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Patrick Richardson and his dog, Betty, check out the formations of the Wheeler Geologic Area in the Rio Grande National Forest on Aug. 7 near Creede. The Wheeler Geologic Area is a highly eroded outcropping of layers of volcanic ash in the La Garita Wilderness. The ash is the result of eruptions from the La Garita Caldera approximately 25 million years ago. The area is one of the most fascinating geological features in Colorado. Helen H. Richardson, Denver Post file
What’s inside
EDITOR
Dena Rosenberry 303-954-3515 drosenberry@denverpost.com
Visit 5 of Colorado’s sweetest mountain towns | 4-5
6 ways to explore Curecanti National Recreation Area | 32-35
Explore 6 remote Wilderness Areas | 6-8
Skip crowds, investigate national monuments | 36-39
Hike 5 less-visited fourteener trails | 9-12
Summer festivals & events return | 40-44
Enjoy these 9 off-the-beaten path hikes | 13-17
Roadside motels make a comeback | 46-49
Practice good camping etiquette | 18-19
Go camping in comfort | 50-53
Learn to ride Colorado’s rivers | 20-24
Apps to help you score a campsite | 53-54
Express yourself at these skinny-dipping spots | 25-27
Pioneer cemeteries reveal Colorado history | 55-56
Learn to surf — yes, surf! — in Colorado | 28-31
Celebrate the night at these Dark Sky areas | 57-58
DESIGNER Brandon Wilken
COPY EDITORS
Maureen Burnett, Donovan Henderson, Chris Paul, George Tanner
COVER PHOTO: Hikers follow the Devil’s Kitchen Trail amid striking rock formations in Colorado National Monument on April 8.
Hyoung Chang, The Denver Post
The Denver Post | Summer Getaways | 3
The Redstone General Store has the look of yesteryear on June 23, 2020 — in all the best ways. The community of 130 enjoys nearby world-class fly-fishing as well as plenty of hiking and mountain biking trails. RJ Sangosti, Denver Post file
Try these mountain towns for a low-key getaway By Heather Balough Rochfort Special to The Denver Post
Summer is here (not officially, but c’mon), and with it comes the mob of visitors heading to the hills for a glimpse of the purple mountain majesties. Tourists and locals alike flock to our Rocky Mountains for wildflower peeping and mountain hiking, but there is one problem with all this joy: Everyone visits the same towns. While there is certainly nothing wrong with internationally renowned communities such as Breckenridge, Vail, Aspen and Crested Butte, Colorado is 4 | Summer Getaways | The Denver Post
chock-full of under-the-radar hamlets just begging to be visited. We’ve picked a few of our favorites to share. It’s time to start exploring!
Crestone
Snug against the western slope of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains sits the community of Crestone (pop: 55), a veritable outdoor mecca that doubles as a spiritual magnet. This former mining community takes its name from a crop of 14,000-foot peaks known as the Crestones — Crestone Peak and Crestone Needle — so mountain enthusiasts are practically guaranteed a good time. But, recreationalists who want a little less strenuous recreation still have plenty of activities to choose from. Crestone is less than one hour north of Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve. And, it’s
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arguably one of the holiest meccas in the country with more than two dozen spiritual retreat centers including the Crestone Mountain Zen Center and the newly established Miyo Samten Ling. Must-do hike: South Zapata Lake Trail Best stop for food: Visit the Crestone Brewing Co. for a beer or head into the Mystic Rose Café for quality vegetarian fare.
Crestone has more than two dozen spiritual retreat centers including the Crestone Mountain Zen Center and the Miyo Samten Ling. Jenn
Cedaredge
If you haven’t heard of Cedaredge, you’re not alone. Dubbed the “Gateway to the Grand Mesa,” this small town (pop: 2,412) is most often associated with apples since more than a dozen varieties are grown in the region. But there is more to Cedaredge than fruit. Situated minutes from the top of the Grand Mesa, the largest flat-topped mountain in the world, visitors can explore more than 500 square miles of hiking, biking, fishing and paddling. That’s plenty of space for you to wander in nature and enjoy personal solitude. And there are nearly 300 trout-filled lakes in the Grand Mesa National Forest system. Tip: Rent your stand-up paddleboards and e-bikes from newcomer Altitude Outdoor Adventures. Must-do hike: Crag Crest Loop Best stop for food: Snag a cuppa joe at The Coffee Barn before heading up to the Grand Mesa for a day of play. For dinner, head into the Lost Mesa Grill for a burger and fries and grab a bottle of wine from the Apple Shed.
Fields, Denver Post file
nation in 2020 (see page 57). Must-do hike: Dallas Trail Best stop for food: Grab an early brunch in the old barber shop now known as Provisions. When you’re done hiking, munch on a locallysourced burger at Eatery 66.
Lake City
Redstone
It doesn’t take long to realize Redstone isn’t like other mountain communities. After all, where else do you drive by a line of coke ovens (once used to burn impurities from coal) and historic hotels on the way into town? But, Redstone’s accolades don’t end there. Tucked up against the banks of the Crystal River and surrounded by the rugged peaks of the Elk Range, this hamlet (pop: 130) is listed on the National Register of Historic Places thanks to the historic district that still boasts the original community buildings. But, it isn’t just for history buffs; outdoor lovers will be thrilled, too. Not only does the Crystal highlight world-class fly-fishing, but the surrounding hills offer hiking, camping and mountain biking galore. And visitors can mosey down the road to visit two hot springs: the free-yet-primitive Penny Hot Springs and the wellequipped Avalanche Hot Springs. Must-do hike: Avalanche Creek Trail Best stop for food: Head into
The moon rises over a mountain in Redstone. You can enjoy the comforts of the quaint town on your visit and never be far away from the quiet of the surrounding wilderness. RJ Sangosti, Denver Post file Propaganda Pie for delicious Detroitstyle pizza.
Ridgway
Coined the “Gateway to the San Juans,” Ridgway is perhaps the only town on this list to appear in a film: It was the main filming location for the 1969 John Wayne western “True Grit.” These days, Ridgway (pop: 992) is more than just a Western mining town. Less than an hour north of Telluride and settled beneath the watchful stare
of Mount Sneffels (14,158 feet), this bustling community is filled with outdoorsy folks who have a strong affinity for sunshine and fresh air. Hiking, biking, paddling and camping abound in the surrounding San Juan Mountains and nearby Ridgway State Park, but it all has an authentic vibe that isn’t found in the glitzy crowds to the south. If star gazing is your thing, here’s an added perk: The International DarkSky Association tapped Ridgway with an official Dark Sky Community desig-
If you’re looking for scenic beauty and absolutely no crowds in south-central Colorado, Lake City is your spot. Not only is it the only town in the entirety of Hinsdale County, but it’s literally surrounded by mountains. Ninety-six percent of the county is public lands, making Lake City the most remote mountain community on this list. But, it’s certainly not lacking in charm. There are zero stoplights, commercial chain stores or even elevators in Lake City (none of the buildings has more than two stories). And the surrounding hillsides — and 13,000- and 14,000-foot peaks — are rife with places to camp, bike, hunt and hike. Off-roading is also popular here. If that’s your jam, take a look at the Alpine Loop Scenic Byway that connects Lake City with Ouray and Silverton. Must-do hike: Uncompahgre Peak (14,309 feet) via the South Ridge Best stop for food: Dig into catfish and a beer at Southern Vittles. Or, for something a little more upscale, try Climb Elevated Eatery. Heather Balogh Rochfort is a Colorado freelance writer and the author of three outdoors books, including “Sleeping Bags to S’mores” and “Women Who Hike.” The Denver Post | Summer Getaways | 5
One could spend a lifetime exploring the dramatic gorges, soaring peaks and wild rivers in the Weminuche Wilderness. R. Scott Rappold, Special to The Denver Post
Colorado’s true wilderness is merely a hike away By R. Scott Rappold Special to The Denver Post
“Wilderness is not a luxury but a necessity of the human spirit.” — Edward Abbey For most Americans, true wilderness is something not easily reached. In crowded coastal and Midwestern states, especially to the east, very little public, undeveloped land remains, and what does is usually confined to small, highly-used bubbles like state parks and nature preserves, where the sounds of a road are never far off. Colorado is blessed with 3.7 million acres of federal6 | Summer Getaways | The Denver Post
ly designated wilderness, areas so remote and wild you can only travel by foot or horseback, and without an overnight pack you can only nibble at their edges. Lose yourself for a day or three or a week in these gorgeous mountain landscapes, where the only signs of human society are the trail, sign posts and maybe the odd bridge or old mining cabin, and you may emerge with a new sense of the world and your place
in it, not to mention a new appreciation of soft beds and flush toilets. Of course, since so many wilderness trailheads are within easy reach of the Front Range and resort towns, you may be sharing the experience with plenty of others. But get away from the Interstate 70 corridor and you’ll likely find the quiet immersion in nature that has been inspiring writers, activists and even U.S. presidents for decades, from Henry David Thoreau to Teddy Roosevelt and beyond. Here are a few suggestions for visiting some of Colorado’s lesser-known wilderness areas.
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WILDERNESS «FROM 6 Buffalo Peaks Wilderness
This 41,000-acre wilderness is on the southern end of the Mosquito Range, the mountains that form the western edge of South Park. Hordes descend on the Kite Lake area to the north to hike fourteeners in summer, but these woods lack mountains of such distinction. What it lacks in dramatic vistas it makes up for in solitude and abundant wildlife. Best trail: The Rich Creek/Rough and Tumble trails make a gorgeous 12-mile loop, with plenty of campsites in Buffalo Meadows with views of the namesake Buffalo Peaks, which can be ascended in an easy side trip.
Fossil Ridge Wilderness
This wilderness area east of Gunnison gets far less use than the famous mountains around nearby Crested Butte. It spans 32,000 acres and is dominated by a towering limestone ridge where fossils of ancient sea creatures have been found. Best trail: Lamphier Lake is a gorgeous alpine pool, with a relatively easy approach, 4 miles and 1,400 feet of elevation gain. The long drive to the trailhead keeps usage light. You can take an easy side trip up Gunsight Pass and return to your car or, better yet, set up camp and ponder how the fossils of sea creatures got 13,000 feet up in the Rockies.
La Garita Wilderness
This wilderness on the western edge of the San Luis Valley sprawls over 130,000 acres of the La Garita Mountains, a chain of gentle, humped peaks that seem to go on forever. None of the trailheads is easy to reach — most involve approaches of multiple hours on dirt roads — so expect solitude. Best trail: Wheeler Geologic Area is a place every outdoors lover should visit. Once a national monument, it lost that status and the road fell into disrepair, so much so that one can hike the 6-mile East Bellows Trail faster than most off-roaders can drive the rough, 14-mile road. The landscape of volcanic spires and gullies and hoodoos is like nothing else in Colorado and worth a visit.
Mount Zirkel Wilderness
This area between the town of Steamboat Springs and North Park covers 160,000 acres of gorgeous terrain teeming with wildlife, not to mention 70 alpine lakes. It was among the first areas in Colorado set aside in the 1964 Wilderness Act, and for good reason. One could spend weeks or a
Wheeler Geologic Area is one of many gorgeous, remote areas to explore in the La Garita Wilderness. Photos by R. Scott Rappold, Special to The Denver Post
Wilderness rules
The 1964 Wilderness Act is considered one of the most successful conservation measures in U.S. history, protecting 111 million acres of federal land from development, resource extraction and motorized use. The following rules apply: • Only foot and horse travel permitted. No motorized transportation or mountain bikes. • Groups are limited to fewer than 15 people. • Dogs must be leashed. • Campsites must be 100 feet from lakes and rivers. • Power tools like chain saws are not permitted. lifetime exploring this stunning landscape. Best Trail: Rainbow Lake. This trail on the east side of the wilderness (Walden is the nearest town) runs 8 miles. Many hikers turn around at Rainbow Lake, a worthy destination 4 miles up. Backpackers or energetic day hikers can continue on to Slide Lakes, two gorgeous lakes located WILDERNESS » 8
Lamphier Lake is a lovely alpine pool in Fossil Ridge Wilderness, reached after a relatively easy 4-mile hike. The Denver Post | Summer Getaways | 7
The remoteness of the South San Juan Wilderness nearly guarantees you’ll spend days in solitude. Photos by R. Scott Rappold, Special to The Denver Post
Hike in the 160,000-acre Mount Zirkel Wilderness and you’re sure to find stunning scenery and at least one of 70 gorgeous lakes. 8 | Summer Getaways | The Denver Post
WILDERNESS «FROM 7 nearly at timberline just below the Continental Divide.
