Estetica19

N° 19/12 EDITION

19

THE WORLD’S LEADING HAIR FASHION MAGAZINE

LOOKS Wonder Women FEATURE Salon Décor, Design and Equipment INTERVIEWS David Gillson

1 9 TH E D I T I O N 2012

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Katy Perry for ghd. Call 0860 109 366 for more information. ghd V gold now available in the finest salons and ghdhair.com

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E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 00

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E D I T O R I A L

See Tribute to Vidal page 39

FOREVER, VIDAL! The passing of hairstyling legend, Vidal Sassoon, marked a sad day for the hairdressing industry. A living legend for as long as he was with us and unforgettable now that he looks down upon us from above.

Vidal Sassoon was credited with creating a simple geometric, ‘Bauhaus-inspired’ hairstyle, also called the wedge bob.

Due to the popularity of his styles he was described as a craftsman who ‘changed the world with a pair of scissors’.

His style and popularity allowed him to open the first chain of worldwide hair styling salons.

Unfortunately his illness got the better of him. Last February, on Facebook, his message reached fans worldwide: “Life is precious and I’m enjoying every moment of it. Every moment of it”. The world of hairdressing, and others, have flooded the web with images, memories, dedications and thoughts.

ESTETICA SA has dedicated this edition to the late legend and included a tribute, pages 39-45, to honour his legacy. Hairstylists from around the world share their special moments, stories and experiences of working, meeting or being inspired by him.

Another must-read in this edition is the Salon Décor, Design and Equipment feature on pages 87-107. Choosing the correct lighting, basins, chairs, décor and trying to maximise your space when designing a salon is no small task. In this feature, ESTETICA SA addresses the important issues salon owners are faced with when designing or renovating a salon. Read up on exclusive interviews with top local stylists about conceptualising and designing a salon and the mistakes incurred along the way.

Let us take inspiration from Vidal Sassoon’s lifes work and all he achieved by trying to implement his words as a motto in your salon: “If you don’t look good, we don’t look good!”

Cindy Horton Editor

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Salon: Mahogany Hairdressing Hair: Colin Greaney, International Creative Director Colour: Tai Walker & Michalla Ryder Photography: Andrew Ogilvy Make-up: Rosie Scott Clothes styling: Chloe Holland Products: Schwarzkopf Professional

C O N T E N T

ESTETICA FASHION N°. 19/12 – NINETEENTH EDITION 2012

Published under licence from Estetica, Edizioni Esav srl, Turin/Italy Published by Topco Media 2nd Floor Bree Street Studios 17 New Church Street Cape Town Ph: 086 000 9590 Fax: 021 423 7876 Email: info@estetica.co.za Website: www.estetica.co.za STAFF Publisher Richard Fletcher General Manager Van Fletcher Editor Cindy Horton Sub-Editor Shaheema Albertyn-Burton Design Jayne Macé Advertising & Business Development Manager Lizel Jonker Subscriptions ingrid.johnstone@topco.co.za CONTRIBUTORS Printers Paarl Media Paarl

contents 19.indd 2

Androgyynous styles contradict soft pastel tones and innocent side parting for an ethereal texture.

FASHION

8 Catwalks

Dream Journeys

12 Catwalks

Cape Town Fashion Week

14 History

Olympic Looks

18 Campaign

Iconic Decades

20 Looks

Wonder Women

24 Interiors

Over the Rainbow

27 Beauty

Women

29 Beauty

Men

30 Trends

Easily Gorgeous

34 Vision

Holy Chic

2012/08/20 9:17 AM

12

Everything seems fairly-like. Even the hair, first scraped with pink, then enchained by unruly, slighty hippy waves.

MODA:

INTERNATIONAL

TRENDS

PROFESSIONAL

39 Vidal Sassoon Tribute

87 Feature

Salon DĂŠcor, Design and Equipment

46 Looking Good

88 Dossier

Salon Feng Shui

50 Living Colour

92

Retail

Boosting Aftercare

54 Urban Vibe

98

Interview

Shelene Shaer

58 The College Way

100 Interview

Frank Fowden

62 Fashion Notes

102 Interview

David Gillson

66 Before the Storm

104 Survey

Tooling Around

70 Rebel Rebel

108 Advertorial

Sharplines

74 Deep Inspired

109 Event

Masked Launch

78 Warrior Glam

110 Event

Styling Champs

82 Movie Divas

112 Focus

Reality Shoots

114 Agenda

Calendar

119 Advertorial

no!no!

120 News

Report

124 Products

Reviews

127 Subscriptions 128 Stockists

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Dream

Journeys Nomadic journeys and Judy Garland are just a few of the things inspiring New York designers for Fall. Abandon yourself to your alter-ego. Experiment with a new you.

Jeremy Scott

Bright and sparkling with wildly coloured hair or rigid black with slicked-back hair and bushy ponytails. The only rule is there are no rules.

D

by Kendall Farr

KNY’s fall collection may have been “inspired by the Beat Generation” but the look was quintessentially 21st century New York.

Tailoring with leather trims worn with narrow creased trousers, flirty leather skirts and dark floral prints added to the hard-edged refinement. “The DKNY collection is always a great barometer of New York style,” says Eugene Souleiman, WELLA Global Creative Director who completed the forecast with a base of glossy, pin straight hair, deeply side-parted and drawn into low ponytails. To complement the collection’s clean shapes, says Souleiman, “We gave the hair very straight edges and kept it flat to the head, for a small silhouette.” Peter Som delivered a collection filled with sex appeal and strong, strict shapes for confident women. The subtle reveal of sheer banded organza dresses juxtaposed sculptural jackets and tops with exaggerated drop shoulders worn with body hugging bottoms. “I wanted a precision and crispness,” explains Som. “Everyone wants to feel strong and sexy.” The tension between sex appeal and restraint was evident in Souleiman’s side parted styles. Long hair was made small and sleek at the crown and sides and moved into a textured and wild fullness at the ends. Ponytails were sleek to the head with full tails. Som’s message: strong shapes for strong women. At Jeremy Scott, the models wore sweat suits and body con dresses and leggings printed with Sharp tailoring and computer screens and IM emoticons. The plot? That the leather trims make for present is the past is the present. Since style is a sleek and sexy looks. mash-up of new and old imagery that’s filtered through a Google search, you might as well throw on a candy coloured print and get on with your day. “I was inspired by 3D, geometry and technology. I wanted the girls to look like their own computer Avatars,” says Soueliman.

The result: wigs cut with hyper sharp edges, short bangs and flouro-bright splashes of colour that enhanced the multi–hued palette of Scott’s collection.

Peter Som

DKNY

c a t w a l k s

photooniPad Wella artists came up with absolute contrast for very different collections. From sleek heads and wild ponytails for strong women, highlighting the tension between sex appeal and restraint.

Wild wigs with blunt cuts and fluorescent colours matched the other-worldly and more whimsical looks

by Jeremy Scott.

Jeremy Scott

Peter Som

Jeremy Scott

DKNY

Photos for Peter Som backstage: Gerardo Somoza

Catwalk photos: IMAXtree.com/Vincenzo Grillo

ESTETICASOUTHAFRICA|9

Radio and television personality, model, entrepreneur and style icon, Bonang Matheba is fast becoming one of the biggest stars in South Africa. The highly successful 25 year old is a regular on our TV screens and has produced her own clothing and handbag line.

ESTETICA AFRO gets a glimpse into the glamorous, yet busy life, of ‘Queen B’.

This month sees you co-producing and hosting your own television show. What can we look forward to on the show?

All things glamorous and true to form what I am known for. I can’t talk about it at the moment, but it’s going to be an amazing production.

Next year February will see you starring in the documentary Intersexions Season 2 which explores how HIV moves through the human sexual network. The show

Be

Bedazzled

ESTETICA AFRO chats to gorgeous local personality, Bonang Matheba, on her success in the entertainment, media and fashion industry.

poses the question ‘do you know who your lover has slept with?’. What can we expect from the second season and what was it like being part of a production which voices such a relevant issue in our country?

You can still expect hard hitting acting, an amazing storyline and a gripping season all together. It’s the very first time on set for me as an actress, and what a life changing debut. Intersexions is an award winning documentary and I’m seriously blessed to be a part of it.

You have recently launched your own online reality show called B*Dazzled which sees you inviting fans into your glamorous life. Most recently you interviewed stylist and fashion guru George Kotsiopoulos from the TV show Fashion Police. Are you a fan of the show and what was it like meeting George?

I am a huge fan of fashion in general. Therefore, I follow and love people who work in fashion. George was amazing, a real sweetheart and very down to earth.

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I N T E R V I E W

Luckily I do fashion effortlessly and so does Gert, which makes it a great partnership.

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You marked your start in fashion in 2008 with you’re sold out Just B clothing range in collaboration with the Legit brand. How did this union come about?

Legit did an online poll where people could vote for their favourite girl personality of 2008. My name came out tops and Legit contacted me. The rest is history.

Aside from your clothing brand you also design your own range of handbags called Baby Star. Is this evidence of your secret fashion fetish?

I found it difficult to come across sexy and trendy handbags according to my taste and ones that I would love to carry and be seen with. I definitely have a fetish for handbags, shoes and sunglasses, and the decision to design bags felt very natural.

What is it like to be the face of such a talented local designer such as Gert Johan Coetzee?

It means being a muse to a very talented designer.

Luckily I do fashion effortlessly and so does Gert, which makes it a great partnership. It means getting dressed by the best designer in the country, but it also puts lots of pressure on me to always be on top of my game.

In 2011, you received the SA Style Award for the ‘Most Stylish Media Personality’. Does dressing yourself for events come naturally to you or do you receive styling assistance?

I’ve always styled myself for events and all my TV appearances. I’ve never had or needed a stylist. I’ve always loved clothes from a very young age and luckily I come from a family of very stylish women.

What is your attitude towards fashion and how would you describe your personal style?

My personal style changes depending on my mood. It moves from high street chic (London girl style) to a more glamorous look. Fashion is fun and dynamic.

What fashion trend are you looking forward to wearing this summer?

As we all know neon’s and pastels are major at the moment and I like to incorporate them into my wardrobe. I also love prints. Winter 2013 is going to be tons of fun for me as fashion goes gothic. I can’t wait!

Your hair is always immaculately presented. How do you maintain your hair and what styling products do you use?

I am a brand ambassasor for Diva Divine and my talented hairstylist David takes care of all my needs using their extentions and Ladine products. I am a Cancerian and governed by my emotions, therefore my hairstyles depend entirely on my mood. However my hair is always in braids or a weave which is easier for me to manage.

What beauty products can you not live without?

My foundation, liquid eyeliner, matt lipstick and my gold deposit from MAC. Name the five things you never leave the house without?

My cellphone, purse, make-up bag, asthma pump and laptop.

E S T E T I C A A F R O | 13

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Olympic

looks

One hundred years of Olympics have marked the history of sport, revealing an evolution in looks. In these photos we can see how customs have changed.

Iconic Athletes

Sport, energy, strength. All alphamale elements. But also all good reasons for women in the early twentieth century to get keen on athleticism. Relying on their own strength in their own work and demonstrating this strength in their look. Shorter hair for practical reasons but also a sign of a new femininity, all-conscious and free.

1908

LONDON Danish gymnast

1936

BERLIN Swimming champions: K. Rawls, M. Hoerger Champion Diver, L. Kight and E. Kompa

1908

LONDON Danish gymnasts

1928

1924

AMSTERDAM Martha Norelius, Olympic Gold 400m Freestyle

PARIS Florence Chambers

1912

STOCKHOLM R. D. Clarke and Craig Moore

1936

BERLIN Jack Lovelock, Gold Medal for the 1 500 metres

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H I S T O r Y

photooniPad

1924

1936

Berlin Four American athletes

Chamonix Herma Planck-Szabo, Women’s Figure Skating Gold Medal

1948

London Olympics Opening Ceremony

1968

Grenoble American figure skater Peggy Fleming, Gold Medal

1964 1948

London Back row: P. H. A. Rennard, D. Smith and D. Hay. Front row: coach Pollard, C. Bell and I. Hurst

Tokyo Vera Caslavska, Gold Medal in the Individual Beam Competition, T. Manina and L. Latynina Mexico City US sprinter John Carlos

1968

1968

Mexico City Czech Vera Caslavska on the beam. She won four Gold Medals

1940

Tokyo The Games were cancelled and did not go to Tokyo until 1964

1996

Atlanta Jamie Baulch in action in the 4x400m

Athletes and Olympics. Icons in global evolution, from the early twentieth century to the present day: an unusual collective view.

1976

Montreal D. Nightingale, A. Parker, A. Archibald and S. J. Fox, Gold Medal in the Modern Pentathlon

1976

This desire for short hair became less intense as time went on, giving way to neat waves in the Fifties, irregular updo’s in the Sixties, right up to the totally free Afro-pride of the early Seventies. It wasn’t till the Nineties that more unequivocal hairstyles arrived – showing how an athlete is also a person, even more, a celebrity.

Hair-fashion compensates for the imposition of standardised outfits.

Sport goes glam.

1976

Montreal Nadia Comaneci on the balance beam, three Gold Medals

Innsbruck Dorothy Hamill in the center, Gold Medal skating competition

1984

los Angeles

Carl Lewis, Gold Medal Men’s Long Jump

1996

Atlanta The USA 4x100 Relay Team, Gold Medal

H I S T O r Y

2000

Sydney Marion Jones, Women’s 100m Heats

2008 2000 Beijing

Melaine Walker, Gold for the Women’s 400m Hurdles

Sydney

Audley Harrison, Gold in the Men’s 91kg Boxing

1996

1996

Atlanta

Eunice Barber

Atlanta

Gail Devers, Women’s 100m Heats

2004 Athens

2004 Athens

Matthew Elias, Men’s 4x400m Relay Final

2000

Sydney M. Raquil with J. Baulch, Men’s 4x400m Relay Final

2012

London Olympics Who will be the Olympics look icon this summer?

Photos: Getty Images

Phillips Idowu, Men’s Triple Jump

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 17

Iconic

Decades

Ray-Ban celebrates their 75th anniversary with a legendary campaign. Seven photographs capture iconic moments in time, inspired by ordinary people.

R

ay-Ban Legends tells the history and the spirit of 75 years of Never Hide: the courage to be yourself and freely express your beliefs and personality. Shot by photographer Mark Seliger in California at the end of January, the campaign frames seven legendary moments (one per decade), each inspired by a real life and particularly iconoclastic figure.

“My first pair of sunglasses was Ray-Bans. So when they approached me to shoot the 75th anniversary campaign, it seemed like the ultimate creative dream,” says Mark. “It was one of those opportunities that don’t come around too often, and I really enjoyed being a part of the creative team. Our Creative Director Erik Vervroegen proposed scenarios that were photographic, iconic, controversial and fun, and it seemed like the perfect fit for what I do and what the Ray-Ban brand represents,” continues Mark.

In keeping with the Never Hide spirit, the seven figures unconsciously broke through barriers; their eyes were open while the world’s were closed. A group of pilots, the Blue Devils, in the 1930s; a writer’s ‘relationship’ in the heart of America in the 1940s; a singer songwriter who worked with Elvis Presley in the 1950s; an English socialite in the 1960s; a boy and girl falling in love during a protest in the 1970s; the nightlife of three girls in the 1980s, and a courageous rapper in the 1990s. Ray-Ban was awarded with two Gold Lions at the Cannes Lions 59th International Festival of Creativity 2012 in the Press Lions category in the sections Clothing, Footwear and Accessories and Photography for the Ray-Ban Legends Communication Campaign.

