchase of newer pieces, she adds. “A collector’s decision to sell their paintings can be propelled by a change of taste or the desire to buy better paintings,” Vivi says. “Once you immerse yourself in the art world, you can never stop. You only get better and develop an expertise in that field.” People, however, should do their homework before jumping into collecting, Vivi adds. “You need to be a genuine visual arts lover first before you venture into art investment. It motivates you to explore the field out of your own interest, without being dictated to by concerns about return on investment all the time.” HISTORY AND AESTHETICS A good place for a newbie collector to start is with an understanding of art history and aesthetic theory. “An artwork’s economic value is tied to its aesthetic value. Expensive artworks aren’t produced by mediocre artists,” critic Eddy Soetriyono said during a recent seminar on art investment at the Cemara 6 gallery and museum in Menteng, Central Jakarta. Exposure to art history and theory can help a collector can develop their taste to differentiate which paintings are worthy and which are not. Going to many exhibitions is a good place to start, Vivi says. “The art world is so arbitrary, which has to do with one’s instincts and intuition. This is why exploration is essential.” Eddy adds that an artist’s importance, which sets the fundamental value of their artwork, can also be influenced

): Kanye West–The Life of Pablo, David Bowie–Blackstar, The Beatles

by how they break local artistic boundaries, as judged by art critics and academics. Take, for example, Edward Hopper’s Nighthawks (1942), currently in the collection of the Art Institute of Chicago. The painting, which depicts the existential loneliness of New Yorkers, has grown in critical importance as other artists found inspiration in it, which has led to a greater financial appreciation of all of Hopper’s works. “As collectors, we are challenged to predict which artworks will define an era,” Wiyu, another art collector said. Acquiring pieces for about 15 years, Wiyu used as example his purchase–for less than Rp 1 million (US$73.31)–of a piece by Christine Ay Tjoe in 2000. Few wanted to buy the Bandung painter's works when she first started, fearing the pieces’ dark black-and-white lines. Now, her works are exhibited in galleries internationally. Christine’s most expensive painting has been valued at more than Rp 7 billion. Wiyu said galleries such as the Selasar Sunaryo Art Space in Bandung, West Java, as well as the ROH project in Jakarta, were good places to go when hunting for cuttingedge, emerging Indonesian artists. SETTING PRICES Vivi says understanding how a piece’s value is set is one way for a collector to avoid the manipulation that sometimes happens at auctions. “You have to be really careful when gauging an artwork’s value. If a painting’s price is high because it has been fixed [artificially], for example, you might suffer from a serious loss, once the price slumps,” Vivi said. And slumps happen all the time, Eddy said. Prices spike up and down due to speculation and some works cannot stand the test of time. Eddy and Wiyu said separately that price manipulation and speculation also resulted from a lack of formal study on the history of Indonesia’s visual arts: Collectors in Indonesia are sometimes guided by Western art history, which is not always applicable. Vivi said prices should be gauged based on criteria such as how a piece reflects contemporary issues, the techniques used and the length of time needed to produce an artwork. External factors such as prior ownership, as in the case of the Ali Sadikin auction, are quite different from other methods previously used to determine a painting’s value. “There was also a popular method to measure an artwork’s value, applicable to paintings only, called the ‘centimeter system’, which literally calculated price based on the physical size of a painting,” Vivi said. However, learning about the academic side of visual arts is not enough. Vivi suggested that collectors also learn about the business, recommending The Value of Art: Money, Power, Beauty, written by renowned art dealer and market

expert Michael Findlay, as well as websites such as artsy. com and artasiapacific.com. SPOTTING FAKES On art forgery–a common problem in Indonesia, Vivi said that another in-depth article needed to be written. However, she did offer some advice. Check to who previously owned a painting, look for documentation or certificates pertaining to that artwork and verify its authenticity with at least three sources, such as a painter’s family member, a reputable institution and a reputable collector.

