146 MILLIE’S ADVENTURES – The Millie at Snowy River

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MILLIE AND I LOVE A ROAD TRIP! IT’S SO ENJOYABLE TO SEE NEW PLACES AND TO GET REACQUAINTED WITH PLACES FROM THE PAST. OUR DESTINATION ON THIS JOURNEY WAS TOWARDS FAR EAST GIPPSLAND.

Snowy River Photos & Words by Ken Roberts

It’s a constant reminder as we drive how much improved the roads are from the past. Our pleasant journey lead us up the highway, took us through Bairnsdale and then further along towards Orbost. The signs of the bushfires over the past couple of years became evident in the blackened trees but it’s pleasing to witness their slow regrowth.

I can’t remember the last time I was in Orbost but I saw it now in a new light. Even though the highway passes it by venturing into the town is a really nice diversion. It’s wonderful to find such an archetypal country town that still retains its charm. I wandered up the main street and it struck me how in a place like this, not so close to a big town, it had everything you required. It seemed like there was one of every type of shop or business you would need. It had such a warm and friendly feel and the interaction with the locals was so genuine and nice. Just at the entrance to the main street is the log cabin information centre. Not only is it a wonderful building showing what construction was like in the past with a glowing fire in its hearth but the enthusiasm and welcome given was lovely. The friendly information officer had an encyclopedic knowledge about the whole region. You could tell she was speaking from experience as she talked about different walks and places to visit and about all of the small details you should know about them. I came away loaded with information, maps and a fresh insight into the area.

I was quite amazed as we moved on at the ever present and legendary Snowy River. It was bigger than I remembered. It begins on the slopes of Mount Kosciuszko and flows 352 kilometres to Bass Strait through Jindabyne in New South Wales and Orbost and Marlo in Victoria.

the Millie at Snowy River

Even though it’s not evident now but its flow was reduced to one percent in the mid 20th century with the construction of four large dams to create the Snowy River Hydro Electric scheme. It was immortilised in popular culture by Banjo Paterson’s poem, The Man from Snowy River.

Though it seems benign as we drove beside the river I could tell by the way that most of the farm houses along its way had been raised to above flood level that it would easily break its banks in high rain periods. The old Rail bridge and the highway too are elevated above the floodplain. It’s very easy to imagine the surrounding floodplain covered with the raging snowy river at its peak. I love seeing the differing types of countryside as we drive and I’m always on the lookout and fascinated by the gems of old buildings that I see. The more rustic and dilapidated the better and we saw some classics as we drove along!

A short journey from Orbost we arrived at Marlo, a quaint seaside town, “where the snowy River meets the sea”. It’s a tranquil place with several different accommodation options, a general store, cafe and large pub overlooking the river and coast. It has a unique position with its location on the Snowy and so close to the unspoilt beaches of the area. It’s a haven for year round fishing as well as bush walking, bird watching, water based activities and just relaxing. A great place to get away from it all.

As we continued on there was more evidence of the savage bushfires of early 2020 that burned through the coastal vegetation right down to the beaches. There are so many walks along the river and the coastal estuary and it’s so interesting to see the entrance where the Snowy does enter into Bass Strait. We finally arrived at our destination, Cape Conran, a much loved holiday and camping spot for generations of people. It was totally empty, save for a couple of surfers offshore and personally I preferred it this way. It always amazes me that we are so fortunate that you can still come to such a well known and popular spot and have it to yourself. This though is not the norm because in summer I’m told it’s a bustling campsite located just metres from stunning pristine beach of the cape.

The clean sandy beaches are bookended by rocky outcrops and are a perfect sheltered haven to enjoy long lazy days relaxing. As well as enjoying all the beachside activities there are many walks, some taking in the nearby Yeerung River. It really has everything for a nature filled getaway unfettered by shops and pizzaz. The main campground is Banksia Bluff which has fireplaces, shelter, bush showers and toilets. There are also self contained cabins and lodges available.

This is yet another of Gippsland’s gems that is known by many or maybe not, but it should be. A day trip was great but its perfect for longer than that to explore the whole area properly. I love passing through towns along the way like Bruthen or Nowa Nowa just for a look or on the way home you can take an alternate route and return via Lakes Entrance. After talking to the tourist information officer I realized just how many other areas there were to discover just off the beaten track.

GIPPSLAND IS OVERFLOWING WITH PLACES AND EXPERIENCES TO ENJOY, EXPERIENCE AND EXPLORE. MILLIE AND I LOOK FORWARD TO OUR NEXT ADVENTURE!