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C A M P A I G N

Icons and legends of the past, present and future: this is the key message of Ray-Ban Legends.

Wonder

Women

Strong and sexy women tapping into their feminine instinct to gain a competitive edge in a man’s world.

Tough-skinned pros yet vulnerable deep down.

T

hree sexy sleuths: Stana Katic, perhaps better known as Kate Beckett and not-sosecret heartthrob of Richard Castle (Nathan Fillion) on ABC; Claire Danes, aka Carrie Mathison, a Central Intelligence Agency officer convinced that Nicholas Brody (Damian Lewis), a U.S. Marine, is a turncoat terrorist; and Emily Deschanel, or forensic anthropologist Dr. Temperance “Bones” Brennan and “partner in crime” to FBI Special Agent Seeley Booth (David Boreanaz). Three steamy couples and three career girls with enough emotional baggage to have turned their hearts to stone and keep potential suitors at bay, yet each with an Achilles’ heel. Moroccanoil® Artistic Director Antonio Corral Calero, a Barcelona-born artist with a very special vision of the world of hair, fashion and style, is now settled in Montreal where he runs his own salon (Le Studio Makeme) and continues to wield backstage influence at fashion shows and red carpet events in the U.S. and abroad. Here’s his take on the looks of our VIP stars in this issue.

Photo: Getty Images

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Stana Katic Stana Katic looks androgynous and sexy here and her simple, effortless hairstyle goes well with this look. I also love the dramatic side parting.

Her hair looks extremely healthy and is the perfect colour for her complexion.

The brilliant red lip colour makes a bold statement and makes her look even stronger and sexier. It really pops, and gives a great contrast to her hair and outfit.

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 21

Photo: Getty Images

Claire Danes As always, Claire Danes’ look is very elegant and fresh.

However, I think it would have been more flattering if her golden blonde hair had been slightly toned down, even if just a shade. Her dress is romantic and pretty, and a sleek, straight hairstyle instead of an updo would have worked really well to balance the whole look. A hydrating styling cream (Moroccanoil Hydrating Styling Cream) could have helped condition and smooth her hair to achieve a beautiful, lustrous blow out.

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Photo: Getty Images

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Emily Deschanel Emily Deschanel looks fabulous with her hair swept away from her face, but I think a side pony-tail or braid would have better complemented her look.

I would suggest using a frizz control spray (Moroccanoil Frizz Control) to soften, and to help control those fly away pieces. Earrings are your best accessory and the colour she chose works perfectly here.

However, since they are so large, it looks like they’re taking over and dominating the look. The deep navy colour works well with Emily’s complexion, but a different design without shoulder pads may have helped achieve a more flattering look for her.

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 23

Over the

Rainbow

Over the rainbow, in a magical land – a click of their heels and KMS California can now take you to any one of their spiffy new salons opening in Hong Kong.

i n t e r i o r s

W

Injections of creative vivid colour into hi-tech black

and white practicality.

hen Dorothy finally reached the City of Oz she was sent to be primped and pampered before meeting the Wizard, even asking her ‘eyes to be dyed to match my gown’. Today’s women are no less demanding when it comes to choosing a salon, wanting a perfect cut, gleaming colour and welcoming salon atmosphere.

Thanks to KMS California, these wishes are about to come true all over the world. Hong Kong is just one place where clients and stylists alike are rejoicing over the good news.

In line with their new universal appeal, KMS has opted for a total make-over in their salon design and product packaging. Ultra-modern spaces with large airy rooms illuminated by natural light, clean lines and outsize impressive visuals all contribute to the creation of salons where people are happy either to work or to enjoy hairdressing services. One particularly striking feature of these

salons is their rainbow-hued product ranges, cleverly displayed in under-lit display shelves against the dual chromatic black and white interiors. These beautiful retail corners guarantee maximum attention and increased in-salon sales. With four salons already open in Hong Kong and another three in the pipeline, the success of these new trend-setting salons is plain to see. Kenny of Red Hill Salon and Head Spa (one of the newly-opened KMS salons) explained that the colourful product ranges are not the only attraction – “We also like their education philosophy which really focuses on stylists, supporting and growing our individual skills so we can focus on our clients and have good business.” Fittingly for a modern upto-date company, social networking provides a way for stylists to catch up on the latest at kmscalifornia.com

“New KMS has changed a lot and we like it!”

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 25

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B E A U T Y

Natural

Women

AHAVA

Couleur Caramel

Physicians

The Rose Geranium Balm Balm Face Balm moisturises and nourishes your face and neck or anywhere else that might need caring for.

Create a sun kissed complexion with Physicians Formula Bronze Booster Glow Boosting Sun Stones.

The Bema Bio Anti Age Day Use cream lessens the effects of ageing.

Physicians Formula Organic Wear 100% Natural Origin Jumbo Lash Mascara.

Add a natural blush to the cheeks with Couleur Caramel Blush Powder.

Deeply nourishing Badger Vanilla Coconut Everyday Body Moisturiser.

Moisturise and restore the skin with Badger Damascus Rose Beauty Balm.

Use Ahava Sun protection Anti-aging Facial Moisturiser to protect your skin this summer.

Badger

Genaium

Physicians

BEMA

Nourish and care for your skin with innovative organic, natural and caring formulations. Beneficial properties and heavenly scents of geranium, coconut and rose revitalise the senses.

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 27

We’ve given ESTETICA African roots. ESTETICA AFRO is an authentic top quality magazine with the main objective to inspire and educate. Showcasing relevent ethnic hair and beauty information, advice, product reviews, news, local and international talent.

N° 17/11 EDITION

A fro ESTETICA w w w. e s t e t i c a . c o . z a

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B E A U T Y

Earthy

Man

Comfort Zone

Yves Saint Laurent

Vichy

Aromatic earthy scents and products infused with plant extracts. Get in touch with your roots and refresh yourself with the latest beauty products.

Prada

Simply Aloe

Tigi

Ray-Ban

Issey Miyake

Vichy Homme Anti-irritations Shaving Gel purifies and protects. Comfort Zone Man Space Hydra Performer after shave restoring hydrator. Yves Saint Laurent L’Homme Eau de Toilette. L’eau D’issey Pour Homme Issey Miyake is a powerful delicately balanced frangrance. On trend eyewear from Ray-Ban and Prada. Simply Aloe Facial Scrub cleansing cream with organic exfoliating grains. Add texture and definition to your hair with Tigi Bed Head Hair Stick.

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 29

Easily

Gorgeous This summer, the ‘in’ look for hair is glamorous that looks effortless. Call it ‘Done Undone’, but it takes a little work to get those sexy, casual locks. Tips from the pros.

by Kendall Farr

S

A good cut also helps, but remember to moisturize and rebuild hair to fight summer sun and heat.

ummer heat and heat styling products can leave your hair looking parched. You’ll need products that replenish moisture. “Women are usually savvy about adjusting their skin care products seasonally, but rarely do so with what they use on their hair,” says Adriana Papaleo, TIGI Academy Educator.

She recommends TIGI’s new Hair Reborn Line, with three individualised systems that clean, condition and revitalise. Sea-derived minerals replenish moisture in dry hair. Silk proteins smooth the frizz, and a lipid complex of keratin and natural oils rebuilds the protein levels of dry and damaged strands.

The pros at Matrix often hear women complain of damaged and fragile hair, often caused by pollution and the elements. Fix it with Total Results Repair system containing Silicones that bond to the cuticle, resurfacing the hair by penetrating brittle strands.

Sherri Jessee for Rusk

Then, Upgrade Your Tools

A wide-tooth wooden comb and a brush with boar bristles should be the basics used to distribute natural oils and product throughout the hair and stimulate the scalp for healthy circulation. Sam Villa’s boar bristle brushes are infused with tourmaline

for thermal protection. “Tourmaline helps seal the cuticle for a shinier finish,” he explains.

Mechanical breakage. Friction.

Thermal damage. It sounds more like Chernobyl than what happens to hair styled with styling tools from the drugstore.

So what offers the best hair protection?

Look for Ionic dryers like John Paul Mitchell System’s Express Ion Turbolight Dryer with a blend of volcanic minerals to reduce drying time by 60 percent without exposing your hair to excessive heat.

In tandem with good tools, choose from the newest ultra-light lotions and leave-in treatments for a protective barrier against blowdrying. Aveda’s Damage Remedy detangles, repairs and reduces stress for all hair types with quinoa proteins while Redken’s Duo Shield 07 Color Protecting Gel-Cream has xylose sugars for thermal protection, ceramides to strengthen the cuticle and reduce friction, and cranberry oil for conditioning.

For shiny, pin-straight runway and red carpet looks: Sleek-ify (don’t fry) your locks. Use a flat iron with thermal controlled ceramic plates

t r e n d s

Matrix

Jesus Rodriguez, William Wilson, Goldwell

linkoniPad

Sherri Jessee for GK Hair

All forms of thermal heat take their toll, sun and styling.

Use the right combination of products and tools.

Joico

Aveda

Easy-care-hair can be any length, as long as you cut and treat it right.

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 31

KMS Artistic Team

Kao Vey Saephanh

32| E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A

Dean Reybal/Planet Salon

With the right cut and products, DIY styling at home can get you from the beach or the gym to your evening venue in no time.

Shanky Gulamani for FHI Heat

Find the right balance of cut and texture for carefree summer fun, daytime or night-time.

Texturise and Volumise

Since too much washing can dry-out your hair, extend the life of your blowout and colour with dry shampoos like L’Oréal Professionnel’s Fresh Dust, an extra-fine spray with a breezy scent that absorbs oil and texturises without weighing down even very fine hair. Sprinkle TIGI’s Bed Head Sugar Dust at your roots and backcomb to absorb the excess oil and add lots of volume.

A textured mane like Giselle’s may be easier to come by walking on the beach than a city sidewalk but saltwater waves are a spritz away with Sexy Hair Soy Renewal Beach Spray. “Let your hair air dry or blow-dry it with a diffuser for easy, all-over texture and fullness,” says Rafe Hardy, SexyHair Artistic Director. Resurrect a style flattened by humidity with a volumising spray that gives you some lift at the roots. For overall weightless volume, the blend of fruit extracts and aloe in Aveda’s pure abundance style prep plump up individual strands for a fuller look.

Healthy Shiny Hair

For frizz-free locks with lots of shine – just add a little oil. Your hair won’t look greasy – just avoid rubbing oil into your roots. Pure oils – like Argan – are instantly absorbed into the hair with no flattening effect.

While they penetrate the cortex to replenish moisture they push water out of wet hair, reducing blow-drying time by up to thirty percent.

Moroccanoil’s Hydrating Styling Cream is blended with pure Argan and vitamins for increased elasticity.

Shield Strands From The Sun

You protect your colour with a hat at the beach but what about in the water? Pre-swim, spritz-on a UVA/ UVB colour protecting product like Paul Mitchell Sun Shield Conditioning Spray to add a protective barrier against salt water and chlorine (the main culprits for drying and fading). Deep condition your hair while you lounge with Sebastian Professional Penetraitt Masque. “The sun will activate the ingredients for a super-hydrating treatment,” says Thomas Dunkin, Sebastian Lead Stylist. Post sun and fun, avoid washing your expensive colour down the drain with Pureology Hydrate shampoo and conditioner enriched with sunflower oil to protect against fading.

Great hair may not be quite as easy as wash-and-wear, but choosing the right tools and products will get you looking ‘undone’ and gorgeous.

A precise bob always adapts well to colour contrasts and slight variations in length and detail. Easy and breezy, sporty or elegant. The ultimate in versatility.

Sherri Jessee for Rusk

that protect, repel frizz, and control static, like the Platform Flat Iron from FHI with bevel-edged paddles for a slight bend at your ends. And use products formulated for direct contact with a flat iron. Joico’s Smooth Cure Leave-in Rescue Treatment is a heat-activated serum with frizz-taming Brazilian-nut oil that delivers smooth-and-straight style with deep conditioning.

David Adams for red Chocolate

t r e n d s

V I S I O N

Holy

Chic

Holy Chic is a divine host of looks that captures the mood of religious iconography in an unorthodox collection. Inspiration was taken from the fashion bible Visionaire’s 60th edition.

34| E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A

Head hugging bobs and tight graduation through the nape and back.

Androgynous styles

Mahogany Hairdressing contradict soft pastel tones and innocent side parting for an ethereal texture.

Angelic Sanctity Hair: Colin Greaney, International Creative Director Colour: Tai Walker & Michalla Ryder Photography: Andrew Ogilvy Make-up: Rosie Scott Clothes styling: Chloe Holland Products: Schwarzkopf Professional

V I S I O N

Vibrant plum tones shot through with fiery copper and resonant dark wine shades. Pastel tones of lilac, rose and strawberry blonde create angelic looks.

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 37

All the main editions of Estetica at a click!

Or even better, a Touch!

Free download on AppStore! w w w . e s t e t i c a n e t w o r k . c o m

MODA

INT’L

“If you don’t look good, we don’t look good” <From Vidal to all the women in the world>

“Vidal you will always

look good and shine as our brightest star. Forever!”

<From Estetica Network to Vidal>

videooniPad

The

legend...

textoniPad

Above: Vidal and John Santilli, who started out in 1964 as a trainer at the Sassoon Academy, then became director in the Golden Age of hairdressing. Below, “The Five Point”(1964), the legendary haircut.

Vidal was Vidal. Unique, inimitable.

You will read this in the words of those who knew him, in the pages to follow.

It was easy to understand in the stirring tribute by our publisher and in the editorials in all the Network editions. Sassoon remains a legend. Not only for Mary Quant’s bob, but above all for his extraordinary brilliance in changing an epoch and an art by inexorably linking it to costume and fashion. “All the greats of hairdressing went through him: from Trevor Sorbie to Tim Hartley,” recalls John Santilli, at his side for 15 years at the London Academy (see the complete inteview on iPad). “Vidal was and always will be: training, innovation, communication. Another gift? Courage.

Surrounding himself with talented professionals. A great leader at the head of an excellent team.”

Vidal era Vidal. Unico, inimitabile. Lo leggerete dalle parole di chi l’ha conosciuto, nelle pagine che seguono. L’avete colto in diretta dalla voce ancora commossa del

nostro editore, negli editoriali di tutte le edizioni del Network. Sassoon è leggenda. Non solo per il bob di Mary Quant. Soprattutto per la straordinaria lucidità di cambiare un’epoca e un mestiere, legandolo inscindibilmente al costume e alla moda. “Da lui sono passati tutti i grandi nomi dell’hairdressing: da Trevor Sorbie a Tim Hartley” ci racconta John Santilli, al suo fianco per 15 anni nell’accademia londinese (tutta l’intervista su iPad).

“Vidal è stato, e sarà sempre: formazione,

innovazione, comunicazione.

Un’altra dote? Il coraggio. Circondarsi di professionisti di valore. Un grande chef a capo di un team eccellente.”

ges

Vidal, c’était Vidal. L’unique, l’inimitable. Vous le saurez en lisant les mots de ceux qui l’ont connu dans les pages qui suivent.

Vous l’avez ressenti en direct en écoutant les propos émus de notre éditeur ou en lisant les éditos de toutes les éditions du Network.

Sassoon est une légende. Pas seulement pour le bob de Mary Quant.

