EMPOWER UP! Trend s/s 2020
Jandira Torquato Sara Muttilainen Stefani Kostova Vanina Ndala
Figure 1
Yujun Liang
Economic, social influences
The macro trend “empower up” focus in inclusivity and ethics. Giving voice to minorities or groups that didn’t have a voice. Targeting Generation Z and Millennials who are worried in solving social issues as Gender inequality, Racial injustice, Gun control and policy, Political awareness-vote Diversity in industry Transparency and ethics from government and companies. • Brands that practice socially responsible Marketing. • • • • • •
Figure 2
The movements Social media have a important role in this global fight for equality especially for women, immigrants, black people, Muslim (and the right of using hijab) and LGBTQIA use this platform to express creative freedom. The socioeconomic changes are also made by protests (due a their do attitude)and helped by organizations, companies or even celebrities.
Figure 3
Women's March •
#BlackLivesMatter Figure 4
•
#Metoo
•
Time's Up
•
We the People; We the Indivisible, We the Resilient.
Figure 5
Social actions Figure 8
Some designers made Political Statements At New York Fashion Week 2017
Brands are getting more sustainables and more social responsible. Some went Fur-free; some signed plastic economy commitement
Figure 9
Valentina Sampaio, Brazilian transgender model in the cover of French Vogue March2017
Celebrities stand against pay disparity, misconduct and discrimination wearing all black in red carpet of some awards show
Figure 11
Figure 6
Figure 7
Afropunk Fest is an world annual arts festival that includes live music, film, fashion, and art produced by black artists
Figure 10
Cultural Influences "Black Pather" A movie or a movement? Figure 12
Figure 16
Figure 13
Fugure 14
“It’s a big story that deserves to be told in a big way, for all of the cultural and political reasons that people talk about.” - Marvel Kevin Feige
Figure 15
Figure 17
Athletes and Musicians Influencers ##WhatBlackPantherMeansToMe
Figure 23 Figure 18
Fugure 19
Figure 22 Figure 2 1
Figure 24 Figure 20
Figure 25
What is Empower Up?
•
Zac Posen said « the purpose of fashion is to empower »
•
A mindset, a concept before being a trend
•
The time of being always perfect is over
•
Expressing yourself through fashion
•
Expressing an opinion without saying anything
Figure 26: Zadig & Voltaire
Figure 27: Prabal Gurung 2017
Wearing what you think •
Empowerment slogans on accessories
•
Protest t-shirt
Figure 28: Dior 2018
Figure 29: Versace 2018
Figure 30: Versace 2018
Figure 31: Dior 2018
Figure 32: Off-White2018
Figure 33: Ashish 2017
Figure 34: Alexander McQueen
Suit yourself •
Suits are more androgynous
Figure 35: Stella McCartney
Figure 36: Balenciaga
Colourful mix and match •
Mixing prints
•
Colourful garments
•
Patterned bags Figure 41: Versace Spring 2018
Figure 37 : Chloé Spring 2018
Figure 38: Dries Van Noten Spring Figure 39: Balenciaga 2018
Figure 40: Gucci, Calvin Klein and Oscar De La Renta
Figure 43: Courtesy of Rich Minsi Figure 44: Tongoro
Figure 42: Orange Culture
Figure 46: Helmut Lang
Range of different textures •
Figure 45: Vitelli
Figure 47 : Zadig & Voltaire
Soft material like wool, plush terry, cashmere or mohair
•
Transparent plastic
Figure 48: Miu Miu
Figure 49: Calvin Klein
Leather using in so many different way
Figure 50: Valentino
Figure 51: Calvin Klein
Figure 52: Chanel Spring 2018
Figure 53: Chanel Spring 2018
Figure 54: Helmut Lang Spring 2018
Accessories in new shapes •
Sunglasses : tiny, skinny and sleek sleek
Figure 55: Adam Selman Spring 2018
Figure 56: Prada Spring 2018
Figure 57: MSGM Spring 2018
•
Bags : it’s more about geometric forms than a lady bag
Figure 58: Gabirela Hearst Spring 2018
Figure 59: Mugler Spring 2018
Figure 60: Lemaire Spring 2018
Hats: designed for every temperature
Figure 61: Jacquemus Spring 2018
Figure 62: Micheal Kors Spring 2018
Figure 63: Arthur Arbessr Spring 2018
Market level 1. Product category – All products 2. Product type – Casualwear, sportswear
Figure 64 – March for our lives, Washington
3. Market level – Mass Market and Luxury Market 4. Location - Global
(Posner, 2017) (WGSN, 2018)
Figure 65 – Market level pyramid
•
Mass Market is a level with higher quality but still a relatively cheap price
•
Affordable for Gen Z, everyone can feel included
•
Mass Market brands can listen to their customers, follow trends and help Generation Z make a difference
(Create A Fashion Brand, 2018) (WGSN, 2018)
Mass Market High Street
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Diffusion Brands are secondary lines made by the luxury market for a cheaper range of products
•
When government fails to help, corporations will take action
•
Generation Z expects brands to be more ethical
(WGSN, 2018) (Hancock, 2017)
"Generation Z is the most environmentally and socially 'aware' consumer market yet"
Diffusion Brands Luxury Brands
Which brand can display empower up?