South San Juan Wilderness
The stretch of Continental Divide from Wolf Creek Pass south to the New Mexico state line isn’t easy to reach — five hours from Denver and another two on dirt roads — but with big effort comes big reward. Glaciers carved dramatic valleys and soaring peaks, and since the Continental Divide Trail runs through the wilderness it’s easy to spend days going up one valley and down another, past gorgeous lakes and waterfalls so remote you won’t find them on any map. Most people begin above the summer tourist town of Platoro, 30 miles down a dirt road that is fine for most vehicles but may shake your fillings loose. Best Trail: The headwaters of the Conejos River above Platoro can be explored in many different overnight loops. For the most bang for your buck hike up the El Rito Azul Trail 4.6 miles to Blue Lake and set up camp. Get up
early and head north on the Continental Divide Trail. Descend the Middle Fork Trail and you can camp near gorgeous Conejos Falls or return to the trailhead. How remote is this area? It’s where the last grizzly bear in Colorado was killed in the late 1970s.
Weminuche Wilderness
This is the granddaddy of them all, the largest wilderness in Colorado, sprawling more than 500,000 acres in the San Juan Mountains. One could spend a lifetime exploring the dramatic gorges, soaring peaks, wild rivers and endless stretches of tundra. The Rio Grande, San Juan and Animas rivers all begin here. To truly experience this wildest corner of Colorado requires a multiday trip, but except for a couple of popular areas like Chicago Basin or Rainbow Hot Springs or Fourmile Falls, you may be the only group camping for miles in any direction. Best Trail: Too many to count. Freelance journalist R. Scott Rappold has been writing about hiking, backpacking, skiing and other ways people enjoy the great state of Colorado for more than 15 years.
Brett Sublett of Durango runs through American Basin after topping out on the 14,048-foot Handies Peak during the first day of the Hardrock 100 run near Lake City in July 2005. Brett Butterstein, Associated Press file
Avoid the traffic while on your next summit hike By R. Scott Rappold Special to The Denver Post
There’s nothing comparable to standing atop a 14,000-foot peak, marveling in the views above the clouds, swelling with pride for having battled exhaustion in the thin air to achieve a personal victory.
All too often, though, it’s an experience you’ll share with dozens of others. Colorado has 54 mountains that rise above 14,000 feet, and climbing them is one of the most popular summer activities, a feat at least 500,000 people attempt a year. Of course, “climbing” is a misnomer, because most can be con-
quered in trail shoes or hiking boots. Crowded parking lots, crowded trails, crowded summits — that’s the norm on fourteeners within easy reach of the Front Range. But drive a little farther and tackle one of the more remote peaks, and you
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A hiker ascends 14,270-foot Grays Peak on June 30, 2014. Patrick Traylor, Denver Post file
FOURTEENERS «FROM 9 may find solitude, especially on a weekday. With that in mind, here are some peaks that are a little tougher to reach, though a quiet, soulful experience may be your reward. The website 14ers.com 10 | Summer Getaways | The Denver Post
is a great resource for directions and trail information for these mountains.
San Luis Peak
They don’t get more remote than this 14,014-foot behemoth in the La Garita Wilderness near … well, it’s not near anything. Leave the pavement of Colorado 114, about four hours’ drive from Denver, and the trailhead is another two hours on dirt roads. The closest towns
are Creede and Saguache, and they’re not very close. The reward for all this driving is one of the least-visited fourteeners. It’s not technically interesting. Like all the La Garita Mountains, it’s basically just a large hump. It’s 13.5 miles round-trip, with 3,600 feet of elevation gain. It’s the highest point for many, many miles in every direction, though, and you just might have the view to yourself.
Mount Lindsey
The Sangre de Cristo Mountains form a jagged, imposing wall between the San Luis Valley and Wet Mountain Valley of southern Colorado. This rocky spire at 14,042 feet is far to the south of the more popular Crestone group and sees much less use. That, and the fact that car passengers must park and walk two miles to the trailhead, keeps it quieter.
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The easiest route up 14,048-foot Handies Peak begins from the flowery confines of American Basin off the Alpine Loop Scenic Byway in the San Juan Mountains. Dan Leeth, Special to The Denver Post, file
FOURTEENERS «FROM 10 It’s also among the more difficult of the fourteeners, owing to its steepness. You’ll gain 3,500 feet of elevation in just 4 miles, much of it over loose rock and steep gullies that hold snow well into summer. From the top, the Sangres run north to the horizon, narrow and daunting.
Handies Peak
The San Juan Mountains are Colorado’s largest range, and you’ll have to drive deep into it to climb this gem of a peak. From Lake City you’ll drive 20 miles on the popular 4x4 route known as the Alpine Loop Scenic Byway. It gets rough but is fine for passenger cars most of the way. Most hikers tackle Handies (14,048 feet) from gorgeous American Basin, making it a relatively easy 5.5-mile round trip. But park at the Grizzly Gulch trailhead and take the east slopes route and you may find more solitude, since it’s 1.5 miles longer to the top. From the top a sea of peaks in every direction is spread out before you. Don’t forget to take photos.
Huron Peak
No other forest road provides access to as many fourteeners as
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Fourteener safety
• Always get an early start as thunderstorms are common from midday in summer. • Be ready for any kind of weather. • Good boots or trail shoes with waterproof layers and decent traction are essential. • Don’t just bring a printout of trail directions — take a map and compass as well. • Check snow and trail conditions at 14ers.com. Many of these big mountains hold snow well into summer. • Take far more water than you think you’ll need. There’s rarely any high in the tundra. • Watch for signs of altitude sickness — dizziness, headache, nausea, confusion — and turn back if necessary. The mountain will be there another day.
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The summit of 14,270-foot Grays Peak was a popular place to be on June 30, 2014. Patrick Traylor, Denver Post file
FOURTEENERS «FROM 11 Chaffee County Road 390. Between Buena Vista and Leadville, the road is suitable for most any vehicle when dry, often leading to crowds who come to tackle the four fourteeners in the heart of the Collegiate Peaks. The road gets rougher after the ghost town of Winfield, meaning a 2-mile walk for those in cars. The walk keeps 14,003-foot Huron 12 | Summer Getaways | The Denver Post
less crowded than its neighbors. It’s a long slog — 11 miles with 3,800 feet of elevation gain — but the views are sublime. You’re practically in the geographic center of the Colorado Rockies, with views of nearly every subrange if you look far enough.
Grays and Torreys peaks
We know what you’re thinking. Really? These peaks, among the closest fourteeners to Denver and right along Interstate 70, get so much use you’re apt to be in a conga line on the trail.
But drive an extra hour to the far side, over Loveland Pass to Keystone, and then take the road to the mountain hamlet of Montezuma. You’ll find a far more pleasurable way of conquering the twin monarch of the Front Range. Without a high-clearance, fourwheel-drive vehicle, the Southwest Ridge route up Grays requires walking 2 miles up the rough Chihuahua Gulch road. You’ll walk up a gorgeous alpine basin dotted with old mines and probably have it to yourself until you crest
the Continental Divide and see the hoards who took the standard route. It’s 5 miles and 3,800 feet of climbing to the summit of Grays. If your legs and the weather are cooperating, you can continue on to Torreys and make it a loop by picking your way back down Chihuahua Gulch. Freelance journalist R. Scott Rappold has been writing about hiking, backpacking, skiing and other ways people enjoy the great state of Colorado for more than 15 years.
From the trailhead, you can see the winding path that leads to the summit of Square Top Mountain. Photos by Sarah Lamagna, Special to The Denver Post
Nine off-the-beaten-path hikes in Colorado By Sarah Lamagna Special to The Denver Post
If the pandemic taught us anything, it’s that we all need space away from others every now and then. Coloradans went seeking that space last summer, flocking to the mountains and trails, especially those near the Front Range. While folks sought an escape from the cramped surroundings of their homes, they often found crowds instead of solitude and peace. Avoid the heavily trafficked trails this summer, and instead, check out these off-the-beaten-path hikes that will give you the quiet you’re truly after. (Note: This is just the starting point; read in-depth trail descriptions and download/printout maps be-
fore you go.)
Square Top Mountain
Near: Georgetown Roundtrip length: 7 miles Difficulty: Strenuous The drive up Guanella Pass Scenic Byway to the Square Top Mountain trailhead gives you a taste of what’s in store for your hike. The trailhead parking is on the west side of the byway, opposite the crowded HIKES » 14
Take a moment while hiking the Square Top Mountain trail to look back. You'll get a wonderful view of Mount Bierstadt. The Denver Post | Summer Getaways | 13
Wildflowers in summer, aspens in fall, wildlife year-round — the Dark Canyon, Irwin and Dyke Trail Loop never disappoints. Photos by Sarah Lamagna, Special to The Denver Post
HIKES «FROM 13 Mount Bierstadt parking lot. The trail itself winds along the ridge on an undulating path. If you stop and look back during your hike, you’ll be rewarded with views of Mount Evans, Mount Bierstadt and Grays and Torreys peaks. About two-thirds of the way up the trail, you’ll reach Square Top Lakes. This is a pleasant destination itself. You can stop here or take advantage of the view for a quick snack and move on. After the lakes, the trail to the summit (13,794 feet) stays along a steep ridge with loose, gravelly rock. Use trekking poles to keep you steady; your legs will thank you later.
Devil’s Causeway
Near: Yampa Roundtrip length: 6 miles Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous The Devil’s Causeway has gained a bit more traction with hikers over the years. Because of its remote location in the Flat Tops Wilderness, though, it’s still one of the lessertraveled paths. Starting your hike at Stillwater Reservoir is the easiest (and quickest) way up. The first 2 miles are relatively flat, but the last 1.2 miles ascends roughly 1,000 feet to the Devil’s Causeway ridgeline (about 11,800 feet elevation). If you’ve psyched yourself out of crossing the ridge, feel free to snap a few photos at the start of the narrow trail and head back down.
If you’re feeling confident, continue onto the ridge (roughly 50 feet) where sheer cliffs fall 80 feet on both sides of the trail with talus slopes branching out another 800 feet. A slip can cost you greatly here so tread carefully. If you only want to cross the Causeway once, make this a loop trail by linking up with Chinese Wall Trail to the Bear River Trail and back to the Stillwater Reservoir (roughly 10.5 miles total).
Homestead Trail
Comanche National Grassland
Near: Campo Length: 11.2 miles Difficulty: Easy to moderate Wander to remote southeast Colorado to explore an ocean of grass. It might not look like your typical Colorado landscape, but the Comanche National Grassland has a beauty all its own. To see the best it has to offer, head to the Homestead Trail. There you’ll be able to listen to the wind that carries the stories of the families who used to live there. You can walk where dinosaurs roamed ancient seashores and see 1,300 visible tracks. At the least, you’ll witness countless wildlife including perhaps the rare lesser prairie chicken, swift fox and golden eagle.
Rattlesnake Arches
Near: Grand Junction Length: 13.5 miles Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous Rattlesnake Arches Trail is home to the largest concentra-
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You’ll summit a thirteener three times on the Mount Sniktau and Grizzly Peak Traverse trail.
The view from the summit of Chief Mountain. Photos by Sarah Lamagna, Special to The Denver Post
HIKES «FROM 14 tion of red sandstone arches found outside the famed Arches National Park. The nice thing about this out-and-back trail is the lack of people on it. Its remote location is found within the boundaries of McInnis Canyons National Conservation Area. Throughout the hike you’ll see arches (duh), giant alcoves and spires, piñon pine and cacti, and wildlife, maybe even desert bighorn sheep. There are even a few spots to cross natural bridges and grab that Instagram-worthy shot!
Chief Mountain
Near: Idaho Springs Length: 3.1 miles Difficulty: Easy Chief Mountain is a short hike with big rewards. It tops out just above treeline at 11,709 feet with 360-degree views HIKES » 16
Sarah Lamagna hikes the trail up Chief Mountain, her son in a carrier on her back.
An easy trail takes you around the town of Ouray, providing views of the town and surrounding mountains. You can even cross a suspended bridge and pass through a small tunnel. The Denver Post | Summer Getaways | 15
HIKES «FROM 15 from the rock outcrop at the summit. The small parking area creates a battle for spaces on busy summer weekends so get there early to avoid the crowds (or, better yet, go on a weekday). The trailhead is just off Squaw Pass Road on the opposite side of Echo Mountain Ski Area. The 1.5 miles to the summit are a steady but moderate climb. Views include Rocky Mountain National Park, Mount Evans, Pikes Peak (on a clear day), and Grays and Torreys peaks.