Surtout pour son extraordinaire lucidité à changer une époque et un métier, le liant, à jamais, aux coutumes et à la mode. « Chez lui, sont passés les grands noms de la coiffure : de Trevor Sorbie à Tim Hartley », nous raconte John Santilli qui a été, à ses côtés, pendant 15 ans, dans l’académie londonienne (interview complète sur iPad). « Vidal a été, et sera toujours : formation, innovation, communication.

D’autres qualités ? Le courage. S’entourer de professionnels de valeur.

Un grand chef à la tête d’une équipe exceptionnelle »

Greek Goddess (1967): Vidal’s cut that made hairdressing history.

Below: as worn by Mia Farrow.

Vidal and Mary Quant: a symbiotic partnership.

Two charismatic personalities who changed an era. In hairdressing and in fashion.

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Vidal war Vidal. Einzigartig, unnachahmlich.

Lesen Sie auf den folgenden Seiten die Widmungen derer, die ihn gekannt haben.

Lassen Sie sich berühren von den noch immer bewegten Worten unseres Herausgebers, veröffentlicht im Editorial aller Ausgaben unseres Netzwerkes. Sassoon ist legendär.

Nicht nur für den Bob von Mary Quant.

Vor allem für die außergewöhnliche Klarheit, eine Epoche wie auch ein Handwerk verändert zu haben, untrennbar verbunden mit dem Stil der Kleidung und der Mode.

“Alle großen Namen im Friseurhandwerk sind von ihm beeinflusst worden: von Trevor Sorbie bis zu Tim Hartley”, berichtet uns John Santilli, seit 15 Jahren an seiner Seite in der Akademie in London (das gesamte Interview auf dem iPad). “Vidal war und wird immer sein: Bildung, Innovation, Kommunikation.

Eine weitere Gabe? Courage. Sich mit wahren Profis umgeben. Ein großer Chef an der Spitze eines großartigen Teams.”

Getty Images

Vidal era Vidal. Único, inimitable. Lo leeréis en las palabras de los que lo han conocido, en las páginas que siguen. Lo habéis percibido en directo de la voz aún emocionada de nuestro editor, en los editoriales de todas las ediciones del Network. Sassoon es leyenda. No sólo por el bob de Mary Quant. Principalmente por su extraordinaria lucidez en cambiar una época y un oficio, vinculado indisolublemente al costumbre y a la moda. “Por él han pasado todos los grandes nombres de la peluquería: de Trevor Sorbie a Tim Hartley” nos dice John Santilli, a su lado durante

15 años en la academia londinense (la entrevista completa en el iPad).

“Vidal ha sido y siempre será: formación, innovación, comunicación. ¿Otra virtud? La valentía. Rodearse de profesionales de valor.

Un gran chef al frente de un equipo excelente.”

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 41

“I had known Vidal Sassoon for many years and he has been a life-long inspiration on my work. With his vision and energy, he is the man who changed the face of hairdressing forever. As a person he had an incredible gentleness and a generosity of spirit that was very special.

We were very honoured when Vidal agreed to become Worldwide Patron of Alternative Hair, a position that he took very seriously. He was an incredible support and his influence and inspiration will continue.”

Tony Rizzo

“Anche per chi, come me, ha uno stile e un percorso professionale diverso, Vidal rimane insuperabile. Non solo ha cambiato l’idea di bellezza femminile, ma ha anche dato una nuova dignità all’immagine del parrucchiere. Con lui sono nati il business nella coiffure e la formazione in senso moderno. Un grande, a cui tutti noi dobbiamo molto.”

Maurizio Serretti

“Vidal ha avuto il grande talento di individuare e far crescere ottimi professionisti. Lui era il ‘razzo’, ma alle spalle aveva un motore eccezionale, in grado di portare avanti le sue scelte. Ed era un pioniere della pubblicità. Grazie al suo carisma era capace di comunicare in modo totalmente naturale.”

Sassoon with Frank Gironda at ABS 2011.

The fair was the venue for the premier of

“Vidal Sassoon-The Movie”: a success.

John Santilli The Alternative Hair Show paid tribute to Vidal on his eightieth birthday and dedicated its thirtieth edition to him.

“Die Friseurbranche hat eine inspirierende Persönlichkeit, eine Mode- und Friseur-Legende verloren, einen unermüdlichen Denker, der seine Visionen zur „Berufung Friseur“ in die Welt trug. Wir bei Wella werden ihn sehr vermissen und sprechen seinen Angehörigen unser tiefstes Mitgefühl aus. Wir werden Wege finden, das Andenken des Mannes zu ehren, der soviel für die Branche getan hat. Vidal Sassoon hat Generationen von Friseuren inspiriert

und ein Beispiel gesetzt für das Streben nach technischer

Exzellenz, Perfektion und Präzision.”

Ralf Billharz, Vice President Wella Deutschland, Österreich, Schweiz

“It is with deep emotion that Cosmetologists Chicago mourns the death of Vidal Sassoon.

He always said how much he loved Chicago when he came here for appearances at America’s Beauty Show, including the salon industry premiere of the documentary of his life just last year. Vidal Sassoon enabled salon professionals to achieve their aspirations and dreams by changing the way salons do business. Our entire industry is grateful for his creative leadership.”

Frank Gironda, President, Cosmetologists Chicago

Sassoon won myriad awards: from the GSBA in 2006 (top right) to the Commander of the British Empire medal at Buckingham Palace.

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“En 1958, nous avons passé une journée entière dans mon salon, le journaliste Gabriel Garland, Jean-Louis David, Vidal Sassoon et moi-même, en réflexion sur le devenir de la coiffure contemporaine. Monsieur Vidal Sassoon était un grand Monsieur, qui mérite nos hommages.”

Patrick Ales

videooniPad

Getty Images

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Vidal shows the cover of “The Autobiography”.

Right, with Trevor Sorbie, Bibi Terenzi and Luis Llongueras.

“Sé que estás en la eternidad, en este cielo reservado a dioses… Quiero decirte Vidal que sería muy feliz de estar cerca de ti, de Carita, de Alexandre, de Antoine, de Eugène Schueller, de Coco Chanel, de Dior… de… ¿Me dejaréis? ¿Me dejarás un pequeño espacio? Para mí será un placer de dioses estar a tu lado y de todos los que he admirado mientras coleccionaba vuestra vida y obra para mi Museo… No descanses en paz como mal dicen por aquí…

Hombres como tú, nunca descansan… ¡¡¡Siempre crean!!!”

Raffel Pagès

“La profesión debe mucho a Sassoon. Luchó por desterrar la peluquería inglesa de su clasicismo.

Y en este esfuerzo revolucionó y perfeccionó nuestra técnica base: el corte del cabello. Desde los 60, evolucionó continuamente mejorando su profesión y poniéndola al servicio de los peluqueros.

La explosión de su carrera comenzó con la amistad e intercambio de ideas con un grupo de transgresores de la época, con arquitectos que le transmitieron su pasión por las estructuras, con Mary Quant y con el fotógrafo David Bayle. Tras años de amistad puedo confirmar que Vidal era un auténtico gentleman, buen amigo, nada endiosado y muy humano. Descanse en paz con nuestros eternos recuerdos.”

Lluis Llongueras

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Getty Images

“Vidal war das Vorbild für alle Generationen seit den 60ern und seine Schnitttechnik ist auch heute noch revolutionär. Dem grossen Gentleman war es stets wichtig, Menschen zu unterrichten und zu inspirieren. Ich werde nie seine historische Rede beim Intercoiffure World Congress 2000 in Berlin vergessen. Ich hatte ausserdem die grosse Ehre, ihn 2006 mit Grand Cross auszeichnen zu dürfen, der höchsten Auszeichnung der Intercoiffeur Mondial, Ordre de la Chevalerie. Wir haben alle einen der grössten Stars der Friseurbranche verloren.”

Klaus Peter Ochs

Sassoon with Klaus Peter Ochs, President of Intercoiffure Mondial.

Getty Images

“Comme tous les coiffeurs de ma génération, j’admire profondément l’œuvre de Vidal Sassoon. Avant tout le monde dans les années 70, il a su “libérer la femme” en la réconciliant avec ses cheveux !

Avant lui, les mises en plis étaient strictes, figées, après lui, les cheveux bougent, s’expriment, ont du mouvement. Ses conceptions graphiques, ses audaces, son sens de l’esthétique ont des résonnances encore phénoménales aujourd’hui ! Coiffeur et artiste à la fois, il est de ceux qui ont donné ses lettres de noblesse à notre métier.”

Franck Provost

“Vidal was a lifelong inspiration, mentor and friend.

Vidal was not only instrumental in revolutionizing and commercializing hair in the West, but he kept hair as an art form intact. I am proud to say that Vidal watched and coached my father and myself in mastering the art of hair with grace, generosity and a touch of genius. The world has lost a great man and visionary. My thoughts and prayers are with the Sassoon family.”

Angus Mitchell E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 43

Network

Estetica

Vidal beside Roberto Pissimiglia and the international top hairdressing awards of Nextlook (2004).

“1985: Jannette and Vidal Sassoon were the stars of the photo shoot for the cover of Estetica.

He himself posed at my side in a souvenir

snapshot that I will always cherish.

EsteticaNetwork is proud to dedicate an exclusive space, in all editions, both paper and online, to this great man. In every corner of the globe, a standing ovation for the greatest hairdresser of all times….”

“1985: Jannette e Vidal Sassoon sono protagonisti del servizio fotografico per la cover di Estetica. Modello lui stesso e, al mio fianco, in una foto ricordo che guarderò sempre con commozione. EsteticaNetwork non poteva che dedicargli uno spazio esclusivo su tutte le edizioni: cartacee e online.

In ogni angolo del mondo, standing ovation per il più grande hairdresser di tutti i tempi….”

“1985: Jannette und Vidal Sassoon sind die Hauptdarsteller des Foto-Shootings für das Cover von Estetica. Er selber posierte neben mir für ein Erinnerungsfoto, welches ich immer in Ehren halten werde.

EsteticaNetwork ist stolz darauf, diesem großartigen Mann in allen Ausgaben einen exklusiven Platz zu widmen: gedruckt und online. In jeder Ecke der Welt gibt es stehende Ovationen für den größten Friseur aller Zeiten….”

“1985 : Jannette et Vidal Sassoon sont les protagonistes de la séance photo pour la couverture d’Estetica. Devenu lui-même le mannequin et, à mes côtés, dans une photo souvenir que je regarderai toujours avec grande émotion. EsteticaNetwork se devait de lui consacrer un espace spécial dans toutes ses éditions, papier et en ligne.

Aux quatre coins du monde, standing ovation en l’honneur du plus grand coiffeur de tous les temps….”

“1985: Jannette y Vidal Sassoon son los protagonistas de la sesión de fotos para la portada de Estetica. Modelo él mismo y, a mi lado, en una foto recuerdo que miraré siempre con emoción.

EsteticaNetwork no podía no dedicar un espacio exclusivo en todas las ediciones: en el medio escrito y online. De todos los rincones del mundo, sinfín de ovaciones, para el mayor

peluquero de todos los tiempos….”

Roberto Pissimiglia

www.estetica.it, www.esteticanetwork.com www.esteticamagazine.co.uk www.esteticamagazine.com www.esteticamagazine.de www.esteticamagazine.fr www.facebook.com/Estetica.it www.facebook.com/EsteticaNetwork www.facebook.com/EsteticaFrance www.facebook.com/EsteticaUK www.facebook.com/EsteticaUSA www.facebook.com/EsteticaDeutscheAusgabe www.facebook.com/EsteticaModacabello www.twitter.com/esteticanetwork www.youtube.com/esteticatv, www.beautybit.net

The future...

“Our industry has lost a visionary and creative genius, and the world has lost an amazing human being.

The world rarely encounters someone who had the profound impact that Vidal has had, and everyone in the industry is indebted to Vidal’s courage and single-minded vision, the effects of which will be felt for many generations to come. All of us at Sassoon will miss him dearly, and will honour his memory by dedicating ourselves to continuing the work he loved so much.”

“Il nostro settore ha perso un genio visionario, e creativo e il mondo ha perso un essere umano straordinario. Raramente si incontra qualcuno che abbia lo stesso profondo impatto che ha avuto Vidal, e ognuno di noi deve qualcosa al suo coraggio e alla sua vision, i cui effetti si sentiranno per molte generazioni. A tutti noi Sassoon mancherà moltissimo, e onoreremo la sua memoria impegnandoci nel portare avanti quel lavoro che lui ha così tanto amato.”

“Unsere Branche hat ein visionäres und kreatives Genie und die Welt einen erstaunlichen Menschen verloren. Nur selten trifft man auf jemanden mit dieser tiefgreifenden Bedeutung wie es bei Vidal der Fall war. Jeder in der Branche ist Vidals Mut und zielstrebigen Visionen zu Dank verpflichtet, deren Auswirkungen noch für viele Generationen spürbar sein werden. Wir alle bei Sassoon werden ihn sehr vermissen und sein Andenken ehren, indem wir die Arbeit fortsetzen, die er so geliebt hat.”

“Notre secteur a perdu un génie visionnaire et créatif et le monde a perdu un être humain formidable. Rares sont les personnes sur cette Terre qui ont laissé une empreinte si profonde.

Le secteur est redevable envers Vidal pour le courage et la vision déterminée dont il a fait preuve. L’on en ressentira encore les effets pendant de nombreuses générations. Chez Sassoon, il nous manquera terriblement et nous lui rendrons hommage en poursuivant le travail qu’il aimait.”

Mark Hayes, Global Creative Director of Vidal Sassoon

“Nuestra industria ha perdido a un genio visionario y creativo y el mundo ha perdido a un ser humano increíble.

El mundo rara vez se encuentra con alguien que tuviera el profundo impacto que Vidal ha tenido, y el sector agradece la valentía de Vidal y su determinación, cuyos efectos se dejarán sentir durante muchas generaciones por venir. Nosotros en Sassoon lo vamos a extrañar mucho y rendiremos homenaje a su memoria dedicándonos a continuar el trabajo que amaba.”

Mark Hayes Sassoon International Creative Team Photo: John Akehurst

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 45

Looking new Fresh originality, with a nod to the past – but reinterpreted. Italian style, dipped in Milan glamour, is the updated reference point. ‘A sense of new’ from Alfaparf Milano rediscovers the Italian values of craftsmanship and design, via its most creative hub.

Hair: Alfaparf Milano International Team La freschezza del nuovo riconoscendo il passato.

Reinterpretato. Lo stile italiano, intriso del glam di Milano, è il riferimento che si rinnova. A Sense of New di Alfaparf Milano riscopre i valori nazionali di artigianalità e design, attraverso il suo polo più creativo.

Frische Ideen mit Anklängen an die Vergangenheit.

Neu betrachtet. Der italienische Stil, voller Glamour aus Mailand, ist die Referenz, die erneuert wird. A Sense of New von Alfaparf Milano entdeckt durch sein kreatives Zentrum die nationalen Werte von Handwerk und Design wieder.

La fraîcheur du nouveau en hommage au passé. En le réinterprétant. Le style italien, empli du glam du tout Milan : voici la référence qui se réactualise. A Sense of New, signé Alfaparf Milano, redécouvre les valeurs du Made in Italy, de son savoir-faire artisanal et du design, vu de son côté le plus créatif.

El frescor de lo nuevo reconociendo el pasado. Reinterpretado. El estilo italiano, impregnado del glamour de Milán, es la referencia que se renueva. A Sense of New de Alfaparf Milano vuelve a descubrir los valores nacionales de artesanía y diseño, a través de su centro más creativo.

