Jane.F Dissertation 2016

Jie Fu 200749920

Are illustrative style pattern acclaimed in future young women fashion market?

This dissertation is submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements for Degree of Bachelor of Arts in Textile Design.

School of Design University of Leeds

16th, March, 2016

1. Abstract Fashion is an extensive market consistently reflecting the trends of social ethos, youthful spirits and new ideas gradually surpassing the earlier ones. Along with the progress of mass media and printing technology, illustrative style became popular in design fields. (Blum. S, 1981) Indeed, many luxury fashion brands such as ‘Prada’ and ‘Versace’ have adopted illustrative elements into their fashion collections for young females. This dissertation aims to examine that whether illustrative patterns have an extendable future in youth fashion market by investigating a range of primary and secondary researches to address the following debates. Firstly, by observing the innovation of illustrations from different art movements, are any illustrative styles pattern well-established? Secondly, whether several specific features for each illustrative style can be classified and which styles are popular in fashion market?

Thirdly, how future techniques can efficiently support the illustrative style pattern developing in the fashion market? Finally, how does illustrative pattern, acclaimed in fashion market regard the customer’s perception?

Overall, abundant secondary researches will identify numerous illustrative pattern styles from several art movements (E.g. Art Nouveau, Pop Art and Contemporary visual art); various designers, artists or commercial design examples will be analysed in order to understand how they expanded their creative ideas; and some opportunities of future technology will be evaluated within the literature review. Moreover, other primary research will be conducted through questionnaires and short interviews with the consumers aged from 18 to 25, especially concerning their opinions on illustrative patterns. Eventually, a conclusion will be reached.

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Content 1. Abstract ............................................................................................................... 2 2. Introduction ........................................................................................................ 6 2.1

Purpose of this research ........................................................................... 6

2.2

Overview of the research ........................................................................ 6

2.3

Illustrative style pattern market................................................................ 6

2.4

Objectives of the Research ....................................................................... 7

2.5

Scope of Study .......................................................................................... 8

3. Literature Review ................................................................................................ 9 3.1

Introduction .............................................................................................. 9

3.2

llustrative style I Art Nouveau period (1890–1918).................................. 9 3.2.1

Art Nouveau illustrative style: Alphonse Mucha ...................... 11

3.2.2

Art Nouveau illustrative style: Eugène Grasset ......................... 13

3.2.3

Contemporary Designer: Miuccia Prada ................................... 14

3.2.4

Summary ................................................................................... 15

3.3. Illustrative style II Pop Art, a movement in 1960s ................................. 16

3.4

3.3.1

Pop art abstract illustrative style: Andy Warhol ....................... 17

3.3.2

Pop art Manga style: Roy Lichtenstein ...................................... 18

3.3.3

Modern designers or fashion brands examples ........................ 19

3.3.4

Summary ................................................................................... 21

Illustrative style III Contemporary Illustrative Visual Art ...................... 22 3.4.1

Animation or Cartoon pattern design: Disney .......................... 22

3.4.2

Original story style pattern design ............................................ 26

3.4.3

Contemporary Simplified style: Potipoti ................................. 28

3.4.4

Summary ................................................................................... 29 3

3.5

Future technology ............................................................................... ..30 3.5.1

3.6

Summary ................................................................................... 33

Contemporary perspective and research question ............................ 34

4. Methodology..................................................................................................... 36 4.1

Quantitative Methods ........................................................................... 36

4.2

Quantitative Methods ........................................................................... 37

4.3

Analysis Methods and Data Collection ................................................. 38

4.4

Limitation .............................................................................................. 38

4.5

Future Consideration ............................................................................ 39

5. Result andResult and Analysis Analysis ............................................................ 40 5.1

Focus Group Research Questionaire ..................................................... 40

5.2

Questionaire Result and Analysis.......................................................... 41

5.3

5.4 6.

5.2.1

Part I: Nationality, Age and Financial Distribution .................... 41

5.2.2

Part II: Consumer behaviour and preference ............................ 43

5.2.3

Part III: Part III: Likert scale........................................................ 45

Interview Questionaire Result and Analysis ......................................... 46 5.3.1

Part IV a): Ranking the illustrative style patterns ...................... 46

5.3.2

Part IV b) and c): Interviewees' personal preference ............... 48

5.3.3

Part V: Future Perspective and.................................................. 51

Hypothesis Discussion and Summary ................................................... 53

Conclusion ......................................................................................................... 55 6.1. Objective Fulfilment .................................................................................. 55 6.2. Evaluation.................................................................................................. 56 6.3. Further Consideration ............................................................................... 57

7. Bibliography .................................................................................................... 58 Appendix A: Interview Question Design .................................................................. 78 4

Appendix B: Questionnaire and Interview Question Results................................... 65 Appendix C: Interview Feedbacks ............................................................................ 69 List of Figures ........................................................................................................... 95 List of Fig Collection ............................................................................................... 102 11503 Words

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2. Introduction 2.1 Purpose of this research This research study aims to investigate the popularity of illustrative style patterns in fashion market by discovering the influence of traditional illustration’s innovation, designer’s ideation and the actual customer perception in reality. This research will be helpful to classify the well-established illustrative pattern styles. By considering consumers’ opinions to answer that if illustrative pattern is acclaimed, then this study may be able to forecast whether illustrative style pattern has a potential future in young women fashion market.

2.2 Research Background Fashion trends often can reflect art movement, Cultural Revolution and spirit of youth of the time (Fukai. A, et al, 2002 and Blum. S, 1981) After warfare, industrial growth and innovation of mass media, various pictorial patterns are beautifully printed on garments, thus, it benefits the illustrative patterns extend into an unique style in fashion market.

2.3 Illustrative style pattern market Late eighteenth century artists around the world generated vast amounts of illustrative designs which also advanced the textile, fashion and graphic design markets. (Rheims.

M, 1966) Later, the innovation of animation, cartoon and pop cultural brought more diversified ideas into illustrative pattern design that allows designers to use more cartoon characters within their artworks. Nowadays, illustrative style patterns continuously renew it-self via combining different art elements from time to time.

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“Due to the nature of the printing process and the variety of materials that can be used as substrates, advanced technology is increasing the breadth and scope of what designers are able to incorporate within their work.”(Carden, 2015, P.81) Hence, printing technology really can provide more drawing techniques for designers such as digital painting so challengeable patterns can be ever-increasingly printed from screen.

As fashion is one of the forefront markets where illustrative patterns frequently appeared, it provides an opportunity to see if it will consistently develop as a popular fashion trend in future markets.

2.4 Objectives of the Research In General, designer’s creative expressions are closely associated with their life circumstance, social status and art background; it is difficult to classify their works into different illustrative style patterns. However, it is appropriate to observe the innovation of traditional illustrations and designer’s ideations from existed art movements to identify some influential illustrative style patterns’ features as art history is a part of humanities. (Gombrich, 1987) Therefore, relevant research will be covered in the following literature review; some well-established illustrative patterns in fashion market will be mentioned in details.

Moreover, a separate primary research in the real market is necessary as this will prove that if illustrative style pattern is acclaimed in fashion market by collecting consumer’s opinions.

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The list below shows the objectives of this research: 1. Reviewing numerous art movements to identify well-established styles of illustrative pattern in fashion market.

2. Analysing designer’s works to clarify each illustrative style patterns’ characteristic.

3. Discussing the opportunities and limitations that arise by the progress of new technology.

4. Investigating the popularity of illustrative pattern from the fashion market.

5. Examining the consumer’s opinions and reactions.

6. Summary how illustrative style pattern is acclaimed in fashion market.

2.5 Scope of Study A comprehensive literature review will be shown in chapter 3. Then, a methodology section will be introduced. Next stage, a primary market research will be explored in depth regarding both Asian and Western consumers. In terms of sexual personality, women tends to be more visually oriented and more concerned about life details (Trier A, 2014) so females were chosen as the major target audience in this research. Besides, youth fashion trends usually move quickly and are more willing to accept bold ideas and illustrative styles, consequently, young women from 18 to 25 were selected as the focus group in the coming research investigation.

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3. Literature Review 3.1 Introduction Comprehensive numbers of publications, academic articles and case studies will discuss the application of illustrative pattern design in this extensive literature review, especially focused on young women fashion market. Three important art movements influenced the development of illustrative style pattern design introduced in the late eighteenth century, they are: Art Nouveau, Pop Art and modern visual art. Each art movement will be covered in detail to clarify the existing illustrative styles of pattern through exploring several artists and designers’ works. Moreover, the future consideration about the opportunities and limitations of new technology will be covered as a separate section. In terms of the contemporary perspective, this section will summarise the key well-established illustrative style patterns in fashion market and set up a few more hypotheses for the market research in Chapter 5, P. 40.

3.2 Illustrative style I Art Nouveau Period (1890–1910) During 19th century, culture diffusion broke Christian’s dominant social status; and with the progress of science and technology, it brought new discoveries of artificial material, plus inspiration from beauty of nature, craft revival, influences of eclecticism.

Moreover, historicism introduced varied notable innovations and new ideas to the world, especially Neo-Gothic, Rococo, Baroque and Classicism. (Howard. J, 1996) Although Art Nouveau had been blurred by scholars for a long time which reflects the struggle in the world, people eventually recognized its charm and famed this particular art period as’ an astonishing flowering’ trend in France, afterward it became popular in the entire western world. (Buffet Challié. L, 1982).

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In terms of the interferences from the world, it leads artists eclectically adapting different culture confusions into new combinations. Consequently, there are several characteristics of Art Nouveau style of designs or drawings found: natural forms of plants are the major component for Art Nouveau period as it is neutral, anti-war and far more positive, most of designs or artworks are inspired by various floral, cirrus, leaves and branches; artist seems quite enthusiastic about using curve or plants shapes to replace straight lines; female body, animal, botanic motifs and landscapes as the drawing motifs coalesced together as marquetry onto a flat surface; many sophisticated depicts were generated in order to create certain symbols, meanings and interactions for artworks or design. Artists also tried to intentionally add imagery to the undulating lines in their works, the so-called fluid whiplash lines. (Sparke. P et al, 1992) Likewise, this particular style of drawing method is moderately pictorial and deeply rooted in twenty century design and art.

Owing to the advent of the first war and revolutions in industry, it predominantly encouraged simplified style to boost the manufacture production; some picturesque lines adapted Asian, especially the influence of Japonism. (Buffet ChalliĂŠ. L, 1982) Hence, there are multifarious printable designs generated during this great art period which benefits textile, fashion, graphic markets and other art fields. (Rheims. M, 1966) The following section will introduce two historical artists and how they present illustrative elements in their work according to Art Nouveau style. Then, a contemporary fashion designer will be covered in order to explain how the modern illustrative pattern design blended the Art Nouveau ideas in their collection.

