N° 18/12 EDITION
18
THE WORLD’S LEADING HAIR FASHION MAGAZINE
TRENDS Colour palette FEATURE Men’s grooming techniques, styling tips and fashion trends INTERVIEW Rossano Ferretti Anthony Mascolo
1 8 TH E D I T I O N 2012
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C O N T E N T ESTETICA No.18/2012 – EIGHTEENTH EDITION 2012
Picture supplied by Schwarzkopf Professional Published under licence from Estetica, Edizioni Esav srl, Turin/Italy Published by Topco Media 5th Floor Pinnacle Building Strand Street Cape Town Ph: 086 000 9590 Fax: 021 423 7876 Email: info@estetica.co.za Website: www.estetica.co.za STAFF Publisher Richard Fletcher General Manager Van Fletcher Editor Cindy Horton
Lightweight creative. Dandy whimsical, cinematic appeal. Dazzling colours, fairy-tale features. Once upon a time...
Chief Sub-Editor Sheheema Albertyn-Burton Design Jayne Mace
Advertising & Business Development Manager Lizel Jonker Subscriptions ingrid.johnstone@topco.co.za CONTRIBUTORS Printers Paarl Media Paarl
contents 2.indd 2
FASHION
10
Catwalks
Fashion Week
16
Looks
Hollywood Intrigue
20
Trends
Colour Palette
25
Accessories
Wintery Forecast
27
Beauty
Women
29
Beauty
Men
30
Trends
Great Grooming
34
Catwalks
Modern Men
43
Vision
Creative Simplicity
48
Vision
Sensual Liberation
2012/06/15 1:28 PM
Today good grooming means more than a cut and shave. Relax and pamper yourself.
MODA:
INTERNATIONAL
TRENDS
PROFESSIONAL
54 Urban Style
96
Competition
68 High Society
97
Feature
76 Dreaming
98 Interviews
The Tigi Heritage
86 Prêt à Porter
104
Universe Ferretti
Interview
ESTETICA Men
106 Advice
Shave Alert
110
Paul Mitchell
Interview
113 News
Report
116 Agenda
Calender
120 Products
Reviews
125 Subscriptions ESTETICA AFRO 127 Subscriptions ESTETICA 128 Stockists
ESTETICASOUTHAFRICA|7
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E D I T O R I A L Picture supplied by Schwarzkopf Professional
Cindy Horton Editor Estetica South Africa cindy.horton@estetica.co.za
From a young age my mom taught me a very basic beauty routine which has stuck with me ever since. Not a night goes by where my mascara isn’t removed or my night cream isn’t applied. My mother would save money wherever possible, but not on her beauty products. All her pots of promises, neatly lined up on her dressing table. I would watch her go through her strict routine, from cleansers to creams and finally make-up. Often trying to copy her, I would end up with make-up everywhere but the desired place. My father on the other hand is a real ‘mans-man’ who works outdoors in comfy clothes and durable shoes. His morning routine takes about 20 minutes and consists of a bar of soap, toothpaste, deodorant and aqueous cream used from head to toe. So you can imagine my surprise when I started realising that my professional hair products and expensive face creams started diminishing rather quickly. At the same time my boyfriend’s complexion was looking rather radiant. The reality is that men nowadays are becoming more aware of their appearance and want to improve their looks wherever possible. Gone are the days when a man’s beauty routine consisted of soap and water. Almost every reputable beauty and hair brand has launched a men’s range targeting their specific needs. Therefore, I thought it was only fair to compile a men’s feature showcasing the latest men’s fashion trends, styling tips and grooming techniques. In this edition, ESTETICA interviews key male hairstylists and finds out how they are influencing the industry. I was extremely fortunate to meet world renowned hairstylists Robert Cromeans and Angus Mitchell while in South Africa. Robert’s eccentric personality and all-consuming passion for the industry is infectious and enough to excite anybody. It was an absolute honour to meet Angus, the son of legendary stylist Paul Mitchell, and it is evident that he has inherited his father’s talent and enthusiasm towards the hair industry. Read more on these dynamic personalities in International Flair on pages 110-112. Update your look with the latest Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 catwalk trends, from the likes of John Richmond and Vivienne Westwood, found on pages 34-41 and refresh your appearance with the must-have men’s beauty products on page 29. We have dedicated this edition to the stylish, daring and inquisitive men out there. I hope that we have inspired you to try new things and answered some of your troubling questions. Happy grooming!
Cindy Horton Editor
ESTETICASOUTHAFRICA|9
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Have a
look!
Peter Jensen
Simply chic or jaw-droppingly impressive, this season’s hair is as fashionable as it’s functional.
B
umble and bumble’s team of hair creatives were a defining presence behind the scenes at all the four major Fashion Week schedules for Spring/Summer 2012 – and time has shown they were spot on-trend! They took a two-sided approach by combining and contrasting chic sophisticated classics with daring, forward-thinking exoticism. Four London shows in particular symbolised and illustrated the creative threads that wove the Bb. signature styles for the season. For Margaret Howell and Ann-Sofie Back Atelje the Bb. Editorial Stylists featuring Neil Moodie and Ali Pirzadeh created ‘real girl’ styles with subtle but striking embellishments. To accentuate gathered hair and simple buns, the team played with texture and finish, also imparting softness to give a loose, dressed-down feel. At the PeterJensen show it was once again hair-ups, well... of a fashion! Following on from a trend he’d established the previous week in NYC of braiding, teasing and undone extravagance, Neil Moody started off by rough blow drying the hair before backcombing, crimping and straightening to create the illusion of Afro texture with light, airy volume. For the Chistopher Raeburn show, sylist Bianca Tuovi worked in absolute contrast to much of the structured hair-up and often slick looks that have been so prominent this season. Relaxed, sporty and tousled with texture, strong blocked The London Olympics colour delivered a no-nonsense complement to a will create sports-chic collection where emphasis had been placed fever, so be ready! on the depth and texture of the fabrics. In a season of harsh economic uncertainty in which versatility really does count for so much, the Bb. Editorial Stylists have once again proven that a ponytail is never just a ponytail, an up-do doesn’t have to be completely up and lived-in texture and natural waves can be as beautiful and enchanting as even the most sculptured style! Christopher Raeburn
Margaret Howell
As London catches its breath after the extraordinary runway shows for Fashion Week AW12. We step back on-trend and revisit what the SS predictions said we’d be wearing now!
C A T W A L K S
photooniPad
(below) The Bb. Art Team working on the LFW SS12 collections.
This season’s key Bb. runway products Shine On Finishing Spray, Bb. Gel, Surf Spray, Hair Powder, Prep, Thickening Hairspray and Bb. Texture.
Catwalks photos: IMAXtree.com/Vincenzo Grillo
Ann Sofie Back Atelje
Peter Jensen
Margaret Howell
Ann Sofie Back Atelje
c
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 11
Caroline Charles
Nabil El-Nayal
Fyodor Golan
Heide Leung Belle Sauvage
Catwalks photos: IMAXtree.com/Vincenzo Grillo
C A T W A L K S
Fyodor Golan
Caroline Charles
...and L’Oréal Professionnel at London Fashion Week...
The Spring/Summer collections at London Fashion Week turned up some defining looks created by the LP Portfolio Session Team. For the colourful, bright and bold Caroline Charles show, Jonny Engstrom at Guy Kremer took inspiration from a Tim Walker shoot for Vogue with a country feel which integrated the modern woman with an essential retro look reminiscent of the 1950s. Jonny also worked backstage at Fashion Fringe as part of the LP Portfolio Session Team creating the hair for Latvian designer Fyodor Golan, whose collection was inspired by a nymph who lives through a painful metamorphosis, grasping support from nature around her: Californian Heidi Leung, was inspired by Orientalism and celebrity snapshots from the 60s; and Syrian-born Nabil El-Nayal’s ‘All the riches she deserves’. Back to the main runway events, and Mark Woolley from Electric styled for designer Daniel James, with a collection of seductive dresses and separates constructed in the finest butter-soft rubber, lace and chiffon. Hair was inspired by Bladerunner with a baroque feel, achieved by creating a reverse symmetrical roll from a centre parting, with minimal texture for a slick finish. To enhance his levels of nervous energy, Mark was being followed by a film crew from Sky Living, so no pressure then! Over at the Belle Sauvage show, Sam Burnett, Tina Farey and the team from RUSH Hair were working backstage on a Belle Sauvage show which featured their signature digital graphic prints integrated into a range of colourful dresses and separates in bright colours and with contrasting sheer and opaque fabrics. Sensual body con moulded leather contrasted with feminine box pleated chiffon in a palette of yellow, magenta, mint, and lilac. Hemlines were short and shoulders and hiplines emphasised. The inspiration for the hair was a combination of two iconic eras: the 1940s pinned-up waves merged with a sensational mix of modern pop-art classics.
LP Portfolio Session Team working behind the scenes at London Fashion Week (top to bottom) Jonny Engstrom @ Guy Kremer, Tina Farey @ Rush and ark Woolley @ Electric.
Essential, bang on-trend but with a touch of super-retro chic!
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 13
Hollywood
intrigue
With three new edge-of-your seat films – all box office hits – these guys are sexy, talented, sometimes naughty and – apparently for the moment – AVAILABLE!
A
s if people didn’t have enough to worry about nowadays, three new films have been reminding filmgoers that things could be worse, with George Clooney’s political intrigue (The Ides of March), Jude Law in a viral apocalypse (Contagion), and Ryan Gosling in an old-fashioned thriller (Drive). Although none of these is a classic “chick flick”, with these three in starring roles (Gosling also co-stars with Clooney, something tells us the femmes are lining up at the ticket offices!). ESTETICA asked Garret Hamabata to give us his professional opinion of the looks these three leading men sport on the red carpet and around town for KMS California. Garret is Master Stylist and Educational Director at the renowned Vim and Vigor Salon where he specialises in working with the natural texture of his client’s hair and creating styles that are personalised, versatile and low maintenance. Working with KMS California is a perfect fit for Garret, thanks to his belief in celebrating individuality and focusing on versatility in haircuts.
Photo: Getty Images
L O O K S
le
sty
cut
9 9 10
fit
out
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— 9.7
George Clooney As always, sophisticated and classy. His hair is styled with more of a matte, dry finish which goes well with the colours of the overall look. Having his hair parted is a nice touch that adds to the neat, crisp style. The cut could have been cleaned up just a little bit more around the sides and some of the weight taken out for a little less bulk. Overall, you can’t go wrong with George!
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 17
Photo: Getty Images
Jude Law It’s nice to have natural textures to work with. He has soft waves that give body and fullness with minimal effort in styling. He used a light shine product to tame the curls and add separation. The cut could be approached a little differently to be more flattering for his face shape. It seems to be in an ‘in between’ length. His curls are used here to match his laidback appearance.
le
sty
cut
8 8 9
fit
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— 8.3
Photo: Getty Images
L O O K S
cut
10 10 10
fit
out
— 10
ook
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Photo: Getty Images
le
sty
Ryan Gosling In this photo the hairstyle goes well with Ryan’s sleek but carefree look. With the cut being a little on the longer side, it shows a little less reserve and adds a bit of youth. It’s styled in a more polished manner, which contributes to the good boy, sex appeal. His facial hair is a good added touch to balance out his dressy, casual outfit.
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 19
Colour
palette
Rihanna, Katy Perry, Alexa Chung, Jessie J, Florence Welch; modern edgy girls inspiring clients to get a much more embrightening life as colour chameleons....
F
rom dip dying to Balayage, Ombre to colour wash, today’s technician has a limitless palette to help recreate celebrity looks and express their artistry. “This spring/summer is all about colour revival,” says Fudge UK Educator Lorraine Matic. “Dip dying has made a huge impression and we’ll see more Balayage for a sun kissed look (think Sarah Jessica Parker) and Ombre techniques for subtle contrast (think Drew Barrymore). Meanwhile, fashion meets advanced chemistry with hair colour formulas that contain things like proteins, lipids, and oil infusions for deep conditioning during the colour process. While spring’s hair
Jesse J
Rihanna
Katy Perry
Colour on blonde, tone-on-tone, or warm contrasts. as long as its created by a professional.
by Maria Weijers
Celebrity photos: Getty Images
colour palette includes very bold shades, it’s the choice between a blended application of tone-on-tone variations and sheer translucent uniform colour that looks modern and stays looking fresh that's becoming the darling of the professional colourist.