Brands &

Collections

E S T E T I C A M O D A | 47

Hair: Alfaparf Milano International Team Photo: Diego Diaz Styling: Istituto Europeo di Design Products: Alfaparf Milano E S T E T I C A M O D A | 49

I colori naturali che arrivano dalla terra per dare energia viva al look. Entrare in contatto con il lato più autentico del proprio modo di essere. Un Full Spectrum infinito, luminoso per accendere i capelli di colore e vestire a nuovo una femminilità spontanea, libera.

Natürliche Farben aus der Erde, um dem Look lebendige Energie zu geben.

In Einklang mit der authentischsten Art des Seins. Ein Full Spectrum lichtdurchflutet, um die Haarfarbe zu entflammen und aufs Neue in eine weibliche Spontaneität zu kleiden - frei.

Living colour Natural colours born from the earth, for glowing energy in your look.

Get in touch with the real side of your personality.

An infinite Full Spectrum, brilliant to light up your hair colour and transform your innate, free femininity.

Hair: Aveda Les couleurs naturelles qui viennent de la Terre pour donner de l’énergie et raviver le look. Accéder au côté le plus authentique de sa propre façon d’être. Un Full Spectrum infini, lumineux pour iriser et illuminer les cheveux et les habiller d’une toute nouvelle féminité spontanée et libertaire.

Los colores naturales que llegan de la tierra para dar energía viva al look. Entrar en contacto con el lado más auténtico del propio modo de ser. Un Full Spectrum infinito, luminoso para encender los cabellos con color y vestir una nueva feminidad espontánea, libre.

E S T E T I C A M O D A | 51

Hair: Ian Michael Black and Ricardo Dinis for Aveda Make-up: Janell Geason Styling: Allen Ruiz Products: Aveda Previous double page (right) Hair: Bruno Elorrioroz and Antoinette Beenders for Aveda Make-up: Stephen Dimmick Styling: Allen Ruiz Products: Aveda E S T E T I C A M O D A | 53

Tutta l’energia della metropoli. Tutto il fascino della seduzione femminile.

Mescolare con vivacità e bere d’un fiato ascoltando il battito. Looks Collection by ghd ci fa assaporare un mondo metropolitano dove le donne sono creature forti, possenti e incredibilmente magnetiche.

Urban vibe

Die gesamte Energie der Metropole. Der ganze Charme der weiblichen Verführung. Rühren Sie kräftig und trinken sie in einem Atemzug, dem Beat lauschend. Die Looks Collection von ghd läßt uns die Welt der Großstadt geniessen, in der Frauen stark, mächtig und unglaublich anziehend sind.

A glass of urban energy. A cup of feminine seductive charm. Stir well and drink in one go, hear the beat. Looks Collection by ghd invites us to taste a metropolitan world where women are strong, mighty and incredibly magnetic creatures.

Hair: Kenna, Sophia Heffer and Emilia Pelech for ghd Toute l’énergie des métropoles. Tout le charme de la séduction féminine. Mélanger avec vivacité et boire d’un trait tout en écoutant le battement.

Looks Collection, signé ghd, nous fait goûter à un monde urbain où les femmes sont des créatures fortes, puissantes et incroyablement magnétiques.

Toda la energía de la metrópolis. Todo el encanto de la seducción femenina. Mezclar con vivacidad y beber de un trago escuchando el latido. Looks Collection by ghd nos deja saborear un mundo metropolitano donde las mujeres son criaturas fuertes, poderosas e increiblemente magnéticas.

E S T E T I C A M O D A | 55

Hair: Kenna, Sophia Heffer and Emilia Pelech for ghd Photo: Benjamin Lennox Make-up: Zoe Taylor and Alexandra Byrne Styling: Hope Von Joel Products: ghd

E S T E T I C A M O D A | 57

Aria bon ton e dettagli school-made. Si aprono le pagine de Il Giovane Holden, la mente corre veloce a L’Attimo Fuggente e alle poesie di Robin Williams. In questa allure autunnale, frange e ciuffi convivono con cravatte, doppiopetto e colori Seventies. Princeton docet.

Gepflegtes Äusseres und Details aus der Schule. Öffnet man die Seiten von Der Fänger im Roggen denkt man sofort an den Club der toten Dichter und die Poesie von Robin Williams. In diesem Herbst existieren Pony und Tolle Seite an Seite mit Krawatten, Zweireihern und Siebziger Jahren. Princeton docet.

The College way Tasteful air, schooldays details. Opening ‘Catcher in the Rye’, thoughts fly to ‘Dead Poets’ Society’ and Robin Williams’ verses. This autumn charm is made up of fringes and unruly forelocks along with neckties, double-breasted jackets and colours from the Seventies. Princeton leads the way.

Hair: Capelli Group for Glynt Un style BCBG et des détails « college ». On ouvre les pages de L’Attrape-Cœurs tandis que l’esprit s’évade rapidement vers Le Cercle des Poètes Disparus et les poèmes de Robin Williams.

Pour ce style automnal, les franges et mèches côtoient les cravates, débardeurs et couleurs Seventies. Très Princeton.

Estilo bon ton y detalles school-made. Se abren las páginas de El Guardián Entre el Centeno, la mente corre veloz a El Club de los Poetas Muertos y a las poesías de Robin Williams.

Encanto otoñal, flequilllos y mechones conviven con corbatas, americanas y colores Seventies.

Princeton docet.

E S T E T I C A M O D A | 59

Creative Direction: Thorsten Hussfeldt for Glynt Hair: Capelli Group for Glynt Photo: Melanie Riedl Make-up: Katja Luz and Vanessa Hagemann Styling: Christina Bohlein

E S T E T I C A M O D A | 61

Nell’era del web 2.0 anche la moda si esprime secondo canali globali. I fashion blogger dettano gli streetstyle nel tempo di un click. Colori, forme, texture fanno il giro del mondo a bordo di iPad, iPhone e supporti Android.

Meta-linguaggi per digital catwalks.

Fashion notes

Im Zeitalter des Web 2.0 äußert sich auch die Mode mit Hilfe der globalen Kanäle. Die Fashion Blogger diktieren den Street-Style mit nur einem Klick.

Farben, Formen, Gewebe reisen um die Welt auf iPad, iPhone und via Android.

Meta-Sprache für digitale Laufstege.

In a second generation web world, fashion also travels via global channels. Fashion bloggers dictate streetstyle in click-time.

Colours, shapes and texture speed around the world on iPads, iPhones and Android devices. Meta-languages for digital catwalks.

Hair: Leonardo Rizzo for Indola

À l’époque du Web 2.0, la mode aussi entend s’exprimer en version globale.

De leur clic, les blogueuses fashionistas dictent le streetstyle. Couleurs, formes, textures, tout fait le tour du Net à travers iPad, iPhone et autres applis Android.

Métalangages pour des podiums numériques.

En la era del web 2.0 también la moda se expresa a través de canales globales.

Los fashion bloggers dictan los streetstyle a ritmo de clic. Colores, formas, texturas dan la vuelta al mundo en iPad, iPhone y soportes Android. Meta-lenguajes para pasarelas digitales.

E S T E T I C A M O D A | 63

A G E N D A

A quick November wrap-up of Mizani Product Knowledge Relaxer and Treatment Woodmead past and 7 and 8 November upcoming 21 and 22 November events on the local scene. Mark your date books!

TRAINING

Motions

Relaxing Theology, Johnnesburg 4 days Cutting Dynamics, Johannesburg 4 days Styling Techniques, Johannesburg 4 days Weaving Patterns, Johannesburg 4 days Micro-extensions, Johannesburg 4 days Health, Safety and Security, Johannesburg 4 days Consultation Philosophy, Johannesburg 4 days Perming Techniques, Johannesburg 4 days For course dates and bookings call 011 492 2436

FRIKA

FRIKA provides training to salons and stylists upon request. For more information contact 08600 FRIKA (37452).

E S T E T I C A A F R O | 65

Before the STORM UNREAL, HYPNOTIC, A LITTLE MAGIC: THE CALM BEFORE A STORM, PRECEDING THE FLASHES OF LIGHTNING AND CLAPS OF THUNDER, BEFORE THE WIND THAT DEVASTATES PLANTLIFE, HAIR AND SOULS. EVERYTHING SEEMS FAIRYTALE-LIKE. EVEN THE HAIR, FIRST SCRAPED WITH PINK, THEN ENCHAINED BY UNRULY, SLIGHTLY HIPPY WAVES. Hair: The La Biosthetique Artistic Team Irreale, ipnotica, un po’ magica: è la quiete prima della tempesta, prima dei lampi e dei tuoni, prima del vento che sconvolge fronde, capelli e anima.

Tutto assume i contorni della fiaba. Anche i capelli, ora graffiati di rosa, ora incatenati da onde ribelli e un po’ hippy.

Unreal, hypnotisch, ein wenig magisch ist die Ruhe vor dem Sturm, vor dem Blitz und Donner, vor dem Wind, der Blätter, Haare und Seele durcheinanderwirbelt.

Alles vor dem Hintergrund der Geschichte. Sogar die Haare, mit Anklängen von Pink, kombiniert mit Wellen und ein bißchen Hippie.

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Surréaliste, captivant, un peu magique : tel est le calme avant la tempête, avant les éclairs et le tonnerre, avant le vent qui chamboule les rivages, chevelures et âmes.

Le tout prend l’allure d’un conte.

Même les cheveux sont tantôt striés de rose tantôt enchaînés par des vagues rebelles, un brin hippy.

Irreal, hipnótica, un poco mágica: es la calma antes de la tormenta, antes de los rayos y los truenos, antes del viento que sacude hojas, cabellos y alma. Todo adquiere los contornos de la fábula. Incluso los cabellos, ahora arañados con rosa, ahora encadenados por ondas rebeldes y un poco hippy.

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Hair: The La Biosthetique Artistic Team Photo: Markus Jans Products: La Biosthetique Paris E S T E T I C A M O D A | 69

C’è quel periodo in cui sembra impossibile non indossare borchie, altissime zeppe, smalto nero e fantasie leopardate. Soprattutto dai 20 ai 30. Va da sé che l’hairstyling si deve adeguare.

Nell’ipotesi label.m, frange lunghissime, morbide onde e nuance sfacciate.

Black power.

Es ist die Zeit, in der es unmöglich erscheint, Nieten, hohe Plateauschuhe, Leoparden-Muster und schwarzen Lack nicht zu tragen. Zwischen 20 und 30.

Es versteht sich von selbst, dass das Hairstyling angepasst wird. Im Fall von label.m mit langen Ponys, weichen Wellen und kühnen Farben.

Black power.

Rebel REBEL

There’s a moment when you just can’t say no to studs, vertigo-inducing platform heels, black nail varnish and leopard print. Especially that moment between 20 and 30 years old. Of course, your hair has to match. Label.m propose a long fringe, soft waves and in-your-face colour. Black power.

Hair: label.m International Artistic Team

Il y a des jours où fashionista signifie clous, hautes semelles compensées, vernis à ongle noir et imprimé léopard. Surtout entre 20 et 30 ans. Et la coiffure doit suivre. Dans ce cas, label.m propose des franges ultra longues, des vagues souples et des nuances facettées.

Black power.

Hay un período en el que parece imposible no llevar tachuelas, cuñas altísimas, esmalte negro y fantasías leopardo. Sobre todo de los 20 a los 30. Evidentemente hay que adecuar el peinado. En la hipótesis de label.m, flequillos larguísimos, ondas suaves, y matices llamativos. Black power.

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Art Direction: Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck Hair: label.m International Artistic Team Photo: Troyt Coburn Make-up: Alexandra Burne Styling: Ursula Lake Products: label.m

Muse ispiratrici. Che abitano il tempo, conquistando gli spazi più remoti della città. Eroine metropolitane con tanta voglia di libertà e poche regole (di styling).

I capelli si muovono nel vento o vengono catturati da chignon décoiffé.

Il colore intrappola la luce.

Deep inspireed.

Anregende Musen. Sie beherrschen die Zeit und erreichen die entlegensten Gegenden der Stadt.

Heldinnen der Metropolen mit dem Wunsch nach Freiheit und wenig Regeln (beim Styling). Die Haare bewegen sich im Wind oder werden vom Chignon décoiffé eingebunden.

Die Farbe fängt das Licht ein. Deep inspired.

Deep INSPIRED Inspirational muses. Who occupy time as opposed to space, taking over the most remote areas of the city. Urban heroines with a strong desire for maximum freedom and minimum rules (for styling). Hair flutters in the breeze or is captured in a ruffled chignon. Colour traps light. Deep inspired.

Hair: Lucie Doughty for Paul Mitchell Muses inspiratrices. Qui habitent le temps, en conquérant les espaces les plus éloignés de la ville. Des héroïnes urbaines avec une grande envie de liberté et très peu de règles (en coiffure). Les cheveux volent au vent ou sont capturés par des chignons décoiffés.

La couleur emprisonne la lumière.

Profonde inspiration.

Musas inspiradoras. Que habitan el tiempo, conquistando los lugares más remotos de la ciudad. Heroínas metropolitanas con un gran deseo de libertad y pocas reglas (de estilo). Los cabellos se mueven al viento o son capturados por moños décoiffé.

El color atrapa la luz. Deep inspireed.

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Hair: Lucie Doughty for Paul Mitchell Photo: Arnaud Korenke Make-up: Anthony Merante Styling: Leilani Lacson Products: Paul Mitchell

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Tornare alle origini per ripercorrere antichi sentieri di bellezza. Raccolti sauvage giocano con lo spirito del mondo, asimmetrie e sovrapposizioni si fondono con il battito profondo della terra. Il rosso come simbolo di amore, accessori e tribe tattoo per dare forma ai sogni.

Zurück zu unseren Wurzeln, um auf den alten Pfaden der Schönheit zu wandeln.

Gebündelte Wildheit spielt mit der geistigen Welt, den Asymmetrien und vereint sich mit dem tiefen Herzen der Erde. Das Rot als ein Symbol der Liebe, Accessoires und Stammes-Tätowierung, um Träumen Gestalt zu geben.

Warrior GLAM Back to the roots, retracing ancient paths of beauty. Wild up-do’s with a global spirit, asymmetry and overlapping merge with the deep heartbeat of the earth. Red for love and passion, accessories and tribal tattoos bringing dreams to life.

Hair: Philippe Tapprest for René Furterer Retourner à ses origines pour reparcourir les anciens chemins de la beauté. Les cheveux attachés à la sauvageonne jouent avec l’esprit du monde, les asymétries et les superpositions se mélangent au battement profond de la Terre. Le rouge comme symbole de l’amour, les accessoires et tatouages tribaux pour donner vie aux rêves.

Volver a nuestras raíces para recorrer antiguos senderos de belleza. Recogidos sauvage juegan con el espíritu del mundo, asimetrías y superposiciones se funden con el latido profundo de la tierra. El rojo como símbolo de amor, accesorios y tatuajes tribales para dar forma a los sueños.

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Hair: Philippe Tapprest for René Furterer Photo: Alain Bocquet Products: René Furterer E S T E T I C A M O D A | 81

Movie DIVAS The golden age of Italian cinema, in a vintage charm collection.

Cinematic celebrates the magic of Fellini and his unforgettable divas.

Revlon Professional welcome spring-summer 2012 with soft volumes, vintage waves and brilliant colours. Lights, camera, action!

