TRENDGAZING AUTUMN WINTER 17 T R E N D
MILAN FASHION WEEK 2017
F O R E C A S T I N G
BENEDETTA BARUCCO CHLOE BREWER JANALOU CRUZ
TRENDGAZING WHO ARE WE? Staying ahead of the curve. Keeping our eyes wide open and always looking at the sky beyond reach. As new suns emerge from the horizon and new star-trends are born, we create the tools to identify clear pathways from culture to product, and to ensure that our clients deliver content that is on trend and relevant to their target audience. Our mission is to help our clients make sense of the catalysts that drive our society by connecting the dots like in a constellation.
# KEEPING IT WEIRD SINCE 2001
q Independent London streetwear label founded in 2001 by Gemma Shiel. q Known for bold, graphic prints q Playful and humorous tone q Memphis style q References 1990s youth nostalgia q Strong online presence q Collaborates with cartoon brands, e.g. Garfield, Looney Toons, Disney
LAZY OAF
LAZY OAF
LAZY OAF AT SEEK TRADE SHOW, BERLIN. OWN IMAGE
The Lazy Oaf Girl
THE GIRL WHO HAS THE SENSE OF THE OUTSIDER. THE GIRL WHO, AT HIGH SCHOOL, FLOATS AROUND WITH ALL THE DIFFERENT SOCIAL GROUPS; SHE'S NOT REALLY PART OF ANY PARTICULAR SCENE. AND SHE'S INTO HER OWN GEEKY THINGS AND LIKES FASHION; SHE HAS A BIT OF A PUNK ATTITUDE, A BIT REBELLIOUS. / gemma shiel Coolhunting.com (2014)
CONSUMER PROFILE MOODBOARD. OWN WORK
TG
Collecting + Categorising + analysing
BLURRING LINES
THE CYBORG REALM V M
&
I N
S T O R E
The boundaries between products and ideas become less and less defined, and new hybrids are born out of this ambiguity.
LOL-ITICS P R I N T S
&
G R A P H I C S
THE KANYE EFFECT S P O R T S W E A R
THE CYBORG REALM VM & IN STORE
FRED BUTLER STYLE (WGSN)
THE CYBORG REALM VM & IN STORE Catwalks and brands will take the consumers on a journey between the real, the virtual, and the technological through vividly interactive experiences. To satisfy our needs for immediate communication, consumer electronics are beginning to untether from the smartphone. Stores will be integrating structured and layered pieces with mirror surfaces that subtly reference a retro sci-fi flair and will make use of technological advances to create immersive environments.
FRED BUTLER STYLE (WGSN)
INFLUENCED BY THE INCREASINGLY BLURRED LINE BETWEEN PEOPLE AND THE TECHNOLOGY THAT WE NOW HEAVILY RELY ON IN OUR DAY TO DAY LIVES. /
WGSN
2016
LEE KIRBY, PRO-JECT, UNORIGINAL SIN PT.III
Space utopia
Futuristic hype Magnetic Purple
Galactic green
alienation
Virtual escape
PREMIUM TRADE FAIR, BERLIN. OWN IMAGE
“DIGITAL LIFE HAS EVOLVED FROM BEING COLD AND UTILITARIAN TO BEING SENSORIAL AND INTERACTIVE.” LSN GLOBAL TALK (2016)
ATELIER BOW-WOW, ‘LIFE TUNNEL’
“THE IDEA OF HUMANNESS IS GOING TO CHANGE AS WE BECOME MORE CROSSED WITH ROBOTIC ABILITIES” Faith popcorn (2016)
ANREALAGE x SONY PLAYSTATION. ONLINE
INTEL ‘PROJECT ALLOY’ VR. ONLINE
VALENTINO MIRAGE LAUNCH (2017). ONLINE
ANISH KAPOOR, ’BLOOD MIRROR III’. WGSN
BMW HOLOACTIVE TOUCH. ONLINE
WE’RE FORMING OUR DEEPEST BONDS WITH TECHNOLOGY. THE MORE WE USE IT, THE MORE IT KNOWS US, CONFORMS TO US, ADAPTS TO US, HELPS US AND ANTICIPATES OUR WANTS AND NEEDS. /
??