VISUAL ARTS HAVEN

Part of this article is based on a seminar titled “Art for Investment”, facilitated by Eddy, in Andra Semesta's conjunction with the launching of Carly Rae Jepsen's E.MO.TION the Jakarta Pauperum School of Art and Culture on March 31. The event was held at the iconic Cemara 6 gallery and museum. The gallery, founded by prominent Indonesian feminist intellectual Toeti Heraty N. Roosseno in 1993, comprises a main exhibition hall, a backyard and a cafe. It offers frequent cultural activities such as discussions, video art presentations, performances and poetry readings, as well as lectures and seminars. While a permanent collection includes pieces owned by Toeti Heraty, an exhibition by artist Andra Semesta titled "Peleburan Rupa, Nada, Kata" (The Fusion of Visuals, Tone and Words) will end on April 11. Andra creates abstract paintings inspired by the music of various legendary and contemporary musicians from diverse genres, including Bob Dylan, The Velvet Underground, Kanye West and Joanna Newsom. Meanwhile, the Pauperum School offers courses and workshops on arts and cultural studies, visual arts theory and practice, creative process, art market and investment as well as intellectual property rights for the public, collectors and art lovers. cemara6galeri.wordpress.com

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Ride on the wild side in

Malang IF YOU PLAN TO STUDY THE ORIFICES OF TRUCK EXHAUST SYSTEMS FOR AN ENGINEERING DEGREE, THIS IS WHERE TO START WORDS Duncan Graham

H

ere are three things you won’t find in Indonesia: A Javan tiger. Unsweetened coffee–even when you’ve stressed pahit (or plain) and the waitperson has nodded vigorously. Or a fat becak (pedicab) driver. But this slimming suggestion won’t be featured in women’s magazines. “That’s right, you never get overweight,” said Tukiran who at 78 claims to be the oldest becak driver in Malang, East Java. “It’s a job that really keeps you fit. I’ve never been sick.” As proof he showed his calf muscles, worth admiring despite being of more interest to a vascular surgeon. In the principles of honest journalism, but to the grief of the Quit lobby; it has to be disclosed that Tukiran’s recipe for longevity includes nurturing asphaltcoated lungs. He smokes the coarse hand rolled kretek clove cigarettes. These are so lethal that–unlike handguns–they’re banned in the US. However, if the models in smoke ads

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wanted to confront real danger, they’d clamber out of their gull-winged Mercedes and fly through the traffic in a Malang becak. Unlike rickshaws, invented about 150 years ago with the rider alongside, the pedicabs in the East Java city have the passenger in front. Designers call this the “tadpole” model. It’s more efficient than the sidecar version–and can squeeze through narrow lanes. Training as a health and safety officer is not needed to know that in any collision the passenger will be the human bumper, or if rammed from behind, an instant projectile. If your dream is to be a space explorer, this is your moment of glory before gore. There are positives. Becak are pollution free and next to noiseless, apart from the grunts of the driver. For those too poor to have a home, a becak can serve as an abode. Passengers get to spot potholes before the driver and brace for the shock, though there’s nothing to hold onto-unless you are

PHOTOS BY ERLINAWATI GRAHAM

wanderlust


wanderlust

riding with your beloved. Bench seats are designed for two slim-hipped pre-teens, not wide-bottomed foreigners. If love is in the air, travel at night in the rain–wheels hissing through puddles–with a plastic curtain windshield. To suggest the material is waterproof would be a misprint, but the joy is that passengers can see out, well just, and others can’t see in. As this is a family magazine we’ll go no further along this road, just leave the direction to your imagination. Despite the obvious hazards, Tukiran claims he’s never had an accident. He calls the becak that he owns “Sabar” meaning patience, tolerance or calm. A splendid motto for preservation when the steel fourwheelers jostling for the same road space drive to discredit these ancient Javanese qualities. If readers get the impression Tukiran is arrogant, then this story needs a rewrite. His title of Becak Opa (Grandpa Pedicab) was bestowed by his mates on the corner of the alun-alun (town square) and he only laughingly acknowledged the rank. Perhaps he blushed. We’ll never know. Almost eight decades of exposure to sun and smog, rain and dust have turned his skin near to buffalo brown. If lucky he’ll earn Rp 50,000 (US$3.70) a day starting at 7