Hair: Miguel Garcia Cotado for Revlon Professional, The Colomer Group Artistic Team and Charlie Price L’età dorata del cinema italiano in una collezione dal fascino vintage. Cinematic celebra la magia di Fellini e delle sue indimenticabili dive. Una primavera-estate 2012 firmata Revlon Professional che porta alla ribalta morbidi volumi, onde vintage, colori luminosi.

Ciak si gira.

Das goldene Zeitalter des italienischen Kinos in einer Sammlung mit VintageCharme. Cinematic feiert die Magie von Fellini und seinen unvergesslichen Diven. Ein Frühling-Sommer 2012 von Revlon Professional, mit Schwerpunkt auf weichem Volumen, Vintage Wellen, hellen Farben. Die Klappe fällt.

L’âge d’or du cinéma italien dans une collection au charme rétro. Cinematic célèbre la magie de Fellini et de ses inoubliables divas. Un printemps/été 2012 vu par Revlon Professional qui fait un gros plan sur les volumes souples, les vagues vintage et les couleurs lumineuses. Silence, on tourne.

La edad de oro del cine italiano en una colección de encanto vintage. Cinematic celebra la magia de Fellini y de sus inolvidables divas. Una primavera-verano 2012 firmada Revlon Professional que pone al centro de la atención volúmenes suaves, ondas vintage, colores luminosos.

3,2,1... ¡acción!.

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Artistic Direction: Miguel Garcia Cotado for The Colomer Group Hair: Revlon Professional Artistic Team for The Colomer Group and Charlie Price Photo: Txema Yeste Make-up: Victor Alvarez Products: Revlon Professional

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Enter the ESTETICA digital world.

The future is now!

WEB www.estetica.co.za

SOCIAL MEDIA www.facebook.com/ Esteticasouthafrica

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www.twitter.com/ @Estetica_SA

2012/08/16 3:13 PM

Sfeature alon Choosing the correct lighting, basins, chairs, colour scheme, dĂŠcor and trying to maximise your space when designing a salon, is no small task. In this feature, ESTETICA addresses the important issues salon owners are faced with when designing or renovating a salon.

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austin, texas

Ron King Salon

Salon Feng Shui Is the energy flowing smoothly in your salon? Here are some tips and quick fixes for optimising the space you have.

by Kendall Farr

T

his spring your day­dreams of expanding your salon might not require a construction crew but rather an eye to rearranging the furniture.

Eliminating dead space is the best means to optimising the space you have say the salon owners and managers who recently spoke to Estetica.

How’s Your Blueprint?

Allocating the right amount of space for service versus retail is the place to begin evaluating your revenue stream. Robert Cromeans, the Global Artistic Director for Paul Mitchell who owns salons in Las Vegas, Tulsa and San Diego describes his blueprint as eighty percent ‘Salon Experience’, including Styling Stations, Lather Lounge and the Colour Bar, while twenty percent is dedicated to ‘Take Home’. To keep the retail zones distinct, the salon has created themed areas for some of the Paul Mitchell brands they sell, like the Mitch for Men and Awapuhi Wild Ginger. At Gila Rut Aveda Salon in San Diego, most of their compact 1450 square footage is outfitted to generate income. Treatment chairs have been precisely spaced to fit as many stations as possible.

For a multi-tasking approach to guest service, a facial waxing cart on wheels in the shampoo area is where a hair gloss and brow shaping happen together.

D O S S I E R

linkoniPad

Every Square Foot Counts

Space to enhance your service wheel is critical say our salon owners. “In our small salon, wall-seated chairs for colour processing were not an efficient use of space. Instead, we installed a brightly coloured counter area where our guests can work at their computers or relax and read while their colour proces­ses. This enables us to book more appointments throughout the day,” says Kari Bennett Founder and Master Artist of the Atelier Salon Spa and Atelier Studio Aveda partners located in San Jose, CA. At Hair By Cesare in Pasadena, the salon is designed to resemble an open and distinct series of residential rooms that help differentiate service areas from retail. This floor plan created space for a Hairdreams hair extension room where clients enjoy privacy and the salon has experienced increased sales for their extension services. Trial and error guided an evolving use of space at the Square Salon, a Rusk partner in Las Vegas. “Initially, we had two large waiting areas on either side of the front desk with some retail spread out on both walls. We changed that to allocate one side entirely for retail displays organised in wall units. Then we experimented with extra seating by placing smallerscaled, modern chairs in underutilised areas,” says Amy Elaine Ho, Rusk Educator and a hair and makeup artist at the salon.

Atelier Salon san jose, california

Photography by Michael Houghton/STUDIOHIO

In the retail area, a small sink installed in a makeup station makes a selection of add-on beauty rituals accessible while a client waits for her hair service.

“We removed bulky wall mounted shelves in favour of sleek, wood Etopa units with built-in bunkers that provide lots of storage and a warmer atmosphere too,” explains Keri Davis, the salon’s president.

Optimising the floor plan was also the goal at the Ron King Salon in Austin TX. “Our focal point is the L’Oréal Professionnel Inoa colour bar – an interactive space –where client consultations and colour mixing happens all together. It saved us space to combine where these things take place,” says owner Ron King.

Optimising space

Combine more than one function in the same space, and facilitate traffic flow.

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Spice up your Menu

Like the best restaurants, hair salons need to refresh and expand their menus with new services and ‘specials’ that keep their guests asking for more. At Atelier Studio, an Aveda partner, opting for the addition of a compact beauty bar rather than an entire room for spa services has increased their average ticket. “We added a six-foot makeup unit with a concealed waxing station. From a semi–reclining chair at the station we can add-on services like brow design, mini-facials and make-up application. We find that our guests prefer the speed of ‘minis’ compared to the time commitment for longer services, says Karie Bennet.

While at Hair By Cesare a smart use of space meant a place to add sugaring hair removal, a popular, unisex service. The Anthony Leonard Salon in New York City made one simple rotation of the styling stations to create more space for added services.

A better flow between the colour dispensary and the shampoo stations meant there was room for guests to linger over oil treatments. “We have incorporated Moroccanoil – one of our top selling products – as an additional treatment during cuts and colour services.

We also freed up space for a mobile nail station so guests can have hair and nail services simultaneously,” says Anthony Palermo, a stylist at the salon. “By making one small change in our retail area, I am able to create new specials and events, says Ron King. “We all know that the bottom shelves in a display don’t generate any retail income. I turned mine into a fashion and beauty library stocked with interesting books for my guests and stylists to reference. One book about facial contouring inspired my make-up artist to run a successful holiday special based on the techniques in the book” explains King. Eliminating an underutilised make-up station made room for an acrylic and gel-free ‘natural’ nail service that is a well-received add-on service with guests. Featuring fashion as a compliment to beauty has paid off at the Square Salon as well. “Our retail shelves are on wheels, so we can move things around to make room for special events like clothing and jewellery sales that bring in a lot of new visitors,” says Amy Elaine Ho.

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Outfitting

Compact work stations, reception, retail, dryers, colour bar-station combos.

Rethink Equipment

Sleeker. Smaller. Faster. The newest generation of salon equipment has been developed for high performance and saving space. Space and speed improved at Hair by Cesare with the addition of the compact and portable Laserbeam XP by Hairdreams.

Requiring minimal shelf space for storage, we can use it anywhere in the salon and it allows us to apply eight strands in 45 seconds” says Safieh. A tangle of blow dryers taking up counter and drawer space is a thing of the past at Robert Cromeans. “We installed the Freestylist blowdryer system which retracts from the ceiling so each station is always equipped. No more searching for missing blow dryers and no more cords wrapped around our guests!” says Cromeans.

Mobile heat dryers and a switch to ionic and ceramic tools speeds drying time which means time to increase bookings at the Anthony Leonard Salon. Wall mounted, retractable, heated light dryers adjust to service up to four chairs in the service area at the Square Salon.

Less glamorous but entirely essential is the wall mounted and tankless water heater that saves significant floor space at the Gila Rut Salon. “Our hooded dryers are also wall mounted so we don’t need a special seating area for those, says Keri Davis.

“A guest can be coloured and processed in the same chair,” she adds. While they wait for their colour to process, salon guests aren’t the only ones using smart phones and tablets to run their businesses. iPads and iPods have replaced the need for a large computer station for booking and billing at Hair

by Cesare. “We use them to run our entire booking and inventory system. We scan merchandise directly from an iPod to a client ticket, making it all more efficient with less space needed,” he explains.

This is the season to grab a tape measure and get creative. The solution to your salon’s space dilemma may be right at hand.

D O S S I E R

Robert Cromeans

Square Salon

las vegas, nevada

Gila Rut Salon San diego, california

Photography by KELLY FITZGERALD

Las vegas, nevada

Hair by Cesare Courtesy of Etopa

pasadena, california

Tangerine Salon allen, texas

George the Salon

Soft-sell consultations, eye-catching displays, sample products and experiences,

Boosting aftercare and more can all help increase client retention and your bottom line.

Estetica talks to the experts.

The Experience

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Ask a client what she loved about her experience at your salon and she’ll probably describe feeling pampered. It may have been the complimentary hand massage she received or that your attentive front desk staff always makes her feel so welcome. She may mention your concierge who stops by the styling stations to book her next appointment, and the perking-up of her image, well, that goes without saying. What she probably won’t mention is that she loves discovering new products to take home and use to keep up her refreshed look.

For customers, the salon is a natural place to discover this season’s latest brands and new inventions.

However, a challenging economy, more and more salons have devised retail strategies that help their guests find these products both through consultations with their stylists and with displays that feels more décor than hardcore commerce, but ask a group of salon owners and managers to describe their optimal retail flow and the answers differ significantly. While some group retail products at the register for a ‘check-out review’, others provide samples for the guest to try at home to encourage future purchases.

Beyond shelves or artfully lit cubes and kiosks, other salons create capsule displays to highlight what’s new.

R E T A I L

Rocky Vitelli’s

For the September launch of Mitch, Paul Mitchell’s new men’s grooming range, the Robert Cromeans Salon in LA created a themed display. “A yellow wall accented with red chairs and white mirrors matched the Mitch packaging and the product was placed on red floating shelves,” explains Cromeans, Artistic Director for Paul Mitchell Systems and the salon owner. A mixed-media, ‘editorial’ approach was used at Mane Society in Toronto. “We like to incorporate bold colours on a wall inspired by the newest colours from lines like Farouk’s Chi along with beauty products like nail polish,” says Rocky Vitelli the salon’s co-owner and a member of Farouk Systems Global Artistic Board. “This keeps our guests up-to-date on current colour trends.” While at George The Salon in Chicago, owner George Gonzales believes that a neutral canvas best showcases the colourful and graphic packaging of the products he sells.

Mare Society Salon, Toronto

The Products

Talk to Me

Subtle suggestions at the styling station (top), high impact ton-sur-ton (above), or a specific retail section (below).

Courtesy of Redken

“People shop in one of two ways, [either by] self– selecting or by recommendation,” says Catherine Culotta, Vice President Retail Sales for Aveda North America. She believes that in order to retail successfully, both styles should be encouraged with a layout that’s easy to navigate and clearly merchandised so that guests can find what’s new, read about product performance, and price.

Whatever their visual strategy may be, our experts are unanimous: education is the number one way to increase your sales.

“If a salon owner or manager really wants to know why they aren’t retailing, they should be out on the floor listening to the staff,” advises Sue Trondson, Vice President of Sales and Education for Aveda North America. “It’s shocking how often service providers don’t share information with their guests,” she adds.

Our experts recommend that every spoke of your service wheel, from the all-important front desk exposure to stylists and colourists, to the shampoo assistants at the back bar, should be prepared to speak knowledgeably about all the products you sell.

“It’s relatively easy to generate sales when the main

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Aveda

focus of the time with each guest is spent educating them on how to maintain the look they are investing in.

Different services require different products. When (the staff) has a thorough understanding of what characteristics each product offers, they’re better equipped to recommend a plan for at-home maintenance,” says Nowlin Roberts owner of Nowlin Roberts Salon in San Antonio and a L’Oréal Professionnel Portfolio Artist.

Streamlining product exposure is the approach at the Naz Kupelian salon. “At each station the guest sees only what the stylist has chosen for their session, so they have 40 minutes of hands on exposure to the products,” says Kupelian, a Rusk Team Member.

Teach Me

The DIY beauty ethos, now in vogue, has made women more conscious than ever of learning how to style their own hair. Most salons say they incorporate

styling lessons into their service and that their guests are more likely to buy products when a stylist has shown them the how-to’s of using them.

“A true service should include instruction for the client on how to achieve their look at home,” says Jesse Marcks, Goldwell Art Team Member. “Clients should be encouraged to work with the products and tools themselves. Putting the product in their hands helps a soft sell,” she adds.

Aveda Experience Center stores began offering lessons or ‘finishing rituals’ a year ago. “We’ve seen a huge increase overall in product sales,” says Catherine Culotta, Vice President Retail Sales, Aveda North America. Some salons make an evening out of teaching styling basics. On Blow-Out Nights at the Tantrum Salon in Covino California owner/stylist Robert Moreno treats top clients to styling lessons encouraging them to bring their own tools. Teaching heat protection gave Tantrum’s stylists the opportunity

An experience bar beckons to clients for a personal hands-on “try it, you’ll like it” approach. Knowledgeable staff is a must.

A neutral canvas for a minimalist style works well, as does a subliminal approach with products reflected in a mirror (left).

Reward My Loyalty

Client retention is earned. Rewarding guests with points for every dollar they spend in the salon helps increase retail explains George Gonzales. “Once a guest reaches a certain amount of points they receive a gift certificate to be used towards their next service or for retail,” he adds. “Our goal should be to make the guest’s experience feel like it was a great idea,” says Nowlin Roberts. “We want our guests to feel they have made a good choice in selecting our salon. The more she trusts that you will always recommend what is best for her, the more she wants to bring the salon experience home with her.”

Robert Cromeans Salon

Redken

Rusk

George the Salon

R E T A I L

to instruct their guests on the use of best sellers like Macadamia Nut Oil. “We serve wine and give the ladies goody bags filled with 2-oz samples of the products we sell in the salon to try at home,” says Moreno.

“We reassure our guests that if they have any concerns recreating the look themselves, we are happy to offer complimentary style coaching upon request. Of course the importance of using the right products is emphasised from the beginning, so the guest is mentally prepared to make the investment in products from the beginning, instead of depending on the last few minutes of contact to ‘make a sale’,” says Nowlin Roberts.

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Tanaz

Hair

Tall trees and lush surroundings create the setting for Tanaz Hair, Body and Nails salon. A haven where everything from your hair, nails and lunch can be done. Tanaz owners tell ESTETICA SA how they have ensured that their salon uses less energy and caters to a more varied clientele.

by Cindy Horton

E

ntrepreneur and highly skilled hairdresser Shelene Shaer and business man, Richard Wories, started Tanaz Hair Body and Nails 17 years ago. Ideally located on Corlette Drive, close to the exclusive Melrose Arch, Tanaz provides Johannesburg’s up and coming with a unique haven for escape, indulgence and respite. The word Tanaz is a Persian word that describes the essence of the soul and the essence of a woman. This ethos is something that is vividly encapsulated by the Tanaz Team.

How did you approach designing your salon and maximising your space?

We wanted a salon that extended luxury and space for the stylist and the client. We definitely didn’t want clients to feel as if they were sitting on top of each other. It was also important to create a ‘home away from home’ that was relaxed and not intimidating.

Since the inception of your salon, have you renovated and if so what was the purpose of the renovation?

Tanaz has moved once and has been renovated a few times. We circulate different areas every few years which keeps the building in good shape.

