Vol. 3 No. 23 I April 24 - 30 , 2016
BANGKOK’S MOVEABLE FEAST FROM STREET FOOD TO KILLER COCKTAILS
ART AT AUCTION CHRISTIE’S HK PREVIEW
DINING OUT PHO FOR THE SOUL
GALERIES LAFAYETTE FASHION LAB RETURNS
Editor's note
Check List
Some changes This week’s monthly cover travel focus takes us to Bangkok, where contributor Willy Wilson tells us about his culinary odyssey through the Thai capital. Coincidentally, I was in Manila this week for the World Street Food Congress and interviewed one of the chefs mentioned in Willy’s article: Duangporn Songvisava, better known as Bo, famous for her fine-dining restaurant Bo.lan, which made the S. Pelligrino list of the 50 best restaurants in Asia, and what she describes as its crazy, funky, cool
counterpart, ERR. Listening to Bo describe her slow-food approach-and how Thai food uniquely balances tastes and textures-was an eye opener and something that we’ll explore in a later issue. In the meantime, enjoy the overview of Bangkok’s culinary and cocktail scene, as well as staff writer Aulia R. Sungkar’s interview with another woman chef from Thailand, Supaporn Chanvijit, better known as Bee, from W Retreat Koh Samui. Bee was recently cooking at Bengawan at
Keraton at The Plaza in Jakarta. A final note: While more information will follow in The Jakarta Post, please note that JPlus will shift its publication date to Saturdays starting on April 30. We'll let you experience the new look and feel yourself. Whereever the day takes you, please enjoy.
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Cover Focus Bangkok Gastropolis
Chris Razukas jplus@thejakartapost.com
mark my words
Nostalgia as an ingredient More than a meal
WORDS Kevindra P. Soemantri
Before I started writing about food, I trained professionally in the kitchen, followed a dream to become a chef. I was so obsessed with food (and cooking) that the kitchen for me became my temple of Zen- a place of mindfulness. If I had a chance to cook, I would cook— from the simplest home dishes, such as ikan goreng, or deep fried fish, to the most classical items from gourmet fare, such as canard à l’orange, or duck with orange sauce. Sometimes I would even indulge in classic desserts, such as a mousse or an Americanstyle gooey chocolate chip cookie. As I got deeper and deeper into cooking, I began to realize that my love for gastronomy didn’t just spring into existence in one night. Every time I listened to myself mincing scallions on a chopping board or clacking an egg in a stainless steel bowl as I beat it, I remembered when I was a small boy. My father used to sit me up in a chair to take a proper seat. He would take a spoonful of his special barbeque sauce, fresh from the pot he and my mom had prepared for their restaurant, for me to taste. At that moment, I had an epiphany. My palate was introduced to layers of flavors in a single sip: The caramel-like taste of brown sugar, the tanginess of apple cider vinegar. Suddenly, a hint of smoky spice from paprika and chili powder appeared, and then boom, a floral sweetness of natural honey that bound everything together. Cooking and eating are not just about satisfying your belly. They’re about savoring a magical moment of the senses with loved ones and turning those experiences into flavorful memories.
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It’s the essential function of food, past its obvious substantive one. Remember: The English word restaurant traces its origins to the French restaurer, which means to restore or to revive. Our experience at the table or in the kitchen goes fare beyond salt and pepper, rice and sambal or foie gras and truffles. Savor it. When you eat, remember the times you had the dish previously. Remember who you shared the meal with. Whenever I eat nasi uduk from a street vendor in Jakarta, I can’t help but remember the first time I had the dish. I was seven. It was not a cheerful day. I witnessed my mom moaning in pain in a bed at Abdi Waluyo Hospital in Central Jakarta when she was in the throes of dengue fever. To comfort me, my dad took me for nasi uduk. What must have been a grim visage of sadness on my face slowly disappeared and was replaced by a big smile as I tasted the fragrant rice, crispy skin chicken and delectable sambal uleg. Everyone must have similar amazing memories brought on by a specific dish or meal, whether at the family dinner table or at a restaurant, whether it’s a birthday celebration or wedding proposals. Nowadays, many great chefs take inspiration from their memories. Take the case of the great French chef Paul Bocuse. At his monumental restaurant in Lyon, most of the dishes on the menu are typical of classic French home cooking, but elevated. According to Bocuse, the best foods come from home. Similarly, the members of the stellar
trinity of Basque cuisine, Juan, Jordi and Josef Roca of El Cellar De Can Roca, took over their parent’s restaurant-and then established a new one just across the way. In Jakarta, the pioneer of molecular gastronomy in Indonesia, chef Andrian Ishak of Namaaz, once created a special set menu with the theme of masa kecil, or childhood. It was an experience of eating and remembering childhood delicacies. What a beautiful way of eating. Walt Disney and Pixar brilliantly showed to the world the power of love and nostalgia inherent in food in Ratatouille, when the world’s toughest food critic, Anton Ego, suddenly had an ecstatic transporting experience to his childhood, while eating the ratatouille made by Remy the Mouse. In Tabula Rasa (Blank Slate), Indonesia’s first culinary themed movie; there is a scene where Parmanto (Yayu Unru) breaks down in tears when he tasted Mak’s (Dewi Irawan) fish-head gulai and remembers his hometown. How many of us had an experience similar to that of Anton Ego or Parmanto, with a sudden remembrance coming just after taking the first bite of a meal? Proust’s madeleine is universal. As for me, perhaps there’ll be a moment, sitting at some nasi uduk vendor, when I’ll look up and listen to the sounds of the passing motorbikes, and I will remember the meals that came before. That is the beauty of food. Mark My Words shifts focus between fashion, food, parenting, technology and travel each week.