a.m. and finishing around 4 p.m. He’s competing with around 2,000 others and a boom in privately-owned motorcycles, so fares are getting rare. A becak driver plays the waiting game. His younger mates have handphones with subscribers on speed-dial to regularly ferry kids to school or maids to market. The elderly and disabled reckon they’re handy because this public transport is easy to access. Loads too big for motorbikes and too small for pick-ups are also part of the business. The other threat is the bentor (motorized pedicab) cobbled from old motorbikes and becak cut in half and crudely welded together. “The problem is that there’s no front brake,” said Suwoho, 38, one of the younger bentor drivers. “The police say they’re illegal if unregistered and can only be used outside the city. We have to play a cat-and-mouse game.’ If so the feline must be well fed. While talking to a group of drivers and assorted hangers on, including cigarette hawkers and ladies of the night on the day shift, police cars cruised past. No-one jumped into drains. Today the cops were displaying a perfected blindness to minor malfeasance by those too poor for a shakedown. Suwoho doesn’t own his motorized second-hand threewheeler–he’s paying off the Rp 800,000 (US$ 60) loan at Rp 100,000 a month–if he gets enough customers. “It’s no good if people are stingy,” he said, resigned to reality. “What I earn depends on the blessings of God.” Becak and bentor don’t have meters so the cost has to be negotiated. That’s a skill mastered by the drivers though not easily learned by outsiders, particularly tourists. The becak men know they’re heading down a no-through road. Tukiran started pedalling when he was 12 and hasn’t stopped since. His pop was also in the trade, but his two sons have found other jobs. The story of Jakarta authorities briefly cleaning up the capital by dumping thousands of becak in the ocean is well known. Less understood is that Yogyakarta has spruced up its becak to make them tourist attractions. “This work is only for those who don’t have another job and who left school early,” said Suwoho. But when shown pictures of a new design being explored in the US for Asia (see story opposite), he urged that the idea be introduced to the city mayor.

Reinventing

the wheel Catapult Design, based in Denver, Colorado, has won a US$340,000 (Rp 4.5 billion) one-year contract from the Asian Development Bank (ADB) to “redesign the existing rickshaw into a modern pedicab”. Project team leader Bradley Schroeder calls himself a “bicycologist”. He’s written a book about cycling and studied pedicabs in 11 countries. “I’ve worked quite a bit in Indonesia,” he told JPlus. “The project would be applicable in many cities. I believe the status of the car is declining among the younger generation. “Take Bandung for example. The mayor [architect Ridwan Kamil] is very focused on creating a liveable city and managing traffic. Jakarta is a really tough place because of the street sizes and the national and local politics. Medan [North Sumatra] has a long way to go. “Catapult will also make 60 prototype vehicles and test them in Kathmandu and Lumbini (the birth place of Buddha) in Nepal with a further ADB grant of $150,000. “It’s important to note that the prototype cost will be significantly higher than production costs. So a simple division does not represent the true cost of the manufactured vehicle once in production.” Half the pedicabs will be pedal powered costing around US$750, the rest assisted by an electric motor. The pedicabs, made of aluminium with an enclosed drive train, will be lighter; the GPS touchscreen could also be used for advertising. “The design will be open source,” said Schroeder. “This means that any manufacturer can use the ideas without violating copyright.”

JPlus JPlus

April 10, 2016 11


wanderLUST

Background Opening on October 1, 2015; the Alila Hotel Seminyak is the fifth and newest of Alila’s Balinese properties. The beachfront resort, designed by Singapore-based architecture firm URBNarc, is the first in Indonesia to win the highest certification from EarthCheck, the world’s leading scientific benchmarking, certification and advisory group for travel and tourism.

