the gentlewoman Fabulous women’s magazine, issue n° 9 Spring and Summer 2014
Anurak Donovan
the gentlewoman issue n째 9 Spring and Summer 2014
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the gentlewoman
Aurak Donovam and Mafalda Vaz Stephanie Vieira
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THE LADIES AT LEON
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Engineering Chic and Fashion Geek Femininity has transformed from a trait of the fairer gender to become a quality over centuries and change the structure of different industries and society. With the counteraction of metrosexual male, how does femininity were appreciated and used for the adaption of the new modern society?
Text by Jasmine Law Portraits by Jasmine Law 7
ENGINEERING CHIC AND FASHION GEEK Changing from the University of Central Saint Martin to Brunel University is an interesting yet challenging experience for me. Apart from having a lot more chances to meet people with different mentalities in this miniature of diverse society, the biggest difference of the two is the atmosphere and mentality; it changes from a feminine arty environment to a masculine engineering world. This is what triggered me to explore the mentalities and feminine traits of both gender in industries that require opposite mentality leading to the birth of the article “Engineering Chic and Fashion Geek”.
twisted and misunderstood since the start of the first feminist movement in the late 19th century. With the need of workforce in America during post World War II period, women were required to take over men’s job to serve the nation. Since then, the awareness of female rights was awakened. Women didn’t want to give up their occupation as it represents freedom and options, they started to ask for respect and different social rights, and this is when the Feminism movement started. Till today in this modern world, social status of women has been raised to the level almost equal to men. As half of the population of the world, these improvements of rights and social welfare of women indicates men will have less preserves and power. Although feminism is an ideology for the rights of women, a lot of women have misinterpreted the ideology and some of them do not even know the true meaning of it. The notion of feminism has often been misunderstood as women trying to obtain the same abilities as men in different aspects and thriving themselves to be better than men. This has led to fierce competition between genders in the workplace, with woman feeling satisfaction when they do better than men as men are socially perceived as being more intelligent. However, according the
Let’s start with the boring definition of Feminine and Feminism. Feminine can be interpreted as attributes, behaviours, and roles generally associated with girls and women, made up of both socially-defined and biologically-created factors; while Feminism is a movement and ideology aimed at defining, establishing, and defending equal political, economic, and social rights for women. The womanhood formed by this always encourage women to support each other, and made women stronger than ever. These are the words that men have a love/ hate relationship with since Eva was born; However, definitions and values of feminism seems to be
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ENGINEERING CHIC AND FASHION GEEK result of a report, this principle has led to an negative impact on woman when do not fare as well as men leading to possible self-blame and repulsive feel against men. Therefore, misinterpretation of the ideology of feminism can potentially cause a vicious circle in disliking men.
education can change the unchangeable over time. What a woman can do in this era is aim for balance of both sexes. They should accept that the ultimate inequality cannot be achieved due to biological factor and the traditional value in society which are unchangeable, yet still have the femininity and confidence as a woman. This is the new perception of how a feminist should be in the modern world.
On the other hand, feminists use the name of feminism to ask for equality, but at the same time expecting males to do their social obligations, such as paying for dates. This mostly happens to women who have a higher position and power, resulting in the stereotype and twisted image of feminists being neediness and high-maintenance. When the name of feminism are frequently being used as excuses for gender equality, the fact of the ideology contradicting with the inborn feminine nature of women leave men wondering if he should treat her as a woman or a man, especially at the stage of dating. Even worse, it might result in misandry, especially those who value their masculinity. As there are already countless organisations and legal rules set up to protect the rights of women, such as Title IX, a civil rights act against being subjected to discrimination based on sex. Things that are changeable have mostly been done and only society and
In a world of pop culture, we - “Generation Y” who are born in 80’s and 90’s and growing up under an environment with the prosperity of advance technologies and sufficient funding, we are encouraged to fully utilised our youth to enjoy and explore the world. The changing of women’s gender role, from getting involved in politics, getting the same world of work and actually having orgasm, female have taken a lot of matters reserved for men and enter the masculine world. It also results changes in the gender role in male. Feminine traits started to become more appreciated and commonly found in male, which led to a revolution of masculinity and gender relationships. Nowadays, gay marriages are legalised in at least fifteen countries and metrosexual are born to counteract feminism. Luke (Aurak), Mafalda and Stephanie are invited to participate in this casual and fun interview and talk about the mentality differences and how feminine power are used as an advantage in these two opposite industries, female dominated fashion industry and male dominated engineering industry in modern world.