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At Your Leisure Pho rhapsody at NamNam
JPlus Team Editor Christian Razukas Art Director Budhi Hartono Graphic Designer Hengky Wijaya Marketing & Advertising Sales & Marketing Director Ady P. Pamungkas
ady.pamungkas@thejakartapost.com
Marketing Executive Faisal Ahmad
faisal@thejakartapost.com
@JPlusSunday
SundayJplus
thejakartapost.com/jplus
On the cover
Street food in Bangkok Photographer Willy Wilson
oh, the places you'll go Dine
do
SEVEN NIGHTS AT SAILENDRA
A CELEBRATION OF KIMCHI
JW Marriott Jakarta, South Jakarta The Sailendra Restaurant at the JW Marriott Jakarta is offering foodies in the capital a unique week-long gastronomic journey with different cuisines every night to delight taste buds. Monday will be Chinese food day. Tuesday will showcase Indonesian food. Wednesday is for seafood lovers. Thursday brings guests the tastes and aromas of Latin cuisine. If you want barbequed meats, come on over on Friday. Italian meals will be available on Saturday, while on Sunday, customers can enjoy Middle Eastern food.
The Korean Cultural Center Indonesia (KCC) and the Embassy of Republic of Korea are collaborating to stage the Kimchi Festival, celebrating and exploring the many different varieties of the quintessential Korean side dish. There will also be a session on how to make kimchi at home. The Ambassador of the Republic of Korea to Indonesia is expected to attend the event, which is open to the public. When: April 27 Where: Embassy of Republic of Korea Jl. Gatot Subroto, Kav. 57, South Jakarta Info: press@kccindonesia.org
talk of the town BAROQUE FLUTE MUSIC CONCERT
St. Theresia Church; Menteng, South Jakarta
L’OREAL PREPS STUDENTS FOR WORKFORCE L’Oreal Indonesia Central Office, South Jakarta Thirty lucky Indonesian college students were recently given the opportunity to take part in a three-day training program by L’Oreal Indonesia to prepare them for life in the workplace. Each of them are young and talented millennials eager to put their education to good use. However, the company feels that they are still lacking in a number of key workrelated skills, such as critical thinking and the ability to adapt quickly. To counter this problem, the company decided to host “A Taste of L’Oreal” from April 18-20 to train these students on the skills they need to get by in the workplace. The list of skills taught includes soft and hard forms of competency, entrepreneurship and managerial techniques.
The Spanish embassy recently staged a flute concert titled “Angin Be Dingin” (The Wind Is Strong) by the Baroque musical ensemble La Folia, on April 19 at St. Theresia Church, Menteng. “Angin Be Dingin” is the name of a Malay song that English navigator Thomas Forrest, who played flute and violin, arranged for a piece originally composed by Arcangelo Corelli, so it could be sung to Sultan Al’auddin during Forrest’s visit to Aceh in 1784. The concert also featured several pieces from composers from the Renaissance and Baroque periods.
SENAYAN CITY HONORS ICONIC WOMEN
Photo by Arief Suhardiman
Senayan City, South Jakarta Senayan City celebrated Kartini Day earlier this week with an awards ceremony that recognized individuals whose works have furthered the public image of Indonesian women. The April 20 event, titled “The Iconic Women 2016”, handed out awards to 10 inspiring women from different walks of life–such as art, modeling, literature and social activism. The women in question are Andini Effendi, Amalia Wirjono, Dewi Lestari, Maudy Koesnaedi, Nia Dinata, Nila Tanzil, Okke Hatta Rajasa, Okky Asokawati, Susan Bachtiar and Veronica Colondam. “We hope that these awards can inspire other Indonesian women so that we can have even more modern-day Kartinis,” said Veri Y. Setiady, Senayan City’s CEO.
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CultureVulture
On
Photos via Christie's
the block Pirous — When The Earth Quakes II
Christie’s to preview Hong Kong auction lots in Jakarta WORDS Prasiddha Gustanto
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Masriadi — Hero vs Hero (Jago Neon)
ince it’s entry into the Asian art market in 1986, Christie’s has sold around 100,000 lots at its Hong Kong branch to buyers from over 70 countries. Along the way, the auction house has established several records, including a world-record-setting HK$348.4 million (US$44.9 million) for its sale in 2014 of an imperial embroidered silk thangka dating to the 1400s. Among the auctions Christie’s is staging to mark its 30th anniversary in 2016 is a series of Asian-themed art auctions on May 29 and May 30, including 75 lots of Indonesian art. As a preview, 50 lots from the upoming end-of-May auctions will be on display at the Grand Hyatt Jakarta’s Grand Ballroom on April 29 and 30. The Jakarta Post recently sat down with Charmie Hamami, Christie’s vice president and chief representative for Indonesia, to talk about what collectors can expect from the upcoming preview and auction, as well as some thoughts on the state of art in the country. What local artists will be represented? Affandi, Hendra Gunawan and Lee Man Fong will be featured alongside Indo-European artists such as Romuldo Locatelli, Rudolf Bonnet and Adrien Jean Le Mayeur. Contemporary Indonesian art will be represented as well, most notably by I Nyoman Masriadi and Christine Ay Tjoe.
Hendra Gunawan — Shielding From The Rain
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Any pieces of note? Adrien-Jean Le Mayeur’s Women around the Lotus Pond (oil on
canvas). Le Mayeur travelled the world and finally decided to embark to Bali when he was in his 50s for its beauty, tranquility and sunlight. Through his paintings, we can see the romantic reflection of his immediate surroundings, including his Balinese muse, Ni Pollok. The [upcoming auction is the] biggest of Le Mayeur works by far that the market has seen yet. A.D. Pirous’ Bila Bumi Bergetar II (When The Earth Quakes II, mixed media on canvas). Pirous is an abstract modern artist from the Bandung school who has been heavily influence in calligraphy and Islamic art. How has the local scene been evolving? There have been positive strides in recent years to further develop and support the art “ecology” in Indonesia, from galleries, collectors and the government. Contrast this to the early 2000s, when Indonesian contemporary art was very speculative. Collectors now are focused more on patronage and collecting for passion, which is healthier for the market. Galleries have started to emerge with consistent programming to capture this interest, with programs to procure works of Indonesian art. What does the recent recordsetting $4.3 million sale of a Hendra Gunawan painting at Sotheby’s Hong Kong mean for Indonesian artists? It shows that the market is healthy and receptive at the top end of the Southeast Asian and Indonesian art scene, with an Indonesian core matched by strong new interest from collectors.
