Glowing Through Time

Neon in New Orleans

by Greta Honsberger

THE DISTINCTIVE FEATURE of neon signs has been woven into the culture and history of New Orleans since the late 1940s and has contributed to the lively ambiance that defines the Big Easy. From the neon-lit jazz clubs of the French Quarter to the iconic signs of historic businesses, these glowing symbols have significantly shaped the city’s visual identity.

THE NEON SIGNS that have tirelessly flashed against the backdrop of New Orleans for decades are a familiar staple to locals. Drive around any part of New Orleans, and you can’t help but be drawn to those beacons of light that lure you in with their electric excitement. Their magical flicker summons all who pass to stop in and partake in an array of goods and services: some you would expect and others you might not.

Neon signs have adorned the fronts of various establishments for decades, extending beyond just restaurants and bars. As early as the 1940s, they could even be spotted on office buildings. On North Claiborne Street, Standard Life Insurance displays a blue and white light-festooned neon blade sign on its old building that remains today.

The presence of a neon sign at a mortuary may seem surprising, but the Majestic Mortuary in Central City has proudly displayed one since the late 1940s. This gem is a large circle with a blue backdrop displaying their name and the message,” We serve with Reverence,” in white neon lights. The glow of the Majestic Mortuary sign remains on the property today. Incidentally, the old Handelman Department Store building is directly across the street from the Majestic Mortuary. Now loft apartments, the timeless old building still wears its green and white neon moniker.

Q. Lee Dry Cleaners, established in 1940, joined the neon sign trend with Mr. Quong Lee Sr.’s name outlined in green lights, reflecting the Kanban font for its oriental touch. The sign’s vibrant colors and quirky slogan, “‘I’ call. Do it All,” exemplify the versatility of neon signs in advertising and identifying businesses. Despite the general association of neon signs with restaurants and bars, businesses recognized their visual appeal as a unique advertising tool long ago.

The French Quarter is a neon sign lovers paradise. A stroll down Bourbon Street will prove that. Beyond the flashy glow of Bourbon Street over on Decatur is Tujague’s. Known for its distinctive neon sign that features the restaurant’s name in cursive writing, it has become a recognizable symbol of Tujague’s. For locals, Tujague’s is significant because it’s been in the Quarter for 168 years, and its neon flicker since the 1920s.

In the Garden District, Commander’s Palace’s neon sign is well-known by locals and tourists alike. The “Commander’s Blue” sign has a simple but classic design. The restaurant’s name is printed in white but is electrified by small neon light bulbs. It is stunning during the day, but it is at night when this sign truly gives her best. In some nighttime photos, its name appears as if levitating, unencumbered by the structure that holds the sign. Commander’s recently replaced its original sign due to bulb replacement challenges. Thus, the sign that has been the center of thousands of photographs was replicated and now uses LED lights. Underscoring its nostalgia, the original electric, Commander’s blue sign has joined the old classic McKenzie’s sign in retirement at the Southern Food and Beverage Museum. Museum founder Liz Williams, who was so helpful in this article, offers a wealth of knowledge on the two endearing neon signs that she saved from going to scrap.

In recent years, the rise of more costeffective and energy-efficient signage has led to a decline in the flashing beacons. Many have fallen into disrepair and are being removed and replaced by their less expensive LED counterparts, leaving a void in the cultural tapestry of New Orleans. New Orleans neon signs are more than just advertisements; they are living artifacts that connect the present to the past. Their familiar shine has come to be expected as one turns a certain corner or drives down a particular street. With their vibrant colors and iconic designs, they transport to a bygone era and excite the current one. In every flicker and buzz of these glowing symbols, there is a testament to the resilience, creativity, and vibrant spirit of the Crescent City. Preserving them is a way of honoring the resilience of her people and ensuring that future generations can experience the city’s unique atmosphere.