Describe the décor in your salon and how this contributes to the overall atmosphere?

The decor has a ‘home away from home’ feel, is very beautiful, colourful and relaxed. Reused and recycled pieces of furniture have been used throughout the salon. I (Shelene) am always trawling the junk shops to see what I can find to convert into something.

What type of chairs do you have at the backwash and styling stations and why did you select them?

The chairs at the backwash are motorised and allow us to raise the client’s legs while they are seated at the basins. The styling station chairs have been moulded for the clients back and there are no arms rests, so they are not restricted for space, and also gives the stylist optimal comfort when working. The backs of the chairs have also been designed at an optimal height for the client to relax and low enough for the stylist to cut close to the body.

I n t E r v i e w

Describe your reception area?

Our reception area is about to undergo a massive revamp and will become the reception and retail area.

It will be light and breezy with the focus on the retail.

The lighting will funk up the area and retail will add a splash of colour.

What colour scheme and lighting has been used throughout the salon?

One of the biggest decorative challenges when building a salon is the lighting. We started with down lights positioned in various strategic positions so shadows weren’t cast onto the clients while the stylists were cutting. Next, we had to be accurate when colouring our client’s hair and because we were in a mall we had very limited access to direct sunlight.

Based on a study we did, we decided to use cold cathode lighting instead of fluorescent lighting for the following reasons. We worked out that 750 fluorescent lights would consume 50 400 watts, whereby the cold cathode only consumes 14 490 watts, therefore saving 35 910 watts, which in return saves you approximately R78 600 in energy, approximately R81 374 in maintenance and a decrease in CO² emissions. For more info on this product you can go to www.neonsupplies.co.za

Does your salon have any unique design, layout, theme or décor features?

I (Shelene) would describe the décor as ‘French shabby chic’, with a focus on recycled décor items. In our sociable colour area we have converted a piano into a colour bar. A gorgeous French chandelier above a round table in the centre of the salon creates a focal point where clients can relax and work.

Where have you positioned the retail area and how is it displayed?

Currently our retail area is in the salon between the basins and area where stylists work. However, we will be moving the retail area into the reception as mentioned before.

Do you offer your clients additional services?

We also have a car wash business and sell kitka bread on a Friday which is very convenient for Tanaz’s large Jewish clientele. Tanaz also has a small coffee shop that sells sandwiches, tramezzinis, salads, etc. and a full beauty salon. Our clients can come in for a multitude of services and in return save time.

Any tips for salon owners embarking on designing or renovating their salon?

Create a space that you love being in, this means your clients will love it as well. Plan and present yourself with two options when deciding on design choices.

Sometimes we get stuck on an idea that might not necessarily work.

The gorgeous crystal chandelier is a main focal point in the salon and adds a very luxurious element to the space.

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Frank

Fowden

British hair stylist Frank Fowden frequently visited South African shores and eventually never left.

ESTETICA SA chats to Frank about conceptualising and designing his Mother City salon and the mistakes incurred along the way.

by Cindy Horton

F

rank Fowden was brought to South Africa, from London, on three occasions by L’Oréal Professionnel to conduct seminars around the country. In 1979 Frank re-located to Johannesburg and opened his first salon, Fowden and Bailey, in Rosebank. Frank opened his second salon in Cape Town at the V&A Waterfront which has become a landmark on the Cape Town styling map. Celebrities who have stepped in for colour or a cut in the past have included the Dutshess of York Sarah Ferguson, Colin Farrell and Michael Schumacher.

How did you approach designing your salon and maximising your space?

My architect Charles Coetzee and I first did the basic layout of the shop, and then we went to several top London salons to see the latest salon interiors. The Richard Ward Metro Spa had just opened and they were very helpful. Daniel Galvin had also just opened his new salon in George Street, which had amazing lighting. The salon has a unique circular design so that we could fully utilise the centre space and take advantage of every square metre.

Since the inception of your salon, have you renovated and if so what was the purpose of the renovation?

As the salon was only built three years ago, no renovations have been needed, only painting.

Describe the décor in your salon?

The circular walls are covered in grey imported wallpaper and mirror perspex wall paneling which makes the space look much bigger and reflects a great deal of light.

What type of chairs do you have at the backwash and styling stations?

The backwash basins and chairs are black and were supplied by Sharplines four years ago. However, they were re-covered last year. The salon chairs were bought from an office chair manufacturer 14 years ago and have also been re-covered since, half of them in black and half in silver. The black chairs we use for

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I N T E R V I E W

our tint clients and are adjustable. Since they have been re-upholstered they look brand new.

Describe your reception area?

The reception area is shared with our two manicuristâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and has seating for five people. We carry a very comprehensive range of retail goods which are displayed on glass shelves in the reception. The walls are decorated with large framed photographs of work I have done and awards I have won.

What colour scheme and lighting has been used throughout the salon?

The colours of the salon are grey and white. The main dressing areas have mirrors with tube lighting down each side to light the face from the front. The same strip lighting, used in medical operating theatres, has been used throughout the salon because it is the closest to natural light; a great tip from Daniel Galvin.

Does your salon have any unique design, layout, theme or decor features?

I prefer to keep colouring and styling separate, therefore we have a separate tinting area with five stations.

Where have you positioned the retail area and how is it displayed?

Retail products are situated in the reception area and in the window, and forms part of the salon dĂŠcor.

Do you offer your clients additional services?

We offer clients hand and foot massages and all of our staff are trained in Indian head massage.

What perks do clients receive while in your salon?

Clients receive tea or coffee and free Wifi while in the salon.

Any tips for salon owners embarking on designing or renovating their salon?

Make sure you go over your plans thoroughly. Even experienced designers make mistakes. It is a good idea to mark the position of the salon basins and dressing stations on the floor in chalk before tiling. We made the mistake of positioning the lights in the ceiling without taking into account where the client would be sitting while in the chairs and all the lighting had to be moved. The basins were set on a curve and when the clients legs were stretched out there was no room to move between. We had to reposition the plumbing and the basins.

The salons circular design and mirror perspex wall paneling gives the illusion that the salon is a lot larger than it really is.

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 101

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2012/08/20 12:28 PM

Carlton

Hair

Renowned hairstylist, David Gillson, offers advice on designing a salon, choosing timeless décor and creating unique features within your space.

by Cindy Horton

D

avid Gillson is a popular celebrity hairdresser who has styled guests and presenters on TV talk shows and reality programs such as Big Brother, as well as South Africa’s top models for the Johannesburg Fashion Week. He was awarded the SA Style awards for two years in succession, and was elected as judge for the Style Awards, Marie Claire Prix de Excellence Awards as well as the Fairlady Best of Beauty Awards. Apart from travelling around the world to attend industry events, he is a master stylist, director and shareholder of the Carlton Hair International salons in Hyde Park and Melrose Arch in Johannesburg.

How did you approach designing your salon and maximising your space?

When designing the salons we identified comfort as the key element to the space. Comfort for clients and staff. We also used classic lines which don’t date, to keep the salons looking timeless.

Since the inception of your salon, have you renovated and if so what was the purpose of the renovation?

We opened Carlton Hair in Hyde Park (super salon) nine years ago and have since renovated five times.

We needed to do this to expand and create more space as we grew. The Melrose Arch salon (boutique salon) is only two years old and no renovations have been done yet. Although the salons are different, Hyde Park is a super salon while Melrose is a boutique salon, they both have the same Carlton Hair identity which resonates as soon as you see the spaces.

Describe the décor in your salon and how this contributes to the overall atmosphere?

The décor is simplistic and the vibe in the salon is bustling and alive, so it balances really nicely. Our space is very clean and contemporary.

What type of chairs do you have at the backwash and styling stations and why did you select them?

Tokara Belmont chairs have been used, an elegant Japanese brand. They really suit the salon space and offer comfort.

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I N T E R V I E W

Describe your reception area?

The reception area is neat and is the hub for our retail area. The look of the front reception area centres around our product range, Davines, which is organic and simplistic. We have combined nature, wood and our products in a simple space.

What colour scheme and lighting has been used throughout the salon?

A flattering colour scheme has been used in Hyde Park. We have added in some red walls for a pop of colour. In Melrose Arch we have an amazing designer lighting feature.

Do your salons have any unique design, layout, theme or décor features?

Yes, in Hyde Park we have what we describe as ‘zones’. We have a bar, a full Italian coffee area, pedicure area, etc. At Melrose Arch we have a hair treatment bed which is very unique.

Where have you positioned the retail area and how is it displayed?

Our retail area is in the front of the store. Carlton Hair is not ‘retail heavy’ and our brand is very simplistic. We keep it clean, beautiful and simple.

Do you offer your clients additional services?

Both salons have a beauty room where clients can have facials and their nails done. The Hyde Park branch also offers threading and eye lash extensions.

What perks do clients receive while in your salon?

Our clients have access to a full Italian coffee bar, the latest magazines and fab music.

Any tips for salon owners embarking on designing or renovating their salon?

When designing your salon, keep it simple so that it doesn’t date. This is the key! You need to be able to love the look of your salon forever and ensure that you aren’t renovating every year unnecessarily.

Classic lines were used in the design of the salons to keep it looking timeless. Simple and modern décor complements the structured space.

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 1 03

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2012/08/16 4:10 PM

S

ometimes we get so caught up in the creativity, glamour and excitement of hair fashion and the colourful personalities in the industry, that we tend to neglect keeping updated on the basic tools of the trade: blow-dryers, curling and smoothing irons, and even ‘plain’ old combs, brushes and shears. Today, research has lead to myriad new hi-tech materials and technologies that can only make life easier for the hair fashion industry, more comfortable for clients, and healthier for hair. What are the pros’ favorites and why? For which styles and hair types do they work best?

ESTETICA went to some of the best in the business to ask them which tools they would never leave home without. Here are some of their suggestions.

Tooling

Around Dad always said, “A workman is only as good as his tools,” and with modern materials and technologies, today’s cutting and styling tools are making hairdressers better than ever.

SHERRI JESSEE, RUSK CREATIVE TEAM AND EDUCATOR

The Babyliss Volare V2 dryer is my favorite blow dryer of all time, barring none. It comes packed complete with your choice of 2 concentrator nozzles and a snap on diffuser, plus it is specially constructed for maximum airflow, minimum weight, and reduced vibration, making it my go-to dryer to get the job done for both long days in the salon and work on the main stages of international hair shows. Thanks to its super power and high performance, it is a luxury dryer perfect for all hair types! Whether I am stretching, curling, building body, or simply rough drying... this amazing dryer helps reduce my work load while increasing the quality of my results. I prefer to use this dryer with the proper finishing products to achieve long lasting, shiny results more efficiently.

by Marie Scarano

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s u r v e y

linkoniPad FRANK BARBOSA, CELEBRITY STYLIST/ COLOURIST

Conair

Paul Mitchell

Farouk

I actually have two favourites, depending on the effects I’m looking for. My favourite iron is the CHI Digital Orbit Iron, while my favourite dryer is the CHI Rocket Dryer. What makes the CHI Orbit special is its hot wand that benefits from digital technology for increased heat control. The CHI Rocket Dryer is outstanding because it is light weight, offers great balance, and gets really hot and ionic, so it doesn’t blow the hair everywhere. I use the CHI orbit to create waves and curls very quickly. The CHI Rocket dryer is great for creating much smoother hairstyles with absolutely no frizz. These tools work great paired with Farouk Royal Treatment Pearl Complex and Farouk Royal Treatment Rapid Shine for a really finished look.

Modern blowdryers have become increasingly lighter and sleeker but are nonetheless more powerful.

Izunami

Among my favourite styling tools is the Izunami ITC 450 flat iron, because it has made such an incredible difference in my work. Less is more when it comes to reps and temps, so hair is healthier and shinier with less heat and fewer passes of the iron.

Plus, the Izunami ITC 450 iron is hot spot free! The special tourmaline-infused ceramic plates ensure

ROCKY VITELLI, FAROUK CREATIVE ARTIST

Sam Villa

MOHAMMAD RAHEBI, TOP STYLIST AT IDENTITY SALON IN ENCINO, CA

effortless gliding and a healthy shiny finish, heating up in 30 seconds or less. I always rely on this iron and the Izunami’s G6 Hairdryer for perfect blowouts, especially for African American hair, which requires special care because it is easier to damage the cuticles. Instead, the tourmaline crystals in this dryer create the strongest negative ionic bonds to seal the cuticle against heat, wear, and tear while naturally locking in healthy moisture.

Parlux

The first on my list of favourites is the Sam Villa blow dryer, while in second place are the Sam Villa Brushes, especially the round ones, of which I own 2 sets. The Sam Villa blow dryer allows me to blow dry all day long for great finish work without the excess weight and wrist fatigue associated with conventional dryers. I am on the go mostly as a freelance stylist as well as in my salon, this dryer fits right into my bag or tool drawer with no trouble. For smoothing, the size is a big plus because I can get right up to the root and smooth without the bulkiness of other dryers. The brushes also come in handy for the new European blow outs, which are becoming all the rage at my salon in Newport, Rhode Island. Seeing as I specialise in this blow out in the salon and have taken it over to the film world, I usually use my favourite styling products, like smoothing lotions and balms with this technique. My favourite at the moment is Rene Furterer Defrisant Gel.

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 1 05

NICK CLARETTA, OWNER OF CIARLETTA HAIR, SHELBYVILLE, IN

Adam Raymond, Stylist at patrick mcivor color studio

Your Colourist’s Favorite Brush is my personal favourite because of the tourmaline in the pins of the brush and the eye catching red colour of the brush, so I never lose track of it when I’m working. It’s a perfect weight and balance, and the tourmaline in the pins make the hair smooth. I find this brush great to use before cutting, when I want to brush someone’s hair out. Instead, when I want to do finishing, it’s especially great for long straight hair. I find that a great combination is Matrix Sleek Lisse along with just a little of Matrix Design Pulse Loosely Defined Texture Creme. That’s my favourite ‘cocktail’ for perfect straight hair!

Angus Mitchell, Co-owner of JPMS & Artistic Director of Education

My favourite tool is the Paul Mitchell Express Ion Dry TurboLight.

The special feature of this dryer is the Paul Mitchell’s Express Ion Complex, which is a blend of volcanic minerals that naturally deliver conditioning negative ions and infrared heat. Hair is left shiny, smooth and moisturised in less time.

Conair

Farouk

Conair

Izunami

PMS

Curling iron and rod temperatures are now easier to control and hi-tech ceramic plates also help protect hair from heat damage.

Sam Villa

My favourite Cricket tools are the Cricket Titanium Ion 450 1” Flat iron and the AmpedUp Teasing Brush, and of course, Cricket V2 Shears.

The Titanium Ion 450 Iron is lightweight and comfortable. It heats up to 450 degrees quickly and the heat adjusts for all hair types. The Titanium plates glide through the hair leaving the hair with a healthy look, great shine, and frizz free. The multilevel bristle system of the brush makes it easy to style and create texture while minimising damage. The brush itself fits comfortably in any size hand and has a sectioning tip that easily allows separation and texture variation. The 450 Titanium Ion Iron can be used on all hair types – it can be used to add lift all over, create a straight look, to curl hair under or make tight curls.

Such versatility also allows me to create many looks for a single style with one tool. The AmpedUp Teasing brush helps to create volume on all hair types with the iron to create more lift in the crown area. Cricket shears are in stainless steel for excellent durability and the revolving thumb hole makes them the most comfortable shears around, easily adjusting to any position. The cut-away design of the V2 Power Step Blades™ make for perfect balance to narrow and taper for just the look you want. I use sprays, gels, mousse, iron sprays, and a multitude of fixatives with both tools.