Where Is it? Located in the heart of Bali’s trendy Seminyak area, the Alila enjoys gorgeous natural beachfront surroundings and upscale town destinations. The resort is only 20 minutes from Ngurah Rai International Airport and Denpasar.

Room Rundown Deluxe rooms and superior rooms are both 46 square meters. The deluxe is perfect for a couple’s getaway, while the superior can be used for families wanting to soak up local culture. Both offer king-sized beds, although the superior rooms have an option of two separate twin beds and an additional choice of connecting rooms for those with bigger families. The resort’s five different suites range from 60 to 177 square meters. The Deluxe Garden, Deluxe Ocean, Alila Ocean and Club suites each come with a shower and a bathtub, while the Beach Suite offers two showers and one bathtub. The Penthouse is 811 square meters and offers three king-size beds, three sofa beds, three showers and three bathtubs. Inside is a living room, a dining room and a kitchen. It has a spacious outdoor terrace with a lavish 18-square-meter private pool, sundeck and entertainment area. General facilities include complimentary WiFi, 40-inch LCD televisions with satellite channels, air conditioning, mini bars, coffeeand tea-making facilities, bath amenities and an in-room safe.

Stay Rooms are housed in four separate buildings, each in a contemporary style and designed as usable spaces for artisanal living. Rooms are designed to maximize views and are equipped with sliding doors, wide balconies and sunshading screens that let guests embrace the outdoors. Customized lamps with wooden batik blocks add a Balinese flavor.

Dine The Restaurant offers a Pan-Asian menu in an open-kitchen concept on the beachfront. a full bar also serves fresh juices, a large selection of teas and offers an elaborate barista station. Breakfast includes fresh daily baked breads, pastries, and traditional Western and Asian breakfast selections. Lunch and dinner menus feature

What’s It Like? The resort is all about beautiful views, with oceanic and sunset vistas provided for all guests. Inside is a blend of contemporary architecture mixed with vertical greens, wall-hugging plants, green roofs and landscaped terraces. Corridors, lobbies and public spaces use ocean breezes for natural ventilation. Overall design is inspired by traditional Balinese family compounds.

PHOTOS VIA ALILA SEMINYAK

Alila Hotel Seminyak

an Asian noodle bar and a grill and rotisserie. Beach Bar offers signature cocktails and locally-inspired small finger foods. Live music sets the mood along with a finemixology service. Opening hours are 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Special offers include Two2Tango, available daily from 5 to 7 p.m., during which guests can enjoy specially-paired canapés and cocktails, and Pig Out on Saturdays from 4 p.m. It allows guests to enjoy spit roast pig, steamed buns and two-for-one beers. Down to Business MICE facilities include indoor venues that can be configured for boardroom-style meetings and theater-style gatherings. An openair terrace and event lawns are available for grander-scale events such as lavish banquets and cocktail parties for up to 500 guests. Take Five The 752-square-meter Spa Alila Seminyak was named in Bali Bible Indonesia’s “Must Spa List to Experience in Bali for 2016”. Treatments blend Asian healing techniques with age-old beauty recipes and make use of fresh, natural, quality ingredients. Local therapists are trained in anatomical physiology, massage, meditation and services. Spa features private treatment rooms, a hair spa, a reflexology lounge and a dedicated manicure and pedicure lounge. Treatments vary from Signature Massage, with therapeutic techniques such as lomilomi, to its Champagne and Berry Bath. Open from 9 a.m. to 11 p.m. View The Alila Hotel Seminyak is the place to go for a luxury getaway in Bali. A secret garden in the middle of Seminyak. Natural views on are unparalleled. Services are award winning and high quality. A unique experience.