3.2.1 Art Nouveau illustrative style: Alphonse Mucha Tracing William Morris’s steps who created a range of pattern designs of organic plants 10

mixed with pictorial of floral motifs by observing the creation of nature during Art Craft time movement. (Waffoner. D, 2003) Similar drawing techniques and design methods consistantly appear in designers’ work since late 18th century, therefore, many historians marked William as the forerunner of Art Nouveau. (Maly and Dietfried. G, 1979) Alphonse Mucha is one of Williams followers who frequently used botanic layers as repeat background in his illustrations to describe natural, nourished and mild atmosphere by intentionally positioning the plants motifs as a part of decorative patterns with simplified outline and pale pastel colours.(Kiroff. B,2015) Besides, he concerns about the repeat structures and scales of his artwork as illustrative designs often have certain frames, including specified sizes. (E. g the poster, wall decoration or mosaic window), so that Mucha’s works can almost read as a piece of drawing, it is challengeable to range paintings into different repeat compositions, unless block repeat. (Fig Collection 1) As an illustrator, Mucha is keen to present emotions and stories, resulting in his drawings often containing hidden messages in order to attract people’s attentions. (Fig. 1), this particular design is a poster for business printing, which can be viewed as a beautiful lady holding an opened book. (Sato. T, 2015) Concurrently, this example tries to imply the following messages: This poster aims to encourage people to read the book as the elegant beauty in the picture or ‘reading can bring the sensation of a spring day’. According to the background scenery and quiet beauty in the poster, it demonstrated a combination of botanic motifs, contrast colour of light green and pink that creates a scene of spring. On the other hands, it indicates that use of motifs; colours and layouts are the key tools to present certain atmospheres for an illustrative design. (Similar to people use bright red and green colour especially for Christmas today) Although it seems that repeat structures are less important in these illustrative 11

designs, Mucha chose mirror reflection to conduct repeat effects for the background hierarchy of the illustration. It manifests that Mucha can said to be the beginner who combined repeat pattern components within pictorial designs.

Since Mucha is well-known in nineteenth century, his drawing style brought significant impacts to art world; in the meantime illustrative style became more acclaimed in wide applications. Even luxury brand’s designers Miuccia Prada adopted his concept of nymphs theme and illustrative drawing style to modern lady fashion design, which will be elaborated more in section 3.2.3 (P.14), some contemporary pattern designs for woman dress reused Mucha’s drawings and prints onto garment design in 21st century (Fig collection 4). Alphonse Mucha was not a typical pattern designer, but his representative pale colour palette, lush plants motifs and beautiful women impressively influenced the development of illustrative style pattern design in fashion market. More examples Mucha’s works are displayed in Fig Collection 1 when he tries to mix other geometric motifs into his designs as the repeat pattern as a background layer (E.g. starry sky)

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3.2.2 Art Nouveau illustrative style: Eugène Grasset Grasset is another famous illustrator and pattern designer from Art Nouveau. However, his designs adapted more exotic elements. Due to the culture diffusion inherited from the advent of first war and revolution of industry, he mixed both Japanese and medieval motifs in illustration and pattern design. Numerous scholars named him as another pioneer of Art Nouveau. (Grasset. E, 1988) Under the influence of Japanese art, Grasset skilfully joined the stylised fluid curves motifs together as the main rhythm of the pattern design. Different from Mucha, he prefers darker and saturated colours rather than pale hue, whilst he is concentrated on systematized ornaments, borders or friezes patterns. Grasset shows different contrasts between illustration and repeat pattern design. (Grasset. E, N. A.)For example, the sun flowers are less regular repeated but more pictorial in his illustration that compared to the actual repeat pattern design. (Fig. 2.)

Mucha and Grasset both tend to apply plant forms of motifs in their design but there are many distinctions between their works: Mucha’s drawing lines are elfish, smooth with less regular, he is fond of using pale pastel colours in his collections, so that his designs usually are comparatively gentle and aesthetic. However, Grasset’s lines are thicker and well-organized as he is bias toward dim colours with coherent repeats, it seems that his design style is relatively solemn and restrained. (Fig collection 2)

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3.2.3 Contemporary Designer: Miuccia Prada Luxury brand ‘Prada’s owner that who is a bold and innovative Italian fashion designer.

She keeps bringing novel and new ideas into fashion market although many fashion editors comment that her designs are too risky and impractical. (Emmis Communications, 1998) On behalf of her ideation principle: “fashion can make woman powerful without losing their femininity” (Hoffmann. J and Lecamp. L, 2015, P. 118); she made countless efforts of apparel design for woman today.

In 2008, Prada launched a series of ‘mysterious fairies’ for spring fashion collection, it adopted various illustrative elements in her Prada fairies design for young female garments. Both concepts of fairies theme and drawing methods adequately familiar to Mucha’s nymph collection, undoubtedly it reflects certain degree of extension of Art Nouveau illustrative styles. (Chapter 3.2 Paragraphs 2, P. 10) By reviewing the runway photos from Fig collection 3, Prada created numerous fairies coalesced with multi-coloured plants to decorate the dresses which are similar to Mucha’s illustrative style drawing methods. Apart from depicting the Prada fairies’ portraits as a piece of impressive drawing, she tried to generate more repeat composition to reveal the Prada fairies’ beauty in different symmetric operations by using mirror reflect effects, multiple repeat and block repeat structures. In terms of colour preference, she chose a range of colours in the collection to demonstrate different stages of beauty in the life of women. For example, pale and vivid hues repute pure and innocent youth; darker hues and matt colours mean the darkness of adolescence. (VOGUE, 2007) Whereas, the entire colour palette in this particular collection is inclined to dark-colour design, which is familiar to Grasset’s colour preference.

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Overall, this collection is relatively conservative, wearable and well embodies the female beauty as the cutting and pattern designs are appropriately matched in harmonious form.

3.2.4 Summary From 1900s to now, a number of artists or designers conducted many pictorial drawings, patterns or fashion designs; it seems that Art Nouveau illustrative style really can be defined as an unique style in pattern designs, especially in young women fashion market. There are several traits that shows the rhythm of modularity of illustrative pattern design which often appears with strong pictorial drawing as the predominant style, this is similar to the illustrations from fairy-tales or story books; animals, human portraits and fairy tale characters are the popular motifs frequently appearing either once or more in the pattern design; other details are usually filled by floral, geometric or other motifs with rich shades. Consequently, Art Nouveau illustrative pattern designs tend to trace archaistic, exquisite and story style, and can be viewed as an influential illustrative style in pattern design.

Along with the progress of printing technology, many historical artists’ pictorial drawings have been printed onto fabrics, including some of Alphonse Mucha’s stylish nymphs. (Fig collection 4) Despite contemporary designers not having exquisite painting skills; they always try to redesign other famous artists’ artworks and put them into repeat. It seems that Art Nouveau illustrative style pattern designs regain the favour of people; certainly, it can be defined as well-established illustrative pattern style in fashion market.

The following section will introduce another art period that significantly influences the development of illustrative style pattern in fashion market.

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3.3 Illustrative style II Pop Art, a movement in 1960s Along with the industrial revolution and the progress of mass media, it leads designer’s creative expression shifted from aesthetic art to ‘myths of everyday life’ during 1960s, scholars highlight this historical movement as Pop Art as a collective term to describe artist phenomena.(Ostwerwold. T, 1991) In other words, artists achieved great breakthroughs in terms of design inspirations. On the other hands, it echoes that artists and designers started to explore and seize creative ideas based on trifles of daily life such as Pop idols’ portraits, illustrations from Manga, even food packaging.

Therefore, any little things in people’s everyday life can be consider as the origin of design ideas by reason that the design process is not just confined to art aspects but extend to environment design fields. (Livingstone. M, 2000) In contrast to Art Nouveau period, designers moved their attention from nature beauty to popular culture via reinterpreting the existed images, paintings or photos from mass media, including advertisements, photography, comic strips or other relevant sources.

Due to the development of new media, pop culture images are increasingly spread in art and design. Andy Warhol and Roy Lichtenstein are the beginners of Pop Art famed in fashion market (Richard. L, 1997), many other modern designers tried to apply their illustrative style in drawing fashion design as s key illustrative style runner in Pop Art movement.

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3.3.1 Pop art abstract illustrative style: Andy Warhol This American artist is interested in photography and drawing. (Warhol. A, 2004) Meanwhile, Warhol is also an illustrator, actor, producer and designer across art, film and fashion fields. Owing to his growth background and working experiences, he comprehensively gathered countless elements of popular culture into art to celebrate the daily things in his life. (Honnef. K. 1990) Hence, his designs are relatively colourful, neoteric and lively, which exposed 60s social status, fashion trends and people’s lifestyle.

By observing Warhol ‘s drawings and prints, it seems that he is more likely to use whimsy illustrative techniques in his artworks such as a cat’s smiling face on women's shoes; recolour celebrities’ portraits with dramatic contrast colours; and transfer the can soup package into pattern design. (Fig Collection 5) These design concepts are far more new-fangled yet critically acclaimed. In addition, people comment that ‘Warhol was intrigued by human face’ (Nicholas. B, 1999) because he applied many novel ways to recolour a range of portraits as the ancient painting Mona Lisa or famous actress Marilyn’s mug shot, as long as the images of human countenances are fashionable and stylish enough, they can be used as his inspiration of graffiti.

Compared to the fine drawing style from Art Nouveau, Warhol’s printings are focused on tracing the basic contour of human face so his designs only outline the design objects in abstract forms. In spite of using limited elementary colours (E. g. Cyan, magenta, yellow, white and black) to paint the portraits, the entire version is innovative and impressive. And to some extent, Warhol’s works slightly lack obvious illustrative elements or meanings as he consistently concentrates on few objects (or just one portrait) in a design. However, according to Fig. 3, He employed collage technique to abstractly blend numerous prints of men and women’s facial expressions 17

into repeat pattern for dress design; each face appears with distinctive emotions that illustratively voices different moods. As a result, it is evident that Andy Warhol’s design style can be labelled as an abstract illustrative style pattern style.

3.3.2 Pop art Manga style: Roy Lichtenstein Both Warhol and Lichtenstein are the representatives of minimalistic expressionists use of colour, Lichtenstein is enthusiastic about limitedly applying only four colours with black and white to present the light and shadow within a design by abstractly gathering print, collage or art book reductions methods with dripping paint techniques.

(Calvin. T, 1994) Thus, most of his drawings blended series lines with different widths to compose the human’s faces in understated version. Lichtenstein also is good at adding speaking babbles into the paintings to generate messages for readers, as the manga lady with a sadness mood in Fig. 4. This particular painting can be associated with the actress’s facial expression from television or movie in 1960s. Later, people denote that his drawings obtained the major influence of cubism and futurism as he often merged Lithography Bendy dots and flattened colours to produce near-abstract style prints. (New York Media, 1981) Moreover, Lichtenstein can intellectually control the subjects with mirror reflection and 'zoom in' effects to describe different proportions of Human’s facial expression.

(Cowart. J, 1982) In contrast to traditional human viewing angles, his works is made up of unusual visual angles such as a facial emotion can be read either from front and sides of the mirror(Fig. 5); he normally focused on the facial details (E.g. Eye contact, teardrops or shocking mouth); subsequently, the mid-ground and background in his drawing are almost no importance or blurred that breaks the traditional modus of painting (Usually a final piece of work has clear hierarchy, including a foreground, mid18

ground and background).

Despite this is a profound breakthrough, Lichtenstein’s simplified drawing style can harmoniously resolve the potential conflicts between the real object with an abstract manner. (Waldman. D, 1988) Especially the manga style which is visually informal, cursory but easy to understand, even, it is seemingly not realistic. Indeed, when other fashion designers expanded Lichtenstein’s manga style of drawings, as a part of illustrative pattern design for lady dress, the garments seems very picturesque, youthful and colourful. Consequently, the next sub-heading will examine the newest designers, and to see how they rearrange Pop art characteristics in their works.

