Summer Bites

by Brad Ferrand

WELCOME TO MY FIRST COLUMN, celebrating the wonderful restaurants in the New Orleans area. We are all spoiled regarding the restaurant scene in our great city. I look forward to showcasing the culinary hot spots in New Orleans that make us drool, trigger a growl or two from our stomachs, and spoil our taste buds. Allow me to introduce you to a new restaurant you’ve never visited or rekindle a love for an old restaurant you may have forgotten. With the summer months approaching, let’s do our best to get out and support the restaurants that define our great city. Our first stop takes us to Mister Mao, an old Uptown cottage on Tchoupitoulas Street in the old Dick & Jenny’s location. Mister Mao specializes in the fusion of traditional Chinese flavors and creole cuisine, along with flavors from India, Pakistan, and Mexico that pack a flavorful punch. Few flavors are as bold and satisfying as those from those regions. Executive chef and co-owner Sophina Uong brings her roots as a Cambodian-American to the forefront at Mister Mao.

A James Beard “Best Chef” semifinalist in 2024, Chef Uong serves bold flavors with attitude in each dish at Mister Mao. We stepped into Mister Mao and felt the lively vibe. The dining room strikes a perfect balance between fun and vibrant. Our meal was a delightful journey through flavors, from sweet and spicy to savory and rich, seamlessly blending New Orleans, India, China, Pakistan, and Mexico. Sharing dishes allows you to explore the diverse menu. We were hooked with the avocado chaat, which features pickled beets and yogurt. Smoked oyster mushrooms with squash fritter and salsa verde followed, and we wanted more. If you have never tried oyster mushrooms, they are incredible and elevated at Mister Mao in ways I did not know were possible. Do yourself a favor and order this savory dish.

Next, we had the Kashmiri Fried Chicken, a staple on the ever-changing menu. It took us briefly into Pakistani airspace and back over Indian airspace. This fried chicken dish would make Mr. Ed’s jealous. Next, we were treated to a Gulf tuna crudo with coconut milk, cucumber, passion fruit, and Texas olive oil. This light and fresh dish provided a guiltless indulgence amidst the guilty pleasures that hit us from all directions during our meal. The soft, fresh tuna slices simply melted in our mouths.

Like all good things, our meal came to an end, but our experience at Mister Mao was outstanding. The wait staff was friendly, the service was exemplary, and General Manager Roger Eyles was kind enough to offer us excellent insight into the dishes.

Our final stop takes us to one of the most innovative restaurants in the city: Restaurant August. Since its inception, Restaurant August has garnered accolades from locals and visitors, cementing its place as one of New Orleans’ premier restaurants. Led by locally acclaimed Chef John Besh and Executive Chef Corey Thomas, Restaurant August entices diners with refined flavors, creative textures, and a rare level of sophistication seldom seen. As soon as you step inside Restaurant August, you are immediately transformed into a world of opulence and elegance. Crystal chandeliers and plush furnishings adorn the interior dining room, providing an unmatched level of class.

It’s a beautiful dining space, but the cuisine is the real star. Inspired by French, Creole, and Southern cuisines, their dishes are works of art. Restaurant August boasts several signature dishes such as the red snapper Pontchartrain or the gnocchi “black and blue” with jumbo lump crabmeat, but the centerpiece of the menu is the chef’s tasting menu, where the chefs can show off their skills. We were treated to the chef’s tasting menu with accompanying wine pairings. To say our jaws dropped after each course was brought to our table is an understatement. Fascinated by the Titanic, I couldn’t help but draw parallels between our experience at Restaurant August and the opulent ten-course dinners enjoyed by first-class passengers. I almost felt I needed my white tie and tails to complete the experience.

Our first course was the famous Amuse Bouche Egg. This famous course is a seafood and egg custard with a hint of truffle, topped with caviar. Our second course featured a smoked carrot tartlet shell, huckleberry Fred’s chèvre, and coal-roasted carrot brushed with house carrot garum. Next came the fruits de mer course, which showcased local seafood: red snapper court bouillon, jumbo lump crab, and oysters. Each bite brought the familiar flavors of Louisiana with an unmatched elevation of seasoning. Our next course was my favorite: ravioli stuffed with a poached farm egg and topped with shaved black truffles. It was ecstasy, as each bite seemed to melt in my mouth. Next, the pan-seared diver scallops with Iberico pork slices wedged between the sliced scallops. Yes, you read that right. Iberico pork. Nectar of the pork gods. Following a fresh pallet cleanser, we were on to our main course – grilled Colorado lamb loin with fresh morel mushrooms, heirloom carrots, and Armagnac reduction. This symphony of flavors harmoniously triggers every taste bud with each bite. As if that were not enough, we were presented with a cheese tray for our next course, followed by the dessert course that made my inner 10-year-old jump for joy. The dessert featured chocolate-covered praline ice cream bars delicately laid across an aged wood board. Executive Pastry Chef Tamber Weirsheuser’s innovative and fun dessert was a perfect bookend to a memorable meal.

There was also lots of very good wine from all over served between each course, and champagne was also served during one of the courses. Despite the numerous courses, each course was scaled down to perfection, and we left our meal full but not stuffed, which was perfect.

As expected, the servers were top-notch and highly professional. Chef Thomas and Chef Weirsheuser spoke with us during our meal about their stories, passions, and innovative drive to achieve new and exciting culinary masterpieces.

The experience at Restaurant August is much more than a meal. It is a celebration of culinary innovation with the finest ingredients and ambiance that New Orleans has to offer. Make Restaurant August the next stop on your culinary voyage. It is quite a memorable experience.