Cricket

Cricket McIvor

It’s perfect for every hair type and length. It’s also light-weight and easy to handle, so I can better dry hair from the inside out, leaving hair more hydrated and healthier. The ionic particles baked into the heat shield and nozzle micronise water molecules so they can penetrate the hair shaft and keep hair soft and bouncy.

When I combine it with Paul Mitchell Quick Slip, it delivers the proper heat and airflow required to create a fast shine and style. It doesn’t matter if you are using Paul Mitchell Super Skinny for that irresistible straight and shiny look or looking to boost volume with our Paul Mitchell Extra-Body products, I recommend this dryer to everyone.

Macadamia

s u r v e y

Fulvio Furcas, Celebrity Stylist, Sesto San Giovanni, Italy

I have been a hairdresser for 28 years and I began using Parlux professional products from the beginning. Among all the ones I have tried up to now, I can say that the 3800 blow dryer, based on carefully researched technology, is the best dryer for any type of hair in order to get the optimal results.

Now Parlux has added the Silencer, so in my salon we have been able to combine professionalism while reducing noise, making it much more relaxing for our clientele. Whenever you use a blow dryer for many hours a day, you really want a product that has a powerful motor and a long life span. In addition to these two characteristics, the Parlux 3800 is extremely lightweight, allowing me to work without getting tired, also thanks to the ergonomic grip and its balance. The ceramics and the negative ions also help make hair softer and shinier. When you work with a good professional product, it makes it easier to create any type of style you want. Personally, I like working with the Parlux 3800 on long hair, as I find it is fantastic in allowing me to dry hair quickly because it is so powerful. As I often work on fashion shows and photoshoots, where time is always at a premium, I can always give hair great texture in a short time, thanks to its great performance. I think the Parlux 3800 is an excellent tool to work with, but in the end it is the hairdresser’s personal skill that keeps customers coming back. The styling products I rely on during drying are smoothing products to create soft

styles and mousse to define curls and add volume.

Personally however, I prefer a blow dryer that enables me to polish colour and enhance the cut with the right volume.

Liana Galstyan, Paparazzi Hair Studio, Sherman Oaks, California

One of my favourites is the Macadamia Natural Oil Boar Bristle Round Brush.

The 100% boar bristles smooth out the hair surface and create a shiny frizz-free surface. The brush itself is lightweight and has a great grip to blow dry. The ceramic base retains heat so it makes the brush versatile by creating volume at the roots and then creating a smooth flat surface toward the ends. There is no need for extra hot tools to create the end effect. This brush had a bigger barrel so it was great for working with longer hair. The design of the brush makes it easy to have control. It is perfect for smoothing and polishing curly and frizzy hair. I like to use it with the Macadamia Natural Oil Healing Oil Treatment. The oil gives extra slip when working with longer hair and is perfectly distributed throughout the hair with the boar bristles.

Using the two together increases shine and beautiful results.

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 1 07

A D V E R T O R I A L

deciding to go ahead with a salon revamp, or What to When even opening a new salon, there are many factors take into account, especially choosing the right consider tofurniture. furniture should be modern and trendy to keep when buying The your salon ahead of the times. However, a decision be based solely on these factors. There are furniture for your cannot other extremely important aspects to take into salon. account.

Sharplines offers their top seven tips to consider when buying furniture for your salon: 1. Always compare price vs quality. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s better to

spend a little extra to make it last that bit longer.

2. It is very important to always use a

professional service agent when installing

wash units, etc.

3. The service agent must always only use the

parts supplied and never his own parts as this

could interfere with the warranty.

4. Look at colour and design vs practicality.

White is not a great decision for a colour

section as it stains easily. If you are going to

buy white, make sure it is protected.

5. Always ask about the warranty and the

specifics of that warranty.

6. When looking at hydraulic vs gaslift chairs,

remember that hydraulic is better in the

long-term as it lasts longer.

7. Remember to cater for your specific clientele

in the design of your salon and the comfort of

the furniture purchased is always extremely important.

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E V E N T S

Masked

launch

Hairdressers and industry leaders attended the very first Nisim launch for the ‘unmasking’ of their new sulphate-free shampoo.

O

n the 20th May 2012, Nisim South Africa held their first industry launch at FTV Cafe in Cedar Square, Fourways Johannesburg.

Nisim Hair and Beauty Products cc is a distributor for several hair products, providing products such as Nisim, Kalo, Provilus and FAST. Nisim is manufactured in Canada and has been available in South Africa for seven years, and is in more than 600 salons countrywide.

Guests were greeted with a product gift and treated to champagne and snacks before being welcomed by Managing Director Raphael Tome and his team. Tying in with the theme of the night, all Nisim team members wore elaborate masks decorated with sequins, feathers and glitter.

During the introduction an African rumba was performed, followed by an African prayer being said, blessing Nisim’s future success.

The event, which was attended by Paul Fox from the Paul James Group, Francos and The

Hairdresser group, as well as many local hair stylists, salon owners and members of the public, was aimed at unveiling Nisim’s new sulphate-free shampoo.

The sulphate-free shampoo utilises the same active ingredients and provides the same benefits as the original New Hair Biofactors shampoo and works just as well to cleanse and neutralise DHT. However, it is now safe to use on colour treated hair or hair that has received treatments that require sulphate-free products to be used.

The launch was also attended by representatives from CANSA, who explained their mutually beneficial relationship with Nisim and Glambox who generously gave five people in the audience Glamboxes, filled with beauty goodies.

After all the formalities were over, guests continued the party vibe; some even got groovy on the dance floor.

Photos: Andrew H Williams

Nisim South Africa wore elaborate masks at the event. The launch was also attended by representatives from cansa and Glambox.

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 1 09

Styling

Champs Hairdressers, apprentices and students competed against each other for coveted titles at the annual Western Province Hair Championships. The local talent presented inspirational hair styles and dynamic looks.

O

ver 2 000 hairdressers from all corners, salons and studios in the Western Cape gathered at the Grand West Casino Market Hall on Sunday 3 June for the annual Western Province Hair Championships in association with Beauty Fantasia. The event was hosted by the Employers Organisation for Hair, Beauty and Cosmetology (EOHCB) and celebrated its 50th year running.

The Hairdressing sections were extremely well supported in the Learner and Senior sections and produced fantastic work.

Reto Camichel, owner of Reto Style Lounge in Westlake Lifestyle Centre, Cape Town, together with Frika Hair, presented a spectacular Ethnic stage presentation that wowed the audience with inspirational styles and creativity.

Colleges and suppliers exhibited their products and services at the event which created a great opportunity for guests to familiarise themselves with new companies and technology.

Sponsors for the event included, ghd, who provided the venue and prizes, Hands Down Distributors, Wella, Motions, Goldwell, Twincare, Softsheen Carsons, Joico, ESTETICA SA Magazine and Hairdressers Journal.

The first, second, third and fourth place winners received amazing prizes such as ghd stylers, brush sets and hampers as well as gorgeous trophies. â&#x20AC;&#x153;A big thank you to all our sponsors, without them this event would not have been possible. It is always rewarding to have such close relationships with the people who represent the professional brands in the hairdressing industry,â&#x20AC;? said Ezra Isaacs, Vice President Intercoiffure and Fashion Director, Cape Town. She also said that they were honoured to have ESTETICA representatives present on the day.

ESTETICA would like to congratulate everyone who took part in the event and the talented winners.

E V E N T

Results: Section 1: Ladies youth under 25 years, Cut and blow dry 1. Roscoe Cupido, Carlton Hair 2. Kyle Woollam, Carlton Hair Academy 3. Liezel Sasman, Synergy Hair 4. Peter Claasen, Salon Catwalk Section 2: Men’s senior, Finger dry on long hair 1. Nqobile Skosana, Regis Fairlady 2. Aubrey Louw, Hair Prominence 3. Verashca Prinslo, Prominence Hair 4. Lynn de Mink, Coiffure Ezra Section 3: Men’s youth under 25 years, Finger dry on long hair 1. Peter Claasen, Salon Catwalk 2. Linda Jordaan, Pzazz 3. Shané Fouché, Carlton Bayside 4. Elmarize van Dyk, Platinum Hair & Beauty Section 4: Ladies open front cover, Long hair down 1. Verashca Prinsloo, Prominence Hair 2. Cherné Ebrahams, Exclusive Look 3. Victoria Engelbrecht, Knots Salon 4. Muhammed Latief, Carlton Cavendish Section 5: Apprentice, first year students, Free expression blow dry 1. Lauren Gelderbloem, Coiffure Ezra 2. Jaydeen Cedras, Northlink College 3. Melissa Smith, Carlton Hair Canal Walk 4. Tanya Beginsel, Carlton Bayside Section 6: Open Ladies, Ethnic cut and style, Freedom of expression 1. Aubrey Louw, Hair Prominence 2. Lucretia Philander, Motions 3. John Muganguzi, Mistro Hair Neatness 4. Yasseen Galant, Motions Section 7: Ladies youth under 25 years, Wedding youth artistry 1. Robyn Benjamin, College of Cape Town 2. Sandy Lee Paulsen, Coiffure Ezra 3. Linda Jordaan, Pzazz 4. Dianne Kensley, Carlton Hair

Photos: Ingrid Owen Photography

Section 8: Men’s open, Cut and blow dry 1. Ariana Brown, Regis Fairlady 2. Aubrey Louw, Hair Prominence 3. Nqobile Skosana, Regis Fairlady 4. Muhummed Latief, Carlton Cavendish Section 9: Ladies open, Front cover, Long hair up 1. Ariana Brown, Regis Fairlady 2. Nqobile Skosana, Regis Fairlady 3. John Muganguzi, Mistro Hair Neatness 4. Cherné Abrahams, Exclusive Look Section 10: Men’s youth, under 25 years, Cut and blow dry 1. Shané Fouché, Carlton Bayside 2. Linda Jordaan, Pzazz 3. Elmarize van Dyk, Platinim Hair & Beauty 4. Peter Claasen, Salon Catwalk Section 11: Men’s open, Ethnic, Freedom of expression 1. John Muganguzi, Mistro Hair Neatness 2. Aubrey Louw, Hair Prominence 3. Peter Claasen, Salon Catwalk 4. Brandon Sais, Motions Overall winners: Youth: Peter Claasen, Salon Catwalk Senior: Nqobile Skosana, Regis Fairlady E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 111

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2012/08/20 10:30 AM

Reality

shoots

Editorial artists are experimenting with new spins for their work, abandoning studios to capture a moment in the life of an individual or an urban tribe in a natural habitat.

by Marie Scarano

Barrio Fashionistas, Semper Fidelis, Urban Intimacy.

Three different realities.

S

ure it’s about the hair, but it’s all taken one step further. Fashion beyond the catwalk.

The photographer as a documentarist.

Addam Moreno, Joico Colour Specialist and Guest Artist, envisioned such a shoot in the Barrio Viejo of Tucson, Arizona, where emerging artists tend to gather. The models were friends who were allowed to choose their own wardrobes for an authentically eclectic Barrio look. Hair was wet set and dried before being tweaked with Joico’s Design Collection.

As the night-time shoot progressed, it became more of a time-lapse documentary, allowing him to capture “the camaraderie and closeness of a backyard night party and the final debauchery of a massive puppy pile in the wee hours,” chronicling these fashionistas during an evening out. For his ‘Semper Fidelis’ collection, Michael Marenco captures the masculine virility of the down’n’dirty rock’n’roll image of HarleyDavidson across global and ethnic realities. Initial obstacles included finding real men (not professional models) of different nationalities and a photographer capable of sharing his vision. Then TIGI Rockaholic and Bed Head products for Men helped him break away from “hair pictures where images are 2D, either frontal or profile”.

Lucie Doughty, Editorial Director for Paul Mitchell, takes a more voyeuristic journey into intimacy, choosing B&W photography to portray a day in the life of a single girl and the looks that reflect her mood and moment, from jeans to grungy black dress to at-home lingerie. Her beachy, long blonde hair is perfection for her young fresh-faced good looks, as is her casual chignon for chilling out in solitude.

As Joico’s Moreno observed, “There are subcultures in every area that could be shot like this... You just need to know where to look.”

F O C U S

Hair: Addam Moreno, Joico Guest Artist Photo: Ryan Mihalyi Styling: Amber Mortensen

Creative Direction/Hair: Michel Marenco Photo: nastymoon/Make-up: Juliette Chupin/Styling: Gillian Phelan Products: TIGI Rockaholic and Bed Head for Men Venue: ATS Harley-Davidson Paris-France

Real life â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;modelsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, non-studio settings, and minimalist lighting give editorial work a new edge. Out-of-the-box shoots.

Hair: Lucie Doughty Editorial Director: Paul Mitchell Make-up: Anthony Merante for MAC Wardrobe: Leilani Lacson Photographer: Arnaud Korenke

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 113

preview MONTHbyMONTH

Biosense Collections

Durban 8 October Biofactor Competition Finals

Johannesburg 10 September Ace Quest Finals

Johannesburg 16 September

Joico Executive Color Correction

Cape Town 3 September and 15 October Master the Grey, Bombshell Blondes and Rocking Reds

Cape Town 10 September and 29 October Fundamental Color

Cape Town 1 October Trend

Cape Town 8 October Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Grooming

Johannesburg 22 October, Cape Town 12 November Operator Pro

Cape Town 5 November

Paul Mitchell Inspirational Hands-on Cutting Workshop

Johannesburg 10 September and 15 October Wash House Etiquette (Operators)

Johannesburg 22 October Hairstylist of the Year

Johannesburg 25 November

Redken Haircolor Principles & New Chromatics Ammonia-free Permanent Color

Bloemfontein, East London and Port Elizabeth 3 September and 19 October Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 10 September Lightening Collection and Foil Placement

Bloemfontein, East London and Port Elizabeth 4 Septemer Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 11 September Color Correction

Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 17 September Intra Force Collection

Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 18 September and 9 October

preview MONTHbyMONTH

A G E N D A

Redken for Men Collection

Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 8 October Shades EQ Collection

Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 8 October Styling Collection

Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 9 October Redken Specialist, Bloemfontein

East London and Port Elizabeth 15-17 October Pureology Pure Discovery

Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 22 October Pureology Pure Profit

Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 22 October Haircare Collection

Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 12 November Styling Collection

Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town 12 November Redken Specialist Exam

Bloemfontein, East London and Port Elizabeth 13 November New Chromatics Color Generation Collection

Bloemfontein, East London and Port Elizabeth 20 October

Tigi Colour Workshop

Johannesburg 8 and 9 October Cape Town 15 and 16 October Durban 22 and 23 October Port Elizabeth 29 and 30 October

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 115

Fairs, events September and shows 8-11 Beauty Fair of high prestige: 10-12 Cosmeeting Paris an overview 16 of the most Haute Coiffure Française highly anticipa­ 22-24 ted and creative Beauty Salon Dimensions opportunities 23-24 MCB in our agenda.