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Interview of Aurak Donovam (Luke) @ Full Stop Where are you from? I am originally from Thailand. I have been living in London for 10 years. What are you currently doing? I am studying Magazine Publishing at London College of Communication. I am also excited about the styling for Sister Gracie in his music video. Do you have any quirk? Yeah I actually do. I drink everything with straws, even coffee. What is your sexuality? I like guys. Why do you want to be in fashion industry? The word “fashion” intrigued me. You get to meet different types of people and be in exciting environment. Everyone is loving in fashion, so it is completely opposite to what people think it is. Did your family background/ culture inspire you to pursue fashion industry? My mum really loves textiles. She used to go to textile school; I guess that gene has passed it onto me. She used to love making little things and accessories. We are like friends and sisters who love to comments on each other’s outfit before going out. Fashion is our common hobby. What is your ultimate goal in Fashion Industry and why? I would love to dominate publishing world. I prefer fashion publishing because it’s more dynamic and exciting. Do you think the stereotype about fashion industry is true? Some of the girls are kind of bitchy. But when you get to meet the people who are actually passionate about fashion, they are no different from normal people, such as Sarah Burge, who is the fashion director of Alexander Mcqueen, she dresses simple and down to earth. It is a protective world, to be successful in this world, fashion has to become your life-time passion,
so they ask for quality and taste in life as well. Therefore everyone wants to be part of the world. However in a world like this, not everyone can get in. Plenty of people do not mind doing loads of unpaid internship to get in. Therefore, there are reasons of the stereotype of snobbiness. Are there any common area and differences of the design from a male designer and a female designer? I think the advantage of being homosexual is we got to feel both masculine and feminine side. Male designers are more experimental, so I guess that’s what makes us more creative. I think females think more about appearance and functionality during design process. They pay attention to details more. I guess I get the most out of both sides. Are there any prejudgements and barriers as a gay man in fashion industry? No actually. I think we are more approachable; this is what gets us in. And that’s why girls like us. To be perfectly honest, there are more straight men in professional world, but the public saw more gay guys in Fashion Industry because they are more fashionable and this is how the public relate to them. Straight guys are more likely to work at the back stage, such as fashion journalists and photographers. Gay men tend to become fashion designers. As you can see most of the top designers are guys. Straight men have masculine mind, they are more judgemental therefore they are better in terms of management. Are there any muscular model working in Fashion Industry? It depends on what brand. For example, Dolce & Gabbana used muscular guys as models. For most of the other brands, I would say they are lean and tall. In general they are fit. Do you think there are needs for you to change to fit in the industry? I need to adapt and survive into anything in the future, such as refining my verbal skills. Networking is the most important thing. If
you are a good talker, it can get you anywhere in all industries. Please list 3 words describing Fashion Industry. Loving, Demanding, Forward thinking. Please list 3 words to be successful in Fashion Industry Respect, Nice, Hardworking. Do you think you can be friends with engineers? Yes I think I can be friend with anyone. The most important is how they think and there is something that they are passionate about. They can be a very interesting person to be work with. We can exchange a lot of ideas. How would you define feminine? I would say an aesthetic that imply to a person or objects with strong sense of delicacy. How would you define feminism? A vision of motherhood. Females who are driven to protect their basics civil rights in society. How do you think the society view feminism? I think media need to pay more attention on feminism. There isn’t enough inspiring feminism story out there to encourage female to achieve their fulfilment in personal life or profession. Perhaps that’s why male dominate environment still not fully accepted feminism. Do you think homosexual male can be a feminist? Do you count yourself as one? Yes, a gay person who stood up for their rights in society is equal to a feminist. No, I didn’t feel the need for me to call myself a feminist. How would you define the term metrosexual? Do you count yourself as one? Yes, metrosexual refer to a particular type of guy who pay more attention about their appearance and I would count myself as one as I assume majority of guy nowadays are metrosexual. Do you think the definition of feminist and feminine have change over time? No as for feminists they still have the same intention to equalise gender domination as 100 years ago but perhaps the perception of feminine has change overtime as we as a cultural has progressed and open for experimental idea of feminine.
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Aurak Donovam
I DRINK EVERYTHING WITH STRAW. EVEN COFFEE.
Mafalda Vaz
MY FRIENDS BACK IN HIGH SCHOOL LOVED PLAYING POKÉMON ON THEIR CALCULATOR. FOR ME, I LOVE FASHION.