Tonal quality
At Aveda’s Covent Garden Institute, Technical Director Bruno Elorrioroz uses modernised Full Spectrum Permanent Crème Hair Colour to create strong shades and pastel tones. Technique-wise he designs two-dimensional effects by applying the first coat with pure pigment, followed by the base colour over the top. “This creates a lovely shimmer or a veil-type tone,” says Bruno. “Hyper real” is how Ian Michel Black, Aveda’s Global Colour Director, describes today’s current trend for “discrete warmth that mimics the way your uncoloured hair reacts to the sun”. For the right balance he uses Aveda’s new ammonia free and organic Full Spectrum Colour with pure pigments in both primary and secondary colours. “Any colour that exists in nature is possible with this range”, he explains. Beautiful blended tones are de rigeur at Ekko, a La Biosthétique concept salon in
T R E N D S
TIGI
TIGI
linkoniPad
Mark Leeson
Fudge
New technologies transform colour experimentation into an exciting new opportunity.
Pick your shade: red on black, blonde on blonde, or a combination of auburn and brown.
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 21
La Biosthetique
Aveda
Indola
Redken
This season’s colour is a beautiful choice between blended tone-on-tone variations and translucent uniform colour.
Aveda
Today good grooming means more than a cut and shave. Relax and pamper yourself
T R E N D S
As Global Ambassador for Goldwell, Mark has a new colour favourite. “I’m blown away by the conditioning properties and really impressive colour results of the company’s new Nectaya colour. It’s ammonia free, 92 percent of the ingredients are of natural origin, and there are 36 shades to choose from – it’s brilliant."
Statement shades Moving up a gear from blonde to brown dip dye graduations, contrasting bright, jewel-like colours will take centre stage, according to Indola Global Ambassador, Leonardo Rizzo at Sanrizz. “Statement shades of pinks, reds
Colour Washing
So for now, bright hair paint and colours processed to the texture of straw are best left to women who work the red carpet at music and TV award shows and galas or gals who still think it's ok to colour their hair from a box kit bought at the local chemists. Spring’s newest formulas will keep people guessing if it's naturally yours or gazing in headturning amazement at how beautiful professionally coloured, deeply conditioned hair can be.
Bérénice Marlohe
Loving the colour experimentation of Rihanna and Florence Welch, TIGI Colour Innovation Coordinator, Julie Lapite, expects a lot more pastel tones appearing in slices and colour blocking, with a powder puff cross-smudging technique to create a diffused finish, like colour washes created by watercolour artists. “I’m really enjoying creating colours using TIGI’s new copyrightcolour range – inventing my own colours with total freedom and 100 percent confidence they’ll work pushes my creativity,” says Julie. “The range allows risk-free, unorthodox total mixability, meaning infinite colouring opportunities and outstanding results.”
Celebrity photos: Getty Images
In Mark Leeson’s Hair Body and Mind Mansfield salon, dip dyeing is still big news and as Rihanna’s red remains a younger clients’ request, Mark expects a surge for synthetic colours. “Pink, green, red – you name it, we’ll see it,” says Mark. “Jessie J’s all-over intense and glossy colour will also be popular, with bright slices of copper, amber or chocolate through the fringe for that extra wow-factor.”
Alexa Chung
Dipping in
and greens will be worn at the tips of hair, as well as up and down the hair lengths as bands of colour,” says Leonardo. “Placed horizontally, a ruby band on short hair gives a headband effect and placing near the neck on longer lengths makes for a scarf-type effect.”
Try taking your colour cues from red-carpet divas.
Florence Welch
Banbury. “Using La Bio’s new Shine & Tone Advanced, our colour shading technique sees diamond, triangle and oblong shapes being coloured in two or three different tones which infuse the colour together, giving a wonderfully melded, glossy colour effect,” says the salon’s Julia Williams.
Any colour that exists in nature can be recreated or even enhanced. E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 23
速
Perfect Bond Hair Extensions
A C C E S S O R I E S
Wintery
Forecast
Melissa
Versace
Ray-Ban
Seiko
Unique Rose Quartz, sterling silver and leather bracelets from Joya. Melissa’s stylish plastic shoes are 100 percent recyclable and ecologically sound. Trend setting watches from Lorus and Seiko. Stylish eyewear from Versace and Ray-Ban. Opium from Yves Saint Laurent is a unique blend of oriental, floral and spicy notes. Lorus
Yves Saint Laurent
Melissa
Joya
Earthy tones and shades of brown and green. Spicy, oriental and floral fragrances. Slip your feet into elegant eco-friendly shoes, and accessorise with this seasons stylish watches and decoratvie bracelets.
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 25
Extra amazing
Introducing Extra Repair Foundation SPF 25 Finally, a serious moisturizing treatment foundation that combines intensive skin nourishing benefits with daily sun protection and skin tone correct coverage. Super emollient and luxurious, Extra Repair Foundation SPF 25 instantly gives skin a fresh, dewy and healthy looking glow. Over time, it helps undo the visible signs of aging, smoothing out lines while firming and lifting skin’s appearance. Consider it your little secret to perfect skin.
See The Extra Difference
Visit the Bobbi Brown Counter and we’ll show you how to get smooth luminous skin. You’ll receive a personalized face chart and foundation sample. Visit www.bobbibrown.co.za or your nearest Bobbi Brown counter.
*One per customer. While supplies last.
Visit us on facebook: www.facebook.com/BobbiBrownSA
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B E A U T Y
Theatrical
Beauty
Catrice
Chanel
Revlon
Eco Products
Expression and extravagance. Add a little bit of drama into your beauty routine. For sexy eyes that turn every lady into a diva. Be a star everyday. Let the show begin.
Maybelline
DMK
Rimmel
Catrice
The Eco Products Baobody exfoliating body scrub contains crushed baobab seeds and salt crystals to exfoliate dead skin cells. Revlon ColorBurst Lip Butter in Candy Apple and Strawberry Shortcake. Lashes for Show Down and Shimmering Powder from the limited edition Welcome to Las Vegas by CATRICE. Volum’Express the Colossal Cat Eyes mascara from Maybelline. DMK Premier Make-up brushes. Rimmel I Love Lasting Finish Nail Polish in Purple Reign.
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 27
NEW
Our new design is a reflection of what we believe in and are inspired by: an intriguing, colorful diversity of people and their distinct expressions of style. We use bold, unexpected colors, clear differentiation and
NEW DESIGN
LOOKS
PROVEN QUALITY straightforward typography to channel this creative energy and produce a design that transcends pure function. For over 30 years we have developed highly performing and reliable professional salon products to
enrich and simplify the lives of stylists and their clients. Today our formula philosophy remains the same. We continue to blend the best of technology and nature, creating innovative and effective products to meet your ever-changing style needs.
KAO South Africa • 011 312 5070
INSPIRED BY YOU
B E A U T Y
Gentle
Care
Dermalogica
LCN
Matis
Pure Beginnings shave créme with cooling effect will leave you feeling refreshingly cool after your shave. Give the skin a matt, smoother and healthier appearance with the Bema Bio BioEcoMan Cream for Mixed Skin. Bleu de Chanel is a fresh, citrus and aromatic woody men’s fragrance from Chanel. LCN Man Foot Cream Sports inhibits the onset of foot odours. Matis Réspones Homme high precision shaving gel. Minimise nicks, cuts and razor burn with Dermalogica Close Shave Oil. Sixties inspired Ray-Ban sunglasses with ‘typedelic’ features. The latest Stenströmes gents range available at Stuttafords stores.
Ray-Ban
Stenströmes
Pure Beginnings
Bema Bio
Chanel
Daily shaving and environmental pollutants causes the skin to become irritated and sensitive. Cool, soothe and calm the skin with these innovative and refreshing products.
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 29
Great
Grooming As technology improves on targeted products for him, men are cultivating a taste for looking the best they can. Move over girls! It’s a man’s world!
'Effortless elegance' means a precise cut that can be dressed up or down with minimal hassle.
by Kendall Farr
M
ost guys can tell a stylist how they don’t want their hair to look. Not too styled or too trendy and not like they spend a lot of time thinking about it, but looking ‘effortless’ takes some effort. ESTETICA asked A-List groomers to tell us what every man should know before his next haircut.
Alexander Skarsgard
The Cut
Tell your stylist about your career and lifestyle to come up with the right look, but since stylists and colorists are artists and not clairvoyants, thumb through the men’s magazines to see what looks good and bring pictures to your appointment. Supplying visuals does not brand you as a style slave, it just
Robert Pattinson
Ashton Kutcher
linkoniPad
Celebrity photos: Getty Images
helps get your ideas across. What do most men want? “The most common request is to be stylish and modern. Having a versatile style is also key,” says Jenny Balding a Redken For Men consultant.
Stop Using A Girl’s Shampoo
It’s not just that it smells a bit floral. It’s not made for your hair. Your scalp is thicker and pumps out twice the oil as a woman’s, and oil buildup leads to sensitivities like dryness, redness, dandruff and psoriasis. Patrick Kalle, Farouk Systems European Artistic Director recommends buying products with key ingredients, like folic acid, that break down oil build-up and plantderived formulas that clean without irritation. You also want something with Vitamins A, B2, C, E and K that nourish and strengthen the hair says Kalle. He recommends CHI 44 Ionic Power Plus Shampoo. Aveda Men sells an exfoliating shampoo designed to relieve irritation and ‘congestion’, otherwise known as the clogged hair follicles that lead to hair loss. Mitch Double Hitter from Paul Mitchell Systems is a sulfatefree formula that washes and conditions in one step.
Redken
SOPHISTICATED Today a guy can make almost any length work, if he’s willing to work at it!
Charlie Price for Scruples
Patrick Kalle for Farouk Systems
T R E N D S
Long and midlengths may require more styling time including a shave. Short hair and close-trimmed beards are a perfect match. E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 31
Kms Artistic Team Redken Tim Howard for Aveda
Ask for a consultation: bring in pics and talk about your lifestyle to get just the right look for you.
Today good grooming means more than a cut and shave. Relax and pamper yourself.
GUY NEXT DOOR
T R E N D S
Salt And Pepper happening, I‘ll have a staff member check his hands and offer a complimentary touch up,” says Timothy Day Howard, Aveda Men Purefessional and Creative Director at Sound Salon Spa in St. John’s, Newfoundland, Canada.
Hair Loss
For some men, it is a counterintuitive move. When they start to lose their hair, they compensate by growing it longer. On the issue of hair loss our stylists are unanimous: thinning hair looks thicker when it is worn short. “It’s all about balancing density patterns, says Sonna Brado a Goldwell Team Artist. “Texturise areas that are thicker to visually balance thinner hair, making it appear fuller. Nioxin recently introduced Diamax, a topical thickening treatment offering, a cocktail formulated to hydrate and penetrate the cortex. Applied to damp hair, the clear gel expands the diameter of individual hair strands for a thicker appearance.
Shia La Boeuf
It’s not just the hair on your head that needs regular trims. “As a stylist you need to create a balance between the volume of a guy’s haircut and his facial hair. Most men don’t realise that their facial hair, ear and nose hair and eyebrows should all be trimmed, too,” says Pravana celebrity stylist Sacha Quarles. "Excessive fluff at your shirt neck should be trimmed and tamed." Another detail: your hands. “While the hair cut is
James Franco
Manscaping
The problem with men’s colour is avoiding any red tones. “No guy looks good with warm red tones,” says Diana Schmidtke, men’s celebrity stylist. “Blending is critical” she adds. She recommends Paul Mitchell’s Flash Back, with tones that blend with grays in ten minutes. Grey blending is also KMS California’s Sonna Brado’s preferred technique. “A lot of men come in with young looking faces. A little blending really takes off the years.” One final word from our experts: the more pro-active you are about your hair, the better the result.