São Paulo (Brazil) www.beautyfair.com.br

Paris (France) www.beyondbeautyparis.com

Paris (France) www.haute-coiffure.com

Utrecht (The Netherlands) www.beautysalondimensions.nl

Paris (France) www.salonmcb.com

28-30 Salon Look International Madrid (Spain) www.salonlook.ifema.es

REPORT

29-31 May Beautyworld Middle East Dubai - www.beautyworldme.com

With a venue as beautiful and aweinspiring as the Dubai International Convention and Exhibition Centre, it’s inevitable that Beautyworld Middle East is destined to grow from strength to strength. For the 2012 edition, the fair recorded a 20 percent increase, with 829 exhibitors representing 50 nations worldwide. “We exceeded our expectations - we closed this edition with a notable increase in the number of visitors and new requests on an international level: signals of how the fair is becoming a reference point for the beauty sector in our country,” commented Ahmed Pauwels, CEO of Epoc Messe Frankfurt, the organiser of the event. The fair has focused its attention on two trends capable of boosting the beauty sector: natural and organic products, the sales of which have increased 20 percent in the Middle East, and men’s lines.

NEXT

6-8 October InterCharm Milano Milan – www.intercharm.it

In its third year, Reed Exhibitions, organisers of InterCharm Milano, have increased its floorspace and adds to its list of special events. International attention is ensured for Organisa­tion Mondiale de la Coiffure’s Hairworld 2012 and the International School Championship. Other shows will feature world renowned platform artists. Don’t miss the Italian finals of the Hair Show & Trend Vision Award by Wella Professionals and the Hair Spotlight. InterCharm Milano will be playing host to all the beauty sectors: Perfumery&Cosmetics, Beauty Salon, Nail, Hair, Packaging. Visitors can now also benefit from online pre-registration, which allows visitors to save money on the ticket price. They can then decide if they wish to complete the purchase at the event’s desk, or buy their ticket online with an additional discount and avoid the queue on arrival. .

October 6-8 InterCharm Milano Milan (Italy) www.intercharm.it

6-8 Hairworld World Cup Milan (Italy) www.omchairworld.com

12-16 Color Zoom Global Event London (UK) www.colorzoom12.com

A G E N D A

Fairs, events September and shows 8-11 Beauty Fair of high prestige: 10-12 Cosmeeting Paris an overview 16 of the most Haute Coiffure Française highly anticipa­ 22-24 ted and creative Beauty Salon Dimensions opportunities 23-24 MCB in our agenda.

São Paulo (Brazil) www.beautyfair.com.br

Paris (France) www.beyondbeautyparis.com

Paris (France) www.haute-coiffure.com

Utrecht (The Netherlands) www.beautysalondimensions.nl

Paris (France) www.salonmcb.com

28-30 Salon Look International Madrid (Spain) www.salonlook.ifema.es

REPORT

29-31 May Beautyworld Middle East Dubai - www.beautyworldme.com

With a venue as beautiful and aweinspiring as the Dubai International Convention and Exhibition Centre, it’s inevitable that Beautyworld Middle East is destined to grow from strength to strength. For the 2012 edition, the fair recorded a 20 percent increase, with 829 exhibitors representing 50 nations worldwide. “We exceeded our expectations - we closed this edition with a notable increase in the number of visitors and new requests on an international level: signals of how the fair is becoming a reference point for the beauty sector in our country,” commented Ahmed Pauwels, CEO of Epoc Messe Frankfurt, the organiser of the event. The fair has focused its attention on two trends capable of boosting the beauty sector: natural and organic products, the sales of which have increased 20 percent in the Middle East, and men’s lines.

NEXT

6-8 October InterCharm Milano Milan – www.intercharm.it

In its third year, Reed Exhibitions, organisers of InterCharm Milano, have increased its floorspace and adds to its list of special events. International attention is ensured for Organisa­tion Mondiale de la Coiffure’s Hairworld 2012 and the International School Championship. Other shows will feature world renowned platform artists. Don’t miss the Italian finals of the Hair Show & Trend Vision Award by Wella Professionals and the Hair Spotlight. InterCharm Milano will be playing host to all the beauty sectors: Perfumery&Cosmetics, Beauty Salon, Nail, Hair, Packaging. Visitors can now also benefit from online pre-registration, which allows visitors to save money on the ticket price. They can then decide if they wish to complete the purchase at the event’s desk, or buy their ticket online with an additional discount and avoid the queue on arrival. .

October 6-8 InterCharm Milano Milan (Italy) www.intercharm.it

6-8 Hairworld World Cup Milan (Italy) www.omchairworld.com

12-16 Color Zoom Global Event London (UK) www.colorzoom12.com

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 117

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E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 119

Pink hair shows you care

Show your support for Breast Cancer awareness in October by wearing Great Lengths 100 percent natural human hair Pink extensions. Great Lengths, in conjunction with the Cancer Association of South Africa (CANSA), is donating the profit from the sales of their pink hair extensions for the month of October. Show your support by adding some pink. Visit one of over 250 Great Lengths partner salons countrywide to have your Pink Extensions installed for R100. It takes less than five minutes, can stay in your hair for up to two months and is easily removed. Join brand ambassadors Cindy Nell Roberts, Angela Kilian, Zizo Beda and Melinda Bam who have shown their support for this worthy cause.

Bejewelled eyebrows

Chanel displayed gorgeously smooth skin and bejewelled eyebrows at the Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 show.

Peter Philips Creative Director of Chanel Makeup explains that the inspiration for the make-up look came from a few key words and a sketch that Karl Lagerfeld provided: minerals, shading and eyebrows were the key words and the sketch showed a face with stone-lined eyebrows. “So the focus is on the eyebrows, which led me to interpret Karl’s drawing and the ‘mineral’ emphasis by creating straight, graphic eyebrows. I worked with the Maison Lesage to create sets of embroidered eyebrows. Each eyebrow consists of an anthracite gray sequins and pearl base, embroidered with several sorts and shades of mineral stones and crystals. For the nails I chose the new shade of Le Vernis called Frenzy.”

Flamboyage flair

On Tuesday 10 July, Carlton Hair International’s Head Office in Johannesburg saw 120 stylists, industry professionals and celebrities such as Tamara Dey, an avid Flamboyage supporter, coming together for an evening of inspirational hair styling presented by David Gillson. Flamboyage is a new colouring tool which is taking the industry by storm; allowing far more versatility than conventional highlighting. People are embracing their roots and want a more natural look.

However pastel colours are also a massive trend for 2012 and the Flamboyage Meche technique allows you to create natural accents of colour. The Flamboyage evening was aimed at taking stylists to the next level - showing them how versatile the technique is and getting them into the new universal language of Flamboyage. David Gillson and his amazing assistants demonstrated the different methods using the Flamboyage technique, showcasing tones of copper to intense emeralds.

N E W S

Pink Drive

Prana Vital Life is proud supporters of the Pink Drive. With every purchase made on any of the Giovanni D:Tox System Facial and Body Care products, R1 will be donated to the Pink Drive. Fast becoming one of South Africa’s best-loved community initiatives, the Pink Drive currently runs two ‘Pink’ mobile breast check units – one in Gauteng and one in the Western Cape. The educational unit travels to semi-urban and rural community areas around Gauteng with the aim of enabling various disadvantaged communities access to clinical breast examinations and breast health education performed by nurses. Pink Drive services 87 community health clinics on a rotation basis. The mobile mammography unit operates at local Community Health Clinics in the Western Cape and is aligned to the Tygerberg Hospital where free mammograms are offered. The support from initiatives like this one from Giovanni’s enables them to receive the much needed funds to ensure they keep on moving.

ghd announces partnership with singing sensation ChianoSky

ghd South Africa is proud to announce its 12 month partnership with up and coming star, ChianoSky. The 19-year old has grabbed the attention of many with her jazzy beats and soulful, yet playful, lyrics in ‘Sick Sick’ and ‘Walking Away’. She is about to release her highly anticipated full-length debut album ‘Hungry’. ChianoSky, real name ChianoSky Kruger, is also well known for her striking beauty and her rare talent of both writing and performing great music. “As a performer you need to always make sure you are on-trend when it comes to your appearance, so I’m really excited to work with ghd. I’ve been a huge fan of the brand for years and love using the products in the Style range as well as the ghd Gold styler!” said ChianoSky. Landi le Roux, ghd South Africa’s Marketing Manager adds: “We were introduced to ChianoSky in 2011 and we’re ecstatic that we have formalised a relationship with her. Her style resonates with our brand, and we’re looking forward to creating amazing looks for her performances and keeping her hair looking salon styled as she goes about her day-to-day activities.”

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 1 21

Tom Bachik – L’Oréal Paris worldwide nail artist

L’Oréal Paris announced the arrival of the brands first nail artist, Tom Bachik. A native of Southern California with a degree in graphic design, Tom sees nail art as similar to the world of couture. No matter whether he’s doing an amazingly elegant, timelessly classic manicure to sculpting imprints of a python on a woman’s nails or creating stunningly daring, innovative styles, Tom is revolutionising the world of nail art with his ever more original, surprising and glamorous creations. With his astonishing sense of detail, his work is priceless and he is a roaring success. Tom is now a member of the L’Oréal Paris family, where he joins John Nollet, Christophe Robin, Orrea Light, Joelle Ciocco, Karim Rahman, Billy B and Stéphane Lancien.

Styling the games

For the London 2012 Olympic Games, hairdressers from Wella salons formed an elite team of colour and style specialists this summer. Top hairdressers from around the world traveled to London to create beauty at the games.

This service, was run by Worldwide Olympic Partner P&G, and offered hair, beauty and grooming treatments to an international contingent of athletes, their families and the media who attended the Olympic Games. The salon was based at one of Wella Professionals’ global Wella Studios on Mortimer Street in Central London. An estimated 25 000 treatments from Wella Professionals, Sassoon Professional, Sebastian and Nioxin were given throughout the games to honour the athletes’ mothers as the true heroes of the Olympic Games who helped their children to their success.

Goldwell Color Zoom 2012

A new trend, a new Color Zoom Challenge and a new opportunity: each year Goldwell is looking for the most creative hair colourists and trend stylists. This year’s challenge was to interpret the latest FasciNature trend. Congratulations to national stylist Christilene Erasmus, winner of the Global Creative Colourist category and Donne Richter, winner of the New Talent category. Both stylists are from Head Candy Hair Studio in Port Elizabeth and will travel to London to attend the international Grand Finale in October 2012. International winners will work with Goldwell to create the next Color Zoom Collection.

122| E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A

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Chroma Captive The renovated and improved Chroma Captive product range from KerastasĂŠ, has the benefits of the Chroma Capture technology, with a patented new colour locking molecule, Zinc Gluconate. The new Zinc Gluconate molecule locks the colour molecules inside the hair fiber, making the colour â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;holdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; longer. The range consists of three products: the Bain colour protecting and enhancing shampoo, Fondant shine intensifying care and the shine intensifying Masque. The products are infused with repairing Linseed oil and UV filter, and Vitamin E to protect the shade from all oxidative aggressions.

Voyager Stand Dryer The innovative direct-air distribution system of the Voyager Stand Dryer allows the air to flow from the top and the sides. Plus a new bell design allows a partial recycle to redirect the air flow to the inside and uses it to speed up the job performed. The air arrives evenly without losing its strength and temperature, and prevents the vapour from disturbing the customer.

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P R O D U C T S

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NATURALTECH NOURISHING SHAMPOO AND VEGETARIAN MIRACLE CONDITIONER The Nourishing range from Davines has been specifically formulated to revitalise and fortify dry, brittle and damaged hair, while caring for the well-being of the scalp. The formulas contain phytoceuticals extracted from grapes, rich in polyphenols and with extraordinary antioxidant power. The fragrance contains mandarin, petit grain and ylang ylang essential oils for a nourishing action. The Shampoo’s creamy texture produces a rich foam, while the mixture of gentle surfactants gently washes the hair structure. The Vegetarian Miracle Conditioner’s formula has been enriched with rice, Açai and Passiflora oils that have a conditioning action and protects the hair.

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WAHL BELISSIMA The Wahl Bellissima cordless and rechargeable professional hair clipper has a powerful and quiet motor, and is ideal for all clipper work. The rustresistant chrome plated blades conveniently snap on and off, and have a variable taper adjustment.

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 125

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ESTETICA INTERNATIONAL NETWORK Advertising broker PUBLIMATIC s.r.l.

Estetica Turkey Head Office: Corso Cairoli, 16 10123 Torino (Italy) Tel.: +39 011 83921113 Fax: +39 011 8171188 info@publimatic.it www.estetica.it Foro Bonaparte, 76 20121 Milano (Italy) Tel.: +39 02 72094900 Fax: +39 02 86995230 info@publimatic.it www.estetica.it Estetica Italia Edizioni Esav Via Cavour, 50 10123 Torino (Italy) Tel.: +39 011 83921111 Fax: +39 011 8125661 info@estetica.it www.estetica.it Estetica Australia & NZ Edizioni Esav Via Cavour, 50 10123 Torino (Italy) Tel.: +39 011 83921249 Fax: +39 011 8125661 e.flaugnatti@estetica.it www.esteticanetwork.com Estetica Brazil Rua Cunha Gago, 412 cj. 33 Pinheiros, 3rd floor, 05421-001 São Paulo SP (Brazil) Tel.: +55 11 2713 8150 Fax: +55 11 30395674 publicidadeesteticabrazil@duettoeditorial.com.br www.esteticabrazil.com.br Estetica Bulgaria Str. “Gen. Parensov” 24A apartment. 3 1142, Sofia (Bulgaria) Tel.: +359 2 416 85 68 office@estetica-bulgaria.com www.estetica-bulgaria.com Estetica China G/F.Building 2, 876 Jiangsu Road, Shanghai, 200052 (P.R. China) Tel.: +8621 6481 2250 Fax: +8621 6481 2269 renee@esteticachina.com www.esteticachina.com Estetica Czech & Slovak Stefanikova 29 811 03 Bratislava (Slovakia) Tel.: +421 02 5262 4321-3 Fax: +421 02 5262 4321 pecho.ivan@gmail.com www.esteticamagazine.cz Estetica Deutsche Ausgabe Schwedlerstraße 6 60314 Frankfurt (Germany) Tel.: +49 69 42 72 82 669 Fax: +49 69 42 72 82 610 angelika.knueck@consell.de www.esteticamagazine.de

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126| E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A

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ESTETICA INTERNATIONAL Publisher & Director Roberto Pissimiglia Estetica Network Editorial Director Carla De Meo Estetica Network Editor-in-chief Laura Castelli International Editorial Coordinator Fatima Pilone International Editorial Assistants Ludovica Cavalli Editorial Staff Sergi Bancells, Daniela Giambrone, Gary Kelly, Kerstin Reymann, Petra Weinzierl Art Direction Barbara Belletti Layout Manuela Artosi, Paola Baratta, Davide Cardente, Elisa Favara Licensing Editorial Coordinator Erika Marchese Licensing Manager Elena Flaugnatti Sales Supervisor Italy, France, Germany, Poland, The Netherlands, South Africa Emilio de’ Martino

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A African Fashion International (011) 269 6960 Atmosphere (021) 461 2117, www.atmosphere.co.za C Catrice (021) 785 2650 Chanel (021) 442 7700, www.prestigecosmeticsgroup.co.za Comfort Zone (011) 646 2420 D Davines (011) 646 2420 D&G at Luxottica (021) 486 6176 E Essie (011) 447 0659 G ghd (021) 461 2117, www.ghdhair.co.za Goldwell (011) 312 5070 H Head Quarters (011) 839 0009, www.headquarters.co.za

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N° 19/12 EDITION

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THE WORLD’S LEADING HAIR FASHION MAGAZINE

LOOKS Wonder Women FEATURE Salon Décor, Design and Equipment INTERVIEWS David Gillson

1 9 TH E D I T I O N 2012

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