3.3.3 Modern designers or fashion brands examples Both Warhol and Lichtenstein are the expressive artists from Pop Art periods, but instead of classifying their designs into a comprehensive illustrative style; their drawings should be categories into two distinctive illustrative styles as Warhol’s works lean to transform the real person’s icons into abstract illustrative style but Lichtenstein is in favour of a combination of a cubism and manga (or comic).

Numerous modern fashion designers and commercial companies’ collections have tried to put Warhol’s graphic prints into illustrative patterns for clothing, particular with colourful contrast tone. After Andy Warhol’s A-lines dress (Fig. 3), luxury brand Versace’s owner Gianni Versace used similar methods to regroup Warhol’s favourite portraits prints: staggered overlapping the Marilyn’s icons with other famed idol’s faces into repeat pattern for woman’s gown design in the 1991 summer and spring series. (Fig. 6) Versace uses less black for the portrait prints, and more contrast colours with the faces. Simultaneously, it generates a visual illusion that each Marilyn has different facial emotion. In fact, the portraits from the pattern are identical but with 19

different scales.

In 2013, there was another winter dress collection launched, the ‘Neon Andy Warhol graphic prints’ which aimed to celebrate the Toronto Fashion Week. (Gunn. A, 2013) Again, the designer used illustrative human portrait prints as main repeat motifs of the pattern design, which adapted bright neon gradients with block repeat composition, so that the entire collection is comparatively glaring. (Fig Collection 6) Another youth brand PEPE Jeans also produced a casual youth series pictured in Fig collection 7; it limited the use of colour and made the design more suitable for daily wear. Through analysing the above examples, Andy’ Warhol’s illustrative prints really are well-known in fashion market, although most contemporary designers are chiefly interested in Warhol’s illustrative portrait prints.

By comparison, Lichtenstein’s drawing applied varied manga drawing, so when other fashion designers put his paintings into repeat patterns, it automatically inserts certain stories (or manga’ plots) within the garments design and make its style becomes greatly illustrative. Today, most of modern fashion designers are inclined to rearrange and collage Lichtenstein’s drawings into repeat patterns. Some of the designers tend to enlarge Lichtenstein’s painting and print the details of his designs onto the surface of shoes, T-shirt or dresses.(Fig collection 8 and 9) Concurrently, comic style of patterns seems relatively youthful when applied in fashion design, and is more appropriate for young consumers.

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3.3.4 Summery Warhol and Lichtenstein are both representative artists using Pop Art that has influenced the illustrative style pattern design in young fashion market. Although they come from the same art movements, their style of design should be identified as two unique illustrative trends, Warhol’s is focusing on human (or stylish idols) portraits prints; and Lichtenstein is looking for manga facial expressions. Also, Lichtenstein’s drawings contained various illustrative elements because he used varied emotional faces and speaking babbles to emphasis the characters’ expressions within his drawings. Only a few examples of modern Pop Art fashion are designed by original illustrative drawings in this section, it seems that many people copy and repeat Warhol or Lichtenstein’s work; the modern pattern designer has played an important role in transferring Pop Art artists’ works into illustrative style pattern design for the fashion world. After examining three vintage illustrative styles from 18th to 20th Century (Art Nouveau illustrative style, Pop Art abstract illustrative style and vintage Manga style), future research will dig out more animated, original stories and the latest simplified illustrative style of pattern designs in the market today.

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3.4 Illustrative style III Contemporary Illustrative Visual Art In General, contemporary visual art covers too many art branches. During this study, illustrative art has been selected to examine several well-established new-fashioned illustrative patterns in the fashion market today. Owing to the growth of digital technology, illustrators, artists and designers started to escalate the complexity of illustrative patterns for clothing, textiles or other products with ever-increasing range of surfaces. (Zeegen. L, 2010) In modern days, illustrative pictures are commonly used as a highlight tool in many medias, print works and advertisements as an indispensable constituent of visual history.

As regards the advance of commercial companies, vast amount of illustrative TV comics, cartoons and films contributed countless attractive characters and fairy tale illustrations; it fully demonstrated the strength of native art. (E. g. Snow white, Mickey and Minnie, Tom and Jerry in Fig Collection 10. (David. W, 1999) Furthermore, commercial companies as Disney frequently apply their character designs into repeat patterns for a number of commercial products, including fashion market. Instead of using animals or human portraits motifs, Disney combined many comic, cartoon and story characters or drawings.

From the individual artists’ point of view, original stories are based on their own personal ideas and are added into pattern design, whist their inspiration is usually closely related to their childhood, dreams and life experiences. In other words, more striking meanings can be adopted into artworks, and implicitly reflect the movements and social status of the historical periods. (Miller. H. J, 1993) Though there is no precise categories of illustrative pattern design stated in literature of visual histoy, a key features that has been carried out that the illustrative pattern 22

designs always contain simple stories or messages. Therefore, the next sub-heading will discover more neoteric illustrative pattern styles from commercial companies, independent pattern designers and collaborated fashion brand designers’ for young females.

3.4.1 Animation or Cartoon pattern design: Disney Walt Disney Company is a well-known multinational enterprise, its auxiliary product designs already extends from cartoon, books, toy to apparels. (Anonymous, 2011) Gradually, it becomes a predominant trend in illustrative pattern style for fashion market. During this research, ‘Mickey Mouse’ has been chosen to explain: how Disney transforms their characters into illustrative animation or cartoon pattern designs for fashion. The symbolic look of Micky Mouse is simple and fast to world; it is a pop star in many children’s childhood. (Walt Disney. Co, 1991) With the continuous development of commercial activities, countless story books, animations and relative products are still popular today. No doubt, Micky Mouse imperceptibly made a deep impression in people's heart that also plays the role as a funny, happy and humorous friend from childhood.

Afterwards, Disney changed their market strategies and put their characters into fashion design so people can wear their favourite Micky Mouse day to day. While generating more animated or Cartoon characters as the repeat motif, it also carries the relevant stories about the characters within the pattern design. On the other hand, the entire style will become relative story which can be defined as new branch of illustrative style.

By analysing the development of Disney movies, its characters design can be divided into two illustrative styles, they are: vintage and modern Disney style; and it also 23

applies to the pattern design for fashion market. The former style is more formulised, less colourful and often demonstrates as mono prints; the latter is humanised, three dimensional and trendy. (Watts. S, 2013)

Vintage Disney style In Fig collection 11, there are two piece of high waist skirts with illustrative mono print patterns (Images. i ); using horizontal block repeat structure to display the illustration of ‘Alice in Wonderland and imitating the traditional cine-strip as the repeat composition for the stories from the skirts (Image. j ). Both designs are inspired by Disney illustrative stories; these design methods are similar to Pop Art artist design ideation. (Chapter 3.3 P. 16) For example, transforming the creative ideas from everyday life (E. g. Contemporary movie, manga or stories). Instead of using only black and white, there is another example used red colour to highlight Micky and Minnie’s garments (Image. k ), it limited the use of colour to make a simplified design which is slightly related to Roy Lichtenstein’s design methods. Meantime, it shows that Disney Vintage combined some pop art elements and innovated its own Disney’s stories into new Disney pattern designs.

Modern Disney style Recently, more Disney character collections created with colourful layout and multiple repeat operations for various fashion products such as Disney princess, Pixar and Marvel series. (Disney, N. A.) Compared to previous Art movements and Disney Vintage illustrative style, these examples seems relatively childish and commercialised.

Still, it is popular in the illustrative pattern designs of fashion market and appeals to children. Although there are many differences between vintage and modern style, 24

both should be classified into Disney illustrative style pattern as they all are based on the contemporary cartoon character design.

This study shows that large commercial organisation gains more potential to create a series of designs. However, most of them are more likely to repeat the characters rather than build varied stories sceneries of stories within the pattern. Following chapters will cover two more unique illustrative branches driven by independent designers and design collaboration will be discussed.

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3.4.2 Original story style pattern design Before introducing the original story style, it is necessary to make a comparision between illustrator and pattern designer, which is helpful for distinquishing the difference between illustraton and illustrative pattern design.

By examining several illustrators and designers’ personal insight, design inspiration and confession, most illustrators do not have the skills to put illustrative drawing into repeat pattern. Heller and Wiedemann introduced 100 illustrator (2013); for examples, John Hendrix is an American illustrator who is comfortable about expressing his mood within his drawings as a series of original stories. Tara McPherson is another contemporary illustrtator, her designs gain deep impact from her childhood, and approximate to cartoon characters have been foung in her works. She played with some very simplified pattern elements but not as a pattern design. (Fig. 7) Sharon Tancredi’s illustrations indicate fantasy digital work such as illustrating fairy tales, advertising, editorial, packaging and children’s book. (Fig. 8.) She even created many cartoon characters. However, their work cannot be view as repeat pattern as they have not put their pictorial ideas into varied symmetric structure. Unlike Catalina Estrada, she can be identified as an illustrator but also a illustrative pattern designer as she applied many repeat compositions in her design that will be discussed further.

Catalina Estrada A native designer or illustrator from Colombia who prefers to combine the Latin American folk art with contemporary European style. (Heller. S and Wiedemann. J, 2013) According to her pattern design in Fig Collection. 12, she plays a role in generating digital illustrative pattern designs for fashion or other products, therefore, most of her designs are digital printed on fabrics or other printable materials.

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Owing to Catalina’s working experience with various international clients such as cooperation with fashion designer Paul Smith, Coca-Cola and Sony (Di Leito. D, 2009), her designs’ theme is often directed by the Fashion team. For example, the ‘Animals in a London Park’ collection which is collaborated with fashion Designer Paul Smith, and Catalina mainly focus on the pattern parts (Viction workshop, 2007): she depicted illustrative birds and bunnies as the little characters within forest park background; in the particular design, illustrative characters contain original stories (or messages): there are many animals who live harmoniously in a London Park. (Fig Collection. 12, image. o) As she can skilfully use digital colours to present the entire design, it expressed a dreamy atmosphere. Nowadays, Catalina’s illustrative designs are wellknown in fashion markets, and other fashion brand (E.g. Anunciaçao) have also tried to cooperate with her unique style of designs several times.

In addition, Catalina is especially keen on the beauty of natural, and floral motifs frequently worked as a decorative mid-ground or background hierarchies, which is similar to Art Nouveau movement’s ideas. However, she used the latest digital methods to paint her designs with colourful and sophisticated details, so that the overall version is more similar to the sceneries in an animation. On the other hand, this particular illustrative style of pattern design combined broad innovative components as a synthesis of Fashion, pattern, graphic and illustration and animation.

As each of her designs carries different original stories, her works can be categorised as an original illustrative style for fashion market.

3.4.3 Contemporary Simplified style : Potipoti It is a German fashion brand originated by two designer’s collaboration in 2005, named 27

‘POTOPOTI’. They are Silvia Salvador and Nando Cornejo who aim to bridge the gap between graphic design art and fashion’. (Potopoti, N. A) Hence, their fashion designs show how they build up little original stories into illustrative patterns. According to ‘Hip hunters’ online magazine’s interview, Cornejo and Salvador both claims that they are really interested in textiles and created prints works to develop a relevant garments design in their first fashion collection. (Style Makers, 2013) In the first design series they made ‘The Fabula Collection’ which includes numerous illustrative print pattern design with simplified style, many seem comparatively childish and naïve. As the examples shown in Fig Collection 13, most of the characters are designed by mono print, each garments design has its own pattern and little mysterious characters, and they are mainly inspired from different tales. (Style Makers, 2013) Similar to Andy Warhol’s style , POTOPOTI’s collections are passionate about creating varied illustrative prints, its character designs are even more abstract than the Disney Vintage style’s Micky Mouse from 70s (Fig. 9), and is familiar to children’s graffiti. In contrast to the fore-mentioned illustrative styles, POTOPOTI’s pattern design is far more simplified for fashion market and can be viewed as a new modern illustrative style.