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Highlights Beautiful views, top services, and intense privacy and comfort in the middle of Seminyak. Recently launched 90-minute yoga classes are available, conducted by Santi Purnamasari, an advanced practitioner of Ayurveda, anatomy, physiology, meditation and the six purification techniques of shatkarma. Rooms 240 rooms, including an 811 square meter, threebedroom penthouse. Price Starting at US$295 for superior rooms off peak to $4,985 for the penthouse during peak season. Contact Jl. Taman Ganesha No. 9 Petitenget, Kerobokan Bali, Indonesia Phone: +623613021888 Fax: +623613022888 seminyak@alilahotels.com ✓ 1 RESTAURANT ✓ 2 BARS ✓ ROOM SERVICE ✓ WIFI ✓ SPA ✓ 5 INFINITY POOLS ✓ 24-HOUR GYM ✓ WEDDING SERVICE ✓ KIDS CLUB ✓ EVENT CENTER ✓ LIFESTYLE BOUTIQUE ✓ BABYSITTING SERVICE


a la Mode

Stylish grown-up backpacks CHOOSE PREMIUM MATERIALS AND PAIR THEM WITH MAXI DRESSES FOR THAT TRENDY LOOK Words Alyssa Woo, Straits Times (ANN)

Women’s Wallets

Are Getting Super-Tiny BAGS ARE SHRINKING AND FORCING WALLETS TO SHRIVEL WITH THEM. JUST ASK MICHAEL KORS

PHOTOS VIA BLOOMBERG

WORDS Kim Bhasin, Bloomberg

Black leather backpack with shearling flap, $179, Topshop This structured backpack with just the right amount of slouch may have a slightly more casual feel, but it is still appropriate for the office. The navy blue shearling flap adds a fancy touch to an otherwise plain bag.

Waterfall X leather backpack in light beige, S$450, Rabeanco This leather backpack with a drawstring closure has the perfect neutral hue that goes well with anything. Try matching this with a grey dress or top.

Women’s wallets are shrinking. No, that’s not a metaphor for the amount of cash they’re toting around. Their physical wallets are getting smaller. They’re slimming down because women are buying more compact handbags, and people just don’t need to lug around as many cards or thick wads of cash. Fashion trends are pushing shoppers toward sleek, crossbody bags and itsy-bitsy satchels; with phones taking over the role of such physical items as membership cards, loyalty cards, business cards, and even credit cards and cash, there’s no need or desire for big, bulging wallets. This means a shift toward more petite wallet designs: ziparound pouches, thin billfold styles, little leather card cases, and so on. Historically, women’s wallets haven’t seen much change. In fact, most small leather goods take a back seat to their larger, more visible brethren. They’re not presented frontand-center in retail stores and are often buried in the accessories tab at online shops. Wallets just aren’t very glam. They spend most of the time wedged somewhere next to a person’s keys, gum, lotion, and lipstick. Handbags, meanwhile, are overhauled each season, with flashy new hardware and creative silhouettes. These useful tools have, for the most part, followed a pragmatic formula: long, rounded rectangles with a zipper or a flap. Now such wallets are being converted to full-on clutches. Many designers make sure to add optional chains or wrist stra As to wallets so they can be carried around on their own. One particularly popular tactic is a carry-all tote—for makeup, workout gear, flats—with a teeny zip pouch or wallet stashed away, allowing for an easy switch to a de

Black pebbled backpack, $69.90, Mango This polyurethane bag may be in a fail-safe colour, but it is far from boring, thanks to its interesting pebbled texture.

PHOTOS VIA ANN/STRAITS TIMES

What options are there for stylish, grown-uplooking backpacks? The latest fashion trend is not about what hangs on your arm, but what is on your back–the practical backpack is back in vogue. No longer limited to just students and travellers, this season’s backpacks are classy, work-appropriate and go with any outfit. Look to the supermodels: Karlie Kloss paired a tan leather backpack with a casual maxi dress and flat sandals, while Cara Delevingne matched her chic namesake backpack (with British fashion brand Mulberry) with a leather jacket and sneakers. Bella Dan, chief designer for Hong Kong fashion handbag brand Rabeanco, says: “The best way is to pair a backpack with a maxi dress instead of denim jeans, as the latter can look too preppy.” Here are some tips on what kind of backpacks to look for: Opt for premium materials such as leather and suede, or leather- looking bags. Canvas bags are hardy and practical, but not as stylish. Avoid bags that have too many embellishments or zippers as they can make the bag look cluttered and complicated. Choose a backpack that is structured. Backpacks with thin straps are more elegant than those with thick straps as the straps will not interfere with your outfit.