FAITH
POPCORN (2016)
BLACK MIRROR, ‘WHITE CHRISTMAS’ (2016)
HER (2013)
PUBLISHING INDUSTRY: READERS SET TO RETREAT TO UTOPIA AND NOSTALGIA IN 2017 BECAUSE OF DONALD TRUMP AND BREXIT The Bookseller, 2016
EX MACHINA (2015)
ANREALAGE, PARIS SS17. ONLINE ADIDAS CONCEPTUAL POP UP STORE, BIKINI BERLIN . OWN IMAGE
“A MIX OF FUTURISTIC HIGH TECH AND PURE, FINE, NATURAL MATERIALS CREATES A SCIENCE FICTION MOOD THAT IS ABOVE ALL ANDROGYNOUS, FUNCTIONAL AND INTELLIGIBLE.” BERLIN FASHION WEEK MAGAZINE (2017)
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN’S LIMITED EDITION 3D-PRINTED UMBRELLA. ONLINE
RALPH LAUREN’S CONNECTED FITTING ROOMS. ONLINE
cyborg realm X
q q q q
Interactive wall prints (QR codes) Backstory of each garment Immersive experience Photobooths with filters and graphics BRAND DIRECTION MOODBOARD. OWN WORK
LOLITICS PRINTS & GRAPHICS
ASHIS FALL17 READY-TO-WEAR (VOGUE.COM)
LOLITICS PRINTS & GRAPHICS Turn your subversive feels into a fashion statement. Brands will be causing a stir with punchy prints, sassy slogans and crude statements. The lines are blurred between humour and tongue-in-cheek protests embellished with statements of solidarity and unity in bold and loud typefaces. Basic cotton tees and minimalist knitwear materials will dominate this trend. Bootleg is no longer fashion's “dismissed bastard child� but has now become a cult status.
ASHIS FALL17 READY-TO-WEAR (VOGUE.COM)
SOME MAY CLAIM THAT FASHION IS IRRELEVANT IN TIMES OF POLITICAL UNCERTAINTY, BUT OTHERS SEE FASHION AS A POWERFUL TOOL TO MAKE THEIR VOICES HEARD AND THEIR POLITICAL OPINIONS KNOWN. / FASHIONISTA
CREATURES OF COMFORT FW17, CNN
THE ELDER STASTEMAN.AW17. VOGUE
RUTH NEGGA AT OSCARS 2017. THE GUARDIAN
DURING THE CURRENT PERIOD OF POLITICAL UNREST, BRANDS ARE ASSERTING THEMSELVES IN A BID TO PROMOTE THE QUALITIES THAT THEY STAND FOR. LSN GLOBAL TALK (2016)
Pussy control
Nihilism Black matters
BERLIN SHOP WINDOW. OWN IMAGE Brexit blues
Rebellion red
ASHLEY WILLIAMS.AW17.VOGUE
PRABAL GURUNG AW17. VOGUE
MILAN FASHION WEEK AW17 BUSINESS OF FASHION
“EMOTION IS THE NEW CURRENCY.” THE DRUM NEWS (2016) LRS STUDIO, NYFW 2017
WALTER VAN BEIREND AW17. WGSN
LAZY OAF, E.T. HOODIE LUCIEN PELATT AW17
STRANGER THINGS POSTER
PEAR SHAPED. WGSN.
IRONY & HUMOUR
BOOTLEG ITEMS MARK THE WEARER AS ‘IN THE KNOW’ AND CLEVERLY BLURS THE LINES BETWEEN STREETWEAR AND CATWALK.
PALACE. WGSN.
CRITICISM TOWARDS BIG LABELS AND CORPORATIONS
PIZZA SKATEBOARDS. WGSN.
VETEMEMES RAINCOATS, 2016
/ WGSN ‘BOOTLEG CULTURE’ (2016)
BLURRING THE LINES BETWEEN GENDERED FASHION, INTERNET HYPE, CULTURE AND UPSCALE STREETWEAR FIENDS. / VETEMEMES (2016)
VETEMEMES 2016
POST-TRUTH SOCIETY
“word of the year” (Oxford Dictionaries)
q Blurred lines between truth and lies q ‘Backlash Brands’ (LSN Global) q Growing distrust of large corporations
WENDY NICHOL AW17. ONLINE LSN GLOBAL TALK 2016
POST-TRUTH ERA MOODBOARD. OWN WORK
AMERICA’S TRUST IN AMERICAN PEOPLE IS AT AN ALL-TIME LOW. PEOPLE ARE BLOCKING OUT MEDIA.