3.4.4 Summary From Art Nouveau, Pop Art to Contemporary visual art movements, there are six unique illustrative patterns: 1. Art Nouveau illustrative style.

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2. Pop art abstract illustrative style.

3. Vintage Manga style.

4. Animation or Cartoon style.

5. Original story style.

6. Contemporary Simplified style.

Moreover, there are several characteristics of each illustrative style identified through observing various designers’ works in the previous studies. (Introduction 2. 4, Objective 1 and 2) According to the literature review, it proved that illustrative pattern design is well-established in fashion market and each has their own styles. However, the actual reaction of the market to these illustrative styles is lacking in literatures studies. (E.g. Are these illustrative styles popular in young women fashion market? Will they buy any of the six illustrative pattern styles designs? How do young women view the illustrative styles in fashion market?) Hence, primary research needs to be generated in chapter 5 by investigating consumer’s perception in reality. The development of new technologies really boosts the printable illustrative patterns for fashion use, see next Chapter. Still, certain questions need to be answered in the next section: What kind of new technology can be conducive to the illustrative pattern design? If future technology can consistently benefit the illustrative pattern market, any limitation and opportunities revealed?

3.5 Future technology and Consideration Since 1980s, various markets have been rapidly taken over by multinational companies. Because established profitable businesses and commercial companies 29

can rarely maintain their creative individuality. Fast culture leads the trend to encourage young designers to work as high-speed creative operators. (Lesley. J, 2002) Latest technology increasingly facilitated designs production from 2 dimensional to 3 dimensional through applying the illustration or patterns to multiple commercial products. (Davies. J and Brazell. D, 2014) Hence, Illustrators and pattern designers can put their designs to printable markets; designers can boost the practicality of their work. Additionally, the debates about the opportunities and limitations for each new technology (design method or material); whether the future technology can continuously support the illustrative pattern market will be addressed via the following studies.

Collaboration between scientists, engineers and designers Quinn (2013) mentions that collaborate with other experts can make future designs faster, lighter, brighter, cleaner and more eco-friendly. Meanwhile, cross-discipline cooperation can bring new synthetic materials into textile design and benefits the decorative function of textiles from scientific aspects; it also provides opportunities to increase the innovation of multiple functional products with risky consideration of use chemical resources. (Pan. N and Sun. G, 2011) Contemporary designers tend to work with different fashion groups in a team project in order to draw on each other's strength and to maximize the interests of a design. It is helpful to refine their work.

Smart Material There are several prominent examples useful for adding high performance effects to design products, they are: Electric Plaid, Integrated Circuit, Paper PC, power paper,

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Sensitive carpet and sensitive object. These special materials can connect with electric to provide lighting and shine effects for both fashion and interior design.

(MatĂŠriO, 2005) Therefore, illustrative pattern design can be benefit in relevant markets by using those luminous effects. For example, decorative wall, fashion garments and wallpaper design. (Fig. 10) Meanwhile, these particular smart materials usually required a battery or electricity cable, due to the health and safety prospects, the battery are limited less than 5V for non-cable designs. (Schwartz. M, 2009) Hence, it seems that extra cost and consumption are required.

Sustainable material and design methods Sustainable Materials Management (SMM) declares the principle of addressing waste issues with regard to value chain and social capability of sustainable consumption and production. (OECD, 2012) Green designs concentrates on recycle; reuse and repair used materials to achieve low-emission. (Lucas. D, 2010) Hence, there are many sustainable materials invented to fulfil designer’s needs, including clean green packing, natural fibre, potato plate and soybean fibre. (Beylerian. G. et al, 2005) Most are renewable, recyclable or biodegradable. However, these new materials are expensive and required support, as they are new to the world. Using sustainable materials for illustrative designs can certainly encourage more environmental friendly production. Still, unaffordable price may affect a designer’s selectivity of design material.

Natural dye Contrast to synthetic dyes which have the risk of allergic, toxic and harm; natural dyes have minimum environmental impact as they are derived from plants, insects, 31

animals and minerals. The majority of scientists classify natural dyes as both renewable and sustainable. Therefore, its commercial production can really boost sustainable utilization of bio-resources. (Mohammad.S, 2013) The development of natural dyes will in time exploit a substantial market; it can benefit the illustrative designs in different markets as natural dye is sustainable so may lead to a prospective future.

Digital printing, 3D printing, Laser cut and Body scanning technology The latest printing technology can directly transfer the digital patterns, models or other designs into entity for both 2D and 3D products. (Fig. 11 and 12) Digital measurements can reduce the printing processes and time. (Ujiie. H, 2006) Although, they are very expensive at this stage as these innovative technologies just launches; it plays a support tool for the fore-mentioned new printing technology.

Skin Graph use body scanning technology in order to design well-fitting clothing for customers which use laser-cut to tailor made cloth as a future design. (San. M and Macarena, 2010) These new technologies can really sublimate the design outcome and make the garments more desirable.

3.5.1 Summery To summarised, this section discusses five aspects about the progress of new technologies by identifying numerous newest design methods, materials and 32

technologies that carry opportunities and limitations for the development of illustrative pattern design in future. (Introduction 2.4 Objective 3) By exploring a range of publications on new technology and design methods, it shows that the collaboration between scientists, engineers and designers can gather technical ideas and innovations into the design process for female market. For long term view, future technical supports such as smart and sustainable materials, new design methods, natural dye, Digital printing, 3D printing, Laser cut and Body scanning really can efficiently assist the illustrative pattern market, as they can be less time consuming, eco-friendly, low emission and innovative. However, these latest techniques are expensive and required support at first, if it becomes popular, the cost will eventually be reduced. On the other hand, the future technology can be considered an important tool to support the development of illustrative pattern in women fashion market.

3.6 Contemporary perspective and research question To summarise the discussion of the literature review, there are six unique illustrative pattern styles have been defined from Art Nouveau Periods, Pop Art and Contemporary Visual art aspects they are: 33

1. Art Nouveau illustrative style.

2. Pop art abstract illustrative style.

3. Vintage Manga style.

4. Animation or Cartoon style.

5. Original story style.

6. Contemporary Simplified style.

Categorizing these styles is useful to understand how these pattern designs became well-established, and demonstrates how famous designers as Miuccia Prada and Gianni Versace reinterpret illustrative elements in their appeal collection. By examining the future technology, it seems that collaboration between scientists, engineers and designers really can provides innovated ideas for future illustrative pattern designs; likewise, more functional techniques and materials will benefit and save time for design process. Meantime, there is a problem that new technology is often very expensive and not in widespread use. Indeed, this section responds to the first 3 objectives in Chapter 2.4. (P. 7) How the traditional illustration’s innovation influences designer’s ideation? Who are the representative illustrative designers, and Why? Where the inspirations came from?

Nevertheless, there are a few more arguments to be answered: What is the main factor affecting consumer’s behaviour? Which illustrative style of pattern is the most attractive one, in what way? Why people choose illustrative style fashion designs?

The following hypotheses are designed to respond to the previous questions and the 34

other objectives in ‘Introduction 2. 4’.

Hypothese.1. Characters or stories from the illustrative style pattern have to a certain extent affected consumers’ purchasing decision.

Hypothese.2. Young women aged from 16 to 25 are willing to wear illustrative style patterns as a new fashion trend.

Hypothese.3. Illustrative style pattern will became a persistently trend for young female fashion market.

In order to fulfil these 3 hypotheses, the coming chapters will show an appropriated research methodology explaining the research methods used in this dissertation and they are helpful for observing consumers’ behaviour and collection the original opinions from the young people.

4. Methodology This section aims to explain and elaborate on several research methods that will be used in this dissertation and how they achieving the answer for the debates from the qualitative and quantitative methods. A Questionnaire will be designed for the focus group of young women from 18 to 26 to analysis the popularity of illustrative style 35

pattern designs in young women fashion market. Mainly the questions have been divided into 5 parts: Part I will collect interviewers’ general background information (E.g. age and occupation); Part II and III use multiple choices questions and Likert methods to analysis fashion customer’s behaviour; Part IV and V are open question which aims to collect more qualitative answers. (Appendix A: Question Design, P. 65) Moreover, the limitations and future consideration during this research also will be covered.

4.1 Quantitative Methods Countable General Question about Consumer Part I and II are countable questions to collect basic information about the interviewees such as categories the interviewees into: student or student with parttime job design; design student or design student with part-time job; and working. The responders’ occupation it is helpful to roughly understand the focus groups financial circumstances. (Appendix A: Part I and II, P. 66)

Multiple Choices Questionnaire’s Part II multiple choice questions as this research method can easy seize and manage large well-organised comments. (Haladyna. M, 2012) Meanwhile, limited answer is easy for interviewers to focus on the research theme.

Likert Method It can provide a simplified measurement in terms of consumer’s attitude through rating the illustrative style patterns from 5 strong like to 1 strong dislike. (Erwin. P, 2014) According to questionnaire Part III, there are 6 illustrative styles from literature review provided with relevant figure for respondent to rank. This provides an opportunity to 36

indicate that which illustrative pattern style has more potential to the fashion market.

(Appendix A: Part III P. 68)

4.2 Qualitative Methods Questionnaire often have a large number of respondent but many feedbacks are not very in-depth. Therefore, Part IV and V are open-questions which aimed to collect comprehensive, personal and expressive opinions from the interviewees.

Open question More freelanced questions regard to consumer’s personal comments and experienced have been designed in the final parts of the interview. Hence, consumer can express their personal opinions in their own words (Schuman. H, 2008) Discussing the illustrative patterns in young female fashion market will be helpful to answer which illustrative style people like most; whether consumer will buy illustrative fashion garments; and if illustrative style pattern will be a popular trend in future fashion market. (Appendix A, Part IV and V, P. 68)

Observation Methods Psychically observing interviewees’ behavior (E. g. Facial expression, Speaking voice and emotional expression) during the interview process, it can offer more detailed analysis in terms of Consumer’s attitude towards the questions.

4.3 Analysis Methods and Data Collection Putting the quantitative results into graphics, pie charts and diagram forms can easily 37

demonstrate the distribution of the data. Using percentages also can oversee the preference of illustrative style of pattern design according to the overall comments from the responders. Qualitative comments made by the interviewees will be transformed into readable data and discussed in-depth.

4.4 Limitations Primary research In terms of qualities research, interview considers negative concerns that participant’s individual perspectives and answers are not representable. Consequently, carefully choosing the respondents is very important. Use of time, answer’s length and degree of difficulty are non-predictable. More challenging questions can always collect more high quality responses, however, feedbacks can be more difficult and need more times to gather. (Schuman. H, 2008) Voice memos can be used to collect details of interviewees answers (with respondents’ permission). However, due to the interview locations’ limitation such as library, some responders’ comments were replaced by note-taking.