facto clutch if necessary, said Jaime Cohn-Barr, an editor at fashion-trend forecasting firm WGSN. Fashion’s bigwigs have noticed and adjusted accordingly. John Idol, chief executive officer of Michael Kors, referred to the phenomenon last week in a conference call with analysts. At Kors, he said, “much smaller” wallets are selling faster than larger ones. Kors sells all sorts of wallets, from long, continental designs to mini-card holders and smartphone wristlets. Idol pointed to a two-year trend in which consumers have veered toward smaller handbags. “Money pieces now are getting smaller because—again— as more things end up on your phone, you need less things in your wallet,” said Idol. “So that’s just a fact.” That also gives Kors a chance to upsell its customers. Shoppers downsizing their bags have no choice but to find a correspondingly tiny wallet that will fit. Following the logic farther, that upselling is necessary: Smaller bags (and wallets) are cheaper, so stores have to push sales of additional items, instead of selling just one large, big ticket, $600 satchel.

JPlus

April 10, 2016 13


at your leisure

An exploration

Of Beef DINING AT SHABU SHABU GEN

WORDS and photos Kevindra P. Soemantri

“I

t’s not red! It’s sexy pink!” said one member of a young couple when looking at the display window of Shabu Shabu Gen at the Plaza Building in Jakarta’s SCBD. On offer was a selection of high-end beef with marbling that looked like the branches of a river on a map. “This is Saga–rib eye, grade A4; and that is US Prime–our lowest ranked here,” said the restaurant’s beef chef. (I wouldn’t call him a butcher, since there was no chopping or de-boning going on.)

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His gaze as steely as a surgeon's, the chef cut meat with an automatic slicer into pieces barely a millimeter thick. Cut any thinner, and the beef would be shredded. Cut any larger, and it wouldn’t be good for shabu shabu, the famed Japanese hotpot dish of beef and vegetables. Shabu Shabu Gen’s local outpost is the latest genius creation from the Singapore-based Les Amis group. The original is in Singapore’s Shaw Center, standing alongside the group’s flagship restaurants, Les Amis and Aoki, whose chef Kunio Aoki came up with an idea to serve the Lion City’s gastronomes fine shabu shabu in 2009. The dish has long been a favorite in Jakarta, as evinced by the opening of Kahyangan Shabu Shabu in the 1970s at Wisma Nusantara, one of Indonesia’s first skyscrapers. The venue has evolved, of course. Wisma Nusantara is part of the complex that includes the Pullman Jakarta hotel, which was formerly the Nikko Hotel and before that the President Hotel. Kahyangan Shabu Shabu at the Pullman is excellent, so it was with curiosity that I ventured to Shabu Shabu Gen, which shares a location with VUE 46-another Les Amis venue. The only separation was a very wide bar and a very kind greeter. Chef Aoki was not on hand the day I visited the restaurant; he’s said to be busy preparing all the Singaporean restaurants under his supervision for secret visits from Michelin inspectors, as the Lion City is set to get its own Michelin red guide in just three months. However, Aoki’s No. 2, Komiyama Minoru, proved to be charming. “Today you will experience a journey of beef,” Chef Komiyama said. “We will start from the lower-grade US Angus to Kagoshima to Saga and Kagoshima, Grade A5, and then end with Hida.” Cattle from Kagoshima prefecture are raised under the sun in natural surroundings of a warm tropical