Celebrity photos: Getty Images
The right styling product – used the right way – is critical to supporting the line of your haircut. Too little, and your hair may look limp and flat. Too much, and you’re channelling Pauly D’s scrub-brush finish. International beauty companies now offer an arsenal of new grooming formulas made for men. Redken For Men has three designed for different degrees of hold. Going for Gerard Butler’s long, undone layers? Balding recom-mends Redken For Men Loose Ends Liquid Pomade. If you like David Beckham’s easy polish, try Shine Form Defining Wax. If you’re after Robert Pattinson’s short, undone style, Dishevel Fiber Cream will give you the look. The Mitch line offers a range of five formulas from Barber’s Classic High Shine Pomade for classic and Don Draper-esque looks to Hardwired Maximum Hold Spiking Glue for style extremes. Aveda Men’s Grooming Clay Control Paste leaves a very modern-looking matte finish. All our groomers agree: any product you choose shouldn’t flake or feel ‘crunchy’ in your hair.
Justin Bieber
Tool Time
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 33
Modern
Men
John Richmond
Strange but true. Autumn was prevalent in the garments that graced the catwalks. This season’s fashionable incursions. For men only. By Laura Castelli
Rock’ n’ roll attitude for the man of John Richmond in Autumn/Winter 2012/2013. Without abandoning its traditional dark soul, for the next season Richmond is persuaded by a certain Bon Ton mood, by a more delicate allure than usual. Next to the skin and the inevitable motorbike jacket, peeps corduroy, suede and oversized knits. The most elegant English cuts are revisited and present elegance in the accessories like the silk ascot (strictly black, though!). The hounds tooth material is modernised with zips, studs and leather sleeve inserts. A sort of English gentleman soul rocker…
Catwalk photo: IMAXtree.com/Vincenzo Grillo
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C A T W A L K S
photooniPad
De t a il s
ROBERTA BELLAZZI, Aldo Coppola Agency for L’Oréal Professionnel “We worked with John Richmond for the fashion show. The leitmotif of the brand is always dark, a contrast with the clean hair look. In this parade, which starred men rock stars, the hair remained sophisticated. Nothing rockabilly, nothing exaggerated, free and volume controlled. Clean cuts, shortening of sideburns and scaling. It is challenging to work on a man because it is not always easy to propose something new using a few centimeters of hair!”
ting,
in too pr ble tat Inevita the English r also fo an… m gentle
Perfect for Ascot dandy. kers of bi t ne ro the ba d. on Richm
The bac kpack is a must.
Rockstar Bon genre. Warlike intentions but soft hearted. Tailoring, zips, studs and velvet. E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 35
Vivienne Westwood
De t a il s
Ideas for Autumn/Winter 2013, Vivienne Westwood often uses the catwalk as campaigns of social commitment. This time parading men as polar explorers, to emphasise the concern of the designer, in the planets climate change, (the collection is in support of David Attenborough’s documentary on the topic, ‘Frozen Planet’). Eccentric as usual, the Westwood garments are contemporary heroes of tartan contrast. The rise of unexceptionable baronets is ignited from the scratching irony of the British designer. The feet are put into stylish slippers, very, very glam…
e All ar nd Shoes? Socks? , colourful a ed id v o r p g. amusin
a kind of Whether it ’s check rfect, if the Pe ? as m ja pa . ll pu imax is a Scottish
Scottis h leat her an fabric d . For n ew due ls.
Polar explorers with the appeal of neoheroes and the elegance of a baronet. To garnish the Westwood humour.
C A T W A L K S
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ELIA PIATTO @ Franco Curletto United Group for L’Oréal Professionnel “To express the mood of the fashion show,” says Martina Molinari, hair designer at Plate with Elijah. “We were inspired by an image from the Pirelli Calendar Avedon’s 1994 and we researched the material used: a silicone often used on movie sets, but it has a very short processing time and can not be applied on hair because it is irremovable. We placed it on extensions and fixed it to the models hair. Using lots of extreme hold gel, foams to give volume, and then wetting the hair to create the idea of frost. A lot of preparation, but an impactful result!”
Smartphone
ESTETICAFASHION!
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 37
Dirk Bikkembergs
Urban-sporty man of Bikkembergs. Hefty chic macho without ostentation. Selected and clean lines. Coats and parkas of military cut and slim shirts. The tissues are a real must for the collection that easily mixes precious cashmere to leather and fabrics. A rigorous mood and a flashing chromatic: frontline short pants dyed orange and violet. Must-have dall’allure retro shirts, but a clear contemporary style, divided for the new standards. Stitching, inserts out of wool and maxi pockets reveal the honest ‘Nothing to declare’, the beautiful and the possible.
C A T W A L K S
De t a il s
LORENZO BARCELLA Aldo Coppola Agency for L’Oréal Professionnel “The idea of the parade was from present men. A street cross between a military look, something very hard, clean and minimal with a 50s feel. So we chose this style which is characterised by bold lines and well modeled shapes. Nothing free or décoiffé. Lines well defined, carved and polished, for a strong and sleeky look. The goal was to standardise as much as possible with all the models: the work was primarily cleaning the cuts with scissors to give the idea of a ‘Platoon’. “
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The army today. Trained, virile and invincible. The men of Bikkembergs declare war against banality. E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 39
Etro
De t a il s
Dedicated to those who love dreaming. Kean Etro takes us into a fantasy world of mythology where dreams are possible. The desire to give an identity to the new man of the season. The inspiration of the collection was taken from Pegasus, the symbol of the winged horse brand, which is expressed in a triumph of feathers, tails, colours and stoles: an air of freedom, a continuous movement, giving the catwalk an extraordinary 3D effect. Bright colours, velvet maxicoats and the unpredictable leitmotif pattern. Histrionic, fun and light.
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Ligthweight creative. Dandy whimsical, cinematic appeal. Dazzling colours, fairy-tale features. Once upon a time...
C A T W A L K S
FRANCO ARGENTO for L’Oréal Professionnel “The men of Etro choose to fly,” says Franc “and we wanted to translate this lightness into the hair with a voluminous look and the face uncovered. I mixed paste and wax for a customised brilliant result. Then, in agreement with the designer, we left the models to express their individuality and style. We did not want to create clones and wanted to stay in the free spirit which transports into a fantasy world where dreams are possible.”
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 41
Aromas: a range dedicated to the well-being of colour-treated hair. Aromas Shampoo with Argan Oil d-stress . strengthen . protect Nurture hair and scalp in a rich, luxurious lather of natural botanicals designed to restore moisture, revitalise and preserve colour, protecting against fade. Aromas Conditioner with Argan Oil d-stress . strengthen . protect Aromas Conditioner deeply penetrates the hair cuticle with hydrating natural botanicals that reconstruct hair and assist in repairing chemical damage, to revitalise and preserve colour against fade. Aromas Ends Therapy with Argan Oil nourish . replenish . protect A rich leave-in moisturiser designed to nourish from deep within, replenishing lost moisture whilst protecting against daily damage. Aromas Hydra Therapy with Argan Oil hydrate . soften . preserve colour Hydra Therapy Intensive Treatment will replenish lost moisture whilst hydrating hair, improving softness and manageability, boosting vibrancy and preserving colour from fade. Aroma Oil with Argan Oil shine . protect . smooth A leave-in treatment that adds shine and vibrancy while providing thermal and colour protection. Restores dry damaged hair, controlling frizz and improving overall condition and manageability. Aroma Oil Spray with Argan Oil shine . protect . smooth A leave-in shine spray treatment formulated with Argan Oil, providing instant vibrancy and radiance to dull hair. Detangle, improve condition and protect the hair from environmental factors, heat styling and harsh UV rays.
Now available in South Africa and exclusive to selected Salons For stockist enquiries, samples and more information contact us Email: info@keylogo.co.za • Enquiries: +27 (0)11 849 9910
www.nak.net.au www.facebook.com/nakhair
V I S I O N
Creative
Simplicity
Drawing inspiration from full glamour crowns of the 60s bouffant and flat military inspired crowns, the Crown Affair explores the union within the fashion forward arena of chaotic combinations. E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 43
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Hair: Mahogany Academy, London Photographer: Darren Black Make-up: Gemma Atherton Clothes stylist: Andrej Skok
Mahogany Hairdressing
V I S I O N
Colour is blended, block and subtle, shades that are classic and wearable, cuts combine sharp edged structure with texture, curl, and dressing technique. E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 45
V I S I O N
Varying shades of brown combined with fierce coppers, intense reds and platinum blonde creates bold contrasts.
The Crown Affair E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 00
V I S I O N
Futuristic, minimalist, yet playful. Stark white garments with a strong military influence complete the collection. Decorative badges, buttons, medals and chains add colour and flair. E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 47
V I S I O N
Sensual
Liberation
Intercoiffure France starts this year by launching a very modern collection called ‘Mouvance’; a line filled with movement in the hairstyles, hair lengths and colour. 48| E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A
Intense, solid colours, unrestricted volume and textured cuts create gorgeous dimensions in the hair.
Intercoiffure Mondial France
Mouvance Photographer: Jules Egger Hair: Intercoiffure Mondial France Products: Wella Professional
V I S I O N
Bare it all and break free from the chains of constraint. Proud hairstyles that stand on their own. For a breath of freedom in a world that needs creativity. E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 51
MODA
INT’L
Hair Made in
THE YEAR 2012 WILL BE A SPECIAL YEAR FOR THE UNITED KINGDOM. FIRST OF ALL, THERE WILL BE THE OLYMPICS, BUT ALSO THE DIAMOND JUBILEE OF QUEEN ELIZABETH II AND THE INAUGURATION OF THE TALLEST SKYSCRAPER IN EUROPE – THE SHARP. EVEN HAIRSTYLING UNDER THE UNION JACK IS IN CREATIVE UPHEAVAL, AS DEMONSTRATED IN THESE PAGES – ALL DEDICATED TO HAIRDRESSING MADE IN THE UK. Il 2012 sarà un anno speciale per il Regno Unito. Le Olimpiadi in primis, ma anche il Diamond Jubilee della Regina Elisabetta II e l’inaugurazione del grattacielo più alto d’Europa, The Sharp. Anche l’hairstyling della Union Jack è in fermento creativo. Lo dimostrano le pagine di questa modacapelli tutta dedicata alla coiffure made in UK.
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2012 wird für das Vereinigte Königreich ein besonders Jahr: Olympische Spiele, das Diamond Jubilee von Königin Elisabeth II. und die Eröffung von The Sharp, Europas höchstem Wolkenkratzer. Doch auch das Hairstyling des Union Jacks entwickelt sich kreativ weiter, wie unsere nächsten, der UKCoiffure gewidmeten Seiten deutlich zeigen. 2012 sera une année spéciale pour le Royaume-Uni. Pour commencer, les JO, puis le Jubilé de la Reine Élisabeth II et enfin l’inauguration de The Sharp, le plus haut gratte-ciel de toute l’Europe. Même la coiffure signée Union Jack est un creuset de créativité. La preuve ? Les pages de cette mode coiffure entièrement dédiées aux tendances Made in UK. El 2012 será un año especial para el Reino Unido. Las Olimpiadas in primis, pero también el Diamond Jubilee de la Reina Elisabeth II y la inauguración del rascacielos más alto de Europa, The Sharp. Además el hairstyling de la Union Jack está en pleno fermento creativo. Lo demuestran las páginas de este modacabello dedicadas por entero a la coiffure made in UK.
I londinesi lo chiamano “il cetriolo” ed è il simbolo della City, della parte più interna e caotica di Londra. L’anima stessa della città. Metropolitana, viva, effervescente e profondamente cool, Londra non smette di crescere, di stupire, di cambiare. Forever young. Come il mood glamour e contemporaneo che ispira.
Die Londoner nennen ihn “Gurke”; er ist Symbol der City, des innersten und chaotischsten Zentrums der Stadt. Hier sitzt die Seele Londons, einer Stadt, die sich ständig neu erfindet – metropolitisch, lebendig, spritzig und überaus cool. Forever young. So wie ihr zeitgemäßer, inspirierender Glamour-Mood.