Secondary research Many historical articles or books are available for different famed art periods or certain arts styles. However, there is no specific material (e.g. publications and documentaries) that identify illustrative pattern design as separated styles, Contemporary designers are not loyal to one style of design, and they tend to mix different drawing styles, 38

techniques and methods to generate innovative designs. Therefore, it is hard for the publications to classify illustrative pattern designs into different styles. As many figures are directly photo taking from books or other publishers, the quality of images are limited. Hence, more digital images from EBooks replaced the figures from other publication. Most of the literature reviews lack information about consumers’ behaviour and their personal comments in reality. Overall, literature studies are beneficial for identifying the well-established illustrative pattern styles in fashion market. However, more accurate evidences need to be conducted in primary research.

4.5 Future Consideration Primary researches usually are difficult to collect respondents’ comments which need more time. Trends leader always changes in the markets which is non-predictable so consumer’s answers will trace the footprint of the fashion trend. Future technologies are not well-known to the consumer yet. Therefore, more images and examples need to be provided during the data collection process.

5. Result and Analysis 5.1 Focus Group Research This research aims to get young women (E.g. from 18 to 26 years old) first hand feedback toward illustrative style patterns as the focus group of this dissertation. The questionnaires were all conducted by face to face interview in order to achieve a more in-depth discussion, especially the open-questions part IV and V, each responder on average consumes 5 to 10 minutes, and most of them are voice memos records. From 39

27th January 2016 to 20th February, there were 70 respondents in total.

This study will accomplish the objectives 4 and 5 covered in Introduction. 2.4, (P. 8) by investigating the popularity of illustrative pattern and observe consumer’s opinions and reactions during the research process, in order to answer if illustrative style pattern is acclaimed in young female fashion market?

5.2 Questionaire Result and Analysis Most of the research statistics have been transformed into different diagrams (E.g. pie chart and bar graph). This section will examine the consumers’ behaviour and perception through the outcome of the questionnaires from the focus group.

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5.2.1 Part I: Interviewees’ background information

70 Respondents from 18 to 26

29%

71%

Western

Asia

Fig. 13. Interviewee Nationality Distribution

Age Distribution between 18 to 26 25 21 20 16 15 10 10 5

8

7

4 2

1

1

0 18

19

20

21

6%

12%

23%

30%

22

14%

23

24

25

26

10%

3%

1%

1%

Fig. 14. Interviewee Age Distribution The above data analyses oversees the integral distribution of respondents’ nationality and age, 70 respondents involved: 29% are Asian and 71% from Western The majority 30% of those interviewees are from the group aged 21, 23% are from aged 20, 12% aged 19, 14% aged 22 and 10% aged 23. The following age groups are aged 18 (6%), 24(3%), 25(1%) and 26(1%).

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Percentage of interviewees' occupation

9%

3%

11%

61% 16%

Student

Student with Part-time

Design student

Design Student with Part-time

Working

Fig. 15. Interviewee Financial Condition In terms of the financial condition of the focus group, there are 61% of interviewees who are student without extra income; 16% students has part-time jobs; 11% design students; 9% Design students have part-time jobs and 3% are full time working.

(Appendix B. 3, P. 70) As a result, both Western and Asian respondents are involved, over 60% of the participants have no extra income and design students tend to have more part-time jobs than other students.

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5.2.2 Part II: Consumer behaviour and preference Which 3 options will affect you, when you are shopping?

70 62 60 49

50 40

36 31

30

25

20 7

10 0 a) Price

b) colour

c) material quality

d) Fashion trend

e) Pattern Design

f) Print Quality

Fig. 16 Consumer behaviour This section aims to understand the consumer behaviour by asking the interviewees ‘which are the top 3 options that might affect their purchase decision for fashion’. For example, price, colour, material, fashion trend, pattern design and print quality. The maximum vote can be 70. It shows that 62 people chose price as the highest consideration. The quality of material received 49 votes the second highest consideration. Colour and Pattern design received over 30 votes; both can be viewed as the third top options that might affect consumer decision. In terms of the fashion trend and print quality, they both seem are less important for the focus group.

Most of the respondents are students who have only limited incomes; it can be one of the key reasons that the focus group choose ‘Price’ as the top consideration. Besides, this question also shows that interviewees are concerned about ‘Pattern’ as one of the higher consideration when shopping for fashion.

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According to the following options, choose 3 style of pattern for fashion that you like most?

50 45 40

45

44

35

37

39

30 25 20

21

15

15

10 10

5 0 a) Pure Floral

b) Abstract c) Manga Liked) Cartoon like e) Original human or animated stories like portraits

f) Simple illustrative character

g) Vintage painting 3D Print

Fig. 17. Consumer Preference in Pattern design This question aims to investigate the top 3 styles of pattern they like most, each option maximum 70 votes. By giving limited pattern styles to the respondents can help us to indicate that which illustrative styles consumers find desirable to wear. The result appears that pure floral has 45 votes and Vintage painting 3D prints got 44 votes, both are the most attractive style that people interested in. Simple illustrative character style received 39 votes and original stories style gained 37 votes, which are the second desirable choices. Follow on ‘Abstract human portrait’ (21 votes). The less attractive options for the respondents are ‘Cartoon style’ (15 votes) and ‘Manga style’ (10 votes).

In fact, options from b) to g) are the illustrative pattern styles identified in previous literature reviews. Therefore, this research question really can effectively reflect if the focus group interviewees desire to wear illustrative patterns.

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5.2.3 Part III: Likert scale 5 = strongly like, 4 = like, 3 = neutral, 2 = dislike, 1= strongly dislike How much do you like the following illustrative fashion style? f) Contemporary Simplified style.

3.94

e) Original story style.

3.61

d)Animation or Cartoon style.

2.85

c) Vintage Manga style.

2.7

b) Pop art abstract illustrative style

2.84

a) Art Nouveau illustrative style

2.96 0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

4.5

Fig. 18. Consumer’ preference on illustrative pattern style for fashion The research results indicates the average ranking of illustrative style patterns from 5 strongly like to 1 strong dislike, relevant figure examples for each illustrative style provided during interviews with the respondents. Compared to the previous Question Part II, the order of the top three desirable styles of patterns slightly changed in this section, still, the overall research outcome is comparatively accurate: The highest mark is ‘Contemporary simplified style’ 3.94; followed by ‘Original story like style’ 3.61; ‘Art Nouveau illustrative style’ (or the Vintage painting 3D prints) 2.95; ‘Animation or Cartoon style’ 2.85; ‘Pop art abstract illustrative style’ 2.84; and the lowest ‘Vintage Manga style’ 2.7.

In this section, the respondents start to become more familiar with illustrative style patterns, the results shows the top three illustrative styles that the focus group of interviewee like most, they are: ‘Contemporary simplified style’, ‘Original story style’ and ‘Art Nouveau illustrative style’.

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5.3 Interview Result and Analysis After the questionnaire section, a short interview has been generated with each participant; there are 70 in total (Appendix C: Respondent number 1 to 70). It purposes to collect the actual consumers’ opinions. By exploring the comments made by the interviewees, it is useful to echo the hypotheses made in the end of literature review.

(Chapter 3.6, P. 34)

5.3.1 Part IV a): Ranking the illustrative style patterns

Illustrative style patterns preference ranking a) Art Nouveau illustrative style

b) Pop art abstract illustrative style

c) Vintage Manga style.

d)Animation or Cartoon style.

e) Original story style.

f) Contemporary Simplified style.

12% 7% 3% 47%

4%

27%

Fig. 19. Consumers’ favourite illustrative pattern style ranking After marking the six illustrative pattern styles separately, another question which leads consumers to choose their favourite one to wear or buy, this is helpful to forecast 46

which illustrative trend have more potential in the fashion market. According to the research outcomes, 51% respondents chose the simplified style as their favourite illustrative style of pattern design, 27% young women are brave to wear more original story style pattern, 10% Art Nouveau illustrative style was the third attractive one from respondents. Pop art styles and animated or cartoon style are followed by fewer respondents; and Vintage Manga style is the least desirable style.

According to above data which precisely denotes that ‘Contemporary simplified style’, ‘Original story style’ and ‘Art Nouveau illustrative style’ are more popular than other three illustrative styles. It evidences that illustrative pattern styles are acclaimed in young woman fashion market but not all of the them are popular in public.

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5.3.2 Part IV b) and c): Interviewees’ personal preference An extended open-question is provided in Part IV b); it encourages the respondents to express more qualitative answers during the interview. It is conducive to examine the strengths and weaknesses of the illustrative pattern styles in regard to the interviewees’ original comments.

No. 1 Contemporary Simplified Style There are 34 of the 70 participants selected ‘Contemporary Simplified Style’ as their favourite illustrative style; 31 interviewees would like to buy and wear it for casual and daily wear; only 1 person would not buy any of them because this pattern style is to childish to wear and would not suit their personal style (Appendix C. 3, P. 80), even she liked the design; and 1 person said maybe she would buy (Appendix C. 35, P. 81). A majority of the respondents commented that this particular illustrative style of pattern is simple and easy to match with other daily wear. Comprehensively, the interviewees mentioned that this type of pattern is ‘nice’, ‘clean’, ‘neutral’, ‘cute’, ‘quite or very fashionable’. Besides, there were two girls who gave their opinions about the stories from the patterns. Ellie said ‘Little simple prints but can tell lots of stories, messages or meanings’ (Appendix C. 22, P.76 ) and Anna think contemporary simplified style pattern designs suit her personal style, and felt quite relaxed when she looked at the little characters. (Appendix C. 54, P. 88). In other words, consumers can recognised the illustrative elements behind the pattern design.

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No. 2 Original story style It is the second popular illustrative pattern style, 19 respondents voted it as their favourite choice; 18 of them would like to buy and wear it; and only 1 interviewee claims that she liked the pattern but she think it cannot match with her own style.

(Appendix C. 1, P. 69) Almost a quarter of the interviewees would like to wear these types of patterns day to day; others denotes that original stories patterns are more appropriate for holiday, summer, photo taking during a trip. Several characteristics of this pattern style have been identified from literature review Chapter 3.4.2 (P. 26), there were a range of authentic opinions received from the interviewees: the original stories patterns is ‘colourful’, ‘ inventive’, ‘bold’, ‘attractive’, ‘aesthetic’, ‘ expressive’ and’ out-standing’. Two positive comments have been made toward the stories elements, Yannie said ‘the pattern is imaginative and stories make me keep thinking about them’ (Appendix C. 2, P. 69) Yidan comments that ‘the pattern makes me think about the native arts as this particular patterns contains little stories within the pattern which is quite in fashion with nature elements’. (Appendix C. 55, P. 89) Both Yannie and Yidan are not designs students; still, they noticed the stories within the patterns.

No. 3 Art Nouveau illustrative style During the interviews, 8 participants chose this as their favourite illustrative pattern style; 7 people would wear and buy, only 1 respondent states ‘she likes the design but for her is too colourful’ (Appendix C. 45, P. 85). Most of the interviewees think this type of pattern is very’ detailed’, ‘ beautiful’, cool’ and ‘out- standing’. A design student even mentioned that ‘Art Nouveau paintings (or pattern motifs) are to a large extent familiar to the fashion brand Dolce & Gabana as it is very young style’. (Appendix C. 3, P. 70); another respondents said ‘I like the colour and how detailed it is (the painting motifs), 49

expressive and also tell stories’. It proves that the paintings can bring stories into the pattern design. (Same as the illustrative features defined in Chapter 3.2, P. 15)

No. 4 Pop art abstract illustrative style The interview results show that there are 5 people who liked this illustrative style the most. Despite, only 3 over 70 respondents would wear and buy these patterns for daily wear, they gave very detailed and positive comments to these illustrative style: Sara said’ I like typography and colourful and graphic print for clothing’ (Appendix C. 5, P. 70); Another Ellie said ‘the Pop Art style can reminds me of historical artists and stories.