island, while the cattle from Saga enjoy a more subtle climate, beautiful water and pristine air. Hida beef, however, is in a class by itself. It comes from a black-haired Japanese cattle breed, raised in Gifu, in snow and skiing country, where the weather is colder. Almost white in marbling, the beef has an exquisite taste, with a rarity that also gives it an exquisite price tag. Looking at the Hida beef was itself an experience. Each slice had a marbling coating that prevented the juice and aroma from escaping when the meat was cooked and kept it tender. As I looked, I felt a primordial carnivorous craving. However, instead of eating voraciously, I was guided to savor each slice as it was served. Shabu shabu is new to the Japanese food repertoire, tracing its origins to the early 20th century at the Suehiro restaurant in Osaka. It was inspired by a Chinese-Mongol dish of instant-boiled mutton, said to be a favorite of Kublai Khan. At the table, I was served goma (Japanese sesame sauce), ponzu and fragrant yuzu as dipping sauces. I was seduced by each silky, velvety and yes, sexy, slice of beef. It takes only seconds to cook a slice to a slightly grayish-pink perfection. The melted fat penetrates the meat and coats each slice to form an appetizing sheen. Next we were presented slices of foie gras. The chef carefully used a spoon to submerge the fragile liver inside the broth with the delicacy of a mother bathing a newborn. This was an epiphany–a new way to enjoy foie gras. Smoother than freshly churned butter, it was soft and, due to the umami broth, richer in flavor than the liver in its classical presentation. The umami taste comes from melting fat in the beef, unlike as in sukiyaki, where the broth’s flavor comes from a combination of soy sauce, mirin and sometimes konbu and nori. Shabu Shabu Gen offers an incredible take on shabu shabu that’s delicious, especially during the rainy season–just make sure you have a strong wallet.

Shabu Shabu Gen The Plaza, 46th Floor Jl. M.H. Thamrin, Jakarta Telp: +02129922246 Hours: 12 p.m.-2:30 p.m., 6 p.m.-10:30 p.m. shabugenid shabugen shabu-gen.com


tasteBUD

Eyes

bigger

than my stomach A RECIPE FOR BUMBU DASAR MERAH SPICE PASTE Words and photos Theodora Hurustiati

I

don’t think I can call this a traditional Indonesian recipe, although all the ingredients are from the market near my mom’s place in Jakarta. When I come home, the first place I usually go to is a wet market for a food shopping spree. However, I tend to have eyes bigger than my stomach and buy too much, since, compared to prices in Italy, “exotic” fresh herbs and spices are a bargain here. Unfortunately, such things don’t last long in the fridge before they dry up–particularly galangal, kaffir lime leaves and lemongrass. The best way to avoid waste is to quickly transform these items into spice paste. This recipe shows offers my take pm Indonesian bumbu dasar merah, or basic red spice paste. Stir fry until it changes color and keep in an airtight jar in the refrigerator if you don’t use it right away, or just store it raw and freeze. The recipe for spice paste below is enough for 500 to 600 grams of fish, so you’ll have half left over for next time. I used the paste to make an easy fish curry, but do also try rubbing it on chicken or fish fillets and cook on a griddle pan. You’ll be surprised.

Serves 3-4 300-400 g meaty white fish fillets (like gindara or cod) 200 ml coconut milk 100-200 ml water 4-5 tablespoons coconut oil 5 Kaffir limes, to serve

Red spice paste 2 cloves garlic 6 (50g) Indonesian shallots 20g galangal 20g ginger 2-3 red chilis 2-3 bird’s eye chilis 4 kaffir lime leaves 2 lemongrass stalks ½ teaspoon cumin powder 1 heap teaspoon coriander powder Salt