How is the global economic downturn affecting the art market? Despite some market headwinds and consolidation after 10 years of aggressive growth, 2016 has been very solid, particularly in Asia, where we have witnessed strong buying demand for tightly-curated sales. Our clients appreciate quality works priced at the correct level. We have been experiencing a continued growth in new clients from across the region. Our regional sales in Hong Kong recorded strong results so far this year, such as the First Open Hong Kong, which featured a special selection of artists from Southeast Asia. The sale attracted new bidders and young buyers regionally. There is continued strong interest for the works of Southeast Asian and Indonesian artists. We are cautiously optimistic for a solid performance for the Hong Kong Spring Sale. Dos and Don’ts for new collectors? You should not be afraid to ask for advice from the many experts in the art market. Christie’s has a worldwide team of specialists who will be happy to talk about works of art before an auction to enable potential bidders to make an informed choice. Information is key. Collectors keen to broaden their knowledge should read specialist publications and Christie’s Magazine and make full use of the growing amount of information to be found in auction catalogs. Christie’s Auction Preview Grand Hyatt Jakarta Grand Ballroom April 29 and 30 christies.com
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The Hungry City Bangkok is a massive city with a big appetite Words Willy Wilson | Photos Willy wilson, afp
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an you cram the best of Bangkok’s gastronomic scene into five days? Most people familiar with the city will tell you that you can’t because there are too many restaurants, food stalls and bars. But I have accomplished the impossible. On a recent trip to Bangkok, I covered the best that the city has to offer. Hip restaurants embracing modern local flavors? Check. Cool bars serving killer cocktails? Check. Little
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known street food stalls serving tucked away in small alleyways? The weird stuff in the night market? The swanky restaurants in gentrified areas? The Chinese food with a local twist? All check. Covering an area of 1,500 square kilometers, the Greater Bangkok is a megacity that’s home to an estimated ten million people, 30,000 taxis and 25 million tourists each year. However, whether you’re a seasoned traveller or a first-time visitor, the city is surprisingly easy to navigate. Nope, not everybody speaks English. But thanks to the skytrain (BTS) and underground (MRT) systems connecting large areas, getting around this hectic town is pretty convenient. I arrive in Suvarnabhumi International Airport (suvarnabhumiairport.com/en) and go straight to W Bangkok (whotelbangkok.com), where I would stay a few nights. In keeping with the hotel’s signature bold and trendy design, the Bangkok branch features a striking spiral staircase and a colorful wall full of tuk-tuk lights on the lobby. All 403 rooms tell of the same drama, with generous helping of colors, carefully curated music and hottest gadgetry. The hotel has two of the most popular spots for Bangkok’s fashionistas: Woo Bar at the lobby and The House of Satron. The former (whotelbangkok.com/woo_bar) is a neon-lit bar with cool music, but the latter is a truly exceptional spot. Occupying a 19th century mansion that housed the Russian ambassador for many
years, The House of Satron (whotelbangkok.com/ thehouseonsathorn) is a majestic venue that serves a mixture of Thai and international flavors. Modern Local Flavors Fusion food is the rage in Bangkok, perpetuated by a slew of international chefs taking the scrumptious local street food into swanky venues. The trend, according to Christopher Schultz – a foodie friend and longtime expatriate resident of Bangkok-took off in 2010 when a fellow American, Jarrett Wrisley, launched Soul Food Mahanakorn (soulfoodmahanakorn.com). Its low-key lighting and wood finishing in a refurbished three-storey shophouse doesn’t necessarily mean it’s original, but the menu served has singlehandedly redefined Bangkok’s cafe society. Wrisley wasn’t the first expat to serve Thai food, but he was the first who has done so respectfully and successfully. In an interview with CNN in 2010, the former food writer from Pennsylvania said he knew that a foreigner trying his hand at Thai food might arouse suspicions, but all he ever wanted to do was “to serve slow, soulful, deliberately cooked food made with good ingredients.” The restaurant’s website neatly sums up the founder’s concept: Wholesome ingredients. Honest cooking. Serious drinks. “The menu is filled with dishes intended for sharing from the local usual suspects to next level unconventional Thai comfort food,” explains Chris, who
invites me to dinner at Wrisley’s second outlet in the hip neighbourhood of Thonglor-the Kemang equivalent of Bangkok. As with Kemang, there are a lot of interesting venues popping up in every corner of Thonglor. We are headed for Soul Food 555 (fb.com/soulfood555) which is housed in a food-focused community mall called The Commons (thecommonsbkk.com). Wait…what? Well, think of a loft-like, open-plan, suburban mall with industrial feel and carefully curated food stalls. It’s a cool food court of sorts that attracts trendy expats and local hipsters. Here, diners can order dishes various food kiosks and enjoy them at the central communal area before heading upstairs for dessert. We ordered many, many things but the ones that stood out were, hands down, the burgers from Soul Food 555.