(Appendix C. 9, P. 72); and Katherine mentioned that she can recognise the Pop art style which is really bright colour, and she thinks the prints are particular trendy today and very American style. (Appendix C. 60, P. 90) Also, there were 2 interviewees who really enjoyed the pattern designs but would not to wear them because they think the patterns are too colourful, and one of them highlights that ‘the design is very colourful, active, fashionable and good-looking, but I will not wear them, I like to see other people wear them on the streets. (Appendix C. 70, P. 94)

No. 5 Animation or Cartoon style There are 3 people chose animated style as their favourite illustrative pattern style and all of them would like to wear it as casual and daily wear. The major influence affecting interviewees’ decision, and this particular illustrative pattern style contains recognisable characters from animation and cartoon, which reminds them of their childhood. (Appendix C. 34, 59 and 62, P. 81, 90 to 91)

No. 6 Vintage Manga style 50

Only one respondent was especially keen on this illustrative pattern design, when she is a design student who mentioned that’ I fancy the screen prints, as printing the ideas of narrative comics and stories are very interesting’. (Appendix C. 23, P. 75) In fact, some of the interviewees express that this particular pattern style is interesting but other illustrative styles have more appealing to their own preference.

5.3.3 Part V: Future Perspective A final open-question is designed to forecast ‘whether the focus group will continuously follow the illustrative trends in the future’ and ‘if the illustrative patterns will be continuously grown in fashion market’, by asking the interviewees the following question: Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in the future?

Analysis and Comparison 58 respondent said ‘yes’, 12 people are not sure and only 1 person is’ no’. Obviously, most of the consumers are willingly to buy and wear the illustrative pattern designs in the future. Large numbers of respondents expressed that ‘Original story like style’ and ‘Contemporary Simplified style’ are more prominent than other options in young women fashion market; and people respond that ‘Pop art abstract illustrative style’ and ‘Vintage Manga style have more appeal to a niche market, it seems that only small group of audience especially like these two illustrative pattern styles; and which has been answered in Chapter 5.2.3. (P. 45) There were abundant positive comments made by the respondents that show the overall the illustrative pattern styles are ‘fast fashion, ‘new to the future fashion market’, ‘people prefer colourful design nowadays’, they expressed that illustrative 51

designs are ‘quite popular in youth market’, people even think ‘it will always have potential’. Some interviewees highlighted that ‘fashion trends always reuse the previous trends and innovate into new forms’; which means illustrative designs can be found repeatedly in the modern fashion market. (Appendix. C, P.69)

As a consequence, this open question really shows that young women appreciated the illustrative patterns in fashion designs and they valued fore-mentioned styles will be consistently popular in future fashion market in renewable forms. It strongly evidences that illustrative style pattern will become a popular trend in future young women fashion market.

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5.4 Hypothesis Discussion and Summary Both questionnaire and interview researches supportively demonstrated the popularity of illustrative pattern styles in young woman fashion market. By observing consumers’ behaviour and preference, there are many qualitative opinions collected from the focus group to answer the three hypotheses set up in early chapter 3.6. (P. 34) The previous primary research outcomes reflected that if the hypotheses are fully fulfilled in this research study, more details will be covered in the following sections.

Hypothese.1. Characters or stories from the illustrative style pattern have to a certain extent affected consumers’ purchasing decision There are six illustrative pattern styles classified from the literature review, see page 32, each of them received a certain number of interviewees’ comments and won their hearts, some respondents even highlight how they view the illustrative elements in the pattern designs. According to Chapter 5.3.2 (P. 45), each illustrative patterns collected several comments about the stories, meanings and relevant historical art influences within the pattern from the 70 interviewees. For example, a respondent mentions that ‘I like different characters and I will buy the designs’ (Appendix C. 59, P. 90); another participants said ‘the pattern can make me think about Native arts as it contains little stories; and I will buy it in the future. (Appendix C. 55, P. 89) Therefore, it proves that the characters and stories are associated with the consumer’s personal preference, thus it can affects consumers’ purchasing decision in certain extents.

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Hypothese.2. Young women aged from 16 to 25 are willing to wear illustrative style patterns as a new fashion trend There are 58 over 70 interviewees who claimed that they would like to continue to shop for illustrative designs. Most of the respondents comment that illustrative patterns are quite fashionable and popular in reality. Refer to interview question Part IV (Appendix A, P. 68), most of the interviewees would like to wear their favourite illustrative style either in daily life, summer or holidays. (Chapter 5.3.2, P.45)

Hypothese.3. Illustrative style pattern will became a persistently trend for young female fashion market This chapter discovered that majority interviewees tend to continuing to buy their favourite illustrative styles in the future. ‘Contemporary simplified style’, ‘original story like style’ and ‘Art Nouveau illustrative style’ are more attractive for the focus group audience. Overall, six illustrative pattern styles all received varied positive comments, and over 50 respondents think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend would like keep buying them in the future.

This research clearly evidences that illustrative style patterns are popular in young women fashion market, over 80% interviewees would consistently keep an eye on the illustrative styles in fashion market and are also willing to buy or wear these design.

However, some of the illustrative patterns styles have more appeal for niche market.

(E. g Pop art abstract illustrative style and Vintage Manga like style.)

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6. Conclusion 6.1 Objective Fulfilment This research study covered the six objectives in introduction 2.5 (P. 8) Both qualitative and qualitative research methods are accurately applied in order to answer if the style patterns is a potential pattern branches in future young women fashion market.

The first 3 objectives have been developed in Chapter 3: Objective 1: An extensive literature review observed a range of art movements since 18th century.

Objective 2: By analysing the art movements and several artists’ designs, there are six illustrative pattern styles identified with its own characteristics.

Objective 3: the innovation of new technology section presents numerous new techniques, design methods and materials that can benefit the printable illustrative pattern market; and the only problem is new techniques often are expensive during the early stage; its cost will be declined in future.

Another 3 objectives are answered in Chapter 5 market research: Objective 4: According to the questionnaire research outcomes, it reflects that majority respondents are would wear ‘Contemporary simplified style’, ‘original story like style’ and ‘Art Nouveau illustrative style’ patterns from the fashion market.

Objective 5: By observing the consumer’s behaviour and preference, many

long-

length and positive comments collected in Chapter 5.3.2 (P. 48), it is helpful to find out that ‘which illustrative pattern is more popular, and why?’

Objective 6: This research study shows that illustrative style patterns are acclaimed in fashion market, as contemporary designers continuously use illustrative elements in 55

modern fashion market; interviewees are willing to buy the illustrative designs in the future; and most of the respondents agreed that illustrative pattern design is a fashionable trend that will consistently develop further in future youth fashion.

6.2 Evaluation Overall, illustrative styles are popular in fashion market, which gains a prospective future. Still, not all the styles appeal to the young audience as the ranking below: No.1 Contemporary Simplified style is the most popular illustrative pattern branch as it is simple and ready to wear in casual and daily wear No.2 Original story like style is the second prominent illustrative pattern branch which often uses nature and native art elements to attract people. Meantime, it is more colourful so is consumers are more likely to wear these particular styles during holidays or summer.

No.3 Art Nouveau illustrative style is the third high popular illustrative branch, its detailed painting prints remind people of historical nymphs, which is slightly familiar to the fashion brand’s design. E. g. Dolce & Gabanna.

No.4 Pop art abstract illustrative style is less attractive in the focus group, as this illustrative branch often use lots of bright and bold design elements.

No.5 Animation or Cartoon like style designs are widely used in many design markets.

E.g. Disney, however, it seems that this branch has more appeal to a younger target audience such as aged and 16 below.

No. 6 Vintage Manga like style received only one vote during the interview section, it obtained some positive comments by the interviewee.

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6.3 Future Consideration Currently, ‘Contemporary simplified style’, ‘original story like style’ and ‘Art Nouveau illustrative style’ are the top three attractive illustrative styles of the focus group. As fashion often come back repeatedly, it is hard to predict that ‘which illustrative styles will be more popular in the future as most of the fashion designs are rely on the annual trend forecast.

Along with the development of future technology, more printable illustrative designs can be fast to the fashion market, therefore, people have more opportunities to shop for these designs in future.

This research only focused on the target audience aged from 18 to 26 which cannot be representative of all consumers’ behaviour in reality, more research is required for future consideration and investigation.

57

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Appendix A: Questionnaire and Interview Question Design Part I General Information about the interviewer: Name: Age: 15-26  Western  Asian Occupation: Student  Design student Working Student with Part-time  Design student with part-time Part II Multiple choice Briefly understand interviewer’s preference: 1. a) b) c) d) e) f)

Which 3 options will affect you, when you are shopping?

Price Colour Material Fashion trend Pattern design Print Quality

2. According to the following options, choose 3 styles of pattern for fashion that you like most. (Relevant examples will provide with figures.) a) Pure floral b) Abstract Human portraits prints c) Manga like d) Cartoon like or animated e) Original stories like f) Simple illustrative character prints g) Vintage: historical illustrative painting 3D print

65

Part III Likert Methods (Relevant examples will provide with figures.)

Deeper the analysis on consumer’ preference on illustrative pattern style for fashion market.

3. How much do you like the following illustrative fashion style? ( 5 = strongly like, 4 = like, 3 = neutral, 2 = dislike, 1= strongly dislike) 5

4

3

2

1

a) Art Nouveau illustrative style b) Pop art abstract illustrative style. c) Vintage Manga like style d) Animation or Cartoon like style e) Original stories style f) Contemporary Simplified style Part IV Interview Question Collect Consumer’s detailed personal opinions 4a. Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

4b. Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

5. Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in the future?

66

Final Version Part I General Information Name: Age:

 16-26

 Western  Asian Occupation:

Student  Design student Student with Part-time  Design student with part-time

Part II Multiple choice 1. Which 3 options will affect you, when you are shopping for clothing / fashion? a) Price b) Colour c) Material d) Fashion trend e) Pattern design f) Print Quality 2. According to the following options, select 3 style of pattern for fashion that you like most. (Relevant examples will provide with figures.) a) Pure floral b) Abstract Human portraits prints * c) Manga like * d) Cartoon like or animated (E.g. Disney) e) Original stories like * f) Simple illustrative character prints g) Vintage: historical illustrative painting 3D print *

67

Part III Likert chart How much do you like the following illustrative fashion style? ( 5 = strongly like, 4 = like, 3 = neutral, 2 = dislike, 1= strongly dislike) 5

4

3

2

1

a) Art Nouveau illustrative style b) Pop art abstract illustrative style c) Vintage Manga like style d) Animation or Cartoon like style e) Original stories style f) Contemporary Simplified style

Part IV Interview Question Collect Consumer’s detailed personal opinions

Part IV Interview Question Collect Consumer’s detailed personal opinions a. Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most

b. Give some comment to explain that why you like it?

c. Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

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Appendix C: Interview Feedbacks The following documents collect 70 interviewer’s opinions from question Part IV to V. Most of them have voice memos, due to the interview locations’ limitation as library, some responders’ comments were replaced by note-taking. Some of the interviewees will be shown in the Chapter 5 as fellow format: Appendix. C, interviewee’s number.

(E.g. Appendix C. 1). Blue types are the answers from the interview section.