Black Powder Pass
Near: Breckenridge Length: 3.4 miles Difficulty: Easy to moderate Most people head to Breckenridge for its world-renowned snow hills, but it’s also a summer adventurer’s paradise. The Black Powder Pass trail has some of the best views in the area. This out-and-back trail begins at Boreas Pass where you’ll walk by the 10th Mountain Division huts (reservable in winter) and is a steady climb over 1.7 miles (keep in mind, your hike will begin at more than 11,400 feet elevation). Views abound throughout the entirety of the trail, and you’ll see Bald and Boreas mountains clearly at the summit.
Mount Sniktau and Grizzly Peak Traverse
Near: Dillon Length: 7.2 miles Difficulty: Strenuous The trek along the Grizzly Peak Traverse is a grueling and unforgiving climb. After parking at Loveland Pass, you immediately ascend almost 1,000 vertical feet within the first 0.9 miles. Wind shelters at the top of the ridge are a good break before heading to the north to hit Mount Sniktau (your first thirteener of the day). Double back to the wind shelters and continue south to Cupid Peak (the second thirteener). The winding path then brings you to the base of Grizzly Peak (the third thirteener). Despite only being about 1,400 feet above the trailhead, the trail to Grizzly Peak has a total of 3,200 feet of elevation gain. (The elevation adds up quickly when you climb three thirteeners on one trail.) The push to the Grizzly Peak summit is steep and ridden with
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A view from Black Powder Pass. Sarah Lamagna, Special to The Denver Post
The view of Ouray from the perimeter trail, which is easy to reach from several points around town. Sarah Lamagna, Special to The Denver Post
HIKES «FROM 16 loose gravel. Once on top, unobstructed views of several fourteeners surround you. Breathe it in and then prepare your mind for another hard trip back to the car.
Ouray Perimeter Trail
Near: Ouray Length: 5.6 miles Difficulty: Easy A trip to southwestern Colorado isn’t
complete without a romp around the Little Switzerland of the Rockies. And being seven hours from the Front Range, it tends to keep the crowds away. The Ouray Perimeter Trail is the perfect way to see everything this small mountain town has to offer. You can start the trail in several areas (it’s a loop), but it’s nice to start at the Visitor Center to get the lowdown from the locals first. The traverse takes you on the outskirts of the town with views of the surrounding mountains and valley (high point: 8,500 feet elevation). It
even includes crossing a suspended bridge and walking through a small tunnel above Box Canyon.
Dark Canyon, Irwin and Dyke Trail Loop
Near: Crested Butte Length: 5.9 miles Difficulty: Easy to moderate It’s always amazing to see a trail that has sweeping, breathtaking views of one of the largest aspen groves in the world, be so lightly trafficked. The Dark Canyon, Irwin and Dyke Trail is exactly that. The 6-mile loop is easily accessible off the road to Kebler Pass
within the Raggeds Wilderness. The trail is easy for most hikers and only climbs about 1,500 feet. Some of the best views are at the 2mile mark. Make sure to look out for a scree field to catch a sweeping view of Marcinella Mountain and East Beckwith Mountain. Most do this hike in the autumn for the changing aspens, but summertime is just as spectacular and far less crowded — and may feature colorful wildflowers. Sarah Lamagna is an avid hiker who frequently writes about exploring the outdoors. The Denver Post | Summer Getaways | 17
A campfire crackles in a fire ring at a campsite on Kebler Pass on June 24, 2020, near Crested Butte. RJ Sangosti, Denver Post file
Campground etiquette 101 By Joshua Berman Special to The Denver Post
We’ve all been there: You pull up to your campsite only to have the exciting thrill of arrival dampened by half-burned food wrappers and metal cans in the fire pit, trash scattered around the picnic table, or worse, used toilet paper by yonder bush. Whether you choose a different site or pick up the garbage and throw it away, it’s a bummer. This doesn’t have to be the norm. With the surge in new campers hitting the mountains this past year, having basic shared guidelines about how 18 | Summer Getaways | The Denver Post
to behave in the outdoors is critical. Of course, it begins with informing people about basic campground and trail rules (don’t feed or approach
wildlife, don’t cut limbs from trees for your fire, use bear boxes, follow common campground courtesy, etc.). But the bigger solution is to instill a common culture of leaving your campsite — and the wilderness — cleaner than you found it, and teaching your children to do the same. Guidelines for ethical visits to the great outdoors were developed, and are shared, by the Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics (800-332-4100, http:// lnt.org), a 26-year-old international educational program based in Boulder. The program was created to provide directions for minimizing our impact on the lands we love so much.
ETIQUETTE » 19
ETIQUETTE «FROM 18 The increasing number of people exploring the country’s mountains, deserts, canyons and other wildlands presents a challenge, LNT executive director Dana Watts said. But the spike in interest is a positive shift, she said. “More people are getting outdoors, including more diverse groups, people that are new to the outdoors,” Watts said in a telephone interview. “It presents challenges,” she said, but “we believe that it’s a great thing that more people want to make that connection to nature and outdoor spaces.” That said, Watts reported that “nine out of 10 people don’t have the necessary information, skills and techniques to leave no trace — there is a lot of learning to be had.” To that end, the center developed a simplified, easy-to-follow “LNT Basics” kit that explains each of the seven principles outlined to guide our time in nature. Watts stressed the increased importance of Principle No. 1: Plan ahead, know before you go and be prepared. This is crucial right now when it comes to waste disposal, since many public bathrooms have been closed due to the pandemic. Also, always plan to “pack it in, pack it out” (take all of your trash with you when you leave) to ease your trash impact on park managers. Additionally, said Watts, with more people going outdoors, it’s important to help make our favorite trails and campgrounds inclusive to all. She said we need to always ask ourselves, “How can we make everyone feel welcome in the outdoors? How can we use kindness to make people feel welcome?” This can mean simply saying hello to fellow hikers on a trail, or it can mean supporting organizations that help grant access to the outdoors to more diverse groups of people. Follow these guidelines to create the most inclusive experience in nature for everyone and to help ensure the environment remains healthy for all living things. Joshua Berman is a freelance travel writer whose latest book is “Colorado Camping.”
Davion Nickens, left, and his brother, Wyatt, cook hot dogs over a campfire with their mother, Anna, at right, in an area of the national forest near Nederland in 2017. Daily Camera file photo
Leave No Trace
1. Plan ahead and prepare. • Know the regulations and special concerns for the area you’ll visit. • Prepare for extreme weather, hazards and emergencies. • Schedule your trip to avoid times of high use. • Visit in small groups when possible. Consider splitting larger groups into smaller groups. • Repackage food to minimize waste. • Use a map and compass to eliminate the use of marking paint, rock cairns or flagging. 2. Travel and camp on durable surfaces. • Durable surfaces include established trails and campsites, rock, gravel, dry grasses or snow. • Protect riparian areas by camping at least 200 feet from lakes and streams. • Good campsites are found, not made. Altering a site is not necessary. • Concentrate use on existing trails and campsites. • Walk single file in the middle of the trail, even when wet or muddy. • Keep campsites small. Focus activity in areas where vegetation is absent. • Disperse use to prevent the creation of campsites and trails.
• Avoid places where impacts are just beginning. 3. Dispose of waste properly. • Pack it in, pack it out. Inspect your campsite and rest areas for trash or spilled foods. Pack out all trash, leftover food and litter. • Deposit solid human waste in “catholes” dug 6 to 8 inches deep, at least 200 feet from water, camp and trails. Cover and disguise the cathole when finished. • Pack out toilet paper and hygiene products. • To wash yourself or your dishes, carry water 200 feet away from streams or lakes and use small amounts of biodegradable soap. Scatter strained dishwater. 4. Leave what you find. • Preserve the past: Examine, but do not touch cultural or historic structures and artifacts. • Leave rocks, plants and other natural objects as you find them. • Avoid introducing or transporting nonnative species. • Do not build structures or furniture, or dig trenches. 5. Minimize campfire impacts. • Campfires can cause lasting impacts to the backcountry. Use a lightweight stove for cooking and enjoy a lantern for light. • Where fires are permitted, use established fire rings, fire pans or mound fires.
• Keep fires small. Only use sticks from the ground that can be broken by hand. • Burn all wood and coals to ash, put out campfires completely, then scatter cool ashes. 6. Respect wildlife. • Observe wildlife from a distance. Do not follow or approach them. • Never feed animals. Feeding wildlife damages their health, alters natural behaviors and exposes them to predators and other dangers. • Protect wildlife and your food by storing rations and trash securely. • Control pets at all times, or leave them at home. • Avoid wildlife during sensitive times: mating, nesting, raising young or winter. 7. Be considerate of other visitors. • Respect other visitors and protect the quality of their experience. • Be courteous. Yield to other users on the trail. • Step to the downhill side of the trail when encountering pack stock. • Take breaks and camp away from trails and other visitors. • Let nature’s sounds prevail. Avoid loud voices and noises. Source: lnt.org/research-resources/leave-notrace-basics-social-media-toolkit
The Denver Post | Summer Getaways | 19
Rafters prepare a snack at a riverside camp during an overnight trip through Browns Canyon. Carrie Schlemmer, Special to The Denver Post
Make rivers your new trails this summer Beginners
By Natalie DeRatt Special to The Denver Post
Rivers have captured our souls for eons. We find peace listening to a babbling brook, seek adrenaline boosts navigating rapids, and experience fascination watching water meander and carve through our favorite landscapes. Luckily for those in the Centennial State, 107,000 miles of snowmelt-supplied waterways are awaiting adventure right in your backyard. Typically less crowded than Colorado’s trails, rivers are a perfect option for pandemic-friendly fun. Plus, 20 | Summer Getaways | The Denver Post
with reliable water through August, there’s a juicy boating moment for every level of paddler. Whether you’re looking for family-friendly floats, places to hone your skills, intense whitewater to play on, or a little bit of everything, here’s where to start.
If you’re new to paddling or want to enjoy a chill float, start here. Before leaving for the day, check the water flow where you’re headed (waterdata.usgs.gov/ co/nwis/current/?type=flow). For green paddlers, the lower the level (e.g., less than 10,000 CFS) the better. Most of these options are also section floats, which means your start and finish points are in two separate locations. You’ll want to arrange a shuttle (either a friend or local hire) ahead of time.
1. Milk Run
One of the best introductions to river rafting in Colorado, the Milk Run section of the Arkansas River
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Kayakers watch a fellow boater take on a wave on The Numbers, a stretch of the Arkansas River popular with experienced kayakers and rafters. Carrie Schlemmer, Special to The Denver Post
RIVERS «FROM 20 begins in Johnson Village (at the Wilderness Aware ramp). The stretch is only 5 miles and takes about an hour, so it’s a perfect gateway for new paddlers as well as the really young or old. It’s mostly flat, though paddlers can enjoy a few bouncy rapids and some feel-good flows to gain their river legs. You’ll also glimpse some epic views of the Collegiate Peaks.
2. Ruby Horsethief Canyon
Beginning in Loma, this 25mile section of the Colorado River is ideal for beginners and families who want to enjoy mostly flat water. Settle in for a mellow float through beautiful red rock canyons and spy historic rock art until you reach the take-out in Westwater, Utah. Before you set out, make sure everyone is prepared for and committed to a full day on the water. Camping is also an option beforehand, but requires advanced booking and a permit.
3. Salida Town Run
This three- to four-hour float on the Arkansas River goes from Big Bend to Salida East and includes Class II+ rapids. Don’t let this put you off though; it’s another fantastic option for families with the bonus of some of the best fishing in the area and majestic scenery. The Boathouse Cantina is an ideal watering hole to stop at for a quick bite and beverage before the take-out a couple of miles later.
Intermediates
After you’ve mastered the basics, you may be ready to take it up a notch. Being a solid intermediate paddler means you have good control of your boat and are able to navigate some stronger currents and waves. If you want to experience Class II+ rapids but don’t feel you’re quite there skillwise, you can always hire one of Colorado’s wonderful licensed guides.
4. Play park on the Arkansas River
This 1.25-mile play park in Salida features multiple holes and waves, all with consistent water flow. Play parks — or kayak parks — are a collection
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The Denver Post | Summer Getaways | 21
RIVERS «FROM 21 of man-made modifications to the natural river designed to allow you to hone your skills in a safe, but super fun, environment. After you’ve mastered your beginner basics, this is the ideal training ground to learn how to command your boat for more difficult
rivers.
5. Lower Animas River
The free-flowing Animas River near Durango offers spirited stretches of whitewater and handfuls of places to surf and play. Designated Gold Medal status by the state, this river is best run through June and you can even try your hand at a permanent slalom course found in the town section. After you’ve mastered the Lower Animas, move to the Upper Animas for more Class IV and V options.