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cover focus There are three burger options here. Each contains what locals consider comfort food. The Risky Chicken (fried chicken and somtam with Sriracha mayo on a Conkey’s brioche bun, BHT 250, US$7.13) has a dominant spicy and sour flavor-just the way I like it. But the bun comes out a little soggy. I want to order another type of burger, but I simply could eat no more - thanks to the Dan Dan Noodles (BHT 140) from Xiao Chi (fb.com/ xiaochishop) and Barrio Bonito’s (fb.com/barrio.bonito.5) guacamole (BHT 220) that come in crispy corn tortilla cones. I come back the next day to Soul Food 555 and order Khao Soy Cowboy (pulled pork in khao soy curry with sweet potato and mustard pickles, BHT 250). This suits my palette better, as the crispy egg noodles provide a satisfying crunch on each bite. Melting Pot Another casual and contemporary dining spot worth visiting is Baa Ga Din (baagadin.com), a dining hot spot that references rusticity and Bangkok nostalgia. Keeping with the current gastronomic trend, Baa Ga Din presents modern takes on street staples such as hoy tod (crispy oysters battered with egg mousse) and deep-fried chicken wings. As far as chicken dishes are concerned, my personal favorite was the deep-fried chicken skin from ERR (errbkk.com), a dining spot founded by chef couple Duangporn Songvisava and Dylan Jones. Located by the Chao Praya river, ERR focuses on small-portioned dishes that go well with Thai-influenced cocktails the bar is famous for. If you crave homemade taste, head out to Supanniga Eating Room (supannigaeatingroom.com), where the food served has run in the family for many generations. The inspiration for the menu is the owner’s grandmother. Don’t miss the pla too tod (deep-fried mackerel). As for the drinks, Bangkok offers more than a handful sky bars. The
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most famous one is Red Sky, located on the 55th floor of Centara building (centarahotelsresorts.com/redsky). Al-fresco dining under a red-lit arch looking over the concrete jungle of Bangkok affords a million-dollar view. The menu? French. If you want to mingle with the city’s who’s who, head out to Vertigo at Banyan Tree. Be prepared to splurge, as drinks here don’t come cheap. I preferred Above Eleven (aboveeleven. com) at Sukumvit’s Fraser Suites (bangkok-sukhumvit.frasershospitality. com). Apart from the stunning skyline view, the bar offers an exciting fusion menu inspired by Japanese and Peruvian cuisine in small plates. I order acebichado (seabass, ika karage and avocado) and go straight to heaven. For a more down to earth option, opt for Sing Sing (bkkmenu.com/ restaurant/Sing-Sing-Theatre). Founded by Bangkok-based Australian designer Ashley Sutton, Sing Sing evokes images of 1930s Shanghai - complete with a network of mezzanines, sunken bars and secret passages that lead to single-table balconies and speakeasy back rooms. Naughty. Very naughty. Sutton made his name in Bangkok’s nightlife scene with the launch of Maggie Choo (novotelbangkoksilom. com), another popular night spot that channels his Chinoiserie fetish loved by everybody. For an easy night, I recommend WTF (wtfbangkok.com), an intimate hipster bar selling delicious cocktails. My choice is Tee Yai (tequila, lime, chill and cinnamon syrup and orange bitters), the perfect drink to knock back a few among the young and creative folks.
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A taste of Thailand Gold medal guest chef Bee showcases Thai delicacies in Jakarta Words Aulia R. Sungkar | Photos Arief Suhardiman
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eraton at The Plaza is presenting “Taste of Thai” at its Bengawan restaurant, which ends April 24. For this two-week special event, the hotel invited Supaporn Chanvijit, better known as Chef Bee, from the W Retreat Koh Samui, Thailand. At a recent lunch gathering, JPlus had the opportunity to taste the award-winning chef’s a la carte menu. For starters, we sampled yam pla tuna (seared yellow fin tuna with wing bean salad and sweet spicy dressing), yam talay (char-grilled local seafood with bird eye chili and lime dressing) and por pia sod (spring roll with cucumber, carrot and sweet chili sauce). One of the stars of the Thai food world is, of course, tom yam soup, which Bee blended with the tantalizing flavors of a tom ka kai. The chicken soup with coconut milk and galangal oil and mushroom was quite appetizing before we continued to the main course of khao pad sopparot (fried rice with pineapple, cashew and raisins), kaeng mussamun neua (braised beef shank with crisp potatoes) and the chef’s signature dish, pad thai koong (stir-fried noodles with tiger prawn and tamarind sauce-all well suited to the Indonesian palate. To conclude our lunch, the chef focused on three quintessential flavors in Thai cuisine: Stewed banana with coconut milk, a sweet sticky rice with mango jelly and a fruit platter with a tom ya sorbet. The sticky rice in particular was perfectly matched with the sweet taste of the mango jelly.
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SIDE DISH JPlus had a chat with Chef Bee on what fueled her climb up the culinary ladder and about Indonesian and Thai cuisine. Here are excerpts of the interview. Why become a chef? I grew up in the kitchen. My mother used to own a small restaurant and I was only six years old when I first helped her out with various kitchen tasks. Later, I did “mix and match” with all the ingredients, and this is what makes the world of cuisine fun. What does a newbie need to know about Thai food? They should know about the ingredients and spices used in the food. Thai food is one of the healthiest cuisines and has won the
heart of foodies from across the world. If you’ve never tried Thai food before, start with pad Thai. It’s casual local food with genuine flavor. What’s your favorite comfort food? Pad Thai. [Laughs.] How are Indonesian and Thai cooking the same (or different)? To some extent, there are similarities between Indonesian food and Thai food. One good example is fried rice. Pineapple fried rice is more in the Thai style, but generally we use the same ingredients, except that Indonesian food is spicier. As for the soup, ours is somehow a bit more sour. How do you want guests to feel when you serve them? I want my guests to feel at home. I use recipes to make high-quality versions of homemade food.