1. Name: Cindy

Age: 22

Occupation: Design student

Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- e) Original story like style - Attractive.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- No, not really match with my own style.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Maybe, fashion trends always reuse the previous trends and innovate in new forms.

2. Name: Yannie Age22 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- e) Original story like style - Imaginative, stories make me keep think about it.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily wear.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

Maybe. Depends on the fashion trends.

3. Name: Recheal Part IV

Age: 21

Occupation: Design Student 69

Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- a) Art Nouveau illustrative style - Its looks like fashion brand Dolce & Gabana style, very young.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- I don’t want to buy it, but I will wear it for night party.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, I think this will be a popular trend.

4. Name: Holly

Age: 21

Occupation: Design Student with Part-time job

Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- e) Original story like style - Artist.

- Idea from nature is familiar for me.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, I will buy it.

- particularly for summer Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, definitely.

- Personally, I really like the illustrative style of drawing makes some of my favourite animals (E. g peacock) looks very pretty.

5. Name: Sara Age: 20 Occupation: Design Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- b) Pop art abstract illustrative style - I like typography and colourful and graphic print for clothing.

- Very American style.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, I will buy it, for daily wear, particularly for summer.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in 70

future?

- Yes. 6. Name: Joseph Age: 20 Occupation: Design Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- A) Art Nouveau illustrative style - I like colour, how detail it is, expressive and kind like tell stories.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, I will buy a dress like this style.

- More for daily wear, like for day time.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, People think it is quite popular and cool.

- Very strong style can move the trend.

7. Name: Zara Age: 22 Occupation: Design Student with part time job Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style.

- I like bold colour with simple prints.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes I will buy it, for daily wear.

- Can be print on different type of garments, quite multiple.

- Still I prefer more plain things.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Maybe, trend change a lots, sometimes will come back again.

- Simplified style is quite popular now.

8. Name: Hannah Part IV

Age: 21

Occupation: Student 71

Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style.

- Simplified style can tone down when people look at it.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, I will buy it, for daily wear go to union.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, people start to wear illustrative styles, particularly young people.

9. Name: Ellie

Age: 22

Occupation: Student with part-time job

Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- b) Pop art abstract illustrative style.

- Remind me historical artist and stories.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily wear.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

-

Yes.

10. Name: Abarella Age: 20 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- e) Original story like style.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily wear and summer wear.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

-

f) Contemporary Simplified style is very popular.

Generally yes.

11. Name: Amelie Part IV

Age: 23

Occupation: Student 72

Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - Nice, contrast colour and pattern.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- No, I like but I will not wear.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, Contemporary Simplified style will be a popular trend because it is easy to wear.

12. Name: Mia Age: 20 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily wear.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

-

Yes, definitely.

13. Name: Katherine Age: 21 Occupation: Student with part time job Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- e) Original story like style.

- Very different, nice bold colour and most inventive.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, depends on price.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, pop art and manga like is quite popular.

14. Name: Sonoka Part IV

Age: 21

Occupation: Student

73

Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- b) Pop art abstract illustrative style.

- Colourful and interesting Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- No, hard to match with other clothes.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- No, some of styles are too strong, colourful and outstanding.

15. Name: Yee Pang

Age: 22 Occupation: Student

Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- F) Contemporary Simplified style Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes. Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, other is suitable for high fashion.

-

f) Contemporary Simplified style, its simplified style is more popular.

16. Name: Elaine Age: 23 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - Quite fashion.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes. Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, always have potential.

17. Name: Jessie Part IV

Age: 23 Occupation: Student

74

Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - Not too complicated.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes. Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, I only for very fashion groups, except contemporary Simplified style.

18. Name: Emily Age:19 Occupation: Student with part-time job Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - Clean, simple and neutral Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily. .Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes. 19. Name: Sakimaira Age:20 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - Fashionable.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily or Uni. Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes. 20. Name: Terrain Part IV

Age:20 Occupation: Student 75

Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - It’s my style.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily or so to Uni. Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes. 21. Name: Sophia

Age:21 Occupation: Student with part-time job

Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- e) Original story like style.

- Colourful Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

-

Yes.

22. Name: Ellie Age:21 Occupation: Student with part-time job Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - Little simple prints but can tell a lots stories, message or meanings.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily, I will wear it but more depend on the cutting of the garments Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future? - Yes, trends often come back again.

23. Name: Chloe Part IV

Age:22 Occupation: Student with part-time job

76

Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- c) Vintage Manga like style.

- Fancy about screen prints.

- Printing the ideas of narrative an d comics, stories is very interesting.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily wears Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, I think illustrative becomes more popular nowadays.

24. Name: Naomi Age:21 Occupation: Design Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - I don’t like too much noisy within the pattern.

- Easy to wear.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily wears.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, new printing technology allows more illustrative p for fashion.

25. Name: Anna Age:21 Occupation: Design Student with part-time job Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - Minimal style.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it 77

in future?

- Yes, Vintage paintings are popular print on garment and art movement often come back over and over again.

- b) Pop art abstract illustrative style and c) Vintage Manga like style are more suit for specific groups of people.

26. Name: Ellen Age:20 Occupation: Design Student with part-time job Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- a) Art Nouveau illustrative style.

- Beautiful illustration put into pattern is very pretty.

- I like the colour.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily wears.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Maybe.

27. Name: Alice Age:21 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- e) Original story like style - Bright colour and very busy pattern which is suitable for summer - I like Chiffon material though.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, I think so, because I always see them in the market.

28. Name: Sabrina Part IV

Age:21

Occupation: Student 78

Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- e) Original story like style - Pretty and fashion.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, for summer.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, some of them are quite for specific group of people. b) Pop art abstract illustrative style and c) Vintage Manga like style.

29. Name: Ashley Age:18 Occupation: Student with Part-time job Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - Simply like it.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, 30. Name: sherry Age:24 Occupation: Design Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- e) Original story like style - I like colourful and complicated or detailed pattern design Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, wear for holidays and photo-taking during a trip - Quite casual

79

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes. - e) Original story like style and f) Contemporary Simplified style are more popular, especially f).

- Others are less people will choose.

31. Name: Akame Age:20 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - Easy to wear.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- No, too childish.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Maybe.

32. Name: Jamie Part IV

Age:19

Occupation: Student

Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- a) Art Nouveau illustrative style.

- Like the Mucha’s Nymphs faces, very detailed drawings.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, I will buy a dress with this kind of pattern for night party.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, some of illustrative styles are quite stand out, and people nowadays want to dress different from others so they will be popular in future.

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33. Name: Juliet Age:19 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - I like simple.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily wears.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, I agree that people prefer to dress different from others so they will choose more stylish patterns.

34. Name: Becky Age:18 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- d) Animation or Cartoon like style.

- I like character from animation and cartoon.

- Reminds my childhood.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes,, as my daily wears.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, same as me, I agree that people prefer to dress more bold design now.

35. Name: Leslie Age:18 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style -

Simple.

81

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Maybe, daily or go to Uni. Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, All of them have potential.

36. Name: Cindy Part IV

Age:21

Occupation: Student

Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - I prefer pure colour with lines, as it is related to my personal style Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes. Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

-

Yes, they are good pattern designs.

37. Name: Olivia Age:20 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - I plain design more.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily wear.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes. 82

38. Name: Anna Age:23 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily wear.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Maybe.

39. Name: Nula Age:21 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- e) Original story like style - Interesting pattern and shapes used.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, for holidays.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Maybe.

40. Name: Anabell Age:21 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- e) Original story like style - Interesting patterns Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, for holidays and beach Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Maybe.

83

41. Name: Gulali Age:21 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - Simple and less colour is easy to match with other clothes Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

-

Maybe.

Yes, Overall, can be fast fashion.

42. Name: Charlotte Age:20 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- a) Art Nouveau illustrative style.

- Very different, old paintings but very cool.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, I will buy a T-shirt with is kind of style of pattern.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, definitely.

43. Name: Pulu Age:18 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - Very fashion, I like the animals’ characters.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily wear .Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- - Maybe, more depends on contemporary fashion trend.

84

44. Name: Pasty Age:22 Occupation: Student with part-time job Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- a) Art Nouveau illustrative style.

- I like the historical style which, especially Art Nouveau which is romantic.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, I will buy a T-shirt with is kind of style of pattern.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Maybe - e) Original story like style grows more in the market.

-

b) Pop art abstract illustrative style and c) Vintage Manga like style will not last for long.

45. Name: Yanoma Age:21 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- a) Art Nouveau illustrative style.

- I like the artist’s works.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- No, too colourful for me Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes. - But the bright colour one might be more popular for design student to wear.

85

46. Name: Emily Age:26 Occupation: Working Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - Simple and Cute Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily wear.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

-

Yes, they are interesting, people want to be look different from others

47. Name: Kate Age:23 Occupation: Working Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- e) Original story like style - Nice colour, I like little animals in the pattern design.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, I will buy but depends on the fashion cutting whether a dress or a top.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, more depends on the contemporary trend.

48. Name: charlotte Age:20 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- e) Original story like style - I like the pattern which is fun.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes. Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future? - Yes, Less the for the portraits style.

49. Name: Olivia

Age:24

Occupation: Student 86

Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- e) Original story like style - Yes, I like the pattern which is fun.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes. Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, Less the for the portraits style.

50. Name: Serena Age:24 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- e) Original story like style - Very colourful and expressive seem that the pattern tells a lots.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, summer and casual.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, has potential.

51. Name: Katherine Age:24 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - Simple and not too busy.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily and casual wear.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes. 52. Name: Shito

Age:2

Occupation: Student 87

Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - Simple and not too busy.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily and casual wear.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes. 53. Name: Nodoka Age:20 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - Simple and not too busy.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- No, too childish.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Maybe, e) and f) will be popular 54. Name: Anna Age:20 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - I think it is suit for my personal style, quite relax when I look at the little characters Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily wear Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future? - Yes, there are some interesting stories behind.

55. Name: Yidan

Age:21

Occupation: Student 88

Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- e) Original story like style - Makes me think about Native arts as it contains little stories within the patter which is quite fashion with nature elements.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, for casual wear Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

-

Yes, contemporary prints pattern are more popular now Especially the original stories are quite attractive

56. Name: Serena Age:24 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - Simple and not too busy.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes. Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, I think these kind of design style will keep renew in the future.

57. Name: Zoe Age:24 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - Easy to match with other clothes.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily wear.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future? - Yes. 58. Name: Holly

Age:20

Occupation: Student 89

Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - I like simple style and it is to match with other clothes.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily wear.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes. 59. Name: Lucy Age:19 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- d) Animation or Cartoon like style.

- I like different characters.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, depends on the garments’ cutting.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes. 60. Name: Katherine Age:19 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- b) Pop art abstract illustrative style - I can recognise the Pop art style - Really bright colour, the prints are particular trendy today - Very American style.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, I will buy it, for daily wear.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

90

-

Yes, all good and will become more popular.

61. Name: Lia Age:20 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - Easy to match with other clothes.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, daily wear.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes. 62. Name: Lidia Age:19 Occupation: Student with part-time job Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- d) Animation or Cartoon like style.

- Colourful and recognisable.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, for casual.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes. 63. Name: Kirsty Age:25 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- e) Original story like style Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, summer Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future? - Yes, they all are pop cultures’ design.