) (2016) / Washington post VICTOR ALFARO AW17. ONLINE
PRABAL GURUNG AW17. ONLINE
lol-itics X
q q q q
Political tone of voice Prints & badges Social media campaigns (hashtags) Appeals to consumer base
BRAND DIRECTION, OWN WORK
THE kANYE EFFECT SPORTSWEAR
KANYE WEST. ONLINE
THE kANYE EFFECT SPORTSWEAR Sportswear basics acquire a new status as they are established into day-to-day life. The line between work and play becomes blurred, and as our lives become more flexible, so do our clothes. The “IT� guys are all about stylish sportswear which scores top marks not only for performance, stamina and technology, but also style and aesthetic. Smart materials are engineered towards new standards of lightweight, technical and durable garments.
KANYE WEST. ONLINE
ATHLEISURE ISN’T NECESSARILY ABOUT WORKING OUT; IT’S THE OVERALL CONCEPT OF BEING ACTIVE, COMFORTABLE AND PUT TOGETHER. /
FAST
COMPANY (2017)
PARIS FW 2017 STREET STYLE. VOGUE ONLINE
“THE ACTIVE LIFESTYLE AND CULTURE HAS CHANGED, NOW IT’S A SOCIAL EXPERIENCE” ROCHELLE RAE (2017)
MILAN FASHION WEEK2017
“AS SOCIETY BECOMES MORE HEALTHCONSCIOUS, WELLNESS IS TRICKLING DOWN TO THE YOUNGEST GENERATION.” LSN GLOBAL EVENT (2016) MINISTRY DOES FITNESS.ONLINE
MILAN FASHION WEEK 2017 V.I.P. (VERY IMPORTANT PURPLE)
WHAT WOULD YEEZUS DO? LAID-BLACK
ALLI HARVEY / GETTY IMAGES FOR SPOTIFY
INSTA FIT
Anti-oxidant
SEEK TRADE FAIR, BERLIN. OWN IMAGE
KANYE WEST. GQ MAGAZINE YEEZY FASHION SHOW SEASON 1. ONLINE
“THE ATHLEISURE FASHION INDUSTRY IS PREDICTED TO GROW TO $83 BILLION BY 2020.” FORBES (2016)
KANYE WEST AND VIRGIL ABLOH. ONLINE
SEEK TRADE FAIR, BERLIN. OWN IMAGE
“[THE] DAY-TO-NIGHT LEOTARD IS POSSIBLY THE ULTIMATE DAY-TO-NIGHT FITNESS PIECE.” wgsn (2016)
THE UPSIDE. LEOTARD
THE LEOTARD BLURS THE BOUNDARIES BETWEEN FASHION AND SPORTS. /
IVY PARK. WGSN
WGSN
2016
“YOU MEET MORE PEOPLE AT THE GYM THAN AT A NIGHTCLUB OR GROCERY STORE. SO YOU WANT TO LOOK YOUR BEST.” ROCHELLE RAE 2017
VETEMENTS AW17
REEBOK
MAC’S ‘WORK IT OUT’ COLLECTION
#fitspo URBAN OUTFITTERS
BODY STUDIO, SELFRIDGES LONDON. OWN IMAGE
BERLIN FASHION WEEK 2017
“FOR THE FITNESS MILLENNIALS, HEALTH, STYLE AND SUSTAINABILITY ARE THE NORM.” WGSN (2016)
SWEAT COSMETICS FW STREETSTYLE, VOGUE (2017)
the kanye effect X
BRAND DIRECTION MOODBOARD. OWN WORK
q Create a transitional sportswear line q Leotards (inspired by their swimwear collection) q Gap in the market – fun and quirky rather than serious and sleek
THE ACTIVE LIFESTYLE AND CULTURE HAS CHANGED—GOING TO THE GYM, TO A YOGA OR PILATES CLASS IS MUCH MORE THAN JUST WORKING OUT. NOW IT’S A SOCIAL EXPERIENCE. /
ROCHELLE
RAE
2017
TEAM REFLECTION WHAT WENT WELL: q q q q q q
We met frequently and consistently We were all committed to the work We were all respectful of each other’s opinions We shared the workload equally We all contributed to primary and secondary research We looked at a range of secondary sources, both online and offline
WHAT CAN WE DO BETTER: q q q q q
Lay out a more organized plan at the start of the brief Research our brand more before choosing our final three trends Set up a shared Dropbox earlier Time management! Need to leave enough time to rehearse more to avoid using cue cards
TRENDGAZING
TRENDGAZING AUTUMN WINTER 17 T R E N D
THE CYBORG REALM
F O R E C A S T I N G
LOL-ITICS
THE KANYE EFFECT BENEDETTA BARUCCO CHLOE BREWER JANALOU CRUZ