ZARA ——Mass Market
• Low price and high sales
• Like catch hottest trends
•
（ Figure66 Zara Capsule 'Rolling Stones' 2016 ）
Had many similar experience
（ Figure 67 Zara,SS18 ）
Vivienne Westwood ——Luxury market
• Luxury Brand Stand is leadership • Innovators are easy to see • Enough strength
Figure68(Vivienne Westwood 2019ss)
Figure69(London fashion week2013ss)
Figure70(Vivienne Westwood 2019ss)
CONCLUSION
Thanks �
Figure 1 – Moodboard. [images online] Avaiable at www.pinterest.com [accessed 25 Nov. 2018]
Figure 2 – Moodboard. [images online] (accessed 25 Nov. 2018)
Table of illustrations
Figure 3 – Slogan #BlackLivesMatter [image] avaiable at: http://scooterm.blogspot.com/2015/08/i-dont-understand-end-game-for.html (accessed 25 Nov. 2018)
Figure 4 – Hastag MeToo [image] avaiable at: https://www.timescolonist.com/news/local/metoo-women-in-the-newsroom-and-the-community-share-their-stories-1.23070883 [accessed 25 Nov. 2018]
Figure 5 –picture from a Women's March (2018) [online] avaible at: https://edition.cnn.com/2017/01/21/us/gallery/womens-march-on-washington/index.html (accessed 25 Nov. 2018
Figure 6 – Prabal Gurung Fashion show 2017 [online] avaiable at: https://edition.cnn.com/2017/01/21/us/gallery/womens-march-on-washington/index.html
Figure 7 - Anon, (2018). [image] Available at: https://www.express.co.uk/life-style/style/901377/golden-globes-2018-celebrities-wearing-black-times-up-metoo [Accessed 26 Nov. 2018].
Figure 8 - https://www.elle.com/uk/fashion/a24422535/burberry-hm-new-plastics-economy-global-commitment/. (2018). [image].
Figure 9 - Anon, (2018). [image] Available at: https://www.elle.com/uk/fashion/g25045050/fur-free-luxury-designers-fashion-houses/ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2018].
Figure 10 - https://www.thelocal.fr/20170215/french-vogue-puts-transgender-on-its-cover-for-first-time. (2018). [image].
Figure 11 - [online image] www.pinterest.com [accessed 25 Nov. 2018]
Figure 12-Anon, (2018). [image] Available at: https://lemuslimpost.com/black-panther-deja-ralliement-gestuel-autour-de-wakanda.html [Accessed 26 Nov. 2018].
Figure 13-Anon, (2018). [image] Available at: Anon, (2018). [image] Available at: https://lemuslimpost.com/black-panther-deja-ralliement-gestuel-autour-de-wakanda.html [Accessed 26 Nov. 2018]. [Accessed 26 Nov. 2018].
Figure 14-Anon, (2018). [image] Available at: https://www.ndtv.com/entertainment/black-panther-movie-review-is-this-the-finest-marvel-film-of-all-time-1813416 [Accessed 26 Nov. 2018].
Figure 15- Anon, (2018). [image] Available at: https://www.teenvogue.com/gallery/black-panther-costume-designer-ruth-e-carter-interview [Accessed 26 Nov. 2018].
Figure 16- Anon, (2018). [image] Available at: http://generations224.com/tag/films-2018/ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2018].
Figure 17-Anon, (2018). [image] Available at: https://www.telegraph.co.uk/films/0/black-panther-spoilers-big-questions-next-tchalla-do-post-credits/ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2018].
Figure 18-Anon, (2018). [image] Available at: https://www.tennismagazin.de/news/gael-monfils-black-panther-rassismus-indian-wells/ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2018].
Figure 19-Anon, (2018). [image] Available at: https://www.tennismagazin.de/news/gael-monfils-black-panther-rassismus-indian-wells/ [Accessed 26 Nov. 2018].
Figure 20- https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjA2qT1hvLeAhVJsqQKHQPXDtkQjhx6BAgBEAM&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.cnet.com%2Fnews%2Fblack-panther-inspires-athletes-wakanda-forever-salute %2F&psig=AOvVaw3eiBc8apbjb0TUI8EdNu45&ust=1543321188835543. (2018). [image].
Figure 21-https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjA2qT1hvLeAhVJsqQKHQPXDtkQjhx6BAgBEAM&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.cnet.com%2Fnews%2Fblack-panther-inspires-athletes-wakanda-forever-salute %2F&psig=AOvVaw3eiBc8apbjb0TUI8EdNu45&ust=1543321188835543. (2018). [image].