China’s New Luxury Wine
In the Spirit
Meet the first serious—and seriously good—red from the fledgling wine country Words Elin McCoy, Bloomberg
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Photos via Moët Hennessy usa
he makers of a new red blend from China are aiming to lure luxury wine connoisseurs from such established regions as Napa and Bordeaux, betting they’ll spend $250 a bottle on something novel and adventurous. I got a sneak preview of the first vintage of the wine at a dinner last week in Manhattan, where I was the first US journalist to taste it. The Chinese red, which is backed by luxury powerhouse LVMH, is evocatively labeled Ao Yun, which means “roaming above the clouds.” It’s a reference to the craggy, remote aeries in which the grapes are grown in the Tibetan foothills. With the hefty price tag, only 24,000 bottles in existence, and a romantic “epic journey” story, this red blend seems squarely aimed at thrill-seeking collectors anxious to try the latest. Is it worth it? If you measure value by the effort and money it took to make the wine, the answer is yes. As for the flavor, the quality is definitely there—if not quite commensurate with the price point. Deep-colored, luscious 2013 Ao Yun is certainly the best red from China I’ve yet sampled. The blend of 90 percent cabernet sauvignon and 10 percent cabernet franc is ripely fruity, dark, and powerful, with a spicy tang, a hint of licorice, and a silky smooth texture. It’s nearly 15 percent alcohol and tastes unique, something like a combo of a Spanish Ribera del Duero and a Napa cult cab. There’s tons of tannin, so it should age for a long, long time. It was a pretty good accompaniment to braised short ribs, too. The Backstory The venture began in 2009, when Christophe Navarre, chief executive officer of Moët Hennessy, indulged a long-held dream to find a spot in China that would be perfect for making red wine. He tapped Australian enologist Tony Jordan (who had established Chandon in Australia and managed the company’s other wine estates there) to undertake a several-year-long search throughout China for the best terroir. He ended up in the northwestern part of Yunnan province, adjoining Tibet, where Jesuit missionaries had planted vines in the 19th century. In 2002, the local Chinese government helped farmers in 25 or so Tibetan villages on the steep slopes above the Mekong River plant cabernet vines as a way to diversify their crops. Moët Hennessy selected four villages, two on each side of the river, at elevations from
7,200 to 8,500 feet, for their grape potential. The 320 plots of vines the company controls are interspersed with rows of tomato and occasional hashish plants. Moët Hennessy has a 50-year lease on the vineyards, a partnership with Chinese baijiu producer VATS. The Climate “It’s not about soil,” insisted Prats, “but about how many hours of sunshine you have and what the cycle of weather is.” Thanks to the altitude, the climate is dry and cool, but because of shadows from the mountains, there’s sunlight only from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. The growing cycle is 160 days from flowering to harvest, longer than the 120 in Bordeaux. “Think of it like slow cooking,” explained Prats. “Sunlight over a longer period of time creates intensity and tannins that are very, very silky.” The soil is gravel that washed down from the mountains. “But making wine there is a logistical nightmare,” Prats admitted. From Shangri-La, visitors must climb into a four-wheel-drive vehicle and drive four to five hours on a narrow, treacherous road through a mountain pass at 14,000 feet. An Uphill Battle Maxence Dulou, the estate manager from Bordeaux, faces other challenges: There’s no electricity on the farms, and tenders use yaks instead of tractors. Everything is organic and has to be done by hand. For the first vintage, the fermentation tanks didn’t arrive; the truck driver bringing them had ended up in jail after running over someone, and the truck and tanks were impounded. So the grapes were fermented in a rented facility in the kind of ceramic jars used to create the potent Chinese liquor baijiu. The winery in Adong, the highest village at 8,500 feet, was finally completed in the spring of 2014. The wine will debut at VinExpo Hong Kong in May and in Europe in June, with the official China launch on June 6 at the French embassy in Beijing. Only one-third of the bottles are reserved for China, but Prats has already received Chinese offers to buy the entire production. Moët Hennessy has earmarked 500 cases for the US; the wine will arrive at New York wine merchant Sherry-Lehmann in September and will be carried in three shops in Washington, Los Angeles, and San Francisco.
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APRIL 24, 2016 11
a la Mode
THE RETURN OF
Fashion LaB GALERIES LAFAYETTE GALERIES LAFAYETTE JAKARTA AND INDONESIA FASHION FORWARD ARE WORKING TO BRING LOCAL DESIGNERS TO A NATIONAL-AND INTERNATIONAL-AUDIENCE
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@lafayettejkt
EMERGING TALENTS, INTRIGUING DESIGNS Here’s what you need to know about the designers and brands selected for Galeries Lafayette’s Fashion Lab 2016.
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Andhita Siswandi Andhita Siswandi’s eponymous brand, launched in 2016, offers a ready-towear collection focusing on embroidery and luxury fabrications. The designer, active in the local scene since graduating from LaSalle fashion college in 2007, got her start by designing evening wear and bridal couture. Andhita’s hard work, however, has paid off: She has received awards for her creativity from the British Council Indonesia, Mazda as well as Indonesia Fashion Forward.
Rani Hatta Rani Hatta, born in 1990, started her career in fashion in 2013 with the launch of her eponymous brand. She’s known for her long skirts, pants, blouses, as well as jackets that evoke simplicity and convenience for matching with your wardrobe. While Rani previously operated exclusively online; recently, she opened two boutiques in Jakarta and regularly appears at various prestigious fashion shows, such as the 2014 Jakarta Fashion Week.
Bateeq Established in 2013, the brand takes as its mission constant innovation with the nation’s heritage fabric of batik, focusing on various experiments in color and devising unique motifs inspired by Indonesia’s rich traditions as well by as current fashion trends.
Byo Designer Tommy Ambiyo Tedji, a graduate of the Bandung Institute of Technology (ITB) in West Java, says that his unusual and experimental creations draw inspiration from the worlds of fantasy and science fiction. Tommy’s pieces explore (and push against) the boundaries of materials, shapes and concepts-all while maintaining functionality for the finished products, which is to be expected, considering his degree in industrial engineering.