6. Browns Canyon
A solid and reliable Class III run, Browns Canyon has rapids, play spots and an exciting big water feel. It’s also one of the most beautiful runs, offering views of bighorn sheep as you meander through smoothly rounded granite and luscious hills. Found close to Buena Vista (put-in at Fisherman’s Bridge), this run is incredibly popular for commercial trips so run it on a weekday if you’re looking for quiet.
River runners enjoy Milk Run, a popular area with new paddleboarders and boaters. Carrie Schlemmer, Special to The Denver Post 22 | Summer Getaways | The Denver Post
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A kayaker runs The Numbers during high water. Carrie Schlemmer, Special to The Denver Post
RIVERS «FROM 22 7. Pumphouse to Rancho Del Rio on the Upper Colorado River Found about 5 miles south of Kremmling, this popular stretch of the Upper Colorado River races through 1,500-foot canyons and wide basins and has a great wilderness vibe. Classified as II-III, it’s a must-paddle intermediate option as you can choose to skirt a lot of the rapids. If you want a lower intensity, go later in summer for a more relaxed flow and make it a day trip. You’ll find great fishing and swimming along the way.
Experienced
You’ve spent all summer getting the hang of a solid roll and are confident with your boat-maneuvering skills. Congratulations: You’re ready for some nonstop whitewater and high flows. Before pushing off on the next three rivers, be sure you have total understanding of whitewater safety, have a paddling buddy (or two) with you, and scout the rivers beforehand to know your route options.
8. Numbers, on the Arkansas River
Great from high to low water (you can run this into fall), this section of the Arkansas River, 6 or 7 miles north of Buena Vista, was dubbed “Numbers” because of its speed. The first paddlers who ran it didn’t have time to think of names before the next rapid, so they settled for numbers instead. Intense and technical, the eight back-to-back rapids and a hole require precision and accuracy, and maybe even a morning warm-up on more mellow areas to prepare yourself.
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The Denver Post | Summer Getaways | 23
A rafter looks out over the water during an overnight trip through Browns Canyon. Carrie Schlemmer, Special to The Denver Post
RIVERS «FROM 23 9. Slaughterhouse Falls on the Roaring Fork River
Perhaps the best stretch of Class IV whitewater in the state, Slaughterhouse Falls, or Slaughter, is 5 miles from Aspen. It features 4 miles of juicy rapids — such as the iconic Entrance Exam — eyebrow-raising 6-foot drops 24 | Summer Getaways | The Denver Post
(the falls of Slaughterhouse Falls), and its signature Hell’s Half Mile. It’s nonstop, quality and also incredibly scenic (if you’re able to peel your eyes off the river).
10. Pine Creek to Triple Drop on the Arkansas River
Right before you get to The Numbers section of the Arkansas River, you’ll find this party of dramatic rapids, big drops and powerful hydraulics. It’s a true Colorado classic, and probably the gnarliest on this list: continuous, exhilarating and absolutely unforgettable.
Put in around Granite and ride the three sections — Entrance, S-Bend and Triple Drop — 5 miles to Princeton. This is the steepest section of the Arkansas River, so only kayakers and rafters with lots of experience under their belt should try it. Originally from England, Natalie DeRatt has enjoyed getting to know Colorado’s mountains and rivers for more than a decade.
5 great places to soak au naturel By R. Scott Rappold Special to The Denver Post
“Freedom” means many things. For outdoors-loving Coloradans, it can mean standing alone atop a 14,000-foot peak you just climbed. Or being the first person to carve your skis’ signature through virgin powder. Or backpacking to a mountain lake and camping with nobody else around for miles. For my money, nothing sums up “freedom” like swimming or soaking in Colorado’s natural waters in your birthday suit. Freed from the constraints of material sticking to your body like a second skin, you’ll experience a new level of oneness with nature. The bathing suit wasn’t even invented until the Victorian Age — and then by stuffy Englishmen who regarded skinny dipping as immoral. In most societies for most of the history of the world, swimming was done in the nude. Of course, prudishness still has strong roots in America, and as a society we lag behind Europe, where nudity is not such a scandal. Colorado, though, is more progressive than most places in the U.S. In fact it’s one of six states where women are allowed to go topless, and there are many places where you can swim or soak in the nude — at resorts and out in the wilderness, where the morality police aren’t around. As the weather warms, here’s your guide to the best places in Colorado for a skinny dip. Since Colorado waters are fed by snowmelt and frigid on all but the hottest July afternoons, it should come as no surprise that most of the places on this list are hot springs.
Valley View Hot Springs
This rustic resort in the San Luis Valley has been
Permits are required to camp at Conundrum Hot Springs. Most visitors stay overnight because of the long hike to get there. Who wants to rush this experience? Photos by R. Scott Rappold, Special to The Denver Post home to skinny-dipping since the nearby Orient Mine opened in the 1880s (reportedly to the shock of Victorian ladies in the mining camp). The resort has 10 pools scattered across a hillside, from the manmade swimming pool to remote natural pools high above, so if you’re new to this sort of thing you can ease into it in privacy at one of the upper pools. Soaking here can feel like a wilderness experience, with solitude and great mountain views. In summer you can hike to see the largest colony of Mexican free-tailed bats in Colorado as they take flight at dusk from the abandoned mine. Be warned, clothing is optional on the entire property, including the hike. Lodging: There are campsites, restored cabins and a few motel-style rooms. What you need to know: Advance reservations are required. While you’re there: Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve is a short drive away, as is the mountain-biking and rock-climbing of Penitente Canyon. More information: olt.org
Conundrum Hot Springs
This magical hot spring is one of the most remote in Colorado, at 11,200 feet and deep in the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness near Aspen. AU NATUREL » 26
What could be more natural than to relax, au naturel, in the soothing waters at Valley View Hot Springs? The Denver Post | Summer Getaways | 25
On a hot summer day, a dip in a mountain lake or stream is invigorating. Depending on the solitude and company, skip your suit. R. Scott Rappold, Special to The Denver Post
AU NATUREL «FROM 25 It’s a grueling, 8.5-mile hike to reach, but worth every step. Geothermally heated water flows from fissures in the Earth’s crust, forming one large pool and a few smaller ones. The views of the Elk Mountains are unparalleled and make it easily the most gorgeous place for a hot springs soak in the state. Of course, such beauty comes with a price, and the U.S. Forest Service in recent years began requiring permits to visit due to overuse. So plan in advance, prepare to spend at least one night camping, and get ready for the soaking experience of a lifetime. Lodging: Camping in designated 26 | Summer Getaways | The Denver Post
backcountry campsites.
What you need to know: Permits
are required to camp, which the vast majority do because of the long hike in. The reservation period for April 1-July 31 has passed, but on June 15 you can start making reservations for August through November. The pools are at timberline, so prepare for extreme weather, and the hike requires a creek crossing that can be dangerous in high water. Since the area is in wilderness, only foot and horse traffic are permitted, and campfires and dogs are not allowed. While you’re there: If the weather is good, a day hike up Triangle Pass will give your sore legs even more work and make the soaking later feel like a sweet reward. More information: recreation.gov/ permits/273336
Orvis Hot Springs
The San Juan Mountains around Ouray, Telluride and Silverton are the most dramatic in Colorado, jagged, forbidding and known as the “American Alps.” Enjoy the view from the comfort of geothermally heated, lithium-rich water at this small resort in the town of Ridgway. With lovingly manicured grounds and several man-made pools of varying sizes and temperatures, it’s a perfect end to a day of exploring this amazing landscape. Clothing is optional outside but required in the visitor center and indoor pool. Be warned: The natural lithium water may lull you into an early night, so plan accordingly. Lodging: Tent campsites, RV parking and a few hotel-style rooms. What you need to know: This is a AU NATUREL » 27
Social nudity etiquette
• Be an adult. Don’t stare. • Clothing optional means just that, “optional,” so don’t give people a hard time if they opt to wear a suit, or conversely, choose not to. • Don’t take photos, especially of people not in your group. Picturetaking is not allowed at some hot springs resorts. • Sit on a towel outside of the water if you’re not getting dressed. Don’t make us explain why that’s a good hygienic practice. • Clothing optional doesn’t mean a swingers club. If being in the buff with your significant other leads to amorous behavior, go to your room or campsite.
AU NATUREL «FROM 26 five-hour drive from Denver, so be sure to make reservations to stay at the hot springs well in advance. Plenty of camping can be found in nearby national forests. While you’re there: If you can pull yourself away from the lithium water, visit Ouray, a charming hamlet in a dramatic box canyon, or take a hike to Blue Lakes, an easy day trip nearby. More information:
orvishotsprings.com
Dakota Hot Springs
Don’t feel like driving to the Western Slope for your naked excursion? Have no fear. This hot springs pool is near Penrose, southwest of Colorado Springs. There’s one large man-made pool, fed by a well that delivers 108-degree water year-round. The hot springs was known as The Well until 2003, although many people still refer to it as such. Lodging: Vehicle and tent campsites. What you need to know: Because of COVID, reservations are required and good for a 10 a.m.–3:30 p.m. or a 4-9:30 p.m. soak session. Children are not allowed. It is closed Mondays. Bathing suits are required on Tuesdays but are optional the rest of the week. While you’re there: Take a tour of the famous Royal Gorge Bridge or a raft trip on the Arkansas River. More information:
dakotahotsprings.com
Desert Reef Hot Springs
These springs near the town of Florence feature one large pool fed by a deep well. The water is kept just below normal body temperature in summer and over 100 degrees in winter. Lodging: None What you need to know: Closed Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursdays. Swimsuits are required on Fridays until 6 p.m. and optional other days. While you’re there: See previous entry. More information:
desertreefhotsprings.com
Take a cold plunge
As I mentioned, natural water in Colorado that doesn’t have a hot spring tends to be very cold. Still, on a sunny afternoon in July, August or September, splashing around in a mountain lake or river can be invigorating. Use your best judgment on whether to wear a swimsuit. If there’s a drive-up campground at the lake or heavy boat traffic on the river, skinny-dipping probably isn’t a great idea. But if you’re on a backpack trip deep into a wilder-
It’s tough to beat the scenery at the aptly named Valley View Hot Springs. R. Scott Rappold, Special to The Denver Post ness area and want to freshen up at a remote mountain lake, other hikers are unlikely to complain if you’re discreet. Remember, the Wilderness Act of
1964 was designed to preserve lands “in their natural condition.” Why shouldn’t we enjoy such places in our natural condition?
Freelance journalist R. Scott Rappold has been writing about hiking, backpacking, skiing and other ways people enjoy the great state of Colorado for more than 15 years. The Denver Post | Summer Getaways | 27
An instructor cheers on a young new river surfer riding the Scout Wave near Salida. Ryan Weigman, Special to The Denver Post
Take a surfing safari this summer Coloradans are shaping river surfing
By Morgan Tilton Special to The Denver Post
Inland surfers are carving waves across Colorado, hundreds of miles from the ocean. On any given summer day, dozens of surfers line up at the Montrose Water Sports Park on the Western Slope and River Run Park in Denver. Surfing whitewater started about a decade ago when stand-up paddleboarders hit the scene looking for a bit more action, but it has evolved. Like ocean surfers, river surfers lie flat on their boards and use an overhand stroke to move through the water, and then pop up to catch a wave. Except, inland surfers are dealing with river hydrology — a different environment compared to catching crests in the big blue. “One thing we get semi-frequently is ocean surfers that are passing through. They’ve heard about river 28 | Summer Getaways | The Denver Post
surfing and want to be safe but don’t understand the river at all,” said Brandon Slate, the adventure specialist at Rocky Mountain Outdoor Center (RMOC) in Buena Vista. Among his duties, Slate is the Learn to Surf program director. “Once we get on the wave with ocean surfers, they’re teaching me how to surf because they’re bad-ass surfers,” he said. “They’re having the same experience but in reverse: They’re seriously blown away they’re actually facing upriver when they surf” our rivers.
Several factors have influenced the trend. For one, the pool of manufacturers developing river-specific surfboards has grown. And a handful of those pioneers are based in the Centennial State. Badfish SUP in Salida was among the earliest companies to create boards for riding river waves, 12 years ago. Hala Gear, located in Steamboat Springs, has since introduced river surfboards. Hydrus Board Tech in Idaho has designed a board called the Montrose Hyper, named after and inspired by the waves at the Montrose Water Sports Park. And this summer, Telluride’s Sol Paddle Boards will debut its inaugural lineup of boards tailored for prone surfers. River surfboard designs have improved, too. Their features have been influenced by a growing demand
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SURFING «FROM 28 for shorter, more streamlined, less buoyant boards, noted Slate, with features like well-defined edges or a rocker profile.