Urban style
LONDONERS CALL IT “THE GHERKIN” AND IT IS THE SYMBOL OF THE CITY, OF THE VERY HEART OF THE CHAOS THAT IS LONDON. THE DEEPEST SOUL OF THE CITY. METROPOLITAN, PULSATING, EFFERVESCENT, AND PROFOUNDLY COOL. LONDON NEVER STOPS GROWING, SURPRISING, CHANGING. FOREVER YOUNG. LIKE THE GLAMOUR AND CONTEMPORARY MOOD IT INSPIRES. Les londoniens l’appellent le « concombre », il s’agit du symbole de la City, de la partie la plus interne et chaotique de la ville. Citadin, vivant, effervescent et profondément cool, Londres ne cesse de croître, d’étonner, de muer. Forever young. Comme le style glamour et contemporain qui inspire.
Los londinenses lo llaman “el pepino” y es el símbolo de la City, de la parte más interna y caótica de Londres. El alma misma de la ciudad. Metropolitana, efervescente, vital e intensamente cool, Londres no para de crecer, de sorprender, de cambiar. Forever young. Como el mood glamour y contemporáneo que inspira.
Hair: Fellowship for British Hairdressing F.A.M.E. Team 2011 Photo: Jack Eames Make-up: Maddie Austin Styling: Bernard Connolly E S T E T I C A M O D A | 55
Left Hair: Fellowship for British Hairdressing F.A.M.E. Team 2011 Photo: Jack Eames Make-up: Maddie Austin Styling: Bernard Connolly Right Hair: Tracey Devine @ Angels Photo: Jack Eames Make-up: Lauren Mathis Styling: Bernard Connolly
E S T E T I C A M O D A | 57
Left Hair: Tracey Devine @ Angels Photo: Jack Eames Make-up: Lauren Mathis Styling: Bernard Connolly Right Hair: Kai Wan @ P. Kai hair Photo: Jack Eames Make-up: Maddie Austin and Lauren Mathias Styling: Desiree Lederer
Hair trends are looking up. Quiffs and fringes are the focal point
of looks offering strong impact and urban allure. Whether masculine
or feminine, they have a profoundly versatile soul.
E S T E T I C A M O D A | 59
Left Hair: Kai Wan @ P. Kai Hair Photo: Jack Eames Make-up: Maddie Austin and Lauren Mathias Styling: Desiree Lederer Right Hair: Angelo Seminara for Davines Photo: Andrew O’Toole Make-up: Anita Keeling Styling: Georgie Macintyre Products: Davines
E S T E T I C A M O D A | 61
Typically British geometries. Rounded cut and maxi fringe, almost as if
drafted with a compass. Made in UK has always been synonymous with
clean lines, angled cuts, and strong personality. Metropolitan flair.
Left Hair: Cheynes Hairdressing Photo: Paul Adamczuk Styling: Lorraine and Megan Right Hair: Jill Watkins-Wright @ Watkins-Wright Hairdressing Photo: John Rawson Make-up: James O’Riley Styling: Bernard Connolly
E S T E T I C A M O D A | 63
Left Hair: Richard Ashforth and the Saco Creative Team Photo: David Oldham Make-up: Maxine Leonard Styling: Hasan Hejazi Centre Hair: Russel Crane @ Brooks+Brooks Photo: Yusuke Miyazaki Make-up: Ken Nakano Styling: Nina Walbcq Right Hair: Richard Ashforth and the Saco Creative Team Photo: David Oldham Make-up: Maxine Leonard Styling: Hasan Hejazi E S T E T I C A M O D A | 65
Left Hair: Cheynes Artistic Team Photo: Paul Adamczuk Styling: Lorraine and Megan Centre Hair: Russel Crane @ Brooks+Brooks Photo: Yusuke Miyazaki Make-up: Ken Nakano Styling: Nina Walbcq Right Hair: Cheynes Artistic Team Photo: Paul Adamczuk Styling: Lorraine and Megan
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Mit dem Diamond Jubilee feiert Großbritannien 2012 das 60. Jubiläum der Thronbesteigung von Elisabeth II. Blaublütige Dandy-Anmutungen auch im Hairstyling, mit Wellen, Locken und asymmetrischen Strähnen. Zwischen Spitzen, Perlen und Volants erahnt man Oscar Wilde. Noblesse oblige.
H i g h society
Avec le Jubilé, le Royaume-Uni fête, en 2012, les 60 ans de règne de la Reine Élisabeth II. Les nuances dandy, témoignages d’une certaine classe, envahissent aussi la coiffure. Ondulations, boucles et longues mèches asymétriques. La mode rend hommage à Oscar Wilde et sa poésie par des dentelles, perles et volants. Noblesse oblige.
Con il Diamond Jubilee il Regno Unito festeggia nel 2012 i sessant’anni della salita al trono della Regina Elisabetta II. Sfumature dandy di nobile memoria anche nell’hairstyling. Onde, boccoli e lunghi ciuffi asimmetrici. L’outfit cita Oscar Wilde e la sua metrica, tra pizzi, perle e volant. Noblesse oblige.
WITH THE DIAMOND JUBILEE, THE UNITED KINGDOM CELEBRATES THE SIXTIETH ANNIVERSARY OF QUEEN ELIZABETH II’S RISE TO THE THRONE. DANDY FLAIRS OF NOBLE REMINISCENCE WILL ALSO APPEAR IN HAIRSTYLES. WAVES, RINGLETS, AND LONG ASYMMETRIC LOCKS. THE OUTFIT RECALLS OSCAR WILDE AND HIS METRED RHYMES, AMIDST LACE, PEARLS, AND RUFFLES. NOBLESSE OBLIGE. Con el Diamond Jubilee el Reino Unido celebra en el 2012 los sesenta años de la subida al trono de la Reina Elisabeth II. Matices dandy de noble memoria también en el hairstyling. Ondas, bucles y largos mechones asimétricos. El outfit cita a Óscar Wilde y su métrica, entre encajes, perlas y volant. Noblesse oblige.
Hair: Ben Moth and Valerie Benares @ Brooks+Brooks Photo: Yusuke Miyazaki Make-up: Ken Nakano Styling: Nina Walbecq E S T E T I C A M O D A | 69
Left Hair: Ben Moth and Valerie Benares @ Brooks+Brooks Photo: Yusuke Miyazaki Make-up: Ken Nakano Styling: Nina Walbecq Right Hair: Jamie Stevens @ Errol Douglas Photo: Jens Wilkholm Make-up: Nina Turner Styling: Bernard Connolly Products: Matrix E S T E T I C A M O D A | 71
Left Hair: Andrew Collinge Artistic Team Photo: Ben Cooke Make-up: Liz Collinge Styling: Jiv D Centre Hair: Jamie Stevens @ Errol Douglas Photo: Jens Wilkholm Make-up: Nina Turner Styling: Bernard Connolly Products: Matrix Right Hair: Andrew Collinge Artistic Team Photo: Ben Cooke Make-up: Liz Collinge Styling: Jiv D
E S T E T I C A M O D A | 73
The glance of the prima donna, the allure of an eternal seductress.
Knowing and bewitching women, first class all the way. Hairstyling welcomes experimentation.
The perfection of the cut in one case, stylistic balance in the other.
Left Hair: Kelly Craven-Savatelli @ Toni&Guy Photo: Jack Eames Make-up: Maddie Austin Right Hair: Louise Smith @ Toni&Guy Photo: Jack Eames Make-up: Maddie Austin
E S T E T I C A M O D A | 75
Mit seinen Parks und Panoramen vom London Eye ist London auch Hauptstadt der Träume, des kontemplativen Versinkens. Eine Stadt ohne Grenzen und Vorurteile. Mit derselben Avec ses parcs et ses vues incomparables depuis sa grande Lust, sich abzuheben, die roue, Londres est aussi la capitale du rêve, de l’égarement damals schon das Punkcontemplatif. Sans barrières ni idées préconçues. La même Phänomen einläutete. envie de s’isoler du monde qui fut à l’origine du phénomène Antikonformismus als punk à Londres. L’anticonformisme telle une séparation ästethisches Separée. Starke esthétique de la société. Depuis, la couleur strong habite le Farben sind seither die Seele cœur de la coiffure d’outre-manche. britischen Hairstylings. WITH ITS PARKS AND BREATHTAKING VIEWS FROM THE LONDON EYE, LONDON IS ALSO A CAPITAL OF DREAMS AND CONTEMPLATIVE ABANDON. WITHOUT BARRIERS, WITHOUT PREJUDICES. THE SAME DESIRE TO BREAK AWAY FROM THE WORLD THAT INSPIRED THE PUNK MOVEMENT, RIGHT HERE IN LONDON. NON-CONFORMITY AS AN AESTHETIC STATEMENT AGAINST SOCIETY. STRONG COLOUR HAS BEEN THE SOUL OF BRITISH HAIRSTYLING EVER SINCE.
Dreaming
Con i suoi parchi e le viste mozzafiato dalla London Eye, Londra è anche la capitale del sogno, dello smarrimento contemplativo. Senza barriere, né preconcetti. La stessa voglia di isolarsi dal mondo che fu all’origine del fenomeno punk, proprio qui a Londra. L’anticonformismo come separé estetico dalla società. Il colore strong è da allora nell’animo dell’hairstyling d’oltremanica.
Con sus parques y las vistas impresionantes desde la London Eye, Londres también es la capital del sueño, del extravío contemplativo. Sin barreras, ni preconceptos. Las mismas ganas de aislarse del mundo que estuvo al origen del fenómeno punk, precisamente aquí en Londres. El anticonformismo como separé estético de la sociedad. El color strong está desde entonces en el ánimo del hairstyling más allá del canal.
Hair: Angelo Seminara Photo: Andrew O’Toole Make-up: Laura Dominique Styling: Georgie Macintyre E S T E T I C A M O D A | 77
Yearning to break out of the mould, to play a different role,
to soar above drab and daily routines. An accomplice and author,
a hairstyle a bit baby and a bit futuristic.
Left Rae Palmer for SchwarHair: Hair: Angelo Seminara zkopf Professional Photo: Andrew Andrew O’Toole O’Toole Photo: Make-up: Laura Make-up: DeniseDominique Rabor Styling: Rachael Georgie Macintyre Styling: Bakewell Right Hair: Palmer Hair: Rae Donna Toveyfor@SchwarP.Kai Hair zkopf Professional Photo: Jack Eames Photo: Andrew O’Toole Make-up: Maddie Austin Make-up: Rabor and LaurenDenise Mathias Styling: Bakewell Styling: Rachael Desiree Lederer E S T E T I C A M O D A | 79
Left Hair: Errol Douglas Photo: Andrew O’Toole Make-up: Victoria Baron and Denise Rabor Styling: Vass and Thea Lewis Products: Matrix Right Hair: Ryan Harris @ Angels Photo: Jack Eames Make-up: Maddie Austin Styling: Claire Frith E S T E T I C A M O D A | 81
Left Hair: Errol Douglas Photo: Andrew O’Toole Make-up: Victoria Baron and Denise Rabor Styling: Vass and Thea Lewis Products: Matrix Right Hair: Angelo Seminara Photo: Andrew O’Toole Make-up: Laura Dominique Styling: Georgie Macintyre
Colour reigns and acquires dominance over the cut. White and almost angelic
in one case, fluo and a bit temptress in the other.
Dichotomies with a timeless appeal.
E S T E T I C A M O D A | 83
Left: Hair: Anna Chapman @ Trevor Sorbie Photo: Ben Madgwick Make-up: AJ Styling: Ami Kuwaki Products: Trevor Sorbie Professional Salon X-Clusive Right: Hair: Ryan Harris @ Angels Photo: Jack Eames Make-up: Maddie Austin Styling: Claire Frith
E S T E T I C A M O D A | 85
Seit der Ära des Swinging London diktiert die britische Hauptstadt Moden und Sitten. Wenn Mailand und Paris das Primat der Haute Couture gebührt, so entsteht in London die Streetwear. Auch im Hairstyling. Bobs und geometrische Schnitte wurden hier geboren, bevor sie die Brit Invasion der Coiffure auch zu uns brachte.