Photos Courtesy of GALERIES LAFAYETTE
aleries Lafayette Jakarta has been working with the design mavens at Indonesia Fashion Forward (IFF) to cultivate 14 young, talented designers with the potential to break into the international market as part of its third annual Fashion Lab. The France-based department store, which has a local outpost at Pacific Place, takes the cultivation of talent and style seriously at Fashion Lab. Uniquely, the lab presents the creations of emerging local designers alongside those of established fashion houses. The program was launched internationally in Berlin in 2004 as Labo Mode, with the support of well-known international design powerhouses such as Sonia Rykiel, Yves-Saint-Laurent, Jean Paul-Gaultier and Sisi Wasabi. After a series of successful runs, Galeries Lafayette turned the program into a spotlight for young, unknown creators to present their collections while giving them the aid and know-how to sell to a wider market. As part of the program, Galeries Lafayette works with the French fashion school ESMOD to guide participating designers on how to craft their sales and marketing strategies. “The successful fashion lab is held annually to provide direction to young designers in the Indonesian fashion industry and also as a Give Back program to support the development of Indonesian designers,” said Melissa Ann Tjahyadikarta, head marketing of Galeries Lafayette. The talents and labels that Galeries Lafayette will be fostering as part of Fashion Lab’s third year comprise: Andhita Siswandi, Bateeq, Billi Tjong, Byo, Day and Night, D’leia, Ellyhan, I.K.Y.K., LOTUZ, MILCAH, Paulina Katarina, Rani Hatta, SOE and Tertia. The designers who made the cut were, of course, ecstatic. “I was very happy to finally be able to join the Fashion Lab program, designer Andhita Siswandi, who launched a second line dubbed “Andhita” earlier this year, said. “The IFF [Indonesian Fashion Forward] previously called me and offered me a chance to participate in last year’s program, but unfortunately I couldn’t. At that time, my collections focused on wedding and evening dresses only.” The young designers of Fashion Lab are also representing Galeries Lafayette’s new brand identity, “The New Chic”, which embodies three concepts: Young, fresh and edgy. With The Jakarta Post as one of the media partners, Fashion Lab will formally kick off with a trunk show on April 28 at 6 p.m. on the first floor of Galeries Fashion Lab 3rd Lafayette, where the creations of the 14 Edition curated designers will be presented. The April 25-May 31 show will be open to the public. Galeries Lafayette Jakarta Here’s just some of things that Pacific Place Mall, SCBD fashionistas can expect. galerieslafayette.co.id
SNEAK PEEK Andhita shared with JPlus her plans to showcase pieces from her recently launched second line for Fashion Lab’s runway show. In contrast to her first line, which featured a host of stunning wedding and evening dresses; Andhita’s second line presents ready-to-wear cocktail dresses. “The cocktail dresses have simple and feminine characteristics, with cuts that feature tailored and flared silhouettes. This will be the debut of the collection to the public,” according to Andhita. Meanwhile, Day and Night creative director Yelly Lumentu said that she planned to showcase pieces from the premium women’s line Summer/ Spring 2016 collection, albeit specifically tailored and curated to match the tastes of Galeries Lafayette’s patrons. Day and Night also was seen on the catwalk at the latest iteration of Jakarta Fashion Week. “We’re experimenting with motifs commonly found in puzzle pieces,” Yelly said. “This collection features cuts that are more daring. We, however, are staying true to our black-and-white signature color scheme.” Meanwhile, Eda Arthaputri, the creative director of MILCAH, said that the label’s collection for this year’s program was designed to reflect a special, cultural mission. “We designed a collection utilizing traditional materials, in order to showcase a signature Indonesian character, to bring people closer again to Indonesian culture,” Eda said. There are more benefits for Galeries Lafayette Fidelite card members: Those who make a minimum purchase of Rp 3 million will receive an on-the-spot voucher for Rp 100,000, while the top spender (with a minimum purchase of Rp 50 million) will have a chance to win a four-day/ three-night stay at the Raffles Hotel Paris.
Day and Night The label was established by Yelly Lumentu in 2012, a graduate of Jakarta’s Esmod University who has long been passionate about fashion and art. Among the items on Yelly’s impressive resume is racking up a first-place win at the fashion design held by Indonesia’s leading women’s magazine publisher, the Femina Group, in 2014.
I.K.Y.K. The acronym for this label, established in 2011 by Anadia Marina Putri Harahap, stands for “I know you know”. I.K.Y.K. offers a readyto-wear line suitable for day-to-day life, boasting modern pieces with a distinct aesthetic. Anadia, who has a background in visual communications design and professional experience in advertising, sculpts her acuity in fashion from there. She’s participated in various fashion shows, including the Jakarta Fashion Week and the Bazaar Fashion Festival, and was a finalist at the CLEO Fashion Awards.
a la Mode
Ellyhan Ellyhan Jewelry, spearheaded by founder Lia Ellyhan, offers exquisite pieces created using pearls harvested from the waters off Lombok Island in West Nusa Tenggara. The works are intricately designed and handcrafted by Lia, who was born into a family of pearl artisans. Her debut collection at the Jakarta Fashion Week 2015, titled “The Lioness of Marunda”, was inspired by an old Batavian folk tale.
LOTUZ LOTUZ, which has positioned itself as a highend ready-to-wear brand, encapsulates the spirit of the contemporary woman, embracing notions of femininity and power and offering a collection that can be mixed or matched for a style that can goes from day to night. Under current creative director Kesya Moedjenan, LOTUZ is available in Jakarta, Los Angeles, Riyadh and Shanghai.
Paulina Katarina Paulina Katarina launched her self-named label with her sister, Ratna Katarina, in Bali in 2012. The design duo, who have been crafting their own clothes since childhood, specialize in pieces with an eclectic, feminine feel, offering sexy edges and sophisticated undertones through an array of silhouettes.