Whitewater parks
Human-made whitewater parks — including those with waves designed specifically for river surfing — are on the rise nationwide. Colorado is home to 30 — the largest number in the world, according to Mike Harvey, the co-founder of Badfish SUP. He’s also a whitewater park builder and has been since 1999, specializing in river surf waves. “Colorado is a headwater state. We tend to have smaller river waves on average — even big rivers here aren’t that big relative to really big rivers in the U.S. “Our rivers are steeper and younger, so there are almost no natural waves that are good for river surfing. They’re almost all human-made,” Harvey explained, then added, “On a good snowmelt year, we have six weeks of high water, which is when we’re getting the very best conditions for river surfing. We also tend to have smaller waves, so you’ll want a board that’s higher volume.” The fact that the whitewater parks are scattered throughout the state helps to increase access and is enabling the sport’s growth. One of the most unique locations for river surfing is Denver’s River Run Park, which features two human-controlled waves. The installation, called the WaveShaper, has several adjustable plates that alter the wave shape. As a result, the wave can remain consistent regardless of the streamflow.
River surf classes
A handful of organizations across the state offer river surfing instruction. The Rocky Mountain Outdoor Center in Buena Vista offers lessons from May to September. Introductory lessons are held on the easiest waves and focus on getting surfers across the eddy line to catch a wave while lying prone. Advanced lessons go a few steps further: Surfers learn how to stand up, as well as how to maneuver side to side and front to back on the tongue of the wave, and also move to more challenging waves. Group size is limited to 10 students, who include eager learners of all ages, genders and ethnicities and come from across the country. During the first classes five or six year ago, half of the students asked to learn how to surf on a paddleboard. Now, nearly all want to learn how to prone surf.
An instructor helps a new river surfer prepare to paddle out to Staircase Wave near Buena Vista. Ethan Lee, Special to The Denver Post
“We learned, too, that it’s easier to teach prone surfing, because crossing the eddy line and getting to the wave standing up is harder,” Slate said. Evolutions in board design benefit new surfers, too. The lessons typically last four hours and leave most students ready for a break and a rest. Learning how to surf requires a ton of energy, Slate said. Salida and Buena Vista are ideal spots for river surf lessons because each town has three primary, consistent waves at their whitewater parks, which are 25 miles apart. “We’re super unique with the variety of waves that we have and the fact that we can river surf at any time: At any water level, we can give a good surf lesson,” Slate said. Montrose Surf and Cycle (formerly Montrose Kayak and Surf) offers complimentary, first-come, first-served river surfboard demo clinics on SURFING » 30
River surfboard rentals
• Altitude Paddleboards, Littleton • Grand Junction Stand Up Paddle Las Colonias Shop, Grand Junction • Confluence Kayaks, Denver • CKS Main Street, Buena Vista • Montrose Surf and Cycle, Montrose • Glenwood Adventure, Glenwood Springs • 4Corners Riversports, Durango
Whitewater Parks
Check Endless Waves Rocky Mountain River Surfing, endlesswaves.net
Community
Join the Colorado River Surfers Facebook group.
Gear
Get a river surfboard, booties, neoprene gloves, wet suit, releasable leash, water sports helmet, PFD. It’s not uncommon for Colorado river surfers to wear a 5.5mm/4mm wet suit (5mm on torso and thighs, 4mm on arms and legs) with a hood all season. Thickness is a personal preference as well as situational (temperature of air and water, surfing at high altitude, need to swim out to waves).
Season
In general, April to October; each wave feature is ideal at a specific river flow.
The Denver Post | Summer Getaways | 29
An instructor steadies the board as a new river surfer prepares to take on the Scout Wave near Salida. Ryan Weigman, Special to The Denver Post
SURFING «FROM 29 Wednesday nights in summer at Montrose Water Sports Park. Hollis Brake, manager of the shop, learned to river surf five years ago at one of the clinics. Twenty people on average attend each clinic, he said, quadruple the number from when he learned. The shop has one of the largest selections of river surfboard rentals in the state. This year, Brake added 10 surfboards to the lineup for a total of 30. He also invested $6,000 in a fleet of 30 | Summer Getaways | The Denver Post
Billabong wet suits to rent to river surfers. “The most popular board I sold was the Montrose XL from Hydrus Board Tech. And I wasn’t able to keep Badfish Inflatable Sk8 in stock, either,” Brake said. “The Montrose XL was so popular because I can teach a 12-year-old and a 55-year-old on that board and they can rip. It doesn’t matter how much you weigh, you can have fun on that design: It’s the training wheels for river surfing. It’s bigger than it needs to be and slower. With hard edges it will turn hard, and it’s a really fun board in all conditions.” SURFING » 31
A newbie river surfer gets a push out into the river from an instructor at the Scout Wave near Salida. Shannon McGowan, Special to The Denver Post
A new river surfer prepares to paddle out into the moving water at the Scout Wave near Salida. Shannon McGowan, Special to The Denver Post
SURFING «FROM 30 You can reserve and rent a board from the shop May through October. The shop also offers private river surf lessons. The Colorado River School and Colorado River Surfing Association have teamed up to organize a youth river surf program for the Chill Foundation, a nonprofit that inspires young people to overcome their challenges, in Denver. Single-day clinics also are held at the annual CKS Paddlefest in Buena Vista (scheduled May 28-31; see updates at ckspaddlefest.com). Retailers statewide offer river surfboard rentals and sales.
Before hitting the water, be sure to wear the appropriate safety gear: releasable leash, water sports helmet and personal flotation device (PFD). “The safety aspect has been a struggle from the beginning with not using life jackets and using non-releasable leashes, because that’s the fashion in ocean surfing. Unfortunately, the percentage of people using the appropriate safety gear does not seem to be trending up,” Slate said. Ocean surfers wear ankle leashes that are non-releasable. River surfers need to wear a releasable leash that clips to their PFD. If a leash gets caught on anything under the surface, the surfer can pull the emergency release to prevent being caught and drowned. PFDs help bring a surfer to the water’s surface, especially important if a river surfer’s energy is drained trying to catch an eddy or if they’re pulled through
rapids below a wave. Unfortunately, they are not popular with surfers, in part due to the fit. “PFDs are not as comfortable when you’re lying prone, but those designs are evolving. We are starting to see buoyancy built into wet suits to make it more appealing,” Slate said. A rack with free-to-use PFDs was installed at the Buena Vista River Park and Salida’s Coors Boat Ramp last summer. “River surfing has a broad appeal, because lots of people like surfing: It’s American and iconic in our culture. You don’t need a lot of gear,” Harvey said. “It’s become way less niche and more mainstream and Colorado is the epicenter.” Morgan Tilton is a Colorado-based, award-winning outdoors and travel writer. The Denver Post | Summer Getaways | 31
The Dillon Pinnacles are seen at Blue Mesa Reservoir on Aug. 6, 2019. RJ Sangosti, Denver Post file
6 ways to explore Curecanti National Recreation Area By Morgan Tilton Special to The Denver Post
My feet crunch atop tiny pebbles as I move through the hillside of rolling sagebrush. The sunlight warms my hairline. Below me, the rich navy body of Blue Mesa glitters beneath a cirque of snow-capped desert peaks. A few minutes into my trail run, an imposing queue of 600-foot hoodoos comes into view, filling the horizon of the water’s northern shore. I understand why this singletrack trail is named after the 30-million-year-old formation Dillon Pinnacles. The 4-mile route meanders into a small glen and up to a mesa beneath the volcanic rock. From the high point, I can see the San Juan Mountains, which poke 32 | Summer Getaways | The Denver Post
above the mesa like shark fins piercing the surface of the sea. Having grown up in the region, I’m amazed by the amount of water below and how refreshing it is. Curecanti National Recreation Area offers a unique opportunity for paddlers and boaters to find rejuvena-
tion and solitude alongside bird watchers and hikers. The number of visitors here pales in comparison to the state’s more popular spots: 900,000 annual travelers venture through this giant recreation area compared to Rocky Mountain National Park’s 4.7 million. Beyond hoodoos and glistening water, this 43,000acre gem is chock-full of high-desert trails and deep ravines. In fact, the longest section of the Black Canyon resides in Curecanti: 19 miles, which is five miles more than the section of the gorge that’s designated as a national park. Visitors can explore historic exhibits, hike, fish, wind surf, sail, beach lounge and stay at hundreds of campsites, many of which can be reserved. Here are a handful of ways to enjoy Curecanti.
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CURECANTI «FROM 32 Multiday paddle on Morrow Point Reservoir
At the Pine Creek trailhead, 29 miles west of Gunnison, park your rig and then hike your watercraft and overnight gear 1 mile down 232 stairs to the glassy Morrow Point Reservoir, which connects Blue Mesa Reservoir to Crystal Reservoir. After the first .5-mile of swift current, the 11-mile stretch of water is calm and dwarfed by the magnificent, 1,800-foot-high walls of the Black Canyon. The rock’s rough, chossy surface is a canvas full of charcoal, apricot and moss tones. Steeply angled shelves are clung to by Douglas fir, sagebrush and juniper trees. The only sounds you’re likely to hear are the rapid, twittering song of black swifts and the crashing water of Chipeta Falls. Before you paddle westward, fill out a free, back-
country use permit at the trailhead. Choose one of the six campsites (Hermit’s Rest and Curecanti Creek have vault toilets) to arrange a water-side shelter on the sandy crescents. You’ll be surrounded by water but don’t forget to take a filter to remove viruses, bacteria, sediment and more from the water before consuming it. Forewarning: The approach to this paddle trip is not for the faint of heart but the rewards are unforgettable.
Listen to the birds
From the woodlands to the sagebrush scrub and riparian zones, Curecanti offers habitat for a range of feathered creatures. Lined with cottonwoods, the Neversink trail holds a great blue heron rookery and is home to robins, redwinged black birds, woodpeckers, yellow warblers, and hummingbirds. Brown creepers and nuthatches peruse the bark for bugs. In winter, birders can spy bald eagles and American dippers, which dunk into the Gunnison River for treats.
Venture north of Morrowpoint Reservoir on Colorado 92 to peer off the Black Canyon’s zig-zagging rim. Keep your eyes open for speedy peregrine falcons, which dive up to 186 mph. Other birds that occupy the canyon include swifts, swallows, turkey vultures, black-billed magpies, red-tailed hawks and western bluebirds. Blue Mesa Reservoir is home to three basins — Sapinero, Cebolla and Iola — that are landing grounds for great blue heron, western grebes and mergansers. Look along the banks for wading birds including sandpipers, phalaropes and gulls. And a migration of sandhill cranes moves through the area each winter and spring. While hiking in the sagebrush, such as along Dillon Pinnacles trail, watch for the Gunnison sage-grouse, a native bird that is protected under the Endangered Species Act. To help support the sage grouse and other wildlife, keep four-legged friends leashed while exploring the area.
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People play at the beach at Blue Mesa Reservoir on Aug. 6, 2019. RJ Sangosti, Denver Post file
The Denver Post | Summer Getaways | 33
At the Pine Creek trailhead, 29 miles west of Gunnison, you hike your rig and gear a mile down 232 stairs to the glassy, refreshing edge of the Morrow Point Reservoir, which connects Blue Mesa Reservoir to Crystal Reservoir. Eric Phillips, Special to The Denver Post
CURECANTI «FROM 33 Visit the Cimarron Canyon Rail Exhibit
History buffs definitely need to stop at the Cimarron Canyon Rail Exhibit, a 10-year restoration effort on the west side of Curecanti and adjacent to Morrow Point Dam. Turn off U.S. 50 into Cimarron, which started as a tent city during the construction of the Denver & Rio Grande Western Railroad. Soon, the cluster burgeoned into a town of 250 residents who supported the train industry. Today’s outdoor exhibit includes an 1886 caboose, 1904 boxcar, a coal tender from 1935 and locomotive 278, the 1882 engine that ran on this railroad for close to 70 years. My favorite part of the display is the trestle, a 288foot steel deck bridge that hangs over Cimarron 34 | Summer Getaways | The Denver Post
Creek, surrounded by the towering canyon. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the trestle is the sole surviving structure of the ravine’s narrow gauge railroad. When the railroad line from Gunnison to Montrose was retired in 1949, the segment through the canyon, which included nine bridges, became a public road until Blue Mesa Dam was built in the 1960s. After checking out the relics, take a hike on Mesa Creek trail. The 1.5-mile out-and-back route meanders along the north shore of Crystal Reservoir and features a picnic area. Campers can stay overnight at the first-come, first-served sites ($16/night), which rarely fill up, surrounded by giant cottonwoods.