Prêt
Es desde los tiempos del Swinging London que la capital británica dicta ley en temas de moda y costumbre. Si Milán y París tienen la primacía del haute couture, es en Londres que nacen la mayor parte de los streetwear. También en lo que concierne al hairstyle. Aquí han visto la luz el bob y el corte geométrico. Desde aquí parte la Britinvasion de la peluquería. SWINGING LONDON HAS BEEN DICTATING FASHION TRENDS FOR DECADES. IF MILAN AND PARIS HAVE DOMINATED HAUTE COUTURE, LONDON HAS GIVEN RISE TO THE HOTTEST STREETWEAR FASHIONS. EVEN WHEN SPEAKING ABOUT HAIRSTYLES. HERE IS WHERE THE BOB AND THE GEOMETRIC CUT WERE BORN. LONDON WAS THE FRONT LINE OF THE BRITISH INVASION OF HAIRDRESSING.
porter
È dai tempi della Swinging London che la capitale britannica detta legge in fatto di moda e costume. Se Milano e Parigi hanno il primato dell’haute couture, è a Londra che nascono la maggior parte degli streetwear. Anche per quanto riguarda l’hairstyle. Qui sono venuti alla luce il bob e il taglio geometrico. Da qui è partita C’est depuis l’époque du Swinging la Brit-invasion della coiffure. London que la capitale britannique dicte ses règles en matière de mode et de coutumes. Si Milan et Paris font rime avec haute-couture, Londres, lui, remporte la palme d’or du prêt-à-porter. Idem pour ce qui est de la coiffure. C’est là qu’est né le fameux bob et la coupe géométrique. Et c’est de là-bas qu’est partie cette vague déferlante very british de la coiffure.
Hair: Angelo Seminara for Davines Photo: Andrew O’Toole Make-up: Anita Keeling Styling: Georgie Macintyre Products: Davines E S T E T I C A M O D A | 87
Left Hair: Ken Picton Photo: Andrew O’Toole Make-up: Lara Champion and Victoria Baron Styling: Shyla Hassan Right: Artistic Direction: Mark Hayes Hair: The Sassoon Creative Team Photo: Colin Roy Make-up: Daniel Koleric Styling: Tabitha Owen Products: Sassoon Professional
E S T E T I C A M O D A | 89
Left: Hair: Jess Gaylard and Teresa Heaney @ Jamie Stevens Photo: Jens Wilkholm Make-up: Charlie Duffy Products: Matrix Right: Hair: Nick Malenko and Ashley James Gamble for Royston Blythe Photo: Richard Miles E S T E T I C A M O D A | 91
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Hairstyles with overwhelming appeal for their innate naturalness and
a sprinkling of chic for that little something extra. Super-wearable, these are an open declaration of seduction: even short hair can be sexy.
Left: Hair: Ken Picton Photo: Andrew O’Toole Make-up: Lara Champion and Victoria Baron Styling: Shyla Hassan Right: Artistic Direction: Mark Hayes Hair: The Sassoon Creative Team Photo: Colin Roy Make-up: Daniel Koleric Styling: Tabitha Owen Products: Sassoon Professional
E S T E T I C A M O D A | 93
Hair: Jess Gaylard and Teresa Heaney @ Jamie Stevens Photo: Jens Wilkholm Make-up: Charlie Duffy Products: Matrix
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WIN with ESTETICA! We want to hear from you! Write to us and tell us about your mens hair style makeover. Whether you’re a stylist, who created a new look for your client, or a trend setting client wanting to show off your new hairstyle, we want to see the transformation. The winning entry will win a Schwarzkopf Professional [3D]Mension gift pack containing a Hair and Body Shampoo and Strong Hold Gel. The winning inspiration and images will also appear in the next edition of ESTETICA.
How to enter:
Send us a BEFORE and AFTER picture of the hairstyle. Tell us about the inspiration and reasons for creating the look.
Email entries to cindy.horton@topco.co.za Entries close on 31 August 2012
ESTETICA reveals the latest in men’s grooming techniques, styling tips and fashion trends. ESTETICA chats to local and international stylists and find out how they are influencing the industry.
MESTETICA en PURPOSEFULLY SHAGGY, STRATEGICALLY STRUCTURED OR CLEAN CUT. LOOKS ARE THOUGHT OUT, PLANNED AND IMPLEMENTED. MEN WANT TO CREATE AND WEAR THEIR INDIVIDUAL STYLE.
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 97
The TIGI
Heritage Anthony Mascolo with... Nick Irwin Global Creative Director Akos Bod European Creative Director Marco Iafrate Italian Creative Director
TIGI – one great internaional team, all pulling together. The result? A very powerful force in hairdressing. by Gary Kelly
P
erhaps it sounds obvious, but this founding principle is what makes TIGI standout from the crowd. A simple thought that remains as powerful as ever today, it means that Anthony Mascolo and his Team absolutely understand what hairdressers want and need. Anthony Mascolo & the International Creative Team constantly update the work they do, redefining standards of excellence in hairdressing creativity and technical skill, driving hairdressing into an art form. At TIGI, it is instilled in every member of the Team to champion the voice of hairdressers, showcasing the craft, i.e. the creative intelligence behind hairdressing.
Our Philosophy
Creative Intelligence – It’s about progression. Keeping the art of hairdressing fresh. Dynamic. Alive. Balancing expression and invention with the skills and precise technical understanding that sets creativity free. It’s about gaining recognition for the craft, artistry and dedication that we put into hairdressing, celebrating the journey, not just the destination – whether you’re just starting out in hairdressing or you are a household name. Creative Intelligence has led us to develop specialist products – tools that encourage creativity: brands that hairdressers and consumers love. Creative intelligence is the key to progressing the art and craft of hairdressing, keeping it fresh and alive and shaping the stars of the future today. Creative Intelligence drives everything. Anthony Mascolo formed the TIGI Creative Team nine years ago, calling on the support of Nick Irwin to help him build a strong team that could communicate the TIGI message worldwide, based on his own belief in ongoing training, pushing creativity and sharing knowledge, and experience.
I N T E R V I E W
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the guys very well and both Heath Grout and Richy Kandasamy have worked with us in London for several years, and of course now that Marco Iafrate is heading up the Team in Italy, we have an even closer connection there. NICK IRWIN is now Global Creative Director and works on a wide range of areas from new TIGI collections, new product innovations, heading shows at London and New York fashion week, working with key TIGI salons, leading the TIGI Inspirational Youth programme and sharing his own ideas with regular Up, Close and Personal sessions across the globe. Anthony: How do you feel your work has progressed over the last nine years?
When I started working with you I’d been a session hairdresser for the previous two years, so it was a totally new thing to be in one place and focused on one job, but I was ready for it and I think I’ve grown a lot – thanks to the opportunities I’ve been given from you – and some hard work on my part. Anthony: What part of your job gives you the most satisfaction?
Creativity! Shows, shoots working on Up, Close and Personal days… and also coming up with ideas. I feel very privileged to have had the opportunity to work with you over the years and be part of your incredible creative development. Anthony: What is the hardest part of your job?
Nick: Time! It’s never on my side. Fitting in meetings, travel, shows and shoots, with a family life, is often very difficult and a challenge. In a few weeks I have to fly to NY for a hair test, fly back to London overnight to attend a TIGI conference the next day and straight afterwards fly back to New York for a fashion show. That’s an extreme example, but my life is increasingly falling into this crazy pattern.
Anthony: Anything you’d like to ask me?
Nick: We talk a lot, so I know where you’re at most of the time, but I often wonder how you keep your love for hair going so strongly? Anthony: Well I can answer that easily. Firstly, I’ve always seen it as an art form that I can constantly progress; secondly, it’s allowed me to diversify into other areas, such as photography and making films; thirdly it’s enabled me to travel all over the world; and lastly it’s given me the opportunity to work with some incredible people and make some amazing friends. Nick: I’m with you there! Nick Irwin Global Creative Director As leader of the TIGI International Creative Team, Nick Irwin is responsible for many creative aspects, from trend predictions to product development as well as heading up fashion shows and working on all global TIGI shows. Working closely with Anthony Mascolo, Nick helps develop new collections and imagery for brand marketing. His influences are seen in regular ‘Up, Close & Personal’ days where he shares the latest cuts, styling ideas, catwalk looks and couture hair ideas. Communication and inspiration are at the heart of his work.
Anthony: How do you keep in touch with the TIGI Creative Team worldwide?
Nick: We meet up surprisingly often for shows and shoots and we email, speak and Skype. I’ve become adept at conference calls over the last couple of years, but for sure, communication is vitally important and not always easy when someone is on the other side of the world and there are time differences. We’re growing all the time too, so now I’m working with a fast expanding global network. With the USA it’s easy as we know all E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 99
AKOS BODI left his native Hungary to follow his dreams and moved to Dallas Texas, USA where he ended up working in salons and the TIGI Academy. During the eight years he worked in the USA, he helped write and develop all the key training programmes for the academy and it was his passion for education and training that resulted in Anthony inviting him to return to Europe to build the Team at the TIGI Academy in London. Now European Creative Director, Akos works closely with Anthony and Nick on all the global TIGI shows and on the development of creative ideas for new collections. He also creates training programmes, working with the US, Italian, French and German education directors as well as being the main liaison with TIGI education teams across the world.
Akos Bodi European Creative Director Akos Bodi is known for his calm, focused approach, best seen backstage during shows, when his calming influence shines through. Bodi has worked for TIGI for 15 years, five years as European Educational Director and before as a salon and education director in Dallas. He describes his role as: ‘Translating TIGI’s creative ideas for the ‘everyday’ hairdresser. He embraces constant new challenges and believes in staying ahead of the game with an ability to break rules with the utmost confidence.
Anthony: What is it that inspires you about education?
Akos: As you’ve always said, “You’ve got to learn the rules to break the rules”. I like this philosophy. I believe in encouraging hairdressers to really get the craft strong so they can artistically progress. Anthony: How would you describe yourself?
Heritage is what gives a brand pedigree and recognition, but it’s people that inspire and drive it forward to new heights.
Akos: I like detail. In education, it’s about getting the right content for each course and communicating this information to all the teachers across the world, ensuring they understand and can teach the format. When it comes to shows, I love the detail of creating wigs and hair pieces. I have patience and nothing really fazes me, so on the day of the show, when everyone is getting stressed, I just get on with it, calmly and quietly. Anthony: What do you think makes a good team?
Akos: Good leadership. You’re an icon and so we all look up to you and expect you to motivate us, but it’s also about sharing. We’re all individuals in the TIGI Creative Team with different styles of hairdressing and communication but together we can pull together and as a result be very powerful. Anthony: What’s your goal this year.
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Akos: Last year, putting together TIGI Classics was my main priority. This year too, educationally we have a lot happening. We’ve got a new team in Russia and a growing education team in the Far East. I want to work with them to ensure they are 100 percent confident and 100 percent informed. Communication, will keep them inspired. We’re doing our first photo shoot with a group of Russian hairdressers this week. The aspect of really thinking and working globally is a challenge, but it’s exciting.
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MARCO IAFRATE was mentored by Anthony for several years when he moved from Italy to London. Soon after Anthony set up the TIGI Creative Team Marco joined him as Academy Director. In the ensuing years, Marco both taught in the London Academy and worked on educational seminars in the UK and throughout Europe, as well as working on key shows. As Anthony says: “Marco is one of the most amazing hair cutters I have ever come across. His haircuts are perfectly executed and he has a real feeling for making a person look fantastic”. With the launch of the Catwalk by TIGI brand, links were formed with fashion designers and, over the last three years, Marco has worked extensively on the main fashion weeks with designers such as Christopher Kane, Versus, Missoni, Gianfranco Ferre, Costume National, Pringle and Pam Hogg. In 2011, with a major reorganisation of TIGI Italy and a move from Salerno to Rome, Marco was invited to return to Italy to take up the role of Education Manager and Creative Director. Anthony: What was it that drew you back to Italy?
Marco: It’s the challenge. It’s been a long time since I’ve Iived here and I have a lot of friends in London and worked with a great team, so it was a big decision! Having said that, it’s very exciting and gives me huge opportunities to build my own team as well as working closely with TIGI salons and TIGI hairdressers across Italy. Anthony: What are your objectives?
Marco: Firstly, I’ve got to ensure that I’ve got the right people working with me. I want to be very sure they have the passion for TIGI that we have and that they also share our philosophy of working with hairdressers to help them progress – both artistically and in business terms. I believe very strongly in the Team. I also want to help build TIGI in Italy. I’m lucky that we have already made good connections in fashion terms, so I will have the opportunity to push working backstage at fashion shows and also drive editorial work. So my objective is to have an all-round approach to cover every aspect of education and creative exposure.
have you to inspire and work with us, and Nick to offer regular links with the other team members across the world. I always consider myself Global! Our heritage is that TIGI is: ‘by hairdressers for hairdressers’ and this is something that I firmly believe we have to always commit to. Anthony: So what’s your immediate strategy?