Interview of Mafalda Vaz and Stephanie Vieira @ Harris+Hooles Where are you from?? How long have you been in the UK? Portugal. I have been here for 5 months. What are you currently doing? I am currently studying electronic engineering in Brunel University for my first year. Do you have any weird habit(s)? Stephanie: I talk too much and get distracted all the time, but I guess these don’t count. Mafalda: I don’t think I have any weird habit. What is your ultimate goal? What about in engineering field? I would like to finish university, get a really nice job, and be successful in engineering field. What is your sexuality? Straight. Why do you want to be an engineer? When I was in high school, I was really interested in physics and maths and I know I am going to pick them as my major in university. Did your family background/ culture inspired to be an engineer? Not really. My dad works for Navy and my mum was a kindergarten teacher. I am the first one in the engineering field. People who study engineering are stereotyped as intelligent and nerdy? Do you agree with it? When I was in high school, some of my classmates played pokemon in their calculator and they wear glasses as well, so I agree
that they look nerdy, brainny and intelligent. The course is actually really hard and everyone finds it different. I have met a few guys who are quite intelligent today at lunch. One of the guys in the course answer all the questions correctly. Acadamically, some of them are really good. Have you experience any stereotype? You can tell a lot of unwelcome feeling by just walking into the lecture room, it makes us feel like we shouldn’t be there because they think that we don’t understand anything. S: We had a MDP week last week, we need to do a project together as a group with students from mechanical and civil engineering cousre. I was looking for the week as we get the chance to work with different groups and fields. It is unbelievable how they made me feel so unwanted. They think that I don’t know and couldn’t do anything. I was told not to touch because they scared that I might broke it. They think they are better than me but they are not. There are so many guys in the course that when you were close with one of them, they would think that we fancy them as well. This is one of the disadvantages. M: There are also positive stereotype as well. People will think that we are really intelligent when they found out we are doing engineering, it is a good feeling. Are there any prejudgement and barriers of being a girl in professional engineering field? M: Yes. There are so many male in engineering field, sometimes company prefers boys
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over girls. S: Boys don’t like competition with girls. They wouldn’t believe it if girls are better in the subject than them. Therefore there are always motivated as girls in engineeringfield. We want to prove ourselves. Are there any values that only female engineers can contribute in Engineering Industy? I think we can multi-task better and we are more socialable compare to guys. These are our advantages and are traits that desired by the companies. What is the value of engineering in today’s society? It worths a lot. It is basically the whole world. You won’t find anywhere without engineering at all. It is a very big society. What can you see in the future of engineering? And what does it affect? It keeps evolving. When we were born, there were no ipads, and that was only 10 years ago. Internet was developed within these 10 years, we have already fully utilised with the internet, such as online shopping, internet banking, video camera with people accross countries. Floppy discs which were used 10 years ago almost completely disappeared, they are now replaced by hard drives and USB, a device which is much smaller but with a larger storage. I think there will be more robots in 10 years. What do you think about the effect of the future technology in 10 years? Kids have to be very lucky to have a lap-
top at our young age. Kids nowsaday have a laptop to learn. Imagine we have children, they maybe smart enough to cheat using computer. Crime that made by the new technology will be more common compare to physical crime. What are you happy and not happy with the industry? I am happy to work in this field but this field needs more girls definitely. What do you think about fashion and fashion industry? I love fashion. I read a lot of fashion blogs and I love shopping as well. It is better to have your own style instead of blindly following the trend. I only buy clothes and accesories that I know I would wear all the time., or else they are just gonna stay in the closet. Do you think you are creative? I don’t think I am as creative in terms of arty and fashion. It is hard for me to come up with ideas from scratch, I prefer being spired by object surrounds me. Are you interested in Fashion? Can you see yourself in Fashion Industry? I like fashion. To be in high fashion, you need to be extra eccentric, you need to have your own style. To be successful in the industry, you have to be original and extra ordinary, and come up with ideas that people will truely appreciate and inspied. I probably see myself in magazine publishing or a photographer, although I can see it can be a really stressful job. Do you find yourself any differences between girls in other field/ fashion field?
S: I don’t think people in high fashion will take my style very seriously, I am very laid back. But if you wear really nice in engineering, people would think that you are dressing up for it. I would say we have a different mindset. Because they are in fashion industry, they tend to concern more about their appearance and outfit. We still think about that too, but they need to wear something unique and look nice. I think we know how to speak to different kind of boys. I think they probably have two kinds: gay and straight. I think it can be bitchy in the industry. List 3 words describing engineering industry. Different, hardwork, curiosity. List 3 words to be successful in engineering field. Ambitious, Hardworking, toughskin. How do you define feminine? I would define ‘feminine’ as someone who is very girly - some boys can be in touch with their feminine side How do you define feminism? feminism - I would say its the same answer as feminine. How do you think the society view feminism? In engineering I think girls are betrayed differently, some men think we are not capable to what what they do etc. Also some guys are afraid to show off their feminine side due to being bullied, or being called gay etc Do you know the word metrosexual? Do
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you count yourself as one? metrosexual - I don’t know what that is.. Do you think the definition of feminist and feminine have change over time? I agree that is has changed due to the fact we do similar jobs. When having a baby, some females want to go to work and not to stay at home and look after the baby. Before this was seen as something that the ‘female’ would have to do. I’m glad it’s not longer like that, and I think it will keep changing for the better..