Tertia Tertia Enda graduated from Portland State University in the US, majoring in international marketing, and completed a course at the Susan Budihardjo School of Fashion Design upon her return to Jakarta. In 2014, Tertia launched her eponymous premium label. Each piece in the Tertia collection is designed for women who appreciate simplicity, clean-cut and elegant looks. The label’s designs showcase classic and timeless visuals.
Billy Tjong Growing up in a family long steeped in the garment business, Billy Tjong quit a straight job in the world of banking in 2001 to pursue his passion for fashion. Fast forward to 2010, when Billy established his eponymous ready-to-wear label. He’s since gone on to have pieces showcased at the 2013 Hong Kong Fashion Week. Other nods include a win at the International Young Fashion Designers Awards in 2003, as well as taking home honors from the Mercedes Benz Asia Fashion Awards in 2004 and 2005. D’leia The label, launched by Lea Maria in 2010, initially started by offering delightful clutch bags made from batik and tenun (woven cloth). Since then, D’leia has expanded into making tote bags, wallets, and other accessories for women. The brand targets fashion lovers who also appreciate the finest in local culture, heritage products and traditional lifestyles. MILCAH MILCAH was founded in November 2010 by sisters Faustine and Eda Arthaputri, who focus on women’s ready-to-wear clothes, accessories and shoes. The label loves exploring and expanding on basic shapes and cuts without reducing their essence. The achievements of the sisters include a win at the CLEO Fashion Awards as most innovative local brand and picking up In Style’s ready-towear award in 2012. The label also showed at Indonesia Fashion Forward 2013 and Jakarta Fashion Week 2015.
SOE SOE Jakarta emphasizes the use of hand-woven textiles, in a nod to the classic, timeless style of Indonesia. Designer Monique Soeriaatmadja uses fabrics crafted by weavers from different parts of the archipelago who do their work on traditional looms, including the labor-intensive back-strap loom. Monique’s creations are inspired by traditional patterns and the contemporary arts, as well showing influences from the texture of sportswear.
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at your LEISURE
Pho for
the soul DINING AT NAMNAM NOODLE BAR
WORDS AND PHOTOS Kevindra P. Soemantri
M
y first bowl of pho was from Pho 24, a pioneer of modern Vietnamese dining in Jakarta. I remember thinking how could a soup could be so crystal clear yet packed with intense natural flavor? There was the deep rich flavor of the meat slices, a fragrant broth, chewy rice noodles that gave an overall texture and crunchiness to the dish along with mintypeppery fresh coriander leaves. Eighteen years after that initial encounter, I visited NamNam Noddle Bar, a festive shrine to the humble bowl of pho and—finally—to the signature Vietnamese sub sandwich, the bahn mi. NamNam Noodle Bar, another creation from Singapore’s Les Amis Group, has several outlets in Jakarta; I visted the one in Plaza Indonesia. Walking into the restaurant during the lunch rush, I saw the the back-of-thehouse, team, visible through the open kitchen in front of the restaurant’s stool bar, working fast. The wait staff also moved at speed: Imagine The Flash slowed down to about 20 kilometers an hour-passing the salt, taking dirty bowls, giving out water bottles, handing patrons their bills, taking orders, pouring soups and greeting guests. I chose to sit at the stool bar and watch the activity. There I heard nostalgic Indochinese music in the background to help me to settle in. I barely had time to sit and post a message to Twitter before a server took my order. What I loved was that I didn’t need to drill down through the menu. The presentation of dishes was focused, clear and effortless. As I watched the work at the
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bahn mi counter, my pho arrived. It was an immsense bowl of fragrant broth with chicken, homemade meatballs and tripe cooked until they were as soft as braised veal tendons. A sip of the broth was like breathing in deep in a meadow full of herbs-fragrant and refreshing, even during the rush. Unlike as in some other restaurants, which encourage diners to add mint leafs, coriander leafs and scallions to taste; at NamNam, the recipe for pho is fixed. The recipe is already adjusted to local palates and is perfect, as is. However, additional herbs are available (Rp 8,000 [about 60 US cents] will get you a big bowl of coriander leaves). One thing that hit me were the meatballs. While they were of the Indonesian variety, there was a definite inspiration behind this bulb of meat. Chef Nam, the principal, was looking for something local to be added to his menu. Then he found out about Indonesia’s bakso. A man of dedication, Nam trained for a short time as the protégé of a local tukang bakso, following and learning everything from the meatball vendor, from how he chose his meat at a traditional market at dawn to how he worked in his home kitchen. Nam’s efforts paid off; his bakso are some of the finest I’ve ever tasted-meaty and with a perfect crunchy texture resulting from a precise proportion of meat to flour and a perfect cooking time. This bowl was truly comforting to the soul. For my next dish, I tried bahn mi, the original Indochinese fusion food, which, in its original incarnation, mixes the FrancoAustrian baguette, French liver pate and
Vietnamese staple ingredients such as fresh coriander herbs, carrots and bean sprouts. At NamNam, the baguette itself was more festive than filling, with more air in the dough leading to a lighter bread. My bahn mi was the Australian wagyu version, with a hint of spicyness from the chilli sauce, julliene-cut carrots and cucumbers that added natural crunchiness. Last but not least, there were green coriander leaves that bound everything in harmony. NamNam doesn’t use liver pate, as its taste is unfamilar for Indonesian diners. I finished my lunch with Vietnam’s iconic finger food: Translucent sping rolls, as captivating to look as it as they were to eat. Vietnamese springrolls is a dish like no other, offering a perfect mix of the delicious and the healthy. Inside was a crunchy sweet shrimp that was poached to perfection, glass noodles done to perfect consistency and spring onions that gave the dish an extra hint of flavor. Chef Nam is an inspiration. Born toward the end of Vietnam’s war with the
US in the 1970s, he flew to Denmark and eventually enlisted in that nation’s army. His culinary career began to pick up steam when he worked for Les Amis in Singapore and the Legian Hotels in Bali, ending as the Chedi Club’s food and beverage director. One day after work, chef Nam came home not with a fiery spirit but in total silence. He asked himself if serving gourmet fare to wealthy diners was his first, best destiny? The answer was no. Chef Nam returned to Les Amis and to his traditional roots in Vietnamese cuisine. NamNam was launched in Singapore and the rest is history.