Marco: I want to build a really strong team that is committed, creative and ambitious. I want to set up a programme of education that demonstrates hair excellence and takes our philosophy of creative intelligence to a wide audience. I want to ensure the image that we project is powerful and I want to ensure that our communication with you, Nick and Akos remains very close. I also want to build a network that means TIGI is known by hairdressers and the public, right across the length and breadth of the country. It’s about people, education and products, sharing our vision with like-minded people. Marco Iafrate Italian Creative Director /European Session Director Marco has recently moved from London to Italy as European Creative Director aiming to build a strong Italian Creative Team. He will continue to work with Nick and Maria on fashion shows and will participate in major TIGI shoots and global shows. Known for his precision cutting, he is equally happy doing refined and delicate hair for shows. Marco is inspired by the different opportunities hairdressing brings, as well as continuing his creative drive.
Anthony: Global or Italian – how does it work?
Marco: Both. Italy is my number one priority as you know, but I am part of a global team and I think it is always important to keep that at the forefront of everything we develop in Italy. Our strength is that we E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 101
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he right man at the right time with the right partner, L’Oréal Professionel Products. I met Rossano Ferretti in Parma, where the whole story started, and over lunch he explained to me his idea of luxury in the hairdressing world – an exclusive place at the top of the industry pyramid, which Ferretti today leads at a global level with his ‘lifestyle concept’ model. How does Rossano Ferretti manage this hugely dynamic phase with salon openings in the world’s main capitals? videooniPad
I have dedicated my life to this project over the last 10 years and invested a lot of money in the team when no one else would. We are the only worldwide group that looks for talent all over the world, taking our protégés to Parma (all expenses paid) to train them to the excellence standards of the Rossano Ferretti Method. This is a decidedly innovative formula
Universe
Ferretti
Exclusive interview with Rossano Ferretti. The hairstylist who is working with L’Oréal to globalise luxury hairdressing with a lifestyle concept that makes a difference. by Sergi Bancells
and very expensive, which has guaranteed us being able to offer our trademark exclusive service anywhere in the world. At the same time, L’Oréal was searching for someone with my concept and philosophy... we were both in the right place at the right time. We started with a few salons in Europe, became hugely success ful in Paris, and then we moved on to New York and Los Angeles. Soon we’re opening in New Delhi, London, Shanghai... How would you describe your direction up to now?
I’d say we offer an incredible job that with time becomes a way of being, your form of communication, your personal choice of market positioning, your exclusivity. This leads you to meet the right partners and the right people when you need them, both as hairdressers and clients. Our hairdressers feel as if they belong to an exclusive club, open only to a team of professionals who live their job with immense passion and open hearts. This is the secret of our success. We instil the ‘beauty instinct’ concept to our team members – it’s the idea of harmony and total beauty, for every woman and every man.
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What’s your contribution today to the contemporary hairdressing world?
“My dream is to see hairdressers become proud of what they are – members of an exclusive club.”
How did your story with L’Oréal begin?
Our partnership started off in Spain and Italy. Gradually, thanks to my willingness to work exclusively with them, my standards in the luxury world, my way of thinking and my work methods, the partnership developed into a worldwide collaboration. The big step came with the opening of the Paris salon – conquering this great capital wasn’t easy, but a year later I can say that the figures are wonderful, the women’s press love us, and the French admire us. If you can make it in a city like Paris or New York, you can make it anywhere. In fact, now we’re working together on other salons elsewhere. Is the famous Rossano Ferretti Method the basis of all this?
Yes, it’s our philosophy in life, the client’s journey in the salon, the technique of cutting with the natural fall (that makes women more beautiful), attracting the attention of even Vidal Sassoon... It’s a well-studied method, successfully developed over the years! Our greatest innovation has been the ‘lifestyle concept’ – we don’t sell haircuts, we offer an expe rience. I’ve always focused on the total service, the complete concept – not cut, colour or styling as individual services. I create hairstyles as a ‘real experience’ and this is what sets us apart from mainstream hairdressers. I hope that this is really the key to helping the new generation of hairdressers understand that cutting is magnificent, colouring is fantastic, but if you don’t create a ‘lifestyle’ for your customers, we can’t expect to keep them and their client loyalty. This is how Rossano Ferretti has become a true ‘destination’ for clients all over the world.
All the famous hairdressers, when they started to become successful, started to open franchises as if they were simple shops. Nobody specialised in creating high quality salons on a worldwide scale – there was nobody doing this before and it’s the same today. We are a true case study – alongside L’Oréal we are launching a huge challenge, for the first time ever. I see this as a personal mission, an example for new generations. Like the great chefs, architects or artists, I want to be a role model for young stylists, teaching them to love and value this wonderful industry that we work in. What’s your dream for the future?
I’d like to see hairdressers become proud of what they represent. I’d like to see hairdressing change its image, both on a cultural level and as a personal challenge. I’d like to see hairdressing salons become personalised services in boutique hotels or major restaurants, a form of ‘experience’. I’ve worked hard for years and I’d like my experience to help all those who want to start a career in this wonderful industry. My reward today is seeing that wherever we have opened, we have become a part of ‘social life’.
Watch the video on your mobile With the QR-code you can see the video of Rossano Ferretti.
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Seven tips for the best shave ever: 1. SOAK
It’s always a good idea to shower before you shave. Wash your face and neck with warm water and a gentle cleanser to help remove dirt, natural oils and perspiration that inhibit water penetration. This will also open your pores and soften your beard as warm water causes hair to expand, making it softer and easier to cut. Dry your face by dabbing it with a warm towel. The risk of a cut is present whenever you’re sweeping incredibly sharp blades across your face; a clean face thus also reduces the chance of infection should you nick yourself.
Shave
Alert Looking your best takes preparation, planning, and the right equipment. Fortunately, ESTETICA can help you with all three. The experts at Gillette share their top seven steps to getting the perfect shave.
2. PREPARE
Apply plenty of shave gel. Although water is essential for softening, the water absorbed by hair quickly evaporates, leaving hair in its original state. Shave gel provides a protective layer that prevents the evaporation of water and keeps hair soft. Beard hairs can grow in a number of directions so it’s best to apply your shave gel in a circular motion. This not only ensures that you don’t miss any areas but it also encourages the beard to stick up from the skin, which will help achieve a closer shave. 3. RELAX
Use light, gentle and slow strokes. Your razor should do the work, not you. Feel the direction of the beard growth with your fingers and then shave in the same direction as the hair growth. Gently pull the skin tighter as you shave across the face and neck to get rid of any folds or wrinkles. This will give you a closer; more even shave and reduce the chance of nicking. 4. SAVE THE BEST FOR LAST
The toughest hairs grow on the chin and around the
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lips. Shave these areas last, as more time soaking in shave gel will soften them further. 5. TRIM
Use a Precision Trimmer Blade on the back of the razor. Use it after shaving the large areas of your face to trim sideburns, under the nose, and to shape facial hair. It will provide clean lines and a tidy finish to your shave. 6. RINSE AND PROTECT
After shaving, rinse your face and neck with cool water and pat dry. In addition, use a balm formula that is non-greasy and easily absorbed, to leave your skin feeling smooth and comfortable. Dermatologically tested, lightly fragranced and alcohol free balms are always best for your skin. A balm should calm and moisturise your face after shaving. At the end of every shave, rinse the razor thoroughly and shake off excess water before storing. Do not wipe the blades, as this can damage the fine shaving edge. 7. CHANGING THE BLADES
Dull blades can lead to nicks and irritation. Change your blade when you experience tugging or discomfort. Fresh blades provide a smoother, more comfortable shave and help prevent cuts and irritation.
Ingrown hairs
Most common for people with curly hair, razor bumps/ ingrown hairs occur when hair strands grow back into the surface of the skin, causing redness, inflammation or bumps that often resemble pimples. So what is the best way to manage the issue?
Here we debunk a popular misconception about razor bumps/ingrown hairs and give you the information you need to help prevent them the right way. Misconception about razor bumps/ingrown hairs :
Shaving less often is a good way to prevent razor bumps/ingrown hairs. The truth about preventing razor bumps/ingrown hairs:
Shaving often significantly reduces the occurrence of razor bumps/ingrown hairs by keeping your whiskers E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 107
Goldwell
The skin’s natural moisture barrier can be damaged during the shaving process.
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short so they do not have the chance to grow back into the skin surface. Shaving daily has been proven to help reduce razor bumps and skin irritation.
Here’s how to get smooth, healthy looking skin: STEP 1 PRE-SHAVE
Preparation is critical for a close and comfortable shave, so clean away dirt and excess oils with a mild cleanser instead of soap, to hydrate and clean skin while softening the hair so that it is easier to cut. STEP 2 THE SHAVE
Use a razor that features closely spaced blades that distribute the shaving force as this reduces pressure and irritation. You should also use a high quality lubricant to protect against nicks, redness and tightness. STEP 3 AFTER-THE-SHAVE
The skin’s natural moisture barrier can be damaged during the shaving process, so try using an after-shave balm to rehydrate skin, restore its natural moisture barrier, calm freshly shaven skin and leave it feeling smooth and looking great. After all when you look good you feel good!
Winter care
Cold temperatures and frigid air tend to dry out the skin. Keep your face protected during the winter months with these tips:
Softsheen Carson Magic Bump Rescue Daily cream treatment. Ren Multi-tasking After Shave Balm. Gillette PRO 3in1 Hydration Moisturiser
• •
Use a moisturising shave gel before shaving. Prevent dry, flaky skin after shaving by applying an after shave that contains aloe as its rich hydrating emollients help comfort the skin after shaving.
Shaving daily has been proven to help reduce razor bumps and skin irritations.
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International
Flair
International hairstylists, Robert Cromeans and Angus Mitchell, inspired South African audiences with a show of colour, fun and creativity.
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wincare has been hosting international seminars for over 30 years and this year was no different. On 27 May, at The Theatre on the Track in Johannesburg, close to 400 South African salon owners and stylists were treated to the legendary world renowned stylist Robert Cromeans; Paul Mitchell’s Global Artistic Director. He first came to South Africa in 2001 and again in 2007. Both events received an overwhelming response and this year was no exception. Hairdresser, salon owner, platform artist and industry legend, Robert Cromeans’ charming wit, innovative artistry and proven business strategies inspire hairdressers
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around the globe. As the owner of the mega-successful ‘A Robert Cromeans Salon’ and ARCS Salon with locations in California, Nevada and Oklahoma, Robert shares tried-and-true techniques that are backed by the Robert Cromeans name. Voted by the industry a record seven times as behindthechair.com’s Stylist Choice Awards Platform Artist of the Year, this Glasgow, Scotland native constantly travels with his salon team to motivate and educate. Robert’s show team included the energetic and exuberant Angus Mitchell who is Co-owner of John Paul Mitchell Systems, international educator and well renowned platform artist. Angus Mitchell was born into the legacy of late legendary hairstylist Paul Mitchell. As the son of the hair fashion icon,
Angus’ unique upbringing in the hair industry exposed him to the same passion that inspired his father, thus leading him to eventually fulfil his destiny in the family of hair. Educated at Vidal Sassoon, Angus has been able to combine their legendary precision technique with the free creative expression Paul Mitchell encourages to craft his own signature style. He makes his home in Los Angeles where he has forged his own professional identity with his Angus M creative studio and Beverly Hills salon. The seminar showcased the latest, cutting, colour, styling, product and motivation techniques, which promises to bring passion into the salons and the Paul Mitchell energy into the hearts of the stylists. The explosive team, which also included Robert’s assistant Mary Cuomo, Angus’ assistant Heather Kaanoi, make-up artist Brittany Troche and Stephen Wortham on technical, started the seminar with
a segment on colour, with live application demonstrations, followed by inspirational cutting. Next was the styling segment, starting with men’s grooming using Mitch products followed by Awapuhi Wild Ginger products for longer hair. For the finale, Angus preformed an inspirational hair cut and theatrical piece to the theme of Tron. Robert then took to the stage and presented his work which was inspired by Disney and featured Pinocchio, whose hair was cut from helium balloons and next was Pirates of the Carribean, where the pirates hair was cut around his hat using clippers.