Stephanie Vieira
THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN US AND FASHION GIRLS ARE
WE GET TO TALK TO DIFFERENT TYPE OF BOYS. I THINK THEY PROBABLY HAVE TWO KINDS: GAY AND STRAIGHT.
ENGINEERING CHIC AND FASHION GEEK Metrosexual, a neologism that derived from metropolitan and heterosexual, coined in 1994 also came out from the underground. It does not only apply to homosexual male, but also to female, heterosexual, and bisexual. Mark Simpson, the father of metrosexual and David Bowie, the late 20th Century progenitor of metrosexuality are great examples. They have fully interpreted the connotation of metrosexual male with their urban, post-industrial, capitalist culture life style.
the fashoingeek
however with the visual culture, such as male models in Fashion, as well as the Facebook culture, which emphasise the appearance of oneself, people growing up under these culture see it as a norm, they even adopted it as a strategy to live under modern world. A male being a rugby player while being a model at the same time is not a rare case anymore. To be specific, metrosexual is a new and creative
They are meticulous about their grooming and appearance. The arise of the metrosexual males has been controversial, there was a gap between them and the rest of the male,
role for male to adapt to the world where women’s social status continues to rise. The way women were objectified and the branding of a product are now being applied to
“Most of all, we’re living in a visual, looking-glass culture of selfies, Facebook, Twitter, reality TV and Men’s Health covers. Metrosexuality represents men’s adaptation to this new world order – men can’t just ‘act’ any more they have ‘appear’ too, to be looked at. To be noticed. To be a brand. To be wanted. Male vanity isn’t empty and indulgent – it’s a survival strategy.” males. Masculine are being aestheticalised, moustache are being accessorised, to personal hygiene. The ‘branding’ of oneself does not only limit to his appearance anymore but also a way of presenting both his taste and self-discipline. If you look around, metrosexual males are mostly seen in the design world. Why? Because the brand of oneself, which we called it personal identity always has the effect of self-advertising. How a designer dress always reflects the style and quality of his designs. Imagine you are planning to employ a graphic designer to design the menu of your newly started restaurant, both of them have a similar quality portfolio but there is one who are better dressed, who would you choose? It does not only apply to design industries but all differ-
ent. In Luke’s case, he does not only get to experience the mentalities and understand the needs of both genders, but also having the physical advantage of being a male, which is beneficial when it comes to a female-dominated industry which required details consideration and communication efficiency. I have decided to call him greedy and I am jealous about it! In a male-dominated industry, it is actually dominated by straight male, and this is the biggest difference of a male working in a female-dominated industry. Gender bias and stereotyping are always the main reason that turns girls off from the STEM field, not only whey they are in the profes-
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ENGINEERING CHIC AND FASHION GEEK sional industry, but also through the educational system. Stephanie’s experience of being told not to touch anything in case of ruining the mode is a good example. Female would also come across situation that they need to work extra hard to prove themselves while there will be times that work would be taken credit by the male engineer as well as having a lower salary. However, according to the Institute for Women’s Policy Research, the five careers that pay equal and slightly high wages for women includes system engineers,
the Engineering Chic
industry. And in general, it will take until 2056 or sooner for women’s earning to equal that of men. I would believe that these fields would be the toughest fields to achieve equality of the gender gap; yet, they are some of the first. And if equality of the salary between both genders can be achieved, it does prove that women would have the same ability as male in any field.
Surprisingly, Mafalda and Stephanie are not frustrated yet found it enjoyable in an industry where female outnumbered male. You might find it surprising to see both of them are not typical nerdy girls wearing a pair
electrical engineers, mechanical engineer, videographer and computer repair technician, which are all male-dominated
“Women’s labor force participation has shot up and women are receiving college degrees and graduate degrees at faster rates than men -- yet the gender wage gap is improving very slowly.”
of thick-lens glasses playing Pokémon on their calculators, but two fashionable and elegant ladies embracing their femininity, yet enjoying where curiosity have brought them to. It is completely normal for them to work extra hard to prove their abilities in this industry. Hard work is definitely one of the factors to succeed. However, comparing female and male in born nature, it is scientifically proven that women are better at multi-tasking and communication, which is what a company value.
the Engineering Chic
After fighting for the rights of women through history, feminists have tried their best to get the best for women. In this new era, feminist needs to be redefined. It does not only
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mean a woman fighting for equal right for women but also ask for the same right of the opposite gender. It is a new life style and attitude of a strong woman in this modern time, but also a peacemaker between both sexes. With the birth of metrosexual male, masculinity and femininity counteracts each other attempting to achieve the equality of both sexes. However, is this ever going to be achievable? After all, male and female are born differently both physically and mentally; no matter how hard each of the gender tries to adapt the opposite sex’s mentality, there are always gaps in between, but this is what makes the diversity society alive – differences.
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