Camp at Elk Creek Campground and SUP Blue Mesa
At 7,540 feet, Elk Creek Campground offers bird’seye views of the rolling sagebrush-speckled slopes juxtaposed with the gleaming cobalt face of Blue Mesa, an idyllic perch to watch the sunset.
You can walk to the water’s edge from your campsite. Or for a beach and SUP day, drive a few minutes to the Bay of Chickens or Dry Creek to picnic and paddle. Beyond Elk Creek, another nine drive-up campgrounds decorate Curecanti (with a total of 385 sites, many can be reserved online). They offer electric hookups for RVs, flats for tents, and parking for popup trailers. For boaters, Blue Mesa boasts 96 miles of shoreline with nine fee-free designated boat campsites with vault toilets and metal fire rings. Boaters also can disperse-camp along the southern and western shores or on Red Creek Island. Dispersed sites need to be established at least a half mile from any bridge, road, developed area and other backcountry campsite. Given the transition of dispersed to designated camping around Crested Butte, which begins this summer, Curecanti offers great options for reservable camping during summer and early fall.
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CURECANTI «FROM 34 Go hiking/backpacking in the Black Canyon
There are seven established trails. Dillon Pinnacles is an ideal hike for spring and fall when the temperatures are cooler. “Curecanti Creek is my favorite hike, which goes down into the Douglas firs and spruce, so you get shade,” said Matt Johnson, district interpreter and volunteer coordinator of Curecanti National Recreation Area. The 4-mile hike delivers an elevation change of 900 feet. Explorers can extend their trip by backpacking, as there’s a single campsite, likewise dubbed Curecanti Creek, surrounded by steep cliffs at the trail’s end. Note: Backcountry use permits are free of charge, required and available at Pine Creek trailhead. Johnson added, “You start off in the sun and go down next to Curecanti Creek, so you have the sound of water for much the way. It goes all the way down to Morrow Point Reservoir, right down to the water, and goes past waterfalls. John Wesley Powell said, ‘The Grand Canyon is a land of song. Mountains of music swell in the rivers.’ For me, that’s true. I like to hear that sound.”
Enjoy a Morrow Point Canyon boat tour
This leisurely out-and-back pontoon float takes visitors into the depths of the Black Canyon, past the resounding Chipeta Falls, and through the shadows of the Curecanti Needle. The awe-inspiring granite spire was the logo of the Denver & Rio Grande Western Railroad in 1882. Known as the Scenic Line of the World, the 15-mile segment of railroad precariously rolled passengers alongside the roaring Gunnison River near the bottom of the 2,000-foot, sheer gorge walls. Despite facing countless avalanches and rock falls, the operation withstood nearly seven decades offering scenic rides, hauling livestock and transporting ore. The boat tour will dive into
After the first half mile of swift current in Morrow Point Reservoir, the 11-mile stretch of water is calm and dwarfed by the 1,800foot-high walls of the Black Canyon. Morgan Tilton, Special to The Denver Post more railroad tales as well as stories of the canyon’s geology, wildlife, inhabitants and water management initiatives. Visitors can park at the Pine Creek trailhead, 29 miles west
of Gunnison, and descend 232 stairs to the water’s south side. Meander 1 mile on a smooth dirt path — which follows the ancient narrow gauge railroad bed — to the Pine Creek boat
dock, where tourists climb aboard for the 90-minute ride. Note: The tours are canceled for summer, due to the Pine Creek Dock renovation and U.S. 50 road construction, but
typically operate from June to mid-September; $13-$25. Morgan Tilton is a Coloradobased freelance writer and avid explorer of the outdoors.
The Denver Post | Summer Getaways | 35
Independent Monument is one of many striking sights from the trails and roads within Colorado National Monument. Photos by Hyoung Chang, The Denver Post
Great adventures without great crowds By Sarah Lamagna Special to The Denver Post
Locals and tourists alike know the majesty of Dream Lake at Rocky Mountain National Park and the fun of surfing the sandy hills at Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve. But did you know that Colorado has petrified redwoods? Or that it’s got a place akin to Machu Picchu? Or cliff dwellings that aren’t in Mesa Verde? It’s true! They’re all found in the Centennial State’s national monuments. 36 | Summer Getaways | The Denver Post
MONUMENTS » 37
A rock that might remind you of a man’s profile is seen along Devil’s Kitchen Trail in Colorado National Monument.
Visitors explore a great house at Chimney Rock National Monument. Dan Leeth, Special to The Denver Post, file
MONUMENTS «FROM 36 Colorado is home to eight national monuments that pack quite a punch. Yet, they are some of the least-visited areas in the state. So skip the crowds at the national parks this year and check out our lesstrafficked monuments.
Petrified forests, prehistoric spiders
Back in the Eocene era (about 35 mil-
lion years ago), Lake Florissant stretched a mile wide and 12.5 miles long. Now, Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument in Teller County is home to one of the richest and most diverse fossil deposits in the world. It holds the secrets of the landscape and life that existed in prehistoric times. Peel back some of those secrets by taking a stroll on these trails. Petrified Forest Loop Length: 1.1 miles Elevation gain: 80 feet Difficulty: Easy Wheelchairs and strollers have a generally easy time traversing this loop
with 3-foot-wide paths and little elevation gain. Get up close and personal with a 14-foot-wide petrified redwood stump, one of at least 30 around the monument. There are others, but there are no plans to excavate them. In fact, some were reburied in the 1980s to preserve them from weathering. Hornbeck Wildlife Loop Length: 3.6 miles Elevation gain: 500 feet Difficulty: Easy This trail traverses open meadows and rock outcroppings making it perfect for wildlife viewing. Elk, golden
eagles, prairie falcons, great horned owls, hummingbirds, bobcats, coyotes, red foxes and pronghorn are just a few of the animals you’re likely to see along this loop. Remember the sixth Leave No Trace principle: Respect wildlife and their habitat.
Walk among prehistoric giants
Although most of Dinosaur National Monument is in Moffat County, you must cross into Utah to see the fossils. This ancient ocean houses hundreds of dinosaur fossils waiting to be discovered.
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The Denver Post | Summer Getaways | 37
MONUMENTS «FROM 37 To examine some of those recovered, head to Quarry Exhibit Hall. For an adventure, get outside and walk where dinosaurs once roamed. Jones Hole Trail Length: 8 miles Elevation gain: 650 feet Difficulty: Easy to moderate One of the more remote trails in the national monument, Jones Hole is full of surprises. Take a fishing rod for the on-site hatchery and your camera to snap photos of the abundant wildlife, including bighorn sheep. You’ll see pictographs along the trail (not to be confused with petroglyphs — images scratched or engraved onto rock). Sound of Silence Trail Length: 3.0 miles Elevation gain: 325 feet Difficulty: Easy If you only have time for one trail, make sure it’s this one. With plenty of petroglyphs along the way, this trail also offers dramatic, sweeping views of the monument’s most recognizable features including Split Mountain. Add the Desert Voices trail to make a 4.5mile loop.
Stargaze inside a castle
Chances are you’ve never heard of Hovenweep National Monument, a true gem that was home to more than 2,500 ancestral Puebloans about 800 years ago. Because of its remote location, this is a Dark Sky site. Hike during the day and stargaze at night. Hovenweep Ruins Trail Length: 1.6 miles Elevation gain: 150 feet Difficulty: Easy This trail winds through the ruins of the ancestral Puebloan people, with vast views of the landscape including the iconic square towers. The aptly named Hovenweep Castle is a sight to see.
Cliff dwellings without the crowds
You’ve probably heard of, if not visited, the famed cliff dwellings in Mesa Verde National Park. But a less-visited area holds the highest known density of archaeological sites in the United States. Canyons of the Ancients National Monument is the only monument managed by the Bureau of Land Management in Colorado, which means there’s a little more leniency on trail restrictions. Dogs are even allowed on our favorite trail! Beware, there are no water features along the trail so take water to stay hydrated. Sand Canyon Trail Length: 12.5 miles Elevation gain: 2,000 feet 38 | Summer Getaways | The Denver Post
Visitors to Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument explore petrified redwood stumps as large as a car, as well as fossils of plants and animals. Hyoung Chang, Denver Post file Difficulty: Moderate to difficult This incredible trail brings you back in time as you pass through at least eight significant cliff dwellings and pueblos. As you walk along the path, several other visitors have placed bits of ancient pottery and other items on stumps for your pleasure. Make sure to follow the fourth Leave No Trace principle: Leave what you find.
Colorado’s Machu Picchu
One of the smaller national monuments, Chimney Rock National Monument encompasses just under 5,000 acres. The area is home to eight clusters of architectural structures, includ-
ing great kivas, pit houses and great houses. Chimney Rock Trail Length: 0.6 miles (summer trailhead) Elevation gain: 150 feet Difficulty: Easy This noticeably short trail ends with 360-degree views. It ascends an exposed ridgeline with steep drop-offs to a restored 800-year-old Chacoan religious complex. Like we said, it’s Colorado’s version of Machu Picchu, minus the llamas and expensive plane ticket.
Get the adrenaline pumping
As one of the newer national monuments (designated in 2015), Browns
Canyon has more than 20,000 acres of pristine rivers, breathtaking canyons and dense forest. If you don’t want to venture on the trails, try whitewater that’s a favorite of boaters and anglers. Turret Trail Length: 6.8 miles Elevation gain: 1,100 feet Difficulty: Moderate You’re rewarded with sweeping views of the Arkansas Valley, the Collegiate Peaks, and the Arkansas River on the trail. It’s perfect for hikers of all ages and is a locals’ favorite at sunrise. Feel free to take Fido; this a dog-friendly hike.
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MONUMENTS «FROM 38 Colorado’s Grand Canyon
Colorado National Monument preserves some of the most incredible geological features in the country. It has the same personality as many of the national parks on the Colorado Plateau, without all the visitors. Although Rim Rock Drive is a beautiful 23-
mile traverse in your car, we suggest heading out on foot. Devils Kitchen Trail Length: 1.6 miles Elevation gain: 400 feet Difficulty: Easy to moderate This trail leads you deep into the valley below the towering cliffs and orange hoodoos reminiscent of Bryce Canyon National Park. Be careful to stay on trail, though, or you might step on a prickly pear, a low-growing cactus with beautiful springtime blooms.
Monument Canyon Loop Trail Length: 4.5 miles Elevation gain: 800 feet Difficulty: Easy to moderate Travel through some of the most iconic features in the monument along this trail. Grab a smooch from your partner while overlooking Kissing Couple, or stop for a snack at the base of Mushroom Rock. Sarah Lamagna is an avid hiker and advocate of getting more people outside exploring Colorado responsibly.
Hikers in Browns Canyon National Monument are rewarded with views of Mount Princeton and the Collegiate Peaks. Scott Willoughby, Denver Post file The Denver Post | Summer Getaways | 39
Wildflowers are in full bloom on June 26, 2020, in Crested Butte. Visit in July for the Wildflower Festival to enjoy the area in its summer splendor. RJ Sangosti, Denver Post file
Time to smell the flowers, savor corn as festivals return MAY
By Dena Rosenberry The Denver Post
It seems much longer than two years ago that I spent a summer listening to live music under the stars, sharing stories around a campfire with strangers, browsing artists’ wares at a park, and sampling fresh honey and deep-fried something at the state fair. We’ve been through a lot in this pandemic. I’m ready to enjoy all our state has to offer — in the company of loved ones. I know you are, too. Here’s a sampling of some favorite gatherings. Keep your face mask handy, my friends, but also circle these dates on your calendar and buy tickets 40 | Summer Getaways | The Denver Post
where necessary, because Colorado is back open for fun this summer! Note: Check for updates on event details ahead of time; all events are subject to change in respect of current health and safety guidelines.