Twincare has been hosting international seminars for over 30 years.
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Finally the show ended with Mickey Mouse bouncing onto stage and much to the delight of the crowd had her hair cut into round ears. ESTETICA had the unique opportunity to interview Robert and Angus, and created a platform for them to contribute towards our men’s feature. This is what they had to say on the international men’s trends and salon advice… What are the current trends in men’s hairstyling? Angus: Men want versatility in their hairstyle, think Dr Jekylll and Mr Hyde. They want to be neat and sophisticated at work and be able to rough it up for after work drinks, hairstyles that allow the client to change their style to suit the occasion. Robert: With the popularity of reality TV show, Jersey Shore, the younger clientele are requesting more structured spiked hair styles. While the mature client, that might
be suffering from thinning hair, is more interested in full matte looks and steers clear of glossy products, as this makes the hair appear even thinner. In your experience, what do men want from their styling products? Angus: Men tend to dislike fluffy hair, therefore they want products that add a matte texture to the hair while combating frizz. A big must is flake free gels which allow men to change their hairstyle throughout the day without creating unsightly flakes. How do you create an experience for men in your salon and what services do you offer them? Robert: Most men have their hair cut on a Saturday because they don’t want to go back to work with cut hair on their clothing and feeling itchy for the rest of the day. Therefore we shampoo all
our male clients after their hair has been cut and create a relaxing experience for them at the wash basin with hot towels. Small things like men’s magazines and capes that fit them all add to the experience as well. How do you promote your services and retail products to your male clients? Robert: Men want the facts, are result-driven and recognise expertise. Therefore, when speaking to male clients, different words need to be used in order to appeal to them. In my salon we call this ‘guy-alogue’. Instead of calling our products ‘retail’ we refer to them as ‘take home’ products to care for your ‘investment’ (colour). We use words such as new and improved, Ferrari red, ask open-ended forward-thinking questions and refer to highlights as ‘guylights’.
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PANDORA celebrates their 30th Anniversary
PANDORA was founded in 1982 by Danish goldsmith, Per Enevoldsen and his then wife, Winnie, in a small basement shop on the outskirts of Copenhagen, Denmark. The couple had the unique vision of making beautifully crafted, distinctively feminine interchangeable jewellery at affordable prices – this vision has guided PANDORA ever since. The PANDORA universe was born as an idea of making quality jewellery accessible to all women, by combining modern, classic and feminine designs. In 2000, PANDORA had its global breakthrough with the launch of its signature charm bracelet. Three decades on, PANDORA’s design team carefully continue to imbue the brand’s founding vision into each and every piece they create, tapping into the mindset of modern women and the different ways in which they wish to express themselves through quality jewellery crafted from solid sterling silver and solid gold.
Brad Pitt – new face of Chanel N°5 Prestigious fashion and cosmetic house Chanel has selected world renowned actor Brad Pitt to be the face of their upcoming advertising campaign for Chanel N°5. Chanel gave no details, but the deal is thought to mark the first time that the iconic perfume for women will be marketed by a man. Pitt, 48, the star of movies such as Interview with the Vampire and Fight Club, joins the likes of Nicole Kidman and Catherine Deneuve who have represented the fragrance.
Parlux: undisputed protagonist at Hair Brasil
An extraordinary Parlux initiative was featured at the 11th edition of Hair Brasil, a trade fair devoted to the hair and beauty world, held at the Expo Norte Center in Sao Paolo from the 24–27 March. Faithful to their new eco-friendly philosophy, the famous Italian producer and their local distributor, Messers CEMEL Ltda., in cooperation with the organisers of Hair Brasil, promoted ‘To your advantage and for benefit of the environment’. Several weeks before the event, an invitation to visit the Parlux stand at Hair Brasil, with an old hairdryer to be destroyed and replaced by a new Parlux one, was sent to potential visitors and professionals via the internet, email and through a huge advertising campaign with specialised hair magazines. This attracted a large amount of visitors delivering old hairdryers to be destroyed and in return a discount voucher and certificate was received, certifying that the item had been destroyed. This initiative, aiming to renew the hairdryers range and replace it with modern, ecofriendly ones, such as the Parlux 3800 Eco-Friendly model, was very successful especially among stylists who are more sensitive to ecological and environment protection topics. Another initiative offered at the Parlux booth, was a free cleaning service for hairdryers as well as a brush changing service at special rates.
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Miraclebody Jeans
Hot on the heels from launching in the USA the 2012/2013 summer range of shape control apparel from Miraclebody will be available in South Africa. It is the fabulous range of clothing now complementing the Miraclesuit control swimwear, both internationally and now locally. Miraclesuit provides all women of all shapes and sizes with premium denim wear, in sizes 32-44. At the heart of the Miraclebody brand, is premium Lycra denim which slims the thighs and lifts the rear while giving a comfortable fit. The denim jeans are available in several washes, from faded blue for a casual look to sleek black for a dressier look and are available at stockists nationwide.
The launch of Vogue Eyewear for Men
Vogue Eyewear, the leading Italian eyewear brand of quality products with an appealing design and glamorous look, launches Vogue Eyewear for Men. The new collection, offering both sun and optical styles dedicated to men, selects style icon and British actor Jude Law as the ambassador. In line with Vogue Eyewear’s global profile and reputation, Jude Law is a perfect fit for the men’s collection. As a symbol of men’s contemporary style, the partnership was organic between the actor and the brand. Jude Law states, “I was flattered to be asked to be the face of this first campaign for Vogue Eyewear for Men and accepted without hesitation. I love the collection.” The glamorous campaign was captured by legendary photographer and ‘poet of glamour’, Peter Lindbergh. The creative was photographed in late January in Master Shipwrights House at Watergate Street in London. “This was a spontaneous and enjoyable project,” said Lindbergh. “Jude and I have worked together before and we are comfortable with each other. He is definitely a talent, I totally respect and esteem him. Because of what was required for the Vogue Eyewear for Men’s campaign, we could be quite playful and the results support the product impeccably. The perfect image should work on two levels – it has to be artistically expressive but it also has a job to do; I think these photographs with Jude succeed on both levels.” The inspirational concept says it all: Fashionable eyewear for the contemporary man. Modern but classic, straightforward but aware of himself and the world around him – this is the man who wears Vogue Eyewear for Men.
Texture Transformation
Wella Professionals has launched a unique new offering at their salons – Texture Transformation services. The new Texture Transformation services from Wella Professionals are not only about imparting shape into the hair, addressing the desire to alter your look, but also making it more manageable and easier to style. Wella Professionals Texture Transformation services known as Silky Sleekness, Alluring Waves and Bouncy Curls, can be tailor-made. However, wavey or straight, you simply need to discuss the effect you want and your hairdresser can advise how best to achieve the look. Specific areas of the hair can be targeted for different effects, for example more movement at the crown, straight lengths and wavy ends or even just a sleeker fringe. The result is not only about whether the hair is curly, wavy or straight, but how the actual hair fibre is transformed into something more manageable and easy-to-style and leaving it in optimum condition.
Maybelline signs Charlotte Free as the new face of Maybelline New York
Mango drops their prices
From July Mango will be dropping its prices by 20 percent. “Mango is committed to a 20 percent price reduction this season to adapt to the new global economic situation, in a major effort to achieve better quality, lower prices and offer on-trend products to its customers. The new pricing strategy will come into effect with the launch of the Spring/Summer 2012 Collection in South African stores in July 2012.” says Mango.
Maybelline New York announced that rising runway star Charlotte Free, was signed to the brand, joining a distinguished roster of A-list spokeswomen that includes Christy Turlington, Julia Stegner, Erin Wasson, Kemp Muhl, Shu-Pei Qin and Emily DiDonato. Charlotte, known for her vivid dyed pink locks, delicate features and cool, edgy, daring look, is the latest revelation to hit the fashion world. Her one-of-a-kind beauty and strong, independent personality perfectly reflect Maybelline New York’s brand philosophy. “Charlotte is the new generation of beauty. Her great energy and her unconventional style make her unique. Spontaneous, confident and daring, Charlotte is the perfect representative of the Maybelline New York woman,” says Damien Bertrand, Global Brand President, Maybelline New York. Charlotte says, “I am so excited to be the new face of Maybelline New York. It’s an honour to represent this truly iconic brand and a dream come true for me.” Charlotte will make her debut for Maybelline New York in the TV campaign for the new lipsticks -- Color Sensational The Popsticks -- this summer.
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preview MONTHbyMONTH
Biosense Milano Collection Port Elizabeth 9 July
Venezia Collection Johannesburg 20 August, Durban 8 October
Biofactor Competition Round 2 Johannesburg 16 July
Biofactor Competition Finals Johannesburg 10 September
Ace Quest Finals Johannesburg 16 September
Schwarzkopf Professional Inspirational Form Midrand and Cape Town 2 July
Challenging Blondes Durban 16 July, Midrand 17 July
Essential Cutting Skills Cape Town 16 July
All About Men Midrand and Cape Town 23 July
Colour Confidence Part 1 Durban 2 July, Cape Town 30 July
Joico Fundamental Color Cape Town 9 July, 6 August and 1 October
Executive Color Correction Cape Town 16 July, 3 September and 15 October Johannesburg 13 August
Fundamental Color Johannesburg 23 July
Master the Grey, Bombshell Blondes and Rocking Reds Cape Town 30 July and 10 September
preview MONTHbyMONTH
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Trend
Communication Strategies
Cape Town 8 October
Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 27 August
Nioxin Engage & Experience
Haircolor Principles and New Chromatics Ammonia-free Permanent Color
Johannesburg 3 September, Durban 4 September, Cape Town 17 September,
Bloemfontein, East London and Port Elizabeth 3 September, Johannesburg, Durban
Pretoria 1 October
and Cape Town 10 September
Enable
Lightening Collection
Johannesburg 4 September, Cape Town 18 September,
Bloemfontein, East London and Port Elizabeth 4 September, Johannesburg, Durban
Durban 25 September, Pretoria 2 October
and Cape Town 11 September
Cutting & Styling
Color Correction
Johannesburg 2 July, Pretoria 9 July, Cape Town, Durban and
Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 17 September
East London 16 July, Port Elizabeth 18 July
Paul Mitchell Mitch Men’s Cut
Intra Force Collection Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 18 September, Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 9 October
Johannesburg 16 July
Redken For Men Collection Inspirational Hands-on Cutting Workshop
Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 8 October
Johannesburg 6 August, 10 September and 15 October
Shades EQ Collection Wash House Etiquette (Operators)
Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 8 October
Johannesburg 9 July
Redken
Styling Collection Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 9 October
Chromatics Color Generation Collection Johannesburg and Durban 9 July and 7 August, Bloemfontein, East London and Port Elizabeth 17 July, Cape Town 9 July and 20 August
Principle Based Design Bloemfontein, East London and Port Elizabeth 16 July, Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 6 August
Redken Specialist Bloemfontein, East London and Port Elizabeth 15, 16 and 17 October
Tigi Latest looks from hottest current TIGI Collections including Candy Fixations and Game On Durban 17 July, Port Elizabeth 23 July, Cape Town 30 July
Redken Specialist Exam Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 23 July
Tigi 2 x Day Colour Workshops Johannesburg 8 and 9 October, Cape Town 15 and 16 October
Hair Collection Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 8 August
Styling Collection Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 8 August
Principles of Consultation Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 27 August
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 117
A calendar July with exciting 1Essential Looks World Tour industry events 16-17 The Gathering Paul Mitchell taking place all over the 22 Naha world. Why not join us? 22-24 Cosmoprof North America Barcelona (Spain) www.schwarzkopf-professional.com
Las Vegas (USA) www.paulmitchellpro.com
Las Vegas (USA) www.probeauty.org/naha/
Las Vegas (USA) www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com
REPORT
12 March HairIST
Istanbul - www.hair-ist.net The most important event in profes sional Turkish hairdressing. HairIST Istanbul 2012 was held on March 12th in the capital of Turkey with a strong participation of sector operators Organised by ESTETICA Turkey editor Erkan Güzel, it was supported by the leading professional brand names in the country, offering the best of Turkish hairdressing at the MKM Gösteri Salonu. One of the highlights was the technical show by Mehmet Tatli Akademi, the avant garde proposal by Hakan Akbalik, and inspiration from the traditional Turkish dance known as the Cem Ardiç. There was also enthusiastic applause for the exhibi tion by the three popular hairdressers of the 3Salon 3Kadin 3Tasarimci group (Gülizar Boyaci, Ilda Dogancioglu y Zeynep Azeritürk Özdem) and for the marvelous show by the famous
REPORT
24-27 March Hair Brasil
São Paulo - www.hairbrasil.com
Fashion shows featured colour, haircuts, beauty and hairdressing superstars.