64. Name: Sharon

Age:22

Occupation: Student with part-time job 91

Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - I like simple prints.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes. Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes. 65. Name: Katy Age:22 Occupation: working Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - I like natural prints with cartoon or characters in simple looks Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes. Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes. 66. Name: Emily Age:21 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style I like the little animals Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, I will buy for casual wear Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, people like colourful things 67. Name: Holly

Age: 21

Occupation: Design Student 92

Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- a) Art Nouveau illustrative style - I like vintage and ornate style.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes, I will, for casual wears.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, they are quite popular in fashion market.

68. Name: Jane Age:22 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it? e) Original story like style Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

Yes, depends on how busy the pattern is.

Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, I think they are far more interesting than plain garments which allow people can show their own individual styles.

69. Name: Kelly Age:22 Occupation: Student Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- f) Contemporary Simplified style - Suit my style Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- Yes. Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

- Yes, I think they are quite popular 70. Name: Tracy

Age:22

Occupation: Student with part time job 93

Part IV Following question 3. Choose one illustrative style that you like most and give some comment to explain that why you like it?

- b) Pop art abstract illustrative style.

- Very colourful, active, fashionable and good-looking.

Will you wear or buy it? When will you wear it and Where?

- No, I like to see people wear them on the streets Part V Do you think illustrative style pattern is a popular trend? Will you buy it in future?

Yes, I think they are more popular these years, especially for young people.

94

List of Figures Fig.1 Alphonse Mucha…………………………………………………………………………………………… 11

Sato. T, 2015, F. Mucha- Champenois Imprimeur-Editeur, Lithograph, Japan: Taschen.

Cover page

Fig. 2 Eugène Grasset’ s illustration and pattern design………………………………….…… ..13

Grasset. E,N. A, La Grande Dame, [Online] [Accessed 4th Nov, 2015]. Available from: http://theredlist.com/media/database/graphisme/History/publishing_kodeine/e_gra sset/010_e_grasset_theredlist.jpg 95

Fig.3 Andy Warhol’s illustrative portraits pattern design: female dress………17 and 19

Itsinthecan, 2012, Influences in Fasion, [Online] [Accessed 15th Dec, 2015]. Available from: http://itsinthecan.tumblr.com/post/11434672476/influence-in-fashion Fig. 4 Roy Lichtenstein: Hopeless 1963……………………………………………………………………18

Ostwerwold. T, 1991, Pop Art, London : ThamKöln: Benedikt Taschenes & Hudson, pp 168.

96

Fig. 5 Roy Lichtenstein in his studio at 36 West 26th Street, New York, 1964…….……18

Heyman. K, 1964, The Roy Lichtenstein Foundation Archives, [Online] [Accessed 18th Dec, 2015]. Available from: http://lichtensteinfoundation.org/biography/

Fig. 6 Gianni Versace. Spring/ Summer 1991………………………………………….………………19

Versace. G, 1991, The Collection Online: Evening dress, [Online] [Accessed 20th Dec, 2015]. Available from: http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/83250 97

Fig. 7 McPherson. T, 2012, Seasonal Girls, Oil on Birch, 20 x 24 cm….……………………26

McPherson. Tara, 2015, Seasonal Girls, [Online] [Accessed 20th Dec, 2015]. Available from: http://www.taramcpherson.com/art/Illustrations/Painted/Detail/B8566C/Seasonal+Girls

Fig. 8 Sharon Tancredi, N. A, New Age Tweety, Warner Bros Mechandising….…………26

Tancredi. S, N. A, Portfolio 2, [Online] [Accessed 20th Dec, 2015]. Available from: http://www.sharontancredi.com/Portfolio 2/Site Folder/newagetweety.html 98

Fig. 9 Vintage illustrative style: Mickey Mouse. …………………….………………………….…28

Wheretoget, N. A, Mickey Mouse Vintage 70's T Shirt Ringer Walt Disney Productions Cotton L | eBay, [Online] [Accessed 20th Dec, 2015]. Available from: http://wheretoget.it/link/666762

Fig. 10 Living wall………………………………………………………………………………….…….……….…31

High-Low Tech. 2010. Living wall. [Online]. [Accessed 24th Jan, 2016]. Available from: http://highlowtech.org/?p=27 99

Fig. 11 Digital Printing……………………………………………………………..………………….……….…32

Themisslinds, 2011, Printed Matter Part II: Make Those Prints Yourself, [Online], [6th Feb, 2016 accessed]. Available from: http://www.burdastyle.com/blog/printedmatter-part-ii-make-those-prints-yourself

Fig. 12 Laser Cut……………………………………………………………..………………………….……….…32

Bucci. J, 2013, Laser Cut Fabrics are the Cutting Edge of Fashion, [Online], [6th Feb, 2016 accessed]. Available from:

http://startupfashion.com/laser-cut 100

Fig.13. Fu. J. 2016, Pie Chart, Interviewee Nationality Distribution..…………….…………41 Fig.14 Fu. J. 2016, Column, Chart, Interviewee Age Distribution..……………..…….…..…41 Fig. 15 Fu. J. 2016, Pie Chart, Interviewee Financial Condition………….……….………..…42 Fig. 16 Fu. J. 2016, Column Chart, Consumer behaviour. ………….……………….………..…43 Fig. 17 Fu. J. 2016, Column Chart Consumer Preference in Pattern design. ………...…44 Fig. 18 Fu. J. 2016, Bar Chart Consumer’ preference on illustrative pattern style for fashion. ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………....…45 Fig. 19 Fu. J. 2016, Consumers’ favourite illustrative pattern style ranking.…….......…46

101

List of Fig Collection Fig Collection 1: Alphonse Mucha paintings.………………………….………………….......…11

Miccoli. K, 2015, Alphonse Mucha: Posters & Paintings, [Online], [Accessed 4th Nov, 2015].

Available

from:

https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=VrmtBgAAQBAJ&printsec=frontcover&hl=zhTW#v=onepage&q&f=false Mucha’s designs used repeat pattern coalesce human portrait which provided beautiful scene to the poster design or drawings. Floral, plants-form motifs, geometric shapes or starry sky are founded.

102

Fig Collection 2: Eugene Grasset’s pattern in1870s- 1880s......................................13

Grasset. E, 1988, ART NOUVEAU FLORAL DESIGNS, London : Bracken

103

Fig Collection 3: SPRING/SUMMER 2008: Prada……….....................................……14

VOGUE, 2007, SPRING/SUMMER 2008: Prada, [Online], [Accessed 4th Jan, 2016].

Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2008/ready-towear/prada

104

Fig Collection 4 3D print Alphonse Mucha fashion design …………….......…12 and 15

Aliexpress, N. A, mucha dress Related Products With Reviews, [Online], [Accessed 14th Jan, 2016]. Available from: http://www.aliexpress.com/muchadress_reviews.html 105

Fig Collection 5 Andy Warhol’s drawings, portrait and repeat patterns…….....……17

a.

b.

c.

e. a. Warhol. A, 2004, Andy Warhol fashion, London: Thames & Hudson b and e. Ostwerwold. T, 1991, Pop Art, London : ThamKöln : Benedikt Taschenes & Hudson, pp. 163-164. b. Honnef. K. 1990, Andy Warhol : 1928-1987 : commerce into art, Köln : Benedikt Ta schen 106

Fig Collection 6 Toronto Fashion Week..................................................................‌20 2013 Fall/Winter collection Neon Andy Warhol graphic prints

Gunn. A, 2013, Toronto Fashion Week Wrap-Up: Korhani Home, [Online], [Accessed 14th Jan, 2016]. Available from: http://www.ottawalife.com/2013/03/toronto-fashion-week-wrap-up-korhani-home/ 107

Fig Collection 7: Pepe Jeans: Andy Warhol Spring/summer 2011....................…20

mercoledì 23 marzo, 2011, Andy Warhol by Pepe Jeans _ Spring/summer 2011, [Online], [Accessed 14th Jan, 2016]. Available from: http://www.untitledv.com/2011/03/andy-warhol-by-pepe-jeans-springsummer.html 108

Fig Collection 8: Roy Lichtenstein I……………………………………………………….…………...20

Bilemjian. T, 2014, Five pop artists who have influenced the fashion world, [Online], [Accessed 20th Jan, 2016]. Available from: http://www.buro247.com/me/fashion/trends/five-pop-artists-who-influencedfashion.html

109

Fig Collection 9: Roy Lichtenstein II……………………….…………………………………….………...20

110

Domingo, 2013, Tendência: Estampas Pop Art, [Online], [Accessed 20th Jan, 2016].

Available from: http://vitrine-vintage.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/tendencia-estampas-pop-art.html

Fig Collection 10: Examples of Illustration, cartoon and comic characters.…………...22

f.

g.

h.

f. Wooton. D, 1997, The Illustrators The British Art of Illustration, 1800-1997, London: Chris Beetles g. and h. Wooton. D, 2, The Illustrators The British Art of Illustration, 1800-2007, London: Chris Beetles, pp. 216- 220.

111

Fig Collection 11: Disney illustrative pattern or fashion designs B&W.…….……..24

i. i.

j.

Buzzfeed, 2013, 15 Pieces of Swoon-Worthy Disney Swag for Every Occasion: Alice in Wonderland high waisted skirt, [Online], [Accessed 24th Jan, 2016].

Available from: http://www.buzzfeed.com/kmallikarjuna/pieces-of-swoonworthy-disney-swag-for-every-occasion#.etAjnX703A

j.

Disney Blog, 2015, Black Milk Clothing is Back With Another Ultimate Disney Collection, [Online], [Accessed 24th Jan, 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/362328732497466884/

k.

l.

k. Etsy.a, 201, disney Mickey & Minnie Infinity Scarf, [Online], [Accessed 24th Jan, 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/465911523923491894/ l.

Etsy. B, 2015, Mickey Mouse T-Shirt Dress $42.00 size med, [Online], [Accessed 112

24th Jan, 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/63402307228992267/

m. Smith. K, N. A, Black Milk X Disney [Accessed 24th Jan, 2016]. Available from: https://www.behance.net/gallery/25267753/Black-Milk-X-Disney

113

Fig Collection 12: Catalina Estrada.… ……...……...……...…...……...……...……...….26 to 27

n. Catalina Estrada: Animals in a London Park, with Paul Smith AW/ 07

114

Viction workshop, 2007, FASHION UNFOLDING, Hong Kong: Victionary

o. Catalina Estrada’s pattern with fashion brand designer: Maria Elvira Crosara Digital Moda, 2011, Catalina Catalina Estrada illustrations for brasilian fashion brand Anunciaçao SS 2011 collection, [Online], [Accessed 24th Jan, 2016].

Available from: http://media.onsugar.com/files/2010/08/34/5/560/5601458/53b8b94643b4b9 2a_anunc_pavao_press_low-_1_.jpg

p. Catalina Estrada’s pattern with fashion brand Anunciaçao.

Sugumar. N, 2011, Catalina Estrada: ANUNCIAÇAO S/2010, [Online], [Accessed 24th Jan,

2016].

Available

from:

https://thejadebangle.wordpress.com/2011/12/02/catalina-estrada-2/ 115

Fig Collection 13: POTIPOTI BERLIN……...……...……...……...……...…………...……...…….....28 Collection Womens & Mens Autumn/ Winter 06/07: The Fabula Collection

q. Nando & Silvia, 2016, Collection Womens & Mens Autumn/ Winter 06/07: The Fabula Collection, [Online], [Accessed 24th Jan, 2016]. Available from: http://www.potipoti.com/index.php?/campaign/autumn-winter-06/

r. Viction workshop, 2007, FASHION UNFOLDING, Hong Kong: Victiona 116