Plaza Indonesia Basement Level, Unit 16-19 Jl. M.H. Thamrin Kav. 28-30 Jakarta 10350 @namnamnoodlebar namnamnoodlebar.co.id
tasteBUD
When pressed for
time
A recipe for Avocado Quesadillas Words and photos Theodora Hurustiati
I
’ve recently returned to Udine after a brief period in Jakarta. Unfortunately, back in Italy; I don’t have the luxury of visiting street food vendors or calling Gojek whenever I feel hungry. Plus, if I eat out or order in frequently, I’ll run the risk of going bankrupt! However, when pressed for time, lunches are often at risk of becoming optional. At times like this, sandwiches are my salvation. Like many Italians; when I’m desperate, I make myself a ham and cheese toast. When I’m not so hopeless though, Mexican wraps are my favorites for quick lunches. Among the different types of stuffed sandwiches, these quesadillas are the simplest to prepare, using just a few ingredients. As the name suggests, queso, cheese in Spanish, is its main component. Other than that you’re free to add any vegetable or protein you like. I need to be able to fit into my old pants again after a month of eating in Jakarta, so I opted for the avocado. Otherwise seared chicken or a sunny-side-up egg would’ve been included.
Serves 2
Quesadillas: 2 (corn or flour) tortillas 100 g (4 slices) cheddar cheese ½ ripe avocado 1 green chili, possibly jalapeño 1 tomato Few coriander leaves, chopped Pinch of powdered coriander seeds Pinch of salt
• Deseed and dice tomato and green chili. Place into bowl. Add chopped coriander leaves, pinch of powdered coriander and salt. Mix to combine. • Lay two slices of cheese, few thin slices of avocado, diced tomato and green chili on one half of tortilla. • Place on a griddle pan over medium-low heat. Once tortilla is warm and soft, fold over empty half inwards into half-moon shape. • Cook for 2 to 3 minutes until cheese starts to melt and bottom part of tortilla is golden. • Flip and cook other side for about the same time. • Divide into two triangles and serve immediately with the tomato salsa.
Pico de Gallo (Tomato Salsa): 1 tomato 1 green chili, possibly jalapeño ½ small red onion ½ lime, juiced Few coriander leaves, chopped 1 teaspoon sugar A pinch of salt
• Deseed and dice tomato and green chili. Finely dice also red onion. Transfer into bowl. • Add lime juice, chopped coriander leaves, salt and sugar. Mix and chill for at least 15 minutes before serving to allow flavor to develop.
Jakarta-born chef Theodora Hurustiati, a 13-year resident of Udine, Italy, was the runner-up in the TV cooking program La Scuola – Cucina di Classe (The School: Classy Cooking).
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trend DIAL
Tome’s Summer-Perfect Capsule Collection
Tome designers Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin have finally unveiled their first large-scale capsule collection. Inspired by Cuban design and Belkis Ayon’s artworks, Tome has devised some rich, easy-to-wear pieces with sultry swirls. The collection varies from décolletage-diving, broad-striped wrap dresses to wide-leg cream pants. The color pallette is rich in earthy tones and combined with dark underlays that are based on Ayon’s gloomy artworks. The design duo focuses on the feminine gaze reflected in women’s independence, which is why they drew from Ayon’s work. The collection, available for preorder via Moda Operandi, features American actor Tessa Thompson, who was a muse for Lobo and Martin.
Zaha Hadid x CITCO
After last’s year sculptural series Tau, famed architect Zaha Hadid and Italian stone specialists CITCO have collaborated on a Valle black granite shelf. Constructed from granito nero assoluto (or fine black granite), the Valle shelving system is the result of Hadid’s futuristic designs combined with CITCO’s high quality stones. The set comprises four separate shelves that you can mount as a unified configuration or as stand-alone pieces. The collection was one of Hadid’s last projects before her passing last month.
A little luxe liven things up
Casio G-Shock GA-100 x Marcelo Burlon County of Milan
Argentinian-born, Milan-based designer Marcelo Burlon is releasing his latest collaboration with Casio G-Shock. After past releases with Alpha Industries, Moët & Chandon and Illulian, Burlon debuted the collection at last week’s Milan design fair. His take on the classic Casio G-Shock GA-100 keeps the bulk form of the watch and is covered with a snake-print pattern. This limited edition will be available worldwide at G-Shock stores and County of Milan retailers starting June 1.
Christian Louboutin Red Nail Polish
As if you needed an excuse to buy something else from the Christian Louboutin collection, the beloved brand is offering a set of luxe red nail polishes. Louboutin has released three sexy rouge colors suitable for your date night. Hues comprise a slightly sparkly peony red Jazzy Doll, a deep raspberry-red Lady Peep, and an orange-red punch Edgy Popi. Of course, the polishes take inspiration from the the iconic red found at the bottom of Louboutin’s heels. Get these luxurious rouges on April 25 for US$50 each via christianlouboutin.com.
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Raf Simons x Adidas Originals Stan Smith
Raf Simons, the former creative director of Christian Dior, is now in his sixth year with Adidas Originals. Following up on a previous collaboration with Stan Smith, Originals Stan Smith “Copper”; the brand is debuting Originals Stan Smith “Silver”. Simons, who continually experiments with various upper treatments and techniques, such as dip-dye methods and purposefully destroyed materials, is now taking a full metallic approach. The collaboration’s silver hue keeps the series appealing while also including a tonal grey tooling system. Available for $400. +Banyubening Prieta