May 28-30 MeadowGrass Music Festival. You’ll hear top-notch performers and enjoy the laid-back Colorado vibe at MeadowGrass, a music festival that’s been bringing incredible national and regional artists to Colorado Springs for more than 10 years. In addition to tons of live music, you can camp in the forest, join yoga classes, attend music workshops and just plain relax. There are activities for kids through the weekend (kids 12 and younger get in free with a paying adult). This year also marks the second annual beer tasting. meadowgrass.org FESTIVALS » 41
Dillon Corcoran, left, Jackson Porter, and Wyatt Porter, show their excitement while enjoying a carnival ride during the 2019 Boulder Creek Festival. The annual weekend of fun will move from Memorial Day weekend to July this year. Jeremy Papasso, Daily Camera file
FESTIVALS «FROM 40 JUNE
June 5 Greeley Blues Jam. Plan to groove all day in a family-oriented atmosphere with a lineup expected to include Johnny Sansone, Erica Brown & the Cast Iron Queens and King Cake. Sample craft beers and join a whiskey and cigar tasting, pick up some food and browse among vendors. The music festival is endorsed by Joe Bonamassa’s Keeping the Blues Alive Foundation. greeleybluesjam.org June 17-20 FIBArk Whitewater Festival. People from all over the world come to Salida to kick off the whitewater season at FIBArk, with fun on and off the Arkansas River. Out of concern for community health, this year’s
festival will not include a carnival or vendors. But you’ll have a good time, all the same. (In case you were wondering, the name is an abbreviation of the event’s original name, “First in Boating on the Arkansas.”) fibark.com June 11-13, 17-20 Telluride Bluegrass Festival. Plan a relaxing weekend at the foot of the San Juan Mountains grooving to incredible musicians with a few thousand of your newest friends. Entry is capped at 2,500 people per day this year and “festivarians” will be socially distanced in self-selected corrals of 10. There will be limited camping, but grab a spot and, oh, the view! Rollover tickets from 2020 have precedence at this infamous gathering, now in its 47th year. bluegrass.com/telluride June 25&26 Vail Craft Beer Classic. This weekend in the Rockies is way more than a beer festival; it’s a chance to nerd out on all things beer. Compare sips with those around you and quiz the brewers and experts milling
around. New this year: Try an extensive selection of craft ciders and seltzers. Buy a ticket for a session or a full day. You’ll select samples and then huddle with your crew to compare notes, distanced from others. vailcraftbeerclassic.com June 24-July 4 Greeley Stampede. Get ready to shake it to 3 Doors Down, TobyMac, Dwight Yoakam, Dylan Scott and Hardy & Lauren Alaina at this year’s Stampede. And if that’s not enough — and why stop there? — catch the rodeo, American bull fighting (no swords!), demolition derby, parade and fireworks, carnival, Western art show and Big Buckle Ball, to name just a few ways to stay busy. greeleystampede.org June 24-27 Telluride Yoga Festival. An entire weekend dedicated to yoga, meditation, music and community, set against the backdrop of the stunning San Juan Mountains — could there be anything more appealing? This
FESTIVALS » 42
The Denver Post | Summer Getaways | 41
Professional rodeo rider Tyler Bingham competes in bull riding during the 2019 Greeley Stampede at Island Grove Regional Park. Hyoung Chang, Denver Post file
FESTIVALS «FROM 41 four-day event will give you a chance to connect with other yogis at more than 100 events. tellurideyogafestival.com June 25-27 Colorado Lavender Festival. The folks in Palisade dedicate an entire weekend to celebrating lavender, the purple herb that inspires calm, peaceful feelings with its heavenly aroma. Events include self-guided farm tours, demonstrations, educational seminars and lots of vendors with artisan products at a festival in Riverbend Park. Tickets are required this year. coloradolavender.org/annual-lavender-festival
JULY
July 9-18 Crested Butte Wildflower Festival. The wildflowers are absolute42 | Summer Getaways | The Denver Post
ly beautiful in Crested Butte, which is one reason why there’s an entire festival dedicated to them. This 10-day event, which seeks to preserve and protect wildflowers, features more than 200 workshops, classes, tours and children’s activities. Topics include wildflower photography, gardening, cooking, medicines and sketching, with hikes galore. Register online. crestedbuttewildflowerfestival.com July 23-25 RockyGrass Festival. This gem of a gathering in Lyons, known for hosting some of the most talented musicians and entertainers on the planet, is back. But, well, the details were still being worked out at press time. Check the website for schedule, ticket and camping updates. bluegrass.com/rockygrass July 8-11 High Mountain Hay Fever Festival. Bluegrass is hip, and this fest is back for another year of music, workshops, food vendors and camping in the sweet little FESTIVALS » 43
Boaters take part in the raft rodeo during the Royal Gorge Whitewater Festival on June 22, 2019. Daily Record file photo
FESTIVALS «FROM 42 mountain town of Westcliffe. Confirmed artists for 2021 include Sons and Brothers, Orchard Creek Band and The Blue Canyon Boys. You can still get a fourday pass for $70 (kids 12 and younger, free). highmountainhayfever.org July 16-18 Boulder Creek Festival. Take a midsummer break and head to Boulder for carnival rides, a fine arts expo, fitness classes, a makers market, live music and community performances. There are tons of activities geared toward kids, so plan a meet-up with your kids’ best buddies. bouldercreekfest.com July 10&11 Hot Air Balloon Rodeo and Art in the Park. How about a two-for-one festival special? That’s what you’ll get when you head to Steamboat Springs for a
weekend full of hot air balloons and art. After you watch the multi-colored balloons drift overhead in the 40th annual rodeo, skip over to the 46th annual art festival for children’s art activities, food, live entertainment and works from nearly 150 artists. Don’t forget to catch the balloon glow at sundown. steamboatchamber.com/signatureevents/hot-air-balloon-rodeo July 23&24 Royal Gorge Whitewater Festival. The 12th annual festival will feature whitewater competitions — including a Build Your Own Boat race — and landbased recreation — including a 27K gravel ride — in and around Cañon City’s Centennial Park. It’s a mix of boats, bands and beer that is not to be missed. Proceeds benefit the town’s whitewater park, river restoration, and community causes. royalgorgewhitewaterfestival.com July 23-25 Mountain Fair. What started as a small festival with 20 booths in Carbondale in 1971 has ballooned into an im-
pressive three-day event with more than 145 artists and vendors, live music, kids activities and fun contests. Organizers tout it as a “music, art, pie-bakin’, woodsplittin’, fly-castin’, belly-dancin’, funlovin’ festival.” What’s not to like? carbondalearts.com/mountain-fair July 30-Aug. 9 Vail Dance Festival. This two-week festival is the ultimate celebration of dance and artistry. Live performances in the wonderful Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater include solo and group ballet and modern dance. Calvin Royal III is artistin-residence and BalletX is company-inresidence this summer. vaildance.org
AUGUST
Aug. 19-21 Palisade Peach Festival. If the mere thought of a juicy Palisade peach makes your mouth water, you won’t want to skip the 53rd annual peach festival, which celebrates the delicious fruit in all its glory. You’ll find plenty to do, including peach orchard tours, cooking contests, live music, and more. Stay over-
night Saturday and hit the local farmers market Sunday morning for all things fresh. palisadepeachfest.com Aug. 6-8 Rocky Mountain Folks Festival. Set aside this weekend for a smile-inducing lineup of eclectic music — and we mean that in the best way. Organizers always bring a great mash-up of musicians to Lyons for this gathering. Check the website for updates, as plans were still firming at press time. bluegrass.com/folks Aug. 27-Sept. 6 Colorado State Fair. Go ahead and treat yourself to a funnel cake — we won’t tell anyone. Set aside a day, or two, for carnival rides, competitions, tasty fried foods and live entertainment including shows by Nelly, Jon Pardi and George Thorogood. Oh yeah, and a slew of rodeo events, a demolition derby and a monster truck show. coloradostatefair.com
FESTIVALS » 44
Alan Raff, 10, of Nunn, spends time with his pal, Wart, a goat, at the Colorado State Fairgrounds on Aug. 26, 2020. Alan was showing Wart in the Junior Livestock Market Goat Show. Andy Cross, Denver Post file The Denver Post | Summer Getaways | 43
FESTIVALS «FROM 43 Aug. 28&29 Manitou Springs Wine Festival. Spend an afternoon sipping wines at this annual festival at the foot of Pikes Peak. There’ll be tastings from dozens of wineries, live music, food to munch and vendors dotting beautiful Memorial Park. Ticket price includes a wine tote in addition to your free festival wine glass. manitousprings.org/manitou -springs-colorado-wine-festival
SEPTEMBER
Sept. 2-6 Rocky Mountain Star Stare. This premiere star party, sponsored by the Colorado Springs Astronomical Society, features prime dark-sky observing, scientific speakers, kids activities and more — all at 7,600 feet. Camping is available. rmss.org Sept. 3-5 Four Corners Folk Festival. This year marks the 25th for this festival, which lures tons of folk artists to Pagosa Springs each year. You can camp under the stars during this music-filled threeday event, grab food from vendors and shop booths featuring handmade items and other merch. “Keep calm and folk on!” folkwest.com Sept. 3-5 Jazz Aspen Snowmass’ Labor Day Experience. There are some big-name performers coming to Snowmass over Labor Day weekend: Stevie Nicks, Eric Church, Kings of Leon, Maren Morris and special guests (keep checking for names). If that isn’t enough, there’s that spectacular view, too. And tasty food and beverages, of course. jazzaspensnowmass.org Sept. 4-6 A Taste of Colorado. The Downtown Denver Partnership promises a long weekend of fun at this year’s festival. Expect three days of free concerts, art displays, crafts and plenty to eat and drink. And there’ll be plenty for the kids, don’t you worry. Check the website all summer for updates. atasteofcolorado.com Sept. 4&5 Summerfest. Evergreen is planning its 41st annual summer party of jury-selected fine arts and crafts, live music, activities, delicious food and micro brews for sipping. evergreenarts.org Sept. 4-6 Cherry Creek Arts Festival. In years past, some 350,000 people gathered at this festival for live music, food and beverages and exhibits from more than 260 juried artists. This year’s event will be held on the creekside area of Cherry Creek Shopping Center to help provide more space. Make sure to check out the 44 | Summer Getaways | The Denver Post
A woman admires the work of multimedia artist Dolan Geiman at the Cherry Creek Arts Festival in 2019. The popular event is moving from its usual Fourth of July weekend to Labor Day weekend this year. Helen H. Richardson, Denver Post file ARTivity Avenue for interactive fun. cherrycreekartsfestival.org Sept. 4-6 Labor Day Lift Off. This balloon and fun festival once again will take over Memorial Park near downtown Colorado Springs. Enjoy sunrise lift offs, sunset balloon glows, vendors, live music and even balloon rides. Entry is free. coloradospringslabordayliftoff.com Longs Peak Scottish-Irish Highland Festival. Whether you’re Scottish or Irish or both or neither, you’ll have fun at this festival celebrating all things Celtic. In addition to folk concerts and a parade through downtown Estes Park, there’s also Scottish Highland athletics, jousting, pipe band competitions, dog agility and sheep-herding exhibitions and an international tattoo. scotfest.com Sept. 10-12 Boulder Fall Fest. Close out an incredible summer with a visit to downtown Boulder. There’ll be children’s activities, the Firefly Handmade Market, food, beer and live music. boulderdowntown.com/events/fall-fest Sept. 17-19 Telluride Blues & Brews Festival. Another fun way to celebrate the changing of the seasons? This annual celebration of music and libations in Telluride.
It’s serious, good fun over three days, with music and tasty beers, yoga mornings and campfire evenings. Watch for updates online as bookings firm up. tellurideblues.com Sept. 18&19 Denver Arts Festival. The fest is in its 22nd year of supporting the arts. That means you’ll be able to appreciate the work of dozens of local and national artists and enjoy live music in Central Park. Look for a kids art zone, a wine and beer garden, and more. denverartsfestival.com Sept. 25&26 Colorado Dragon Boat Festival. This Denver festival has been going strong since 2001. Normally held in July at Sloan’s Lake, and attracting dragon boat teams from across the United States, the event was bumped to summer’s end for health and safety reasons. Come for the racing and stay for the food, art exhibits, dancing, martial arts exhibitions and more. cdbf.org Note: A handful of events we’d hoped to include on this list are still tentative, as organizers weigh health and safety options. It’s worth checking to see if these activities, which we know to be tons of fun, get the go-ahead.
June 26&27 Bacon and Bourbon Festival. What else do you need to know? In fact, in addition to bacon and bourbon expect live music and kids activities. keystonefestivals.com/festivals/baconand-bourbon-festival July 12-14 Keystone Wine and Jazz Festival. You can taste more than 300 wines at this three-day event (key word being taste, because that’s a lot of wine). keystonefestivals.com/festivals/wineand-jazz Aug. 3 Olathe Sweet Corn Festival. This one-day event usually features tons of family fun. And tons of corn, prepared and served up in all sorts of ways. olathesweetcornfest.com Organizers have already postponed some popular events to 2022, including Territory Days in Colorado Springs, Parker Days, the Colorado BBQ Challenge in Frisco, Strawberry Days in Glenwood Springs, the Colorado Brewers’ Festival in Fort Collins, Buffalo Bill Days in Golden, and Boom Days in Leadville. Support these and other small towns when you can this summer. And dream of how much fun is in store next year! Dena Rosenberry will see you on the trails and on the festival grounds.