Figure 22-Anon, (2018). [image] Available at: https://www.google.com/search?q=nice+for+what&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj30IXeh_LeAhUQOsAKHcxhAwgQ_AUIECgD&biw=1920&bih=971#imgrc=OoXrxt7TeLx2LM: [Accessed 26 Nov. 2018].
Figure 26: Dubai Pr Network (2017) ‘Zadig & Voltaire - Girls Can Do Anything’ [online] Available from <http://www.dubaiprnetwork.com/m/pr.asp?pr=122411> [24 November 2018] Figure 27: Huret, L. (2017) ‘Fashion week de New York – Autumn/Hiver 2017-2018’ Tendance De Mode [online] 17 February. Available from < https://www.tendances-de-mode.com/2017/02/17/3717-fashion-week-de-new-york-automne-hiver-2017-2018> [24 November 2018] Figure 28: Madsen, A. (2017) ‘Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2018 Ready-To-Wear Collection’. Vogue [online] 26 September. Available from < https://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/spring-summer-2018-ready-to-wear/christian-dior/collection> [25 November 2018] Figure 29: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/versace/slideshow/collection Figure 30: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/versace/slideshow/collection Figure 32: https://footwearnews.com/gallery/off-white-fall-2017-ready-to-wear-paris-fashion-week/#!4/off-white-paris-fashion-week-fall-2017-25b Figure 33: Shepard, C. (2017) ‘Ashish had a message for Trump at LFW yesterday’. Glamour [online] 21 February. Available from < https://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/gallery/ashish-political-fashion-show-autumn-winter-2017> [22 November 2018] Figure 34 to 36: Mikhondo, N. (2018) ‘9 key fashion trends that'll shape the way you dress this autumn’. Sunday Times [online] 25 March. Available from <https://www.timeslive.co.za/sunday-times/lifestyle/fashion-and-beauty/2018-03-24-9-key-fashion-trends-thatll-shape-the-way-you-dress-this-autumnwinter/>[23 November 2018] Figure 37 to 41: Burney, E. (2018) ‘10 Trends Everyone Will Be Wearing In 2018’. Vogue [online] 2 January. Available from < https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/10-trends-to-try-in-2018> [22 November 2018] Figure 42 to 43: Haddad, M. (2018) ‘5 African Designers That Should Be On Your Fashion Radar’ Hong Kong Tatler [online] 30 July. Available from < https://hk.asiatatler.com/style/african-designers-that-should-be-on-your-fashion-radar> [22 November 2018] Figure 45: Olivia, S. (2017) ‘Jumpers for 2018: knitwear styles and brands to know’. Vogue [online] 17 October. Available from <https://www.vogue.it/en/fashion/trends/2017/10/17/knitwear-2018-winter-collection/> [24 November 2018] Figure 46 : https://www.matchesfashion.com/mens/the-style-report/2017/12/the-new-season-issue/style-news-texture-trend-culture-ss18 Figure 47: Olivia, S. (2017) ‘Jumpers for 2018: knitwear styles and brands to know’. Vogue [online] 17 October. Available from <https://www.vogue.it/en/fashion/trends/2017/10/17/knitwear-2018-winter-collection/> [24 November 2018] Figure48 to 51: Mikhondo, N. (2018) ‘9 key fashion trends that'll shape the way you dress this autumn’. Sunday Times [online] 25 March. Available from <https://www.timeslive.co.za/sunday-times/lifestyle/fashion-and-beauty/2018-03-24-9-key-fashion-trends-thatll-shape-the-way-you-dress-this-autumnwinter/>[23 November 2018] Slide Figure 52 to 63: Yotka, S. (2017) ‘11 Top Accessory Trends of Spring 2018’. Vogue [online] 12 October. Available from <https://www.vogue.com/article/spring-2018-accessory-trend-report> [22 November 2018] Figure 64 – March for our lives, Washington: WGSN (2018). [image] Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/the-vision-2020-the-macro-trends-that-will-design-the-future/ [Accessed 21 Nov. 2018]. Figure 65 – Market level pyramid: Tutt, J. (2018). [image] Available at: http://jasminetutt.blogspot.com/2016/11/fashion-market-levels.html [Accessed 21 Nov. 2018]. Figure 66 - Eaton, M. (2018). Shon - Zara Capsule 'Rol;ling Stones' 2016. [online] Julianwatsonagency.com. Available at: http://www.julianwatsonagency.com/news/shon-zara-capsule-rol-ling-stones-2016 [Accessed 22 Nov. 2018]. Figure 67 -Graafland, A. (2018). How Friends inspired t-shirts are this summer's must-have. [online] mirror. Available at: https://www.mirror.co.uk/3am/style/celebrity-fashion/how-friends-inspired-shirts-shaping-13003542 [Accessed 22 Nov. 2018]. Figure 68 and Figure 69 -Dazed. (2018). ‘Buy less, dress up!’ says Vivienne Westwood on her new collection. [online] Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/beauty/fashion/article/41350/1/vivienne-westwood-ss19-lookbook-campaign-film-buy-less-dress-up [Accessed 22 Nov. 2018].
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