Hair Brasil 2012 was brimming with colours, haircuts, beauty, and spa treatments during the four-day long 11th edition held in São Paulo. Thousands of professionals took advantage of this outstanding opportunity to mingle with colleagues and get updates on all the latest in trends, products, equipment, and services in the 80,000 square metres of exhibition space. Industry superstar Robert Cromeans, Global Artistic Director of Paul Mitchell Systems was on hand, accompanied by Takashi Kitamura, as well as members of Intercoiffure Latin America. The Hair Brasil Forum also featured more than 100 conferences, seminars, and workshops on hair, make-up and nail art trends to sharpen the skills of participants.
Organised by ESTETICA, HairIST promoted the best of Turkish hairdressing.
Turkish celebrity stylist, Yildirim Özdemir, who invited some of his famous clients to a virtual salon reconstructed on the stage for this occasion. Undoubtedly, the hallmark of Turkish hairdressing and its unique potential for the future.
A G E N D A
NEXT
October
8-11 September Beauty Fair
6-8 InterCharm Milano
Following the huge success of the 2011 edition, with 450 exhibitors and 130 000 visitors exploring over 900 brands on view, the 8th Beauty Fair – International Fair of Cosmetics and Beauty in Brazil – promises to be a must-see event for 2012. Scheduled to take place between 8th and 11th September this year in the Expo Center Norte, São Paolo, the annual appointment is sure to draw professionals from all sectors in the industry including traders, distributors, importers and exporters as well as hair, make-up and nail experts keen to be updated on the latest news and products.
6-8 OMC Hairworld World Cup
São Paulo - www.beautyfair.com.br Save the date! You won’t want to miss the excitement of Beauty Fair!
Milan (Italy) www.intercharm.it
Milan (Italy) www.omchairworld.com
12-16 Goldwell Color Zoom Global Event London (UK) www.colorzoom12.com
13-15 Salon International London (UK) www.salonexhibitions.co.uk
14 Alternative Hair Show London (UK) www.alternativehair.org
Education, contests, products, shows, celebrations, and more!
September
Madrid (Spain) www.wella.com
8-11 Beauty Fair
NEXT
São Paulo (Brazil) www.beautyfair.com.br
6–8 October InterCharm Milano
10-11 Natural Beauty Summit Europe
Milan www.intercharm.it
Paris (France) www.naturalbeautysummit.com
15-16 Beauty Forum & Spa Warschau (Poland) www.health-and-beauty.com
23-24 MCB
Paris (France) www.salonmcb.com
28-30 Salon Look International
28 International Trend Vision Award
Find all the beauty you want at Intercharm!
InterCharm Milano, the international beauty fair, is set to take place October 6-8 in FieraMilanoCity. Positioned to outdo all previous editions, this year attendees will find a series of ‘events within the event’, dedicated to various sectors, like Beauty Salon, Hair, Perfumery, Cosmetics, and Nails. This innovative approach to the world of beauty will include presentations of products, skills, techniques, and creativity in the beauty industry. InterCharm also features Hairworld 2012. Organised by Organisation Mondiale Coiffure, an international benchmark show you won’t want to miss. Only at InterCharm.
Madrid (Spain) www.salonlook.ifema.es
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 119
3
1
DIALIGHT AND DIARICHESSE L’Oréal Professionnel reinvents tone on tone colour treatment by creating an ammonia-free dual formula with two types of technology, first alkaline and the other acid. Usable with three developers, Dialight and Diarichesse offer endless colour possibilities to hairdressers and exclusive services to women. With its acid, ammonia-free formula, Dialight is the perfect colour treatment for women with hair sensitised by colour treatments, perms and straightening services. Diarichesse is the perfect colour service for natural hair, adds gloss and conceals stray grey hairs. Diarichesse offers a possible lift up to one level and coverage increased up to 70 percent white hair.
2 1 ghd GLOSS COLLECTION ghd is following this season’s trend for all things prim and polished. Hair that is effortlessly groomed and glossy with a little bit of bounce and a healthy shine. ghd launches the new glossy limited edition stylers available in two classic finishes, patent black and poppy red.
2
[3D]MENSION [3D]MENSION, Schwarzkopf Professional’s first brand 100 percent engineered for men, meets the requirements of demanding men’s hair in a ‘three dimensional’ way. With a care line working on hair, scalp and roots as well as powerful ranges for styling and colour. The Care range addresses the daily challenges for well-groomed men’s hair, strengthening the hair and soothing the scalp while reducing hair loss and fighting dandruff fast and sustainably. Men are primarily looking for products that give their hair hold, texture and cool matt effects. The Styling range offers individual products for daily styling. The Grey Blend range creates natural grey blending with additional care effects, discreetly applied at the backwash. The set consisting of colour cream and developer is available in six different nuances. Anthracite, Graphite and Chrome deliver a cool grey result that looks natural even with more heavily graying hair. For all other colours showing the first grey streaks, the more neutral nuances Dark Wood, Raw Earth and Desert Sand are recommended.
3
P R O D U C T S
4
FREESHAPE QUICK BLOW DRY For a faster, easier and healthier blow dry, the KMS California Freeshape Quick Blow Dry accelerates drying time and reduces friction while conditioning. The light weight formula provides heat protection and shine. Spray onto towel-dried hair as a last step before blow drying and style as usual.
4
6
DEEPSHINE OIL HAIRCARE RANGE The Deepshine Oil Haircare range, from Rusk, is infused with pure argan oil to deeply nourish the hair and enhance shine. The lightweight, gentle, coloursafe and sulfate-free formulas revive dry, dull hair, leaving it soft, silky and more manageable. The range consists of the Volumising Shampoo and Conditioner, ideal for fine and dull hair, the Moisturising Shampoo and Conditioner rehydrates, revives and transforms dry hair, and the Finishing Hairspray (Extra Strong Hold) is a quick-drying ultra mist that locks styles into place.
5 6
FORCE ARCHITECTE The Force platform targets all women with weakened, damaged hair and split ends. The fibre damage can be linked to several factors, from the simplest damage linked to repetitive brushing, the repetitive use of a straightening iron or hair dryer, to the technical services which tend to weaken the hair. With this in mind, Kérastase has conceived a new formula Ciment Cylane³Complex involving three molecules; IntraCylane, which recreates a holding structure around each breaking point, Pro Keratin, which fills in the cortex’s micro gaps to reconstitute the hair matter and Ceramide, which re-binds the scales of the hair to give back the external cohesion and plays the role of intercellular cement. The hair fibre is totally reconstructed from the inside, resurfaced and consolidated. The hair recovers its strength and shine, and becomes easier to style. The three new products include the Bain Force Architecte, Masque Force Architecte and Fibre Architecte.
5
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 1 21
7
MATRIX TOTAL RESULTS AMPLIFY The Matrix Total Results Amplify range contains protein and panthenol to lift and lock volume for 24 hours. The range is suited to fine limp hair and will result in the hair becoming full bodied, strong and lightweight. The range consists of a Shampoo, Conditioner and Wonder Boost Root Lifter. The shampoo cleanses as it adds lightweight volume with continuous lifting power, while the conditioner removes tangles and builds body and shine. The Amplifying Wonder Boost Root Lifter has a directional nozzle to provide extreme lift at the root area for all over volume.
7
9
OSIS STYLE SHIFTERS The innovative formula of the OSiS Style Shifters, from Schwarzkopf Professional, combines three different polymers creating a subtle, highly elastic net, offering endless styling options while ensuring a completely natural feel. Offering an extremely fine dispersion throughout the hair, the product gives you styling control without feeling sticky. Style Shifters is available with three different support levels for short, mediumlength and long hair, ensuring styling results while on the go. Style Shifters 1 (Pink) offers light texture and a flexible support level of 1 for medium to long hair. The Style Shifters 2 (Green) provides a strong level 2 support for short to medium length hair. Lastly, the Style Shifter 3 (Blue) offers extreme hold and support level 3 for short to medium length hair.
8
9 9
KERASTRAIGHT Prana has launched their new smoothing treatment in South Africa called Kerastraight, which is certified 100 percent aldehyde and formaldehyde free in both formula and vapour, is safe to use during pregnancy, and for cancer patients. The treatment is washed out the same day, therefore clients can leave the salon with washed and dried hair. Colour can be done two days before or two days after the treatment. The Kerastraight treatment lasts up to four months and leaves the hair frizz-free, repaired and conditioned, while reducing styling time. There are three formula variations which allow you to tailor the treatment towards the client’s specific needs and gives you the option to keep the curl without the frizz.
8
P R O D U C T S
10
12
SYSTEM PROFESSIONAL MEN The SP Men range consists of products tailored to specific male needs. The range contains a complete selection of Shampoos and Tonics that are specially formulated to help clients maintain strong and perfectly healthy looking hair and scalp by treating the male hair needs; hair loss, irritation, dry and weak hair. The range of leave-in styling products consist of a gel which gives the hair strong hold, and a matte paste to give the hair extra texture. The SP Men line up also has a selection of rinse-off colour mousses in Black and Brown that work by gradually shading the tone of grey hair.
10
SYSTEM PROFESSIONAL MEN TONICS The SP Men Tonics all contain special Vitamin complexes which do a specific job on the scalp. The Maxximum Tonic, with its ‘Maxximum’ complex fights hereditary hairloss by stimulating the hair root’s blood circulation and improving anchorage. The Sensitive Tonic soothes sensitive areas of the scalp and gently relieves the scalp of itchiness.
11
CANDY FIXATIONS Candy Fixations, the candy inspired range from TIGI Bed Head, consists of five styling products: Mega Whip, Glaze Haze, Totally Baked, Sugar Shock and Sugar Dust. Mega Whip is applied to dry hair for light texture with a flexible hold for shorter styles, or used throughout longer layers for separated style definition. Glaze Haze coats each strand to fight humidity, adds shine and helps speed up drying time. Totally Baked is a volumising blow dry prep cream for long lasting hold, volume and texture. Sprinkle Sugar Dust onto roots to absorb oil and tease for instant volume or sprinkle throughout layers for texture with staying power. Create extreme texture, body and hold with the Sugar Shock Bodifying Sugar Spray.
12
11
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 123
We’ve given ESTETICA African roots. ESTETICA AFRO is an authentic top quality magazine with the main objective to inspire and educate. Showcasing relevent ethnic hair and beauty information, advice, product reviews, news, local and international talent. N° 17/11 EDITION
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ESTETICA INTERNATIONAL Publisher & Director Roberto Pissimiglia Estetica Network Editorial Director Carla De Meo
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Estetica Network Editor-in-chief Laura Castelli International Editorial Coordinator Fatima Pilone International Editorial Assistants Ludovica Cavalli Editorial Staff Sergi Bancells, Daniela Giambrone, Gary Kelly, Kerstin Reymann, Petra Weinzierl Art Direction Barbara Belletti Layout Manuela Artosi, Paola Baratta, Davide Cardente, Elisa Favara Licensing Editorial Coordinator Erika Marchese Licensing Manager Elena Flaugnatti Sales Supervisor Italy, France, Germany, Poland, The Netherlands, South Africa Emilio de’ Martino
AD LIST IFC ghd
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14 Tigi 24 Unique Trends 26 Bobbi Brown 28 KMS California 52 She 102 Paul Mitchell IBC Head Quarters OBC Pureology
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TRENDS Colour palette FEATURE Men’s grooming techniques, styling tips and fashion trends INTERVIEW Rossano Ferretti Anthony Mascolo
1 8 TH E D I T I O N 2012
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