©CPW
The Amigo Motor Lodge in Salida has been renovated for today’s travelers. It has 16 rooms plus five bookable, decked-out Airstream trailers. Anthony Barlich, Provided by Amigo Motor Lodge
Roadside motels are cool again Amigo Motor Lodge
By Brittany Anas Special to The Denver Post
With a spotlight on their bright neon signs, rattan swing chairs, curated succulents and Pendleton blankets, a new generation of roadside motels in Colorado is replacing the tired rest spots of yesteryear. This time around, they’re borrowing a page from design-forward boutique hotels. “Millennial travelers are cost-conscious and very experience-focused, so that’s one reason we’re seeing these boutique motels become popular,” says David Corsun, director and associate professor at the Fritz Knoebel School of Hospitality Management at the University of Denver. There’s also the pandemic, with its emphasis on social distancing and not sharing your airspace with others. Suddenly the interior corridors of hotels seemed more dangerous than the exterior entry of motels popularized with the interstate high46 | Summer Getaways | The Denver Post
way system. The pandemic-inspired revival of the Great American Road Trip also gave motels more mileage. Plus, today’s motel owners find that older travelers enjoy the nostalgia of their renovated kitchenettes and motor courts. Combined, all of these factors have set into motion a full-on revival of the roadside motel. Arty and hip, the modern-day boutique motel is bidding for a spot on your Instagram grid and can offer a low-cost alternative to cookie-cutter hotels. Here’s five fun ones to check out in Colorado:
Salida No corporate approval is needed for the quippy messages that Amigo Motor Lodge pops up on its roadside marquee along U.S. 50 in Salida. Among the greatest hits? “Rooms by the Hour / 24 Hour Minimum” “Come on and Salida a Little Closer” “Conveniently Located Between a Bank and Gun Shop” “We don’t need to advertise that we have a color TV in this day and age, so we just have fun with our signs,” says owner Philip Sterling, whose title, according to his email signature, is manager/janitor. The Amigo Motor Lodge has 16 rooms plus five bookable Airstreams. With 60-year-old bones, rooms are individually designed with minimalist Southwest decor and they’re outfitted with Malin + Goetz toiletries and Tuft and Needle mattresses. Amigo also has a hot tub, sunroom and fire pits.
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MOTELS «FROM 46 “It’s not just 30-year-old cool people from Denver who are staying here,” Sterling says. “We have an eclectic mix of guests. For some, there’s some nostalgia involved.” In the summer, Amigo is a base camp for quintessential Colorado adventures like rafting, mountain biking, and day trips to the state’s most epic sandbox, the Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve. The motel is a mile from downtown. Amigo Motor Lodge, from $100, 7350 U.S. 50, Salida, 719-539-6733, stayamigo.com.
Nightingale Motel
Pagosa Springs Prior to opening the Nightingale Motel in 2019, Annie Castillo DeMille and her husband, Tony, ran a glamping retreat near Joshua Tree National Park in California. When they moved to Pagosa Springs, where Annie grew up, they wanted to replicate the communal feel of glamping, and manage to do so in a four seasons location. The Pinewood, a run-down motel, happened to be for sale. “We walked through it and I said ‘I think this is it,’ ” Castillo DeMille says. MOTELS » 48
You can enjoy a meal and the beverage of your choice at the Neon Mallard, the renovated bar and lounge at the Nightingale Motel in Pagosa Springs. Kierstan Renner, Provided by Nightingale Motel
The Amigo Motor Lodge in Salida features a hot tub, fire pits and sunroom. The rooms are outfitted with Malin + Goetz toiletries and Tuft and Needle mattresses. Anthony Barlich, Provided by Amigo Motor Lodge
The Denver Post | Summer Getaways | 47
For your next Colorado wine country getaway, check into the 1950s Spoke and Vine Motel in Palisade, reinvented in 2019. It has cruiser bikes for rent. Garner Co. Photography, Provided by Spoke and Vine
MOTELS «FROM 47 Gutted and renovated, the 17-room Nightingale Motel made its debut with outdoor fire pits accompanied by a handsome new on-site bar called the Neon Mallard (notice the avian theme?). A neon sign attached to a street lamp once again glows outside. Inside the rooms, pine wall paneling and Eames chairs are subtle nods to a mid-century modern aesthetic. “My husband and I are both design nerds who have a love for architecture,” Castillo DeMille says. Perched on the San Juan River, the Nightingale feels connected to nature 48 | Summer Getaways | The Denver Post
in a way that’s reminiscent of glamping, Castillo DeMille says. Across the street, Pagosa Mountain Sports rents out tubes so guests can enjoy a float on the river. Save room on your itinerary for a summertime soak in the nearby hot springs, which holds the record for the world’s deepest geothermal hot spring, measured at 1,002 feet deep. The Nightingale Motel, from $130, 157 Pagosa St., Pagosa Springs, 970-507-0121, thenightingalemotel.com
Mellow Moon Lodge
Del Norte With an eye for design and a background in fashion, Jessica Lovelace saw potential in the old El Rancho site despite the motel having been abandoned
for two decades. As evidence that it had been forgotten, grass was sprouting through the floors when she toured the site in 2018. She lovingly brought the 1940s motel back to life, named it Mellow Moon Lodge, and opened in 2019 as a 10-bedroom eco-friendly boutique motel. Another five rooms are opening this summer. Because of the dog-friendly motel’s proximity to Wolf Creek Ski Area, mountain biking trails and the Rio Grande River, Lovelace wanted to incorporate a design that wasn’t too precious. The indigo-dyed sheets, hardwood floors, woven chairs and a crisp black-and-white exterior design have made Mellow Moon a photo-worthy destination.
“We’re getting the Instagram crowds who come and do photo shoots,” Lovelace says. “It’s a happy accident. It wasn’t our intention.” Mellow Moon Lodge, from $130, 1160 Grand Ave., Del Norte, 719-207-0747, mellowmoonlodge.com
Spoke and Vine Motel
Palisade For your next wine country getaway, check into Spoke and Vine, a 1950s-era motel that was reinvented in 2019. You can rent a cruiser bike from the property to get you to the nearby wineries and the husband-and-wife team who own and operate the motel will gladly make recommendations for where to go while you’re in town.
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The LOGE Breckenridge is a revamped motel with 38 rooms and a 20-bed hostel. The rooms are geared toward adventure-seekers, with storage for bikes, skis, snowboards and other gear. Liam Doran, Provided by LOGE Breckenridge
A room at the Mellow Moon Lodge in Del Norte includes a small refrigerator and microwave, perfect for creating pre-hike snacks. Provided by Mellow Moon Lodge
MOTELS «FROM 48 “We say we’re a boutique motel,” co-owner Jody Corey says. “We always thank people who gamble on a property that says ‘motel.’ We want to reset the idea of what a motel is.” Local wines are served at check in, and you can grab locally roasted coffee and free breakfast in the lobby each morning. The minimalist rooms have cheerful pops of color. There are a couple dozen wineries to explore in the Palisade area. To get started, DeBeque Canyon Winery is across the street and Colorado Vintner’s Collective is a couple blocks away. Spoke and Vine Motel, from $129, 424 W. 8th St., Palisade, 970-464-2211, spokeandvinemotel.com
LOGE Breckenridge
LOGE finds forgotten motels near outdoorsy towns and trails and gives them a fresh update. LOGE Breckenridge opened in 2020 and is just steps from the Colorado Trail. Guests can access miles of single-track mountain biking, hiking and running trails. Or, you can get on the Blue River Recreation Path and bike into town. The motel has 38 rooms, plus a 20bed hostel, bar and café, outdoor stage and more. The rooms, inspired by a love for the great outdoors, have cool amenities like hammocks. Loge Breckenridge, from $116, 165 Tiger Road, Breckenridge, 970-551-2115, logecamps.com/breckenridge-co Brittany Anas is a Colorado-based freelance writer. The Denver Post | Summer Getaways | 49
A teardrop trailer provides a relatively inexpensive and comfortable base camp for your adventures. It provides more shelter than a tent, and unlike a camper shell, you can leave it behind while you go exploring in your vehicle or head into town for more supplies. Lauren Danilek, Special to The Denver Post
Camp in comfort without breaking your budget By Ryan Wichelns Special to The Denver Post
Going on a road trip this summer doesn’t have to mean either setting a tent next to your car, splurging on a van conversion or — check your savings account — buying a Sprinter. There are a lot of comfortable options in between. Sure, if you’re posting up at a trailhead or in a Walmart parking lot, a Sprinter or similar van’s stealthiness and self-contained comfort is nice, but most of us wouldn’t want one as our daily driver. 50 | Summer Getaways | The Denver Post
They can be awkward to drive around, they’re gas hogs, and they aren’t fun to parallel park in downtown Denver. So consider some less-intrusive alternatives: bed
toppers, rooftop tents and teardrops. Smaller, more nimble, potentially more convenient and way cheaper, you can get the same lifestyle — the freedom of living on the road for a week, or even a month — without committing to a car payment. Some of the best options fall into three categories: truck bed toppers, rooftop tents and teardrop trailers. Interested? Scour the internet and find one that you like the look of. Then check them out in person at outdoors stores, at RV shows and at local makers and retailers.
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CAMPING «FROM 50 Truck bed toppers
If a pickup truck is the unofficial vehicle of Colorado, then the camper top might be the state’s unofficial sleep-onthe-road option. These come in lots of flavors, with the most popular being the simple truck bed cap — typically a fiberglass shell that covers the bed of your truck, protecting it from the elements. Sheltering your bed not only allows you to lock up and keep your adventure gear dry, but it turns your truck into a place to sleep. The internet is awash with custom builds that give you room to spread out your sleeping pad and bag without sacrificing storage space. Plus, when you’re running errands around town, it’s a breeze to pull out your gear and fill the bed with groceries or lumber. This is a great camping option for one or two people. Pros: Camper tops are easy to install, let you keep your truck for other uses, and are a relatively budget-friendly option. If you set them up right, they’re also incredibly stealthy. Cons: When you do have the bed set up for sleeping, you’re sacrificing storage space. A truck bed also isn’t a place you would want to hang out for extended periods in bad weather — they can be cramped.
Rooftop tents
Rooftop tents originated overseas as an alternative to setting up your tent on the ground and within reach of critters like snakes and bugs. Most are easy set-up, ultra-comfortable and mount on your vehicle’s roof rack. Just about any vehicle with a roof rack can handle one, and they come in various sizes and designs, from large enough to accommodate two people to large enough for a whole family, and from opening up like a clamshell to popping up like a camper. Once you know how yours works, you can open it up at camp in seconds. Many come with a pre-installed mattress more comfortable than any sleeping pad, and you can usually store your sleeping bags, blankets and pillows inside the tent, all of which means you can roll up to camp and be in bed in a matter of minutes. Most of these require you to climb a ladder to enter. Pros: Rooftop tents don’t use storage space inside your car, will work on most vehicles, and you can take them on and off as you please, which means they’re a great addition to the vehicle you already have. Cons: If the weather gets really bad, CAMPING » 52
A rooftop tent provides a bit more comfort than most ground tents, sets up in seconds, and keeps you out of reach of most critters. Lauren Danilek, Special to The Denver Post The Denver Post | Summer Getaways | 51
Most teardrop trailers come with a kitchen area that includes storage and a prep surface. Some even have running water. Photos by Lauren Danilek, Special to The Denver Post
CAMPING «FROM 51 you’ll be dry, but you’re not exactly going to have a ton of room to hang out. And if you find an awesome campsite that you want to “claim” you’ll still need to set something up, because if you go exploring in your vehicle, your tent comes with you. And don’t expect to get both a tent and a kayak on the roof of your car.
Teardrop trailers
Teardrops are probably the closest option to a traditional camper. Small, tow-behind trailers, they often are not much more than an enclosed bed with some storage, as well as a small galley for cooking. Some have a foldout table and seating. All of these are relatively simple, offering you some comfortable living space, a place to cook, and a home base you can customize with awnings, solar panels, and more.
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A teardrop trailer adds a bit of comfort to camping and provides a refuge in inclement weather.
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COLORADO SUMMER BUCKET LIST TIPS FROM THE LOCALS EXPERIENCE THE FLAVOR Slopper at Grays
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