• Peel garlic, shallots, ginger and galangal. Cut into small pieces. Finely slice both chilis and one lemongrass stalk. Tear two kaffir lime leaves into small bits. • Transfer to mortar. Add cumin, coriander and salt. Pound to fine paste. Fine chopping using blender or small food processor is much easier. • Heat coconut oil in pot over medium heat. Bruise other lemongrass stalk and stir fry with remaining kaffir lime leaves and half of spice paste. Store other half. • Once paste has changed to deeper color and is fragrant, pour coconut milk and water in and simmer over medium-low heat until it comes to boil. Add salt if needed. Traditionally, coconut milk is cooked until it starts to release its oil before adding water. It’s surely more flavorful but I’m not sure it is good for your cholesterol. • Cut fish fillets into 3-cm cubes and include in curry sauce. Simmer for further 5 to 7 minutes until sauce comes back to a boil and the fish turns opaque and cooked. • Serve hot with freshly squeezed kaffir lime juice and accompanied by steamed rice.

Jakarta-born chef Theodora Hurustiati, a 13-year resident of Udine, Italy, was the runner-up in the TV cooking program La Scuola – Cucina di Classe (The School: Classy Cooking).

JPlus

April 10, 2016 15


trendDIAL

ARMANI’s LA COLLECTION DES TERRES PRÉCIEUSES Inspired by Giorgio Armani’s travels, Armani Privé is introducing its latest line, “La Collection des Terres Précieuses”. The series debuts two scents: Rouge Malachite and Vert Malachite, which both exult in Armani’s fascination with Russian culture. Warm and powerful, Rouge Malachite offers an opulent, voluptuous and carnal tuberose and wild sage. Meanwhile, the Vert Malachite is delicate yet resistant, presenting white lily scents infused with sambac jasmine and ylang ylang essence, carrying a sensual signature for women. From Les Terres Precieuses at giorgioarmanibeauty-usa.com starting at US$310.

MULBERRY FOR PUBLIC Johnny Coca’s first hit with Mulberry was on the AW16 (Autumn/Winter 2016) catwalk, when for the debut of “Clifton”, their most lusted-after bag. The collection has now been released to the public. Coca, former head of accessories brand Céline, said that the series captured both the mundane and beautiful moments in life. The designer described the collection as “a series of vignettes that have an almost voyeuristic feel”. Take a close look. You’ll find detailing that includes canary python boots, fluffy emerald coats and burgundy embossed crocodile purses that came from his first collection for Mulberry. Exclusive to mulberry.com.

KENZO’S JUNGLE BOOK COLLECTION Celebrate the upcoming live-action flick The Jungle Book with Kenzo’s limited-edition collaboration with Disney. This is not the first time Kenzo has gone with a jungle theme. The French house released a fragrance named “Jungle” in 1996. The brand’s current “Jungle Book” joint effort will offer sweatshirts, printed shorts and shirts. The Jon Favreau-directed film, starring the ever-luminous Lupita Nyong’o, Scarlett Johansson and Idris Elba, pays homage to the characters of the classic movie, features embroidered or printed depictions of characters from the story, such as King Louie, Bagheera and Mowgli.

Exquisite

vignettes Across the spectrum of luxe

LOUBUTIN SOLASOFIA COLLECION

KUVEE WINE BOTTLE Time to sip smartly with Kuvee’s newest bottle. The company is offering a way to stop air from entering an opened bottle of wine to reduce oxidation and preserve flavor. With Kuvee, a bottle is kept completely air tight, meaning your wine of choice will last up to 30 days. How does it work? Just insert your original bottle into the Kuvee system, which provides a Wi-Fi connection and offers builtin touchscreen to give you information about what you are drinking and the number of glasses you have left. Available for pre-order only via kuvee.com.

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Christian Louboutin has released a nude collection of women’s shoes titled “Solasofia”. Presenting seven skin tones, from porcelain to deep chocolate, the brand released an ad on Instagram, saying that its spectrum ensures that every woman can find her match-and make her legs look longer. Louboutin has been receiving applause for keeping diverse skin tones in mind. Styles include ballet flats, T-strap pumps and half d’orsay pumps made from matte nappa leather. Starting from $595. +Banyubening Prieta


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